KR102632098B1 - Cosmetic composition containing vehicle with ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone with low irritation and skin barrier recovery effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition having a skin barrier recovery effect containing hydroxydecylubiquinone and a vesicle containing fatty acid ester with ceramide carrying capacity.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention with low irritation and skin barrier recovery effect is a cosmetic composition containing ceramide-supporting vesicles containing ceramide, fatty acid ester, solvent, gelling agent, and gel stabilizer, and hydroxydecylubiquinone. As a composition, vesicles are contained in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and hydroxydecylubiquinone is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. do.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing vehicle with ceramide holding power and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone with low irritation and skin barrier recovery effect}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a vesicle containing a fatty acid ester with ceramide carrying capacity and hydroxydecylubiquinone, which has less skin irritation and has a skin barrier recovery effect.
[R&D project that supported this invention]
[Assignment identification number]D2020147
[Ministry Name] Gyeonggi-do
[Research management agency] Gyeonggi Province Economic and Science Promotion Agency
[Research project name] Corporate-led general
[Research project name] Development of skin barrier materials and derma cosmetics (anti-aging cosmetics) using them
[Host research institute] Greencos Co., Ltd.
[Research period] 2020. 9. 1. ~ 2021. 8. 31.

Ceramide is one of the sphingolipids that has a structure in which a fatty acid is linked to sphingosine or phytosphingosine. Ceramide accounts for more than 40% of the interstitial lipids that make up the stratum corneum of the skin, and is a component of the double-layer cell membrane and skin lipid membrane. Additionally, ceramide is an essential ingredient in the formation and function of the stratum corneum, and ceramides present in the human body are classified into various types depending on the degree of polarity. Ceramide is an important element of the skin barrier and is attracting attention as a raw material for moisturizing cosmetics due to its role as a lipid barrier that suppresses evaporation of moisture and the function of maintaining the ordered structure of the stratum corneum.

Hydroxydecylubiquinone is an organic compound belonging to the quinone family and has a synonym of idebenone. Hydroxydecylubiquinone is primarily used as a treatment for Alzheimer's disease, but is attracting attention as a cosmetic ingredient as a powerful antioxidant. It is excellent for promoting cell growth, cell protection, and antioxidant effects, and plays a role in promoting the regeneration of not only collagen and elastin in the dermal layer but also the moisture layer. In addition, it has the function of suppressing skin pigmentation by suppressing melanin production, reducing skin discoloration or brightening the skin, and is effective in improving elasticity, wrinkle removal, and skin tone.

However, ceramide is a poorly soluble substance and cannot be dissolved in cosmetics, making it difficult to ensure the usability, transparency, and formulation stability of cosmetics, thus limiting its use. Accordingly, as a prior research, a method of manufacturing an anhydrous type vesicle containing ceramide in a shell containing fatty acid ester was invented and registered as Patent No. 10-1985277, but whether the composition actually exerts efficacy by releasing ceramide into the skin has not been confirmed. Verification is needed.

Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1985277 Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1577874 Korean Patent Registration No. 10-2149702

Accordingly, the present invention reduces the content of surfactant for dissolving ceramide, a poorly soluble substance, by including a vesicle containing a fatty acid ester with ceramide-carrying ability and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone in the cosmetic composition, thereby reducing skin irritation and improving the skin barrier. The purpose is to provide a cosmetic composition having a restorative effect.

In order to achieve the above object, the cosmetic composition of the present invention with low irritation and skin barrier recovery effect is a vesicle and hydroxydecyl containing ceramide, fatty acid ester, solvent, gelling agent, and gel stabilizer. A cosmetic composition containing ubiquinone, where vesicles are contained in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and hydroxydecylubiquinone is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is characterized by being included in %.

Preferably, ceramide is contained in an amount of 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the vesicle.

delete

Since the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a vesicle containing a fatty acid ester with ceramide carrying capacity and hydroxydecylubiquinone, the content of surfactant for dissolving ceramide, a poorly soluble substance, can be reduced, thereby reducing skin irritation. There is an advantage in being able to produce a significantly reduced cosmetic composition.

In addition, since the content of surfactant is small, there is an advantage in producing a cosmetic composition that can improve transepidermal water loss (TEWL) due to skin barrier damage induced by surfactants, etc.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The cosmetic composition having a skin barrier recovery effect containing a vesicle with ceramide carrying ability and hydroxydecylubiquinone of the present invention contains 1 to 5% by weight of vesicle and 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of hydroxydecylubiquinone based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The vesicle containing ceramide in the cosmetic composition contains 30 to 50 wt% of ceramide based on the total weight of the vesicle.

The vesicle with ceramide carrying capacity of the present invention was developed through prior research (Patent Registration No. 10-1985277), and is a cosmetic veggie containing a shell containing fatty acid ester and carrying a high content of poorly soluble substances. It's big. Vesicles with ceramide carrying capacity are included in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If it is less than 1% by weight, it is insufficient to expect the skin barrier recovery effect, which is the purpose of the present invention, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, it is difficult to ensure uniformity of effect because it is not well mixed in the cosmetic composition. Here, the fatty acid ester includes a compound of glycerol and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and may be glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate.

Additionally, the vesicle contains a solvent, gelling agent, and gel stabilizing agent. Dipropylene glycol and dibutyl adipate are used as solvents, sodium dilaumidoglutamidrisine is used as a gelling agent, and glyceryl stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, and PEG-100 stearate are used as gel stabilizers. You can use it.

Hydroxydecylubiquinone of the present invention is a ubiquinone-based antioxidant that promotes the regeneration of collagen and elastin as well as the moisture layer in the dermal layer. Hydroxydecylubiquinone is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If it is less than 0.001% by weight, it is insufficient to expect a skin barrier recovery effect, and if it exceeds 0.1% by weight, it may be unstable and precipitate within the cosmetic composition.

The ceramide of the present invention is one of the sphingolipids having a structure in which a fatty acid is linked to sphingosine or phytosphingosine, and has the function of maintaining the ordered structure of the stratum corneum and the role of a lipid barrier that suppresses evaporation of moisture from the skin barrier. . Ceramide is contained in an amount of 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the vesicle. If it is less than 30% by weight, it is insufficient to expect a skin barrier recovery effect, and if it exceeds 50% by weight, it is unstable and may precipitate within the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be formulated as a cosmetic by a group consisting of skin lotion, skin softener, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutritional lotion, nutritional cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, body lotion and emulsion. You can.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through the following examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the examples.

<Example 1> Preparation of vesicles with ceramide carrying capacity

Vesicles with ceramide carrying capacity were manufactured using the ingredients listed in [Table 1] below. Specifically, components 1 to 4 were heated and mixed at 70 to 80°C, then components 5 to 7 were added and stirred. Afterwards, the mixture was cooled to 50°C and post-treated 2 to 3 times in a microfluidizer at a pressure of 1000 to 1500 bar.

No Ingredient name weight % One Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate 30.2 2 Dibutyl adipate 17.5 3 Dipropylene glycol 10 4 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate 5 5 Ceramide NP 33.3 6 Hydrogenated Lecithin 3 7 Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine One

<Example 2> Preparation of cosmetic composition

A cosmetic formulation was prepared using the ingredients listed in [Table 2] below. Specifically, 2 to 3 are dispersed in component 1 at room temperature, and 5 is dispersed in component 4 at room temperature, then components 6 to 8 are added and mixed at 70 to 80°C. Next, components 9 to 19 are heated and mixed at 70 to 80°C in a separate dissolution tank. Add heated components 9 to 20 to components 1 to 8 and then emulsify. Add components 21 to 22 to the mixture, mix at 70 to 80°C, and then cool to 50°C. Finally, components 23 to 26 are added, mixed, cooled to 30°C, and discharged.

No Ingredient name Example 1
(weight%) Comparative Example 1
(weight%) Comparative Example 2
(weight%) Comparative Example 3
(weight%) Comparative Example 4
(weight%) One Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 2 Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate/VPicopolymer 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 3 carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 4 Dipropylene glycol 10 10 10 10 10 5 xanthan gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 6 glycerin 5 5 5 5 5 7 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 8 Disodium EDTA 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 9 Cetearyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 2 10 Biophilic H 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 11 Montanov 68 One One One One One 12 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 13 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 14 Polysorbate 60 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 15 Dimethicone & Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3 3 3 3 3 16 Hydrogenated polydecene 2 2 2 2 2 17 Cyclohexasiloxane & Cyclopentasiloxane 3 3 3 3 3 18 dimethicone 4 4 4 4 4 19 Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethiconol 2 2 2 2 2 20 Ceramide NP - One - - - 21 Tromethamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 22 Simulgel EG 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 23 Vesicle with ceramide carrying capacity of Experimental Example 1 3.01 - 3.01 - - 24 Hydroxydecylubiquinone 1% solution One One - One - 25 1,2-hexanediol 2 2 2 2 2 26 Spices Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount

<Example 3> Measurement of skin moisture using Corneometer

The skin moisture level when the examples and comparative examples prepared in <Example 2> were applied was measured using Corneometer® CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). After washing the test areas, the skin was allowed to rest for 30 minutes and the skin moisture was measured before application. Then, 1 g of each of the Examples and Comparative Examples was applied, and the skin moisture was measured 1 hour later and is shown in [Table 3]. The measured value was recorded from the Corneometer device, and the higher the moisture content of the skin, the higher the value.

index Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Average skin moisture level before application (A) 31 33 38 34 32 Average skin moisture level after application (B) 38 38 42 37 35 B-A 7 5 4 3 3

As a result of the measurement, <Example 1> showed a difference in skin moisture that was higher than that of the comparative examples. In particular, when comparing <Example 1> and Comparative Example 1, the difference in moisture content of <Example 1> was larger, showing that the vesicle with ceramide carrying ability increased the moisture content of the skin more than simple ceramide. The difference between Comparative Example 2, which contained only vesicles with other ceramide-bearing ability, Comparative Example 3, which contained only hydroxydecylubiquinone solution, and Comparative Example 4, which contained only purified water, was larger, showing that the difference between the vesicles with ceramide-bearing ability and It was found that skin moisture increased significantly when hydroxydecylubiquinone was also included.

<Example 4> Clinical trial

In <Example 3>, the skin barrier recovery effect of <Example 1>, which recorded the highest difference in skin moisture, was measured. This clinical trial was commissioned by the Oriental Medicine Bio Industry Clinical Support Center of Semyung University and conducted under test number SMC-210430-4225 and IRB approval number SMCTC-056-21-001. The head of the research institute and the principal investigator provided clinical support during the conduct of the study. We investigated compliance with the center's standard operating instructions (SOP) and sincerity of the research, and supervised the results of this test.

As a result of TEWL measurement using a Tewameter on 20 subjects during a total 2-week test period, <Example 1> In comparing the improvement rate of unused and used areas, <Example 1> showed a statistically significant level of skin barrier after 2 weeks of use. It showed a strengthening effect (p<0.05). Additionally, no special abnormal symptoms occurred during the test period, confirming that it is a safe material.

The detailed clinical trial method is as follows.

1. Preparation

To ensure that the measurement conditions were the same for the subjects, the test area was kept clean and dry, and the skin was stabilized in a place where constant temperature and humidity (22 ± 2°C, R.H. 40-60%) was maintained for at least 30 minutes.

2. Measurement

2.1. Photo shoot

At each visit, the upper arm, the test area, was photographed with a digital camera (Canon EOS 7D, JAPAN). For standardization, the photography was conducted by the same researcher, and the photography conditions (setting values and camera height) were fixed.

2.2. TEWL measurement

TEWL of the test area was measured using Tewameter TM300 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The evaluation was performed for about 20 seconds until the value stabilized, and the average of 3 values, excluding the maximum and minimum values, among the 5 stabilized values was used. The greater the amount of water loss due to removal of the stratum corneum, the higher the measured value, and the measurement coefficient is g/m ² /h.

3. Test procedure

3.1. Visit 1 (Day 0, exam start date)

After washing the test area and allowing the skin to rest for 30 minutes, a photograph of the test area was taken and TEWL was measured, and a chamber impregnated with 1% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate was attached to the test area for 24 hours.

3.2. Visit 2 (Week 0, Day 0 using Example 1)

After removing the chamber attached to the test area, check the condition of the test area. If the removal of the stratum corneum was successful, the TEWL of the test area was measured using photography and a Tewameter. If it was determined that the removal of the stratum corneum was insufficient, a new chamber was additionally attached and the test area was later rechecked and the TEWL was measured. After completing the measurement, the subjects were explained how to use Example 1, and were distributed Example 1 and asked to use it twice a day.

3.3. Visit 3 (Week 1, 7 days ± 1 using Example 1)

The skin barrier strengthening effect was evaluated by skin irritation evaluation, photography, and TEWL measurement on subjects who used the distributed Example 1 for one week according to the method of use.

3.4. Visit 4 (Week 2, 14 days ± 1 using Example 1)

The skin barrier strengthening effect was evaluated by skin irritation evaluation, photography, and TEWL measurement for subjects who used the distributed <Example 1> for 2 weeks according to the usage method.

4. Survey evaluation

For the evaluation, two weeks after using <Example 1>, each subject was surveyed about general evaluation (feeling of use), efficacy (skin barrier improvement effect, etc.) evaluation, favorability, and skin irritation regarding <Example 1>. did.

5. Skin irritation evaluation

For <Example 1>, closely observe whether adverse reactions such as erythema, edema, scaling, itching, stinging, burning, stiffness, tingling or other adverse reactions occur, and when adverse skin reactions occur, depending on the severity, The grade was indicated and inspection findings regarding it were written. If you are no longer able to participate in the test even if it is not the day of your visit, you are asked to write a "Consent to Waive Test Participation" with your signature on it.

6. Results analysis

6.1. TEWL measurement

TEWL was measured using a Tewameter TM300 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). The higher the measured value, the greater the amount of water loss due to removal of the stratum corneum, and the measurement coefficient is g/m ² /h.

-Change in TEWL = Measured value of TEWL in week 0 - Measured value of TEWL in each week

-TEWL improvement rate (%)=

6.2 Statistical analysis method

Statistical analysis was performed using the independent t-test method to compare the difference between the used and unused areas in <Example 1>. All statistical results were considered to have statistical significance when the significant difference was 5% (p<0.05), which is the most commonly used difference in biological statistical analysis, and SPSS 18.0 software was used for statistical analysis.

7. Measurement results

The TEWL measurement results using the Tewameter TM300 are shown in [Table 4], and the statistical analysis results are shown in [Table 5].

Example 1 Use Example 1 Not used 0 days 0 weeks 1 week 2 weeks 0 days 0 weeks 1 week 2 weeks average 12.84 61.65 19.05 15.09 12.77 61.47 20.81 16.70 Standard Deviation 2.30 6.63 3.03 2.37 2.43 7.18 4.57 2.92 Improvement rate (%) - - 87.27 95.56 - - 83.27 92.00

Test group vs control group p-value 0.006(p<0.05)

<Example 1> As a result of comparing the improvement rate between the used area and the unused area, a statistically significant level of skin barrier strengthening effect was shown 2 weeks after using <Example 1> in the area used in <Example 1> (p< 0.05). Skin irritation evaluation was conducted based on self-questionnaire evaluation by the subject and visual evaluation by the researcher. As a result, no adverse reactions to <Example 1> were observed. The above results showed that <Example 1> helped improve skin barrier strengthening (p<0.05).

8. Skin irritation evaluation results

The skin irritation evaluation of the subjects is shown in [Table 6].

period erythema edema scaly itch sting burning sensation stiffness tingling 1 week later - - - - - - - - 2 weeks later - - - - - - - -

Subjects were asked to report any adverse reactions to the center immediately. Additionally, the subjects were asked to indicate whether there was skin irritation through a questionnaire. As a result of a survey of subjects during the course of this test, no adverse skin reactions to Example 1 were observed in any of the subjects, and no adverse skin reactions were observed in the visual evaluation by the researcher after using Example 1.

9. Survey evaluation results

The results of the survey on the effect of using <Example 1>, which were conducted by the subjects themselves, are shown in [Table 7].

incense very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 2(10%)
11(55%)
7(35%)
0
0 color very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 4(20%)
13(65%)
3(15%)
0
0 viscosity very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 0
8(40%)
7(35%)
5(25%)
0 Skin applicability very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 3(15%)
12(60%)
4(20%)
1(5%)
0 skin absorption very good
good
commonly
bad
very bad 3(15%)
12(60%)
5(25%)
0
0 refreshing very good
good
commonly
bad
very bad 3(15%)
11(55%)
6(30%)
0
0 Soft very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 2(10%)
14(70%)
4(20%)
0
0 lubricity very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 2(10%)
15(75%)
3(15%)
0
0 Increased shine very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 0
13(65%)
7(35%)
0
0 Moist very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 3(15%)
13(65%)
4(20%)
0
0 Changbaek improvement effect very good
Satisfaction
commonly
dissatisfaction
very unsatisfied 3(15%)
15(75%)
2(10%)
0
0 adverse reaction yes

no 0

20(100%)

In all evaluation items, the proportion of 'satisfied' or 'good' evaluation was the highest, so the subjects' general evaluation of <Example 1> (feeling of use), evaluation of efficacy (skin barrier improvement effect, etc.), favorability, and evaluation of skin irritation was found to be excellent.

Claims (8)

A cosmetic composition containing hydroxydecylubiquinone and a ceramide-bearing vesicle containing ceramide, fatty acid ester, solvent, gelling agent, and gel stabilizer,
The vesicles are contained in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
A cosmetic composition with low irritation and a skin barrier recovery effect, wherein the hydroxydecylubiquinone is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
delete According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition with low irritation and a skin barrier recovery effect, characterized in that the ceramide is contained in an amount of 30 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the vesicle.
According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition with low irritation and a skin barrier recovery effect, characterized in that the fatty acid ester is glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate.
According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition with low irritation and a skin barrier recovery effect, wherein the solvent is dipropylene glycol and dibutyl adipate.
According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition with low irritation and a skin barrier recovery effect, wherein the gelling agent is sodium dilaumidoglutamidrisin.
According to paragraph 1,
A cosmetic composition with low irritation and a skin barrier recovery effect, characterized in that the gel stabilizer is glyceryl stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, and PEG-100 stearate.
According to paragraph 1,
Cosmetic formulations including the cosmetic composition include any one selected from the group consisting of skin lotion, skin softener, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutritional lotion, nutritional cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, body lotion, and emulsion. A cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a formulation.