KR20210050907A - Cosmetic composition for increase internal binding water and maintain homeostasis - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a composition for increasing protein-bound moisture in hair, comprising a carbodiimide compound and a moisturizing component. The composition for increasing the protein-bound moisture in hair of the present invention crosslinks in the hair by penetrating moisturizing ingredients into the hair, and by strengthening the density of keratin protein inside the hair and forming a lot of hydrogen bonding sites for the moisture that has penetrated into the hair, it is possible to increase the amount of the bound moisture in damaged hair, and to always maintain the increased amount of bound moisture within ± 10%.

Description

{Cosmetic composition for increase internal binding water and maintain homeostasis}

The present invention relates to a technology for increasing bound moisture and maintaining homeostasis inside proteins constituting hair, skin or fibers.

In general, moisturizing cosmetics refer to cosmetics that look soft and lively by maintaining normal moisture on human skin or hair, and have a function of preventing damage such as cracking and roughening. Moisturizing cosmetics are used in a similar way to beautify skin or hair, increase attractiveness, change appearance, or apply to the body to keep the skin healthy by maintaining normal moisture in the skin or hair. It aims to do.

In general, when the moisture content of the skin, hair and fibers decreases, the skin becomes dry, cracked and rough. In addition, scales are formed on the surface of the skin and often accompanied by itching. Also, dry skin is susceptible to infection by bacteria or fungi. When the skin is very dry like this, it is called dry skin. In the case of moisturizing the skin, damage caused by dry skin can be prevented, and the skin can be protected by preventing direct exposure of the skin to external contaminants by a thin lipid film on the skin surface. In addition, when the skin is moisturized, it looks soft and lively, some fine lines are hidden, and pores are small.

These moisturizers are well mixed with water and are ingredients that maintain the moisture content of the stratum corneum through hydrogen bonding when applied to the skin.Moisturizers exhibiting functions similar to sebum, moisturizers using natural moisturizing factors, moisturizers of general organic compounds, ceramide It can be broadly classified into moisturizers that give a moisturizing effect by maintaining the lamellar shape, which is a layered structure structurally.

Common raw materials used to formulate moisturizing cosmetics include oily ingredients such as fats and oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, anions, cationics, amphoterics, nonionic surfactants, moisturizers, Polymer compounds used as thickeners and film-forming agents, ultraviolet absorbers and blockers, antioxidants, sequestering agents, colorants including dyes and pigments, fragrances, and preservatives.

However, when such moisturizing ingredients are used on the skin, only a temporary effect is provided until the next washing after treatment, and there is always the hassle of reprocessing after washing. In order to improve this shortcoming, various mechanisms such as lipids, ceramides, surfactants, minerals that have affinity for skin or hair, technology to increase skin or hair permeability, etc. are used to apply cosmetics to the skin or hair. There is a method of leaving or invading the component, but the amount that actually remains in the skin or hair is only a small amount, and the effect is also temporarily maintained. Therefore, recently, a method of chemically modifying a cosmetic material or the skin or hair surface using a bioconjugation method has begun to be introduced. If a cosmetic effect is given by modifying the outermost layer of skin or hair in the same way as in the present invention, the cosmetic effect can be semi-permanently maintained until desquamation occurs, and if necessary, it can be easily removed through peeling. have.

Recently, L'Oreal has proposed a method to quickly obtain the artificial tanning effect of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) by modifying the skin or hair with an alkoxysilane introduced with an amine group (Patent Document 1), but alkoxysilane has good reactivity, so MSDS It has a disadvantage that it is difficult to apply to practical products because its toxicity is classified into 3 grade. Dupont (Patent Document 2) and Rose et. al. The prior study of (Patent Document 3) also suggests a method of modifying skin or hair, but the technology of applying the bioconjugation method to cosmetics remains in the early stages to the extent that there are not many examples.

Those skilled in the art have devised a method of modifying an amine group, a carboxyl group, a thiol group, a hydroxy group, etc. in a skin or hair protein through prior research. In particular, a method of directly modifying a protein present in hair and skin or hair by using a polymeric carbodiimide (PCI) (Patent Document 4) has been discovered, and research is being conducted to apply it to personal care. Since the carbodiimide reaction can be toxic to the human body due to the formation of acylurea, it could be minimized by using carbodiimide in the form of a polymer. However, since reaction accelerators such as PCI that can apply the reaction to the skin or hair are not diverse, in order to apply the bioconjugation method universally, a reaction medium that is safe for the human body and the effective substance can remain in the skin or hair for a long time. I need this.

On the other hand, unlike the general moisture of hair that easily falls off in the air or at low temperatures, the bonded moisture in the hair keratin structure that is directly included in the hair components and removed only at a high temperature of 180°C or higher is hydrogen bonding with the keratin proteins that make up the hair. It acts as an important component that contributes to the strength and elasticity of the hair.

However, most current hair moisturizing products and technologies are based on the total amount of moisture contained in the structure of the hair (amount of apparent moisture), and in order to increase this, a simple addition of ingredients having excellent moisturizing power is the situation.

Therefore, there is a need for a new technique to increase the bound moisture in the hair.

1. US Patent Publication No. 2010-516546 2. US Patent Publication No. 2011-0274639 3. US Patent Publication No. 2006-0233729 4. Korean Patent Publication No. 2008-0064467

An object of the present invention is to provide a composition for increasing protein-bound moisture, and more preferably, to provide a composition for increasing bound moisture in hair, skin or fibers.

The present invention is a moisturizing ingredient; And a carbodiimide compound represented by the following formula (1),

The moisturizing component is a composition for increasing protein-binding moisture comprising a first moiety including at least one selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen in the molecule, and a second moiety including more than one selected from the group consisting of primary amines and carboxyl groups Provides.

[Formula 1]

In Formula 1, A is a monomer having at least one structure selected from the structures listed below, and is a monomer having an isocyanate group at both ends of the repeating unit, and R is hydrogen; Or a C1-C500 linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon; Or a benzene cyclic hydrocarbon; and includes a double bond in a part of the hydrocarbon molecule; At least one compound selected from the group consisting of O, N, S, P, and Si is substituted; Is an anionic, cationic, or amphoteric form substituted; Or a structure in which a metal ion is bonded in the form of a salt, and m is an integer of 1 to 100.

The composition for increasing protein-bonded moisture of the present invention penetrates and crosslinks moisturizing components into the interior of hair, etc., and strengthens the density of the internal keratin protein, thereby forming a large number of hydrogen-bonding positions of the moisture that penetrated into the interior. Through this, it is possible to increase the amount of bound water and to always keep the increased amount of bound water within ±10%.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described in detail.

In the present invention, the term "bound moisture" is bound water, which refers to moisture that is structured by binding to proteins (keratin proteins, etc.) of hair, skin, or fibers, which is removed at a temperature of 180°C or higher.

In general, the three major elements that make up hair are protein, moisture, and lipids. Among these, moisture varies depending on the humidity of the outside air, but is a constituent that accounts for about 10 to 30% of the total hair. Moisture present in such hair can be largely classified into unbound moisture and bound moisture, and unbound or unbound water refers to unstructured moisture that exists in an unbound state and evaporates easily even when a low temperature is applied. In addition, bound moisture or bound water refers to structural moisture that does not evaporate under low temperature conditions as it is structured moisture with proteins inside the hair, but evaporates under high temperature conditions.

The bound moisture can act as an important component contributing to hair strength and elasticity by forming hydrogen bonds with keratin proteins constituting the hair. Therefore, increasing the combined moisture can help improve the moisturizing and elasticity of the hair, make the hair elastic and elastic, and provide a feeling of moisturizing and volume.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a composition for increasing the protein bound moisture for increasing the bound moisture.

The composition for increasing protein-bound moisture includes a moisturizing component and a carbodiimide-based compound.

In one embodiment, the protein may be hair, skin, or fiber, and in the present invention, specifically, it is possible to increase the bound moisture inside the keratin protein in the hair, skin or fiber.

In the present invention, the moisturizing component forms a bond with a protein in hair, skin, or fiber, and may play a role of increasing the bonded moisture inside the protein. Specifically, in the present invention, while having excellent hydrogen bonding properties into the hair, skin or fibers, the moisturizing components that bind to the keratin protein structure are penetrated and crosslinked by EDC coupling, so that the density of the keratin proteins inside the hair, skin or fibers Strengthens. In addition, the moisture penetrating into the inside during the cleaning process increases the hydrogen bonding position in the hair, etc., thereby increasing the amount of bonded moisture and maintaining the increased bonded moisture to have homeostasis to make the hair elastic and elastic. Volume can be provided.

In one embodiment, the moisturizing component comprises at least one first moiety including at least one selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen in the molecule, and a second moiety comprising at least one selected from the group consisting of primary amines and carboxyl groups. Contains one or more.

The first residue can form a hydrogen bond with water inside the keratin protein, and the second residue can form a covalent bond through EDC coupling with the keratin protein.

In one embodiment, the moisturizing component may have a molecular weight of 60 to 20,000. Specifically, as moisturizing ingredients, natural polymers such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan, chondroitin sulfate, amino acids arginine, histidine, lysine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, serine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, selenocysteine, glycine, Proline, alanine, valine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof, peptides or proteins composed of these amino acids, glucoseamine, glucoseamine sulfate, urea, glycol amines, tannins, aminated tannins , Nicotinic acid amide, thiamine, thiamine diphosphate, thiamine nitrate, glucamine, sodium carboxymethyl cocopolypropyl amine, sodium carboxymethyl oleylpolypropyl amine, biotin, ethanolamine, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, acetyl glutamine, Acetyl glucosamine, isopropanolamine, alkylamine, sodium lauroyl ethylenediamine triacetate or vitamins, hormones, and natural extracts can be used.

In one embodiment, the content of the moisturizing component may be 0.00001 to 10 parts by weight, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight, or 0.1 to 3 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the total composition. In the above content range, the effect of increasing the bound moisture can be maximized.

In the present invention, the carbodiimide-based compound can mediate a reaction between a keratin protein and a moisturizing component, that is, an EDC coupling reaction.

In one embodiment, the carbodiimide compound may be a compound containing at least one carbodiimide (-N=C=N-) group in the molecule, and may be a carbodiimide-based compound represented by Formula 1 below.

[Formula 1]

In Formula 1, A is a monomer having at least one structure selected from the structures listed below, and is a monomer having an isocyanate group at both ends of the repeating unit, and R is hydrogen; Or a C1-C500 linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon; Or a benzene cyclic hydrocarbon; and includes a double bond in a part of the hydrocarbon molecule; At least one compound selected from the group consisting of O, N, S, P, and Si is substituted; Is an anionic, cationic, or amphoteric form substituted; Alternatively, it includes a structure in which metal ions are bonded in the form of a salt, and m may be an integer of 1 to 100.

In one embodiment, the carbodiimide-based compound is 1,1'-methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-block (1,1 '-methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked), 1,1'- methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, Polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-block (1,1'- methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-etherblocked), 1,1'- methylene-bis-(4- Isocyanatocycloheptane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked (1,1'- methylene-bis-(4-isocyanatocycloheptane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Meether-blocked, 1 ,1'-methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocycloheptane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me ether-block (1,1'- methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocycloheptane)-, homopolymer , polyethylene glycol monoMe-ether-blocked), 1,1'-methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclopentane)- and homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked (1,1'- methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclopentane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked), and specifically 1,1'-methylene-bis-(3- Isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-block (1,1'-methylene-bis-(3-isocyana) tocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked).

In one embodiment, the carbodiimide-based compound may be 0.00001 to 10 parts by weight, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight, or 0.1 to 3 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the total composition. If the content is less than 0.00001 parts by weight, there is a problem that the effect of increasing the bonded moisture is difficult to appear, and if it exceeds 10 parts by weight, the carbodiimide-based compound excessively present above the reaction site present in the hair, skin or fiber There is a problem in that it reacts with the moisturizing component in a state that does not react with the fiber, which does not help to improve the persistence and acts as a lost component.

In one embodiment, the second moiety may react with a carbodiimide-based compound to form a reactive ester, followed by reaction with a keratin protein of hair, skin, or fiber via a carbodiimide-based compound to form a covalent bond. . In addition, the first residue of the moisturizing component in the keratin may form a hydrogen bond with moisture. The moisturizing effect may be improved through hydrogen bonding with the moisture. In addition, the carbodiimide-based compound increases the reaction efficiency of the keratin protein of the hair, skin, or fiber and the moisturizing component, so that the moisturizing component bound to the hair, skin or fiber is easily removed during general washing with shampoo or soap It does not come out and can remain attached to hair, skin or fibers almost permanently.

The composition for increasing protein-bound moisture according to the present invention may further include a reaction accelerator. The reaction accelerator is hydroxysuccinimide, hydroxycarboximide, hydroxytriazole, hydroxybenzotriazole, hydroxypyridinone, hydroxyphenylbenzimidazole, hydroxyindolinone, hydroxybenzotriazine And one or more selected from the group consisting of oxyma may be used.

The composition for increasing protein-bound moisture according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. The formulation of such a cosmetic is not particularly limited, and when applied to hair, it may include all formulations such as shampoo, conditioner, treatment, hair pack, hair essence, wax, gel, and spray. In addition, when applied to the skin, examples of application of skin products include general skin care and protection basic cosmetics (toilet, serum, essence, lotion, cream, etc.), color cosmetics (makeup base, foundation, powder, eye shadow, lip gloss). , Lipstick, lip balm, etc.), makeup for hands and toenails (manicure, nutrients, reinforcement, top coat, etc.), cosmetics for cleaning (foam cleansing, cleansing oil, cleansing lotion, cleansing cream, cleansing gel, pack, mask, soap, cleansing Tissue, etc.), sun care cosmetics, body cosmetics (body lotion, shower gel, body cream, body oil, etc.) may all be included, and when applied to fibers, wool fibers may be included.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition contains a moisturizing component and a carbodiimide-based compound, and when the above formulation is less active in an aqueous system, it is easier to maintain its activity in a non-aqueous formulation, and immediately before use. In order to adjust the pH, the reaction may be caused by mixing with a buffer solution or by contacting water during the washing process. Examples of the non-aqueous formulation include liquid, sheet, powder, tablet, oil, wax, ampoule, gel, etc., which are generally used as non-aqueous cosmetic formulations. In addition, the moisturizing component and the carbodiimide-based compound may be formulated as a single agent in an encapsulated form or in two separate forms. In addition, a method of blocking a derivative in which the two components are combined from moisture through encapsulation may also be used.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through examples. The following examples are only illustrative of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to the following examples. The present embodiments are provided to complete the disclosure of the present invention and to fully inform the scope of the invention to those of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention belongs, and the present invention will be defined by the scope of the claims. Only.

Example

Examples 1 to 14 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8

A composition for increasing the bonded moisture inside the hair was prepared in the amount (% by weight) of Table 1 and Table 2 below. In addition, the materials and reagents used in this experimental example were purchased and used from cosmetics raw material manufacturers and commercial suppliers.

(weight%) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Water 46.6 46.6 46.6 46.6 46.6 46.6 46.6 46.6 46.4 46.4 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 EDTA 4Na 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium Lauryl Ether(2mole) Sulfate(30%) 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 35.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%) 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 incense 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Hyaluronic acid 1.0 - - - - - - - 1.0 - Chitosan - 1.0 - - - - - - - - Glutamine - - 1.0 - - - - - - - Penta Peptide (RKKRR) - - - 1.0 - - - - - 1.0 Urea - - - - 1.0 - - - - - Aminated tannins - - - - - 1.0 - - - - Acetyl glutamine - - - - - - 1.0 - - - Glucosamine - - - - - - - 1.0 - - 1,1'- methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Benzene, 1,3-bis(1-isocyanato-1-methylethyl)-, homopolymer, polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-blocked 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)carbodiimide N-hydroxysuccinimide - - - - - - - - 0.2 0.2 pH adjuster Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Sum 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0

Experimental Example 1. Measurement of bound moisture content

(1) method

Measurement was performed with reference to the literature Thermochimica Acta 494 (2009) 136-140.

The normal hair was tied to 5g each to make a tress, and some of these normal hair tresses were permized once with a commercially available perm treatment to damage the hair. The process of washing and drying the prepared damaged hair tress with the composition shampoos of Comparative Examples 1 to 8 and Examples 1 to 14 is repeated 7 times, and over night in a constant temperature and humidity room (25°C, 50RH%) to equilibrate the moisture in the hair and the atmosphere. Let this happen.

The hair was cut into 3 to 5 mm lengths and stored in a constant temperature and humidity room and used to measure the amount of moisture in the hair, and 0.3 g was used for one measurement, and a total of five measured values for each sample were averaged and used as a result.

After drying for 40 minutes (non-bound water) at 65℃ using a dry moisture meter (Mettler Toledo HX204), immediately after drying at 180℃ for 30 minutes (amount of bound water), the initial hair sample volume was first 40 at 65℃ in increments of 5 seconds. The amount of moisture evaporated for a minute was measured, and then the amount of moisture evaporated at 180°C for 30 minutes was measured to test the moisture content of the hair and the moisturizing properties according to the heating, and the amount of bound water inside the hair was measured using the following equation.

Hair bound water content = [(Hair weight after 65℃ 40 minutes-Hair weight after 180℃ 30 minutes) / Hair weight after 180℃ 30 minutes] X 100

(2) result

The measurement results of the hair bound water content are shown in Tables 3 and 4 below.

Out of total moisture content Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Bound water content (%) 5.86 5.77 5.68 5.66 5.71 5.76 5.69 5.73 5.93 5.76

Out of total moisture content Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Comparative Example 7 Comparative Example 8 Example 11 Example 12 Example 13 Example 14 Bound water content (%) 5.23 5.12 5.11 5.09 5.10 5.20 5.03 5.17 5.54 5.60 5.32 5.46

As shown in Tables 3 and 4, the bound moisture content of the hair treated with the composition of the Example is 5.30% or more, and it can be seen that it has an excellent bound moisture content compared to the Comparative Example. In particular, bonding of Examples 1 to 10 using 1,1'-methylene-bis-(3-isocyanatocyclohexane)-, homopolymer, and polyethylene glycol mono-Me-ether-block as a carbodiimide compound The moisture content was 5.60 or more, which had a very high binding level content.

In addition, when the composition contains N-hydroxysuccinimide, it can be confirmed that it has a more enhanced effect.

Claims (6)

Moisturizing ingredients; And a carbodiimide-based compound represented by the following formula (1),
The moisturizing component is a composition for increasing protein-binding moisture comprising a first moiety including at least one selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen in the molecule, and a second moiety including at least one selected from the group consisting of primary amine and carboxyl groups :

[Formula 1]

In Formula 1, A is a monomer having at least one structure selected from the structures listed below, and is a monomer having an isocyanate group at both ends of the repeating unit, and R is hydrogen; Or a straight chain, branched chain or cyclic hydrocarbon having 1 to 500 carbon atoms; Or a benzene cyclic hydrocarbon; and includes a double bond in a part of the hydrocarbon molecule; At least one compound selected from the group consisting of O, N, S, P, and Si is substituted; Is an anionic, cationic, or amphoteric form substituted; Or a structure in which metal ions are bonded in a salt form, and m is an integer from 1 to 100.

The method of claim 1,
Protein is a composition for increasing protein-binding moisture that is hair, skin or fiber.
The method of claim 1,
Moisturizing ingredients include hyaluronic acid, chitosan, chondroitin sulfate, amino acids arginine, histidine, lysine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, serine, threonine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, selenocysteine, glycine, proline, alanine, valine, Isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof, peptides or proteins composed of these amino acids, glucoseamine, glucoseamine sulfate, urea, glycol amines, tannins, aminated tannins, nicotinic acid amide, thiamine, Thiamine diphosphate, thiamine nitrate, glucamine, sodium carboxymethyl cocopolypropyl amine, sodium carboxymethyl oleylpolypropyl amine, biotin, ethanolamine, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, acetyl glutamine, acetyl glucosamine, isopropanolamine, A composition for increasing protein-bound moisture comprising at least one selected from the group consisting of alkylamine and sodium lauroyl ethylenediamine triacetate.
The method of claim 1,
The content of the moisturizing component is 0.00001 to 10 parts by weight of the composition for increasing protein-bound moisture based on the total composition.
The method of claim 1,
The content of the carbodiimide-based compound is 0.00001 to 10 parts by weight based on the total composition for increasing protein bound moisture.
The method of claim 1,
It further contains a reaction accelerator,
The reaction accelerator is hydroxysuccinimide, hydroxycarboximide, hydroxytriazole, hydroxybenzotriazole, hydroxypyridinone, hydroxyphenylbenzimidazole, hydroxyindolinone, hydroxybenzotriazine, and A composition for increasing protein-bound moisture that is at least one selected from the group consisting of oxyma.