DE19750421A1 - Sunflower wax incorporated into a variety of cosmetic preparations for human hair - Google Patents

Abstract

Sunflower wax is incorporated in hair cosmetic preparations, representing between 0.05-10 wt.% of the finished product. The sunflower wax preferably contains 6-99.9 wt.% even-numbered wax esters with a C-chain distribution of from C-42 to C-50, and preferably has an iodine count of less than 10.

Description

The invention relates to the use of sunflower wax for the production of Hair treatment products and a method for treating hair.

The human hair is today in many ways with hair cosmetic accessories horse riding. This includes, for example, cleaning the hair with shampoos and shower preparations and the bleaching, coloring and shaping of hair with Wellmit agents, tinting agents and styling preparations. As a result of certain hair treatments can there is an undesirable impairment of the hair structure. This impairment conditions show u. a. in poor wet and dry combability, a ver increased electrostatic charge, increased brittleness, reduced maximum tear strength and elongation at break of the hair as well as a deteriorated external appearance of the Hairstyle.

There has been no shortage of attempts to combat these abuses. Here u. a. developed special after-treatment agents, which are particularly used to improve the Structure and properties of damaged hair, d. H. to restore the physi serve the calic properties of healthy hair. Furthermore, drug combinations NEN found their incorporation into known hair treatment agents the hair mentioned prevent damage to the greatest extent possible, or in another way Improved appearance of the treated hair.  

There is still a need for hair cosmetic preparations that are characterized by a Reduce unwanted hair impairment and equalize have further positive effects in terms of nursing effects.

It has now been found that the use of sunflower waxes in Haarbe means leads to surprisingly good results. Especially with regard to the reduction in the formation of split ends showed the use of the sun according to the invention flower waxes good results. At the same time when using sunflowers wax in hair treatment agents significantly improves wet and dry combability as well as the shine of the hair increases.

The invention relates to the use of sunflower waxes for the production of hair treatment products.

There is no general definition of what a wax is. Usually be are waxes from complex mixtures. According to a definition by the DGF (Deutsche Society for Fat Research) are waxes about their physicochemical properties defined (Ullmann, 28, S 105 (1996)). An easy way to differentiate waxes that is based on the origin; So there are natural waxes, which in turn are plant-based and animal waxes, as well as synthetic waxes.

DE 42 06 154 relates, for example, to cosmetic compositions containing Apple wax. Skin care products containing apple wax are characterized by a be special skin protection effect, while hair treatment a good wet and Dry combability and give the hair a good grip and well-groomed appearance to lend.

In addition to the apple waxes already mentioned, the use is also from the literature other waxes, known in cosmetic products. Best known since ancient times is beeswax, but its availability is limited. Candelilla and Carnauba Wax is commercially available and is mainly used in lipsticks. However, they are hard and brittle, have a high melting point and are bad Chen cosmetic products only poorly emulsifiable (SÖFW, 123, pp. 658ff (1997)).  

For the purposes of the present invention, sunflower wax means waxes hen that arise in the production of sunflower oil. It is about Grow from the shell of the sunflower seeds. When pressing the whole cores too Sunflower oil is produced with the oil as a minor component of the waxes. These waxes must then be separated from the oil in an additional procedure. Usual The waxes thus obtained as a secondary component are returned to the press back stood up, while the oil is the actual valuable product. The according to the Waxes obtained by conventional methods known from the literature are suitable for the purpose use according to the invention. Those to be used according to the invention are preferably used Waxes as described in the literature Oil & Fats International 10, p. 19ff (1994), ge won. The sunflower waxes obtained in this way can still contain up to 85% by weight of trigly ceride, up to 4% by weight of free fatty acids and up to 5% by weight of mono- and diglycerides included, d. H. the proportion of the actual wax is at least 6% by weight. In which Wax is a wax ester, i. H. Long chain fatty acid esters with long chain Fatty alcohols (Fette Seifen Abstrichmittel, 70, p. 234ff (1968)). Preferred in the sense of The present invention uses sunflower waxes with a proportion of free fatty acid ren from 0.1 to 30, in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, a proportion of mono and diglyceri from 0 to 20, in particular 0 to 2% by weight and a triglyceride content of 0 up to 70, in particular 0 to 50% by weight and a proportion of wax esters from 5 to 99.9, in particular 46 to 99.9% by weight. Almost pure Son are particularly preferred nenflower wax esters, containing 99.9% by weight of wax esters and 0.1% by weight of free fatty acid ren. The wax esters to be used according to the invention preferably have a C-ket length of 42 to 50 carbon atoms. Sunflower waxes are particularly preferred with an iodine number of less than 10, in particular less than 5, used.

In the hair treatment compositions in which the sunflower waxes according to the invention can be used, it can be the hair hand known from the market act with the usual ingredients. Sunflower wax can do that finished formulations preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10, in particular 0.5 to 2 % By weight of active substance (AS) are added. Active substance (AS) refers to the Relation to sunflower wax in the present application on the wax ester.  

The other constituents of the hair treatment compositions used according to the invention are depending on the type of hair treatment product.

In principle, however, the formulations used according to the invention include all known ten types of hair treatment agents such. B. hair shampoos, hair rinses, hair cones ditioning agents, hair treatments, hair setting agents, hair sprays, blow dryers, permanent waving agents and Hair dye. Hair treatments and hair conditioning agents, in particular those agents which applied to hair in the morning to keep it going throughout the day to give a certain firming, as well as hair shampoos represent preferred forms of agents according to the invention.

Depending on the type of hair treatment agent, the accessories according to the invention contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliary substances known in such agents. In In many cases, the preparations contain at least one surfactant, in principle both anionic as well as zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, it has proven advantageous to remove the surfactants select the nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a poly lyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

• - Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened rizi nut oil,
• - Addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters
• - Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides.

The alkylene oxide addition products have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 4 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide each Mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid has been proven. Preparations with excellent properties ten are also obtained if they are fatty acid esters of nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylated glycerin.

In a further embodiment, it may be preferred to select alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) _x as nonionic surfactants. These connections are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and ver be branches. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphati in the 2-position are preferred leftovers. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds predominate genes with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only determine one ten alkyl radical R contain. Usually, these connections are based on natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case lie as alkyl residues R mixtures according to the starting compounds or according to each processing these connections.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• essentially from C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• essentially from C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z. Usually sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding Oligosaccharides used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose and galac  tose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 Sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. All alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are particularly preferred.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention according to be used. These homologues can average up to 10 ethylene contain oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and aminonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Monosulfonic succinate and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,  
• - Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• - Sulphated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ether according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds gene according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 Represent carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ethers carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups pen in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 C- Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) - or SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2 - Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Coc amidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _11-18 acylsarcosine.

Examples of the katio which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention African surfactants are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Are preferred Ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammoni umchloride and trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammoni umchloride.

Also suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils such as those in the Commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Coming; a stabilized trim thylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino modified silicone, also called amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer ler: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil-Quat 3270 and 3272 (Manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).

Alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines like the one under the name Tego Amid®S 18 available stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, stand out next to one good conditioning effect especially due to its good biodegradability.

Quaternary ester compounds are also very readily biodegradable "Esterquats", such as the products Dehyquart® AU-46, Dehyquart®F-30 and Dehyquart®F-  75 and the methylhydroxyalkyldial sold under the trademark Stepantex® koyloxyalkyl ammonium methosulfates.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can in each case be act uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in the manufacture these substances from natural vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Mixtures of substances with different alkyl kets depending on the respective raw material ten lengths.

In the case of surfactants, the addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide Representing fatty alcohols or derivatives of these adducts, both Pro products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrowed Homolog distribution can be used. Under "normal" homolog distribution understood mixtures of homologues that are used in the implementation of fatty alcohols hol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or Alkali metal alcoholates obtained as catalysts. Narrow homolog distributions who on the other hand, if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates as catalysts ver be applied. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

The surfactants in the agents according to the invention are usually in amounts of 0.1 to 65% by weight, preferably in amounts of 2 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably in Amounts of 8 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Are non-ionic surfactants preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 5% by weight. %, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the accessories according to the invention contain a hair-conditioning agent. Preferred hair con ditioning agents can be the cationic surfactants already listed above.

Another preferred group of hair conditioning agents are siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Are suitable  both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes, such as non-volatile siloxanes Compounds are understood. Their boiling point at normal pressure above 200 ° C. lies. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsi loxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated Polydialkylsiloxane and Polydialkylsiloxane, the amine and / or hydroxy groups contain.

Another group of hair conditioning agents are cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention contain within the bottom cationic groups. These groups can be part of the polymer chain; she can also be located in side chains, which have intermediate links with a main chain are connected. Common cationic groups contain quaternary nitrogen or Phosphorus atoms. Groups with quaternary nitrogen atoms are preferred. The quartary Ren nitrogen atoms can be 4 different or z. T. same substitutes wear, as well as be part of a ring system. Preferred cationic groups are Ammonium and imidazolinium groups.

A number of cationic polymers suitable for hair care are known to the person skilled in the art known and available as commercial products.

Examples of such polymers are:

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat® and Poly mer JR® are commercially available. The compounds Celquat H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
• - Quaternized guar derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Cosmedia Guar® and Jaguar®. Preferred guar derivatives are for example Cosmedia Guar® C-261 and Jaguar ® ^R C 13-S.
• - Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylic lat and methacrylate, such as vinyl pyrrole quaternized with diethyl sulfate  don-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers and vinylpyrrolidone methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers. Such connections are under the names Gafquat®734, Gafquat®755 and Gafquat®HS100 in trade true.
• - Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with vinyl imidazolium methochloride, such as un under the name Luviquat®.
• - Polymer Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and Ami that of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the names Merquat®100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammoni umchloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers.
• - Cationically derivatized silicone oils, such as those commercially available Products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodi methicon), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino modified Silicon, which is also called Amodimethicone), SM-2059 (Manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 7232 (manufacturer Steller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
• - Chitosan and its derivatives.

Finally, phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and Ke phaline can be used as hair conditioning agents.

The hair-conditioning active ingredients are preferred in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight pulled on the entire preparation, included.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention can in addition to those mentioned above nonionic polymers, if desired, also other nonionic polymers contain.  

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those under the trademark Chen Luviskol® (BASF) are sold. Luviskol®VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonioni cal polymers.
• - Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hy droxypropyl cellulose, as they are for example under the trademark Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON) are sold.
• - Shellac
• - Polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as those under the name Luviskol® (BASF) are sold.

Such other nonionic polymers are usually compared to the polymers ren used with the units of formula (I) in minor amounts. An out The only form are those polymers that simultaneously function as a thickener use to adjust the viscosity.

Another optional component of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is represented by anionic polymers, of which a large number of commercial products are known to the person skilled in the art. Examples are:

• - Copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid or their esters with C _10-30 alkyl acrylates, such as those sold under the name Pemulen®, for example.
  Polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers. Compounds of this type are commercially available under the brand names Re syn® (NATIONAL STARCH), Luviset® (BASF) and Gafset® (GAF); the products Luviset®CA-66 and Luviset®CAP can be preferred.
• - Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, available for example under the goods logo Luviflex® (BASF). A preferred polymer is under the designation Luviflex® VBM-3 5 (BASF) available vinyl pyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
• - Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers, for example under the name Ultrahold® strong (BASF) are sold, as well as methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate butyl acrylate terpolymer, which is marketed under the name Luvi mer®100P (BASF) are sold.

Further components of the agents according to the invention can be, for example:

• - structurants such as maleic acid,
• Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and xanthan gum,
• - perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,
• - dyes,
• - anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol,
• - other substances for adjusting the pH value,
• - Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins,
• - light stabilizers,
• - consistency enhancers such as polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - Other fats and waxes, such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and Fatty alcohols,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, EDETA, NTA and phosphonic acids,  
• - Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates Hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary Phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex,
• - pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,
• - blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air and
• - antioxidants,
• direct dyes,
• - so-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye precursors,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, Cy steamin, thio malic acid and 2-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - Oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate.

The agents that can be used according to the invention can be used as a solution, lotion, emulsion, mi kroemulsion, cream or gel. The formulation as a solution, emulsion or microemulsion with a water content of 50 to 90 wt .-%, based on the ge whole means, may be preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents can be in the form of foam aerosols are made up. Both the formulation is liquefied th gas as a blowing agent as well as in the form of so-called pump sprays, in which the pressure required for spraying is built up by mechanical pumping. nitrogen Air, carbon dioxide, propane, butane, isobutane, pentane and dimethyl ether are preferred Propellant. Although fluorochlorinated and chlorinated hydrocarbons are achieved in terms of aerosol properties are excellent propellants, so their use as Blowing agents in the agents according to the invention due to the known ozone problem less preferred.

Another object of the present invention relates to a method for treatment of hair in which a hair treatment composition containing sunflower wax is applied to the Hair is applied and rinsed out after a contact time.  

The invention also relates to a method for treating hair, in which the hair treatment composition containing sunflower wax is applied to the hair and stays there.

The use according to the invention is not limited to hair or hair treatment agents limited in the narrow sense, but includes all keratin fibers, such as furs, wool, Feathers and especially human hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples Recipe composition

A 1 5% by weight sunflower wax cream was used for this purpose. The sunflower wax was produced according to methods known from the prior art and tested in the following products:

• 1. Commercial rinse pack
• 2. Commercial instant cure (leave on)
• 3. Commercial Kur shampoo 4. Texapon® NSO solution (14%, pH 6.5)
  The hair care products were tested in the normal state and with the addition of 1% by weight of AS sunflower wax.
• 5. Commercial shampoo with fruit waxes
  Recipes 1 to 4 represent examples according to the invention, with the addition of 1% by weight of AS sunflower wax, while recipes 1 to 4 without sunflower wax and recipe 5 serve as comparative examples.

1. Protection against split ends

Pretreatment of hair: Asian strands of hair (Alkinco 6610) were initially used Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (10% by weight solution in water) in an ultrasonic bath for 15 min cleans, washed for 5 min, dried and in the moist state with 1 to 1.5 g each coated recipes to be tested.

After 5 minutes, the strands were washed out again for 5 minutes and over a warm air oven bladder dried.  

This shampooing, washing and treatment was then carried out with the above-mentioned Recipe repeated 5 times, but when shampooing the ultrasonic bath was canceled and the treatment time was only 10 min.

After the treatments, the tresses were in the climatic room at 23 ° C and 40% air moisture conditioned.

The tresses of hair were combed in the split ends after the pretreatment. With this Apparatus is a rotating plastic cylinder on which two combs are attached with fingers made of double-sided emery paper (grain 240). Before every measurement solution to guarantee constant surface roughness, new emery combs inserted and the cylinder cleaned with ethanol. The strands are in one rotating tensioner attached so that the hair during combing (splicing ßens) rotate slowly around its longitudinal axis.

For the evaluation of the split ends, a procedure was developed that is based on Weighing of the hair tips torn off during the splicing process (up to a length of 3 cm). The split ends produced can be calculated from their weight.

Table 1

Protection against split ends after 3000 combs * (triple determination)

2. Wet combability

For the measurement of wet combability (NK) the acid cleaned hair (European nice hair, type 6634 from Alkinco, for the NK: 12cm long, 1g heavy) before the zero measurement medium-blonded and additionally etched immediately before the NK measurement. After exposure to the formulation (5 minutes, 1 g of product per 1 g of hair), 1 l of Was water (38 ° C) rinsed for one minute per strand (all except the leave-on product). Every measurement was done with 20 strands of hair.

The results of the wet combing work measurements are shown in Table 2.  

Table 2

Wet combing

In relation to wet combing, the addition of Sunflower wax (1 wt.% AS) achieved a significant improvement in wet combability (between 2 and 76%).

3. Dry combability

To determine dry combability (FK), the acid-cleaned hair (eu Roman hair, type 6634 from Alkinco for the TK: 15cm long, 2g heavy) in front of the Zero measurement medium-blonde.

After exposure to the formulation (5 minutes, 1g product per 1g hair) the hair became rinsed with 1 liter of water (38 ° C) for one strand per strand (all except the leave-on product) and then dried in a warm air stream for approx. 2 hours.

The measurements of the electrostatic charge and the dry combing work were carried out a set climate of 20% relative humidity (RH) and 30 ° C. The Conditioning of the strands of hair was 12 hours.

For the dry combing work, 10 combs were carried out per strand, and the needed work measured. Each measurement was made with 20 strands of hair.

The results of dry combability are shown in Table 3.  

The electrostatic charge was approved in parallel with the dry combing work the electrostatic charge examined. The actual measurement took place over the Load tapping on a double Faraday cage after performing the 10 combs.

The measurement data of the electrostatic charge are listed in Table 4.  

Table 3

Dry combing work (with approval of electrostatic charging)

Table 4

Electrostatic charge 20% r. F.

With regard to dry combing, sunflower wax leads to an increase in Combing resistance to the "original" recipes. The hairstyle hold will supported by the sunflower wax.

The high residual dry combability of the "nor paint "recipe reduced by the sunflower wax. The hairstyle styling is white optimally guaranteed (comparable to the comparative product with fruit waxes).

Regarding electrostatics, the addition of the recipe shows with the sunflower wax the respective hair care products a reduction in electrostatics. The "fly-away-ef fect "of the hair is reduced.

4. Goniophotometric gloss measurements

The strands of Euro natural hair used for the gloss measurement ("adhesive wicks tight", the Kerling, 22 cm long, 1.5 cm wide, approx. 2 g in weight) were first used with a 14 wt .-% Texapon® NSO solution (pH 6.5) washed (15 minutes) and then rinsed with tap water.

After that, the hair was finished with an even film of fatty acid to reduce gloss acts by first tressing the hair in about 1 liter of a 1% solution for 20 minutes solution of a commercial core soap (DALLI-Werke, 52220 Stolberg, UBA02500166,  Care core soap made from pure vegetable oil, unscented, dissolved in demin. Water) at 45 ° C and then rinsed twice in 2 liters of demineralized water. The tresses of hair were then treated under conditioned conditions (22 ° C, 55% RH). dried flat lying overnight.

The following day, the pretreated hair tresses (5 hair tresses / test product) in the Measure the gloss apparatus (this gives certain values as pixels, which is why without unit [o.E.] are specified).

This was followed by product treatment for the 2g test product / hair tress brought and after 5 minutes of exposure, for 1 minute with tap water was After that, the strand of hair became flat again under conditioned conditions dried flat.

After the drying and conditioning phase, a gloss measurement was carried out again guided.

Each hair tress was both in the untreated (= pretreated with core soap) and in the treated state (= after treatment with the test product) each 5 × with respect to the Measure gloss. This results in a number of 50 measurements per knitting effect.

To assess the gloss behavior, the five series of measurements per hair tress were combined into one Summarized mean value, so that finally 10 mean value measurement series per proof of action hen (5 × untreated versus 5 × treated) were compared.

For the statistical evaluation, the test statistics of a Student's t-test (dependent gig, two-sided test, paired) applied. The maxima of the 10th Average measurement series used and averaged to a before and after value.

The mean differences between the before / after measurements see Table 5.  

Table 5

Shine intensity change to untreated hair (treated with curd soap)

Claims (10)

1. Use of sunflower wax for the production of hair treatment agents. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the Sonnenblu Adds wax to commercially available hair treatment products. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that 0.05 to 10th Wt .-% active substance uses sunflower wax. 4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that one Sunflower wax, which contains 6 to 99.9% by weight even-numbered wax esters of a C- Chain distribution from C-42 to C-50 contains. 5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Sunflower wax has an iodine number less than 10. 6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that one Sunflower wax to prevent split ends. 7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that one Sunflower wax is used to improve wet and dry combability. 8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that one Sunflower wax is used to improve the shine of the hair. 9. A method of treating hair, characterized in that a preparation device according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the hair and after a Exposure time is rinsed out again.   10. A method of treating hair, characterized in that a preparation tion according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the hair and ver there remains.