PT100451A - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF A GEL CONTAINING CARBOXYMETHYLTETIN - Google Patents

Description

64,673 6

" COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM BE A BEL CONTAINING CARBOXIMETHYLGETINE "

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions in aqueous gel form which provide improved skin feel and are beneficial in the treatment of the skin, reduced tackiness and residual characteristics, likewise with excellent visual clarity, humidification, penetration characteristics in pores and absorption. 15

Mod. 71 -20,000 ex. - 90/08

Background of the Invention The skin consists of several layers of cells that coat and protect the fibrous proteins of collagen and keratin that form the skeleton of its structure. It should be noted that the outermost of these layers, designated the stratum corneum, is composed of bundles of 250 A proteins surrounded by 80 A thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane by destroying its integrity by delipidation (i.e., removal of the lipid stratum corneum). This destruction of the topography of the skin surface causes a harsh sensation and may eventually allow the surfactant or the solvent to interact with the keratin, causing irritation.

Presently, it is recognized that maintaining the appropriate water gradient through the stratum corneum is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes regarded as the plasticizer of 35

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Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 20 25 30 stratum cornsum, comes from the interior of the body. • If the humidity is very low, as in a cold climate, the stratum corneum does not remain in the outer layers of the stratum corneum enough water to adequately plasticize the tissue; and the skin starts to flake out becoming itchy. When there is an inadequate amount of water through the stratum corneum the permeability. 'of the skin also decreases. On the other hand, the excess water in the outer part of the pea causes the stratum corneum to eventually absorb / adsorb five times its weight in bound water. This swells and nails the skin resulting in increased skin permeability to water and other polar molecules approximately two to several times. The hair is formed by many of the constituents of the stratum corneum. The outermost cell region forms a rather thick, chemically resistant, protective coating that surrounds the fibers of the hair, called the cuticle. The cuticle surface is covered by a thin layer, called the epicutícula, which is thought to contain lipids and proteins. The cuticle surrounds the cortex cells that make up the bulk of the fibrous mass. The keratinization occurs bo cortéx to confer stability to the hair structure. Thus, there is a need for compositions which assist the stratum corneum and hair cuticle to maintain optimum performance of their barrier and water retention functions even though the skin and hair may undergo permissive interactions during washing, work and play. Conventional cosmetic compositions in cream and lotion as described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. I, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd Edition, Volume 7, are known by providing various degrees of emolliation, barrier and O 3 g benefits.

Mod. 71 - 20.OCO ex. - 90108 20 25 30 64.673 water retention), however, they may also suffer serious objections in terms of the sensation they cause on the skin (that is, they often cause a very oily touch on the skin), as well as having weak characteristics of penetration into the pores, absorption and residue. In the case of the compositions for the treatment of hair can also be challenged by the reappearance of the dirt.

Accordingly, the present invention provides cosmetic skin and hair treatment compositions which provide improved characteristics of absorption, residue, tackiness, skin feel and skin treatment without detriment to the effectiveness of the humidification in the short or long term.

Summary of the Invention

According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a skin or hair treatment composition in the aqueous form, characterized in that it comprises (a) from about 0.001% to about 0.5% by weight weight of carboxymethylchitine, (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble poly (methacrylate) glycerol lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, (C) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent. Compositions according to this aspect of the invention contain all three essential ingredients as well as various optional components as indicated below. All levels and ratios are presented in terms of the total weight of the composition, unless it is

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Mod. 71-20,000 ex. A first essential ingredient is carboxymethylchitine. Chitin is a polysaccharide which is present in lobster and crab teguments and is a mucopolysaccharide of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine with a binder (1-4). The carboxymethylchitine is prepared by treatment of the purified chitin material with a base and then with monochloroacetic acid. It is commercially available as a dilute aqueous solution (about 0.1% to 0.5% by weight) under the name Chitin Liquid by A & In the present compositions, the carboxymethyl chitin is present at a level of from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05% more preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of the composition. A second essential ingredient is a poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricant. This should generally have a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20% C , Brcokfield RVT) less than 4 Pa.s (4000 cps), preferably less than about 1 Pa.s (1000 cps), and more preferably less than about 500 cps (0.5 Pa) In addition, the poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricant also preferably has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of about 0.2% (20 °) to about 5,000 cps (Brookfield RVT, 2020, more preferably from about 0.5 (500) to about 2 Pa.s (2000 cps) and especially from about 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa.s (<900 cps). Poly (glyceryl methacrylate) lubricants which may be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark Lubra-gel (Trade Mark) in Buardian Chemical Corp., 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, NY 11787. In general, the Lubra-gels can be described as hydrates or chloratrates formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a polymer

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of methacrylic acid. After that, settle down. The hydrate or clathrate with a small amount of propylene glycol followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. Lubricants are commericalised with various degrees of glycerol; in terms of the ratio of polymer and viscosity. For use in the present invention, however, the so-called Lubragel Di1 having a typical viscosity of about 0.8 Pa.s (800 cps) is preferred. Other suitable lubricants are Lubragel TW, Lubragel CB and Lubragel MB. The poly (glycyl methacrylate) 1-polyriber is incorporated in the present compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 2% and more preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% by weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20% , more preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 1%. Preferably the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 Pa (s) (4000 cps), more preferably at least about 10 Pa (s) ), and especially at least 50 Pa.s (50,000 cps). Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents may generally be described as water soluble or colloidally water soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, , guar gum, hydroxyl propyl guar gum and xanthan gum. Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents in the present invention are, however, the copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate and the carboxy vinyl polymers sold by BF F. Boodroch Company under the trade mark 6 35 1 5 10 15

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commercial use of Carbopol resins. These resins essentially consist of an acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with a colloidal, water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether, crosslinked with 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as polyallylsaccharose or polyallylpentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950 and Carbopol 980. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with about 1% of a sucralose polyallyl ether having an average of about 5, B allyl groups for each molecule of sucrose. The most preferred polymer is Carbopol 980 having a molecular weight of about 40,000. Also preferred for use in the present invention are crosslinked and hydrophobically modified acrylic acid polymers with amphipathic properties available under the trade mark of Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-i (CTFA Designation: Crosslinked Acrylates / 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Polymer). From the point of view of reducing tackiness, a combination of the polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with polyalkenyl polyether and the hydrophobically modified and crosslinked acrylic acid polymer is highly preferred. Suitable neutralizing agents for use in neutralizing the acid group containing gelling agents of the present invention include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. In preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about. 1% to about 5% of a wetland himidiocyst. The pantanal humidifier may be selected from D-pantanol (CR1-2,4-dihydroxy-N-β-hydroxypropyl-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine, pantothenate, pantenylether, pangnamic acid, pyridoxine, pantothenate and vitamin B complex. From the point of view of the treatment,

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. The compositions of the invention are in the form of aqueous gel and are preferably formulated so as to have a product viscosity of at least about 50% by weight of the skin and the reduction of tackiness. 4 (4000), and preferably in the range of from about 4,000 to 300 Pa.s (300,000 cps), more preferably from about 20 to 20,000 to about 200 Pa.s ( 200,000 cps), and especially from about 80 (80,000) to about 150 Pa (150,000 cps), 200Â ° C, such as Brookfield RVT). Preferably, the compositions are visually clear. Preferably, the compositions are also substantially free of oil, i.e., less than about 1%, and preferably less than about 0.1%, of materials which are insoluble or which are not. are colloidally soluble in the appropriate gel matrix at 20 ° C. The &quot; loosely soluble &quot; refers in the present context to particles in the range of usual colloidal sizes, typically from 1 to 1000 nm, especially from 1 to 500 nm. In highly preferred embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of materials which are insoluble or which are not colloidly soluble in distilled water at 2020. These materials include many conventional emollient materials such as hydrocarbon oils and waxes, glyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, fatty alcohols, certain fatty alcohol ethers and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols , sterols extracted from lanolin, lanolin esters, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, vegetable waxes, phospholipids, sterols and amides. The compositions may, however, contain low levels of insoluble ingredients added for, for example, purposes, visual effects, such as thermochromic liquid crystalline materials, microcapsulated cholesteryl esters and chemicals based on chiral (non-sterol) nematic. 8

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Mod. 71-20,000 ex. Such as benzoates of Hallcrest (2-methyl-butyl) -phenyl-4- (alkyl) oxide, Blenview, Illinois 60025, USA. The compositions of the invention do not require, and are also which are conventionally added to the cosmetic lotion and creamer compositions to emulsify a water insoluble oil phase. The &quot; substantially exempt &quot; again denotes less than about 1%, preferably less than about 0.1% of said materials. Such emulsifiers include ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated esters, fated esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acid polyoxyethylene fatty acid phosphates, acyl lactylates, soaps, and the like. Another optional but preferred component added to the present compositions for the purpose of improving skin feel and reducing tackiness is a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having a viscosity in the range of 55 to 300 000 seconds Universal Saybolt (&quot; Baubolt Universal Seconds &quot;) CS.USD, preferably from 100 to 2,000 SUS The compositions of the present invention may be supplemented with other humectants, especially wetting agents of polyhydric alcohols, although preferably they are substantially free (contain less than 0.5%) of glycerol. Other wetting agents polyhydric alcohols other than glycerol such as dorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and .hexanetriol may be added to the present compositions. Various water-soluble materials may be added to the compositions of the invention. An optional, but preferred, ingredient of the compositions of the invention is trimethylglycine, sometimes also known as betaine. Trimethylglycine is valuable in the present invention under item 9

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Mod. 71-20,000 ex. In the present compositions the trimethylglycine is present at a level of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 10% 3% to about 7% by weight. Other optional ingredients include keratolytic agents, such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and their derivatives? soluble or water solubilizable preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and cutylic esters of hydroxymethyl acid, EDTA, Euxyl Trademark k40Q, Bromopol <2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol ) and phenoxypropanol? anti-bacterial agents such as Irgasan (Trade Mark) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of about 0.5% to about 5%)? soluble or colloidal soluble humectants such as hyaluronic acid, and sodium polyacrylates with starch inserts such as Sanwet (Trade Mark) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available in Superabsorbent C-elanese . Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in US Pat. U.S.A. 4 076 663; coloring agents? perfumes and perfume solubilizers, etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 99.2%, preferably from about 80% to about 95% by weight of the present compositions. The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, and most preferably from about 4.5 to about 7. The invention is illustrated by the following limiting examples:

Examples I to V 10 15

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 I II III IV V D-panthenol - 2 4 - 3 Chitin fluid solution at 0, 25%) r? item 4 3 2 Tf u Ucon 75-H 450 1 - 1 1 - - Lubragel Oi1 0,5 0,5 2,0 0,5 0,5 Lubragel TW - 1,0 - 5,0 - Carbopol 980 0,5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4 Pemulen TR-1 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0.25 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2 Parabens of methyl 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1 Bermall 115 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 Hexyleneglycol • 7 - - - 2 Phenoxyethanol - 2,5 - Trimethoxyglycine The compositions are made by mixing at room temperature.

The compositions exhibit improvements in skin feel, skin treatment, and tackiness and residue along with excellent humidification, emolliation, pore penetration and absorption characteristics.

Lisbon, -4. ASO. 1992 30

By THE PROCTER &amp; GAMBLE CQMPANY

* to $ .go marks mm. , and Industrial Property Laws of the State,

Claims (1)

1 5 10 15 Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 30 64,673 R E I V INDICATIONS wool. A composition for the treatment of the skin or hair in the form of an aqueous gel characterized in that (a) from about 0.001% to about 0.5% by weight of carboethyl iminitrile, &lt; (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglycerol-methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa.sec -4000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophobic gelling agent. The composition of claim 1 containing from about 0.002% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethylchitine. 3ã. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant is a hydrate or clathrate formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a polymorph of methacrylic acid. 4ã. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of 0.2 (20) to about 5 Pa.sec (5000 cps) (Brookfield RTV, 20øC) , preferably 0.5 (500) to about 2 (2000 cps) Pa.sec, and more preferably 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa. sec (900 cps). Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 35%. - 90/08 20 25 64,673 to about 1: 1 and the weight of the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a viscosity (20øC, Brookfield RVT of about 4 C4000) at 300 Pa.sec (300 ø00 cps). 7ã. Composition of - according to any of claims 1 to &amp; characterized in that the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 2DqC, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 Pa.sec (4,000 cps), preferably at least about 10 Pa.sec. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the gelling agent contains a carboxyvinyl polymer, preferably a colloidally water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked at about 0.755% by weight about 2.0% of a crosslinking agent selected from polyalylsaccharose and polyalylpentaerythritol. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the gelling agent contains a hydrophobically modified, crosslinked acrylic acid polymer with amphipathic properties. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% gelling agent. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 10 further comprising from about 0.1% to about 10% panthenol humidifier. 12i. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains in an amount from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of a fluid polymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of 30 to 64,673 a viscosity of from about 55 to about 300,000 Saybolt Universal Seconds. . A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it additionally contains from about 1 to about 10% of trimethylglycine (betaine). Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is substantial free from oil. 10 Lisboa, -4JS0.I992 15 Mod. 71 -20,000 ex.-90/08 20 25 30 35 By THE PROCTER &amp; GAMBLE COMPANY * 4 SCO marques leu dgt ne Oficiol. of the Industrial Property of the European Communities.