KR940006066B1 - Skin makeup material - Google Patents

Abstract

A cell-protective skin cosmetic composition is characterized by containing at least one extract selected from Galla Rhois, Brassica juncea or Machili cortex. The extracts are prepared by extracting Galla Rhois, Brassica juncea or Machili cortex with water, ethanol or a mixture of them. Pref. the amount of the extracts from crude drug is 0.001-10 wt.%. The compsn. removes hazardous activated oxygen species.

Description

Skin cosmetics

The present invention relates to a formulation having a function of preventing and protecting aging of skin cells, and more particularly to cosmetics that prevent damage to skin cells from harmful free radicals.

The skin is composed of cells called cells, which are surrounded by cell membranes. In addition, the cell membrane is known to be involved in the lipid duplexes and proteins, and if the lipid components of the cell membrane to produce lipid peroxide due to some cause, the cell membrane can not perform the function of the cell membrane structurally and functionally damaged. Therefore, researches on natural antioxidants have been concentrated mainly as a means for suppressing the production of lipid peroxide in vivo. Studies on natural antioxidants include reports on the antioxidant activity of indole and polyphenolic compounds, flavonoids, spices, and maltol in ginseng. There are reports of antioxidant activity of ascorbic acid, vitamin B ₆ , vitamin D and vitamin E.

Recently, the research on the skin aging of oxygen has been rapidly progressed, and the research on the activation of oxygen, that is, the generation of harmful free radicals, is being conducted. Hazardous free radicals include superoxide (O ₂ ⁻ ), hydroxyl radical (.OH), and singlet oxygen (.O ₂ ). All of them are generated in a living system that requires oxygen to survive. They are more reactive than the oxygen in the ground state, and thus are easily reacted with proteins, nucleic acids, and the like.

Recently, facial pigmentation, wrinkles and various inflammatory diseases, one of the biggest concerns of women and cosmetic makers, are closely related to reactive oxygen species and also rapidly increase the melanin formation reaction of harmful reactive oxygen species. Niwa, Y. (1986), Fragrance Journal, No. 79, 89-99]. Among these free radicals, singletoxygens can be produced by enzymatic reactions via superoxide radicals in vivo as well as under the specific environment of photosynthesis and high energy irradiation, as well as phagocytosis of leukocytes [Krinsky, N.I. (1982), Pure and Appl. Chem., 51, 649] Sina immune stimulation [Klebanoff, S.J. (1980), Ann. Int. Med., 93, 480] has been shown to be involved in tissue inflammation, oxidative deterioration of cell membranes. Spots, freckles, etc. occur well in the exposed area, but the production of melanin, which forms spots, freckles, is an oxidation reaction. When active oxygen is present, melanin is formed in no time. When calculating the intensity of each wavelength of sunlight reaching the surface and the transmittance of the wavelength string skin, it is known that the harmfulness to UVA (320-400 nm) is greater than that of UVB (280-320 nm). In particular, active oxygen, which is a major cause of skin damage and melanin production by UV rays in the UVA region, has been reported as a singlet oxyjeon. From the old days in the treatment of blemishes and freckles, I learned that vitamin C and vitamin E are scavengers that remove free radicals including singlet oxyjeon. The main cause of skin cell damage caused by UV rays, especially UVA, is the most reactive singlet oxygen, which is known to cause degeneration of skin proteins and photocarcinogenesis when exposed to sunlight. It is understood as the main cause of skin aging.

The present inventors have been studying how to remove such harmful free radicals for many years, and found that there is a remarkable scavenging action of singletoxygen among several kinds of herbal medicines which have been widely used as herbal medicines since ancient times. By measuring the degree of photohemolysis on erythrocyte cells, the cytoprotective effect of the inventive drugs on cell membrane was demonstrated. Erythrocytes are optimal for use as the subject of aging studies of living cells by free radicals. Because erythrocyte membranes are structurally studied and new samples can be easily obtained, as a model of biological membranes, as a means of evaluating the effects on cell membranes of natural products, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics, or lipid peroxidation by free radicals on cell membranes, It is used as an object to understand protein damage and hemolysis mechanism.

Singletoxygen, which is the main cause of free radicals and skin cell damage, causes hemolysis by destroying cell membranes through lipid peroxidation and protein damage in the blood cell membrane.

When the present invention is described in detail, the present inventors examined the scavenging ability of harmful active oxygen against hundreds of herbal medicines used as herbal medicines, and thus, four herbal medicines, ie, quintet, Sun Yat-sen (仙藥), Gaji (, 子), It has been found that the thick and the mixture thereof have a cytoprotective effect against unusually high harmful free radicals and have been proved experimentally.

These four herbs have been widely used in herbal medicine. In other words, Galla Rhois is a bug house formed by stagnation of the aphid aphids on the leaves of Rhoisjavanica. If it is uneven, it has two or four irregular shapes or is broken. It is used as a convergent medicine for diarrhea and bleeding, and it has also been used for industrial purposes such as leather industry, fishing net protection and ink manufacturing. Gambir is a dry aquatic extract obtained from the leaves and sprigs of Uncaria gambir, which belongs to the genus, and has been used as a raw material for astringents and deadweight fresheners. Sinapis Semen is a dried seed of the Brassica juncea, a herb that belongs to the Cruciferaceae. It is used as a personal medicine, a topical stimulant, a foaming medicine, etc., and has an appetite stimulation and antiseptic effect. Mochili Cortex is a dried bark of Machilus thunbergii that has a aromatic odor and has been used in astringent swelling, pain, ovulation, diuresis and antitussives. According to a conventionally known patent (85 JP-147698, J62 010006-A), it is known that the gall bladder extract has a property of giving excellent skin whitening effect without causing side effects when applied to the skin. Substances are known to act as inhibitors of lipid peroxidation according to known patents (89 JP-064744, J02 243632-A). However, there have been no examples of specifically using these herbal medicines and mixtures thereof in cosmetics for the purpose of cytoprotective effect. Therefore, the present inventors have invented a new skin cosmetic using the cytoprotective effect of these herbal medicines.

Cytoprotective effect on the herbal medicines of the present invention was carried out through the red blood cell photohemolysis experiment. Studies on red blood cell hemolysis have been described in Lipid Peroxidation [Goldstein, B. D. and Harber, L. C. (1972), J. Clin. Invest., 51, 892; Roshchupkin, D. I., Pelenisyn, A. B., Potspenfe, A. Y., Talisky, V. V. and Vlakimirov, Y. A. (1975), Photochem. Photobiol., 21, 63], as a means of assessing the photosensitization of pharmaceutical or cosmetic additives (Kahn, G. and Fleisehaker, B. (1971) J. Imvest, Dermatol., 56, 85) and recently As a model to examine the effects of photohemolytic promoters of increasing interest on cellular membranes of cells [Piling, GA and Sibley, MT (1987) Photochem. Photobiol., 46, 39] or as an object to understand the mechanism of free radicals or photohemolysis of red blood cells [Michelson, AM and Durosay, P. (1987) Photochem, Photobiol., 25, 55] Is being studied.

However, the method of photohemolysis was different depending on the researcher, and there were many difficulties due to many factors affecting photohemolysis. The present inventors have established a method to compare quantitative results with high reproducibility by examining the photosensitizer, light irradiation time, erythrocyte concentration and the effects of ageing, post-incubation, and oxygen on photohemolysis. , TY, Lee, DH, and Park, SN (1987), Photochem Photobiol., 45 Supplement: 10s].

The herbal medicines used in the present invention are preferably washed to remove impurities mixed in the material before extraction. In addition, as a means for improving the yield of extraction, the material is finely ground in advance by a mill such as a roll mill, a grinding mill, or the like. Extraction is performed by adding 2 to 20 parts by weight, preferably 3 to 10 parts by weight of a single or mixed solvent, based on 1 part by weight of the herbal medicine, and a pressure of atmospheric pressure to 5 kg / cm 2, preferably a pressure of atmospheric pressure to 2 kg / cm 2 and 40 to 120 Extraction is carried out for 10 minutes to 24 hours, preferably 1 hour to 9 hours at a temperature of < RTI ID = 0.0 > In order to improve the efficiency of extraction, the extraction can be carried out in three to five times if necessary. If necessary, stir at 1,000 to 4,000 rpm with an azimixer. Practically extracting about 3 hours at a temperature of 60 to 80 ℃ at atmospheric pressure is advantageously divided three times. The extract obtained by extraction is separated from the solid by an operation such as filtration or centrifugation, and concentrated by appropriate means, for example, vacuum rotary evaporation or lyophilization, as necessary. Extraction can be used alone or in combination with water or polar organic solvents soluble in water such as methanol and ethanol. The amount of the polar organic solvent used is determined in consideration of the content of the target substance in the extract, but it is preferable that the ethanol concentration is 60 to 95% (v / v), for example, when ethanol is used as the solvent.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through examples.

Extraction Example 1.

Finely pulverize 100 g of well-dried gallnuts and place in an extractor equipped with a reflux condenser. Add 500 ml of 95% ethanol to it, warm it at 60 ° C for 1 hour, cool it, extract the filtrate, and add 500 ml of 95% ethanol to 70 ° C. Extracted and filtered with aziger for 1 hour at. Each extract was combined and concentrated under reduced pressure with a vacuum rotary evaporator to obtain a residue of about 2.3 g.

[Extraction Example 2.]

Put 50g of 50g and 50g of barley in an extractor with cooling reflux, add 400ml of 80% ethanol and extract filtration three times at 70 ℃ for 1 hour. Combine all the filtrates and concentrate under reduced pressure with a vacuum rotary evaporator. A residue was obtained.

[Extraction Example 3.]

600 ml of ethanol and 600 ml of distilled water were added to a round flask containing 120 g of barley and 120 g of thick gourd, followed by extraction with a reflux for 24 hours. After extraction, the filtrates were combined and concentrated by vacuum rotary evaporator to obtain a residue of about 12.1 g.

[Extraction Example 4.]

Grind 150 g of each individual well, put it in a pressure extractor, add 600 ml of distilled water, boil it for 8 hours under a pressure of 2kg / ㎠, filter it with 100 mesh filter cloth, and concentrate the filtrate with a vacuum rotary evaporator. 3.5 g of residue was obtained.

[Extraction Example 5.]

After washing well and dried 200 g of dried foil, put it in a pressure extractor equipped with a reflux machine, add 1000 ml of distilled water and 100 ml of 95% ethanol, boil three times for 5 hours while applying a pressure of 1.5 kg / ㎠. Filtration was carried out with a 100 mesh filter cloth, and the filtrates were all combined, then concentrated appropriately with a vacuum rotary evaporator, and lyophilized to obtain a residue of about 5.8 g.

[Extraction Example 6.]

300 ml of ethanol and 200 ml of distilled water were added to a Erlenmeyer flask containing 50 g of 50 g and 50 g of thick gourd, attached with a reflux condenser, and extracted three times for 9 hours and filtered. After extraction, the filtrates were combined and concentrated by vacuum rotary evaporator to obtain about 12.1 g of residue.

[Extraction Example 7.]

Fifty g of 50 g, 50 g of barley and 50 g of sundae were finely crushed by a pulverizer, and put into an extractor equipped with a reflux condenser. Then, 600 ml of 80% ethanol was added thereto, followed by extraction according to Extraction Example 2 to obtain a residue of about 10.2 g.

The present inventors prepared and compared the cosmetics by seven kinds of prescriptions in order to find out the cellular protection of the four kinds of herbal medicines and the mixed extracts obtained by the above method in the cosmetics. That is, cosmetics containing gall bladder extract, cosmetics containing gall bladder and larvae extracts, cosmetics containing larvae extracts, cosmetics containing pleated extracts, cosmetics containing ginseng and pear extracts, cosmetics containing gall bladder and thick thin extracts, gall bladder , Cosmetics containing honeysuckle and sunscreen.

[Test Example 1.]

[Cell protective capacity measurement]

The cell protection against harmful free radicals was measured for the lotion of Examples 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. The cytoprotective activity was measured by photohemolysis of red blood cells.

That is, the blood collected from rabbits was centrifuged (800 rpm, 5 minutes), washed, and the obtained red blood cells were diluted with physiological saline to prepare a red blood cell suspension (60 million red blood cells / 35 ml). Eight 10 ml Pyrex test tubes with a diameter of 1.0 cm were prepared, and 3.5 ml of red blood cell suspensions were placed in each.

One of the eight test tubes was added with 50 ml of ethanol as a control and the remaining seven were added with 50 ml of sample as a treatment group and allowed to hydrate in the dark for 30 minutes. After the melting, 0.5 ml of an aqueous solution of rose bengal (12 ppm) is added as a photosensitizer, and the entrance is sealed with a fly film, and a 20-watt fluorescent lamp is placed in a box of 50 cm × 20 cm × 25 cm rectangular black painted inside. The tubes were arranged at a distance of 5 cm from the fluorescent tube and irradiated with light for 15 minutes. After light irradiation, absorbance was measured at 700 nanometers at intervals of 15 minutes while placing the tubes in the dark.

The increase in the light transmittance of the red blood cell suspension at this wavelength is proportional to the red blood cell hemolysis. All experiments were carried out in a 27 ℃ constant temperature room, the activity of the sample to protect the cells from free radicals was defined as the time (in minutes) for 50% of the red blood cells added under the above measurement conditions.

TABLE 1

Cell protection of lotions

As a result of examining the cytoprotective ability against harmful oxygen of the lotion of Examples 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 is shown in Table 1.

As shown in Table 1, the cell protective capacity of Examples 2, 6, and 7 was 5 times higher than that of the control, and that of Examples 1, 3, 4, and 5 was 4 times higher than that of the control. .

Therefore, when the compound of the present invention gallja extract, gallja and barberry mixed extract, dog and baekgae extract, baekja extract, baekgae extract, gallja and barberry mixed extract can be used in combination with skin cosmetics, excellent cell protection effect can be expected.

Cosmetics containing the herbal extract of the present invention were prepared based on the cytoprotective ability of the herbal drugs of the present invention identified in Test 1. The skin cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the active ingredient based on the weight.

Example 8

toilet water

% Unit: parts by weight

Manufacturing method: The raw material 1-5 is dissolved in raw material 12, and raw material 7-9 is dissolved in raw material 6, and the two solutions are combined. Raw material 10-11 is added and mixed here.

Example 9

cream

% Unit: parts by weight

Preparation Method: The raw material 1-10 was dissolved by heating to 70 ℃ and 11-13 was dissolved in the raw material 18 and heated to 70 ℃ emulsified. After cooling this emulsified thing to 55 degreeC, raw materials 14-17 are added and stirred, and it cools to room temperature.

Example 10

essence

% Unit: parts by weight

Manufacturing method: After dispersing the raw material 12 in the raw material 20, the raw material 1-3, 5-11, 13-14 is mixed to give an aqueous phase. What dissolve | melted the raw material 4 and the raw material 16-18 in the raw material 15 is made into the alcohol phase. The alcohol phase is slowly added to the water phase with stirring, and the raw material 19 is mixed thereto.

Example 11

Skin lotion

% Unit: parts by weight

Preparation Method: Add Raw Materials 1-8 at room temperature, stir and filter.

Claims (1)

Skin characterized by containing one or two or more kinds of herbal extracts obtained by extracting gall, individual or grommets with a solvent selected from water, ethanol or a mixture thereof in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetics.