KR20200094475A - Stabilizing method of Myristica fragrans extract and cosmetic composition containing the stabilized Myristica fragrans extract - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a technology for stabilizing a Myristica fragrans extract and, specifically, to a method of stabilizing the activity of physiologically active substances such as Nectandrin B, tetrahydrofurogualacin B, and fragransin C1 contained in a Myristica fragrans extract to maintain its activity for a long time and improving skin penetration of the physiologically active substances. Since the Myristica fragrans extract stabilized according to the present invention retains the activity of the active ingredient for a long time, the extract can secure skin regeneration and anti-inflammatory activity even when using a small amount, and thus can be usefully used as an anti-aging cosmetic.

Description

Stabilizing method of Myristica fragrans extract and cosmetic composition containing the stabilized Myristica fragrans extract}

The present invention relates to a technique for stabilizing nutmeg extract, specifically, a technique for stabilizing the activity of a physiologically active substance contained in a nutmeg extract used as a cosmetic, maintaining its activity for a long time, and improving the skin permeability of the physiologically active substance It is about.

Nutmeg (Nutmeg, Myristica fragrans) is a mature fruit of the nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrans Houtt) belonging to the Myristicaceae family. It is native to Malaysia, Indonesia and Sri Lanka, and is usually collected in April to June or November to December. Peel off and use. Nutmeg facilitates blood circulation and lung function and has a bactericidal effect, and thus has been used for improving blood flow, treating respiratory disorders, and skin diseases. It has aroma components and is used as a fragrance.

Nutmeg extract contains lignan-based compounds such as Nectandrin B, tetrahydrofurogualacin B, and fragransin C1, and myricetin and myricetin myricitrin). In addition, nutmeg extract is known to contain phenylpropanoid-based components, myristicin, elemicin, and safrole, as substances showing toxicity to the human body. Myristicin causes severe addiction and hallucinations when ingested. Therefore, in order to use nutmeg extract for pharmaceuticals, food, cosmetics, etc., there is a need to develop an extraction and separation method capable of reducing the content of myristicin and increasing the content of other active ingredients.

Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 2011-0119483 "Maeslignan or nutmeg extract as an active ingredient to relieve itching or skin damage improvement composition" is "Maeslignan or its salt or nutmeg extract containing as an active ingredient to relieve itching or skin damage improvement For food composition, cosmetic composition and pharmaceutical composition for treating itching or skin damage, Korean Patent Publication No. 2005-0091154 discloses a method for preparing a nano-encapsulated nutmeg extract and a composition for skin containing the same. Disclosed is a cosmetic composition for skin with improved inflammation, anti-inflammatory, and anti-irritation functions, characterized by containing a certain amount of nutmeg (Myristicae semen) extract in the cosmetic composition.

When using the nutmeg extract as a cosmetic, the present inventors not only can maintain its activity in the formulation for a long time, but also studied to develop a cosmetic that improves skin penetration, and as a result, completed the present invention.

The present invention aims to provide a method for stabilizing nutmeg extract.

In addition, another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing a stabilized nutmeg extract.

In order to achieve the above object, according to the present invention,

(A) adding 10 to 20 times the weight of ethanol aqueous solution to dried and ground nutmeg to extract for 3 to 5 hours at 50 to 60°C;

(B) preparing a nutmeg extract concentrate by removing and concentrating myristicin using an ion exchange resin;

(C) the nutmeg extract concentrate is selected from the group consisting of 15 to 20 times the weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, ethylhexylglycerin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate and natural oil. Dissolving in at least one oil at 60 to 70° C. for 1 to 2 hours, followed by filtering to prepare a nutmeg extract; And

(D) After mixing the nutmeg extract, purified water, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, and glycerin, a method for stabilizing a nutmeg extract comprising the step of forming a nanoemulsion using a microfluidizer is provided.

In step (A), the aqueous ethanol solution is preferably 20% ethanol.

In step (D), it is preferable to mix the nutmeg extract 10-25 wt%, purified water 8-12 wt%, hydrogenated lecithin 0.1-15 wt%, cholesterol 0.1-10 wt% and the balance of glycerin.

According to the present invention to achieve the other object, there is provided a cosmetic composition containing a nutmeg extract stabilized by the method, 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The stabilized nutmeg extract is that the activity of at least one material selected from the group consisting of Nectandrin B, tetrahydrofurogualacin B and fragransin C1 is stabilized. It is characterized by.

The cosmetic composition may be used for skin regeneration or anti-inflammatory.

The cosmetic composition is skin lotion, skin softener, skin toner, astringent, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutrition lotion, massage cream, nutrition cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, soap, shampoo, cleansing foam, cleansing It consists of any one of the formulations selected from the group consisting of lotions, cleansing creams, body lotions, body cleansers, emulsions, press powders, loose powders and eye shadows.

The nutmeg extract stabilized by the stabilization method of the present invention is capable of maintaining its activity in the formulation for a long time, so it can exhibit excellent activity in the formulation for a long time even in a small amount, and improves skin penetration, making it useful as an anti-aging cosmetic. Can be used.

1 is an image of evaluating the penetration rate using artificial skin of a nutmeg extract stabilized according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, a method for stabilizing the nutmeg extract of the present invention will be described in detail.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, (A) adding 10 to 20 times the weight of an aqueous ethanol solution to dried and ground nutmeg to extract for 3 to 5 hours at 50 to 60°C;

(B) preparing a nutmeg extract concentrate by removing and concentrating myristicin using an ion exchange resin;

(C) the nutmeg extract concentrate is selected from the group consisting of 15 to 20 times the weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, ethylhexylglycerin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate and natural oil. Dissolving in at least one oil at 60 to 70° C. for 1 to 2 hours, followed by filtering to prepare a nutmeg extract; And

(D) After mixing the nutmeg extract, purified water, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, and glycerin, a method for stabilizing a nutmeg extract comprising the step of forming a nanoemulsion using a microfluidizer is provided.

After washing, the dried nutmeg is crushed. After pulverization, it is extracted with a 10-20 times weight ethanol aqueous solvent. The higher the ethanol content, the more active the nectarine B is extracted, but the content of the toxic substance myristicin also increases, which is not desirable. When 20% ethanol is used as a solvent, it is preferable because the content of nectarine B is highest with respect to the content of myristicine.

Subsequently, an ion exchange resin is used to remove the myristicin contained in the extract. According to one embodiment of the present invention, after removing myristicin using Diaion HP-20, concentration is 10-fold to prepare a nutmeg extract concentrate.

Subsequently, active substances such as Nectandrin B, tetrahydrofurogualacin B, and fragransin C1 contained in the nutmeg extract concentrate are not soluble in the aqueous solution, so they are in oils. Dissolve. As oils used, at least one selected from the group consisting of caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, ethylhexylglycerin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, and natural oil may be used. According to an embodiment of the present invention, the nutmeg extract concentrate is 15 to 20 times the weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, ethylhexylglycerin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate and natural oil After dissolving in at least one oil selected from the group consisting of 60 to 70 ℃ for 1 to 2 hours, filtered to prepare a nutmeg extract.

Nano-encapsulation is performed to stabilize the nutmeg extract prepared as described above and to improve skin penetration.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, after mixing the nutmeg extract, purified water, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol and glycerin, a nano-emulsion is formed by a conventional method using a high pressure microfluidizer.

Preferably, the nutmeg extract 10-25 wt%, purified water 8-12 wt%, hydrogenated lecithin 0.1-15 wt%, cholesterol 0.1-10 wt% and the balance of glycerin are mixed.

Through this stabilization process, at least one material selected from the group consisting of Nectandrin B (Nectandrin B), tetrahydrofurogualacin B (tetrahydrofurogualacin B) and pragransin C1 (active ingredient) of the nutmeg extract It was confirmed that this was stabilized. In addition, the stabilized nutmeg extract, skin penetration test results using artificial skin, it was confirmed that the skin penetration is excellent.

Nutmeg extract stabilized by the above method is contained 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition may be used for skin regeneration or anti-inflammatory.

The cosmetic composition is skin lotion, skin softener, skin toner, astringent, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutrition lotion, massage cream, nutrition cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, soap, shampoo, cleansing foam, cleansing It can be applied in any one formulation selected from the group consisting of lotions, cleansing creams, body lotions, body cleansers, emulsions, press powders, rust powders and eye shadows.

[Example]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on the following examples and test examples. However, the following examples are only for exemplifying the present invention, and the present invention is not limited by the following examples, and can be changed to other equivalent and substituted examples without departing from the technical spirit of the present invention. Will be apparent to those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains.

Example 1: Preparation of powdered nutmeg

After washing the nutmeg with purified water, it was prepared by drying. The prepared nutmeg was first crushed to a size of 0.1 to 0.5 cm, and then completely pulverized to prepare a powdered nutmeg and applied to the experiment of the present invention.

Example 2: Preparation of powdered nutmeg extract according to ethanol content

50 g of the powdered nutmeg was extracted with purified water and 500 g of 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, and 80% ethanol, respectively, at 60°C for 3 hours. The filtrate obtained by filtration was analyzed using HPLC, and the contents of the active ingredient nectarine B and the toxic substance myristicine are shown in Table 1.

Extraction solvent Nectandrine B content (%) Myristicin content (%) Nectandrine B/myristocin ratio Purified water 0.09 1.93 0.05 10% ethanol 0.22 3.18 0.07 20% ethanol 0.41 3.66 0.11 30% ethanol 0.42 7.77 0.05 40% ethanol 0.47 8.74 0.05 50% ethanol 0.50 8.24 0.06 60% ethanol 0.60 8.16 0.07 70% ethanol 0.64 9.65 0.06 80% ethanol 0.75 10.37 0.07

As can be seen in Table 1, as the ethanol content in the nutmeg solvent extract increased, the contents of nectarine B and myristicin increased. However, the increase in the content of each component according to the increase in the content of ethanol was confirmed that it is more preferable to extract nutmeg with 20% ethanol, which has the highest ratio of nectrine B compared to myristicine, as myristicine is larger than nectarine B.

Example 3: Removal of toxic substances from the extract

50 g of the powdered nutmeg was extracted with 500 g of 20% ethanol at 60° C. for 3 hours, and myristicin was removed using Diaion HP-20, one of the ion exchange resins. 50 to 80% ethanol was used sequentially, and the separated solution was concentrated 10 times to prepare a nutmeg extract concentrate. The contents of nectarine B and myristin contained in the nutmeg extract concentrate are measured and are shown in Table 2 below.

Content of Nectandrine B (%) Content of myristicin (%) Nutmeg extract concentrate 3.00% 0.01% or less

Examples 4-8: Preparation of nutmeg extract

The nutmeg extract concentrate of Example 3 was not completely dissolved in the water-soluble component, and was dissolved in each oil at 60° C. for 1 hour as shown in Table 3, followed by filtration to prepare a nutmeg extract.

Furtherance
(Weight ratio) Comparative Example 1 Example 4 5 6 7 8 Dimethicone 20.0 - - - - - Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - 20.0 - - - - Octyldodecanol - - 20.0 - - - Ethylhexylglycerin - - - 20.0 - - Trimethylolpropane triisostearate - - - - 20.0 - Natural oil - - - - - 20.0 Nutmeg extract concentrate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

When preparing Examples 4 to 8 and Comparative Example 1, the solubility of the nutmeg extract concentrate was observed as shown in Table 4 below.

Comparative Example 1 Example 4 5 6 7 8 Solubility of nutmeg extract concentrate according to oil ● ◑ ◑ ◑ ◑ ◑ ○: Completely soluble, ◑: Only partially soluble, ●: Not soluble

The nutmeg extract concentrate was extracted with 20% ethanol and concentrated, so that only a portion of the oil was dissolved and Comparative Example 1 was found to be almost insoluble. It was confirmed in Test Example 1 below that it is more preferable to use an oil in which the active ingredient nectandrin B is dissolved in a nanoemulsion.

Examples 9-13: Stabilization of nutmeg extract

To stabilize the active ingredient and improve skin penetration, a high-pressure microfluidizer was used to prepare a nanoemulsion containing nutmeg extract in a conventional manner according to the composition in Table 5.

Furtherance Comparative Example 2 Example 9 10 11 12 13 glycerin To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Comparative Example 1 20.0 - - - - - Example 4 - 20.0 - - - - Example 5 - - 20.0 - - - Example 6 - - - 20.0 - - Example 7 - - - - 20.0 - Example 8 - - - - - 20.0 Hydrogenated lecithin 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 cholesterol 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Purified water 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0

Test Example 1: Appearance and content stability evaluation of nanoemulsion containing nutmeg extract

To confirm the stability of the nanoparticles prepared in Examples 9 to 13 and Comparative Example 2, the prepared nanoemulsion was placed in a 20 ml glass vial, stored at 4°C, 25°C, 45°C, and sunlight, and then discolored during the evaluation period. , Observation changes in appearance (Table 6) and changes in the content of Nectandrin B (Table 7) were observed.

division Condition Immediately after manufacture 1 week 2 weeks 3 weeks 4 weeks Comparative Example 2 4℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 25℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 45℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ daylight ○ ○ ○ ○ ◐ Example 9 4℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 25℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 45℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ daylight ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Example 10 4℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 25℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 45℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ daylight ○ ○ ○ ○ ◐ Example 11 4℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 25℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 45℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ daylight ○ ○ ○ ○ ◐ Example 12 4℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 25℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 45℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ daylight ○ ○ ○ ○ ◐ Example 13 4℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 25℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 45℃ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ daylight ○ ○ ○ ◐ ◐ ○: No change, ◐: weak discoloration, ◑: weak discoloration, ●: complete discoloration and discoloration

As shown in Table 6, as a result of observing the change over time of the nanoemulsion after being stored in various conditions, weak discoloration was observed in the samples of Comparative Examples 2 and 10 and 13 except Example 9 in daylight. The properties were not changed in Comparative Examples 2 and 9 to 13.

division Condition Immediately after manufacture 1 week 2 weeks 3 weeks 4 weeks Comparative Example 2 4℃ 1.6±0.2 1.4±0.3 1.2±0.5 1.3±0.2 1.2±0.4 25℃ 1.6±0.2 1.3±0.3 1.2±0.6 1.3±0.4 1.0±0.1 45℃ 1.6±0.2 1.0±0.3 0.7±0.1 0.5±0.3 0.1±0.6 daylight 1.6±0.2 0.9±0.4 1.0±0.2 0.4±0.1 0.2±0.3 Example 9 4℃ 100 100 100 100 100 25℃ 100 100 100 100 100 45℃ 100 100 99.7±0.1 99.4±0.2 99.1±0.2 daylight 100 99.8±0.1 99.5±0.3 99.2±0.2 99.0±0.3 Example 10 4℃ 100 100 100 100 100 25℃ 100 100 100 100 100 45℃ 100 99.3±0.3 99.0±0.2 99.0±0.5 98.4±0.4 daylight 100 99.2±0.5 98.9±0.3 98.4±0.2 98.0±0.3 Example 11 4℃ 100 100 100 100 100 25℃ 100 100 100 100 100 45℃ 100 99.4±0.3 99.0±0.2 98.7±0.3 98.2±0.8 daylight 100 99.1±0.1 98.5±0.6 98.2±0.4 97.5±0.5 Example 12 4℃ 100 100 100 100 100 25℃ 100 100 100 100 100 45℃ 100 98.2±0.6 98.0±0.9 97.6±0.5 97.2±0.3 daylight 100 98.0±0.2 97.7±0.4 97.1±0.9 97.0±0.2 Example 13 4℃ 100 100 100 100 100 25℃ 100 100 100 100 100 45℃ 100 98.4±0.2 98.1±0.7 97.8±0.3 97.5±0.3 daylight 100 98.1±0.6 97.8±0.5 97.4±0.6 97.1±0.4

After storing the nanoemulsion under various conditions as shown in Table 7, the content of the nectarine B was measured, and the nanoemulsions of Examples 9 to 13 all exhibited stability of 97% or more until 4th week.

On the other hand, when preparing nutmeg extract, the content of nectarine B of the nanoemulsion using dimethicone (Comparative Example 2) was less than 2%, and nectarine of the nanoemulsion using some dissolved oils (Examples 4 to 8). The B content was 97% or more, and it was found that the use of oils such as Examples 4 to 8 had a great influence on the content of the active ingredient.

Examples 9 to 13, which have high active ingredient content and high stability, are effectively protected from external stresses such as air, light, and heat as nanoemulsions are formed, and thus it is judged to maintain stability even in cosmetic formulations.

Test Example 2: Evaluation of artificial skin penetration power of nanoemulsion containing nutmeg extract

The skin penetration effect of the nanoemulsion containing nutmeg extract was confirmed. After applying the sample of Example 9 with the highest content stability among Examples 9 to 13 to the artificial skin, the surface of the artificial skin was washed with PBS solution 10 minutes later in an incubator to measure the penetration force over time with confocal equipment. (Figure 1).

A trace amount of rhodamine was added for confocal measurement. As can be seen in Figure 1, since the artificial skin depth sample enters for 1 to 6 hours, it is determined that the skin penetration power of the nanoemulsion containing the nutmeg extract is improved.

Formulation Example 1: Preparation of Cream

The cream containing the stabilized nutmeg extract of Example 9 was prepared by a conventional method with the composition of Table 8 below.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Stabilized nutmeg extract (Example 9) 3 glycerin 10 Butylene Glycol 5 Glyceryl oleate 1.8 Cetearyl Olivet 0.5 Sorbitan olive 0.5 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.0 Cetylethylhexanoate 1.0 Beads wax 0.5 Squalane 0.2 1,2-hexanediol 0.2 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyllauroyl glutamate 1.0 Dimethicone 0.5 Cyclopentasiloxone/cyclohexasiloxane 2.0 Cetiaryl Alcohol 1.0 Mineral oil 2.5 Disodium LED 0.02 BHC 0.05 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.3 Panthenol 0.2 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 0.2 incense 0.01 Purified water Balance

The cosmetic formulation using the stabilized nutmeg extract (Example 9) was prepared as the cream of formulation Example 1, and the cream properties were also stable.

In addition, skin lotion, skin softener, skin toner, astringent, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutrition lotion, massage cream, nutrition cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, soap, shampoo, cleansing foam, cleansing lotion, cleansing It can be used as a cosmetic composition of each formulation consisting of a cream, body lotion, body cleanser, emulsion, press powder, rust powder, and eye shadow, and is not necessarily limited to the formulation example composition.

Although the present invention has been described as a preferred embodiment mentioned above, it is possible to make various modifications or variations without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Claims (7)

(A) adding 10 to 20 times the weight of ethanol aqueous solution to dried and ground nutmeg to extract for 3 to 5 hours at 50 to 60°C;
(B) preparing a nutmeg extract concentrate by removing and concentrating myristicin using an ion exchange resin;
(C) the nutmeg extract concentrate is selected from the group consisting of 15 to 20 times the weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, ethylhexylglycerin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate and natural oil. Dissolving in at least one oil at 60 to 70° C. for 1 to 2 hours, followed by filtering to prepare a nutmeg extract; And
(D) After the nutmeg extract, purified water, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol and glycerin are mixed, a method for stabilizing a nutmeg extract comprising the step of forming a nanoemulsion using a microfluidizer. The method for stabilizing nutmeg extract according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous ethanol solution in step (A) is 20% ethanol. The method of claim 1, wherein in step (D), 10 to 25% by weight of the nutmeg extract, 8 to 12% by weight of purified water, 0.1 to 15% by weight of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1 to 10% by weight of cholesterol, and the balance of glycerin are mixed. Method of stabilizing nutmeg extract, characterized in that to do. A cosmetic composition containing 0.001 to 20% by weight of the nutmeg extract stabilized by any one of claims 1 to 3, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method of claim 4, wherein the stabilized nutmeg extract is at least one material selected from the group consisting of Nectandrin B (Nectandrin B), tetrahydrofurogualacin B (tetrahydrofurogualacin B) and pragransin C1 (fragransin C1) Cosmetic composition characterized in that the activity is stabilized. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the cosmetic composition is effective for wrinkles, skin regeneration or anti-inflammatory. The method of claim 4, wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin lotion, skin softener, skin toner, astringent, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion, nutrition lotion, massage cream, nutrition cream, moisture cream, hand cream, essence, pack, soap, A cosmetic composition comprising shampoo, cleansing foam, cleansing lotion, cleansing cream, body lotion, body cleanser, emulsion, press powder, rust powder and eye shadow.

Images