CN1066387A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A kind of skin of aqueous gel form or hair care composition wherein comprise carboxymethyl chitosan; A kind of water-soluble poly-methyl methacrylate ester lubricant, its viscosity is lower than 4000 centipoises; A kind of hydrophilic gelling agent; Said composition provides improved dermal sensation and skin care benefits, lowers viscosity and persistence characteristic, and has the excellent visual transparency, and moisture retention is rubbed into skin and absorption characteristic.

Description

Cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to skin and hair care cosmetics compositions.Say that more specifically relate to the cosmetic composition of aqueous gel form, it provides the benefit of improved dermal sensation and skin nursing, reduces viscosity and persistence characteristic, also have the excellent visual transparency, moisture retention, be rubbed into skin and absorption characteristic.

Skin is to be made of the number confluent monolayer cells, and it can coat and protect keratin and the collagen fiber albumen that constitutes its structural framework.Outermost layer wherein is called horny layer, and known its albumen bundle by 250 dusts that are surrounded by 80 dust thick-layers is constituted.The general penetrable cutin tunic of anion surfactant and organic solvent, and owing to degreasing (promptly removing lipid matter from horny layer) is destroyed its globality.Thisly make the destruction of skin surface cause harsh feeling, surfactant or solvent and keratin are had an effect, produce stimulation.

Now generally acknowledged, be important in the gradient that strides across the suitable water of horny layer two sides maintenance for its performance function.The major part of these water is from body interior, and these water are regarded as cuticular plasticizer sometimes.If humidity is too low, when for example weather is cold,, can not make the normal plasticizing of tissue in the cuticular outer water deficient of retaining; Skin begins to give birth to squama and itch.When striding across horny layer two sides water deficient, the permeability of skin also descends to some extent.Aspect in addition, excess moisture outside skin finally makes its weight of horny layer sorption 3-5 bound water doubly.This makes puffiness of skin and wrinkling, and to be skin increase about 2-3 times to the permeability of water and other polar molecules to its consequence.

Hair contains many compositions identical with horny layer.The cell of outermost regions forms the protective layer of thicker chemically-resistant material, and in hair fiber was encapsulated in, this layer was called cutin membrane.The surface coverage of cutin membrane has a thin layer, is referred to as outer cutin membrane, and thinks and wherein contain lipid and protein.Described cutin membrane encases cortical cell and constitutes the major part of this corpus fibrosum.In cortex generation keratinization, make hair structure have stability.

Therefore, needed is such compositions, and it can assist horny layer and hair cutin membrane to keep the function of its barriers function and reservation water to be in optimum state, and is not subjected to the adverse effect of skin and hair environmental activity of meeting in washing, work and amusement.

Conventional pomade and skin lotion compositions, Sagarin for example, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.1, Wiley Interscience(1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, the record of Volume 7 provides and changes soft and moist degree, barrier and the benefits such as (reservation moisture) of preserving moisture.Yet they also have other critical defects aspect dermal sensation, that is usually make dermal sensation very greasy, and the character that is rubbed into skin is not good, and absorbability is not good and persistence characteristic is not good.For the hair care composition aspect, they also have the shortcoming of staiing again.

Therefore, the invention provides such skin and hair care cosmetics compositions, they improve to some extent in following several respects: absorbability, persistence characteristic, viscosity, dermal sensation and skin nursing characteristic, there is not counter productive for short time and long-time humectant properties simultaneously.

Press one aspect of the present invention, provide the skin or the hair care composition of aqueous gel form, except that moisture, contain in the compositions:

(a) carboxymethyl chitosan about 0.001-0.5%(weight),

(b) water-soluble poly-methyl methacrylate ester lubricant about 0.1-10%(weight), its viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT) is lower than 4000 centipoises,

(c) hydrophilic gelling agent about 0.1-20%(weight).

Above-mentioned compositions by this one side of the present invention contains as above 3 kinds of main components, also can choose wantonly and contain following component.All content numerals are by composition total weight except that other has the person of indicating.

First kind of main component is carboxymethyl chitosan.Chitin has another name called chitin, is a kind of polysaccharide, and it is present in the carapace of Lobster and Eriocheir sinensis class, is the N-acetyl-D-glycosamine mucopolysaccharide of a kind of β of having (1-4) link.The carboxymethyl chitosan preparation is with the purified chitin material of alkali treatment, handles with chloroacetic acid subsequently.Its merchant sells product and is weak solution (about 0.1-0.5%, weight) in the water, merchant Chitin Liquid by name, supplier A ﹠amp; E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England.

In the present composition, carboxymethyl chitosan content is about 0.001-0.5%, preferably about 0.002-0.05%, and more preferably from about 0.005-0.02% is by composition weight meter.

Second kind of key component is water-soluble poly-methyl methacrylate ester lubricant.Usually its viscosity should be lower than about 4000 centipoises (10% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT), is preferably to be lower than about 1000 centipoises, more preferably is lower than about 500 centipoises.In addition, the viscosity of this polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant (clean material) is preferably about 200-5000 centipoise (Brookfield RVT, 20 ℃), more preferably about 500-2000 centipoise, particularly about 700-900 centipoise.

The polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant that can be used for the present composition has commodity to be called Lubragel(RTM) product, the supplier is Guardian Chemical Coporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y.11787.Generally, Lubragel can be described as hydrate or clathrate, and it is to be formed by sodium glycerinate and the reaction of a kind of methacrylate polymer.With this hydrate or cage type inclusion minor amounts of propylene glycol stabilisation, then products therefrom carried out controlled hydration thereafter.The Lubragel commodity have multiple grade, its glycerate: polymer ratio difference, viscosity are also variant.Preferred employing is the product that is called Lubragel Oil herein, and its typical viscosities is about 800 centipoises.Other are suitable for Lubragel TW, Lubragel CG, Lubragel MS.

In this compositions, the addition of polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant is about 0.1-10%, is preferably about 0.2-2%, and particularly about 0.3-1% presses composition weight meter.

The present composition also contains a kind of hydrophilic gelling agent, and its content is preferably about 0.1-20%, more preferably about 0.2-2%, particularly about 0.3-1%(weight).This gellant preferred viscosities is to low about 4000 centipoises (1% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT), more preferably to low about 10000 centipoises, particularly to low 50000 centipoises.

The hydrophilic gelling agent that is suitable for generally can be described as water solublity or the water miscible polymer of colloidal state, comprises cellulose ether, hydroxyethyl-cellulose for example, methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose; Polyvinyl pyrrolidone; Polyvinyl alcohol; Guar gum; The hydroxypropyl guar gum; Xanthan gum.

Yet preferred hydrophilic gelling agent is acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, and carboxy vinyl polymer (B.F.Goodrich Company produces, trade (brand) name Carbopol resins).These resins mainly consist of colloidal state water-soluble poly alkenyl polyether cross linked polymer, be to form by the cross-linking agent of acrylic acid and 0.75-2.00% is crosslinked, described cross-linking agent is polyene propyl group sucrose or polyene propyl group tetramethylolmethane for example.The example comprises Carbopol 934, and Carbopol 940, and Carbopol 950, and Carbopol 980.Carbopol 934 is water-soluble polymers, by crosslinked the forming of polyallyl ether of acrylic acid and about 1% sucrose, and on average about 5.8 allyl group of each sucrose molecule.Most preferably polymer is Carbopol 980, mean molecule quantity about 4000000.The acrylic crosslinking polymer of hydrophobically modified preferably in addition, it has amphipathic characteristic, its merchant Carbopol 1342 by name and Pemulen TR-1(CTFA name: acrylate/10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer).From reducing viscosity, the compositions of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer of this polyalkenyl polyethers and this hydrophobically modified most preferably.

The nertralizer of the hydrophilic gelling agent that being applicable to neutralizes herein contains acidic-group comprises sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine.

In preferred embodiments, the present composition also contains the 0.1-10% that has an appointment, and preferably is about 1-5%(weight) the pantothenylol wetting agent, it can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl]-3,3-amide dimethyl butyrate), the DL-pantothenylol, calcium pantothenate, Lac regis apis, pantethin (panthetine), Pan Teyin (pantotheine), general benzyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose, compound vitamin B.From skin nursing with reduce viscosity, most preferably be D-panthenol.

The present composition is the aqueous gel form, and the product viscosity that is preferably in after being made into is about 4000 centipoises to hanging down, and is preferably about 4000-300000 centipoise, more preferably about 20000-200000 centipoise, particularly about 80000-150000 centipoise (being 20 ℃, clean material, Brookfield RVT).Preferred said composition naked eyes see it is transparent.Said composition does not also preferably have oil in fact, promptly contains to be less than approximately 1%, preferably is less than about 0.1% insoluble or can not the colloidal state dissolved substances in this water quality gel-in-matrix in 20 ℃." colloidal state is solvable " described herein is meant that its granular size in common colloid magnitude range, is generally the 1-1000 millimicron, particularly the 1-500 millimicron.In most preferred embodiment, said composition is not contained in 20 ℃ of distilled water insoluble or can not the colloidal state dissolved substances in fact.These materials comprise the multiple conventional skin moistening material that uses, for example hydrocarbon ils and wax, glyceride, Arrcostab, alkenyl esters, aliphatic alcohol, the fatty alcohol ether of some ethoxylized fatty alcohol and fatty acid ester are by the steroid class that lanoline refines, lanoline ester, wax ester, the Cera Flava derivant, vegetable wax, phospholipid, the steroid class, amide.Yet, said composition can contain the insoluble composition of a spot of adding, for example, and for visual effect, the liquid crystal material that adds the thermic color, for example the cholesterol ester sealed of microgranule and based on the chemical substance of Chinrally nematic (non-sterol) as 4-alkyl (oxo) benzoic acid (2-methyl butyl) phenylester, is supplied by Hallcrest, Glenview, Illinois 60025, U, S.A..

Do not need to contain (preferably not containing in fact) surfactant in the present composition, that is in conventional pomade and skin lotion compositions used emulsive those surfactants of water-insoluble oil phase that make.Described " not containing in fact " means this material and is less than approximately 1%, preferably is less than about 0.1%.Aforesaid emulsifying agent comprises ethoxylated fatty acid, ethoxylation ester, phosphorylation ester, ethoxylized fatty alcohol, polyoxyethylene aliphatic ether phosphate ester, fatty acid amide, acyl lactylates, soap or the like.

Another kind of optional but preferred ingredients is to play dermal sensation and lower the oxirane of viscous effect and the mobile copolymer of tool of expoxy propane in this compositions, its 100 viscosity are about 55-300000 (Saybolt Universal second, S.U.S.), be preferably 100-2000 S.U.S., for example Ucon Fluid 75-H 450.

Can replenish in the present composition and contain other wetting agents, polyhydric alcohol wetting agent particularly, but preferably wherein do not contain glycerol (content is less than 0.5%) in fact.The available herein polyhydric alcohol wetting agent except that glycerol comprises: sorbitol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, ethoxylated glucose, hexanetriol.

Can add multiple water-soluble substances in addition in the present composition.A kind of optional but preferred composition is a trimethyl glycine in the present composition, or be called betanin.From good dermal sensation being provided and lowering viscosity, trimethyl glycine is of great value.In this compositions, the content of trimethyl glycine is about 1-10%, is preferably about 3-7%(weight).

Other optional materials comprise keratolytic, as salicylic acid; Protein and many phthaleins with and derivant; But the antiseptic of solubilization in water solublity or the water, as Germall 115, methyl hydroxybenzoate, ethyl ester, propyl ester and butyl ester; EDTA; Euxyl(RTM) K 400, Bromopol(2-bromo-2-nitro the third-1,3-glycol) and phenoxypropanol; Antibacterial such as Irgasan(RTM) and phenyl phenol (preferred content is 0.5% to about 5%); The fusile wetting agent of solvable or colloidal state, as hylaronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylate, as Sanwet(RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500, Im-2500, supplier: Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA sees USA-A-4076663; Colouring matter; Spice and spice stabilizing agent, or the like.The content of water is about 50-99.2%, is preferably about 80-95%, presses composition weight meter.

The pH of said composition is preferably about 4-9, more preferably about 4.5-7.

Illustrate the present invention by following limited embodiment:

The example I is to V I II III IV V

D-panthenol-2 4-3

Chitin liquid (0.25% solution) 24323

Ucon 75-H 450 1 - 1 1 -

Lubragel Oil 0.5 0.5 2.0 0.5 0.5

Lubragel TW - 1.0 - 5.0 -

Carbopol 980 0.5 0.4 0.6 0.4 0.4

Pemulen TR-1 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3

Sodium hydroxide 0.25 0.25 0.3 0.2 0.2

Methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1

Germall 115 0.2 - 0.2 - 0.2

Hexanediol 2---2

Phenyl phenol---2.5-

Trimethyl glycine-4 346

Deionized water ... add to 100

In ambient temperature each component is mixed, make compositions.

The improved dermal sensation of these compositions display, skin nursing, viscosity and persistence characteristic have excellent moisture retention, emollient simultaneously, are rubbed into skin and absorption characteristic.

Claims (15)

1, a kind of skin of aqueous gel form or hair care composition wherein comprise (by weight):

(a) carboxymethyl chitosan of about 0.001-0.5%,

(b) a kind of water-soluble poly-methyl methacrylate ester lubricant of about 0.1-10%, its viscosity (10% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT) is lower than 4000 centipoises,

(c) a kind of approximately hydrophilic gelling of about 0.1-20% agent.

2, the compositions of claim 1 contains the 0.005-0.02%(weight of having an appointment) carboxymethyl chitosan.

3, the compositions of claim 1, wherein this polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant is a kind of hydrate or clathrate, is by the reaction of sodium glycerinate and a kind of methacrylate polymer and form.

4, the compositions of claim 3, wherein the clean material viscosity of this polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant is about 200-5000 centipoise (20 ℃, Brookfield RVT).

5, the compositions of claim 4, wherein the clean material viscosity of this polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant is about 700-900 centipoise.

6, the compositions of claim 1 comprises about 0.2-2%(weight) this kind polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant.

7, the compositions of claim 1, its viscosity (20 ℃, clean material, Brookfield RVT) is about 4000-300000 centipoise.

8, the compositions of claim 1, wherein the viscosity of this gellant (1% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT) is to low about 4000 centipoises.

9, the compositions of claim 8, wherein this gellant comprises a kind of CVP Carbopol ETD2050, it is a kind of colloidal state water-soluble polymer, is that this cross-linking agent is to be selected from polyene propyl group sucrose and polyene propyl group tetramethylolmethane by crosslinked the forming of cross-linking agent of acrylic acid with about 0.75-2.0%.

10, the compositions of claim 8, wherein this gellant comprises a kind of acrylic crosslinking polymer through hydrophobically modified, tool amphipathic characteristic.

11, the compositions of claim 1 comprises this gellant of about 0.2-2%.

12, the compositions of claim 1 contains a kind of pantothenylol wetting agent of the 0.1-10% that has an appointment in addition.

13, the compositions of claim 1, other contains the 0.1-5%(weight of having an appointment) the mobile copolymer of tool that is become with expoxy propane by oxirane, its viscosity is about 55-300000 second (S.U.S., Saybolt Universal second).

14, the compositions of claim 1, other contains the trimethyl glycine (betanin) of the 1-10% that has an appointment.

15, the compositions of claim 1, wherein oil-containing not in fact.