DE19916334A1 - Cosmetic agent and use - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic preparations for the treatment of the hair or skin, on the basis of a mild surface-active agent. Said preparations contain: as surface-active agent at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) of general formula (I), in which X is H or a CH2COOR group; Y is H or OH, provided that Y is H if X is CH2COOR; R, R<1> and R<2> independently of each other are a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a rest Z which stems from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group comprising etherified (C6-C18)-alkyl polysaccharides with between 1 and 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C6-C16)-hydroxyalkyl polyols with between 2 and 16 hydroxyl rests, provided that at least one of the groups R, R<1> or R<2> is a rest Z; and at least one polymer (B) selected from the cationic polymers and amphoteric polymers. The above preparations are characterized by exceptional mildness and highly effect.

Description

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic agents for treating the hair or the Skin formulated on a mild surfactant base and the use of it Means for cleaning hair and skin.

The cleaning and care of skin and hair as well as the decorative design of the hairstyle are important components of human body care. They are correspondingly large Efforts to opti both the hairdresser and the end user in all respects to make available products. One focus of the development work is naturally with the actual product properties, be it the cleaning effect of a shampoo, a shower bath or a liquid soap, the care effect a hair treatment or skin cream, the coloring properties of a colorant or Tint, the quality of a perm or the hairstyle hold of a setting or hair sprays. At the same time, attempts are made to identify possible undesirable side effects, such as they are very sensitive to certain groups of consumers, such as allergy sufferers prevent people from appearing to an ever greater extent. This resulted in for example for the development of particularly skin-friendly surfactant systems for cleaning agents tel. In particular, there is a desire for products that are also within the scope of the application can accidentally come into contact with the eyes, formulations based very to provide mild ingredients.

Such very mild agents are not accepted by the consumer if other essential product properties are significantly poorer or worse  will see. Many shampoos based on very mild surfactant mixtures foam Cases significantly less. A large amount of foam is very common by the consumer equated with a good cleaning effect, so that he sees deficits here. Farther often awaken hair washed with such mildly formulated shampoos a dull impression. The same applies, for example, to shower rooms.

There is therefore still the task of means for the treatment of hair and skin To provide, on the one hand by a very mild surfactant base, but on the other hand also characterized by excellent product performance.

It has now surprisingly been found that agents with certain mild surfactants in combination with cationic polymers are both extremely mild and outstanding have outstanding product performance. For example, hair that has ent talking shampoos, excellent volume properties, Shine, combability, grip and "body" on.

The invention therefore relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair or skin on a mild surfactant base, which contain

• at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I) as surfactant,
  in the
  XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,
  YH or -OH is on the condition that when X is -CH ₂ COOR, Y is H,
  R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which comes from the group which is etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, on the condition that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, and
• - at least one polymer (B) selected from cationic polymers and ampho- Polymers.

The compounds of formula (I) are, for example, from the European patent EP-B1-0 258 814 and from the articles by N. Burns, Dnug Cosmet. Ind. 160 (3), 42 (1997) and T. Verzotti et al., Cosmetic News XX-112, 29 (1997). This state of the However, technology does not provide any information on the agents according to the invention.

The preparation of the compounds of formula (I) is detailed in the European Patent specification EP-B1-0 258 814 described. Regarding the individual representative by The general formula (I) to be defined is expressly based on the content of this euro European patent specification, in particular the passage from page 2, line 43, to page 5, line 56, referenced.

In the context of the present invention, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} preferably alkali metal cations, in particular the sodium ion, alkaline earth metal cations, in particular the magnesium ion, and the ammonium ion.

The group Z is preferably an etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharide. Group Z preferably contains glucose as the saccharide. C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkyl groups in particular are used as alkyl groups, the choice of unbranched saturated groups being preferred. The alkyl groups can, however, also be mixtures which he will maintain when processing natural fats and oils. Mixtures consisting essentially of

• - C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• - C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups or
• - C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl groups

can be preferred according to the invention. A mixture of is very particularly preferred Alkyl groups as obtained in the processing of coconut oil. Group Z contains 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units. According to a preferred In one embodiment, the group Z contains 2 to 6 glucose units. But it can also happen before be assigned to use groups Z with 1.2 to 3, in particular 1.3 to 2, glucose units. It should be borne in mind that mixtures always arise during synthesis, and these Numerical values from the stoichiometric ratio of the starting substances fatty alcohol and saccharide can be derived.

The compounds of formula (I) are derivatives of citric acid, tartaric acid or of malic acid. Such compounds, the derivatives of citric acid and especially the Represent tartaric acid are preferred according to the invention.

Commercial products manufactured by Cesalpinia under the names Eucarol® AGE- ET and Eucarol® AGE-EC have been found to be particularly suitable ver treads of the compounds of formula (I) have been proven.

The agents according to the invention can of course also have more than one surfactant (A) Contain formula (I).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of formula (I) in Amounts from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts from 1 to 5% by weight and in particular in amounts of about 2 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the total agent.

The agents according to the invention contain a polymer as a second mandatory component (B).

According to a first, preferred embodiment, the inventive Agent as polymer (B) is a cationic polymer.

The permanent cationic polymers are among the cationic polymers moves. According to the invention, such polymers are termed “permanently cationic” if  which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are in usually polymers that have a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of a Ammonium group.

Preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat® and Po lymer JR® are commercially available. The connections Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
• - Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as those obtained commercially products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino modified silicone, also called amodimethicone), SM-2059 (Manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt, diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80),
• - Cationic guar derivatives, in particular those under the trade names Products distributed by Cosmedia®Guar and Jaguar®,
• - Polymer Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and Amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the designations Mer quat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyl diallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers.
• - Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate, such as vinyl quaternized with diethyl sulfate pyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers. Such connections are under the names Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755 are commercially available.
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers, as described under the Be drawing Luviquat®.
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol

as well as those under the designations

• - polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and  
• - Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.

Cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are quaternized cellulose derivatives as well as polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers. Cationic Cellulose derivatives, especially the commercial product Polymer®JR 400, are complete particularly preferred cationic polymers.

Ampho-polymers are also suitable as polymers (B). Under the generic term ampho- polymers are amphoteric polymers, ie polymers that contain both free amino groups in the molecule and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers that contain quaternary ammonium groups in the molecule and -COO ^- - or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized together such polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. An example of an amphopolymer which can be used according to the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name Amphomer®, which comprises a copolymer of tert-butylamino ethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the Group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters. Likewise preferred amphopolymers are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (e.g. acrylic and methacrylic acid), cationically derivatized unsaturated carboxylic acids (e.g. acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride) and optionally other ionic or nonionic monomers, as described, for example, in German Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973 and the prior art cited therein. Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, as are commercially available under the name Merquat®2001 N, are, according to the invention, particularly preferred amphopolymers.

The polymers (B) are preferred in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation. Quantities from 0.1 to 2% by weight are particularly preferred.

The agents according to the invention contain water as the third mandatory component.

The agents according to the invention usually have a pH in the range from 2 to 9 on. Agents with pH values in the range from 3 to 7, in particular in the range from 4 to 5.5, can be preferred in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Virtually any of them can be used for cosmetic purposes to adjust this pH bare acid or base can be used. In the event that a If acid is used, it may be preferred to use an acid from the group of edible acids such as acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, Ascor to use bic acid and gluconic acid. The use is within the scope of the invention of citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the cosmetic agent is not subject to any restrictions. Coming in principle all types of funds on the market, especially those above preparations mentioned.

However, the mildness of the preparations according to the invention is mainly used in agents treatment of hair and skin, especially for cleaning and care of the hair and of the skin, to wear.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the invention appropriate means around a hair cleanser (shampoo), a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. Shampoos and shower baths are preferred representatives of this Aus management form.

These agents can ent all known ingredients for such preparations ent hold.  

The shampoos, shower baths, foam baths and liquid soaps according to the invention contain preferably at least one further cleaning component. This will in particular from the group of anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and nonionic Selected surfactants; but it can also be according to a further embodiment act cationic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in agents according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium as well as mono-, di-. and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• - Amide ether carboxylates of the formula [R-NH (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _n -CH ₂ -COO] _m Z, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 2 to 29 C atoms, n is integers from 1 to 10, m stands for the numbers 1 or 2 and Z stands for a cation from the group of the alkali or alkaline earth metals,
• Acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Monosulfonic succinate and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,  
• - Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• - Sulphated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds gene according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to Represent 22 carbon atoms,
• - Coconut monoglyceride sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ethers carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ethers groups in the molecule, as well as sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Non-ionic surfactants contain z. B. a polyol group, a poly lyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

• - Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms Atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• - C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues and
• - Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened Ri castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (S) _x . These connections are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and ver be branches. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphati in the 2-position are preferred leftovers. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds predominate genes with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can, for example, only have one contain certain alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these connections are made Made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case lie as alkyl radicals R mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or accordingly the respective processing of these compounds.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• essentially from C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• essentially from C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block S. Usually sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding Oligosaccharides used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose and galac tose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.  

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 Sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. All alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are particularly preferred.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve for fixation to improve the fragrance components on the hair. The specialist is therefore in the event that an effect of the perfume oil beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair is desired, preferably to this class of substances as an additional ingredient of the preparations according to the invention.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention according to be used. These homologues can average up to 10 ethylene contain oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can in each case be act uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in the manufacture these substances from natural vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Mixtures of substances with different alkyl depending on the respective raw material chain lengths.

In the case of surfactants, the addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide with fat Alcohols or derivatives of these addition products can represent both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrowed homolo gene distribution can be used. Under "normal" 'homolog distribution Mixtures of homologues understood, which one in the implementation of fatty alcohol and Alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali receives metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowing homolog distributions will be on the other hand, if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carbon acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates used as catalysts become. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be to be preferred.  

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as co-surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) - or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are also particularly suitable as co-surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hy droxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylamino propionic acid and alkylamino acetic acid each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylamino propionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acyl sarcosine.

Examples of those which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Cationic surfactants are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Are preferred Ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammo niumchloride, dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride and trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Furthermore, they can do very well Biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as those under the  Trademark Stepantex® distributed dialkylammonium methosulfate and methyl hydroxyalkyl-dialkoyloxyalkyl-ammonium methosulfates and the corresponding products the Dehyquart® series, used as cationic surfactants. More fiction The quaternized protein hydrolyzates represent usable cationic surfactants.

The shampoos according to the invention preferably contain the further cleansing agents Components in amounts of 5.0 to 40 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 20 wt .-%, be moved to the respective preparation.

Preparations of particularly great mildness are obtained if, in addition to the Ten siden (A) a zwitterionic surfactant, in particular of the betaine type, is used. Anionic and / or nonionic surfactants can then be added as further surfactants be added.

A combination of four consisting of

• Surfactants (A) according to formula (I),
• Zwitterionic surfactants, in particular of the betaine type,
• anionic surfactants, especially alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts,
  and
• Nonionic surfactants, in particular of the alkylglycoside type,

has proven to be outstandingly suitable according to the invention.

The agents according to the invention preferably also contain at least one organic agent Thickener. Such thickeners are, for example, thickeners such as Agar agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ether, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan Gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially those with restricted homologues division, as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon®F (Henkel) are on the market, alkoxylated methyl; lucoside ester, such as the commercial product Glucamate® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil® 141 (Goldschmidt) can be preferred organic thickeners.  

As already mentioned above, the agents according to the invention are subject to their Intended use no fundamental restrictions. So it can be with Haarbe agent for example around shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, permanent wave medium (well lotions, fixatives), hair colorants, hair tinting agents, hair fixatives, hair act sprays, hair lotions or hair tip fluids. According to the usage The preparations can be used as solutions, emulsions, gels, creams, aerosols or Lotions are formulated; they can remain on the hair, or after a short one Contact time, which may be preferred, rinsed out again.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the inventive Agents that also serve hair treatment, at least one additional conditioning agent. This also makes it easier to comb the hair improved after treatment. This is especially recommended for shampoos that are for the Target group "children" should be formulated to the known sensitivity of children to match when combing especially wet hair.

Protein hydrolyzates, especially elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein, Almond protein, pea protein, potato protein, oat protein, corn protein and white zen protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized Protein hydrolyzates are also suitable as conditioning agents. You can Plant-based products may be preferred according to the invention.

Silicone oils and silicone gums that are suitable as conditioning agents are in particular Dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methyl phenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogues. Examples of such Silicones are those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 distributed products as well as the commercial product Fancorsil® LIM-1. A suitable one anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Corning®1784.

Alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines such as that under the name Tego Amid®S 18 available stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, stand out next to one good conditioning effect especially due to its good biodegradability.  

Quaternary ester compounds are also very readily biodegradable "Esterquats", such as the Dialkyl-ammoni sold under the trademark Stepantex® ummethosulfate and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series.

Preferred vegetable oils and waxes as conditioning agents are jojoba oil, Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil. Jojoba oil and Orange oil is particularly preferred.

In particular for the formulation of very mild preparations, it has continued to be the case Proven partially if the amount of dissolved inorganic salts is less than 2 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-% is limited. It should also be noted that such salts are not only z. B. to adjust the viscosity, but can also be introduced by other active ingredients, in particular surfactants.

Other common ingredients for the agents according to the invention are:

• - Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copoly mers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
• - Anionic polymers, such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their Copolymers with acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their deri vate obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents, Polyoxycarboxylic acids, such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, as well as polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propio nat-crotonic acid copolymers,
• Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, Egg lecithin and cephaline,
• - Other perfume oils, especially those with the scent of a fruit, such as white of apple, pear, strawberry, peach, apricot, pineapple, banana, cherry, kiwi, Mango, coconut, almond, grapefruit, passion fruit, tangerine and melon, or the  Fragrance note of a luxury food, such as tobacco, cola, chewing gum, Guarana, chocolate, cocoa, vanilla, sarsaparilla, peppermint and rum. Dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glyce rin, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides,
• - dyes,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,
• - Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmid, tocopherol and plants extracts,
• - light stabilizers,
• - consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - Fats and waxes, such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, glyce ride and fatty alcohols,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninedicacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3 distearate,
• - direct dyes
• - So-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye prepro products,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, Cy steamin, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate,
• - blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air and
• - antioxidants,
• Bitter substances, such as denatonium benzoate,
• - preservatives.

The invention also relates to the use of an agent according to one of the types Proverbs 1 to 10 for cleaning skin and hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.  

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight.

1. Hair shampoos

¹ sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 70% active substance in water; INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (HENKEL)
² N, N-Dimethyl-N-coconut amidopropyl ammonium acetobetaine (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name: Cocamidopropyl betaine) (CLARIANT)
³ N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethylglycine sodium salt (approx. 50% active substance in water; INCI name: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) (WITCO)
⁴ neutralized esters of alkyl polyglucose with tartaric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name (provisional): sodium cocopolyglucose tartrate) (CESALPINIA)
⁵ neutralized esters of alkyl polyglucose with citric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name; (provisionally): sodium cocopolyglucose citrate) (CESALPINIA)
⁶ C _8-14 alkyl polyglucoside (approx. 52% active substance in water; INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (HENKEL)
⁷ C _12-14 fatty alcohol + 2.5 ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-2) (HENKEL)
⁸ coconut monoglyceride + 7.3 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (HENKEL)
^9- D-panthenyl alcohol (75% active substance in water) (HOFFMANN LA-ROCHE)
¹⁰ quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (AMERCHOL)
¹¹ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (approx. 9% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) (MERCK)
¹² terpolymer of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47) (CALGON)
¹³ benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate (2.5% active substance in water; INCI name: Aqua, Denatonium Benzoate) (MACFARLAN SMITH)
¹⁴ Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone monoethanolamine salt (INCI name: Piroctone Olamine) (CLARIANT)
¹⁵ wheat protein hydrolyzate (approx. 18% active substance; INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (DGF STOESS)
¹⁶ silicone emulsion (INCI name: Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzene sulfonate) (CALGON)

Claims (11)

1. Aqueous cosmetic agent for the treatment of hair or skin on a mild surfactant basis, characterized in that it contains:

• at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bicarbonic or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I) as surfactant,
  in the
  XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,
  YH or -OH is on the condition that when X is -CH ₂ COOR, Y is H,
  R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, on the condition that at least one of the Groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, and
• - At least one polymer (B) selected from cationic polymers and amphopolymer.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical Z of the compounds of the formula (I) is a polyglucose (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) monoalkyl ether with 1 to 6 glucose units. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxy-substi tuated bi- or tricarboxylic acid is selected from tartaric acid and citric acid.   4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polymer (B) is permanently cationic. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the polymer (B) is selected is made from cationic cellulose derivatives. 6. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a Hair cleaner, a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is at least contains another surfactant. 8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the further surfactant is selected is made from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it is a zwitterionic surfactant in combination with an anionic and / or a nonionic surfactant holds. 10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a contains organic thickener. 11. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for cleaning Skin or hair.