RU2002129801A

RU2002129801A - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING AMINED SILICONE AND COMPONENT WITH CONDITIONAL ACTION, AND THEIR APPLICATIONS

Info

Publication number: RU2002129801A
Application number: RU2002129801/15A
Authority: RU
Inventors: Джонатан ГОТРИ; Серж РЕСТЛЬ; Сандрин Декостер; Паскаль ЛАЗЗЕРИ
Original assignee: Л'Ореаль
Priority date: 2001-11-08
Filing date: 2002-11-06
Publication date: 2004-05-10

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it includes in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one component with conditioning effect and at least one aminated silicone selected from silicones of the following formulas (I) or (II):

in which m and n mean such numbers that the sum (n + m) can be, in particular, from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250, and more preferably from 100 to 200, wherein n can mean a number from 0 to 999 in particular from 49 to 249 and more preferably from 125 to 175, and m may mean a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more preferably from 1 to 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, are hydroxyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkoxyl, wherein at least one of the radicals R ₁ -R ₃ is alkoxyl;

in which p and q mean such numbers that the sum (p + q) can be, in particular, from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more preferably from 150 to 250, and p can mean a number from 0 to 999 in particular from 49 to 349 and more preferably from 159 to 239, and q may mean a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more preferably from 1 to 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ are different and are hydroxyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkoxyl, with at least one of the radicals R ₁ or R _{2 being} alkoxyl.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkoxyl is a methoxy group.

3. The composition according to any one of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that in the aminated silicones of formula (I), the molar ratio of hydroxyl / alkoxyl is from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and more preferably 0.3: 1.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone of formula (I) is 2000-1000000 and preferably 3500-200000.

5. The composition according to any one of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that in the aminated silicones of formula (II) the molar ratio of hydroxyl / alkoxyl is from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1, preferably from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1 and more preferably 1: 0.95.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1, 2 or 5, characterized in that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone of formula (II) is 2000-200000, preferably 5000-100000, and more preferably 10000-50000.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the aminated silicone is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

8. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion comprises one or more cationic and / or nonionic surfactants.

9. The composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the number-average particle size of the silicone in the emulsion is 3-500 nm.

10. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the average particle size of the silicone in the emulsion is 5-60 nm and more preferably 10-50 nm.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the aminated silicone or aminated silicones of the formula (I) or (II) are selected in such a way that the contact angle with the water of the hair treated with a composition containing 2% of the above silicone as AB (active substance), is 90-180 ° (inclusive).

12. The composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the aminated silicone or aminated silicones of the formula (I) or (II) are selected in such a way that the contact angle with the water of the hair treated with a composition containing 2% of the above silicone as AB ( active substance), is 90-130 ° (inclusive).

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the composition comprising at least one aminated silicone of the formula (I) or (II) is selected so that the contact angle of the hair treated with the above composition with water is 90-180 ° (inclusive), preferably 90-130 ° (inclusive).

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the aminated silicone or aminated silicones of the formula (I) or (II) are in a concentration of 0.01-20 wt.% With respect to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to 14, characterized in that the aminated silicone or aminated silicones of the formula (I) or (II) are in a concentration of 0.1-15 wt.% With respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5-10 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the conditioning components are selected from synthetic oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, ceramic-type compounds, carboxylic acid esters, silicones different from the silicones of the formulas (I) or (II), anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates and cationic surfactants in as well as mixtures of these various compounds.

17. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the synthetic oil or synthetic oils are polyolefins of the type hydrogenated or not polybutylene or type hydrogenated or not polydecene.

18. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the vegetable oil or vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, nut oils, fish oils, glycerin tricaprocaprilate, or vegetable or animal oils of the formula R ₉ COOR ₁₀ , in which R ₉ means a higher fatty acid residue with 7-29 carbon atoms and R ₁₀ means a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 3-30 carbon atoms, in person alkyl or alkenyl, natural or synthetic essential oils, such as, for example, eucalyptus oil, lavender oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, chamomile oil, savory oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, juniper oil and bergamot oil.

19. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the wax or waxes are selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alpha wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated wax fraction of jojoba oil, or absolute floral waxes, such as blackcurrant flower waxes, animal waxes such as beeswax, marine waxes, polyethylene or polyolefin waxes.

20. The composition according to p. 16, characterized in that the compounds of the ceramide type are selected among 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecan-1,3 -diol, 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecan-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane- 1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphosphosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3 -acetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amidacetyl acid, N-doco zanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine or mixtures of these compounds.

21. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the carboxylic acid esters are selected from ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate and isononyl isononate, cetyl octanoate.

22. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the silicones other than the silicones of formulas (I) or (II) are non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone resins and gums, organopolysiloxanes modified with functional organic groups , as well as mixtures thereof.

23. The composition according to p. 22, characterized in that

(a) polyalkylsiloxanes are selected from polymethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups, poly- (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) -alkylsiloxanes;

(b) polyalkylarylsiloxanes are selected from linear and / or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, with a viscosity of 1 · 10 ^-5 -5 · 10 · ^{-2 -2} m ² / s at a temperature of 25 ° C;

(c) silicone resins are selected among polydiorganosiloxanes with number average molecular weights of 200,000-1000000, used individually or as a mixture in a solvent;

(d) resins are selected from resins formed by the structural units R ₃ SiO _1/2 , R ₂ SiO _2/2 , RSiO _3/2 and SiO _4/2 , in which R means a hydrocarbon group with 1-16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group ;

(e) organically modified silicones are selected from silicones comprising in their structure one or more organic functional groups fixed through a hydrocarbon radical.

24. The composition according to p. 23, wherein the silicone resins used individually or as a mixture are selected from the following structures: polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylmethylsilane : mixtures consisting of polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of a chain and cyclic polydimethylsiloxane; mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane resin and cyclic silicone; and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes with various viscosities.

25. The composition according to item 23, wherein the organically modified silicones are selected among polyorganosiloxanes, including: a) polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups; b) substituted or not substituted amino groups; c) thiol groups; d) alkoxy groups; e) hydroxyalkyl groups; f) acyloxyalkyl groups; g) alkyl carboxyl groups; h) 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate groups; i) 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfonate groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups.

26. The composition according to any one of paragraphs.23-25, characterized in that the silicones are selected among polymethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, polyalkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mixtures of two polydimethylsiloxanes formed by a resin and oil with different viscosities, mixtures of organosilicosiloxanes polyorganosiloxane resins.

27. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the anionic polymer is chosen among:

polymers comprising carboxy units derived from unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acids as monomers of the formula

in which n is an integer 0-10;

A ₁ means a methylene group, optionally bonded to a carbon atom of an unsaturated group or to a neighboring methylene group when n is higher than 1, via a heteroatom such as an oxygen or sulfur atom;

R ₁ means a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group;

R ₂ means a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a carboxyl;

R ₃ means a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a —CH ₂ —COOH group, phenyl or benzyl;

polymers comprising sulfonic acid-derived units such as vinyl sulfonic, styrene sulfonic, acrylamide alkyl sulfonic units.

28. The composition according to item 27, wherein the anionic polymer is selected among copolymers of acrylic acid, such as terpolymer of acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butyl acrylamide; copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as terpolymers of vinyl acetate, vinyl tert-butylbenzoate and crotonic acid and terpolymers of crotonic acid, vinyl acetate and vinyl neodeodecanoate; polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or maleic, fumaric, itaconic anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenyl vinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as copolymers of methyl vinyl ether malide and mono ether; copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate; a copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate; copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid; terpolymer of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and polyethylene glycol.

29. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the amphoteric polymer is selected among polymers comprising units occurring:

a) from at least one monomer selected from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted at the nitrogen atom with alkyl;

b) from at least one comonomer with an acidic nature containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and

c) from at least one basic comonomer, such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amino groups as substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of the quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

30. The composition according to clause 16, wherein the non-ionic polymer is selected among polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene; copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic acid ester; copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride; homopolymers of alkyl acrylates and homopolymers of alkyl methacrylates; copolymers of acrylic acid esters, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; and copolymers of alkyl acrylate and urethane.

31. The composition according to p. 16, characterized in that the cationic polymers are selected among polymers containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amino groups, which can either be included in the main polymer chain or can be located at the side substituent directly connected with her.

32. The composition according to p, characterized in that the above cationic polymer is selected among cationic cyclopolymers, cationic polysaccharides, quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidones and quaternized polyvinylimidazoles and mixtures thereof.

33. The composition according to p, characterized in that the above cyclopolymer is selected from homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide.

34. The composition according to p, characterized in that the above cationic polysaccharides are selected among hydroxyethyl celluloses reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

35. The composition according to p, characterized in that the above cationic polysaccharides are selected from guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.

36. The composition according to p. 16, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are selected among:

A) Quaternary ammonium salts of the following General formula (XXIII):

in which X- means an anion selected from the group consisting of halide anions (chloride, bromide or iodidanion) or (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfates, especially methyl sulfate, phosphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate; and

i) R ₁ -R ₃ radicals, which may be the same or different, mean a linear or branched aliphatic radical with 1-4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; aliphatic radicals may include heteroatoms, such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogen atoms; aliphatic radicals are selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxyl, alkylamide radicals;

R ₄ means a linear or branched alkyl with 16-30 carbon atoms;

ii) the radicals R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be the same or different, mean a linear or branched aliphatic radical with 1-4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; aliphatic radicals may include heteroatoms, such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogen atoms; aliphatic radicals are selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxyl, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl radicals with about 1-4 carbon atoms;

R ₃ and R ₄ , the same or different, mean a linear or branched alkyl radical with 12-30 carbon atoms, and the above radical includes at least one ester or amide group; R ₃ and R ₄ are selected, in particular, from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) -alkylamido- (C ₂ -C ₆ ) -alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) -alkyl acetate;

the cationic surfactant is preferably stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salt (e.g. chloride);

C) Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for example, a salt of the following formula (XXIV):

in which R ₅ means alkenyl or alkyl with 8-30 carbon atoms, for example, derived from fatty acids, fat;

R ₆ means a hydrogen atom, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl or alkenyl or alkyl with 8-30 carbon atoms;

R ₇ means (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl; R ₈ means a hydrogen atom, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl;

X- means an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates; preferably, R ₅ and R ₆ mean a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals with 12-21 carbon atoms, for example, derived from fatty acids, fat;

R ₇ means methyl;

R ₈ means a hydrogen atom;

such a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA, 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA, 1997) sold by WITCO under the names ″ REWOQUAT® ″ W 75, W 90, W75PG, W75HPG;

C) Quaternary diammonium salts of the formula (XXV)

in which R ₉ means an aliphatic radical with about 16-30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , the same or different, are selected from a hydrogen or alkyl atom with 1-4 carbon atoms;

X- means an anion selected from the group consisting of halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate and methyl sulfate anions; such quaternary diammonium salts include, in particular, propanediammonium dichloride;

D) Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester group of the following formula (XXVI)

in which R _{15 is} chosen among (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl radicals and hydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl or dihydroxy- (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl radicals;

R ₁₆ selected from a radical

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₀ with 1-22 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom;

R ₁₈ selected from a radical

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₂ with 1-6 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom;

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , the same or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals with 7-21 carbon atoms;

n, p and r, identical or different, mean integers from 2 to 6;

y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, identical or different, mean integers from 0 to 10;

X- means a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum (x + y + z) is 1-15; when x is 0, then R ₁₆ means R ₂₀ ; and when z is 0, then R ₁₈ means R ₂₂ .

37. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 36, characterized in that the conditioning component is in a concentration of 0.001-20 wt.%, Preferably 0.01-10 wt.%, Relative to the total weight of the composition.

38. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 37, characterized in that it comprises at least one cationic polymer and / or at least one silicone.

39. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 38, characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

40. The composition according to § 39, wherein the surfactant or surfactants are present in a concentration of 0.1-60 wt.%, Preferably 3-40 wt.% And even more preferably 5-30 wt.% in relation to the total weight of the composition.

41. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 40, characterized in that the composition may contain at least one additive selected among thickeners, anti-dandruff components or anti-seborrheic additives, fragrances, pearlescent additives, hydroxyacids, electrolytes, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone solar filters, vitamins, provitamins, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid, panthenol, as well as mixtures of these various compounds.

42. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 41, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, rinse, permanent curling, straightening, dyeing or bleaching the hair, rinse off composition for application between two stages of permanent curling or straightening hair, washing body composition.

43. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 42 for washing or caring for keratin materials.

44. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 42 for conditioning keratin materials.

45. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 42 for improving the lightness, softness, shine and / or combing of hair, to facilitate the care of keratin materials.

46. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 42 for improving the preservation of conditioning actions in relation to shampoos.

47. The use of aminated silicone, such as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14, in a cosmetic composition comprising a component with a conditioning effect, or for its preparation.

48. A method of processing keratin materials such as hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the above materials a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 42, then in the implementation, if necessary, rinsing with water.

49. The use of at least one aminated silicone, such as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15, to improve the preservation of the conditioning effects of the cosmetic composition in relation to shampooing.

50. A method for improving the preservation of the conditioning effects of a cosmetic composition in relation to shampoo washing, comprising introducing an aminated silicone, such as defined in any one of claims 1-15, into a cosmetic composition.