PL227119B1 - Cosmetic composition containing hyaluronic acid and the use of complex structured water and hyaluronic acid - Google Patents

Description

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing hyaluronic acid and structured water. Due to the unique physicochemical structure of structured water, the cosmetic composition has properties that limit transepidermal water loss - TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) by almost 30% higher than in commonly used distilled or demineralized water. The composition of structured water and hyaluronic acid can be the basis for the production of all moisturizing preparations, with particular emphasis on the most demanding skins, i.e. dry, mature, aging, allergic and atopic skin.

Creams used in daily care are primarily designed to moisturize the skin and protect the epidermal cells against free radicals, chemicals, weathering and UV radiation.

The moisturizing effect of most preparations is based on providing water associated with a hydrophilic substance, i.e. most often glycerine or glycol, sorbitol and collagen. It is a very superficial, short-term effect, and if too high concentration of hydrophilic substances is used, it can dehydrate the deeper layers of the epidermis. Therefore, it seems very important not so much to provide water, but to use substances that will reduce water loss through the epidermis, i.e. reduce the so-called TEWL (trans epidermal water loss).

In a healthy epidermis, the average TEWL is, depending on the environmental conditions and measurement site _2, 2-5 g water / m ² per hour, that is 200-400 ml per day. The problem of water loss is key in the aging process of the skin, during which the epidermis is thinned, the amount of proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans, which bind water in the dermis, are reduced, and the ability to synthesize sterols responsible for e.g. for the correct lipid composition of the epidermis. In many dermatoses, the etiopathogenesis of which is based primarily on a disturbance in the composition of the epidermal lipid barrier, such as atopic dermatitis, contact eczema, keratosis disorders, TEWL reaches 1000-1500 ml per day. Drying of the epidermis causes itching, itching exacerbates the inflammation, and this intensifies skin changes and the course of the disease.

Various ingredients are used in the preparations available on the market to limit the transepidermal water loss. These are mainly substances with an occlusive effect, such as petroleum jelly and paraffin, squalene mineral oils, silicone derivatives, fatty alcohols, waxes and their esters, and phospholipids. All these compounds contribute to the reduction of TEWL, however, they cause the formation of blackheads, so they cannot be used for oily skin.

The patent application WO 2009112492 (published 2009-09-17) describes cosmetic water-in-oil W / O emulsions. This invention relates to water-oil w / o emulsion compositions that contain solid silicone elastomer solid particles in high concentration. This application relates primarily to oil-water W / O emulsions containing a high content of polysilicon-11, solid particles which cause at least one optical and emulsifying effect. The emulsions of the invention are suitable for characterizing the face and / or lips or eyelids, especially as a primer. They can also be used as a make-up base or as a body or face cream. These compositions improve the overall appearance of the skin through blurring effects, resulting in anti-wrinkle / firming effects, skin smoothness and radiance, while unifying the skin tone. These compositions also have unique sensory properties.

In the patent application US 20070274932 (published 2007-11-29) W / O water-oil emulsion compositions containing sunscreen and siloxane elastomers are presented. The invention relates to water-in-oil w / o emulsion compositions suitable as sunscreen comprising: from 0.1% to 15% of an emulsifying cross-linked siloxane elastomer; from 1% to 40% of an emulsifying solvent, a cross-linked siloxane elastomer; from 0.01% to 5% additional emulsifier; from 50% to 99% of an aqueous phase and from 0.01% to 30% of sunscreens in which when a tangential stress is applied to the composition when spreading over the skin, the aqueous phase is released from the emulsion.

The patent applications US20060233729 (published 2006-10-19), US20060006421 (published 2002-01-17) and the patent description EP1037596 (published 2005-04-27) describe long-acting, chemical-resistant emollients, moisturizers and fortifying agents. This invention relates to compounds that are two-fragment molecules, and compositions containing these compounds wherein one part is intended to be covalently bound to the skin (binding agent) and the other part (characterizing agent) is designed to convey a specific goal such as skin softening, moisturizing effect, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle, analgesic, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, anti-irritation, sunbathing and skin lightening effects, extended skin protection (e.g. against UV radiation by adding sunscreen; against toxins) and irritants; against insects and skin parasites by the addition of insecticides and / or insect repellants; against free radicals or other factors such as aging, by adding antioxidants) or such as dyeing hair, skin, nails, wool or fur. The covalently bonding portion may also be used to impart a strengthening effect to the skin (e.g., against tangential forces) or as a wound healing agent.

In the state of the art from the book "Nursing and medical cosmetology" Maria Noszczyk, Wydawnictwo Lekarskie PZWL, Warsaw 2010, the properties of hyaluronic acid and its use in cosmetics as an active ingredient are known. This book discloses that hyaluronic acid is very hygroscopic, it absorbs more than 100% by weight of water, additionally, when used in the cosmetic, it does not absorb, but creates a protective water film on the surface of the epidermis. On the other hand, the website http://www.dermatoestetica.pl/dermatologia-estetvczna/wypelwanie-zmarszczek- modeling-oval-face-modeling-lips.html revealed that one molecule of hyaluronic acid is able to bind approx. 250 molecules water.

The use of hyaluronic acid gels fully or partially saturated with water in cosmetics is also known from the document "The science of hyaluronic acid dermal fillers." Tezel A., Fredrickson GH., J. Cosmet Laser Ther 2008, 10: 35-42.

In addition, a combination of hyaluronic acid and water was used in the Viscontour® Serum skin hydration composition.

The composition of the Immunocologie Treatment Creme has been disclosed on the website https // www.truthinaging.com / review / immunocolagie-treatment-cremeconsigned-to-dept-of-daft. hyaluronic acid structured water.

Additionally, document KR20090020407 discloses a liposome composition containing a complex of various moisturizing and skin penetration enhancing components (e.g., hyaluronic acid and purified water).

In turn, documents RO119814, RO116865 and RO119685 disclose cosmetic compositions containing structured water.

Moreover, the website http://www.estien.pl/rollon-kwasem-hialuronowym-p-248.html discloses a cosmetic preparation containing water and hyaluronic acid.

Despite the existing solutions, there is a continuous need to provide a solution aimed at reducing transepidermal water loss, while not creating blackheads, so that they can be used for oily skin.

The aim of the present invention was to provide such a solution that the complex of structured water with hyaluronic acid used in the preparation, due to the unique physicochemical structure, had the properties limiting TEWL by almost 30% higher than in commonly used distilled or demineralized water.

Surprisingly, it turned out that thanks to the use of a higher concentration of hyaluronic acid, a better moisturizing effect was achieved without the addition of occlusive agents. The base consisting of structured water and hyaluronic acid can be the basis for the production of all moisturizing preparations, with particular emphasis on the most demanding skins, i.e. dry, mature, with signs of aging, allergic and atopic skin.

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing hyaluronic acid in a form suitable for application to the skin, a cosmetic carrier, excipients and water, characterized in that the water is in the form of structured water and is a complex with hyaluronic acid, the concentration of hyaluronic acid being in the range 0.001-25%, while the ratio of structured water to hyaluronic acid is in the range of 75-0.999%, additionally it contains a preservative, a complex of structured water with hyaluronic acid has TEWL limiting properties by at least 20% greater than in distilled or demineralized water, and the acid hyaluronic has a molecular weight of less than 1.6601 x 10 ^-24 kg.

Preferably the composition additionally comprises Montanov 68 (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside) in an amount from 1 to 10%, Oli wax LC (cetyl palmitate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan monooleate)

PL 227 119 B1 of tolu) in an amount of 1 to 10%, cetyl stearyl alcohol in an amount of 1 to 10%, Hydracire S (jojoba waxes, acacia, sunflower) in an amount of 1 to 10%, Chemyforest Cupuacu CG (Theobroma cocoa oil grandiflorum) in an amount of 1 to 10%, caprylic / capric triglyceride in an amount of 1 to 10%, pasiflory oil in an amount of 1 to 10%, LexFeel Natural (monoester of caprylic acid, monoester of undecylic acid) in an amount of 1 to 10% , Inca Omega oil (Plukenetia Volubilis almond oil) in an amount of 1 to 10%.

Preferably the composition additionally comprises Olivem 1000 (fatty acid esters from olive oil, sorbitan and cetearyl alcohol) in an amount from 1 to 10%, Oli wax LC (cetyl palmitate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan monooleate) in an amount from 1 to 10%, alcohol cetyl stearyl in the amount of 1 to 10%, Hydracire S (jojoba waxes, acacia, sunflower) in the amount of 1 to 10%, caprylic / capric triglyceride in the amount of 1 to 10%, pasiflora oil in the amount of 1 to 10%, LexFeel Natural (monoester of caprylic acid, monoester of undecyl acid) in the amount of 1 to 10%, Inca Omega oil (almond oil Plukenetia Volubilis) in the amount of 1 to 10%.

Preferably, the composition additionally comprises Emulium Kappa II (esters of polyglycerols from jojoba, chamomile, rice, sodium stearoyl lactate) in an amount from 1 to 10%, cetyl stearyl alcohol in an amount from 1 to 10%, Hydracire S (jojoba waxes, acacia, sunflower) in an amount 1 to 10%, caprylic / capric triglyceride in the amount of 1 to 10%, pasiflora oil in an amount of 1 to 10%, LexFeel Natural (monoester of caprylic acid, monoester of undecyl acid) in an amount of 1 to 10%, Inca Omega oil (Plukenetia Volubilis almond oil) in an amount of 1 to 10%.

Preferably, the composition is an O / W emulsion for the care of the skin of the face and body and is a day or night preparation.

In order to better illustrate the solution, the results are presented in the figure where:

Figure 1 is a graph showing the average level of skin hydration after application of the test cosmetic product to the skin; Figure 2 is a graph showing the average percent increase in skin hydration after application of a test cosmetic product to the skin; Figure 3 is a graph showing the mean TEWL value after application of the test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 4 is a graph showing the average percentage of TEWL reduction after application of the test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 5 is a graph showing the average percent increase in skin smoothness after application of a test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 6 is a graph showing the average product score by probant for two specific traits. Rating on a scale of 1 to 5;

Figure 7 is a graph showing the average skin hydration value after application of the test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 8 is a graph showing the average percent increase in skin hydration after application of test cosmetic product to skin;

Figure 9 is a graph showing the mean TEWL value after application of the test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 10 is a graph showing the average percentage of TEWL reduction after application of test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 11 is a graph showing the average percent increase in skin smoothness after application of test cosmetic product to the skin;

Figure 12 is a graph showing the mean value of skin hydration after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD;

Figure 13 is a graph showing the mean percent difference in skin hydration after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD;

Figure 14 is a graph showing the mean skin TEWL value after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD;

Figure 15 is a graph showing the average percent TEWL of skin after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD;

Figure 16 is a graph showing the average value of the increase in skin smoothness after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD;

Figure 17 is a graph showing the mean percent difference in skin smoothness after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD.

PL 227 119 B1

For a better understanding of the invention, exemplary solutions are presented below.

P r z k ł a d 1

Night cream

The product is an O / W emulsion intended for overnight facial skin care. Contains anti-radical and moisturizing substances, 1% solution of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in structured water, non-synthetic emulsifier, mild preservative without parabens, formaldehydes and their derivatives.

Organoleptic characteristics (consistency, color, smell, spreadability, speed of absorption through the skin) have been approved by KosMeD Danuta Nowicka through consultations of subsequent product versions.

Shelf life is 6 months from the production date, taking into account refrigerated storage.

Recipe

Phase trade name Percentage A, 75 ° C Structured water 48.50 Phytic acid 50% solution 0.10 Fukocert 3.00 Glycerine 3.00 Xanthan gum 0.30 B 75 ° C Montanov 68 5.00 Oli wax LC 2.00 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.50 Hydracire S 4.00 Chemyforest Cupuacu CG 3.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 6.00 Passionflower oil 1.50 LexFeel Natural 4.00 Inca Omega Oil 2.00 C 50 ° C Lexgard Natural 1.00 D 45 ° C Herbex resverol 0.5 2.00 E 35 ° C Cristalhyal 0.08 Structured water 7.92 F 30 ° C Antarctic with salicylic acid 4.00 Glycerolat of Tiare 1.00 G 30 ° C DERMIS 355905 0.10

Σ 100.00

P r z k ł a d 2

Serum

The product is an O / W emulsion intended for facial skin care. It contains anti-radicals and moisturizing substances, 1% solution of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in structured water, non-synthetic emulsifier, mild preservative free of parabens, formaldehydes and their derivatives.

Organoleptic characteristics (consistency, color, smell, spreadability, speed of absorption through the skin) have been approved by KosMeD Danuta Nowicka through consultations of subsequent product versions.

Shelf life is 6 months from the production date, taking into account refrigerated storage.

PL 227 119 B1

Recipe

Phase trade name Percentage A, 75 ° C Structured water 48.25 Phytic acid 50% solution 0.10 Fukocert 4.00 Glycerine 3.00 Xanthan gum 0.30 B 75 ° C Olivia 1000 4.00 Oli wax LC 2.00 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.00 Hydracire S 4.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 6.00 Passionflower oil 2.00 LexFeel Natural 4.00 Inca Omega Oil 3.00 C 50 ° C Lexgard Natural 1.00 D 45 ° C Herbex resverol 0.5 3.00 E 35 ° C Cristalhyal 0.08 Structured water 7.92 F 30 ° C Ellage-C 2.00 Dragon's Blood 3.00 Glycerolat of Tiare 1.00 G 30 ° C OCZ CELANDON RED 0.25 H 30 ° C DERMIS 355905 0.10

Σ 100.00

P r z k ł a d 3

Day cream

The product is an O / W emulsion intended for day care of the face skin. It contains anti-radicals and moisturizing substances, 1% solution of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid in structured water, non-synthetic emulsifier, mild preservative free of parabens, formaldehydes and their derivatives.

Organoleptic characteristics (consistency, color, smell, spreadability, speed of absorption through the skin) have been approved by KosMeD Danuta Nowicka through consultations of subsequent product versions.

Shelf life is 6 months from the production date, taking into account refrigerated storage.

Recipe

Phase trade name Percentage A75 ° C Structured water 53.00 Phytic acid 50% solution 0.10 Fukocert 3.00 Glycerine 3.00 Xanthan gum 0.30 B75 ° C Kappa Emulium II 6.00 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.50 Hydracire S 5.00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 6.00 Passionflower oil 2.00

PL 227 119 B1

LexFeel Natural 4.00 Inca Omega Oil 2.00 C 50 ° C Lexgard Natural 1.00 D 45 ° C Herbex resverol 0.5 2.00 E 35 ° C Cristalhyal 0.08 Structured water 7.92 F 30 ° C Kizis 2.00 Glycerolat of Tiare 1.00 G 30 ° C DERMIS 355905 0.10

Σ 100.00

P r z k ł a d 4

An example of a night cream

The following phase names refer to the phase names used in the recipe.

The Phase A components were added to an appropriate amount of structured water, the xanthan gum was dissolved in glycerin before being combined with water. The entire Phase A was heated to 75 ° C with stirring. The Phase B ingredients were heated to 75 ° C with stirring. After both phases had reached 75 ° C, they were combined by adding Phase B to Phase A. After combining, stirring was carried out for a while and then homogenization was started. The homogenized mass was cooled to 50 ° C while stirring and the Phase C component (Lexgard Natural) was added, mixed for a while and homogenization was started. Cooling was continued with stirring continued. After the mass reached 45 ° C, the Phase D component (Herbex resverol) was added, mixed, homogenized, cooling further. The premixed Phase E ingredients were added at 35 ° C, then mixed, homogenized and cooled to 30 ° C. Thereafter, the Phase F components were added sequentially with thorough mixing each time. Finally, the fragrance was added, mixed thoroughly and the whole mass was homogenized. The finished cream was cooled to 25 ° C and transferred to a tank to stabilize the mass. Dosing into unit packages was carried out after one day of stabilization.

P r z k ł a d 5

Example of making the serum

The Phase A components were added to an appropriate amount of structured water, the xanthan gum was dissolved in glycerin before being combined with water. The entire Phase A was heated to 75 ° C with stirring. The Phase B ingredients were heated to 75 ° C with stirring. After both phases had reached 75 ° C, they were combined by adding Phase B to Phase A. After combining, stirring was carried out for a while and then homogenization was started. The homogenized mass was cooled to 50 ° C while stirring and the Phase C component (Lexgard Natural) was added, mixed for a while and homogenization was started. Cooling was continued with stirring continued. After the mass reached 45 ° C, the Phase D component (Herbex resverol) was added, mixed, homogenized, with further cooling. The premixed Phase E ingredients were added at 35 ° C, then mixed, homogenized and cooled to 30 ° C. Thereafter, the Phase F components were added sequentially with thorough mixing each time. After the added ingredients were thoroughly mixed, homogenization was started and then the Phase G ingredient (KTZ CELANDON RED) was added and mixed again thoroughly until a uniform color was obtained, then homogenized. Finally, the fragrance was added, mixed thoroughly and the whole mass was homogenized. The finished cream was cooled to 25 ° C and transferred to a tank to stabilize the mass. Dosing into unit packages was carried out after one day of stabilization.

P r z k ł a d 6

An example of making a day cream

The following phase names refer to the phase names used in the recipe.

The Phase A components were added to an appropriate amount of structured water, the xanthan gum was dissolved in glycerin before being combined with water. The entire Phase A was heated to 75 ° C with stirring. The Phase B ingredients were heated to 75 ° C with stirring. After both phases had reached 75 ° C, they were combined by adding Phase B to Phase A. After combining, stirring was carried out for a while and then homogenization was started. The homogenized mass was cooled to 50 ° C while stirring and the Phase C component (Lexgard Natural) was added, mixed for a while and homogenization was started. Cooling was continued with stirring continued. Once the mass was 45 ° C, the Phase D component was added

(Herbex resverol) was mixed, homogenized, with further cooling. The premixed Phase E ingredients were added at 35 ° C, then mixed, homogenized and cooled to 30 ° C. Thereafter, the Phase F components were added sequentially with thorough mixing each time. Finally, the fragrance was added, mixed thoroughly and the whole mass was homogenized. The finished cream was cooled to 25 ° C and transferred to a tank to stabilize the mass. Dosing into unit packages was carried out after one day of stabilization.

The effectiveness of the products containing the active complex of structured water with hyaluronic acid was tested using the bioinstrumental assessment of the effectiveness of the cosmetic product - short-term measurement - dermostica effect rapid.

The aim of the study was to compare the activity of 2 active complexes based on hyaluronic acid, prepared with the use of WS structural water and WD demineralized water.

Both tested complexes were introduced into emulsions having the same composition (declared by the Principal), i.e. Aqua, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Candelilla / Jojoba / Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Estars and Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Heptyl Undecylenate, Glycer Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl Undecylenate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate.

The conducted bioinstrumental study of the dermostica effect rapid of two products was aimed at comparing the effectiveness of two active complexes based on WS structural water and WD demineralized water. The products were assessed in terms of their impact on the three main parameters of the skin, directly related to its condition, i.e. skin hydration, the level of transepidermal water loss and related SSWL (indicating the skin's ability to accumulate water), and skin smoothness. In addition to the bio-instrumental evaluation, the test participants were asked to express their subjective opinion on the tested products in terms of their absorption and moisturizing. Bioinstrumental studies have shown the activity of both assessed complexes. The base products containing the complexes ensured an increase in skin hydration, an effect on the level of TEWL and a smoothing effect. As for the last two skin parameters assessed, there was no significant difference between the products containing the two different complexes. The fluctuations recorded during the measurements, i.e. from 0 to 240 minutes, can be considered as physiological changes in the condition of the skin as an organ in which naturally running life processes take place. As for the moisturizing effect of the assessed active complexes, there was an instrumental difference in the level of skin hydration compared to the product whose complex was based on WS structural water. This advantage was most noticeable for the time of 60 minutes from application and amounted to CU7.15. in relation to the level of hydration of the skin to which the product containing the complex based on demineralized water was applied. In the course of further measurements (i.e. up to 240 minutes), the above-mentioned the difference was losing its importance, approaching much lower values, which, as in the case of the two previously discussed parameters, may be physiological changes. However, when it comes to the subjective opinion of the probands about the tested products, they did not notice the instrumentally noted difference. They rated a product containing a complex based on demineralized water slightly higher than on structured water. It should be emphasized, however, that the assessment of probants is a subjective assessment.

The selection of probes was carried out in accordance with the internal procedure D / RP / 001 of the Dermostica Institute and the Helsinki Declaration of 1964 (with later additions), Polish regulations, COLIPA guidelines, using the inclusion and exclusion criteria.

Ten women aged 45 to 72 participated in the study, with the average age being 58.7 years. All the test subjects had dry skin.

Bioinstrumental Effectiveness Assessment of a cosmetic product - short-term measurement - dermostica effect rapid

The study was conducted on the basis of the internal research procedures of dermostica institute and concerned the following scope of the tested cosmetic product:

a) Dermostica effect rapid - moisture measurement - D / BOED / DR-1,

b) Dermostica effect rapid - TEWL measurement - D / BOED / DR-3,

c) Dermostica effect rapid - smoothness measurement - D / BOED / DR-4.

a) Dermostica effect rapid - moisture measurement - D / BOED / DR-1.

The Corneometer CM 825 scientific and medical device by Courage + Khazaka was made in 0 to 240 minutes. Two 9 cm ² areas were marked on the inside _{2 of} the forearms of both hands in the group of test subjects. Field on one arm staple 227 119 B1 nowiło reference sample, and the box on the other hand exactly odmierzo ₂ was applied on a test quantity of a cosmetic product in an amount of 2 pg / cm, evenly distributing it. Before the application of the cosmetic product, the skin hydration parameter was measured in each field. Then, measurements were taken at 60-minute intervals, i.e. 4 times from the moment of application of the tested cosmetic product. The measurement results collected during the study for each time unit gave the arithmetic mean for all probants.

b) Dermostica effect rapid - TEWL measurement - D / BOED / DR-3

Made with the scientific and medical device Tewameter TM 300 by Courage + Khazaka with the use of Probeheater PR 100 stabilizing the temperature of the measuring head. Measurements were taken from 0 to 240 minutes. Involved in the test group was set at ₂ probantek an inner forearm of both hands two areas measuring 9 cm ² each. Golf on one arm in an attempt to reference, and in the box on the other hand were applied ₂ is not accurate measured amount of cosmetic product tested at 2 pg / cm ^2, evenly distributing it. Before the application of the cosmetic product, the skin TEWL was measured in each field. Then, measurements were taken at 60-minute intervals, i.e. 4 times from the moment of application of the tested cosmetic product. The measurement results collected during the study for each time unit gave the arithmetic mean for all probants.

c) Dermostica effect rapid - smoothness measurement - D / BOED / DR-4

Made with the scientific and medical device Frictiometer FR 700 by Courage + Khazaka in 0 to 60 seconds. A 9 cm ² area was marked on the inside _{2 of} the forearm of the group of test subjects. Then, the smoothness of the skin surface within the designated area was measured by successively applying the test product to it in the amount of ₂ pg / cm ² , evenly distributing it. Another measurement of the skin surface was performed 60 seconds after the application. The measurement results collected during the study for each time unit gave the arithmetic mean for all probants.

Measurements were made in closed rooms in controlled microclimatic conditions, i.e. temperature 20-22 ° C and air humidity 40-60%.

Presentation of the research results for the complex with structural water WS.

a) Dermostica effect rapid - moisture measurement - D / BOED / DR-1.

Instrumental examination of skin hydration performed on the skin of the forearm during 0 to 240 minutes showed an immediate (i.e. after 60 minutes from the application of the product) moisturizing effect of the tested product. After 60 minutes from the application, the average hydration of the test area increased by 35.13% in relation to the hydration of the skin in the control area untreated with the tested product. In the further course of the measurements, skin hydration increased, reaching the highest level 180 minutes after the product was applied to the skin. The mean percentage increase in hydration after 180 minutes was 50.75%, then reduced to 48.24%. The mean values of hydration levels and the mean percent increases in skin hydration are presented in the graphs (Figs. 1, 2).

b) Dermostica effect rapid - TEWL measurement - D / BOED / DR-3

TEWL apparatus examination performed on the skin of the forearm during 0 to 240 minutes showed a slight influence of the tested product on the barrier functions of the skin and the related reduction of the level of transepidermal water loss. After 60 minutes from the application of the product, the average difference in TEWL values for the surface area treated with the product compared to the surface area constituting the reference sample was - 7.12%. After 120, 180 and 240 minutes, the mean differences in TEWL values were: - 9.31 / - 9.74 / - 9.98%. The obtained results prove the positive influence of the tested product on the natural skin barriers, at the same time confirming the very good skin tolerance of the product. The mean TEWL levels of value and the mean percent levels of TEWL reduction are presented in the graphs (Figures 3, 4).

c) Dermostica effect rapid - smoothness measurement - D / BOED / DR-4

Instrumental examination of the skin smoothness performed on the skin of the forearm showed an immediate smoothing effect on the part of the applied product. The smoothness of the skin at the application site increased on average by 88.85% compared to its original state prior to the application of the product. The mean percent increase in skin smoothness is plotted (Fig. 5).

PL 227 119 B1

Testimonials' opinion on the product containing the tested complex after a single application to the skin.

The graph in Fig. 6 shows the average product score by probants for two specific traits. Rating on a scale of 1 to 5.

Presentation of the research results for the complex with demineralized WD.

a) Dermostica effect rapid - moisture measurement - D / BOED / DR-1

Instrumental examination of skin hydration performed on the skin of the forearm during 0 to 240 minutes showed an immediate (i.e. after 60 minutes from the application of the product) moisturizing effect of the tested product. After 60 minutes from the application, the average hydration of the test area increased by 27.98% in relation to the hydration of the skin in the control area untreated with the tested product. In the further course of the measurements, skin hydration increased successively and the difference in hydration between the examined area and the reference area was the greatest after 180 minutes and amounted to 46.79%. The mean value levels of hydration and the mean percent increases in skin hydration are presented in the graphs (Figs. 7, 8).

b) Dermostica effect rapid - TEWL measurement - D / BOED / DR-3

TEWL apparatus test performed on the skin of the forearm during 0 to 240 minutes showed the effect of the tested product on the barrier functions of the skin and the associated reduction of the level of transepidermal water loss. After 60 minutes from the application of the product, the average difference in TEWL values for the surface area treated with the product versus the surface area constituting the reference sample was - 8.06%. After 120, 180 and 240 minutes, the mean differences in TEWL values were: - 10.45 / - 10.02 / - 10.29%. The obtained results prove the influence of the tested product on the natural skin barriers and correlate with the increase in skin hydration. The mean TEWL levels of value and the mean percent levels of TEWL reduction are presented in the graphs (Figs. 9, 10).

c) Dermostica effect rapid - smoothness measurement - D / BOED / DR-4

Instrument test of skin smoothness performed on the skin of the forearm showed an immediate smoothing effect on the skin of the applied product. The smoothness of the skin at the application site increased on average by 87.97% compared to its original state prior to the application of the product. The percent increase in skin smoothness is shown in the graph (Fig. 11).

Comparative analysis of the complex with WS structured water and the complex with demineralized water WD

Assessment of the moisturizing potential of the complex with structural water WS and the complex with demineralized water WD

The instrumental test of the dermostica effect rapid showed a moderately stronger moisturizing potential of the product containing the complex with WD structural water. The average difference in the level of hydration of the skin area treated with the complex with structured water compared to the skin treated with the complex with demineralized water was 7.15 CU. This difference concerned only the first measurement, i.e. after 60 minutes from the moment of applying the products with complexes to the skin. In the course of further measurements, the percentage difference decreased to a level that can be taken as a physiological difference (Fig. 12).

The graph in Fig. 13 shows the mean percent difference in skin hydration after application of the tested WS complexes vs. WD.

Assessment of the reducing potential TEWL of the complex with structural water WS and the complex with demineralized water WD

The instrumental examination of the dermostica effect rapid did not notice any significant difference in the effect of the compared complexes on the skin in terms of the modulation of the TEWL level. The obtained results of instrumental measurements are similar and they indicate changes of physiological nature in the skin rather than the influence of one of the complexes assessed on the tested parameter. An additional goal of TEWL measurements was to show differences in the SSWL after the application of individual complexes, but this parameter also showed slight fluctuations. On the other hand, the obtained results show a very good skin tolerance of the assessed complexes, i.e. their good absorption and no interference with the structure of the skin's hydrolipid coat (Figs. 14, 15).

PL 227 119 B1

Assessment of the skin smoothing potential of the complex with structural water WS and the complex with demineralized water WD

The instrumental examination of dermostica rapid showed a smoothing effect on the part of both assessed complexes. The recorded difference in the results is very slight and amounts to only 0.88%, therefore it cannot be assumed that the type of the medium used in the complex had an influence on the level of the results obtained for this parameter due to the insufficient difference in the instrumental measurements (Fig. 16, 17).

The bioinstrumental study of the dermostica effect rapid of two products containing the active complex, based on WS structural water and WD demineralized water, showed an advantage in the skin moisturizing potential in favor of the complex based on WS structural water. At the same time, it did not show a difference for the other parameters assessed.

Claims (5)

1. A cosmetic composition containing hyaluronic acid in a form suitable for application to the skin, a cosmetic carrier, excipients and water, characterized in that the water is in the form of structured water and is a complex with hyaluronic acid, the concentration of hyaluronic acid being in the range 0.001 -25%, while the ratio of structured water to hyaluronic acid is in the range of 75-0.999%, additionally contains a preservative, the complex of structured water with hyaluronic acid has TEWL limiting properties by at least 20% greater than with distilled or demineralized water, and hyaluronic acid It has a molecular weight of less than 1.6601 x 10 ^-24 kg. 2. A composition according to claim 1 1, characterized in that it additionally contains Montanov 68 (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside) in the amount of 1 to 10%, Oli wax LC (cetyl palmitate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan monooleate) in the amount of 1 to 10%, cetyl stearyl alcohol in the amount of 1 to 10%, Hydracire S (jojoba waxes, acacia, sunflower) in the amount of 1 to 10%, Chemyforest Cupuacu CG (cocoa oil Theobroma grandiflorum) in the amount of 1 to 10%, caprylic / capric triglyceride in the amount of 1 up to 10%, pasiflora oil in the amount of 1 to 10%, LexFeel Natural (monoester of caprylic acid, monoester of undecyl acid) in the amount of 1 to 10%, Inca Omega oil (almond oil Plukenetia Volubilis) in the amount of 1 to 10% . 3. A composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it additionally contains Olivem 1000 (esters of fatty acids from olive oil, sorbitan and cetearyl alcohol) in an amount from 1 to 10%, Oli wax LC (cetyl palmitate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan monooleate) in an amount from 1 to 10%, cetyl stearyl alcohol in the amount of 1 to 10%, Hydracire S (jojoba, acacia, sunflower waxes) in the amount of 1 to 10%, caprylic / capric triglyceride in the amount of 1 to 10%, pasiflora oil in the amount of 1 to 10%, LexFeel Natural (caprylic acid monoester, undecyl acid monoester) in the amount of 1 to 10%, Inca Omega oil (Plukenetia Volubilis almond oil) in the amount of 1 to 10%. 4. A composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it additionally contains Emulium Kappa II (esters of polyglycerols from jojoba, chamomile, rice, sodium stearoyl lactate) in an amount from 1 to 10%, cetyl stearyl alcohol in an amount from 1 to 10%, Hydracire S (jojoba waxes, acacia, sunflower seeds) 1 to 10%, caprylic / capric triglyceride 1 to 10%, pasiflora oil 1 to 10%, LexFeel Natural (caprylic acid monoester, undecyl acid monoester) 1 to 10% , Inca Omega oil (Plukenetia Volubilis almond oil) in an amount of 1 to 10%. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is an O / W emulsion intended for the care of the skin of the face and body and is a day or night preparation.