DE10034636A1 - Mild aqueous cosmetics for hair and skin contain hydroxy-substituted di- or tri-carboxylic acid esters and fatty acid partial glycerides - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous surfactive cosmetics for the hair or skin contain: (A) an OH-substituted di- or tri-carboxylic acid ester; and (B) a fatty acid partial glyceride which is a glycerol mono- or di-ester of an 8-24C fatty acid. Aqueous surfactive cosmetics for the hair or skin contain: (A) an OH-substituted di- or tri-carboxylic acid ester of formula (I) ; and (B) a fatty acid partial glyceride which is a glycerol mono- or di-ester of an 8-24C fatty acid. [Image] X : H or -CH2COOR; Y : H or OH and is H when X = -CH2COOR; R, R1> and R2>H, alkali(ne earth) metal cation, ammonium group, ammonium organic base cation or Z, with at least one being Z; and Z : group derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is an etherified 6-18C alkylpolysaccharide with 1-6 monomeric saccharide units and/or etherified aliphatic 6-16C hydroxyalkylpolyol with 2-16C OH groups.

Description

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic agents for treating the hair or the Skin formulated on a particularly mild surfactant base, as well as the Use of these agents for cleaning hair and skin.

The cleaning and care of skin and hair as well as the decorative design of the hairstyle are important components of human body care. They are correspondingly large Efforts to make both the hairdresser and the end user opti in every way to provide mated products. One focus of the development work is naturally with the actual product properties, be it the cleaning effect of a shampoo, shower bath or liquid soap, the care effect a hair treatment or skin cream, the coloring properties of a dye or a Tint, the quality of a perm or the hold of a setter or hair sprays. At the same time, attempts are also made to avoid possible undesirable side effects, such as it in certain consumer groups such as allergy sufferers or very sensitive unlikely persons can occur to an ever greater extent to prevent. This resulted in for example for the development of particularly skin-friendly surfactant systems for cleansing companions tel. In particular, there is a desire for products that are also used in the context of the application may accidentally come into contact with the eyes and mucous membranes, Formu to provide formulations based on very mild ingredients.

Such very mild means are not accepted by the consumer if other essential product properties are significantly worse or are considered to be worse will see. Many shampoos based on very mild surfactant mixtures foam Cases significantly less. A large amount of foam is very often used by the consumer equated with a good cleaning effect, so that he sees deficits here. Farther Awakening hair washed with such mildly formulated shampoos frequently a dull impression. The same applies to shower rooms, for example.

The task is therefore to provide means for the treatment of hair and skin, which is characterized on the one hand by a very mild surfactant base with particularly good eye and Mucous membrane compatibility and the natural moisture balance of the Do not negatively affect the skin, which means that the skin's elasticity is maintained and the Ability to reduce transepidermal water loss. Another aspect of the job consisted in providing funds which, on the other hand, were excellent Distinguish product performance with a fine-bubble and creamy foam.

It has now surprisingly been found that agents with certain surfactants in Combination with fatty acid partial glycerides are both extremely mild and excel have excellent product performance and are perceived as better from a sensory point of view.

The invention therefore relates to aqueous surfactant-containing cosmetic agents for the treatment of hair or skin, which contain:

• a) at least one ester (A) of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (I),
  in the
  X = H or a -CH ₂ COOR group,
  Y = H or -OH with the proviso that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ COOR,
  R, R ¹ and R ^2, independently of one another, denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an organic ammonium base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound belonging to the group of the etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) - alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the N-alkyl glucamides and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) - hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, with the proviso that at least one of Groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z and
• b) at least one partial glyceride (B) selected from the group of glycerol monoesters and glycerol diesters of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid.

The compounds of the formula (I) are, for example, from the European patent EP-B1-0 258 814 and from the articles by N. Burus, Drug Cosmet. Ind. 160 (3), 42 (1997) and T. Verzotti et al., Cosmetic News XX-112, 29 (1997). This state of However, technology does not provide any information about the agents according to the invention.

The preparation of the compounds according to formula (I) is described in detail in the European Patent EP-B1-0 258 814 described. Regarding the individual representatives who through the general formula (I) to be defined is expressly referring to the content of this euro European patent specification, in particular the passage from page 2, line 43 to page 5, line 56 Referenced. N-Alkylglucamides and their production are the subject of US 1,985,424, US 2,016,962, US 2,703,798 and WO 92/06984 and are there described in detail.

In the context of the present invention, R, R ¹ and R ² preferably represent alkali metal cations, in particular the sodium ion, alkaline earth metal cations, in particular the magnesium ion, and the ammonium ion.

The group Z of the compounds according to formula (I) is preferably the radical of a (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharide.

The group Z preferably contains glucose as the saccharide.

The alkyl groups used are in particular C ₆ -C ₁₆ -alkyl groups, the choice of unbranched saturated groups being preferred. However, the alkyl groups can also be mixtures that are kept in the processing of natural fats and oils. Mixtures consisting essentially of

• - C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• - C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups or
• - C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl groups

can be preferred according to the invention. A mixture of is very particularly preferred Alkyl groups such as those obtained from the processing of coconut oil.

Group Z contains 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units. According to a preferred Embodiment, the group Z contains 2 to 6 glucose units. But it can also be before be allowed to use groups Z with 1.2 to 3, in particular 1.3 to 2, glucose units. It has to be taken into account that in the synthesis always mixtures arise and these Numerical values from the stoichiometric ratio of the starting substances fatty alcohol and saccharide.

The compounds according to formula (I) are esters of citric acid, tartaric acid or Malic acid. Such compounds, which are esters of tartaric acid, are preferred according to the invention.

The commercial product sold by the Cesalpinia company under the names Eucarol® AGE-ET is marketed, has proven to be a particularly suitable representative of the compounds proven according to formula (I).

The agents according to the invention can of course also contain more than one surfactant (A) Formula (I) included.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of the formula (I) in Amounts from 2 to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts from 4 to 12% by weight and in particular in amounts of about 6 to 10% by weight, each based on the total Middle.

As a second obligatory component, the agents according to the invention contain a fatty acid partial glyceride (B) selected from the group of glycerol monoesters and glycerol diesters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids.

Compounds of this group support in combination with the surfactant (A) skin care properties of the agents according to the invention, in particular the Skin elasticity and moisture retention.

The fatty acid partial glycerides that make up component (B) are known substances that can be produced by relevant processes in preparative organic chemistry. Fatty acid partial glycerides are usually mixtures of mono- and diglycerides which are obtained by transesterification of the corresponding triglycerides with glycerol or by specific esterification of fatty acids. The removal of unreacted starting materials and the accumulation of monoglycerides in the mixtures usually takes place via molecular distillation. Among the fatty acids, according to the invention, unbranched, unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and among these in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, are preferred. According to the invention, the use of partial glycerides selected from the group of glycerol monoesters or technical mixtures which contain a high proportion of glycerol monoester is preferred. The use of glyceryl monooleate, which is commercially available, for example, under the names Monomuls® 90-O18 from Cognis and Tegin® O from Goldschmidt, has proven to be particularly advantageous. The use of Lamesoft® PO 65, a mixture of glycerol oleate with a high proportion of monoesters and alkyl polyglcosides, is particularly preferred.

The partial glycerides are in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.2-5% by weight, preferably 0.5-3% by weight and in particular 1-2% by weight.

The agents according to the invention contain water as a third mandatory component. The agent is preferably used for cleaning the skin and hair.

The agents according to the invention usually have a pH in the range from 2 to 9 on. Agents with pH values in the range from 3 to 7, in particular in the range from 4 to 6, can be preferred within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

To adjust this pH value, practically any can be used for cosmetic purposes Bare acid or base can be used. In the event that a Acid is used, it may be preferred to use an acid from the group of edible acids such as acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascoric acid bic acid and gluconic acid to use. The use of of citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the cosmetic agent is not subject to any restrictions. There come in principle all types of funds also available on the market are taken into account. That Agents according to the invention can, for example, be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic Base formulated and used as a leave-on or rinse-off product. as The form of application can be solutions, emulsions, lotions, creams, aerosols (e.g. Hairsprays), foams (e.g. styling foam or color foam) and gels (e.g. coloring gels) to serve. The agents according to the invention can, for example, be shower baths, Shampoos, liquid soaps, hair conditioners, hair treatments, permanent waving agents (waving lotions, Fixatives), hair dyes, hair tinting agents, hair setting agents, hair sprays, hair lotions, Trade hair tip fluids or hair dryer waves.

The mildness of the preparations according to the invention, however, is mainly used in agents Treatment of the hair and the skin, in particular for cleaning and care of the hair and the skin, to wear.

According to a first preferred embodiment, it is the fiction appropriate means around a hair cleaning agent (shampoo), a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. Shampoos and shower baths are preferred representatives of this range leadership style.

These agents can contain all of the other ingredients known for such preparations keep.

Other surfactants

The shampoos, shower baths, foam baths and liquid soaps according to the invention contain preferably at least one further cleaning component from the group of anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants is selected. According to a further embodiment, however, they can also be cationic surfactants Act. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the further cleaning agents Components in amounts of 5.0 to 40 wt .-%, in particular 5.0 to 20 wt .-% be moved on to the preparation.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the agents according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• - Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula R ³ -O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R ^{3 is} a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• - Amide ether carboxylates of the formula [R ⁴ -NH (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CH ₂ -COO] _m Z, in which R ^{4 represents} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 2 to 29 carbon atoms , n stands for integers from 1 to 10, m stands for the numbers 1 or 2 and Z stands for a cation from the group of alkali or alkaline earth metals,
• - acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Sulphosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R ⁵ -O (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R ^{5 is} a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• - Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• - Sulphonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 Represent carbon atoms, or their alkali salts
• - coconut monoglyceride sulphates.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ethers carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ethers groups in the molecule, as well as sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Nonionic surfactants contain z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol Propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and of alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group,
• - C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• - C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs as well
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated Castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ⁶ O- (S) _x . These support the mildness of the agents according to the invention, have a thickening effect and contribute to an improved solubilization of the fatty acid partial glycerides. They are characterized by the following parameters:

The alkyl radical R ⁶ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched ver. Primary linear aliphatic radicals which are methyl-branched in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl and 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one specific alkyl radical R ⁶ . Usually these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R ^{6 present are} mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective work-up of these compounds.

Alkyl polyglycosides in which R ⁶

• - Essentially from C ₈ - and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or
• - consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as the sugar building block S. Usually sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding ones are used Oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, and galac tose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose and arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 Sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Quite Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are particularly preferred.

In addition to their surfactant effect, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to fix to improve the fragrance components on the hair. The specialist will be there for the case that an effect of the perfume oil that goes beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair is desired, preferably to this class of substances as a further ingredient resort to the preparations according to the invention.

The alkoxylated homologues of said alkyl polyglycosides can fiction are used accordingly. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene contain oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be act uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in manufacturing of these substances from native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Mixtures of substances with different alkyls depending on the respective raw material chain lengths.

In the case of surfactants, the addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide to fat Alcohols or derivatives of these addition products can represent both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrowed homolo gene distribution can be used. Under "normal" homolog distribution, Understood mixtures of homologues that one in the implementation of fatty alcohol and Alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates obtained as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are on the other hand obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carbon acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts will. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be be preferable.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as co-surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO ^(-) or —SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylanzimo niumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate-3-carboxyl, and 2-alkyl-alkyl 3-hydroxyethylimidazoline, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are also particularly suitable as co-surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 bis 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylamino propionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acyl sarcosine.

Examples of those which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Cationic surfactants are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Are preferred Ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammo nium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Furthermore, they can do very well biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as those under the Dialkylammonium methosulfate and methyl sold under trademarks Stepantex® hydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series, can be used as cationic surfactants. Further invention According to usable cationic surfactants are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.

Preparations of particularly great mildness are obtained when, in addition to the Ten siden (A) a zwitterionic surfactant, in particular of the betaine type, and a Alkyl polyglycoside is used.

A combination consisting of

• - Surfactants (A) according to formula (I),
• - Fatty acid partial glycerides (B)
• - zwitterionic surfactants, especially of the betaine type,
• - Anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salt, and
• - nonionic surfactants, especially of the alkyl glycoside type,

has proven to be extremely suitable according to the invention.

Polymers

According to a further preferred embodiment, contain the invention Means additionally at least one cationic polymer and / or an amphopolymer for Improvement of skin feel and conditioning. These are in the Agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-3% by weight, preferably 0.1-2% by weight and in particular 0.2-1% by weight based on the total preparation contain.

Among the cationic polymers, the permanent cationic polymers are ahead admitted. According to the invention, such polymers are referred to as "permanently cationic" which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are in usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of a Ammonium group.

Preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as they are under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR® are commercially available. The compounds Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quaternized Cellulose derivatives.
• - Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as those commercially available available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized Trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone will), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; di quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80),
• - Cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular those under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar and Jaguar® products sold,
• - Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The ones under the names Merquat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (Di methyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available Products are examples of such cationic polymers.
• - Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dial kylaminoacrylates and methacrylates, such as with diethyl sulfate quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers. Such Compounds are under the names Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755 available in the stores.
• - Vinylpyrrolidone methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers, as described under the Name Luviquat® are offered.
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol

as well as those under the designations

• - Polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• - Polyquaternium 27

known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are quaternized cellulose derivatives as well as polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers. Cationic Cellulose derivatives, especially the commercial product Polymer® JR 400, are whole particularly preferred cationic polymers.

Amphopolymers are also suitable as polymers. The generic term amphopolymers are amphoteric polymers, ie polymers that contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers that contain quaternary ammonium groups in the molecule and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and those polymers summarized which contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. Such compounds are commercially available under the name Amphomer® or Merquat®2001 N, for example.

Nourishing ingredients (vitamins and vitamin derivatives)

Another preferred embodiment is characterized in that in addition at least one caring agent selected from the group of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives are included. These are in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-5% by weight and in particular 0.5-1% by weight based on the total composition contain. According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamins are provided stages which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred.

The group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. According to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components.

The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, inter alia.

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - vitamin B ₃ . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) are often listed under this designation, among which nicotinic acid amide is particularly preferred according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, preference is given to using panthenol. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Also suitable according to the invention are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its esters, especially ascorbic palmitate, as well as vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α- Tocopherol) and its esters, especially vitamin E acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and - Succinate.

Vitamin F.

The term "vitamin F" usually includes essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid understood.

Vitamin H.

The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa is used as vitamin H hydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid referred to, but for which meanwhile the common name biotin prevailed.

Protein hydrolyzates

The agents according to the invention preferably also contain at least one Protein hydrolyzate as a further conditioning component, which is in an amount of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight on the overall composition is included. Protein hydrolysates are used to compensate used in the internal structure of skin and hair. These are product mixtures, the degradation of proteins (proteins) catalyzed by acidic, basic or enzymatic can be obtained. They can be of vegetable or animal origin, whereby those of vegetable origin are preferred according to the invention.

Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and Milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such Products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German gelatine Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

The vegetable protein hydrolyzates include, for example, soy, almond, rice, Pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are for example under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMinG® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda) available.

It is also possible to use derivatives of protein hydrolyzates, for example in Form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are for example under the names Lamepon® (Cognis), Gluadin® (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin® (Croda) or Crotein® (Croda).

Plant extracts

In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains at least one plant extract. This often increases the others Active ingredient properties of the agent. According to the invention, the plant extracts can both can be used in pure as well as in diluted form. The agents according to the invention can also contain mixtures of several different plant extracts. the Plant extracts are used in an amount of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.1-3% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight of active substance based on the Total composition included.

Usually these extracts are made by extracting the whole plant. It however, in individual cases it may also be preferred to use the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or to produce leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts that can be used according to the invention, in particular the extracts noted in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guide to the content Declaration of substances for cosmetic products, issued by the body care industry association and detergent e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, at the beginning of the table.

According to the invention, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, Witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, Birch, mallow, cuckoo-herb, quendel, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, pickaxe, Coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

Water, Al alcohols and their mixtures are used. Among the alcohols are there lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in Mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

Thickener

The agents according to the invention preferably also contain at least one organic Thickener. Such thickeners are, for example, thickeners such as Agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers, gelatine, pectins and / or xanthan gum Gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially those with a limited homologue ratio division, for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon®F (Henkel) are on the market, alkoxylated methyl glucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters such as commercially available product Antil® 141 (Goldschmidt) can be preferred organic thickeners.

Other optional components

Silicone oils and silicone gums suitable as conditioning agents are in particular Dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methyl phenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such Silicones are those from Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 as well as the commercial product Fancorsil® LIM-1. A suitable one anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Corning®1784.

Alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines like that under the name Tego Amid®S 18 available stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, stand out next to one good conditioning effect, especially due to their good biodegradability.

Quaternary ester compounds, so-called, are also very readily biodegradable "Esterquats", such as the dialkyl ammoni sold under the trademark Stepantex® ummethosulfate as well as the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series.

Preferred vegetable oils and waxes as conditioning agents are jojoba oil, Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil. Jojoba oil and Orange oils are particularly preferred.

In particular for the formulation of very mild preparations, it has continued to be the case proved to be beneficial when the amount of dissolved inorganic salts is less than 2 wt .-%, in particular less than 0.5 wt .-% is limited. It is also about note that such salts not only z. B. be added to adjust the viscosity, but can also be introduced by other active ingredients, in particular surfactants.

Other common ingredients for the agents according to the invention are:

• - nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate Copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
• - anionic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their derivatives obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents obtained, polyoxycarboxylic acids, such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarbon acids and their salts, as well as polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with Esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate Crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers,
• - structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,
• - Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• - other perfume oils, in particular those with the scent of a fruit, such as for example apple, pear, strawberry, peach, apricot, pineapple, banana, Cherry, kiwi, mango, coconut, almond, grapefruit, passion fruit, tangerine and Melon, or the scent of a luxury item, such as tobacco, Cola, chewing gum, guarana, chocolate, cocoa, vanilla, sarsaparilla, pepper mint and rum.
• - dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, Glycerine, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides, Dyes,
• - Anti-dandruff ingredients such as Climbazole, Piroctone Olamine and Zinc Omadine,
• - Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmid, tocopherol and Plant extracts,
• - light stabilizers,
• - Consistency factors such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - Fats and waxes, such as whale rat, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, Glycerides and fatty alcohols,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides,
• - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerine, propylene glycol monoethyl ethers, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• - opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• - Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3 distearate,
• - substantive dyes,
• - So-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dyes preliminary products,
• - reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, Cysteamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate,
• - Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air as well
• - antioxidants,
• - bitter substances, such as denatonium benzoate,
• - preservatives.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples according to the invention

The quantitative data in the following examples relate to% by weight of the commercial substances in the overall composition.

attachment

1) Aloe Barbadensis, extract
INCI: Aloe Barbadensis, dry content 3-5%
Manufacturer: Cosmetochem
2) Antil® 141 L
INCI: PPG, PEG-55 Glycoldioleate; 78-82% active ingredient
Manufacturer: Tego Cosmetics (Goldschmidt)
3) Cetiol®HE
INCI: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH (Henkel)
4) Cremophor® RH 455
INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Propylene Glycol; approx. 90% active substance in water / propylene glycol
Manufacturer: BASF
5) Eucarol® AGE-EC
INCI: Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate (provisional); approx. 30% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cesalpinia (Lamberti)
6) Eucarol® AGE-ET
INCI: Sodium Cocopolyglucose Tartrate (provisional); approx. 30% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cesalpinia (Lamberti)
7) Euperlan® PK 3000
INCI: Aqua (water), Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid; approx. 40% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cognis Germany GmbH
8) Glucamate® DOE 120
INCI: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
Manufacturer: Amerchol (Nordmann, Rassmann)
9) Gluadin W20
INCI: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben approx. 20% active ingredient in water
Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH (Grünau)
10) Gluadin® WQ
INCI: Aqua (water), Laurdimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben approx. 31% active ingredient in water
Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH (Grünau)
11) Jaguar® Excel
Guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
Manufacturer: Rhodia
12) Lamesoft® PO 65
INCI: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (water); approx. 65% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH (Henkel)
13) Merquat® 550
INCI: Polyquaternium-7
Manufacturer: Chemviron (Mobiloil)
14) Plantacare® 818
INCI: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua (water); approx. 52% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH (Henkel)
15) D-panthenol
D-panthenyl alcohol; approx. 75% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Hoffmann La Roche
16) Polymer JR® 400
INCI: Polyquaternium-10
Manufacturer: Amerchol (Nordmann, Rassmann)
17) Rewoteric® AM2 CNM
INCI: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate; approx. 50% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Goldschmidt-Rewo
18) Tego Betain® F50
INCI: Aqua (water), Cocamidopropyl Betaine; approx. 38% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Tego Cosmetics (Goldschmidt)
19) Tegin® O
INCI: Glyceryl Oleate
Manufacturer: Tego Cosmetics (Goldschmidt)
20) Texapon® K14 S special
INCI: Sodium Myreth Sulfate; approx. 70% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cognis Deutschland GmbH (Henkel)
21) Texapon® N 70
INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate; approx. 70% active substance in water
Manufacturer: Cognis France SA (Sidobre Sinnova)

Claims (13)

1. Aqueous surfactant-containing cosmetic agent for the treatment of hair or skin, characterized in that it contains:

• a) at least one ester (A) of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (I),
  in the
  X = H or a -CH ₂ COOR group,
  Y = H or -OH with the proviso that Y = H when X = -CH ₂ COOR,
  R, R ¹ and R ^2, independently of one another, denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an organic ammonium base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound belonging to the group of the etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) - alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a residue Z and
• b) at least one fatty acid partial glyceride (B) selected from the group of glycerol monoesters and the glycerol diesters of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid.

2. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical Z of the compounds according to formula (I) is a polyglucose (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) monoalkyl ether radical having 1 to 6 glucose units. 3. Means according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ester (A) as hydroxy-substituted dicarboxylic acid contains tartaric acid. 4. Means according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Partial glycerides (B) are selected from the group of glycerol monoesters. 5. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in addition at least one further surfactant selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants is included. 6. Agent according to claim 5, characterized in that at least one nonionic surfactant Alkyl polyglycoside is included. 7. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that in addition at least one polymer selected from the group of the cationic and / or the Amphopolymers is included. 8. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that in addition at least one caring agent selected from the group of vitamins, Provitamins, vitamin precursors and their derivatives are included. 9. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that in addition at least one protein hydrolyzate is included. 10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that in addition at least one plant extract is included. 11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is additionally contains at least one organic thickener. 12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a hair cleanser, shower gel, bubble bath, or liquid soap acts. 13. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for cleaning Skin or hair.