RU2003117010A

RU2003117010A - COMPOSITION FOR OXIDATIVE COLORING OF KERATIN FIBERS, INCLUDING A CATION ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE

Info

Publication number: RU2003117010A
Application number: RU2003117010/15A
Authority: RU
Inventors: Франсуа КОТТАР; ЛЯ МЕТТРИ Ролан ДЕ
Original assignee: Л`Ореаль
Priority date: 2000-11-08
Filing date: 2001-11-06
Publication date: 2004-12-10

Claims

1. Composition for oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, and in particular hair, comprising, in an environment suitable for dyeing, at least one dye which is fixed during oxidation, characterized in that it also includes at least at least one cationic associative polyurethane.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethane meets the following formula (Ia):

in which R and R ’, identical or different, mean a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X ’, the same or different, mean a group that includes an amino group, whether or not a hydrophobic group or an L group;

L, L ’and L”, identical or different, mean a group derived from diisocyanate;

P and P ’, the same or different, mean a group that includes an amino group, whether or not a hydrophobic group;

Y is a hydrophilic group;

r is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, and in particular from 1 to 25;

n, m and p, each, independently of the others, mean from 0 to 1000;

moreover, the molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amino group and at least one hydrophobic group.

3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that R and R ’, both independently mean a hydrophobic group; X, X ’, each, means a group L”; n and p are from 1 to 1000; and L, L ’, L”, P, P ’, Y and m have the meanings specified in clause 2.

4. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that R and R ’, both independently mean a hydrophobic group; X, X ’, both independently mean a group comprising a quaternary amino group; n and p are zero; and L, L ’, Y and m have the meanings specified in clause 2.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that R and R 'mean a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from among atoms sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen and phosphorus, or with a silicone or perfluorinated chain.

6. The composition according to any one of paragraphs.2-5, characterized in that X and X ’correspond to one of the formulas:

or

for X

or

for X '

in which R ₂ means a linear or branched, whether or not saturated or unsaturated cycle, alkylene radical with 1-20 carbon atoms or an arylene radical, and one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen, phosphorus ;

R ₁ and R ₃ , the same or different, mean a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical with 1-30 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, and at least one of the carbon atoms can be replaced by a hetero atom selected from nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen, phosphorus;

A ^- means a physiologically acceptable counterion.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the groups L, L ’and L”, the same or different, correspond to the formula

in which Z is —O—, —S— or —NH—; and

R ₄ means a linear or branched, whether or not saturated or unsaturated ring, alkylene radical with 1-20 carbon atoms, an arylene radical, and one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected from nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen, phosphorus.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the groups P and P ’, identical or different, correspond to at least one of the following formulas:

in which R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meanings as R ₂ ;

R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meanings as R ₁ and R ₃ ;

R ₁₀ means a linear or branched, possibly unsaturated alkylene group, which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms; and

A ^- means a physiologically acceptable counterion.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that Y is a group derived from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or propylene glycol, or a group derived from a polymer selected from polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes have a number average molecular weight of 400-500000, preferably 1000-400000 and, in particular, 1000-300000.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes are used in an amount of from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, Relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the dye that is fixed during oxidation is selected from oxidizable bases and / or paint-forming components.

14. The composition according to p. 13, characterized in that it includes at least one oxidizable base.

15. The composition according to p. 13 or 14, characterized in that the oxidizable bases are chosen among o- or p-phenylenediamines, double bases, o- or p-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, as well as the addition salts of these compounds with an acid.

16. The composition according to p. 15, characterized in that p-phenylenediamines are selected among compounds of the following structure (I):

in which R ₁ means a hydrogen atom, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, monohydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, polyhydroxy- (C ₂ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) - alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, phenyl or 4'-aminophenyl;

R ₂ means a hydrogen atom, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, monohydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or polyhydroxy- (C ₂ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group;

R ₁ and R _2, together with the nitrogen atom of which they are substituents, can also form a 5- or 6-membered nitrogen-containing heterocycle, possibly substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxyl or ureido groups;

R ₃ means a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, sulfo group, carboxyl, monohydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or hydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxyl, acetylamino- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxyl, mesylamino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxyl or carbamoylamino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxyl;

R ₄ means a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl.

17. The composition according to p. 15, characterized in that the double base is selected among compounds of the following structure (II):

in which Z ₁ and Z ₂ , the same or different, are hydroxyl or a —NH ₂ group, which may be substituted with a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl or Y binding moiety;

linking fragment Y means a linear or branched alkylene chain with 1-14 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms, and may be substituted by one or several hydroxyl or (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkoxy radicals;

R ₅ and R ₆ mean a hydrogen or halogen atom, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, monohydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, polyhydroxy- (C ₂ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, amino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or a binding fragment of Y;

R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₉ , R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ and R ₁₂ , the same or different, mean a hydrogen atom, a binding fragment of Y or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl;

provided that the compounds of formula (II) contain only one binding fragment Y per molecule.

18. The composition according to p. 15, characterized in that p-aminophenols are selected among compounds of the following structure (III):

in which R ₁₃ means a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as fluorine, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, monohydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or amino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or hydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl;

R ₁₄ means a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom such as fluoro, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, monohydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, polyhydroxy- (C ₂ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, amino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl, cyano- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl.

19. The composition according to p. 15, characterized in that the heterocyclic bases are selected among pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, including pyrazole pyrimidines, pyrazole derivatives.

20. The composition according to any one of paragraphs.13-19, characterized in that the oxidized bases are present in concentrations of 0.0005-12 wt.%, In relation to the total weight of the composition.

21. The composition according to p. 13, characterized in that the paint-forming components are selected among m-phenylenediamines, m-aminophenols, m-diphenols, heterocyclic paint-forming components and additive salts of these compounds with an acid.

22. The composition according to any one of p. 13 or 21, characterized in that the ink-forming components are present in concentrations of 0.0001-10 wt.%, Relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition according to any one of paragraphs.13-22, characterized in that the additive salt with an acid that is fixed during oxidation of the dyes is selected among hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, tartrates, lactates and acetates.

24. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that it further comprises direct dyes.

25. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it further comprises at least one amphoteric substantive polymer or cationic substantive polymer, different from the cationic associative polyurethane or cationic associative polyurethanes described in accordance with any one of claims 2-12 .

26. The composition according A.25, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a Quaternary polyammonium polymer formed by repeating units corresponding to the following formula (W):

27. The composition according A.25, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a Quaternary polyammonium polymer formed by repeating units corresponding to the following formula (U):

28. The composition according A.25, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer is a copolymer comprising, at least as monomers, acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

29. The composition according to any one of paragraphs.25-28, characterized in that the cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer or cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers comprise 0.01-10 wt.%, Preferably 0.05-5 wt.% And even more preferably 0.1-3 wt.%, In relation to the total weight of the composition.

30. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that it includes at least one surfactant selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants.

31. The composition according to p. 30, characterized in that the surfactants comprise 0.01-40 wt.% And preferably 0.1-30 wt.%, In relation to the total weight of the composition.

32. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 31, characterized in that it includes at least one additional thickener.

33. The composition according to p, characterized in that the additional thickener is a cellulose derivative, a guar derivative, a resin of microbiological origin, a synthetic thickener.

34. The composition according to p. 32 or 33, characterized in that the additional thickener or additional thickeners comprise 0.01-10 wt.%, In relation to the total weight of the composition.

35. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 34, characterized in that it further comprises at least one reducing agent in amounts of 0.05-3 wt.%, Relative to the total weight of the composition.

36. Ready-to-use composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35, characterized in that it further comprises an oxidizing component.

37. The composition according to clause 36, wherein the oxidizing component is selected among hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or hexacyanoferriates of alkali metals, persols, redox enzymes, if necessary, with their donor or appropriate cofactor.

38. The composition according to clause 37, wherein the oxidizing component is hydrogen peroxide.

39. The composition according to § 38, wherein the oxidizing component is a hydrogen peroxide solution, the titer of which is from 1 to 40 volumes.

40. The composition according to p, characterized in that it has a pH value of from 4 to 11.

41. A method of dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, and in particular hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the fibers at least one composition A, comprising, in a suitable medium for dyeing, at least one fixed at oxidation is a dye, and the color is shown at an alkaline, neutral or acidic pH value using composition B, comprising at least one oxidizing component, which is immediately mixed with composition A or applied at les without intermediate rinsing, wherein at least one cationic associative polyurethane as defined in any of claims 1-12, stored in the composition A or in composition B or in each of the compositions A and B.

42. The method according to paragraph 41, characterized in that it consists in applying to dry or wet keratin fibers a ready-to-use composition prepared before use from the above compositions A and B, keeping it for exposure for a time of from about 1 to 60 minutes, and preferably 10 to 45 minutes, in rinsing the fibers, then, if necessary, washing them with shampoo, then rinsing them again and drying them.

43. A method of dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, and in particular hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to a dry or wet keratin fiber a ready-to-use composition prepared before use from composition A ', including at least at least one dye that is fixed during oxidation, but without the cationic associative polyurethane defined in any of claims 1-12, another composition A ”comprising at least one cationic associative polyurethane defined in claims .1-12, and the oxidizing composition B, in holding it for exposure for a period of about 1 to 60 minutes, and preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, in rinsing the fibers, then, if necessary, washing them with shampoo, then rinsing them again and drying them.

44. The method according to any of paragraphs.41-42, characterized in that composition A and / or composition B further comprise at least one cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer and at least one surfactant.

45. The method according to item 43, wherein the composition A ’and / or composition B additionally contain at least one cationic or amphoteric polymer and at least one surfactant.

46. A device with two compartments or a “kit” for dyeing human keratin fibers, and in particular hair, characterized in that one compartment contains composition A1, comprising, in an environment suitable for dyeing, at least one dye that is fixed during oxidation and the other compartment contains composition B1 comprising, in a suitable medium for coloring, an oxidizing component, wherein at least one cationic associative polyurethane, as defined in any one of claims 1-12, is in composition A1 or composition B1 or in each of compositions A1 and B1.

47. A device with three compartments or a “kit” for dyeing human keratin fibers, and in particular hair, characterized in that the first compartment contains composition A2, comprising, in an environment suitable for dyeing, at least one which is fixed during oxidation dye; the second compartment contains composition B2, comprising, in a suitable medium for coloring, at least one oxidizing component; and the third compartment contains a composition C comprising, in a suitable coloring medium, at least one cationic associative polyurethane, such as defined in any one of claims 1-12, wherein composition A2 and / or composition B2 may also include cationic associative polyurethane defined in claims 1-12.