RU2205628C1 - Night antistress cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetic agents designated for skin care. Cream comprises oily phase, structure-forming emulsifying agents, film-forming and jellying agents, triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, distilled glycerol or propylene glycol as agents stabilizing humidity, vitamins A, E, C, biologically active supplements, preserving agents, Trilon B. Except for avocado oil, apricot oil, peach oil and shi oil as vegetable oils cream involves lanolin and isopropyl palmitate as lipid components; cetearyl alcohol and cetearete-20, polyethylene glycol (PEG)-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, glycerol monostearate or distilled monoglycerides, distilled (primary synthetic) fraction of C₁₇-C₁₈-alcohols or synthetic high-molecular C₁₆-C₁₈-alcohols (imported) or fraction of synthetic primary C₁₆-C₂₀-alcohols as structure-forming components and magnesium sulfate heptahydrate as a trace element. The use of an antistress complex-1-containing cream enhances skin resistance, softens epidermis and strengths skin elasticity. EFFECT: improved and valuable properties of cream. 2 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetics intended for facial skin care.

 Therapeutic and cosmetic composition [1] - in the form of an emulsion includes ricinoleic acid, glycerin, ascorbic acid, vegetable and essential oils and a polyethylene oxide gel. The composition has antibacterial, fungicidal, antiviral and regenerative effects on the skin and mucous membranes.

 The disadvantage of the drug is the instability of the polyethylene oxide gel during storage (shelf life is 6 months). This is inconvenient for industrial applicability.

 Protective and preventive cream [2] contains vaseline oil, disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ascorbic acid, tea tree oil, whey proteins, distilled water. The cream increases the metabolic and reparative functions of the skin, which increases the effectiveness of the prevention and treatment of occupational dermatoses.

 However, vitamin C is unstable. It loses its properties in contact with water and air. Therefore, to include vitamin C in the composition of Sinergi C moisturizer, GARNIER Laboratory, Paris, they found a way to create a compound of vitamin C with glucose, which, when it enters the skin, reacts with the enzyme glucosidase contained in it. The result of this reaction is the release of pure Vitamin C - a concentrate of freshness, energy, tone and vitality for the skin. The cream contains natural oils: apricot, shea (Karite).

 The type of emulsion oil / water and its composition is the closest to the claimed cream is Sinergi (moisturizing with vitamin C) GARNIER Laboratory, Paris, selected as a prototype.

 The prototype cream contains an oil phase - apricot oil, shea butter, structure-forming emulsifiers - xanthan gum, sorbitan stearate, stearyl alcohol, Sucrose Cocoate, film-forming - cyclohexasiloxane, gelling agent - ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, neutralizing glycerol, tri-aminomethylene, - biologically active additives - vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside), Citrus Dulcis, UV filters - octyl methoxy cinnamate, terephthalilidene dimcamphor sulfonic acid, softener - trilon - B, imidazolid preservatives nile urea, methylparaben, propylparaben, C.I. 14700 and C.I. 47005, perfume composition and water.

 The task of the inventors is to create a nightly anti-stress cream containing vitamins A, E, C, vegetable oils and including anti-stress complex-1, giving a new concept of skin protection: the complex increases the content of stress proteins in intact cells, allowing them to effectively protect themselves from aggressive environmental influences.

 Due to the fact that the cream is intended to nourish and restore the skin for a long night time, in addition to vegetable oils such as avocado, apricot, peach, and shea, fat components are introduced: lanolin and isopropyl palmitate. Such oil / water emulsions with a high oil content are more difficult to stabilize, therefore, the range of incorporated structure-forming emulsifiers is accordingly increased. An additional stabilizer is a trace element - magnesium sulfate 7-water.

 When using a cream containing anti-stress complex-1, skin resistance increases, the epidermis softens and skin elasticity is strengthened.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the claimed night anti-stress cream containing the oil phase is apricot oil or avocado oil, or peach oil, shea butter, structure-forming emulsifiers, film-forming, gelling agents, triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide, moisture stabilizers - glycerin distilled or propylene glycol, vitamin C, dietary supplements, Trilon B, preservatives - methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, CI 17200 and CI 47005, perfume composition and drinking water it differs in that it additionally contains 7-hydrous magnesium sulfate, isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, anhydrous lanolin or anhydrous lanolin, or plant-derived lanolin, as structure-forming emulsifiers, cetearyl alcohol, 20 and ceterate as the oil phase; -20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, glycerol monostearate or monoglycerides distilled, alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ dispersed (synthetic primary) or high molecular weight alcohols synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ (import n), or synthetic alcohols, primary C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty fractions, dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone as film-forming components, carbopol or carbomer, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R as gelling agents, additionally contains caprylic as moisture stabilizers / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isononanoate, as biologically active additives - vitamin C in the stable form of sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamins A, E, anti-stress complex-1, hydrolyzed silk protein or hydrolys ovanny soy protein as preservatives further comprises bronitrol or bronopol or Cato CG, or Germaben II, the following component ratio, wt.%:
Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth-20 - 2.00-8.00
PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate - 0.50-3.00
Glycerol monostearate or distilled monoglycerides - 1.00-4.00
Alcohols of the C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ fraction dispersed (synthetic primary), or high molecular weight alcohols synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ (imported), or synthetic alcohols primary fatty fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ - 0.50-3.00
Lanolin, or anhydrous lanolin, or ethoxylated lanolin, or vegetable lanolin - 0.50-2.00
Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate - 1.00-4.00
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - 0.50-3.00
Dimethicone and / or Cyclomethicone - 1.00-5.00
Cetearyl isononanoate - 0.50-3.00
Apricot oil, or avocado oil, or oil - 1.00-4.00
Shea Butter - 0.50-2.00
Vitamin A - 0.20-2.00
Vitamin E - 0.20-2.00
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate - vitamin C - 0.20-0.70
Anti-stress complex-1 - 0.50-3.00
Silk protein or hydrolyzed soy protein - 0.50-2.00
Distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol - 1.00-5.00
Carbopol or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R - 0.10-1.00
Triethanolamine or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide technical - 0.10-1.00
Trilon B - 0.10-0.50
Magnesium sulfate 7-water - 0.10-1.00
Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Propyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Bronopol or Bronitrol, or CATON CG or Hermaben II - 0.01-0.50
Dye CI 17200, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Dye CI 47005, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Perfumery composition - Not more than 0.80
Drinking water - Up to 100.00
The cream is prepared according to the following technology.

The preparatory boiler for the preparation of the fat phase is loaded with: cetearyl alcohol and cetearet-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, shea butter, isopropyl palmitate, vitamins A, E, caprylic / capric triglyceride, high alcohol glycerol, high alcohol , dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone and heated to a temperature of 75-80 ^o C.

Water and carbopol are charged into the reactor, heated to a temperature of 30-50 ^{° C.} and stirred until the carbopol is completely dissolved. Then glycerin is added and heated to a temperature of 70-75 ^o C.

 When the set temperature is reached, molten fatty raw materials, avocado oil, apricot oil, trilon B, 7-hydrous magnesium sulfate are fed into the reactor from the preparatory boiler, and a mixture of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters is charged.

Emulsification of the cream is carried out at a temperature of 75-80 ^o C for 35-40 minutes At the end of the emulsification, cooling is turned on and triethanolamine is added at a temperature of 60-65 ^{° C.} , then anti-stress complex-1, silk protein, a solution of vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) and bronopol.

At a temperature of 35-40 ^o With add a solution of dyes, then enter the perfume composition.

 The finished cream after 2 hours is analyzed, then pumped into a collection container for storage and served on the packaging.

 The cream is a homogeneous mass from pale orange to light orange in color with an exquisite and sophisticated aroma that combines the freshness of lemon, orange, bergamot with warm floral shades of ylang-ylang, white lily, jasmine and notes of musk, cedar wood and cloves. The difference between the claimed night anti-stress cream from the prototype and the compositions of the night anti-stress cream for several examples are given in table. 1 and 2.

 Description of the main raw materials used in the inventive cream.

 The oil phase is formed by: shea butter, apricot or avocado, or peach, isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, anhydrous lanolin or lanolin, or ethanolated lanolin, or vegetable lanolin.

Structural emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of: glycerol monostearate or distilled monoglycerides, cetearyl alcohol and cetetarete-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, alcohols of fractions C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ dispersed (synthetic primary) or high molecular weight alcohols ₁₈ synthetic C ₁₆ synthetic C (imported), or alcohols of synthetic primary fatty fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀
Methylglucoside - PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate (trademark Glucamate SSE-20 ^® ) is obtained from corn grain.

From natural methyl glucosides, the American company Amerchol ^{® has} developed and produces a whole series of glucoside derivatives - soft, natural, economical and effective.

Glucamate SSE-20 ^® is a nonionic emulsifier. It ensures the safety of the use of cosmetic products and significantly exceeds other emulsifiers in terms of performance.

 Conducted tests - cutaneous applications showed a lack of excitability and sensitization when using Glucamate SSE-20. It is used in cosmetics for daily use, economical and versatile, as it provides effective emulsification and stability of emulsions at low concentrations.

Пленкообразующими компонентами являются диметикон и циклометикон (силком), представляющие собой композицию на основе диметил-силоксанов (диметикон) и цикло-метилсилоксанов (циклометикон). Выпускают марки А, Б, В, Г, Д с содержанием диметикона, %: 10, 30, 50, 70, 90 соответственно, остальное - циклометикон.

The film-forming components are dimethicone and cyclomethicone (silk), which are a composition based on dimethyl-siloxanes (dimethicone) and cyclo-methylsiloxanes (cyclomethicone). Grades A, B, C, G, D are produced with dimethicone content,%: 10, 30, 50, 70, 90, respectively, the rest is cyclomethicone.

 Humidity stabilizers are selected from the group consisting of glycerol or propylene glycol, cetearyl isononanoate and caprylic / capric triglyceride.

 The authors used a balanced combination of cetearyl isononanoate with an average degree of distribution on the skin and caprylic / capric triglyceride with a high degree of distribution in an anti-stress night cream. Thanks to a precisely calibrated combination of these emollients, skin moisture is maintained for a long time, which guarantees the effect of night cream.

 Dietary supplements are selected from the group consisting of vitamins A, E and vitamin C in the stable form of sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, anti-stress complex-1, hydrolyzed silk protein or hydrolyzed soy protein.

 Anti-stress complex-1 - Biofactor HSP (Biofactor HSP) (Seporga, France) is a water-glycerin extract of yeast.

 The main components of the anti-stress complex are Heat Shock Proteins (stress proteins), the so-called molecular accompanying, which help to recover proteins that have undergone changes due to thermal or oxidative effects and could not reach the correct spatial shape. Expressed in one of two, forming or inducing forms, stress proteins (HSP) protect newly synthesized molecules due to their movements within the cell, as well as into intercellular spaces.

 In human keratin synthesis, the effect of HSP decreases with age. HSPs are classified according to molecular weights. In the HSP family, the most protective in controlling stress is HSP70, the main component of the HSP biofactor.

 Under normal conditions of cellular synthesis, HSP70 functions as a conductor of ATP-dependent molecules, helps to consolidate new polypeptides, collects multiprotein complexes and moves proteins through cell membranes.

 Under stress, the synthesis of HSP70 increases the viability of cells under stress, helps to counteract the dissociation and change of proteins, it is also able to save and preserve cells even at the extreme stage of damage. HSP70 also plays a role in the manifestation of antigens, which affects the mechanism of tolerance and the resistance of cells to heat.

HSF (Heat Shock Factors)
Such proteins make HSP possible. HSF binds the active region, which itself controls the activity of HSP genes in the specificity of DNA chains called HSE (Heat Shock Elements), making them a prerequisite for the activity of various HSP families.

 HSP1 proteins are also present in the HSP biofactor; they are present in all human cells. The association of HSF1 with DNA is inevitable in cell aggression. In most cases, HSF1 is present in stress and non-stress cells.

 The skin is exposed to solar radiation, which leads to light aging (photoaging). Solar energy, reaching the earth, is distributed on the infrared spectrum (50%), visible (40%), and ultraviolet (10%), which distinguishes between UVA (320-400 nm) and UVB (290-320 nm) rays. UVC rays do not reach the ground. The stratum corneum traps most UVB rays, and 10% cross the epidermis. Most UVA (and visible) rays cross the epidermis, from 20 to 30% reach the dermis, where they can accelerate the photoaging process. The skin protects itself from UV rays by means of a two-phase tan: phase 1 - fulminant tanning caused by UVA, and phase 2 - the long-term tan that UVB causes.

 Photoaging is caused by repeated sunburn. In the epidermis, sunburns increase the number of tissue damage leading to the formation of -sun bum cells (burnt cells). The cytoplasm of such cells contains vacuoles with concave nuclei. These cells are affected cells, probably destroyed by autolysis under the action of UV on lysosomal membranes. In the dermis, sunburn increases vasodilation and the formation of edema. In the chronic manifestation of photoaging, the epidermis becomes dry, flabby and hyperpigmentation occurs. Connective tissue is also damaged: the collagen structure and elastin are destroyed. These damage occurs due to changes in DNA fibroblast and from the destruction of certain enzymes caused by changes in collagen. This is one example where it becomes necessary to use Biofactor HSP in the fight against the manifestations of aging, in particular photoaging.

Biofactor HSP acts positively in the fight against photoaging in two phases:
- instant anti-stress effect by supplying HSP cells;
- long-term action by supplying HSFs that stimulate the synthesis of new HSPs.

 Biofactor HSP gives a new concept of protection: it increases the content of HSP in intact cells, giving them the ability to effectively protect themselves from aggressive environmental influences.

Based on materials from Seporga
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, a trademark of Crosilk Protein Complex, is an aqueous solution of hydrolyzed silk protein that shows a wide range of compounds with different molecular weights from free amino acids to long chains of polypeptides. Due to the combination of the moisturizing properties of silk amino acids with the ability of hydrolyzed silk protein to create a thin breathable film on the surface of the skin and hair, the complex is of exceptional interest to the cosmetics market.

Vitamin E (tocopherol acetate solution - 1%)
Vitamin E is a natural antioxidant. It protects various substances from oxidative changes. Participates in the biosynthesis of heme and proteins, cell proliferation, tissue respiration and other major processes of cellular metabolism.

Vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate)
Vitamin C is an excellent active substance for skin care. It protects the skin, activates the formation of new cells and improves its appearance.

 But it is vitamin C that has one significant drawback. In current cosmetic formulations, it is unstable. It decomposes, changes the color of the emulsion.

 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, manufactured by BASF AG, Germany, is a vitamin C derivative that does not have this deficiency. It is stable in finished cosmetic forms.

Ascorbyl phosphate breaks down in the skin into enzymes. Vitamin C is released and has an effective effect:
- as an antioxidant, it protects cells from the harmful effects of free radicals;
- due to the ability to activate collagen formation in the dermis, it slows down the aging process;
- acting on the formation of melanin, it reduces hyperpigmentation, age spots, brightens the skin.

 Preservatives are selected from the group consisting of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, CATON CG, Hermaben II, bronitrol or bronopol.

 The inventive anti-stress night cream has undergone toxicological and clinical trials at the accredited testing laboratory center of the Institute of Beauty.

 Toxicological studies have shown that the cream does not have a general toxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effect.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 20 patients for 30 days. Tests have shown that night anti-stress cream is harmless, non-irritating and allergenic and is intended for skin care.

 Anti-stress night cream relaxes the skin, reduces tension and fatigue.

Literature
1. Pat. RF 2166309, cl. 7 A 61 K 7/00, 7/48, 31/23, published May 10, 2001, Bull. thirteen.

 2. Pat. RF 2164403, class 7 A 61 K 7/00, 7/48, 7/40, published March 27, 2001, Bull. 9.

Claims (1)

Anti-stress night cream containing the oil phase, apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil, shea butter, structure-forming emulsifiers, film-forming, gelling agents, triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or sodium hydroxide, moisture stabilizers - distilled glycerin or propylene glycol, vitamin C, biologically active additives, Trilon B, preservatives - methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, C. I. 17200 and C. I. 47005, perfume composition and drinking water, characterized in that it additionally contains magnesium sulfate 7-water, as the oil phase - isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, lanolin, or anhydrous lanolin, or oxyethylated lanolin, or lanolin of plant origin, as structure-forming emulsifiers - cetearyl alcohol or cetetaret-20, PEG-20 glucose, or distilled monoglycerides, alcohols fraction C ₁₈ -C ₁₇ overclocked (primary synthetic), alcohols, or high molecular weight synthetic C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ primary or synthetic fatty alcohols fractions and C ₁₆ -C _20, as film-forming components - dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone, as gelling agent - Carbopol, or carbomers, or Zacapa or Zacapa-R as humidity stabilizer further comprises caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetearyl isononanoate, as biologically active additives, vitamin C in the stable form of sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, anti-stress complex-1, vitamins A, E, hydrolyzed silk protein or hydrolyzed soy protein, as preservatives itelno bronitrol or contains bronopol, or CG Cato, or Germaben II, the following component ratio, wt.%:
Cetearyl alcohol or Ceteareth-20 - 2.00 - 8.00
PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate - 0.50 - 3.00
Glycerol monostearate or distilled monoglycerides - 1.00 - 4.00
Alcohols of the fraction C ₁₇ -C ₁₈ dispersed (synthetic primary), or high molecular weight alcohols synthetic C ₁₆ - ₁₈ (imported), or alcohols synthetic primary fat fractions C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ - 0.50 - 3.00
Lanolin, or anhydrous lanolin, or ethoxylated lanolin, or vegetable lanolin - 0.50 - 2.00
Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate - 1.00 - 4.00
Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - 0.50 - 3.00
Dimethicone and / or Cyclomethicone - 1.00 - 5.00
Cetearyl isononanoate - 0.50 - 300
Apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil - 1.00 - 4.00
Shea Butter - 0.50 - 2.00
Vitamin A - 0.20 - 2.00
Vitamin E - 0.20 - 2.00
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate - vitamin C - 0.20 - 0.70
Anti-stress complex-1 - 0.50 - 3.00
Silk protein or hydrolyzed soy protein - 0.50 - 2.00
Distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol - 1.00 - 5.00
Carbopol, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R - 0.10 - 1.00
Triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or technical caustic soda - 0.10 - 1.00
Trilon B - 0.10 - 0.50
Magnesium sulfate 7-water - 0.10 - 1.00
Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10 - 1.00
Propyl para-cybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10 - 1.00
Bronopol, or Bronitrol, or CATON CG or Hermaben II - 0.01 - 0.50
CI17299, g / t - No more than 2.00
CI47005, g / t - Not more than 2.00
Perfumery composition - Not more than 0.80
Drinking water - Up to 100.00

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