WO2000061101A1

WO2000061101A1 - Aqueous cosmetic preparations containing tartaric-acid or citric-acid esters of alkyl polyglucose and cationic or amphoteric polymers

Info

Publication number: WO2000061101A1
Application number: PCT/EP2000/002969
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jens Meyer; Dieter Goddinger; Winfried Seidel; Joachim-Kurt Foitzik
Original assignee: Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg
Priority date: 1999-04-12
Filing date: 2000-04-04
Publication date: 2000-10-19
Also published as: AU4542400A; DE19916334A1

Abstract

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic preparations for the treatment of the hair or skin, on the basis of a mild surface-active agent. Said preparations contain: as surface-active agent at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) of general formula (I), in which X is H or a CH2COOR group; Y is H or OH, provided that Y is H if X is CH2COOR; R, R?1 and R2¿ independently of each other are a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a rest Z which stems from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group comprising etherified (C¿6?-C18)-alkyl polysaccharides with between 1 and 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C6-C16)-hydroxyalkyl polyols with between 2 and 16 hydroxyl rests, provided that at least one of the groups R, R?1 or R2¿ is a rest Z; and at least one polymer (B) selected from the cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers. The above preparations are characterized by exceptional mildness and highly effect.

Description

AQUEOUS COSMETIC AGENT, WHICH CONTAINS VINYL ACID OR CITRIC ACID ESTER OF ALKYL POLYGLUCOSIS AND CATIONIC OR AMPHOTHERIC POLYMERS

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair or skin, which are formulated on a mild surfactant basis, and to the use of these compositions for cleaning hair and skin.

The cleaning and care of skin and hair as well as the decorative design of the hairstyle are important components of human body care. The efforts to make optimized products available to the hairdresser as well as the end user are correspondingly great. One focus of the development work is of course on the actual product properties, be it the cleaning effect of a shampoo, a shower bath or a liquid soap, the care effect of a hair treatment or skin cream, the coloring properties of a colorant or a tint, the quality of a perm or the hairstyle hold of a setting or Hair sprays. At the same time, attempts are increasingly being made to prevent possible undesirable side effects, such as can occur in certain consumer groups such as allergy sufferers or very sensitive people. This led, for example, to the development of particularly skin-friendly surfactant systems for cleaning agents. In particular, there is a desire to provide formulations based on very mild ingredients for products that can also come into contact with the eyes unintentionally as part of the application.

Such very mild agents are not accepted by the consumer if other essential product properties are significantly worse or are considered to be worse. In many cases, shampoos based on very mild surfactant mixtures foam significantly less. A large amount of foam is often equated by the consumer with a good cleaning effect, so that he sees deficits here. Farther Hair that is washed with such mildly formulated shampoos often gives a dull impression. The same applies, for example, to shower rooms.

It is therefore still the task to provide agents for the treatment of hair and skin which are distinguished on the one hand by a very mild surfactant base and on the other hand by excellent product performance.

It has now surprisingly been found that agents with certain mild surfactants in combination with cationic polymers are both extremely mild and have excellent product performance. For example, hair that is cleaned with appropriate shampoos has excellent properties in terms of volume, shine, combability, grip and "body".

The invention therefore relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions for treating the hair or the skin on a mild surfactant base, which contain as surfactant at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bicarbonic acid or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I),

X

I.

HO - C - COOR ¹ (I)

Y - CH - COOR ²

in the

XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,

YH or -OH is, provided that X is when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic Base or a radical Z which is derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl Polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, is selected, under the condition that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a Z radical and at least one polymer (B) selected from cationic polymers and amphopolymer.

The compounds of the formula (I) are, for example, from European patent EP-B1-0 258 814 and from the articles by N. Burns, Drag Cosmet. Ind. 160 (3), 42 (1997) and T. Verzotti et al., Cosmetic News XX-112, 29 (1997). However, this prior art does not provide any indication of the agents according to the invention.

The preparation of the compounds of the formula (I) is described in detail in European Patent EP -B 1-0 258 814. With regard to the individual representatives defined by the general formula (I), express reference is made to the content of this European patent specification, in particular the passage from page 2, line 43, to page 5, line 56.

In the context of the present invention, R, R ¹ and R ² preferably represent alkali metal cations, in particular the sodium ion, alkaline earth metal cations, in particular the magnesium ion, and the ammonium ion.

The group Z is preferably an etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharide. Group Z preferably contains glucose as the saccharide.

C ₆ -C ₆ alkyl groups in particular are used as alkyl groups, the choice of unbranched saturated groups being preferred. The alkyl groups can, however, also be mixtures which are obtained when natural fats and oils are processed. Mixtures consisting essentially of

C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups,

C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups or

C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl groups can be preferred according to the invention. A mixture of alkyl groups, such as is obtained when coconut oil is processed, is very particularly preferred. Group Z contains 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units. According to a preferred embodiment, the group Z contains 2 to 6 glucose units. However, it may also be preferred to use groups Z with 1.2 to 3, in particular 1.3 to 2, glucose units. It should be noted that mixtures always arise in the synthesis, and these numerical values are derived from the stoichiometric ratio of the starting substances fatty alcohol and saccharide.

The compounds according to formula (I) are derivatives of citric acid, tartaric acid or malic acid. Such compounds which are derivatives of citric acid and in particular tartaric acid are preferred according to the invention.

Commercial products, which are sold by the company Cesalpinia under the names Eucarol ^® AGE-ET and Eucarol ^® AGE-EC, have proven to be particularly suitable representatives of the compounds of the formula (I).

The agents according to the invention can of course also contain more than one surfactant (A) of the formula (I).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of formula (I) in amounts of 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts of 1 to 5% by weight and in particular in amounts of about 2 to 3% by weight. -%, each based on the total mean.

The agents according to the invention contain a polymer (B) as a second mandatory component.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain a cationic polymer as polymer (B).

The permanent cationic polymers are preferred among the cationic polymers. According to the invention, polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the agent are referred to as “permanently cationic” usually polymers that have a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of a

Ammonium group.

Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives. Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-arnino- modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80),

Cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ^® Guar and Jaguar ^® ,

Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyl diallylarnmoniumchlorid-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers.

Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755. Vinylpyrrolidone methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers such as those sold under the name Luviquat ^®, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and under the designations Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.

Cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are quaternized cellulose derivatives and polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers. Cationic cellulose derivatives, in particular the commercial product Polymer ^® JR 400, are very particularly preferred cationic polymers.

Ampho-polymers are also suitable as polymers (B). The term amphopolymer refers to amphoteric polymers, i.e. Polymers that contain both free amino grappes and free -COOH or Sθ3H groups in the molecule and to form internal ones

Salts are capable, zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^" or -SO3 ^' groups in the molecule, and those polymers which contain -COOH or Sθ3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin, the methacrylate is a copolymer of tert.-butylamino, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters. Likewise preferred amphopolymers are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (for example acrylic and methacrylic acid), cationically derivatized unsaturated carboxylic acids (for example acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride) and optionally other ionic or nonionic monomers, as described, for example, in German Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973 and can be found in the prior art cited there. Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and memacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, as are commercially available under the name Merquat ^® 2001 N, are particularly preferred amphopolymers according to the invention. The polymers (B) are preferred in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 5% by weight. based on the entire preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 2% by weight are particularly preferred.

The agents according to the invention contain water as the third mandatory component.

The agents according to the invention usually have a pH in the range from 2 to 9. Agents with pH values in the range from 3 to 7, in particular in the range from 4 to 5.5, can be preferred in the context of the teaching according to the invention.

Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH. In the event that an acid is used to adjust the pH, it may be preferred to use an acid from the group of the edible acids such as, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the cosmetic agent is not subject to any restrictions. In principle, all types of agents also available on the market, in particular the above-mentioned preparations, come into consideration.

However, the mildness of the preparations according to the invention is particularly effective in agents for treating the hair and skin, in particular for cleaning and maintaining the hair and skin.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is a hair cleanser (shampoo), a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. Shampoos and shower baths are preferred representatives of this embodiment.

These agents can contain all other ingredients known for such preparations. The shampoos, shower baths, foam baths and liquid soaps according to the invention preferably contain at least one further cleaning component. This is selected in particular from the group of anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants; However, according to a further embodiment, it can also be cationic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in agents according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammomium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Is alkyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, amide ether carboxylates of the formula [R-NH (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CH ₂ -COO] _m Z, in which R is for one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical with 2 to 29 C atoms, n for integers from 1 to 10, m for the numbers 1 or 2 and Z for a cation from the group of alkali or alkaline earth metals, acyl sarcosides with 10 up to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkane sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (-CH2-CH2θ) _χ -Sθ3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18

C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-3725 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, coconut monoglyceride sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono- alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Non-ionic surfactants contain z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, Ci 2-C22-F ^ett säuremono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol

Ethylene oxide on glycerol,

Cg-C22 ^_ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues as well Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (S) _χ . These connections are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Examples of such alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only a certain alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

consists essentially of Cg and C _j Q alkyl groups, essentially from C ^ and C 14 alkyl groups, essentially from Cg to C1 g alkyl groups or essentially from C 12 to C 1 g alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block S. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose. Arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, marmose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose. Fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are very particularly preferred.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of the fragrance components on the hair. In the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair beyond the duration of the hair treatment is desired, the person skilled in the art will preferably resort to this substance class as a further ingredient of the preparations according to the invention.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when converting fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. By contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts become. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as co-surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one in the molecule

Wear a -COO or -SO group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl-ammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate. and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are also particularly suitable as co-surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 18 -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-Kokosalkylamino- propionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and _{C] 2} .ι ₈ acyl sarcosine.

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride. Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid. May continue to the very readily biodegradable quaternary Esterverbindungen, such as the products marketed under the trademark Stepantex ^® Dialkylarnmoniummethosulfate and methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkyl methosulfates and the corresponding products of Dehyquart ^® series, be used as cationic surfactants. The quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.

The shampoos according to the invention preferably contain the further cleaning components in amounts of from 5.0 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5.0 to 20% by weight, based on the particular preparation.

Preparations of particularly great mildness are obtained if, in addition to the surfactants (A), a zwitterionic surfactant, in particular of the betaine type, is used. Anionic and / or nonionic surfactants can then be added as further surfactants.

A combination of four consisting of

Surfactants (A) according to formula (I), zwitterionic surfactants, in particular of the betaine type, anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts, and

Nonionic surfactants, in particular of the alkylglycoside type, have proven to be outstandingly suitable according to the invention.

The agents according to the invention preferably also contain at least one organic thickener. Such thickeners are, for example, thickeners such as agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular those with limited homolog distribution as they are, for example, as a commercial product under the name Arlypon F ^® (Henkel) on the market, alkoxylated methyl glucoside, such as the product Glucamate ^® DOE 120 (Amerchol) and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters such as the commercial product Antü ^® 141 (Goldschmidt) can be preferred organic thickeners.

As already mentioned above, the agents according to the invention are not subject to any fundamental restrictions with regard to their intended use. Hair treatment agents can be, for example, shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, permanent waving agents (wave lotions, fixatives), hair colorants, hair tinting agents, hair setting agents, hair sprays, hair lotions or hair tip fluids. Depending on the intended use, the preparations can be formulated as solutions, emulsions, gels, creams, aerosols or lotions; they can remain on the hair or, after a short exposure time, which can be preferred, rinsed out again.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention, which also serve to treat hair, contain at least one additional conditioning active ingredient. In particular, this improves the combability of the hair after the treatment. This is especially recommended for shampoos that are formulated for the "children" target group in order to correspond to the well-known sensitivity of children when combing, especially of wet hair.

Protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein, almond protein, pea protein, potato protein, oat protein, corn protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates are also suitable as conditioning agents . Products based on plants can be preferred according to the invention.

Silicone oils and silicone gums suitable as conditioning agents are, in particular, dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such silicones are the products sold by Dow Coming under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial product Fancorsil ^® LIM-1. A suitable anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Coming ^® ! 784. In addition to a good conditioning effect, alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines such as the ^{stearylamidopropyldimethylamine} available under the name Tego Amid ^® S 18, are notable for their good biodegradability.

Quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as the dialkylammonium methosulfates sold under the trademark Stepantex ^® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart ^® series are also very readily biodegradable.

Preferred vegetable oils and waxes as conditioning agents are jojoba oil, sunflower oil. Orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil. Jojoba oil and orange oil are particularly preferred.

For the formulation of very mild preparations in particular, it has also proven to be advantageous if the amount of dissolved inorganic salts is limited to less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight. It should also be noted that such salts are not only e.g. to adjust the viscosity, but can also be introduced by other active ingredients, in particular surfactants.

Other customary constituents for the agents according to the invention are: nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic and methacrylic acid esters and - amides and their derivatives, which are obtained by crosslinking with polyfunctional agents, polyoxycarboxylic acids, such as polyketo and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, and polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate. Vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers, structurants such as glucose and maleic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, other perfume oils, in particular those with the fragrance note of a cargo, such as apple, bime. Strawberry. Peach apricot. Pineapple, banana. Cherry. Kiwi, mango, coconut. Almond, grapefruit. Passion fruit, tangerine and melon, or the scent of a luxury, such as tobacco, cola. Chewing gum, guarana, chocolate. Cocoa, vanilla. Sarsaparilla, peppermint and rum. Dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides, dyes,

Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine, active agents such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmid, tocopherol and plant extracts,

Light stabilizers,

Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, glycerides and fatty alcohols, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3 distearate, direct dyes so-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye precursors,

Reducing agents such as Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cytamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate, blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air and

Antioxidants, Bitter substances such as Denatonium Benzoate, preservatives.

The invention also relates to the use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 10 for cleaning skin and hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight. 1. Hair shampoos

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 70% active substance in water; INCI name: Sodium Laureth sulfate) (HENKEL)

N, N-Dimethyl-N-coconut amidopropylammonium acetobetaine (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name: Cocamidopropyl betaine) (CLARIANT) N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethylglycine sodium salt (approx. 50% active substance in water; INCI name : Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) (WITCO) neutralized ester of alkyl polyglucose with tartaric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water; ιNCI name (provisional): Sodium Cocopolyglucose Tartrate) (CESALPINIA) neutralized ester of alkyl polyglucose with citric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water ; ιNCI name (provisional): Sodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate) (CESALPINIA)

C _8-14 alkyl polyglucoside (approx. 52% active substance in water; INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (HENKEL)

C ₁₂ . ₁₄ - fatty alcohol + 2.5 ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-2) (HENKEL) coconut monoglyceride + 7.3 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) (HENKEL)

D-panthenyl alcohol (75% active substance in water) (HOFFMANN LA-ROCHE) quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (AMERCHOL)

Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (approx. 9% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) (MERCK)

Terpolymer of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimomum chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47) (CALGON) benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate (2.5% active substance in water; INCI name: Aqua, Denatonium Benzoate) (MACFARLAN SMITH)

Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone monoethanolamine salt (INCI name: Piroctone Olamine) (CLARIANT)

Wheat protein hydrolyzate (approx. 18% active substance; INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (DGF STOESS) Silicone emulsion (INCI name: Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate) (CALGON)

Claims

claims

1. Aqueous cosmetic agent for the treatment of hair or skin on a mild surfactant base, characterized in that it contains: as surfactant at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I),

X

I.

HO - C - COOR ¹ (I)

I.

Y - CH - COOR ²

in the

XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,

YH or -OH is on the condition that Y is, when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic Base or a radical Z which is derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -Hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, is selected, under the condition that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, and at least one polymer (B) selected from cationic polymers and Ampho-polymers.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical Z of the compounds of the formula (I) is a polyglucose (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) monoalkyl ether having 1 to 6 glucose units.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid is selected from tartaric acid and citric acid.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polymer (B) is permanently cationic.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the polymer (B) is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a hair cleaning agent, a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains at least one further surfactant.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the further surfactant is selected from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

9. Composition according spoke 8, characterized in that it contains a zwitterionic surfactant in combination with an anionic and / or a nonionic surfactant.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains an organic thickener.

11. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for cleaning skin or hair.