PL226013B1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Description

Description of the invention

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing biologically active compounds isolated from algae cells.

It is known to use algae extracts obtained from algae with the use of solvent extraction in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries.

US patent application US 20040131580 A1 describes a method of obtaining proteins or peptide hydrolysates from algae, which are a component of skin and hair cosmetics. In this solution, the biomass of algae, such as Porphyra, Undaria pinnatifida, Chlorella or Spirulina, after grinding, is subjected to enzymatic decomposition, acid or alkaline hydrolysis, pressure extraction or solvent extraction.

Another US application 2013/0053443 describes a pharmaceutical composition containing ω-3, 6 and 9 fatty acids extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide from Portulaca oleracea L. or perilla. The composition, enriched with nutrients, vitamins and minerals, is used in the treatment of hypercholesterolaemia. The dried and ground plant material is treated with the extractant at a pressure of 150 to 300 bar and a temperature of 20-70 ° C. The extracted mixture contains ω-3 fatty acids, including docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), dipicolinic acid (DPA), linolenic acid, stearidic acid (SDA) and eicosatetraenoic acid (ETA), ω-6 fatty acids, including linoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, and ω-9 fatty acids such as oleic acid. From US Patent No. 5,508,033 A, it is known to use Fucus vesiculosus algae extract as an anti-radical component in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, agricultural and food preparations. US Patent No. 6,375,552 relates to a method of extracting carotenoids, primarily lutein, intended for the treatment of eye diseases, from green plants under supercritical conditions. Extraction is made of fractions with a high content of chloroplasts, wet or dry, obtained from alfalfa, wheat grass and barley, broccoli, spinach, cabbage, savoy and fodder cabbage, green beans and green peas, soybeans, mustard, rapeseed. However, as the extractant, supercritical carbon dioxide, ethane, ethylene and nitrous oxide enriched with co-solvents are used to improve the efficiency of the process, which are methanol, ethanol, propylene carbonate, acetone, tetrahydrofuran, formic acid, propylene glycol or ethyl acetate. The pressure and temperature are adjusted to the assumed concentration of the desired product in the extract. The obtained products are either concentrated and purified on a packed column or crystallized from an appropriate medium.

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation containing Chlamydocapsa sp. Algae extract is known from the US patent US 8206721 B2, which has properties preventing skin aging due to the negative influence of a polluted environment. The method of producing the extract involves high-pressure homogenization prior to the actual extraction. The extracted biologically active compounds are stabilized on liposomes containing lipids and water-soluble cell fractions. In the patent application, under the PCT procedure No. WO 2008039515, Sarcodiotheca algae extracts having anti-aging properties useful in cosmetics are described. According to this solution, the dried Sarcodiotheca algae biomass is extracted with water and butylene glycol at room temperature under constant stirring, and the obtained extract is used after filtration. European patent EP0917876 concerns the extraction of natural products from plant material used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries. Extraction is carried out for 0.25-20 hours, under pressure from 50-500 bar, at a temperature below 80 ° C, with supercritical liquid solvents.

Taiwanese patent application TW201041 638 (A) describes a method of obtaining bioactive carotenoids from microalgae by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction with the addition of ethanol as a modifier. Dunaliella microalgae carotene extract using supercritical carbon dioxide described in Chinese Patent Application No. CN1044277 (A) contains 10-50% α-carotene, 10-20% cis-p-carotene and 60-80% trans-p-carotene and the extraction efficiency is 90%.

There is known from the Japanese patent application JP2009191008 (A) a method of extracting with supercritical bioactive fluids: fucoxanthin and fucosterol from brown algae, which allows for obtaining active substances with higher efficiency and in a shorter time compared to conventional methods. Another Japanese application JP2004041147 (A) relates to a method of extracting astaxanthin from Haematococcus algae by grinding the algae, destroying their cell walls, and extracting it with a fluid

And the separation of astaxanthin by reducing the pressure in the separation vessel. The method described in the Japanese patent application JPH0436209 (A) consists in the extraction of jasmonic acid from plants: Artemisia absinthium L., Jasminum officinale L. and microalgae: Euglena, Spirulina and Chlorella, with the use of supercritical carbon dioxide at a temperature of 32-100 ° C C, under the pressure of 73-200 atm., With the addition of ethanol. Jasmonic acid, intended for the cosmetics and food industries, was obtained with high efficiency. Yet another Japanese application No. JPH01226897 (A) describes a method of obtaining fucosterol from algae that is subjected to supercritical carbon dioxide treatment to isolate the sterols. Fucosterol is isolated with ethanol from the extract obtained.

In the composition which is the subject of the Korean application KR20120041404, the active ingredient is a peptide or a mixture of peptides isolated from fresh microalgae biomass. According to the method described in this application, the peptide fraction is separated from the ground microalgae biomass by centrifugation, and then the resulting supernatant is concentrated by ultrafiltration.

The composition known from the patent application WO0202642 intended for therapeutic use on wounded skin contains 2-5% of the extract obtained from Spirulina microalgae using carbon dioxide and as an equivalent active ingredient - antibodies from chicken egg yolk.

The cosmetic composition disclosed in patent application FR2555444 contains as active ingredient a spray-dried extract of Spirulina maxima microalgae with a high protein content.

The cosmetic composition improving the color and elasticity of the skin, according to the patent application KR20120095296, contains 0.001-10% by weight of macroalgae extract, preferably Laminaria digitata, or microalgae, preferably of the Spirulina genus, and / or sulforaphane isolated from cruciferous vegetables, as active ingredients supplementing the action of the dissolved oxygen as the main active ingredient in the composition.

The essence of the invention is a cosmetic composition containing from 0.1 to 25% by weight of biologically active compounds, extracted from microalgae of the Spirulina species type, and Baltic macroalgae of the Cladophora and Enteromorpha genera, using supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2), such as: polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) from the ω-3 group, in the form of α-linolenic acid (18: 3), eicosapentaenoic acid (20: 5) and docosahexaenoic acid (22: 6), from the ω-6 group, in the form of linoleic acid (18: 2) , γ-linolenic (18: 3), arachidonic (20: 4); and carotenoids such as: β-carotene, lutein, violaxanthin, neoxanthin, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin and myxoxanthophyll. In addition, the composition comprises 0.1-40% by weight of an emulsifier selected from the group consisting of: vegetable glycerol, glycerol stearate; jojoba seed oil (Simmondsia Chinensis), sucrose coco; methyl glucose sesquearate; decyl glucoside; gum tragacanth; orange fibers (Citrus aurantium var. sinensis), glycine cholate or hydroxyethyl cellulose. The composition also comprises 0.1-5% by weight of an antioxidant selected from the group consisting of: sodium ascorbate (E 301); mixture of tocopherols (vitamin E, E 306); octyl gallate (E 311); citric acid (E 330); L (+) - tartaric acid (E 334); coenzyme Q10; soybean seed extract (Glycine max (L.) Merr.), rich in polyphenols and flavonoids and 1-85% by mass of a mixture of vegetable oils or butters selected from the group consisting of: argan tree seed oil (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels) ; jojoba seed oil; Moringa oleifera seed oil; berry seed oil, including black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), red raspberry (Rubus idaeus), strawberries (Fragaria ananassa); papaya seed oil (Carica papaya); grape seed oil (grapevine proper, Vitis vinifera L.); large-fruited cranberry seed oil (Vaccinium macrocarpon); olive oil (Olea L.); Camellia oleifera seed oil; castor bean seed oil (Ricinus communis); Perilla seed oil (Perilla frutescens); amaranth seed oil (Amaranthus cruentus); pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita pepo); palm kernel oil (Elaeis guineensis); shea butter oil fraction; and butters such as Kpangnan Butter (Pentadesma Butyracea) and Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima).

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more excipients selected from the group consisting of: 0.1-30% by weight of a rheology modifier, such as: gum tragacanth, starch, green clay or hydroxyethyl cellulose, 1-25% by weight of a peeling material or exfoliant selected from the group consisting of: Dead Sea salt, malic, citric or tartaric acid, 1-40 wt.% surfactant, in the form of decyl glucoside or glycerol stearate, 0.1-5 wt.% preservative, 1-25 wt.% plant extract or maceration, 0 , 1-2% by weight of natural geranium oil, 1 -3.5% by weight of vitamin E, optionally up to 5% by weight of minerals such as potassium (K), phosphorus (P), iodine (I) or silicon (Si).

PL 226 013 B1

Preferably the preservative is selected from the group consisting of: pimaricin (E 235) and L-malic acid (E 296) and the plant extract or macerate is selected from the group consisting of: soybean extract; Carrot root macerate (Daucus carota) or comfrey root macerate (Symphytum officinalis).

The cosmetic composition in liquid, gel or solid form is characterized by moisturizing, regenerating, anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Biologically active compounds contained in the supercritical algae extract, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of which come from polyunsaturated fatty acids and dyes, give the composition valuable properties; the photoprotective and anti-aging properties are derived from dyes.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is suitable for combining with any antioxidants, emulsifiers, coemulsifiers, emollients, water binders, thickeners, active regenerating agents, vitamins, preservatives, pH regulators, moisturizers, colorants, fragrances in an aqueous or oily environment, producing skin and hair care products.

The composition, which is a source of natural biologically active compounds isolated from the cells of microalgae and macroalgae, is a desirable component in day moisturizing creams where the extract content is preferably 0.1-2% by weight, nighttime moisturizing creams where the extract content is preferably 0 , 1-2 wt.%, Eye creams, in which the extract content is preferably 0.1-2 wt.%, Night serums, in which the extract content is preferably 0.1-0.5 wt.%, Moisturizing masks , in which the extract content is preferably 0.1-10 wt.%, facial scrubs, in which the extract content is preferably 0.2-5 wt.%, after-shave and depilatory creams in which the extract content is preferably 0.1 -0.5 wt.%, Shaving mousses, the extract content of which is preferably 0.1-1 wt.%, Hair shampoos, the extract content of which is preferably 0.1-2 wt.%, Hair conditioners, in which the extract content is preferably 0.1-3 wt.%. , shower gels, the extract content of which is preferably 0.1-0.5% by weight, bath oils, the extract content of which is preferably 0.1-25% by weight, anti-acne and anti-scar preparations in which the extract content is preferably 1-12% by mass.

The advantage of the invention is the use of an extract of fully active biologically active substances devoid of organic solvent and ions of toxic elements. In extracts obtained with organic solvents, biologically active compounds are deactivated or destroyed and often contain residual organic solvents. In addition, in the case of solvent extraction, there is a possibility of toxic metals from algae collected from natural water reservoirs getting into the extract. Cosmetic components must be free of these elements, which provides carbon dioxide, which is highly selective, non-toxic and additionally acts as a preservative. The extract is easy to obtain, with good yield and concentration of biologically active compounds.

The advantage of the composition according to the invention is the use of natural biologically active substances found in algae cells in order to protect the skin and hair exposed to environmental pollution, tobacco smoke, and UV radiation.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention has been shown in the working examples.

Example 1

The cosmetic composition contains 10% by mass of Spirulina species extract obtained by extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide containing: linoleic acid, α- and γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, β-carotene, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin, myxoxanthophyll. Moreover, the composition includes: 5.0 wt.%. % glycerol, 4.0 wt. decyl glucoside, 2.5 wt.% % sucrose cocoate, 75 wt. an equilibrium mixture of oils: argan tree seeds, jojoba seeds, castor bean seeds and red raspberry seeds, 2.0 wt.%. vegetable soybean seed extract and 1.5% wt. vitamin E. The composition with a moisturizing, nourishing and regenerating effect is used as bath oils in an amount of 15 ml per bath volume.

Example 2

Composition as in example 1, with the difference that the extract containing: linoleic acid, α- and γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, β-carotene, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin, myxoxanthophyll, constitutes 25% by weight of the formulation, and in the composition of the oil mixture enters:

PL 226 013 B1

20% by mass of olive oil, 15% by mass grape seed oil, 15% wt. camellia oil seed oil and 10% wt. Perilla seed oil.

Example 3

The composition of the coarse peeling contains 0.1% by mass of the supercritical extract of the Baltic macroalgae of the genus Cladophora and Enteromorpha, containing: PUFAs, such as linoleic acid and α- and γ-linolenic acid, β-carotene, lutein, violaxanthin, neoxanthin, zeaxanthin, 10% % by weight of glycerol stearate, 2.5% by weight of green clay, 7.5% by weight of hydroxyethyl cellulose, 15% by weight of pumpkin seed oil, 10% wt. amaranth seed oil and 5 wt. avocado fruit butter, 1.0% wt. octyl gallate, 0.5 wt.% % of L-malic acid, 15 wt. Dead Sea salt and 2.0% by weight of geranium oil (Pelargonium Graveolens) and 31.4% by weight of demineralized water.

Example 4

The composition of the day cream contains 2.0% by weight of the supercritical Baltic macroalgae extract containing: PUFAs, such as linoleic acid and α- and γ-linolenic acid, β-carotene, lutein, violaxanthin, neoxanthin, zeaxanthin, 1.0% by weight of sesquistearate % methyl glucose, 0.3 wt.% orange fiber, 4.7 wt.% carrageenan, 15 wt.% from moringia oleifera seeds, 15% wt. papaya seed oil, 10% by mass of large cranberry seed oil, 4.5% by mass kpangnan butter, 1.8 wt.% % sodium ascorbate and 0.7 wt. coenzyme Q10, 0.3 wt.% pimaricin, 0.5 wt.% % iodine, 2.5 wt.% carrot root macerate and 41.7% by weight of demineralized water

Example 5

The cosmetic composition contains 6.0% by weight of Baltic macroalgae extract, containing: PUFAs, such as linoleic acid and α- and γ-linolenic acid, β-carotene, lutein, violaxanthin, neoxanthin, zeaxanthin, with 4.7% by weight. % of glycine cholate and 1.6 wt. gum tragacanth, 0.1 wt.% % starch, 42 wt.% an equilibrium mixture of oils: palm oil, black chokeberry, strawberry seed and shea butter oil fraction, 1.2 wt. % citric acid and 0.1 wt.% % of L (+) - tartaric acid, 7.5 wt. comfrey macerate, 1.1% wt. % phosphorus, 2.3 wt.% of potassium, 0.2 wt.% silicon and 33.2% by mass of demineralized water. A composition to be applied to cleansed face 2-3 times a week for 10-15 minutes. As a face mask with a moisturizing, normalizing and soothing effect.

Claims (4)

1. Cosmetic composition containing an extract of aquatic photosynthetic organisms, emulsifiers, antioxidants and fats, characterized in that it contains from 0.1 to 25% by weight of biologically active compounds, extracted from microalgae of the Spirulina species type, and Baltic macroalgae of the genus Cladophora and Enteromorpha, using supercritical carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ), such as: polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs): from the ω-3 group, in the form of α-linolenic acid (18: 3), eicosapentaenoic acid (20: 5) and docosahexaenoic acid (22: 6 ), of the group ω-6, in the form of linoleic acid (18: 2), γ-linolenic acid (18: 3) and arachidonic acid (20: 4); and carotenoids such as: β-carotene, lutein, violaxanthin, neoxanthin, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin and myxoxanthophyll, in addition, the composition contains 0.1-40% by weight of an emulsifier, such as: vegetable glycerol, glycerol stearate, jojoba seed oil (Simmondsia Chinensis ), sucrose coconate, methyl glucose sesquearate; decyl glucoside; gum tragacanth; orange fiber (Citrus aurantium var. sinensis), glycine cholate and hydroxyethyl cellulose, 0.1-5% by weight of an antioxidant selected from the group consisting of: sodium ascorbate (E 301); mixture of tocopherols (vitamin E, E 306); octyl gallate (E 311); citric acid (E 330); L (+) - tartaric acid (E 334); coenzyme Q10; soybean seed extract (Glycine max (L.) Merr.) rich in polyphenols and flavonoids, the composition further comprises 1-85% by weight of a mixture of vegetable oils or butters selected from the group consisting of; argan tree seed oil (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels); jojoba seed oil; Moringa oleifera seed oil; berry seed oil, including black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), red raspberry (Rubus idaeus), strawberries (Fragaria ananassa); papaya seed oil (Carica papaya); grape seed oil (grapevine proper, Vitis vinifera L.); large-fruited cranberry seed oil (Vaccinium macrocarpon); olive oil (Olea L.), Camellia oleifera seed oil, Castor seed oil (Ricinus communis), Perilla frutescens seed oil; amaranth seed oil (Amaranthus cruentus), pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita pepo); palm kernel oil (Elaeis guineensis); shea butter oil fraction; and such butters PL 226 013 B1 as: kpangnan butter from thought fruit (Pentadesma butyracea) and avocado butter (Persea gratissima). 2. A composition according to claim 1 The composition of claim 1, comprising one or more excipients selected from the group consisting of: 0.1-30% by mass of a rheology modifier such as: gum tragacanth; starch; green clay or hydroxyethytocellulose, 1.0-25% by weight of a peeling material or an exfolate selected from the group consisting of: Dead Sea salt, malic, citric or tartaric acid, 1-40% by weight of a surfactant such as: decyl glucoside or glycerol stearate, 0 1-5% by weight of preservative, 1-25% by weight of vegetable extract or macerate, 0.1-2% by weight of natural geranium oil, 0.1-10% by weight of vitamin E and possibly up to 5% by weight of minerals such as potassium (K), phosphorus (P), iodine (I) or silicon (Si). 3. A composition according to p. The composition of claim 1, wherein the preservative is selected from the group consisting of: pimaricin (E 235) and L-malic acid (E 296). 4. A composition according to p. The method of claim 1, wherein the plant extract or macerate is selected from the group consisting of: soybean seed extract, carrot root macerate (Daucus carota sativa) or comfrey root macerate (Symphytum officinalis).