KR20200036054A - Solid water in silicone composition with water release effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The solid composition for the care and / or makeup of the keratin material in the form of an aqueous emulsion in silicone oil comprises a solid fat phase, and an aqueous phase. The composition comprises (i) at least one silicone elastomer, (ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol, (iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone, (iv) equal to or higher than 60 ° C. At least one wax having a melting point, and (v) at least one solid fatty substrate selected from C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes, solid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Also provided are methods of makeup and / or care of the skin, more particularly of the face or neck, using these solid cosmetic compositions.

Description

A solid silicone oil-in-water composition having a water release effect {SOLID WATER IN SILICONE COMPOSITION WITH WATER RELEASE EFFECT}

The present invention relates to the field of makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, and is particularly directed to providing solid foundations in the form of solid cosmetic compositions, especially water-in-silicone emulsions.

The invention also relates to a method for the makeup and / or care of the skin, more particularly the face or neck, using these solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Foundation compositions are commonly used to hide skin defects such as red spots and blemishes, as well as contributing to the attractive color of the skin, especially the face. Traditional foundations exist in both fluid and solid forms, each of which has its own advantages. In general, consumers are attracted to cosmetic compositions, especially foundations, which are easy to use and give good sensory to the skin.

"Easy to use" means that the composition is easy to carry and apply to the skin.

“Sensory” means the water release effect, cooling effect, and melting effect. The moisture release effect refers to the feeling of cooling and long-term moisturizing power felt through water droplets on the keratin material, especially the skin, and the cooling effect refers to the feeling that the temperature immediately decreases after application of the composition on the keratin material, and the melting effect Refers to a change in texture that changes from solid to fluid when applying the composition on a keratin material.

Efforts have been made to develop cosmetic compositions having these properties.

International patent application 2012/145862 contains a fatty phase, a water phase and at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, at least one dimethicone copolyol, at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone, water-in-oil emulsion in silicone A fluid phase foundation composition in the form is disclosed. The fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one nonvolatile oil and optionally at least one wax.

However, the foundations of the prior art are not easy to carry and apply on the skin due to their fluid form.

In addition, the skin sensation after application on the skin still has room for improvement.

Therefore, there is a need to develop a solid cosmetic composition, such as a solid foundation composition.

In particular, there is a need to develop a solid cosmetic composition that is easy for a user to apply on a skin by carrying it with an application tool or a finger.

In addition, when applied to the skin, more particularly the face and / or neck, the solid cosmetic composition for skin that enables good sensation, that is, moisture release effect, cold feeling, and even melting effect, while exhibiting excellent stability over time and temperature change Need to develop.

The present invention aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water emulsion in silicone oil, in particular a solid foundation composition.

The present invention also provides a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-water emulsion of silicone, particularly a solid foundation composition, which exhibits excellent stability over time and changes in temperature, and is easy for a user to apply to the skin by carrying it with a tool or finger for application. It aims to do.

Another object of the present invention is good skin sensation, that is, water release effect, melting effect, and cold feeling, while showing excellent stability with time and temperature changes when applied to the skin and more particularly to the face and / or neck It is to provide a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water emulsion in silicone oil, in particular a solid foundation composition.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous emulsion in silicone oil comprising a solid fat phase and a water phase, the composition comprising

(i) at least one silicone elastomer,

(ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol,

(iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone,

(iv) at least one wax having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C, and

(v) C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes, at least one solid fatty substrate selected from solid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention provides good moisture release effect, melting effect, and cold feeling, while exhibiting excellent stability over time and temperature change.

More surprisingly, it has been observed that a combination of at least one wax and at least one solid fat substrate having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C. improves stability over time and temperature changes, and melting and cooling.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for makeup and / or care of the skin, comprising applying the composition of the invention on a keratin material.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has been shown to be easy to carry in order to uniformly cover the skin, very easy to apply to the skin, and also to provide the user with a refreshing feeling and long-term moisture after application. In addition, they are very thin and light, and appear to have a very good balance of skin care efficiency perception (fresh and moist) as well as makeup efficiency (proper coverage).

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a compact emulsion or a foundation in the form of a molded solid product.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “solid (solid)” refers to the composition not flowing under its own weight at room temperature (25 ° C.).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “solid emulsion” refers to that the emulsion does not flow under its own weight after 1 hour at room temperature (25 ° C.).

The term “solid” composition refers to a composition having a hardness at 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) equal to or greater than 30 Nm ⁻¹ when measured according to the protocol described below.

The hardness of the solid composition is measured according to the following protocol. The composition for determining the hardness is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. using a “cheese wire” method, which uses a rod (stick) product, preferably a circular cylinder, using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm, the wire It consists of cutting horizontally by moving it relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min.

The hardness of the composition sample of the present invention (indicated by Nm ^-1 ) was measured using a DFGS2 tensile tester manufactured by Indelco-Chatillon. The above measurements are repeated 3 times and then averaged. The mean (Y) of the three values read using the above mentioned tensile tester is given in grams (g). This average value is converted into Newton and divided by L, which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (m).

The hardness is converted to Nm ^-1 according to the following formula:

(Y x 10-3 x 9.8) / L

For measurements at different temperatures, the sticks are stored at that new temperature for 24 hours prior to measurement.

In all the parts described below or above, the term "silicone" is obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of a suitably functionalized silane, as generally accepted, and also silicon atoms are connected to each other via an oxygen atom ( Siloxane bonds ≡Si-O-Si≡) consisting essentially of repeats of the main unit, optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals are directly or directly bonded to the silicon atom via a carbon atom, side chain or crosslinked and straight chain or cyclic of variable molecular weight It is understood to represent any organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a structure. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, especially C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl radicals, especially methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals and aryl radicals, especially phenyl radicals. These may be substituted, for example, by C ₁ -C ₄₀ ester or ether groups or C ₇ -C ₆₀ aralkyl groups.

Silicone elastomer

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer, also referred to as an organopolysiloxane elastomer. The silicone elastomer may be an emulsifying elastomer or a non-emulsifying elastomer.

In one preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units, which is also known as a non-emulsifying elastomer.

In one embodiment, silicone elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, include diorganopolysiloxanes containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, and ethylenically unsaturated bonds to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Dehydrogenation between a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing a group, or particularly in the presence of an organotin compound By a crosslinking coupling reaction, or by a crosslinking coupling reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane having hydroxyl end groups with a hydrolysable organopolysiloxane, or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst. , Or Goener It can be defined as an elastomeric cross-linked organopolysiloxane obtainable by cross-linking of organopolysiloxanes via local radiation, for example, gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or electron beams.

Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is a diorganopolysiloxane (A2) containing at least two hydrogens, each bonded to silicon, as described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0 295 886. , Obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane (B2) containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C2).

In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a methylhydrogenopolysiloxane having a trimethylsiloxy end group and a dimethylpolysiloxane having a dimethylvinylsiloxy end group in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is a base reagent for the formation of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is effected by addition reaction of compound (A2) and compound (B2) in the presence of a catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (eg, C ₂ -C ₄ ) alkenyl groups, and the lower alkenyl group can be selected from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecules. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a side chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but a straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

Organopolysiloxane (A2) is methylvinylsiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymer having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylvinylsiloxy end Dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a group, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy end group, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy end group, dimethylvinyl Methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane having siloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymer having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups You can.

Compound (B2) is particularly an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule, and thus a crosslinking agent for compound (A2).

Advantageously the sum of the number of ethylene groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

Compound (B2) may be any molecular structure of a straight chain or side chain structure, or a cyclic structure.

Compound (B2) may have a viscosity in the range of 1 to 50,000 centistokes at 25 ° C., particularly in order to have good miscibility with compound (A).

Compound (B2) is such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bound to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1. It is advantageous to add in an amount.

Compound (B2) may be selected from methylhydrogenopolysiloxane having a trimethylsiloxy end group, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymer having a trimethylsiloxy end group, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymer.

Compound (C2) is a crosslinking reaction catalyst, in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complex, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complex, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complex, platinum black and platinum on support to be.

The catalyst (C2) is a clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and (B2), and is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight.

Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; Substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; Aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; Substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; And substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as epoxy groups, carboxylate ester groups or mercapto groups.

According to one preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is particularly present in the form of non-spherical particles.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms, which are esters, Ether, amine and amide groups.

The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular a Si-O group.

In one preferred embodiment, the silicone oil, which is mixed with an organopolysiloxane elastomer to form a gel, is a linear silicone oil (dimethyl) having a viscosity in the range of 1 to 350 cst, especially 2 to 100 cst, preferably 2 to 10 cst at 25 ° C. Siloxane). The silicone oil viscosity can be measured according to ASTM D-445 norm.

Examples of organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the present invention in admixture with linear silicone oils may mention the following:

-Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, for example, the trade names ≪KSG-6≫ and ≪KSG-16≫ sold by Shin Etsu;

-Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone crosspolymer, for example the product name ≪DC9041≫ commercially available from Dow Corning

In one preferred embodiment, the composition is a non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity in the range of 1 to 100 cst at 25 ° C., particularly 1 to 10 cst at 25 ° C. , Especially those having the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as the product names ≪KSG-6≫ and ≪KSG-16≫ sold by Shin-Etsu, preferably KSG-16 do.

In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an emulsifying elastomer.

Emulsifying silicone elastomer is understood to mean a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be selected from polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol silicone elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer is crosslinked by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and at least two polyoxyalkylenes having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. It is an organopolysiloxane.

The polyoxyalkylene elastomers are described in particular in U.S. Patent Nos. 5236986, 5412004, 5837793, and 5811487, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

As polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers, the trade names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", KSG-32 "," KSG-33 "and" KSG- "by Shin-Etsu Corporation 210 "," KSG-310 "," KSG-320 "," KSG-330 "," KSG-340 "," X-226146 "and those sold under the trade names" DC9010 "and" DC9011 "by Dow Corning It is possible.

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinking obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and a polyglycerolated compound having an ethylenically unsaturated group, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst. It is an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Such polyglycerolated elastomers are described in particular in International Patent Application No. 2004/024798.

As the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer, those sold by Shin-Etsu under the trade names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830", and "KSG-840" can be used.

In one preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is a non-emulsifying elastomer, ie an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain.

The non-emulsifying elastomer that can be used is manufactured by Shin-Etsu Co., Ltd. under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, and KSG-. 43 and KSG-44, by Dow Corning under the trade names DC9040, DC9041, DC9509, DC9505 and DC9506, by Grant Industries under the trade name Gransil, and under the name of General Electric by General Electric These include those sold as SFE 839.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly are those sold by Shin-Etsu under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, More particularly, those sold under the trade names KSG-15 and KSG-16, preferentially sold under the trade names KSG-16.

* KSG-16 is a gel consisting of 24% dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 76% dimethicone.

KSG-15 is a gel consisting of 6% dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and 94% cyclodimethicone.

In one preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer has an INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The composition according to the invention may contain such organopolysiloxane elastomers, in particular non-emulsified organopolysiloxane elastomers alone or as a mixture, from 0.01% to 1% by weight of the active substance, preferably from 0.01% to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. %, More preferably 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, comprising at least one gel consisting of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone, for example KSG-16.

In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises KSG-16 as a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, more preferably, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably it is included in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight.

In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer powder.

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one dimethicone copolyol.

Dimethicone copolyol

The dimethicone copolyol used according to the invention is advantageously oxypropyleneated and / or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane.

As a dimethicone copolyol, the compound corresponding to the following general formula (I) can be used.

[Formula 1]

(I)

(I)

In the above formula,

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are independently of each other a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or a-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH2) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ radical, at least One R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ radical is not an alkyl radical, R ₄ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₄ acyl radical,

A is an integer from 0 to 200,

B is an integer from 0 to 50, except that A and B are not 0 at the same time,

x is an integer from 1 to 6,

y is an integer from 1 to 30,

z is an integer from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), R ₁ = R ₃ = methyl radical, x is an integer from 2 to 6, and y is an integer from 4 to 30. R ₄ is particularly hydrogen.

Examples of the compound of the general formula (I) may refer to the compound of the general formula (II) below.

[Formula 2]

(II)

(II)

In the above formula, A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10, and y is an integer from 10 to 20.

As an example of the silicone compound of general formula (I), a compound of general formula (III) can also be mentioned.

[Formula 3]

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) _3- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)

In the above formula, A 'and y are integers from 10 to 20.

Dimethicone copolyols are trade names DC 우 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning, and trade names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu Co., Ltd. And those sold as KF-6028.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a dimethicone copolyol, trade names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028, more particularly KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu Co., Ltd. It includes. The INCI name of KF-6017 is PEG-10 dimethicone.

The dimethicone copolyol is in the emulsion according to the present invention, in the range of 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, preferentially 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Content.

In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises PEG-10 dimethicone as the dimethicone copolyol, 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, It is preferably included in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a dimethicone copolyol, PEG-10 dimethicone, as an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain, a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer It includes.

The composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the organopolysiloxane elastomer and dimethicone copolyol, at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

Advantageously in the form of an aqueous emulsion in silicone oil according to the invention, (i) at least one silicone elastomer, (ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol, and (iii) at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone The combination of copolyols provides good stability and improved cooling when applied to keratin materials, in water droplets having a larger size, that is, 5 to 20 μm, compared to typical emulsions. As a result, it can increase the amount of water distributed to the skin. The larger the droplet, the more fragile it is to smaller droplets, ie from 2 to 5 μm.

In one preferred embodiment, the droplets in the composition of the present invention have a size in the range of 2 μm to 50 μm, especially 2 μm to 40 μm, more particularly 5 μm to 30 μm, preferably 5 μm to 20 μm. .

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "stable" is a particle that can recognize the texture of the microlayer of the composition shearing between fingers when left at 45 ° C for 2 months in an oven and then returned to ambient temperature. It refers to a composition that does not represent.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol _{(C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol} )

As described above, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

Advantageously the presence of C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol in the composition according to the invention shows good stability at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). The stability of the composition according to the invention also shows good stability at 37 ° C. or 45 ° C., especially after storage for 2 months.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyols of the invention are more particularly oxypropyleneated and / or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxanes.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the formula (IV):

[Formula 4]

(IV)

(IV)

In the above formula,

PE represents a group of (-C ₂ H ₄ O) _x- (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y -R, where R is selected from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x is 0 to 100 Is an integer, y is an integer from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously 0,

m is an integer from 1 to 40, n is an integer from 10 to 200, o is an integer from 1 to 100, p is an integer from 7 to 21, and q is an integer from 0 to 4.

Preferably R is a hydrogen atom, m is an integer from 1 to 10, n is an integer from 10 to 100, o is an integer from 1 to 30, p is 15, and q is 3.

In one preferred embodiment, at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is selected from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as those sold under the trade name Abil EM-90 by Goldschmidt. do.

The at least one C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is, for example, in the emulsions described herein, 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, more In particular, it may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight.

In one preferred embodiment, the C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a product sold under the trade name Abil EM-90 by Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, more particularly Goldsmith.

Abil EM-90 is cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone.

In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone as C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol, 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, It is preferably included in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone as a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol and dimethicone / vinyl as an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain. Dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a mixture of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone as organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain, PEG-10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, and C _8- C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol includes cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.03% to 0.3% by weight of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer in the active material, 0.1% to 1% by weight of PEG-10 dimethicone, And cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone 0.1% to 0.8% by weight.

Aqueous phase

Preferably the aqueous phase is present in an amount equal to or greater than 40% by weight, in particular 40 to 80% by weight, in particular 45% to 60% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the aqueous phase is alcohol (s), especially ethanol; Polyethylene glycol having 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; Polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, maltitol, sorbitol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, glycol ether, For example, mono-, di-, or tri-propylene glycol or mono-, di-, tri-ethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one glycol. Preferably the glycol is selected from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and any mixtures thereof.

An example of propylene glycol is sold by Dow Chemical under the trade name "propylene glycol USP / EP".

The glycol may be present in an amount ranging from 3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, magnesium sulfate, preferably sodium chloride.

Fatty phase

According to the present invention, the fat phase comprises at least one wax and at least one solid fat substrate having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C.

According to the invention, the composition comprises a wax. The wax contains at least one wax having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C.

Waxes contemplated in the context of the present invention are lipid affinity compounds that are generally solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) with a melting point equal to or greater than 60 ° C. and with reversible change in solid / liquid state.

Examples of waxes suitable for the present invention are particularly hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, orouricury ) Wax, African grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumach wax; Montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, and ozokerite; Polyethylene wax, wax and wax copolymer obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, and also contains esters, straight or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains, preferably C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ chains Fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, or mixtures thereof.

As polyethylene, it may be mentioned that it is sold under the trade name Performalene 500-L Polyethylene by New Phase Technologies.

Fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing straight or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains, preferably C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ chains, may also be mentioned. Among these compounds, mention may be particularly made of stearic acid, palmitic acid, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acids used in the present invention are, for example, AEC Stearic Acid sold by A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd., Emersol sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC, by Protameen Chemicals, Inc. Available as a commercial Palmitic Acid PC.

Examples of esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils may be mentioned that with commercially available ^® trade name Phytowax ricin 16L64 ^® and 22L73 by wax, small pimsa (Sophim) obtained in significant hydrogenation esterified castor as cetyl alcohol Can and can also be used. Such waxes are described in French patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ chain fatty alcohols, such as those sold under the trade names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57 by Sofim, are also convenient.

Waxes that can be used are C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms) alone or in a mixture. Such waxes are sold in particular under the trade names Kester Wax K 82 P ^® , hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® and Kester Wax K 80 P ^® by Koster Keunen.

Reference may be made to the product name "NC 1630" sold by Euphorbia cerifera wax, for example Cera Rica Noda.

In addition, mention may be made to the article name "Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P" sold by Strahl & Pitsch, for example.

In one preferred embodiment, the wax of the present invention having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C. and solid at ambient temperature is a candelilla, a wax, or a mixture thereof.

The wax may be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, particularly 1% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the solid fat matrix is solid at ambient temperature and has a melting point equal to or higher than 30 ° C.

In another embodiment, the solid fat substrate is selected from C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes, solid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

The C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane is a straight or branched chain alkane having 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In one preferred embodiment, the C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane is octadecane (C ₁₈ H ₃₈ ), nonadecane (C ₁₉ H ₄₀ ), eic acid (C ₂₀ H ₄₂ ), henecoic acid (C ₂₁ H ₄₄₎ ), Tricoic acid (C ₂₃ H ₄₈ ), tetracoic acid (C ₂₄ H ₅₀ ), pentacoic acid (C ₂₅ H ₅₂ ), hexacoic acid (C ₂₆ H ₅₄ ), heptaconic acid (C ₂₇ H ₅₆ ), octacoic acid (C ₂₈ H ₅₈ ), nonacoic acid (C ₂₉ H ₆₀ ), triacontan (C ₃₀ H ₆₂ ), isononyl isononanoate, or mixtures thereof. More particularly, C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes are selected from octadecane, isononyl isononanoate, and any mixtures thereof.

The following can be mentioned as an example of the C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkane used in the present invention.

-Octadecan, for example "Parafol 18-97" sold by Sasol.

The ester of the present invention is solid at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The fatty esters used in the compositions of the present invention are preferably saturated fatty esters, ie saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 6 carbon atoms and saturated fatty monoalcohols containing at least 12 carbon atoms.

The saturated acid or monoalcohol may be straight or branched chain. The saturated carboxylic acid preferably contains 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms. These may be optionally hydroxylated.

The saturated fatty monoalcohol preferably contains 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid ester is selected from esters of C _6-12 fatty acids and C _16-24 monoalcohols.

More preferably, the fatty acid can be selected from heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, or mixtures thereof, and the fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Can be.

In particular, mention may be made of stearyl heptanoate.

Such products are available, for example, as the product Tegosoft ^® SH sold by Evonik Goldschmidt.

In one particularly preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substrate is selected from octadecane, stearyl heptanoate, or mixtures thereof.

The solid fat substrate may be present in a ratio of 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the fat phase may represent 20% to 60% by weight, preferably 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

In a known manner, the compositions of the present invention may all contain one or more adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, including hydrophilic or lipid-friendly gelling agents and / or thickening agents; Fillers; Moisturizers; Emollient; Hydrophilic or lipid affinity active ingredients; Free radical inhibitors; Metal blockers; Antioxidants; Preservatives; Basicizing or acidifying agents; air freshener; Film formers; Coloring material; And mixtures thereof. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those commonly used in foundations.

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least 0.1% by weight, in particular at least 3% by weight, in fact at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further include at least one filler.

The filler may be present in the emulsion in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight. In particular, talc, mica, silica, kaolin, modified or unmodified starch, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, synthetic polymers in powder form, for example polyethylene, polyester, poly Amides, such as those sold under the trade name “Nylon”, or polytetrafluoroethylene (“Teflon”), silicone elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, such as diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl di Phenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymers, and hydrophobic calcined silica, such as silica dimethyl silylate.

For example, boron nitride is marketed under the trade name "Softouch boron nitride powder CC6058" by Momentive Performance Materials.

For example, the hydrophobic calcined silica is, for example, the product name "Aerosil R812 ^® " by Degussa, the product name "Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ^® by Cabot"", a product name by Degussa" Aerosil (Aerosil) ^® R972 "and" Aerosil (Aerosil) R974® "by, Cabot by four" Cab-O-Sil TS- 610 ® "and" Cab-O -Sil TS-720 ^® .

In one preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic calcined silica is silica dimethyl silylate. As an example, the silica dimethyl silylate is sold by Degussa under the name Aerosil R972 ^® .

Prepared from vaporized silicon tetrachloride, which is oxidized to hydrogen and oxygen in a hot flame, hydrophobized aerosil silicon dioxide (Aerosil R972 ^® ) provides several very important advantages for formulation and processing.

Actually, it is as follows:

-Gives thickening effect and thixotropy to liquid substances by dispersion

-Improve the possibility of pigment suspension

-Increased stabilization of large emulsion droplets

-Water beads discharge effect guaranteed without any impact

-Accelerate the emulsification process and shorten the batch time; And

-Easier process

In one embodiment, the silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin is diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

The silicone elastomer powder is coated with a silicone resin. According to one embodiment, the silicone resin may be, for example, silsesquioxane resin, as described in US Pat. No. 5 538 793.

For example, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer is sold by Shin-Etsu under the trade name KSP-300.

In one embodiment, the silicone elastomer powder coated with the silicone resin is, for example, non-emulsifiable, and in at least one embodiment, spherical, which is 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the composition. , For example, may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight.

As modified or unmodified starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate sold under the trade name Dry Flo Plus by Akzo Nobel can be mentioned. In one preferred embodiment, the filler is selected from boron nitride, silica dimethyl silylate, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, or mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one pigment. With respect to the pigments, they may be water-soluble coloring materials of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, pigments, pearl foil preparations and mixtures thereof.

"Pigment" is a white or colored organic or inorganic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, non-interfering particle that is intended to color the composition insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media.

Inorganic pigments usable in the present invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and also oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

Organic pigments usable in the present invention include diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP), cochinyl, as described in EP-A-542-669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96 / 08537 Carmine-based, also barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum based lakes, or D & C pigments are included.

Advantageously, the pigments usable in the present invention are treated or untreated hydrophobic pigments.

As the inorganic pigment, one selected from titanium oxide and iron oxide (especially sulfur, black and red) treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent may be used.

The pigments of the invention are preferably surface treated in whole or in part with a hydrophobic treatment agent, more particularly with fluoro, fatty acids or amino acids, or silicone compounds, or mixtures thereof.

For example, the hydrophobic treatment agent may include fatty acids such as stearic acid; Metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; Perfluoroalkyl phosphate and polyhexafluoropropylene oxide; Perfluoropolyethers; amino acid; N-acylamino acid or salt thereof; Lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and silicone compounds such as dimethicone or polydimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophobic treating agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. do.

More preferably, the hydrophobic treatment agent is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The surface-treated pigment can be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. It is also possible to use commercial products.

The surface treatment agent can be absorbed or adsorbed on the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and generation of covalent bonds.

According to one variant, the surface treatment comprises a coating of pigments.

The coating may be represented by 0.1% to 10% by weight, more particularly 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating may be subjected to simple agitation of the pigment and the surface treatment agent, optionally under thermal conditions, prior to incorporation of the pigment into other components of the care or makeup composition, for example by adsorption of a liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of the pigment. Mixing.

Coating can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of the surface of the pigment with a surface treatment agent and the formation of a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the pigment. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

Amino acid or fatty acid treatment

* The hydrophobic treatment agent is a fatty acid, for example, stearic acid; Metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acid; N-acylamino acid or salt thereof; Lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (also called ITT), and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acid may include an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. Salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The fatty acid in the present invention is more particularly an acid having a hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids include those containing disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pairs, which are trade names NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI from Miyoshi Kasei -C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33-9001-10 Is becoming.

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyltitanium triisostearate (ITT) are trade names BWBO-12 (iron CICI9999 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12 (iron iron CI77492 and isopropyl) by Kobo Titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI77491 and and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

Pigments, preferably coated with fatty acids, such as those containing a disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair are used in the present invention.

Preferably, the pigments of the present invention are selected from titanium oxide, pigments coated with fatty acids, for example, those containing a disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair, or mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain up to 18% by weight of pigment based on the total weight of the composition.

Likewise, the composition according to the invention may further comprise an active compound.

Examples of active compounds that can be used in the composition of the present invention include, for example, moisturizing agents, such as proteolytic products; Vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters), and their mixture; Urea; Caffeine; Salicylic acid and its derivatives; Alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, and derivatives thereof; Retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; Sunscreen; Essential oils of mint, aloe vera or ginseng and mixtures thereof; Ethyl mentane carboxamide can be mentioned.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further include ethyl mentan carboxamide, which is at least one active compound.

In one preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may also include chemical sunscreens, such as UV-A or UV-B blockers, that can be used in the cosmetic field. The sunscreen (or UV blocker) may be selected from organic blockers, physical blockers and mixtures thereof, more particularly ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide or mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention also includes polymers such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate; Preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; Solvents such as glycerin; It may include at least one adjuvant selected from various compounds.

Of course, those skilled in the art should pay attention to any adjuvants added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties inherently bound to the composition according to the invention are not substantially and adversely affected by the anticipated addition. Will choose.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

Example

A silicone oil-in-water emulsion formulation suitable for the present invention was prepared from the following composition (the ratio is converted based on the weight of the total composition, and the active material ratio (MA) is correct if necessary).

Prize
INCI name (brand name and supplier)
The inventive formulation,
Active ingredient weight% Comparative formulation
Active ingredient weight% One 2 3 4 One 2 A
Titanium dioxide and disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Iron oxide and disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide Iron oxide and disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide Iron oxide and disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide Candelilla (EUPHORBIA CERIFERA) wax (NC 1630, manufactured by CERA RICA NODA) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 0 2.5 Zirab (OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P, manufactured by STRAHL & PITSCH) 0 0.5 0.5 0.5 0 0.5 Stearyl heptanoate (manufactured by TEGOSOFT SH, EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 0 3 3 3 0 3 Octadecan (PARAFOL 18-97, manufactured by SASOL) 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 0 6.5 Boron nitride (SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE POWDER CC6058, manufactured by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 0 0 One One 0 One Silica dimethyl silylate (AEROSIL R 972, manufactured by EVONIK DEGUSSA) 0 0 0.2 0.2 0 0.2 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 0 0 0 3 0 0 Ethyl mentane carboxamide 0 0 0 0.1 0 0 Aluminum starch octenyl succinate (DRY FLO PLUS, manufactured by AKZO NOBEL) 0 0 One One 0 One Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone (ABIL EM 90, EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (KSG 16, manufactured by SHIN ETSU) 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Dimethicone (viscosity 6 cst) 12 12 12 12 12 12 PEG-10 dimethicone (KF-6017, manufactured by SHIN ETSU) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer (KSP 300, manufactured by SHIN ETSU 0 0 0.5 0.5 0 0.5 B water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Sodium chloride 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Glycol 6 6 6 6 6 6

The formulations listed in the above table were prepared according to the following steps. Phase A was weighed together and heated to 80 ° C. with stirring until the phase was homogeneous using a Moritz type stirrer.

Phase B was heated to 80 ° C.

Phase B was slowly added to Phase A with stirring using a Moritz type stirrer and a minimum temperature of 75 ° C. was maintained during the addition.

Subsequently, the formulations 1 to 4 of the present invention were molded respectively to obtain a uniform compact foundation, while the comparative formulations 1 and 2 were filled in tubes to obtain a foundation product.

Each of the compositions of the inventive formulations 1 to 4 was also tested for the user. Skin sensations such as water release effect, cooling effect, and melting effect of the compact foundations 1 to 4 obtained from the composition of the present invention, and ease of use, 12 consumers each of the compact foundations obtained from the compositions of the present invention formulations 1 to 4 It was evaluated by applying 0.1 g of each on the inside of the arm. The consumers were asked to observe the moisture release effect while applying the foundation and also to evaluate the cooling and melting effects at the same time.

Compared to the untreated area, a significant difference was observed between areas of the skin treated with the emulsion, and the treated skin was more moist than the untreated skin.

All the prepared emulsions have excellent stability, that is, the bulk viscosity and appearance are well maintained, but it is observed that the stability of such emulsions decreases with a decrease in the amount of cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone in the emulsion. Thus, the emulsion of composition 2 is more stable than the emulsion of composition 3, which itself is more stable than the emulsion of composition 4, which has somewhat released moisture on the surface of the emulsion.

Example 2

The stability, ease of use, and skin sensation of the formulations of the present invention and comparative formulations were evaluated.

The stability of the compositions of the inventive formulations and comparative formulations was evaluated for 8 weeks at 45 ° C, 37 ° C, and 4 ° C.

Each of the inventive and comparative formulations described above was also tested for the user. For the skin sensation, ease of use, and stability, such as the moisture release effect, cooling effect and melting effect of the present invention and the comparative formulation, 12 consumers each evaluated the formulation by applying the inside of the 0.1 g arm. The consumers were asked to score the effects they wanted to test. 5 represents excellence, 4 is very good, 3 is acceptable, 2 is unacceptable bad, and 1 is very bad. the results are as follow:

Formulations of the invention Comparative formulation One 2 3 4 One 2 texture solid solid solid solid Liquid Liquid Compact with packaging tool and mirror Yes Yes Yes Yes No No Newv No No No No Yes Yes Ease of use 5 5 5 5 2 2 Water beads release effect 5 5 5 5 5 5 Cooling effect 5 4 5 5 3 3 Melting effect 5 4 5 5 One One stability 5 5 5 5 5 5

Formulations 1 to 4 of the present invention are easy to mold into compact foundations due to their solid texture, whereby consumers have found that they can be used with an application tool or one hand for skin makeup. It was very convenient for consumers to replenish their makeup during the day. On the other hand, due to their liquid texture, the comparative formulations 1 and 2 placed in the tube are not easy to apply to the skin. They needed to use both hands to apply to the consumer. In terms of skin sensation, it was found that the present invention and the comparative formulations had good water bead release and cooling effects. Formulations 1 to 4 of the present invention had an improved melting effect compared to comparative formulations 1 and 2, due to the fact that during application, the solid form of the present invention turns into a liquid texture on the skin.

Finally, the formulations of the present invention and comparative formulations were found to have good stability at different temperatures.

Claims (17)

A solid composition for makeup and / or care of a keratin material in the form of an aqueous emulsion in silicone oil comprising a solid fat phase and an aqueous phase, the composition comprising
(i) at least one silicone elastomer
(ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol
(iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone
(iv) at least one wax having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C, and
(v) A composition comprising at least one solid fatty substrate comprising a combination of C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes or solid esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes and fatty acids and solid esters of fatty alcohols. According to claim 1,
An elastomeric crosslinked ore wherein the silicone elastomer can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane containing an ethylenically unsaturated group bonded to silicon. A composition that is a ganopolysiloxane. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The composition wherein the dimethicone copolyol has the structure of formula (I).
[Formula 1]

(I)
In the above formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are independently of each other a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or a-(CH ₂ ) _x- (OCH ₂ CH2) _y- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ radical, at least One R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ radical is not an alkyl radical, R ₄ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₄ acyl radical,
A is an integer from 0 to 200,
B is an integer from 0 to 50, except that A and B are not 0 at the same time,
x is an integer from 1 to 6,
y is an integer from 1 to 30,
z is an integer from 0 to 5. According to claim 3,
In the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I), R ₁ = R ₃ = methyl radical, x is an integer from 2 to 6, and y is an integer from 4 to 30. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone has the structure of formula (IV).
[Formula 4]

(IV)
In the above formula,
PE represents a group of (-C ₂ H ₄ O) _x- (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y -R, wherein R is selected from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x is from 0 to 100 Is an integer, y is an integer from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously 0,
m is an integer from 1 to 40, n is an integer from 10 to 200, o is an integer from 1 to 100, p is an integer from 7 to 21, and q is an integer from 0 to 4. The method of claim 5,
The (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone is cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The wax is beeswax, carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japan wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, A composition selected from polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and fatty esters. The method of claim 7,
A composition in which the wax is candelilla, wax, or a mixture thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The wax is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The solid fatty substrate is a composition comprising octadecane or a combination of octadecane and stearyl heptanoate. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The composition wherein the solid fat matrix is present in a proportion of 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The composition further comprises at least one glycol, wherein the glycol is selected from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The composition further comprises at least one filler. The method of claim 13,
The filler is a composition selected from boron nitride, silica dimethyl silylate, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
The composition further comprises a pigment selected from titanium oxide, fatty acid coated pigments, or mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
A composition that is a foundation in the form of a compact powder or molded solid product. On the keratin material,
(i) at least one silicone elastomer
(ii) at least one dimethicone copolyol
(iii) at least one (C ₈ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl dimethicone
(iv) at least one wax having a melting point equal to or higher than 60 ° C, and
(v) a solid fat phase comprising at least one solid fatty substrate selected from C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ alkanes, fatty esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and an aqueous emulsion form in silicone oil comprising a water phase. A method for non-therapeutic care and / or makeup of the skin, comprising applying a solid composition for makeup and / or care of the keratin materials of the.