PT100450A - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF AN AQUEOUS GEL CONTAINING GLYCERIN - Google Patents

Description

Ώ. 199: " COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF AN AQUEOUS BEL WITH GLYCERIN "

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for treating skin and hair in the form of an aqueous gel containing glycerin. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions in aqueous gel form characterized in that they provide improved skin feel and benefits in the treatment of the skin, reduced tack and residue characteristics, together with excellent visual clarity, humidification, pores and absorption »

Background of the Invention The skin consists of several layers of cells that coat and protect the fibrous proteins of collagen and keratin which form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, known as the stratum corneum, are known to be composed of bundles of 0 or 250 A proteins surrounded by layers of 80 .mu.m thick. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane by destroying its integrity by delipidisation (i.e., removal of stratum lipids corneum). This destruction of the topography of the skin surface causes a roughness and may eventually allow the surfactant or the solvent to interact with the keratin causing irritation.

Presently, it is recognized that maintaining an appropriate water gradient through the stratum

The T 1 5 10

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 30

Corneum is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes thought to be responsible for the elasticity of the skin, comes from within the body. If the humidity is too low, as in a cold climate, does not enough water remain on the outer layers of the stratum corneum to adequately elasticize the tissue? and the skin begins to flake off becoming pruritic. When there is a lack of mare through the stratum corneum the permeability of the skin also decreases. On the other hand, the excess water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to absorb three to five times its weight in bound water. This swells and nails the skin resulting in an approximate increase in skin permeability to water and other polar molecules two to three times. The hair is formed by many of the constituents of the stratum corneum. The outermost cell region forms a rather thick, chemically resistant, protective coat that encompasses the hair fibers, termed the cuticle. The surface of the cuticle is covered by a thin layer, the spicule, which is thought to contain lipids and proteins. The cuticle involves the cortex cells that contain most of the fibrous mass. Keratinization occurs in the cortex for. provide stability to the hair structure. Thus, there is a need for compositions which assist the stratum corneum and the cuticle of the hair to maintain optimum performance of their barring and water retention functions even though the skin and hair may suffer injury during washing , work and recreation. Conventional cosmetic compositions in creams and the like, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. I, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopedic of Chemical Technology, " JP O 35

f T

15, Edition 7, Volume 7, are known to provide varying degrees of emolliency, barrier and water retention (humidification) benefits. Yet, . they may also be severely challenged in terms of the sensation they cause in the skin (i.e., they often leave the skin in a very oily state), as well as having poor pore penetration, absorption and residue characteristics. for hair treatment can also be challenged by the reappearance of dirt.

For these reasons, the present invention provides cosmetic compositions which provide improved characteristics of absorption, residue, tackiness, skin feel and skin treatment without detriment to the efficacy of humidification in the short or long term.

Mod. 71 -20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 30

Summary of the Invention In accordance with one aspect of the present invention the same compositions for treatment of the skin or hair, in the form of aqueous gel, characterized by canterems (a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of glycerin, Cb > from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20%, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa · sec 000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent and (d) from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight trimethylglycine. according to this aspect of the present invention contain four essential ingredients and also several optional components as indicated further 4 35 1 10 15

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25

All levels and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

A first essential ingredient is glycerin (sometimes also called glycerol). Chemically, glycerin is i, 2,3-propanetriol and is a marketable product. A large proportion of the glycerin resources are applied in the manufacture of soap. In the present compositions, the glycerin is present at a level of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight of composition. A second essential ingredient is a polyglycolyl methacrylate lubricant. This should generally have a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20% Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa.sec (4000 cps), preferably less than about 1 Pa.sec (1000 cps) and more preferably less than about 0.5 Pa.sec (500 cps). In addition, the polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant also preferably has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of 0.2 (200) to about 5 Pa.sec (5000 cps) (Brookfield RVT, 2020, more preferably between about 0.5 (500) to about 2 Pa.sec (2000 cps) and especially from about 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa.sec (900 cps). Polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants which may be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the tradename Lubragel (Trade Mark) from Buardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, NY 11787. In general, Lubra gels may be described as hydrates or chlorates formed by the reaction of the sodium glycerate with a polymer of methacrylic acid. Thereafter, the hydrate or chlorate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the product.

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 30. Lubricants are marketed with varying degrees of glycerol in terms of polymer and viscosity ratios. For use herein, however, the so-called Lubragel Oil which has a typical viscosity of about 0.05 Pa.sec (SOO cps) is preferred. Other suitable Lubricants are Lubragel TW, Lubragel CC3 and Lubragel MS. Polyglycerol methacrylate lubricant is incorporated in the present compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, and more preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% by weight of the composition. The compositions according to the present invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20% %, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 1%. Preferably the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20%, Brookfield RVT ) of at least about 4 Pa.sg (4000 cps), more preferably at least about 10 Pa.sec (10,000 cps), and especially at least 50 Pa.sec (50,000 cps). Suitable hydrophilic gelificant esters may generally be described as water soluble or colloidal water soluble polymers, and include the cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl gum gum and xanthan gum. Preferred gelling agents in the compositions of the present invention are, however, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxy vinyl polymers sold by the B-F Boodrich Company under the trade designation of Carbopol resins. These resins essentially consist of a polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with a polyalkenyl polyether, colloidally soluble in 35

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 30

water, crosslinked with 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950 and Carbopol 980. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl sucrose ether with an average of about 5.8 allyl groups per each sucrose molecule. The most preferred polymer is Carbopol 980 having a molecular weight of about 4,000,000. Also preferred for use in the compositions according to the present invention are the crosslinked and hydrophobically modified acrylic acid polymers with. unsympathetic properties, available under the Trade Name of Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-i (CTFAs Cross-Polymer of Acrylates / 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate). From the point of view of reducing tackiness, a combination of the polyalkyl polyether crosslinked acrylic acid polymer with the hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymer is highly preferred. Suitable neutralizing agents for use in neutralizing the acidic group contained by the gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. In preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a panthenol humidifier. The panthenol humidifier may be selected from D-panthenol (CR3-2,4-dihydroxy 3-hydroxypropyl-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine, pantothene, pantenyl-ethyl ether, pangSymic acid, pyri-daxima, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin complex B = From the point of view of skin treatment and reduction of tackiness D-panthenol is highly preferred. 7 35 1 1 10 15

Mod. 71 -20,000 ex.- 90J08 20 25

The compositions according to the present invention are in the form of aqueous gel and are preferably formulated so that the product has a viscosity of at least about 4 < 4,000) and preferably in the range of about 4,000 ) is about 300 Pa.sec (300,000 cps), more preferably between about? 20,000) and about 200 Pa (200,000 cps) and especially between about 80 (80,000) and about 150 (150,000 cps) (202 C, such as Brookfield RVT). Preferably, the compositions are visually transparent. Preferably, the compositions are also substantially free of oil, i.e., contain less than about 1%, and preferably less than about 0.1%, of materials which are insoluble or which are not colloidal solubilities in the aqueous gel matrix at 20 DEG C. The term " colloidal " soluble " refers in the present context to particles within the range of usual colloidal sizes, typically from 1 to 1000 nm, especially from 1 to 500 nm. In highly preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention are substantially free of materials which are insoluble or which are not colloidal soluble in distilled water at 20 ° C. Such materials include many conventional emollient substances such as hydrocarbon oils and waxes, glyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, fatty alcohols, certain fatty alcohol ethers and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, lanolin extracted sterols, esters lanolin, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, vegetable waxes, phospholipids, sterols and amides. However, levels of insoluble ingredients may be added to the compositions for example, for purposes of visual effects such as crystalline materials thermomechanical liquids, of which examples are cholesteryl esters micro-encapsulates and chemicals based on chiral (non-sterol) nematic, such as (2-methyl-

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. 90/08 20 25 buti1 > -phenyl-4-alkyloxy Blenview, Illinois 600Ξ5, available from the company EUfi = nn

Hallerest,

The compositions according to the present invention do not require, and are also preferably free from, surfactant materials which are conventionally added to the cosmetic lotion and creamer compositions to emulsify a water insoluble oil phase. The expression "soluble colloidal" " again denotes less than about 1%, preferably less than about 0.1% of said materials. Such emulsifying agents include ethoxylated fatty acids, stoxylated esters, phosphate esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid phosphates fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, etc. A still essential component in the compositions of the present invention is trimethylglycine, sometimes also known as betaine. Trimethylglycine is valid in the compositions of the present invention from the point of view of improving the sensation of the skin and the reduction of the salt it provides. Said compositions comprise trimethylglycine at a level of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight. It has been found that the combination of polyglyceryl methacrylate and trimethylglycine lubricant is generally valid in reducing the tackiness of the aqueous gel or skin treatment compositions. According to another perspective the invention therefore provides compositions for treatment of the skin or hair in the form of aqueous gel characterized in that they comprise; (a) from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight of a wetting polyhydric alcohol, (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. (20% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Braokfield RVT) less than 4 Pa.sec (4,000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and Cd) from about 1% to about 10% by weight of trimethylglycine '

In addition to glycerol, other humectants polyhydric alcohols such as sorbital, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and hexanetriol may be added to the present compositions.

However, various water-soluble materials may be added to the compositions of the present invention. An additional but extremely preferred ingredient from the point of view of skin feel and tackiness is a flowable copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with a viscosity in the range of 55 to 300,000 Baybolt Universal Seconds ES.US3, preferably 100 to 2,000 SUS to 37.7 (7) StC (1000 F), for example Ucon Flui d 75-H 450

Optional ingredients also include keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof, water soluble or solubilizable preservatives, such as Bermall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM > K40G, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-di) and efnoxypropanol, and antibacterial agents such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of about 0 , 5% to about 5%) soluble or soluble solubilizing wetting agents such as hyaluronic acid, and sodium polyacrylates with starch inserts such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 marketed by Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in U.S. Patent -A-4 076 6635 coloring agents, perfumes and 10 35 1

solubilizing agents of per-Fumes, etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 98.3%, preferably from about 80% to about 95% by weight of the compositions herein treated. The pH of the compositions is preferably between about 4 and about 9, and more preferably between about 4.5 and about 7%. The invention is illustrated by the following limiting examples;

Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08

Exemplary I to V 1 II III IV V D-Panthenol 2 4 4 1 3 Glycerin 4 r? thrt 6 5 " P * Lubragel Oil 0.5 0.5. 2.0 0.5 0.5 Lubragel TW - 1.0 - 5.0 - Carbopol 980 0.5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4 Pemulen TR-1 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0.25 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2 Congratulations of methyl 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1 Germall 115 0.2 - 0 , 2 • - 0.2 Hsxi1en α-g1i co1 2 - - - 2 Phenoxyethanol - - - - 2,5 - Trimethylglycine 5 4 3 4 6 Deionized water up to 100

The compositions are made by mixing at room temperature. 30

The compositions exhibit improvements in skin feel, skin treatment, tackiness and residue along with excellent humidification, emolliation, pore penetration and absorption characteristics. 11 35 1

Mod. 71 -20,000 ex. - 90/08

Claims (1)

1 10 15 Mod. 71-20,000 ex. - 90/08 20 25 R E I V I N D I C A C B E S over there. A composition for the treatment of the skin or hair in the form of an aqueous gel characterized in that it contains; (a) from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight of glycerol, (b) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity 4, 202C, Brookfield RVT) less than 4 Pa.sec (4,000 cps), (c) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent? and (d) from about 1% to about 10% by weight of a trimethylglycine. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from about 1% to about 10%, preferably about 2% to about 6% % by weight of glycerol. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyglycerol-ethyl acrylate lubricant is a hydrate or a clathrate formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a polymer of methacrylic acid. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of 0.2 (200) to about 5 Pa.sec (5000 cps) (Brookfield RVT, 2020, preferably 0.5 (500) to about 2 (2000 cps), and more preferably 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa.sec (900 cps). Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains about 35 1 5 10 15 Mod. 71-20,000 ex. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant comprises a polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant. 5, characterized in that it has a viscosity (202C, net, Brookfield RVT) of between about 4,000 and 300,000 sec. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the gelling agent has a viscosity (aqueous solution at 15Â °, 20Â ° C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 Pa.sec (4,000 cps) , preferably at least about 10 Pa.sec (10,000 cps). A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the gelling agent comprises a carboxyvinyl polymer, preferably a colloidally water-soluble acrylic acid polymer, cross-linked from about 0.75% to about 2.0% of a crosslinking agent selected from polyalkylsucrose and polyalkylpentaerythritol. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the gelling agent comprises a hydrophobically modified, cross-linked acrylic acid polymer with amphipathic properties. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% of gelling agent. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains from about 0.1% to about 10% of the panthenol humidifier. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is substantially free of oil. (A) from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight of an alcohol. (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20%, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa. , sec (4000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent? and (d) from about 1% to about 10% by weight trimethylglycine. - 90/08 20 25 30 By THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY VASCO MARQUES LCTfE Agt '& C 15 35