WO2020252786A1

WO2020252786A1 - Solid cosmetic composition in form of water-in-silicone emulsion

Info

Publication number: WO2020252786A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/092397
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yujie Zhao
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-06-21
Filing date: 2019-06-21
Publication date: 2020-12-24

Abstract

Disclosed is a solid cosmetic composition in form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprising a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase, and comprising: (i) at least one silicone elastomer, (ii) at least one oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, (iii) at least one (C₈-C₂₂) alkyl dimethicone copolyol, (iv) at least one wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C, (v) at least one solid fatty substance selected from C₁₈-C₃₀ alkane, solid ester of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof; and (vi) at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprising a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone. Also disclosed is a cosmetic method for caring and/or making up keratin materials, comprising said composition on the keratin materials.

Description

SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF WATER-IN-SILICONE EMULSION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin. Particularly, the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in the form of water-in-silicone emulsion. The present invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, particularly the skin.

BACKGROUND ART

Foundation compositions are commonly used to contribute to an attractive color of the skin, in particular the face, and/or conceal imperfections of the skin, such as red blotches or blemishes. Conventional foundations exist in fluid or solid form, and each possesses its own advantages due to its form. In general, consumers are attracted by a cosmetic composition, especially a foundation, which is easy to use and brings to the skin a good sensory.

By “easy to use” we intend to mean the composition is easy to carry with and to apply on the skin.

By “sensory” we intend to mean a water release effect, a cooling effect, and a melting effect. The water release effect refers to a very fresh feeling via the water droplets on keratin materials in particular the skin and a long time moisturization; the cooling effect refers to a feeling of immediate temperature decrease on the keratin materials after application of a composition; and the melting effect refers to a texture change solidity to fluidity when applying a composition on keratin materials.

Efforts have been made to develop cosmetic compositions with these properties.

The patent application WO 2012/145862 discloses fluid foundation compositions in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, at least one dimethicone copolyol, and at least one C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone. The fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil and/or at least one nonvolatile oil and optionally at least one wax.

However, the foundations of the prior art, due to their fluid form, are found not easy to carry with and apply on the skin.

Besides, the stability during transportation and the skin sensory after applying on the skin are still to be improved.

Therefore, there is a need for developing solid cosmetic compositions which are easy to carry with and to apply on the skin, with the fingers or an applicator by the users.

There is also a need for developing a solid cosmetic compositions for the skin that, when applied on the skin and more particularly on the face and/or neck, allow a good sensory, i.e., water release effect, cooling sensory, and moreover melting effect, while presenting a good stability over time and temperature variations, even during transportation.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition, in particular a solid foundation composition, in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion.

The present invention also aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition, in particular a solid foundation composition, in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, which is easy to carry with and apply on the skin, with the fingers or an applicator by the users, presenting a good stability over time and temperature variations, even during transportation.

The present invention also aims to provide a solid cosmetic composition, in particular a solid foundation composition, in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, that when applied on the skin and more particularly on the face and/or neck, allow good skin sensory, i.e., water release effect, melting effect, and cooling sensory, while presenting a good stability over time and temperature variations, even during transportation.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, comprising a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one silicone elastomer,

(ii) at least one oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane,

(iii) at least one (C ₈-C ₂₂) alkyl dimethicone copolyol,

(iv) at least one wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃,

(v) at least one solid fatty substance selected from C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane, solid ester of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and

(vi) at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprising a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone.

Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention provides a good water release effect, melting effect, and cooling sensory while presenting a good stability over time and temperature variations, even during transportation.

More surprising, it has been observed that, the combination of at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60℃ and at least one solid fatty substance improves the melting and cooling sensory.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for caring and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition of the present invention on the keratin materials.

The inventors have indeed found that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is easy to carry with, very easy to apply to the skin, to cover uniformly the skin and provide the user with a feeling of freshness and a long time moisturization after application. In addition, is very thin and light, and has a very good balance of skincare efficacy perception (fresh and moisturization) as well as make-up efficacy (proper coverage) .

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follows.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The present invention may be better understood from reading the following detailed description, and with reference to the attached Figures, in which:

FIG. 1 is a photo showing there are cracks on the surface of the foundation.

FIG. 2 is a photo showing the foundation is shifted.

FIG. 3 is a photo showing the foundation according to the present invention formula is acceptable after 5 drops in the transportation-drop test.

FIG. 4 is a photo showing the foundation of the comparative formula is not acceptable after 3 drops in the transportation-drop test.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to according to one aspect, the present invention provides a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion, comprising a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one silicone elastomer,

(iii) at least one (C ₈-C ₂₂) alkyl dimethicone copolyol,

(iv) at least one wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃,

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from... to... " .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Human skin, in particular face and neck, are most particularly considered according to the present invention.

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.

As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a foundation preferably under the form of compact emulsion or cast solid products.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "solid” means the composition does not flow under its own weight at room temperature (25℃) .

In particular, the term "solid composition" means a composition which hardness at 20℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm ^-1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.

The hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol.

The composition the hardness of which is to be determined is stored at 20℃ for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20℃ via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 μm in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.

The hardness of a sample of the composition of the present invention, expressed in Nm ^-1, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .

The hardness is converted into Nm ^-1 by the equation below:

(Y×10 ^-3×9.8) /L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

Silicone elastomer

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer also named organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The term "silicone" is understood to denote, in conformity with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a branched or crosslinked and linear or cyclic structure of variable molecular weight obtained by polymerisation and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalised silanes and essentially composed of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond≡Si-O-Si≡) , optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The commonest hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular C ₁-C ₁₀ alkyl radicals and especially methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals and aryl radicals, in particular phenyl radicals. They can, for example, be substituted by C ₁-C ₄₀ ester or ether groups or C ₇-C ₆₀ aralkyl groups.

The silicone elastomer might be an emulsifying elastomer or a non-emulsifying elastomer.

In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units, which is also known under the name of non-emulsifying elastomer.

In one embodiment, the silicone elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, or non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, can be defined as being an elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking coupling reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound; or by crosslinking coupling reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of (A1) diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, and of (B1) diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, especially in the presence of (C1) a platinium catalyst, as described, for example in patent application EP 0 295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinium catalyst.

Diorganopolysiloxane (A1) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane (A1) with diorganopolysiloxane (B1) in the presence of the catalyst (C1) .

Diorganopolysiloxane (A1) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C ₂-C ₄) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The diorganopolysiloxane (A1) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred. Diorganopolysiloxane (A1) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, diorganopolysiloxane (A1) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25℃.

The diorganopolysiloxanes (A1) may be selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolylmers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

Diorganopolysiloxane (B1) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for diorganopolysiloxane (A1) .

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of diorganopolysiloxane (A1) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of diorganopolysiloxane (B1) is at least 4.

Diorganopolysiloxane (B1) may be in any molecular structure, especially of linear-chain or branched-chain structure, or cyclic structure.

Diorganopolysiloxane (B1) may have a viscosity at 25℃ ranging from 1 to 50000 centistokes, especially in order to have good miscibility with compound (A) .

It is advantageous for diorganopolysiloxane (B1) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in diorganopolysiloxane (B1) and the total amount of all of the ethylenically unsaturated groups in diorganopolysiloxane (A1) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (B1) may be selected from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C1) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C1) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A1) and (B1) .

Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A1) and (B1) described above, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3, 3, 3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

According to one preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is particularly in the form of non-spherical particles.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean oil essentially formed and even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms which does not comprise silicon or fluorine atom; it can comprise ester, ether, amine and amide groups.

The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil mixed with the organopolysiloxane elastomer to form a gel is a linear silicone oil (dimethylsiloxane) with molecular weight ranging from 1 to 350 cst at 25℃, in particular 2 to 100 cst and preferably 2 to 10 cst. The silicone oil viscosity might be measured according to ASTM D-445 norm.

As examples of organopolysiloxane elastomer mixed with linear silicone oil, used in the present invention, mention may be made of the following references:

- DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE, such as the commercial references KSG-6 and KSG-16 sold by Shin Etsu;

- DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as the commercial reference DC9041 sold by Dow Corning.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer in a form of a gel wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 cst at 25℃, in particular 1 to 10 cst at 25℃, in particular the one having INCI Name DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE, such as the commercial references KSG-6 and KSG-16 sold by Shin Etsu, preferably KSG-16.

In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is an emulsifying elastomer.

Emulsifying silicone elastomer is understood as meaning a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer can be selected from the elastomers of polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated silicone.

The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and one polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

The polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in the patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

As a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer, it is possible to use those marketed under the names "KSG-21" , "KSG-20" , "KSG-30" , "KSG-210" , "KSG-310" , "KSG-320" , "KSG-330" , "KSG-340" , "X-226146" by Shin Etsu, and "DC9010" , "DC9011" by Dow Corning.

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Such polyglycerolated elastomers are especially described in the patent application WO2004/024798.

As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, it is possible to use those sold under the names "KSG-710" , "KSG-810" , "KSG-820" , "KSG-830" , "KSG-840" by Shin Etsu.

In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxaneelastomer is a non-emulsifying elastomer, i.e. an organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain.

The non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040, DC9041, DC9509, DC9505 and DC9506 by the company Dow Corning, Gransil by the company Grant Industries, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

The non-emulsifying elastomer that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, more particularly those sold under the names KSG-15 and KSG-16, and preferentially the one sold under the name KSG-16.

KSG-16 is a gel composed of 24%of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and of 76%of dimethicone.

KSG-15 is a gel composed of 6%of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, and of 94%of cyclodimethicone.

In a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer has INCI name dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, in particular an non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 0.3%by weight, of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one gel composed from dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as for example KSG-16, as non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

In a more preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise KSG-16 as non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 3%, preferably from 0.1%to 2%by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane.

Use may be made, as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, of those corresponding to the following formula (I) :

in which:

R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ represent, independently of one another, a C ₁-C ₆ alkyl radical or a- (CH ₂) _x- (OCH ₂CH2) _y- (OCH ₂CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OR ₄ radical, at least one R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ radical not being an alkyl radical; R ₄ being a hydrogen, a C ₁-C ₃ alkyl radical or a C ₂-C ₄ acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I) , R ₁=R ₃=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30, R ₄ is in particular hydrogen.

Mention may be made, as examples of compounds of formula (I) , of the compounds of formula (II) :

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 5 to 20.

Mention may also be made, as examples of compounds of formula (I) , of the compounds of formula (III) :

HO- (CH ₂CH ₂O) _y- (CH ₂) ₃- [ (CH ₃) ₂SiO] _A’ - (CH ₂) ₃- (OCH ₂CH ₂) _y-OH (III)

in which A' and y are integers ranging from 5 to 20, preferably from 8 to 20.

As Examples of oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, mention can be made to PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

Use may be made, as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, of those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning; and KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane one of those sold under the names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu, and more particularly KF-6017. The INCI name of KF-6017 is PEG-10 dimethicone.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 1%by weight, and preferentially from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a more preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise PEG-10 dimethicone as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 1%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise PEG-10 dimethicone as oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, and a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain.

C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol

As indicated previously, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

For the purpose of the present invention, C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is different from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane as defined above.

Advantageously, the presence of C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol renders the compositions according to the present invention a good stability at ambient temperature (25℃) . The composition according to the present invention also exhibits a good stability at 37℃ or 45℃, in particular after storing for 2 months.

This C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C ₈-C ₂₂) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

The C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV) :

wherein:

- PE represents from group (-C ₂H ₄O) _x- (C ₃H ₆O) _y-R, wherein R is selected from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21, and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.

Preferably, R is a hydrogen atom, m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, p is 15, and q is 3.

In a preferred embodiment, the at least one C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is selected from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the prod uct marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the at least one C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 1.5%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, and more particularly from 0.1%to 0.8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

Abil EM-90 is a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.

In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone as C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol, in an a mount ranging from 0.1%to 1.5%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, and more particularly from 0.1%to 0.8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone as C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol and a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain, a PEG-10 dimethicone as dimethicone copolyol, and a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone as C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises from 0. 1%to 0.3%by weight of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer in active material, from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight of PEG-10 dimethicone, and 0.1%to 0.8%by weight of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil comprising a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone.

As defined previously, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

As examples of the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention can be made to:

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, for example phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203) , triglycerides constituted by esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths from C4 to C36, in particular from C18 to C36, said oils possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; said oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, luzerne, poppy, Hokaido squash, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, or passiflora edulis seed oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, cameline seed oil, canola oil, carrot oil, carthame oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coprah oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheatgerm oil, coriandrum sativum (cariander) fruit oil, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, lys oil, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, hypericum oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, Hokaido squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soy oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by the supplier STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL

and

by the supplier DYNAMIT NOBEL,

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- squalane,

- isohexadecane, isoeicosane,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes, for instance Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol) , Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as for example

sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW =1340 g/mol) , Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol) , or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

- hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical,

- synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R ₁+R ₂≥16, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate; preferably, the preferred synthetic esters R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms are such that R ₁+R ₂≥18;

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as: vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, for example

V-216 marketed or produced by ISP (MW=7300 g/mol) ,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, in the composition according to the present invention, the at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and optional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, isohexadecane, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms are such that R ₁+R ₂≥18, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, in the composition according to the present invention, the at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and optional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, isohexadecane, R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms are such that R ₁+R ₂≥18, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, in the composition according to the present invention, the at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, for example, vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer and optional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, and 2-diethylhexyl succinate.

According to one preferred embodiment, in the composition according to the present invention, the at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer and optional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, and a mixture thereof.

Preferably, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 15%by weight and more preferably from 3%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the combination of (i) at least one silicone elastomer, (ii) at least one oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane, (iii) at least one C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol and (vi) at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in the composition in the form of a water-in-silicone emulsion according to the present invention provides water droplets with a larger size, i.e. 5-20μm, in comparison to traditional emulsions, with a good stability and an improved fresh sensation when applied on keratinic material. Consequently, it makes it possible to increase the amounts of water dispensed to the skin. Those bigger water droplets are moreover still easier to break than small droplets, i.e 2-5μm.

The inventors surprisingly found that the existence of a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer in the composition according to the present invention improves the stability during transportation.

In a preferred embodiment, the droplets in the compositions of the present invention have a size that ranges from 2μm to 50μm, particularly from 2μm to 40μm, more particularly from 5μm to 30μm, and preferably from 5μm to 20μm.

For the purpose of the present invention, “stable” refers to a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45℃, 37℃, and 4℃ for two months, and even after a transportation, does not, when returned to ambient temperature, exhibit grains perceptible to the touch when a fine layer of the composition is sheared between the fingers.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in an amount equal or above 40%by weight, in particular from 40%to 80%, especially between 45%and 60%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, this aqueous phase can comprise alcohol (s) , in particular ethanol; polyehthylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, maltitol, sorbitol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol or mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ether, and any mixture thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention can further comprise at least one polyol. Preferably, the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and any mixture thereof.

As an example, propylene glycol is sold under the reference “propylene glycol USP/EP” by Dow chemical.

The polyol can be present in an amount ranging from 3%to 20%by weight, preferably from 5%to 15%by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, .

The aqueous phase can additionally comprise stabilizing agents such as sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, magnesium sulphate, preferably sodium chloride.

Fatty phase

The composition according to the present invention comprises a solid fatty phase.

According to the present invention, the fatty phase comprises at least one wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃ and at least one solid fatty substance.

The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25℃) , with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃.

As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C ₈-C ₃₂fatty chains, preferably C ₁₆to C ₁₈ chains, silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, or a mixture thereof.

Mentions may be made of polyethylene which, for example, is sold under the tradename Performalene 500-L Polyethylene by the company New Phase Technologies.

Mention may also be made of fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C ₈-C ₃₂ fatty chains, preferably C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ chains. Among these compounds, mention may be made especially of stearic acid, palmitic acid, or a mixture thereof. The fatty acids used in the present invention are commercially available under the trade names, for example, AEC Stearic Acid sold by A&E Connock (Perfumery&Cosmetics) Ltd., Emersol sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC, Palmitic Acid PC sold by Protameen Chemicals, Inc.

As for esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, mention may be made to the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin

and

by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2792190.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ chain fatty alcohols such as those sold by the company SOPHIM under the brand names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57, are also convenient.

A wax that may be used is a C ₂₀-C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) , alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82

, Hydroxypolyester K 82

and Kester Wax K 80

by the company Koster Keunen.

Mentions may be made of candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera wax) , such as the one sold under the reference “NC 1630” sold by Cera Rica Noda,

Mentions may also be made of ozokerite, such as the commercial reference “Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P” sold by Strahl&Pitsch,

In a preferred embodiment, the wax (s) having a melting point greater than or equal to 60℃ is candelilla, ozokerites, or a mixture thereof.

The waxes can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably of 0.5%to 5%by weight and especially of 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the solid fatty substance is solid at ambient temperature and has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30℃.

In another embodiment, the solid fatty substance is selected from C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane, solid ester of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof.

The C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane is linear or branched alkane comprising from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

In a preferred embodiment, the C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane is selected from octadecane (C ₁₈H ₃₈) , nonadecane (C ₁₉H ₄₀) , eicosane (C ₂₀H ₄₂) , heneicosane (C ₂₁H ₄₄) , tricosane (C ₂₃H ₄₈) , tetracosane (C ₂₄H ₅₀) , pentacosane (C ₂₅H ₅₂) , hexacosane (C ₂₆H ₅₄) , heptacosane (C ₂₇H ₅₆) , octacosane (C ₂₈H ₅₈) , nonacosane (C ₂₉H ₆₀) , triacontane (C ₃₀H ₆₂) , or a mixture thereof. More particularly, the C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane is octadecane.

As example of C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane used in the present invention, mention may be made to Octadecane such as the commercial reference “Parafol 18-97” sold by Sasol.

The esters are solid at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa) .

The fatty esters used in the composition of the present invention are preferably saturated fatty esters, i.e. esters of saturated carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, and of saturated fatty monoalcohols comprising at least 12 carbon atoms.

The saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched. The saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

The saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and more particularly from 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid esters are selected from esters of C _6-12fatty acids and of C _16-24monoalcohols.

More preferably, the fatty acid may be selected from heptanoic acid, caprylic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, or a mixture thereof, and the fatty alcohol may be selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof.

Mentions maybe especially made of stearyl heptanoate.

Such products are commercially available, for example the product

SH sold by Evonik Goldschmidt.

In a particular preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance is selected from octadecane, stearyl heptanoate, or a mixture thereof.

The solid fatty substance can be present in an amount ranging from 1%to 10%by weight, preferably of 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the fatty phase can represent from 20%to 60%by weight, preferably from 20%to 40%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

In a known way, the composition of the present invention can comprise one or more of the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; fillers; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; colouring materials; and their mixtures.

The amounts of various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.

The composition according to the present invention can advantageously comprise more than 0.1%by weight, in particular more than 3%by weight, indeed more than 5%by weight of adjuvants, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention can further comprise at least one filler.

The fillers can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 3%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, starch, modified or unmodified, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, powders formed of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides, such as those sold under the "Nylon" tradename, or polytetrafluoroethylene ( "Teflon" ) , and a hydrophobic pyrogenic silica such as a silica dimethyl silylate.

For example, the boron nitride is sold under the reference “Softouch boron nitride powder CC6058” by Momentive performance materials.

For example, the hydrophobic pyrogenic silica are sold, for example, under the references "Aerosil

" by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil

"by Cabot and under the references "Aerosil

" and "Aerosil

" by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil

" and "Cab-O-Sil

" by Cabot.

In one preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic pyrogenic silica is a silica dimethyl silylate. As for example, the silica dimethyl silylate is sold under the name Aerosil

by Degussa.

Aerosil silicon dioxide, made from vaporized silicon tetrachloride oxidized in high-temperature flame with hydrogen and oxygen, treated by hydrophobation (Aerosil

) , delivers several high important benefits to the formula and process.

Indeed, it:

- gives thickening effect and thixotropy by dispersing to liquid materials;

- improves the possibility for pigment suspension;

- increases the stabilization of the big emulsion droplets;

- ensures water beads releasing effect without any impacts;

- speeds up emulsifying process and shortens batch time; and

- makes it easier to be processed.

As starch, modified or unmodified, mentions may be made of the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate sold under the name Dry Flo Plus by the company Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, the filler is selected from boron nitride, silica dimethyl silylate, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one pigment. As Examples of pigment, they can be water-soluble coloring materials of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

“Pigments” are white or coloured, organic or inorganic, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, non-interference particles which are insoluble in aqueous and non-aqueous media and are intended for colouring the composition.

Inorganic pigments can be used in the present invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and also oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, Prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

The organic pigments can be used in the present invention include D&C pigments, lakes based on cochineal carmine, and on barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium, or else the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) which are described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

Advantageously, the pigments can be used in the present invention is a hydrophobic pigment, treated or untreated.

Use will be made of inorganic pigments, selected more particularly from titanium oxides and iron oxides (especially yellow, black and red) , treated with at least one hydrophobic agent.

The pigments can be used in the present invention are preferably wholly or partly surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, more particularly with a fluoro, fatty acid or amino acid, or silicone compound, or a mixture thereof.

By way of example, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates and polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and silicone compounds such as dimethicones or polydimethylsiloxanes, an d m ixt ures th e reof.

The hydrophobic treatment agent is preferably selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the hydrophobic agent is selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, chemomechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques that are well known to the skilled person. It is also possible to use commercial products.

The surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one version, the surface treatment comprises a coating of the pigments.

The coating may represent from 0.1 to 10%by weight and more particularly from 1%to 5%by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigments.

Coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the pigments, by simple mixing with stirring of the pigments and of said surface agent, optionally under hot conditions, prior to the incorporation of the pigments into the other ingredients of the care or makeup composition.

Coating may be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments. This method is described especially in patent US 4,578,266.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyltitanate (or alternatively called ITT) , and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The fatty acids in the present invention are more particularly acids with hydrocarbon chains having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids include those containing the disodium stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide pairing, these being sold in particular under the trade name NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10, NAI-C33-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10, NAI-C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyltitanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade name BWBO-12 (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) , BWYO-12 (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-12 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo.

Preferably, pigments coated with fatty acids, such as those containing disodium stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide pairing are used in the present invention.

Preferably, the pigment, when exists, of the present invention is selected from titanium oxides, pigments coated with fatty acids, such as those containing the disodium stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide pairing, or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, a composition of the present invention can comprise up to 18%by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can moreover comprises at least one adjuvants selected from polymer such as aluminium starch octenylsuccinate; preservative such as phenoxyethanol; miscellaneous compound.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvants added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the present invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.

Active compounds

Likewise, the composition according to the present invention can further comprise active compounds.

Mention may be made, as active compound which can be used in the composition of the present invention, for example, of moisturising agents, such as protein hydrolysates; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , the derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, and their derivatives; retinoids, such as carotenoid and vitamin A derivatives; sunscreen; essential oils of mint, aloe vera or ginseng and their mixtures; ethyl menthane carboxamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention can further comprise at least one active compound is ethyl menthane carboxamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention can moreover comprise a chemical sunscreen such as any UV-A or UV-B screening agent which can be used in the cosmetics field. The sunscreens (or UV screening agents) can be selected from organic screening agents, physical screening agents and their mixtures, and can more particularly be selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnammate, titanium dioxide or their mixture.

Galenicform

The composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product.

More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of compact powder or cast solid product.

Method and use

The composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for/making up keratin materials such as the skin and more particularly the face and/or neck.

The composition according to the present invention can be applied on the skin, with the fingers or an applicator by the users.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for caring and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition of the present invention on the keratin materials.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understand by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention pertains.

The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

Example 1

Foundation in the form of water-in-silicone emulsion of invention formula (Inv. 1) and comparative formula (Comp. 1) were prepared from the following components (the percentages are expressed in%by weight of the total composition and the Active Material percentage (MA) is precised when required) :

* the amount of KSG 16 is 0.8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of formulas listed above were prepared according to the following steps:

Phase A was weighed together and was heated to 80℃ while stirring using a Moritz-type stirrer, until the phase was homogeneous;

Phase B were heated to 80℃

Phase B was slowly added to phase A while stirring using a Moritz-type stirrer and while retaining, during the addition, a minimum temperature of 75℃.

Then the composition of invention formula 1 was casted, and homogeneous compact foundations were obtained; whereas the composition of comparative formula 1 was filled in tubes to obtain the foundations.

Example 2

The stability, easiness to use, and the skin sensory of the foundations of invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1 were evaluated.

The stability of the foundations of invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1 were evaluated at 45℃, 37℃, and 4℃ for 8 weeks.

In addition, the stability during transportation is assessed with a transportation-drop test as follows.

Firstly, wrapping on each of the sampled compact foundation with a buffer, then let the foundation fall freely onto the floor from 86 cm (±2cm) above the floor, and after each fall, check the status of the foundation.

Transportation-drop test is used to simulate the transportation of delivery. The aim of this method is to check, after the foundation is subjected to a fall of 86 cm (±2cm) , the change of foundation including cracked on the surface and shifted.

Note: The samples to be tested must be at a temperature between 20 and 24℃.

After free falling to the floor, the foundation will be regarded as not acceptable if any of the following defects are observed within 5 drops:

(i) the cracks are observed on the surface of the foundation, for example, as demonstrated in the photo in Fig. 1;

(ii) the foundation is shifted, for example, as demonstrated in the photo in Fig. 2.

After the transportation-drop test, the foundation of invention formula 1 did not change at all and is acceptable after 5 drops, while the foundation of comparative formula 1 was cracked and shifted after 3 drops.

The easiness to use and the skin sensory, such as water release effect, cooling effect, and melting effect of the foundation 1 of invention formula 1 was evaluated by 12 consumers, by applying 0.1 g of the foundation of invention formula 1 on the inner forearms. The consumers were asked to observe the water release effect while applying the foundation, and to evaluate the cooling effect and the melting effect at the same time.

The consumers were asked to give scores to the effects tested. 5 stands for excellent, 4 stands for very good, 3 stands for acceptable, 2 stands for poor, not acceptable, and 1 stands for very poor. The results are as follow:

It was observed that, the composition of invention formula was easily casted as a compact foundation, which enabled the consumers to use with either single hand or applicators for making up the skin. It was very convenient for the consumers to supplement the makeups of the skin during the day.

In terms of skin sensory, it was observed that the composition of invention formula 1 and comparative formula 1 had good water beads release effect and cooling effect. As compared to the composition of comparative formula 1, the composition of invention formula 1 had improved melting effect, due to the fact that during application, the composition of invention formula 1, which was solid, changed to liquid texture on the skin.

Finally, it was observed that the composition of invention formula 1 had good stability at different temperatures and during transportation.

Claims

Solid cosmetic composition in form of a water-in-silicone emulsion comprising a solid fatty phase and an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one silicone elastomer,

(ii) at least one oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane,

(iii) at least one (C ₈-C ₂₂) alkyl dimethicone copolyol,

(iv) at least one wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60℃,

(v) at least one solid fatty substance selected from C ₁₈-C ₃₀ alkane, solid ester of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof; and

(vi) at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprising a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 0.6%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 0.3%by weight, of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane is of formula (I) :

in which:

R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ represent, independently of one another, a C ₁-C ₆ alkyl radical or a - (CH ₂) _x- (OCH ₂CH2) _y- (OCH ₂CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OR ₄ radical, at least one R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ radical not being an alkyl radical; R ₄ being a hydrogen, a C ₁-C ₃ alkyl radical or a C ₂-C ₄ acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5;

preferably, R ₁=R ₃=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30 in the dimethicone copolyol of formula (I) .
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl (methyl) siloxane is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 2%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 1%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (C ₈-C ₂₂) alkyl dimethicone copolyol is of formula (IV) :

wherein:

- PE represents from group (-C ₂H ₄O) _x- (C ₃H ₆O) _y-R, wherein R is selected from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200, o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21, and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4; preferably, the (C ₈-C ₂₂) alkyl dimethicone copolyol is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the C ₈-C ₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 1.5%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 1%by weight, and more particularly from 0.1%to 0.8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the wax is chosen amongst hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C ₈-C ₃₂ fatty chains, preferably C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ chains, silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, or a mixture thereof.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, preferably of 0.5%to 5%by weight and especially of 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the solid fatty substance is selected from octadecane, stearyl heptanoate, or a mixture thereof.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the solid fatty substance is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 10%by weight, preferably of 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and optional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms are such that R ₁+R ₂≥18, and mixtures thereof preferably comprises vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer and optional oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, isononyl isononanoate, and a mixture thereof.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 2%to 15%by weight and more preferably from 3%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 being a foundation preferably under the form of compact powder or cast solid product.
A cosmetic method for caring and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application of a composition according to any of claims 1-14 on the keratin materials.