PT100452A - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF A GEL CONTAINING GLYCERIN - Google Patents

Description

64,674 Cases CM 3 71

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF A GEL CONTAINING GLYCERIN 5 10 15

MoA 71-20,000 < *. 20 25 30

Technical Field The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to cosmetic gel-like cosmetic compositions which provide improved skin feel and benefits in the treatment of the skin, reduced tack and residue characteristics, together with excellent visual clarity, humidification, pores and absorption. Background of the Invention The skin consists of several layers of cells that coat and protect the fibrous collagen and keratin proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the outermost of these layers, designated as the stratum corneum, is composed of bundles of 0 to 250 A proteins surrounded by layers with 80 A of thickness. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane by destroying its integrity by delipidation (i.e., removal of the stratum corneum lipids). This destruction of the topography of the skin surface causes a roughness and may eventually allow the surfactant or the solvent to interact with the keratin, causing irritation. Presently, it is recognized that maintaining the appropriate water gradient through the stratum corneum is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes regarded as plasticizer of the stratum corneum, comes from the interior of poêpo. If the humidity is very low, as in a cold climate, there is not enough water in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to adequately plasticize the tissue; and the skin starts to flake out becoming itchy. When -2- 35 i 1 5 10 15

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 64,674Case; Cl 3 71 there is an inadequate amount of water through the stra-tum corneum the permeability of the skin also decreases. On the other hand, the excess water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to absorb / absorb three to five times its weight in bound water. This swells and nails the skin resulting in increased permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules of about two to three times. The hair is formed by many of the constituents of the stratum corneum. The outermost cell region forms a highly aqueous, chemically resistant, protective coating that surrounds the hair fiber, called the cuticle. The surface of the cuticle is covered by a thin layer, called the epiculecule, which is thought to contain lipids and proteins. * The cuticle surrounds the cortex cells that make up most of the fibrous mass. Keratinization occurs in the cortex to confer stability to the hair structure. Thus, there is a need for compositions that assist the stratum corneum and hair cuticle to maintain optimum performance of their barrier and water retention functions despite the fact that the skin and hair may undergo harmful interactions during washing, work and play . Conventional cosmetic compositions in cream and lotion such as those described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. I, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd Edition, Vol. 7, are known to provide varying degrees of emolliency, barrier and water retention (humidification) benefits. However, they may also be seriously challenged in terms of the sensation they cause on the skin (that is, they often cause a very oily touch on the skin), as well as having poor pore penetration, absorption and retention characteristics 30 1 t 1 t 5 10 15

MoA-71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 64,674

Case: GM 3 71 Sodium. The case of hair treatment compositions may also be challenged by the reappearance of the soiling.

Accordingly, the present invention provides cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin and the head, provide improved characteristics of absorption, residue, tackiness, skin feel and skin treatment without detriment to the efficacy of the humidification in the short or long term.

Summary of the Invention

According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a skin or hair treatment composition in the form of an aqueous gel comprising: (a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of glycerin , (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 202G, Brookfield RVT) less than which is 4 Pa.s (4000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a panthenol humidifier.

Compositions according to this aspect of the present invention contain four essential ingredients as well as various optional components as indicated below. All levels and ratios are given in terms of the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. The first essential ingredient is glycerin (sometimes also referred to as glycerol). Chemically, glycerin is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a product available comereally. A great source of material lies in the manufacture of soaps. 30 1 5 10 15

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. The glycerol is present at a level of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight of the composition. A second essential ingredient is a poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricant. This should generally have a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 202C, Brookfield R ¥ T) of less than 4 Pa.s (4000 cps), preferably less than about 1 Pa.s (1000 cps) and more preferably less than about 0.5 Pa.s (500 cps). In addition, the poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricant also preferably has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of about 0.2 (200) to about 5 Pa (5000 cps) (Brookfield, RVI, 202C) , more preferably from about 0.5 (500) to about 2 Pa.s (2000 cps) and especially from about 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa (900 cps). Poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricants which may be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark of Lubragel (Trade Mark) in Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, I.Y. In general, the Lubricans may be described as hydrates or olatratos formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a polymer of methacrylic acid. Thereafter, the hydrate or ela-tract is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. Lubricants are marketed with varying degrees of glycerol: in terms of polymer ratio and viscosity. For use in the present invention, however, the so-called Lubragel Oil having a typical viscosity of about 0.8 Pa.s (800 cps) is preferred. Other suitable lubricants are Lubragel TW, Lubragel CG and Lubragel 13. Poly (glyceryl metasilicate) lubricant is incorporated in the present compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 30 - 30 1 10 15 80/06 -> OOC'03 " 20 25 64,674 Case; Cl 3 71

0.2% to about 2%, and more preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% by weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, and especially between about 0.3% and about 1%. Preferably the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20øC, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4Pa.s (4000 cps), more preferably at least about 10,000 cps (10 Pa.s) , and especially at least 50 Pa.s (50,000 cps). Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents may generally be described as water soluble or colloidally water soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, gum guar, hydroxy propyl guar gum and xanthan gum. Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents in the present invention are, however, the copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by P. Goodrich Oompany under the trade name of Carbopol resins. These resins essentially consist of an acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with a colloidal, water-soluble polyetheralkyl polyether, crosslinked with 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as, for example, polyalkylsucrose or polyalylpentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950 and Carbopol 980. Carbopol 934 is a water soluble, acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with about 1% of a sucralose polyalkyl ether with an average of about 5 , 8 allyl groups per sucrose molecule. The most preferred polymer is Carbopol 980 having a molecular weight of about 4,000,000. Also preferred for use herein are

Mod. 7? - 20,000 ex. 20 25 30 64-.674 Gasej CM 3 71

invention are the crosslinked and hydrophobically modified acrylic acid polymers with amphipathic properties available under the trade mark of Carbopol 1342 and Pemu-len TR-1 (Designation GO) 3 'A Crosslinked Acrylates / 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Polymer ) From the point of view of reducing tackiness a combination of the poly (alkenyl) polyether crosslinked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymer is highly preferred. Suitable neutralizing agents for use in neutralizing the acidic group containing gelling agents of the present invention include potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. The compositions according to the present invention also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a pad humidor. The panthenol humidifier may be selected from D-panthenol (DG-2,4-dihydroxy-β-hydroxy-propyl] -3,3-dimethylbutamide, DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine, panthenol, pantenyl-ethyl ether, pangemic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex. From the point of view of skin treatment and reduction of tackiness, D-panthenol is highly preferred. present invention are in the form of aqueous gel and are preferably formulated so as to have a product viscosity of at least about 40,000) and preferably in the range of about 4,000 to 300 Pa.s 300,000 cps), more preferably between about 20,000 and 200,000 cps, and especially between about 80,000 and 150,000 cps, (2020, such as Brook-fieldRVT). Preferably, the compositions are visually clear. Preferably, the compositions are also "735 T Ϊ 1 5 10 15 64.674 Case Casei CM 37

Mod.71-20,000 ex. That is, it will contain less than about 1%, and preferably less than about 0.1% of materials which are insoluble or which are not co-solids soluble in the matrix of aqueous gel at 20 ° C. The term " colloidally soluble " refers in the present context to particles within the range of usual colloidal sizes, typically from 1 to 1000 nm, especially from 1 to 500 nm. In highly preferred embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of materials which are insoluble or which are not soluble in water distilled at 20 ° C. Such materials include many conventional emollient materials such as hydrocarbon oils and waxes, glyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, fatty alcohols, certain fatty alcohol ethers and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, lanolin esters, lanolin esters , wax esters, beeswax derivatives, vegetable waxes, phospholipids, sterols and amides. The compositions may, however, contain low levels of insoluble ingredients added for, for example, visual effects purposes, such as thermochromic liquid crystalline materials, such as microcapsulated cholesteryl esters and chemicals based on chiral nematic ), such as (2-methyl-butyl) -phenyl-4-alkyl (oxy) benzoates available from Hallcrest, Glenview, Illinois 60025, USA. The compositions of the present invention need not, and are also preferably free, from surfactant materials which are conventionally added to the cosmetic lotion and creamer compositions to emulsify a water insoluble oil phase. The " substantially exempt " refers again to less than about 1%, preferably less than about 0.1% of said materials. Such emulsifiers include ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated esters, phosphatic esters, alcohol-8 · 35 1 5 10 15

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 64 * 674 Cases CM 3 71

polyoxyethylene fatty acid fatty acid phosphates, acyl lactylates, soaps, etc. It has been found that the combination of poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricant and panthenol humidifier is generally valid for the reduction of the compositions for treatment of the skin or hair in the form of aqueous gel. According to a further aspect of the invention there are provided compositions for treatment of the skin or hair in aqueous gel form comprising: (a) from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight of a (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble glyceryl polyCmethacrylate lubricant) having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20% aqueous, Brookfield RVT) than 4 Pa.s (4000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a panthenol humidifier. Other humectants polyhydric alcohols other than glycerol which may be added to the present compositions include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and hexanetriol. Various water soluble materials may be added to the compositions of the present invention. A further highly preferred ingredient from the point of view of skin feel and tackiness is a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with a viscosity in the range of about 55 to about 3000 000 Seconds Saybolt Seconds " Saybolt Universal Seconds "), preferably from about 100 to about 2000 sftJ.S. at 37.8 ° C (100 ° P), for example Ucoh Pluid 75-H 450. CM 3 71

Ura. another optional but preferred ingredient in the compositions of the invention and the sometimes-known trimethylglycine betaine. Trimethylglycine is valuable in the present compositions in that it provides improved skin feel and reduced tackiness. Trimethylglycine is preferably integrated in the present compositions at a level of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, and preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight. As optional materials include the α-retolytic agents, such as or salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; soluble or water-soluble preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzotriazole, EDTA, Euxyl Trade Mark K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane- 3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterial agents such as Irgasan Trademark and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels from about 0.5% to about 5%); soluble or colloidally soluble wetting agents such as hyaluronic acid, and sodium polyacrylates. starch inserts such as the Sanwet Trademark IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Cela-nese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, BUA and described in US-A-4 076 663; coloring agents; perfumes and solubilizers of perfumes, etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 99.2%, preferably from about 80% to about 95% by weight of the instant compositions. The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about of 9 and more preferably is about 4.5 to about 7. The invention is illustrated by the following limiting examples:

Mod. 71-20,000 βκ. - »0/08 20 25 30 64 ο 674Case: CM 3 71 Oloí T II III IV V D-pontenol 2 L t 4 1 n J Glycerin 2 6 3 Lubragel Oil 0,5 0,5 2,0 0,5 0 Carbopol 930 0.5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4 Pemulen TR-1 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 Hydroxide Sodium IO CM O 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2 Standard parabens 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1 Germa11 115 0.2 - 0.2 - 0.2 Hexylene glycol 2 - - - 2 Phenoxyethanol - - - 2,5 - Deionized Water - For 100 ---- The compositions are made by mixing at room temperature. ΐζ. S c 0 i «i 0 c. the skin treatment, the skin treatment, and the skin and hair characteristics, together with excellent characteristics of humidification, emollience, etc., are discussed in greater detail in the appended claims. , sieving in the pores and absorption.

Lisbon, 4 January 1950

By, ΊΉΕ PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY

Ψψ »MARQ0ES Ifflf Agénie Office of Industrial Property. The invention relates to a process for the preparation of a compound of the formula: ## STR1 ##

Claims (3)

l jr 64,674 Case: CM 3 71 j. (A) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of glycerol, (b) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of glycerol, (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyoxyalkyl methacrylate lubrication having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of less than (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a panthenol humectant. Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 1 5 10 15 Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 30 64 664 Case; CM 3 71 Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from about 1% to about 10%, preferably from about 2% to about 6% by weight of glycerin. 35. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant is a hydrate or a clot formed by reacting sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of 0.2 (200) to about 5,000 cps (Brookfield RYT, 202C), preferably 0.5 (500) to about 2 (2000 cps) Pa. Sec, and most preferably 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa. Sec (900 cps). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% by weight of the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant . Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a viscosity (202C, net, Brookfield RVI) of from about 4,000 to 300 Pa.sec. (300,000 cps) any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 202C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 Pa.sec. (4000 cps), preferably at least about 10 Pa. sec (10,000 cps). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the composition of claim 1, in that the plasticizing agent contains a carboxyvinyl polymer, preferably a water-soluble colloidal acrylic acid polymer, crosslinked with about 0.75% to about 2.0% of a cross-linking agent selected from polyalylsucrose and polyamylpentaerythritol. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the gelling agent comprises a hydrophobically modified, cross-linked acrylic acid polymer having amphipathic properties. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% gelling agent. . 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains from about 0.1% to about 5% panthenol humidifier. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is substantially free of oil. (A) from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight of a wetting polyhydric alcohol, (b) from about 1% by weight to about 40% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, from 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20%, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa · sec 4,000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a panthenol humidifier. Lisbon, -400 BC VA 69 MARQUES HM * Agtnie Office 4e Prcpriedede Industrial Oértórlo - Are · 4a Conceição, 3, 35