DE4440315A1 - Hair regenerating preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

Described are preparations containing an active-substance complex made from a cationic derivative of panthenol and a carbohydrate, such preparations having a significant regenerative effect on split hairs. This action can be increased by the addition of non-ionic or anionic polymers.

Description

The invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations that have a special hair-regenerating combination of active ingredients included.

The human hair is today in many ways with hair cosme table preparations treated. This includes cleaning, for example of hair with shampoos and shower preparations and bleaching, dyeing and Shaping hair with waving, tinting and styling products As a result of almost all hair treatments, it can lead to unwanted legs the hair structure is affected. These impairments show yourself u. a. in poor wet and dry combability, one reinforce electrostatic charge, increased brittleness and gravity more cases in split, d. H. split hair. This ver not only worsens the external appearance of the hairstyle, but ins Special hair splits should also be countered due to hair health be knitted.

A known way to alleviate these abuses is to use hair an aftertreatment with appropriate active ingredients, mostly cationic Surfactants, which may be combined with other substances undergo.

However, this approach cannot be satisfied on a number of points.

So it is known that cationic surfactants are only for the treatment of suitable for non-greasy hair; their use in rapidly relubricating Hair, on the other hand, is problematic because it puts additional strain on hair and strengthen the natural re-greasing of the hair.  

It is also unsatisfactory that the treatment with cationic surfactants usually in a separate step, usually a rinse must follow, since these cationic surfactants are often not in preparation Read gene with anionic surfactants such as shampoos sen.

Alternatively, the path was followed, the hair special, hair regenerating Add active ingredients to combat hair splitting in particular. According to German Offenlegungsschrift 37 11 841 the combinations stand out of panthenol with a mono- or disaccharide through a strong, hair regenerating effect even if it is only on the hair for a short time remain.

Finally, it is known from PCT publication WO 92/13829 that quaternized panthenol derivatives through an increased substantivity mark on the hair and u. a. the hair split caused by combing counteract.

It has now surprisingly been found that regeneration is more spliced Hair can be achieved on a very large scale if the split Hair can be treated with preparations that are next to a quaternized Panthenol derivatives contain certain carbohydrates.

The invention thus relates to preparations for the treatment of keratin shear fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that that they are a combination of active ingredients consisting of (A) a cationic deri dated panthenol and (B) a carbohydrate selected from Monosac charids, oligosaccharides, on and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohol fetch glycosides and quaternized monosaccharides.

Preferred cationically derivatized panthenols (A) are compounds of Formula (I),  

in which R, R¹ and R² independently of one another for an alkyl group with 1-24 Carbon atoms or an alkenyl group of 8-24 carbon atoms, R³ for an alkylene group with 1-18 carbon atoms, Y for an OH group or for hydrogen and X for a monovalent, organic or inorganic is anion.

Preferred compounds of the formula (I) are those in which R is is an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8-24 carbon atoms. Such Examples of alkyl or alkenyl groups are lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, Stearyl and oleyl groups. R¹ and R² are preferably alkyl groups with 1-4 Carbon atoms, especially methyl groups. R³ is preferably a short zere alkylene group with 1-4 carbon atoms, especially a methylene group. Y, due to the production process, preferably represents a hydroxyl group, X for a halide ion, especially for chloride.

Information regarding the preparation of these panthenol derivatives is the mentioned publication WO 92/13829, to which expressly here Reference is made. A corresponding product is from the company Tri-K sold under the name PANTHEQUAT®.

The cationically derivatized panthenols are in the invention Preparations preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, in particular contains from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the entire preparation.

According to the invention, both monosaccharides and also oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, milk sugar and raffi nose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred. Among the monosaccharides, preference is again given to those compounds which Contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms.  

Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xy loose, lyxose, allose, old rose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, Talose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are be preferred carbohydrates; Glucose is especially preferred.

Derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the ent speaking ononic and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glyco side, can be used according to the invention. Preferred sugar acids are those Gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannosugaric acid and the mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dul cit. Preferred glycosides are the methyl glucosides.

Quaternized carbohydrates can also be used as a component according to the invention (B) can be used. The commercial product Glucquat®100 (according to the CTFA nomenclature a lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chlo ride) is a preferred quaternized carbohydrate.

Because the carbohydrates used are usually from natural raw materials The carbohydrates usually show how starches are obtained corresponding configurations (e.g. D-glucose, D-Fruc tose and D-galactose).

The carbohydrates in the preparations according to the invention are preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, bezo on the entire preparation.

It was also found that certain classes of polymers, their representatives none or no increase in combination with panthenol derivatives ten have hair-regenerating properties, the hair-regenerating Effect in the agents according to the invention in a synergistic manner gladly.

These classes of polymers are nonionic and anionic polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as those under the name Luviskol® (BASF) are sold. Polyvinyl pyrrolidones are coming pulled nonionic polymers within the scope of the invention.
• - Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as described for example under the Luviskol® trademark (BASF). Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and Methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, such as those found under the goods Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON).
• - Shellac

Examples of anionic polymers suitable according to the invention are:

• - Polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with Acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their derivatives, which are obtained through cross-linking with polyfunctional agents the. Connections of this type are, for example, under the designation Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940 (Carbopol EDT 2001), Carbopol 941 (Carbopol® EDT 2050), Carbopol®950, Carbopol®980, Carbo pol®981, Carbopol® EDT 2020 and Hostacerin®PN 73 available.
• - Copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid or their esters with C _10-30 alkyl acrylates, as are sold, for example, under the name Pemulen®.
• - Polyoxycarboxylic acids, such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, such as POC®HS 5060 and POC®AS5O60.
• - Polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of Acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers. Connections of this kind are under the brand names Resyn® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset®  (BASF) and Gafset® (GAF) in retail; the products Luviset®CA-66 and Luviset®CAP can be particularly preferred.
• - Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, available for example under the trademark Luviflex® (BASF). A preferred polymer is the vinyl available under the name Luviflex® VBM-35 (BASF) pyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
• - Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers, which for example sold under the name Ultrahold® strong (BASF) as well as methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / t-butyl acrylate terpolymer, which are sold under the name Luvimer®100P (BASF).

These nonionic or anionic polymers are preferred in one Amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation used.

The preparations according to the invention can also contain surfactants, in particular non-ionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such Connections are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles Propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fat acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms men in the alkyl group,
• - C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol,
• - Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and ge hardened castor oil.
• - Methylglucose difatty acid esters etherified with oligoglycerin.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) _x . These connections are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear be branched as well. Primary linear and 2-position are preferred methyl branched aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Especially 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are preferred. When used like this "Oxo-alcohols" as starting materials predominate compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

The alkyl glycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain only one contain certain alkyl radical R. Usually these connections but based on natural fats and oils or mineral oils poses. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to Starting compounds or according to the respective processing of these Connections before.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• - essentially from C₈ and C₁₀ alkyl groups,
• - essentially from C₁₂- and C₁₄-alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C₈ to C₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - consists essentially of C₁₂- to C₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as the sugar building block Z. be set. Usually sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms as well as the corresponding oligosaccharides. Such sugars are for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, Lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Be preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and Sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl glycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x Is 1.1 to 1.4.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also are used according to the invention. These homologues can be average  up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit included.

With the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants, it can are each a uniform substance. However, it is in the Re gel preferred in the manufacture of these substances from native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that you can mix substances with un different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material holds.

In the case of surfactants, the addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these adducts, can use products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. Under "Normal" homolog distribution, mixtures of homologs are ver stood, which one in the implementation of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide under Use of alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal receives alcoholates as catalysts. Narrow homolog distributions who on the other hand, if, for example, hydrotalcite, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alko holates can be used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The preparations according to the invention preferably contain tensides in men gen from 0.2 to 20 wt .-%, based on the respective preparation.

The other constituents of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are depending on the type of hair treatment product. In principle, these include Formulations according to the invention all known types of hair treatment means such as B. hair shampoos, hair rinses, hair conditioners, Hair treatments, hair fixers, hair sprays, blow dryers, permanent waving agents and hair colorant. Hair treatments are a preferred form of the invention Means.

Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are generally those that remain on the hair after application. Nevertheless, it can be  In particular cases, the agents according to the invention may also be preferred Formulate the form of so-called rinse-off products.

Other components of the agents according to the invention can, for example be:

• - Anionic surfactants, such as fatty alkyl sulfates and ethers sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids,
• zwitterionic surfactants, such as betaines,
• - ampholytic surfactants,
• - structurants such as maleic acid,
• - Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example Soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, as well as silicone oils,
• - Protein hydrolyzates, especially elastin, collagen, keratin, milk Protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensate on products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates,
• - perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,
• - dyes,
• - anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine and Zink Omadine,
• - other substances for adjusting the pH value,
• - Active ingredients such as panthenol, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their Salts, plant extracts and vitamins,
• - light stabilizers,
• - consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - Fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and Fatty alcohols,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,
• - Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and pri mary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex,
• - pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,
• - Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂ and Air as well
• - antioxidants,  
• direct dyes,
• - So-called coupler and developer components as an oxidation dye intermediate products,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thio lactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - Oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bro mat.

The invention also relates to the use of the invention Agents for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The invention also relates to a method for the treatment of Hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair will and remains there.

Finally, the invention also relates to a method for treatment of hair in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the hair brings and rinsed again after an exposure time (1 to 40 minutes) becomes.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples I. Anti-split effect

Each 20 split hairs were soaked in 12.5% sodium for 5 minutes Lauryl ether sulfate solution dipped and rinsed with lukewarm water. The hair was then in the sample preparations for 5 minutes held, dried for 30 minutes at 60 ° C in a forced air drying cabinet. These The procedure was repeated 5 times and then the hair at room temperature tur (65% rel. humidity) examined. The compositions of the Sample preparations and the split rates after 5 treatments are in table 1 compiled.

Table 1: [all amounts in% by weight]

II. Examples of use

The amounts in the following examples are% by weight.

1) Leave-on hair treatment

2) Leave-on hair treatment

3) shampoo

4) hair fixer

Claims (14)

1. Preparations for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that they consist of an active ingredient combination

• (A) a cationically derivatized panthenol and
• (B) a carbohydrate selected from
  • - monosaccharides,
  • - oligosaccarids,
  • - On and uronic acids (sugar acids),
  • - sugar alcohols,
  • - glycosides and
  • - contain quaternized monosaccharides.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the katio nically derivatized panthenol (A) is a compound of formula (I), in which R, R¹ and R² independently of one another for an alkyl group with 1-24 carbon atoms or an alkenyl group with 8-24 carbon atoms, R³ for an alkylene group with 1-18 carbon atoms, Y for an OH group or for hydrogen and X for a monovalent, organic or inorganic anion. 3. Preparations according to claim 2, characterized in that (A) a Compound of formula (I) in which R is an alkyl or alkenyl group with 8-24 carbon atoms, R¹ and R² are methyl groups, and R³ is one  Alkylene group with 1-4 carbon atoms, Y is a hydroxy group and X are a halide ion. 4. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in net that the carbohydrate (B) is a mono- or disaccharide. 5. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the Carbohydrate (B) contains 5 or 6 carbon atoms. 6. Preparations according to claim 5, characterized in that the Carbohydrate (B) is glucose. 7. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in net that they are also a nonionic or anionic polymer contain. 8. Preparations according to claim 7, characterized in that the poly mere is non-ionic. 9. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that that is not ionic polymers is a homo- or copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone. 10. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in net that component (A) in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the entire preparation, is included. 11. Preparations according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in net that component (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%,  in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the entire preparation, is included. 12. Preparations according to one of claims 7 to 11, characterized in net that the polymer in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, in particular containing 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation is. 13. A method of treating hair, characterized in that a Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 12 applied to the hair will and remains there. 14. A method for treating hair, characterized in that a Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 12 applied to the hair and is rinsed out again after a contact time.