KR20220167657A - Cosmetic composition containing vehicle with ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone with low irritation and skin barrier recovery effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which contains vesicles containing fatty acid esters with ceramide holding capacity and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, and has a skin barrier recovery effect. The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains vesicles with ceramide holding capacity and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, wherein 1 to 5 wt% of vesicles and 0.001 to 0.1 wt% of hydroxydecyl ubiquinone are contained based on the total weight of the composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing vehicle with ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone with low irritation and skin barrier recovery effect}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing vesicles containing fatty acid esters having ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, which has less skin irritation and has a skin barrier recovery effect.

Ceramide is one of the sphingolipids having a structure in which fatty acids are linked to sphingosine or phytosphingosine. Ceramide accounts for about 40% or more of intercellular lipids constituting the stratum corneum of the skin, and is a component of the double layer cell membrane and skin lipid membrane. In addition, ceramide is an essential component for the structure formation or function of the stratum corneum, and ceramides present in the human body are classified into various types according to the degree of polarity. Ceramide is an important element of the skin barrier and has a role as a lipid barrier to suppress evaporation of moisture and a function to maintain the orderly structure of the stratum corneum, so it is attracting attention as a raw material for moisturizing cosmetics.

Hydroxydecylubiquinone is an organic compound belonging to the quinone family and has a synonym of idebenone. Hydroxydecylubiquinone is primarily used as a treatment for Alzheimer's disease, but it is attracting attention as a powerful antioxidant as a cosmetic ingredient. It is excellent for cell growth promotion, cell protection, and antioxidant effects, and plays a role in promoting regeneration of not only collagen and elastin in the dermal layer but also the moisture layer. In addition, it inhibits melanin production, reduces skin discoloration, or brightens the skin to suppress pigmentation of the skin, and is effective in removing elasticity and wrinkles and improving skin tone.

However, since ceramide is a poorly soluble substance and cannot be dissolved in cosmetics, it is difficult to secure usability, transparency, and formulation stability of cosmetics. Accordingly, as a prior study, a method for manufacturing an anhydrous type vesicle containing ceramide in a shell containing a fatty acid ester was invented and registered as Patent No. 10-1985277, but in reality, the composition exerted an effect due to the release of ceramide in the skin. Verification is required.

Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1985277 Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1577874 Korean Patent Registration No. 10-2149702

Therefore, the present invention reduces the content of surfactant for dissolving ceramide, a poorly soluble substance, by including vesicles containing fatty acid esters having ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone in a cosmetic composition, resulting in less skin irritation and skin barrier It is to provide a cosmetic composition having a restorative effect.

In order to achieve the above object, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing a vesicle having a ceramide bearing capacity and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, wherein the vesicle is 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition Included, hydroxydecyl ubiquinone is characterized in that it comprises 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, ceramide is characterized in that it is included in 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the vesicle.

Preferably, the vesicle is characterized by further comprising a solvent, a gelling agent, and a gel stabilizer.

Since the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains vesicles containing fatty acid esters having ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, it is possible to reduce the content of surfactants for dissolving ceramides, which are poorly soluble substances, so that skin irritation does not occur. There is an advantage in that a significantly reduced cosmetic composition can be prepared.

In addition, since the content of surfactant is small, there is an advantage in that a cosmetic composition capable of improving transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for skin barrier damage induced by surfactants can be prepared.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The cosmetic composition having a skin barrier recovery effect containing vesicles having ceramide bearing capacity and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone of the present invention contains 1 to 5% by weight of vesicles and 0.001 to 0.1% of hydroxydecyl ubiquinone based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. % by weight, and the vesicles having ceramide bearing capacity in the cosmetic composition are characterized in that they contain 30 to 50% by weight of ceramide based on the total weight of the vesicles.

The vesicle with ceramide holding power of the present invention was developed by prior research (Patent Registration No. 10-1985277), and is a cosmetic vegetable containing a shell containing a fatty acid ester and containing a high content of poorly soluble substance holding power. it's big Vesicles having ceramide bearing capacity are included in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If it is less than 1% by weight, it is insufficient to expect the skin barrier recovery effect, which is the object of the present invention, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, it is difficult to mix well in the cosmetic composition, making it difficult to secure the uniformity of the effect. Here, the fatty acid ester includes a compound of glycerol and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), and glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate may be used.

In addition, the vesicle contains a solvent, a gelling agent, and a gel stabilizer. Dipropylene glycol and dibutyl adipate were used as the solvent, sodium dilaumidoglutamide lysine was used as the gelling agent, and glyceryl stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, and PEG-100 stearate were used as the gel stabilizer. can be used

Hydroxydecylubiquinone of the present invention is an ubiquinone-based antioxidant, and serves to promote regeneration of collagen and elastin as well as moisture layer in the dermal layer. Hydroxydecylubiquinone is included in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If it is less than 0.001% by weight, it is insufficient to expect a skin barrier recovery effect, and if it exceeds 0.1% by weight, there is a possibility of unstable precipitation in the cosmetic composition.

The ceramide of the present invention is one of the sphingolipids having a structure in which fatty acids are linked to sphingosine or phytosphingosine, and has the role of a lipid barrier to suppress evaporation of moisture from the skin barrier and the function of maintaining the orderly structure of the stratum corneum. . Ceramide is included in 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the vesicle. If it is less than 30% by weight, it is insufficient to expect a skin barrier recovery effect, and if it exceeds 50% by weight, there is a possibility of unstable precipitation in the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be formulated into cosmetics as a group consisting of skin lotion, skin softener, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutrient lotion, nutrient cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, body lotion, and emulsion. can

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through the following examples. However, the present invention is not limited by the examples.

<Example 1> Preparation of Vesicles with Ceramide Support

Vesicles having ceramide bearing capacity were prepared using the components listed in Table 1 below. Specifically, after warming and mixing components 1 to 4 at 70 to 80° C., components 5 to 7 were added and stirred. Thereafter, the mixture was cooled to 50° C. and post-treated 2 to 3 times in a microfluidizer at a pressure of 1000 to 1500 bar.

No ingredient name weight % One Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linolate/Olate 30.2 2 Dibutyl Adipate 17.5 3 Dipropylene Glycol 10 4 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate 5 5 Ceramide NP 33.3 6 Hydrogenated Lecithin 3 7 Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine One

<Example 2> Preparation of cosmetic composition

Cosmetic preparations were prepared using the ingredients listed in [Table 2] below. Specifically, 2 to 3 are dispersed in component 1 at room temperature, and 5 is dispersed in component 4 at room temperature, and then components 6 to 8 are added and heated and mixed at 70 to 80 ° C. Then, components 9 to 19 are heated and mixed in a separate melting bath at 70 to 80 ° C. The warmed components 9 to 20 are added to components 1 to 8 and then emulsified. Ingredients 21 to 22 are added to the mixture, mixed at 70 to 80 ° C, and then cooled to 50 ° C. Finally, components 23 to 26 are added and mixed, cooled to 30 ° C, and discharged.

No ingredient name Example 1
(weight%) Comparative Example 1
(weight%) Comparative Example 2
(weight%) Comparative Example 3
(weight%) Comparative Example 4
(weight%) One Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 2 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 3 carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 4 Dipropylene Glycol 10 10 10 10 10 5 xanthan gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 6 glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 7 adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 8 Disodium EDT 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 9 Cetearyl Alcohol 2 2 2 2 2 10 Biophilic H 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 11 Montanov 68 One One One One One 12 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 13 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 14 Polysorbate 60 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 15 Dimethicone & Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 3 3 3 3 16 Hydrogenated Polydecene 2 2 2 2 2 17 Cyclohexasiloxane & Cyclopentasiloxane 3 3 3 3 3 18 dimethicone 4 4 4 4 4 19 Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethicol 2 2 2 2 2 20 Ceramide NP - One - - - 21 tromethamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 22 Simulgel EG 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 23 Vesicles having ceramide bearing capacity of Experimental Example 1 3.01 - 3.01 - - 24 Hydroxydecylubiquinone 1% solution One One - One - 25 1,2-Hexanediol 2 2 2 2 2 26 Spices Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount

<Example 3> Measurement of skin moisture level using a corneometer

Skin moisture levels when the examples and comparative examples prepared in <Example 2> were applied were measured using Corneometer® CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). After washing the test sites, the skin was rested for 30 minutes, the skin moisture level was measured before application, 1 g of Examples and Comparative Examples were applied, and the skin moisture level was measured after 1 hour, and is shown in [Table 3]. The measured value was recorded as a value displayed on the Corneometer device, and the higher the moisture content of the skin, the higher the value.

index Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Average skin moisture level before application (A) 31 33 38 34 32 Average skin moisture level after application (B) 38 38 42 37 35 B-A 7 5 4 3 3

As a result of the measurement, <Example 1> showed a difference in skin moisture content higher than that of Comparative Examples. In particular, when <Example 1> and Comparative Example 1 were compared, the difference in moisture content of <Example 1> was larger, indicating that vesicles with ceramide holding power increased the moisture content of the skin more than simple ceramide, The difference between Comparative Example 2 containing only vesicles having other ceramide holding power, Comparative Example 3 containing only hydroxydecyl ubiquinone solution, and Comparative Example 4 containing only purified water was larger, indicating that vesicles and It was found that when hydroxydecylubiquinone was included together, the skin moisture level increased more significantly.

<Example 4> Clinical trial

The skin barrier recovery effect of <Example 1>, which recorded the highest skin moisture difference in <Example 3>, was measured. This clinical trial was commissioned by Semyung University's Oriental Bioindustry Clinical Support Center and conducted with test number SMC-210430-4225 and IRB approval number SMCTC-056-21-001. Compliance with the center's standard operating instructions (SOP) and sincerity of the study were investigated, and the results of this test were supervised.

Results of TEWL measurement using Tewameter for 20 subjects for a total of 2 weeks of testing, <Example 1> In comparison of improvement rate between unused and used areas, <Example 1> Skin barrier at a statistically significant level after 2 weeks of use Reinforcement effect was shown (p<0.05). In addition, it was confirmed that the material was safe because no abnormal symptoms occurred during the test period.

Detailed clinical trial methods are as follows.

1. Preparation

In order to make the measurement conditions of the subjects the same, the test site was kept clean and dry, and the skin was rested in a place where constant temperature and humidity (22±2℃, R.H. 40-60%) was maintained for at least 30 minutes before proceeding.

2. Measure

2.1. Photo shoot

At every visit, the upper arm, the test site, was photographed with a digital camera (Canon EOS 7D, JAPAN). For standardization, photography was performed by the same researcher, and photography conditions (setting values and camera height) were fixed.

2.2. TEWL measurement

TEWL of the test site was measured using a Tewameter TM300 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The evaluation was performed for about 20 seconds until the value was stabilized, and the average of three values excluding the maximum and minimum values among the five stabilized values was used. The higher the amount of water loss due to the removal of the stratum corneum, the higher the measured value, and the measurement coefficient is g/m ² /h.

3. Test procedure

3.1. Visit 1 (day 0, test start date)

After washing the test site, the skin was rested for 30 minutes, and after taking a picture of the test site and measuring TEWL, a chamber impregnated with 1% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate was attached to the test site for 24 hours.

3.2. Visit 2 (Week 0, Day 0 using Example 1)

After removing the chamber attached to the test site, check the condition of the test site. If the stratum corneum was removed properly, the TEWL of the test site was measured using a photograph and a Tewameter. After the measurement, the subjects were explained how to use Example 1, and asked to use Example 1 twice a day while distributing it.

3.3. Visit 3 (Week 1, 7 days±1 using Example 1)

Subjects who used the distributed Example 1 for one week according to the method of use were subjected to skin irritation evaluation, photography, and TEWL measurement to evaluate the skin barrier strengthening effect.

3.4. Visit 4 (Week 2, 14 days±1 using Example 1)

Subjects who used the distributed <Example 1> for 2 weeks according to the method of use were evaluated for skin barrier strengthening effect by subjecting subjects to skin irritation evaluation, photographing, and TEWL measurement.

4. Survey evaluation

The evaluation was carried out by surveying subjects for general evaluation (feeling of use), efficacy (skin barrier improvement effect, etc.) evaluation, preference, and skin irritation evaluation for <Example 1> with each subject 2 weeks after using <Example 1>. did

5. Skin irritation evaluation

For <Example 1>, closely observe the presence or absence of adverse reactions such as erythema, edema, scale, itching, stinging, burning, stiffness, tingling, or other adverse reactions, and when adverse skin reactions occur, depending on the severity Grades were marked and test findings were written. Even if it is not the day of the visit, if you are no longer able to participate in the test, you are asked to write a "consent to waive test participation" with your signature.

6. Analysis of results

6.1. TEWL measurement

TEWL was measured using a Tewameter TM300 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The higher the measured value, the greater the amount of water loss due to the removal of the stratum corneum, and the measurement coefficient is g/m ² /h.

-Change in TEWL = Measured value of TEWL for week 0 - Measured value of TEWL for each week

-TEWL improvement rate (%)=

6.2 Statistical analysis methods

Statistical analysis was analyzed using an independent t-test method to compare the difference between the used and non-used areas in <Example 1>. All statistical results were considered statistically significant when the significant difference was 5% (p<0.05), which is the most used in biological statistical analysis, and SPSS 18.0 software was used for statistical analysis.

7. Measurement results

The TEWL measurement results using Tewameter TM300 are shown in [Table 4], and the statistical analysis results are shown in [Table 5].

Example 1 use Example 1 Unused 0 days 0 weeks 1 week 2 weeks 0 days 0 weeks 1 week 2 weeks Average 12.84 61.65 19.05 15.09 12.77 61.47 20.81 16.70 Standard Deviation 2.30 6.63 3.03 2.37 2.43 7.18 4.57 2.92 Improvement rate (%) - - 87.27 95.56 - - 83.27 92.00

test group vs control group p-value 0.006 (p<0.05)

<Example 1> As a result of comparing the improvement rate of the used and non-used areas, <Example 1> showed a statistically significant level of skin barrier strengthening effect after 2 weeks of using <Example 1> in the used area (p < 0.05). The skin irritation evaluation was conducted based on the subject's self-survey evaluation and the researcher's visual evaluation, and as a result, no adverse reaction was observed for <Example 1>. As a result of the above, <Example 1> showed that it helps to improve skin barrier strengthening (p<0.05).

8. Skin irritation evaluation result

The skin irritation evaluation for the subjects is shown in [Table 6].

period erythema edema scale itch sting burning sensation stiffness tingling 1 week later - - - - - - - - After two weeks - - - - - - - -

Subjects were asked to report to the center immediately upon occurrence of adverse reactions. In addition, they were asked to indicate whether or not they had skin irritation through a questionnaire. As a result of a survey of subjects during this test, no adverse skin reactions to Example 1 were observed in all subjects, and no adverse skin reactions were observed in the visual evaluation by the researcher after using Example 1.

9. Survey evaluation results

[Table 7] shows the results of the survey on the effect of using <Example 1> by the self-administered questionnaire.

incense very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 2 (10%)
11 (55%)
7 (35%)
0
0 color very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 4 (20%)
13 (65%)
3 (15%)
0
0 viscosity very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 0
8 (40%)
7 (35%)
5 (25%)
0 skin spreadability very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 3 (15%)
12 (60%)
4 (20%)
1 (5%)
0 skin absorption very good
good
commonly
bad
very bad 3 (15%)
12 (60%)
5 (25%)
0
0 freshness very good
good
commonly
bad
very bad 3 (15%)
11 (55%)
6 (30%)
0
0 Soft very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 2 (10%)
14 (70%)
4 (20%)
0
0 lubricity very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 2 (10%)
15 (75%)
3 (15%)
0
0 increase gloss very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 0
13 (65%)
7 (35%)
0
0 Moisture very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 3 (15%)
13 (65%)
4 (20%)
0
0 Albion improvement effect very good
satisfied
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 3 (15%)
15 (75%)
2 (10%)
0
0 adverse reaction Yes

no 0

20 (100%)

In all evaluation items, the proportion of 'satisfactory' or 'good' evaluation was the highest, and the subject's general evaluation of <Example 1> (feeling of use), efficacy (skin barrier improvement effect, etc.) evaluation, preference, and evaluation of skin irritation was found to be excellent.

Claims (8)

A cosmetic composition comprising vesicles having ceramide bearing power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone,
The vesicle is included in 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition,
The hydroxydecyl ubiquinone is a cosmetic composition containing 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
According to claim 1,
The vesicle is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises ceramide, fatty acid ester, solvent, gelling agent, gel stabilizer.
According to claim 2,
The ceramide is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that contained in 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the vesicle.
According to claim 2,
The fatty acid ester is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate.
According to claim 2,
The cosmetic composition, characterized in that the solvent is dipropylene glycol and dibutyl adipate.
According to claim 2,
The cosmetic composition, characterized in that the gelling agent is sodium dilaumido glutami lysine.
According to claim 2,
The gel stabilizer is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that glyceryl stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, PEG-100 stearate.
According to claim 1,
The cosmetic formulation including the cosmetic composition is any one selected from the group consisting of skin lotion, skin softener, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutrient lotion, nutrient cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, body lotion and emulsion A cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a dosage form.