PT100449A - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF AN AQUEOUS GEL CONTAINING GLYCERIN - Google Patents

Description

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COSMETICS IN FORM. The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of an aqueous gel containing glycerin for the treatment of the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions in aqueous gel form characterized in that they provide improved skin feel and benefits in the treatment of the skin, - reduced tack and residue characteristics, together with excellent visual clarity, humidification, pore penetration and absorption

Background of the Invention The skin consists of several layers of cells that coat and protect the fibrous proteins of collagen and keratin that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the outermost of these layers, designated as the stratum corneum, is composed of bundles of 250 A proteins surrounded by 80 A thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane by destroying its integrity by delipidisation (i.e., removal of the stratum corneum lipids). This denotation of the topography of the skin surface gives rise to a harsh feeling and may eventually allow the surfactant or the solvent to interact with the keratin, causing irritation. Presently, it is recognized that the maintenance of an appropriate water gradient through the stratum -2- 35 1 5 10 15

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Corneum is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes thought to be responsible for the elasticity of the skin, comes from within the body. If the humidity is too low, as in a cold climate, the stratum corneum does not remain in the outer layers of water sufficient to adequately elastify the tissue; and the skin starts to flake out becoming itchy. When there is insufficient water through the stratum corneum the permeability of the skin also decreases. On the other hand, the excess water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to absorb three to five times its weight in bound water. This swells and nails the skin resulting in an approximate increase in skin permeability to water and other polar molecules two to three times. The hair is formed by many of the constituents of the stratum corneum. The outermost cell region forms a very thick, chemically resistant, protective coat that encompasses hair fibers, called the cuticle. The surface of the cuticle is covered by a thin layer, the epicutícula, which is thought to contain lipids and proteins. The cuticle involves the cortex cells that contain most of the fibrous mass. Keratinization occurs in the cortex to confer stability to the hair structure. Thus, there is a need for compositions to assist the stratum corneum and hair cuticle to maintain optimum performance of their barrier and water retention functions despite the fact that the skin and hair may undergo deleterious interactions during washing, labor and playground. Conventional cosmetic compositions in creams and lotions as described, for example, are -3- 35 10 15

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64,671

Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition,

Vol. I, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd Edition, Volume 7, are known to provide various. degree of emolliency benefits, barrier and water retention (humidification). However, they may also suffer from contestations in terms of the sensation they cause on the skin (i.e., they often leave the skin in a very oily state), as well as having poor pore penetration, absorption and residue characteristics. In this case the compositions for the treatment of hair can also be challenged by the reappearance of the dirt.

For these reasons, the present invention provides cosmetic compositions which provide improved characteristics of absorption, residue, tackiness, skin feel and skin treatment without detriment to the efficacy of the humidification in the short or long term. SUMMARY OF MOTION

According to one aspect of the present invention there are also compositions for the treatment of the skin or hair, in the form of aqueous gel, characterized in that they contain: (a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of glycerine, (b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a methacrylate lubricant. water-soluble polyglyceryl having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20øC, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa.sec -4- 64,671

1 (4,000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and 5 10 15

(D) from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having a viscosity in the range of from about 55 to about of 300,000 Saybolt Universal Seconds.

Compositions according to this aspect of the present invention contain four essential ingredients and also several optional components as indicated below. All levels and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

A first essential ingredient is glycerin (sometimes also referred to as glycerol). Chemically, glycerin is 1, 2, 3-propanetriol and is a marketable product. A large part of the glycerin resources are applied in the manufacture of soap.

In the present compositions, the glycerin is present at a level of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably. i.e. from about 2% to about 5% by weight of the composition. 30

A second essential ingredient is a polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant. This should generally have a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20øC, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4æPa.sec (4000 cps), preferably less than. which is about 1 Pa.sec (1000 cps) and more preferably less than about 0.5 Pa.sec (500 cps). In addition, the lubricant -5- 35 1 5 10 15

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of polyglyceryl methacrylate also preferably has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of from about 0.2 (200) to about 5 Pa.sec (5000 cps) (Brookfield RVT, 20øC), more preferably from about 0.5 (500) to about 2 Pa.sec (2000 cps) and especially from about 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa.sec (900 cps). Polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants which may be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the tradename Lubragel (Trade Mark) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, NY 11787. In general, the Lubragels may be described such as hydrates or cyathates formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a polymer of methacrylic acid. Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. Lubricants are marketed with various grades of glycerate: in terms of polymer ratio and viscosity. For use in the present invention, however, the so-called Lubragel Oil is preferred which has a typical viscosity of about 0.8 Pa.sec (800 cps). Other suitable Lubricants are Lubragel TW, Lubragel CG and Lubragel MS. The polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant is incorporated in the present compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, and most preferably from about 0.3% % to about 1% by weight of the composition. The compositions according to the present invention also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at a level of from about -6 to 30

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0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 1%. Preferably the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20aC, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 Pa.sec (4,000 cps), more preferably at least about 10 Pa.sec (10,000 cps) , and especially at least 50 Pa.sec (50,000 cps). Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents may generally be described as water soluble or colloidally water soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, alcohol polyvinyl chloride, guar gum, hydroxy propyl guar gum and xanthan gum. Preferred gelling agents in the compositions of the present invention are, however, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxybnyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade designation of Carbopol resins. These resins essentially consist of an acrylic acid polymer cross-linked with a colloidal, water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked with 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950 and Carbopol 980. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with about 1% of a polyalyl sucrose ether with an average of about 5, 8 allyl groups per sucrose molecule. The most preferred polymer is Carbopol 980 having a molecular weight of about 4,000,000. Also preferred for use in the compositions of this invention are

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invention are the crosslinked and hydrophobically modified acrylic acid polymers with amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name of Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates / 10-10 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). From the point of view of reducing tackiness, a combination of the polyalkylene polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer with the hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic acid polymer is highly preferred. Suitable neutralizing agents for use in the neutralization of the acidic group contained by the gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. In preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the present invention also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a panthenol humidifier. The panthenol humidifier may be selected from D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl] -3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-pantene1, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine, pantothenate, pantenyl-ethyl ether, pangemic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex. From the point of view of skin treatment and reduction of tackiness D-panthenol is highly preferred. The compositions according to the present invention are in aqueous gel form and are preferably formulated so that the product has a viscosity of at least about 4 (4000) and preferably in the range of about 4 (4000) and about 300 Pa.sec (300,000 cps), plus -8- 30 1 5 10 15

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preferably from about 20,000 to about 200,000 cps, and especially from about 80,000 to about 150,000,000 cps. (20 ° C, such as Brookfield RVT). Preferably, the compositions are visually clear. Preferably, the compositions are also substantially free of oil, i.e., contain less than about 1%, and preferably less than about 0.1%, of materials that are insoluble or that are not colloidally soluble in the aqueous gel matrix at 20 ° C. The " colloidally soluble " refers in the present context to particles within the range of usual colloidal sizes, typically from 1 to 1000 nm, especially from 1 to 500 nm. In highly preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are substantially free of materials which are insoluble or which are not colloidally water soluble. distilled at 20 ° C. Such materials include many conventional emollient substances such as hydrocarbon oils and waxes, glyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, fatty alcohols, certain fatty alcohol ethers and fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, lanolin extracted sterols, esters lanolin, wax esters derived from beeswax, vegetable waxes, phospholipids, sterols and amides. However, low levels of insoluble ingredients may be added to the compositions for, for example, visual effects purposes, such as thermochromic liquid crystalline materials, examples of which are microcapsulated cholesteryl esters and chemicals based on chiral nematic sterol), such as (2-methyl-4-butyl) -phenyl-4-alkyloxy benzoates available from Hallcrest, Glenview, Illinois 60025,

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The compositions according to the present invention do not require, and are also preferably free from, surfactant materials which are conventionally added to the lotion and cosmetic creamer compositions to emulsify a water insoluble oil phase. The " colloidally soluble " again denotes less than about 1%, preferably less than about 0.1% of said materials. Such emulsifying agents include ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated esters, phosphate esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, etc. A further essential component of the compositions of the present invention, added for the purpose of reducing tackiness and skin feel, is a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having a viscosity level of from about 55 to about 300,000 . Saybolt Universal Seconds [S.U.S. 3, preferably from about 100 to about 2000 S.U.S. at 37.7 (7) ° C (100 ° F), for example Ucon Fluid 75-H 450. It has been found that the combination of the polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant and the fluid copolymer is generally valid in reducing the tackiness of the compositions for treatment of the hair or hair in the form of aqueous gel. According to another perspective the invention therefore provides aqueous gel or skin treatment compositions characterized in that they comprise: (a) from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight of a wetting polyhydric alcohol , 35 -10- 64,671

(b) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa. sec (4,000 cps), (c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having a viscosity of from about 55 to about 300,000 Saybolt Universal Seconds.

In addition to glycerol, other humectants polyhydric alcohols such as sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and hexanetriol may be added to the present compositions.

Various water soluble materials may be added to the compositions of the present invention. An optional, but preferred, ingredient in the compositions of the invention is trimethylglycine, sometimes also known as betaine. Trimethylglycine is valid in said compositions in that it provides improved skin feel and reduced tackiness. Trimethylglycine is preferably integrated in the present compositions at a level of from about 1% to about 10% by weight, and preferably from about 3% to about 7% by weight.

Optional ingredients include keratolytic agents, such as salicylic acid, and proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water soluble or solubilizable preservatives, such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl esters. butyl ester

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64,671 hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterial agents such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels between about 0.5% to about 5%); soluble or colloidally soluble wetting agents such as hyaluronic acid, and sodium polyamides with starch inserts such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Gelanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in US-A-4 076 663] coloring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizing agents, etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 99.2%, preferably from about 80% to about 95% by weight of the compositions herein. The pH of the compositions is preferably between about 4 and about 9, and most preferably between about 4.5 and about 7. The invention is illustrated by the following limiting examples:

Examples I to VI II III IV V D-Pantene 1 2 4 4 1 3 Glecerin 4 2 6 5 3 Ucon 75-H 450 1 1 1 1 1 Lubragel Oil 0.5 0.5 2.0 0.5 0.5 Lubrage1 TW-1, o - 5.0 - Carbopol 980 0.5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4 Pemulen TR-1 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0 , 25 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2 methyl parabens 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1 -12- 64.671 10

Germall 115 Hexylene Glycol Phenoxyethanol Trimethylglycine Deionized Water 15

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The compositions are made by mixing at room temperature.

The compositions exhibit improvements in skin feel, skin treatment, and tack and residue characteristics along with excellent humidification, emolliency, pore penetration and absorption characteristics.

Lisbon, -4

By THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY

25?

Agertie Ofici ·! of the Industrial Prototype (Stolorio-Arc, Conception, 3, 30, 13-35).

Claims (1)

1 10 15 Mod. 71-20,000 e *. - - - - - - - - - - - A composition for the treatment of the skin or hair in the form of an aqueous gel characterized in that it contains: (a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of glycerol, (b) from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20øC, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa.sec (4000 cps), (c) between about from 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of a fluid copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having a viscosity in the range of about 55 to about 300,000 Saybolt Universal Seconds. 2ã. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from about 1% to about 10%, preferably from about 2% to about 6% by weight of glycerin. 3ã. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant is a hydrate or clathrate formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. 4ã. - Composition according to any of the -14 · 35 1 5 10 15 Mod. 71 -20,000 ex. Characterized in that the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant has a viscosity (liquid) in the range of 0.2 (200) to about 5,000 psi (Brookfield RVT, 20ø C), preferably 0.5 (500) to about 2 (2000 cps) Pa.sec, and most preferably 0.7 (700) to about 0.9 Pa.sec (900 cps). 5ã. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% by weight of the polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. 6â. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a viscosity (20øC, liquid, Brookfield RVT) of from about 4,000 to 300,000 cps. 7ã. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the gelling agent has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution 20øC, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 Pa.sec (4000 cps), preferably at least about 10 Pa.sec (10,000 cps). 8ã. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the gelling agent contains a carboxyvinyl polymer, preferably a colloidally water-soluble acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with about 0.75% to about 2.0% of a crosslinking agent selected from polyalkylsucrose and polypropylene. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the gelling agent contains a hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer with amphipathic properties. 1 64,671 105. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains from about 0.2% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 1% gelling agent. 5 Ll. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains from about 0.1% to about 10% panthenol humidifier, 10% 12ã. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is substantially free of oil. 13ã. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it additionally contains from about 1% to about 10% trimethylglycine (betaine). Mod. 71-20,000 eic. - 90/08 14â. A composition for the treatment of hair skin in the form of an aqueous gel characterized in that it contains: (a) from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight of a wetting polyhydric alcohol, (b) from about 0% , 1% to about 10% by weight of a water-soluble polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricant having a viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of less than 4 Pa.sec (4,000 cps), c) from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of a hydrophilic gelling agent; and (d) from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of a flowable copolymer of ethylene oxide and ethylene oxide. propylene copolymer having a viscosity of from about 55 to about 300,000 Saybolt Universal -16- Ψ 64,671 1 Seconds. Lisbon, Portugal, by THE PROCTER & GAMBLE C0MPANY 10 15 3 S and 4U i fÁSC® MARQUES ffiW Official Journal «f« Industrial Prppntity - Sect-Ar «« «Concei», 3, 1.β · 11θ & ϋΜΒ Mod. 71-20 (OO 25 30 35 -17- Mod. 71 - 20,000 eie - 90/08