JP2005289995A - Oil/water type cosmetic composition manufactured using polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a skin-moisturizing emollient cosmetic which increases water holding property in the skin, can prevent dryness in the skin, keep moisturizing action for a long time by water resistance, is excellent in softening action to smooth the skin, and has considerably high skin stability. <P>SOLUTION: The O/W type cosmetic which is manufactured using a vegetative polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as a polyethyleneglycol (PEG)-free emulsifier, and a manufacturing process thereof, are provided. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a skin moisturizing soft cosmetic containing an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion). More specifically, it contains a PEG-free plant polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate emulsifier that does not contain PEG (polyethylene glycol) to prevent skin dryness by enhancing the moisture content of the skin. The present invention relates to a cosmetic that has an excellent moisturizing effect and extremely high skin stability.

  In general, during the production of an emulsion, an emulsifier that adsorbs at the water-oil interface and significantly reduces the interfacial tension is used. There are many types of emulsifiers, but these are commonly shared by hydrophilic groups that have an affinity for water and hydrophobic groups that have no affinity for water (hydrophobic group). ). The hydrophobic group generally consists of a hydrocarbon group. The emulsifier has hydrophilicity or lipophilicity determined by the relative strength of the properties of the hydrophilic group and the lipophilic group, and this is called HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance). Usually, emulsifiers with a HLB value range of 4-6 are used for water-in-oil (W / O emulsion) emulsions, and emulsifiers with a HLB value range of 8-18 are used for oil-in-water emulsions.

  Conventionally, PEG emulsifiers having an HLB value adjusted to about 12 to 14 are generally applied to oil-in-water emulsions. Such a PEG-based emulsifier has an advantage that it is inexpensive, but the emulsifier itself causes an irritating reaction to the skin, and an emulsion containing such an emulsifier may cause skin irritation. Also, oil-in-water emulsions composed of PEG-based emulsifiers with HLB values adjusted to about 12 to 14 have almost no water resistance, so when applied to hands and then washed with water, they are easily washed away. Therefore, there is a disadvantage that it is easily detached from the skin by sweat, sebum, etc., and the moisturizing feeling is not maintained for a long time. In addition, the emulsion using the PEG-based emulsifier does not give a smooth feeling of use, is bulky, and has a very poor skin softening effect.

  In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have excellent moisture-containing ability, excellent moisture retention due to water resistance, and have soft extensibility and smooth feeling of use, so that the skin softening effect and skin stability are achieved. An attempt was made to produce a skin moisturizing and flexible cosmetic with excellent properties.

  As a result, when an emulsion is produced using PEG-free plant-based polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as an emulsifier, the water-containing ability is enhanced and the skin can be prevented from being dried. It has been found that a moisturizing effect can be maintained for a long time and not only a softening effect for smoothing the skin but also a very high skin stability can be produced, and the present invention has been completed.

  That is, the objective of this invention is providing the emulsion and cosmetics manufactured using the polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate emulsifier.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic that can enhance the moisture content of the skin, prevent the skin from drying, and can maintain a moisturizing effect for a long time due to water resistance. is there.

  It is still another object of the present invention to provide a skin moisturizing and flexible cosmetic material that has an excellent softening effect for smoothing the skin and has extremely high skin stability.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing an emulsion using polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as an emulsifier, and a method for producing a cosmetic containing the emulsion.

  The present invention provides a cosmetic produced using polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as an emulsifier. The cosmetic preferably has the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

  Said cosmetics are in particular produced as skin moisturizing and softening cosmetics. More preferably, the cosmetic is very suitable for a moisturizing keratin improving cosmetic.

  The cosmetic according to the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method for producing a general cosmetic except that polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate is used as an emulsifier.

  In the cosmetic, the emulsifier is preferably contained in an amount of 0.5% by weight to 5.0% by weight with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic.

  The cosmetic according to the present invention can enhance the moisture content ability of the skin, prevent the skin from drying, and can maintain the moisturizing effect for a long time due to water resistance. Moreover, it is excellent in the softening effect that smoothes the skin, has very high skin stability, and is useful as a skin moisturizing and softening cosmetic.

  The said cosmetics concerning this invention can show the outstanding moisturizing effect by using only a single emulsifier, without using polyethyleneglycol (PEG). That is, polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate, which is an emulsifier according to the present invention, is a vegetable raw material and does not contain polyethylene glycol (PEG). In the present invention, “PEG-free” means that the polyethylene glycol is not included.

  As a result, when the cosmetic according to the present invention is produced, it is possible to emulsify with polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate alone without mixing a hydrophilic or lipophilic emulsifier. Since the kind of emulsifier can be simplified when manufacturing a product, it is possible to manufacture cosmetics more efficiently.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate is a component obtained by condensation polymerization of methyl glucose and polyglycerin-3 and then by stearic acid and di-ester reaction, and is a skin conditioning agent In general, it is used as a surfactant, that is, an emulsifier. The following reaction formula shows the reaction for obtaining polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.

  In general, emulsifiers reduce the interfacial energy so that when there is a large tension at the interface that occurs when two phases in different states contact, they are adsorbed around the interface and minimize the free energy of the overall system. It will be arranged in the direction of decreasing. In other words, the emulsifier molecules that have moved to the interface where water and oil are in contact reduce the interfacial tension and stabilize the droplets by relocating the hydrophilic group in the water direction and the hydrophobic group in the oil direction. To play a role.

  Conventionally, emulsifiers used to produce oil-in-water emulsions can be classified as follows. That is, examples of the hydrophilic PEG emulsifier having an HLB value of 15 to 17 include polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, and PEG-40 stearate. Examples of the lipophilic PEG emulsifier having an HLB value of 3 to 5 include sorbitan stearate. And sorbitan sesquioleate. A PEG-based emulsifier in which the HLB value is adjusted to about 12 to 14 by mixing these lipophilic emulsifiers and hydrophilic emulsifiers is generally applied.

  Such a PEG emulsifier has a high possibility of causing an irritating reaction to the skin in the test of the raw material itself. In addition, an oil-in-water emulsion composed of a PEG-based emulsifier with an HLB value adjusted to about 12 to 14 has almost no water resistance. Therefore, when it is applied to the hand and washed with water, it is easily washed away. It is easily removed from the skin by sweat, sebum, etc., and the skin moisturizing effect is poor because the moisturizing feeling is not maintained for a long time. In addition, the skin feeling is inferior and the skin softening effect is inferior.

  In contrast, the oil-in-water cosmetic according to the present invention improves skin stability by using plant-derived polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate having PEG-free properties as an emulsifier. It is possible to increase the water content ability and prevent the skin from being dried, and the moisture retention ability can be maintained for a long time due to water resistance. Moreover, since it has a soft stretch spreadability and a smooth feeling of use, it has an excellent skin softening effect.

  If PEF-free polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate is used as an emulsifier, the moisture-containing ability can be enhanced, the skin can be prevented from drying, and a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent moisturizing effect can be produced. Also, a cosmetic comprising a conventional PEG-based emulsifier by providing a cosmetic that maintains a moisturizing effect due to water resistance, improves the skin stratum corneum, smoothes the skin, and has high skin stability and emulsion stability. The problems of low moisturizing effect, poor stretchability, bulky feeling of use and skin irritation can be solved.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples.

<Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3> Production of moisturizing cosmetics The emulsifier used in this example is polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate derived from natural plant, and PEG is polymerized. PEG-free properties, HLB value of about 12, and supplied by Degussa Care Specialites, Germany.

  In Examples 1 and 2, polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate was used as an emulsifier, and a cosmetic containing an active ingredient for moisturizing (Table 1) was produced.

  For comparison, as a conventionally used emulsifier, a polysorbate 60 with an HLB of 14.9 and a sorbitan stearate content with an HLB of 4.7 are blended at a ratio of 3: 1, and the HLB value is about 12 Emulsifier adjusted to .35 (Comparative Examples 1 and 2) and PEG-40 stearate with HLB of 16.9 and sorbitan stearate were blended at 3: 2 to adjust the HLB value to 12.02. A cosmetic was produced using an emulsifier (Comparative Example 3).

Specific cosmetic compositions are shown in Table 1 below. The unit is% by weight.

[Production method]
(1) It heated to 70 degreeC, mixing the oil phase component of Examples 1, 2 and Comparative Examples 1-3 uniformly.
(2) After heating the aqueous phase components of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 to 70 ° C., the oil phase component of (1) above was added with stirring, and Examples 1, 2 and The cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were obtained.

<Test Example 1> Moisturizing effect The skin moisturizing effect of the cosmetics of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 manufactured based on the composition of Table 1 was measured.
50 males and females in their 50s and 60s showing dry skin were divided into 5 groups, and the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 2-3 and Example 2 were applied to the face twice daily for 4 weeks for each group. . Before application start, after 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks after application, and after 2 weeks (6 weeks in total) when application was stopped, under constant temperature and humidity conditions (24 ° C, relative humidity 40%) Then, the moisture content of the skin was measured with a conometer. The coniometer is a skin moisture measuring machine that measures the electrical conductivity of the epidermis and measures the amount of moisture present in the skin.

Based on the coniometer value measured immediately before the start of the test, the increment of the measured value after application for the predetermined period was displayed as a percentage, and the average was taken from the number of personnel to determine the moisturizing effect.
The results are shown in Table 2.

  As can be seen from Table 2, the amount of skin moisture in the group applied with the substance of Example 2 consisting of polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate emulsifier was higher than that in the group applied with Comparative Examples 2 and 3 consisting of PEG emulsifier. Increased further. In addition, the value after 6 weeks when the skin moisture was measured 2 weeks after application of the test substance was close to the value after 1 to 2 weeks, and polyglyceryl-3-methyl was obtained without applying the test substance. It has been found that skin moisture is continuously maintained by applying a cosmetic comprising glucose distearate.

<Test Example 2> Skin softening effect by improvement of skin keratin The skin softening effect was measured using the cosmetics of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 manufactured based on the composition shown in Table 1 above.

Example 2 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 which were the above-described cosmetics were applied to a 3 × 3 cm ² area on the inner side of the lower arm of the right arm for 20 adult women in their 50s who had dry skin. Later, the skin softening effect was measured.

  Specifically, the inner side of the lower eyelid defined in the test site was washed with mild palm soap, and was subjected to initial measurement after being applied in a constant temperature and humidity room for 20 minutes with the inner skin exposed. In addition, after applying twice a day for 2 weeks, D-Sqaumedisc was attached to the site where the test was performed, and the keratin was collected. The disc from which the keratin was collected was attached to a black storage card, and the image obtained with the Hi-scope was input to the analyzer for image analysis. Image analysis was performed by comparing and analyzing the front and back values of the total horny area in consideration of the correlation between the total horny area (the total horny layer collected at the horny average area) and dry skin. (Reference: Serup, J., Winther, A simple method for the study of scale pattern and effect of a moisturizer-clin. Exp. Dermatol, 14, 277, 1989, etc.).

The measured values of 20 people were averaged and shown in Table 3 below.
Moreover, the image analysis photograph was shown to Fig.1 (a)-FIG.1 (d).

  From the experimental results in Table 3 above, when comparing the change in angular mass before sample application and after 2 weeks of sample application, when the sample of Example 2 was applied compared to Comparative Examples 2 and 3, the angular mass was larger. You can see that it has decreased.

  Further, as a result of image analysis of the skin keratin surface before and after application, it was confirmed from FIGS. 1A to 1D that the skin was improved by application of Example 2. That is, it can be seen that the cosmetic according to Example 2 has an improved skin and becomes a softer and smoother skin.

<Test Example 3>
Usability evaluation In order to compare the feeling of use of the cosmetics of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 produced based on the composition of Table 1, 60 external consumers whose average age is 28.5 years old A questionnaire survey on the feeling of use was conducted. The investigation method was conducted by selecting a preference (good or bad) for each item from 1 to 9 points. And the score for each item was averaged, and the results are shown in Table 4.

1 ------------------------------------------------- 9
Very bad middle very good

  As can be seen from Table 4, Comparative Examples 2 and 3 can be understood from the scores in Table 4 that the stretchability is poor, the absorption is bulky, and the moist feeling after absorption is low. Moreover, Example 2 which is the cosmetic of the present invention has a soft stretch spreadability, has a high moist feeling, and can be verified by evaluation of usability that the skin becomes very smooth after absorption. did it.

<Test Example 4> Evaluation of Emulsification Stability In order to evaluate the emulsion stability of the cosmetic of the present invention and conventional cosmetics, the cosmetics produced in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were compared with 4 to 4. The degree of phase separation was measured at a temperature change of 45 ° C., and the results are shown in Table 5.

The measuring method of the degree of phase separation was evaluated using a cycling test, with a grade of stable, slightly unstable and unstable.

  As can be seen from Table 5, it can be seen that Example 2 in which the content of PEG-free polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate is 2.0% by weight is the most stable. Also, in Example 1 where the polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate content was relatively low at 1.0% by weight, it was very stable regardless of temperature.

  In contrast, the emulsification stability of Comparative Example 1 in which the total content of PEG-based emulsifier is 1.0% by weight is unstable at a high temperature of 45 ° C., phase separation is observed, and the total content of PEG-based emulsifier Was 2.0 wt% (Comparative Examples 2 and 3), it was observed that the temperature was slightly unstable at 45 ° C., which is a high temperature.

  Therefore, it can be seen that the cosmetic of the present invention is stable in emulsification even when a low concentration of the emulsifier is used, compared to the cosmetic of the prior art.

<Test Example 5> Water resistance test In order to perform a water resistance test easily, cosmetics were produced by the same method as the production method of Table 1 based on the composition of Table 6 below. Example 4 was used.

In Table 6 below, silica is in the form of a powder containing about 3.0% by weight, and is in a state of being pre-dispersed in the aqueous phase component.

Each of the cosmetics of Comparative Example 4 and Example 3 was applied by spreading 3 g on a 4 × 7 cm rectangular glass plate and dried for 20 minutes. Then, the dried glass plate was immersed in each beaker filled with water, and after 10 minutes, the state in which the powder was dissolved in each beaker was visually observed.
The results are shown in Table 7.

  As can be seen from Table 7, the cosmetic comprising the PEG surfactant is easily dissolved in water, and the powder flows out. In contrast, it can be seen that the cosmetic of the present invention exhibits water resistance that is not easily dissolved in water. From this result, it can be seen that the cosmetic of the present invention has a mechanism for increasing the moisture content existing in the skin during the experiment of the moisturizing effect and maintaining the moisture content of the skin even after application for 4 weeks. Further, from this result, it is possible to expect a moisturizing effect that is maintained for a long time after applying the sample to the skin and a smooth moisturizing film applied to the skin.

<Test Example 6> Evaluation of skin safety In order to evaluate skin safety for each cosmetic, human body for 30 healthy men and women with respect to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention. A skin irritation test was performed. Specifically, after applying for 48 hours at a coating amount of 15 ml / chamber (Hay's chamber) on the inner side of the armpit, the adhesive was removed and inspected. The reaction test was performed 24 hours and 48 hours after removing the patch, based on ICDRG regulations, and the results are shown in Table 8.

  As can be seen from Table 8, in the case of PEG-free polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate, no matter whether the content is 1.0% by weight or 2.0% by weight, the skin is irritated. It was evaluated as not.

  On the other hand, in the case of Comparative Examples 2 and 3 comprising a PEG-based emulsifier, the total amount of the emulsifier is 2.0% by weight, which is not serious unlike 1.0% by weight which is the total amount of the emulsifier. However, it caused some stimulus response.

  Therefore, it was found that PEG-free polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate does not irritate the skin and has excellent skin safety.

It is a figure which shows the result of having image-analyzed the keratinous surface of the skin by the test example 2, Comprising: Fig.1 (a) is the surface of the skin before apply | coating the cosmetics concerning this invention, FIG.1 (b) FIG. 1C shows the surface of the skin coated with the cosmetic material according to Comparative Example 2, FIG. 1C shows the surface of the skin coated with the cosmetic material according to Comparative Example 3, and FIG. 1D shows the embodiment of the present invention. 2 is a surface of a skin to which a cosmetic material according to 2 is applied.

Claims (6)

A cosmetic composition not using a polyethylene glycol emulsifier,
A cosmetic composition produced by using polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as a single emulsifier.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic is an oil-in-water emulsion.   The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is contained in an amount of 0.5 wt% to 5.0 wt%.   The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cosmetic is for moisturizing or improving skin exfoliation.   A cosmetic composition for moisturizing skin or improving skin keratin, comprising polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate as a humectant.   A process for producing an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it is produced using polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate alone as an emulsifier.

Images