CN112315829B - Color-changing foundation stick and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Color-changing foundation stick and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/0229—Sticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
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- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
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- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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Abstract
The invention discloses a color-changing foundation stick, and belongs to the field of cosmetics. The color-changing powder bottom rod can adjust the proportion of the coloring agent, the thickening agent and the emollient according to the requirements, the obtained product can be adjusted to present different color development effects when in use, and simultaneously has better paste softness, reduces the friction force between the paste and the skin, and has good stability while keeping whiteness when being applied; the product has good contractibility and convenient filling and demoulding. The water-in-oil emulsifying system is adopted to replace the traditional full oil type paste, so that the refreshing feeling and the air permeability of the product are improved, the use skin sticking performance is strong, and the formula cost is reduced. The invention also provides a preparation method of the color-changing powder bottom rod. The preparation method is simple to operate and can realize industrial mass production.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a color-changing foundation stick and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The foundation make-up stick product that has highlight and shade effect simultaneously in the existing market generally is two-head type (two kinds of materials), need switch repeatedly in the use, and the convenience is not enough. In addition, when coated color-changing particles are used in these solid products, the particles are liable to be broken and developed at an early stage due to excessive friction during application. Therefore, currently, commercially available color-changing base cosmetics are mainly in the form of emulsions, and few rod-shaped products with good stability and color-changing effect are available.
The color-changing particles commonly used in the industry at present mainly use cellulose as an adhesive for toner coating, the treated powder needs to be pre-soaked and softened according to the specified time and temperature, the production process has high requirements (if the emulsification time and temperature must be strictly controlled, a stirring paddle cannot scrape the wall, and the like), and the product quality is difficult to ensure to be consistent. On the other hand, most foundation stick products sold in the market at present are all-oil systems based on the aspects of simplifying the production process, guaranteeing the stability of the products and the like, and have poor air permeability, sticky skin feel and relatively high cost.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide the color-changing powder bottom rod which has different color-developing effects, stable color-developing effect, moderate hardness, strong skin-sticking property and high air permeability.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:
the color-changing foundation stick comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 12.5 to 35 percent of colorant, 25 to 55 percent of emollient, 4.5 to 14 percent of thickener, 1 to 5 percent of film forming agent, 2 to 6 percent of emulsifier, 0.5 to 2 percent of slipping agent, 0.3 to 1 percent of preservative, 2.05 to 10.5 percent of humectant and 10 to 20 percent of solvent; the colorant comprises colorant A, colorant B, colorant C, colorant D and colorant E; the colorant A comprises titanium dioxide, triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide; the colorant B comprises yellow iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1; the colorant C comprises red iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1; the colorant D comprises black iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1; the colorant E comprises mica and triethoxyoctylsilane; the thickening agents include polyethylene, microcrystalline waxes, and synthetic waxes.
In the foundation stick formula provided by the invention, by regulating and controlling the specific proportion of the colorant, the thickener and the emollient, the obtained product can present different color development effects according to the requirements of users when in use, has better paste softness, reduces the friction force between the paste and the skin, and has good stability while keeping whiteness when in application; in addition, the product has good contractibility, and is convenient to fill and demould; the water-in-oil emulsifying system is adopted to replace the traditional full oil type paste, so that the refreshing feeling and the air permeability of the product are improved, the skin-sticking performance is strong when the product is used, and the formula cost is reduced.
Preferably, the colorant comprises 10 to 20 weight percent of colorant A, 1 to 7 weight percent of colorant B, 0.5 to 4 weight percent of colorant C, 0.1 to 2 weight percent of colorant D and 0.5 to 2 weight percent of colorant E in the raw material components of the color-changing powder substrate rod. Because the main colors of all the coloring agents are different, the obtained color of the product obtained by matching the above proportions is closer to the color of the skin of a human body no matter which smearing mode is adopted, so that the cosmetic effect is natural.
Preferably, in the colorant a, the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77891 to the triethoxyoctylsilane to the aluminum hydroxide is as follows: CI77891: triethoxyoctylsilane: aluminum hydroxide = 85-95, 4-6:4-6. More preferably, the mass ratio of CI77891, triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide is: CI77891: triethoxyoctylsilane: aluminum hydroxide = 90.
Preferably, in the colorant B, the yellow iron oxide is CI77492, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77492 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica is as follows: CI 77492: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =44 to 52: 24-28. More preferably, the mass ratio is CI 77492: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 = 48.
Preferably, in the colorant C, the red iron oxide is CI77491, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77491 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica is as follows: CI 77491: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =44 to 52: 24-28. More preferably, the mass ratio is CI 77491: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48:26:15:5:6.
Preferably, in the colorant D, the black iron oxide is CI77499, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of CI77499, CI77891, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1 is as follows: CI 77499: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =44 to 52: 24-28. More preferably, the mass ratio is CI 77499: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48:26:15:5:6.
Preferably, in the colorant E, the mass ratio of the mica to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 85-95. More preferably, the mass ratio of mica to triethoxyoctylsilane is 95.
The prepared color-changing foundation cream stick has rich color types through the specific proportion matching of the components in the colorants A to E, and specific colors can be selected to be adjusted and displayed according to the requirements of the use process, and the displayed colors are more harmonious and natural.
Preferably, the colorant B, the colorant C and the colorant D are in a coating core-shell structure, the dimethyl silyl silica in the colorant is coated on the surface of the iron oxide through polyester-1 bonding, and the titanium dioxide and the mica are filled in pores of a surface layer; the colorant is color-changing particles prepared by a spray drying method. Through the structural design of the double-coated components, the prepared color-changing particles are subjected to certain extrusion and friction during use to break the wall, and the color of the iron oxide on the inner layer is gradually shown from the white color presented by the outer-layer titanium dioxide and mica, so that the color-changing and developing effect of a foundation rod product is achieved.
Preferably, the emollient comprises phenyl trimethicone, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate and octyldodecanol. More preferably, the emollient comprises 2 to 8 weight percent of phenyl trimethicone, 5 to 10 weight percent of propylene glycol dibenzoate, 5 to 10 weight percent of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 5 to 10 weight percent of isopropyl myristate, 5 to 10 weight percent of diisostearyl malate and 3 to 7 weight percent of octyldodecanol of the raw material components of the color-changing powder bottom bar. Through the compounding of the specific components, the emollient can ensure that the color-changing powder base rod has a good cosmetic effect, can well keep moisture and air permeability on skin, and keeps the skin tender.
Preferably, the thickening agent comprises 0.5-2% of polyethylene, 3-7% of microcrystalline wax and 1-5% of synthetic wax in percentage by weight of the raw material components of the color-changing powder bottom rod. In the thickening agent, the polyethylene has excellent thickening effect and oil compatibility, is compatible with most of cosmetic oil, can form a heat-stable rod-shaped formula product at a low dosage, and has dry and comfortable skin feel, no sticky feeling and weak skin-attaching property; the microcrystalline wax has a small crystal structure, has excellent ductility, is generally used for improving the toughness and the fracture resistance of the paste, and has relatively sticky skin feel; the synthetic wax has high melting point and can improve the thermal stability of the product. The material has high hardness, and can improve the toughness and the fracture temperature of a rod-shaped product. In addition, the resin has excellent shrinkage, and can improve the mold release property of a rod-shaped finished product; compared with the conventional common wax (such as beeswax, candelilla wax and the like) which has poor compatibility with silicone oil, lower melting point and weaker thickening effect in the traditional cosmetics, the microcrystalline wax and the synthetic wax are matched with polyethylene in proportion to be used as the thickening agent, so that the finally prepared color-changing foundation stick has moderate hardness, keeps good stability during smearing and cannot be melted at high temperature due to over-softness of the cream; meanwhile, the mold also has good contractibility, and is convenient for filling and demolding.
Preferably, the film former is a VP hexadecene copolymer.
Preferably, the emulsifier comprises sorbitan sesquioleate and lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl methicone. More preferably, the emulsifier comprises 1-3% by weight of sorbitan sesquioleate and 1-3% by weight of lauryl PEG-10 tri (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl polymethylsiloxane based on the raw material components of the color-changing powder bottom rod.
Preferably, the slip agent comprises at least one of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer, nylon-12, nylon-6, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and polymethyl methacrylate. The vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer is spherical powder, and can form rolling friction in the process of lightly coating a product by adding the vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer into a raw material formula, so that the phenomenon that the coating particles are broken in wall and are developed in advance due to excessively strong sliding friction shearing force is reduced. Meanwhile, due to the special silicon resin and silicon rubber composite structure of the powder, the powder has good elasticity, when the powder is smeared by fingers for use, the powder deforms due to the increase of shearing force, rolling friction is changed into sliding friction, the wall breaking of the coating particles of the coloring agent is assisted, the core pigment is released, and the color changing effect is formed.
Preferably, the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 9:1.
Preferably, the humectant comprises 0.05 to 0.5 weight percent of humectant A and 2 to 10 weight percent of humectant B; the humectant A is a mixture of octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 7:3; the humectant B is glycerol. Through the combination of the two moisturizing components, the prepared product has affinity to human skin, keeps the skin moisture and simultaneously ensures that the foundation does not crack.
Preferably, the solvent is water. By limiting the proportion of the solvent and using a water-in-oil emulsification system to replace the traditional full-oil system, the prepared color-changing foundation stick product can more flexibly contain water-soluble functional ingredients, meanwhile, the refreshing feeling of the product is increased, and the overall cost of the formula is also reduced.
Preferably, the color-changing powder bottom rod comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% colorant a, 4.5% colorant B, 1.2% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 1% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax, 2% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 2% sorbitan sesquioleate, 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant a, 4% humectant B, and 17.82% solvent; the colorant A comprises titanium dioxide, triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide, wherein the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of the CI77891 to the triethoxyoctylsilane to the aluminum hydroxide is as follows: CI77891: triethoxyoctylsilane: aluminum hydroxide = 90; the colorant B comprises yellow iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the yellow iron oxide is CI77492, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of CI77492 to CI77891 to mica to dimethyl silica silylate to polyester-1 is as follows: CI 77492: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 = 48; the colorant C comprises red iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the red iron oxide is CI77491, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of CI77491, CI77891, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1 is as follows: CI 77491: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48: 26; the colorant D comprises black iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the black iron oxide is CI77499, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of CI77499 to CI77891 to mica to silica dimethyl silylate to polyester-1 is as follows: CI 77499: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48: 26; the colorant E comprises mica and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the mica to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 95; the film forming agent is VP/hexadecene copolymer; the slip agent is vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer; the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 9:1; the humectant A is a mixture of octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 7:3; the humectant B is glycerol; the solvent is water. The color-changing foundation stick product prepared by compounding the limited components has optimal stability, skin applicability and color development effect.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the color-changing powder bed bar, the method comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing the colorant A and phenyl trimethyl siloxane and grinding into color paste;
(2) Mixing a thickening agent, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, octyldodecanol, a film forming agent and an emulsifier, heating to 80-85 ℃, adding the color paste obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring to obtain oily color paste;
(3) Sequentially adding the colorant B, the colorant C, the colorant D, the slipping agent and the colorant E into the oily color paste obtained in the step (2) and uniformly mixing to obtain an oily precursor;
(4) And (4) heating and uniformly mixing the preservative, the humectant and the solvent, slowly adding the mixture into the oily precursor obtained in the step (3), defoaming in vacuum, keeping the temperature at 80 ℃, stirring for 10min, filling, cooling and forming to obtain the variable color powder bottom rod.
The preparation method of the color-changing powder bottom rod has simple steps and operation, and can realize industrialized large-scale production.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the invention provides a color-changing powder base rod, which can adjust and display different color development effects according to the requirements of users by adjusting and controlling the specific proportion of a coloring agent, a thickening agent and an emollient, has better paste hardness, reduces the friction force between the paste and the skin, and has good stability while keeping whiteness during smearing; in addition, the product has good contractibility, and is convenient to fill and demould; the water-in-oil emulsifying system is adopted to replace the traditional full oil type paste, so that the refreshing feeling and the air permeability of the product are improved, the skin-sticking performance is strong when the product is used, and the formula cost is reduced. The invention also provides a preparation method of the color-changing powder bottom rod. The preparation method of the color-changing powder bottom rod is simple to operate and can realize industrial mass production.
Detailed Description
For better illustrating the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples, which are intended to be understood in detail, but not intended to limit the present invention.
Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in the following specific examples are all commercially available common commercial products, and the commercial types of the commercial products are as follows:
colorant A: ALT-TSR-10, MIYOSHI, japan;
and (3) a colorant B: bioGenic Magicolor-103YP, korea BioGenics Corp;
and (3) a colorant C: bioGenic Magicolor-103RP, korea BioGenics Corp;
colorant D: bioGenic Magicolor-103BP, korea BioGenics Corp;
colorant E: GH-108TS, chuzhou Gerui mining, inc.;
phenyl trimethicone: DOW CORNING 556FLUID, dow corporation, USA;
polyethylene: PERFORAMOLENE 400LYETHYLENE, new Phase, USA;
microcrystalline wax: MULTIWAX W445, SONNEBORN, USA;
and (3) synthesizing wax: POLARWACHS 30919, TROMM, germany;
propylene glycol dibenzoate: LEXFEEL SHINE, incolex, usa;
hydrogenated polyisobutene: PANALANE L-14E, vantage, USA;
isopropyl myristate: RADIA 7730, OLEON corporation, belgium;
diisostearyl malate: COSMOL 222, NISSHIN OILLIO, japan;
octyl dodecanol: EUTANOL G, BASF, germany;
VP/hexadecene copolymer: antaron V-216Polymer, ashland, USA;
sorbitan sesquioleate: COSMOL 82, NISSHIN oilio, japan;
lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl methicone: ES-5300, dow corporation, USA;
vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer: KSP-100, shin-Etsu Co, japan;
preservative: euxyl PE 9010, sch ü lke & Mayr, germany;
humectant B (glycerin): glycerin USP (99.5%), palmedia, malaysia.
Example 1
The invention discloses an embodiment of a color-changing powder bottom rod, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% colorant a, 4.5% colorant B, 1.2% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 1% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax, 2% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 2% sorbitan sesquioleate, 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant a, 4% humectant B, and 17.82% solvent; the colorant A comprises titanium dioxide, triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide, wherein the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of the CI77891 to the triethoxyoctylsilane to the aluminum hydroxide is as follows: CI77891: triethoxyoctylsilane: aluminum hydroxide = 90; the colorant B comprises yellow iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1, wherein the yellow iron oxide is CI77492, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77492 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica is as follows: CI 77492: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 = 48; the colorant C comprises red iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the red iron oxide is CI77491, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77491 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica is as follows: CI 77491: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48: 26; the colorant D comprises black iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the black iron oxide is CI77499, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of CI77499 to CI77891 to mica to silica dimethyl silylate to polyester-1 is as follows: CI 77499: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48: 26; the colorant E comprises mica and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the mica to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 95; the film-forming agent is a VP/hexadecene copolymer; the slip agent is vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer; the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 9:1; the humectant A is a mixture of octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 7:3; the humectant B is glycerol; the solvent is water.
The colorant B, the colorant C and the colorant D are of a coating core-shell structure.
The dimethyl silyl silica in the colorant is coated on the surface of the iron oxide through polyester-1 adhesion, and the titanium dioxide and the mica are filled in the pores of the surface layer; the colorant is color-changing particles prepared by a spray drying method.
The preparation method of the color-changing powder bottom rod comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the colorant A and phenyl trimethyl siloxane, and grinding the mixture into color paste by using a three-roller machine;
(2) Mixing a thickening agent, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, octyl dodecanol, a film forming agent and an emulsifier, heating to 80 ℃, adding the color paste obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring to obtain oily color paste;
(3) Sequentially adding the colorant B, the colorant C, the colorant D, the slipping agent and the colorant E into the oily color paste obtained in the step (2) and uniformly mixing to obtain an oily precursor;
(4) And (3) heating and uniformly mixing the preservative, the humectant and the solvent, slowly adding the mixture into the oily precursor obtained in the step (3), defoaming in vacuum, keeping the temperature at 80 ℃, stirring for 10min, filling a packaging material when the temperature is reduced to 75 ℃, cooling and forming to obtain the color-changing powder bottom rod.
Example 2
The difference between the present embodiment and embodiment 1 is only that the color-changing powder bottom rod comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10.68% colorant A, 7% colorant B, 0.5% colorant C, 2% colorant D, 2% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 2% polyethylene, 3% microcrystalline wax, 3.5% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 1% sorbitan sesquioleate, 3% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant A, 4% humectant B, and 17.82% solvent.
Example 3
The difference between the present embodiment and embodiment 1 is only that the color-changing powder bottom rod comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 16.58% colorant A, 1% colorant B, 4% colorant C, 0.1% colorant D, 0.5% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax, 2% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 2% sorbitan sesquioleate, 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl methicone, 2% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant A, 2% humectant B, and 18.82% solvent.
Example 4
The difference between the present embodiment and embodiment 1 is only that the color-changing powder bottom rod comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% colorant a, 4.5% colorant B, 1.2% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 1% colorant E, 8% phenyl trimethicone, 5% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 5% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 10% isopropyl myristate, 5% diisostearyl malate, 6% octyldodecanol, 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax, 2% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 3% sorbitan sesquioleate, 1% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant a, 4% humectant B, and 17.82% solvent.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the colorants B have a mass ratio of CI77492, CI77891, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1: CI 77492: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 = 64.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the colorants C contain CI77491, CI77891, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1 in the mass ratios: CI 77491: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48:16:15:8:3.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example differs from example 1 only in that polyester-1 in the colorant D is replaced with cellulose.
Comparative example 4
The comparative example only differs from example 1 in that the color-changing powder substrate rod comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 8% colorant A, 8% colorant B, 5% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 0.7% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax, 2% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 2% sorbitan sesquioleate, 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant A, 4% humectant B, and 17.82% solvent.
Comparative example 5
This comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the colorant B, colorant C, and colorant D are not in a coated core-shell structure, and the colorant components are uniformly mixed.
Comparative example 6
The comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the polyethylene in the thickener is replaced by paraffin wax.
Comparative example 7
The comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the microcrystalline wax in the thickener is replaced by paraffin wax.
Comparative example 8
The comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the synthetic wax in the thickener is replaced by paraffin wax.
Comparative example 9
The comparative example only differs from example 1 in that the color-changing powder substrate rod comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% colorant a, 4.5% colorant B, 1.2% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 1% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 3% polyethylene, 0.5% microcrystalline wax, 5% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 2% sorbitan sesquioleate, 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 0.1% humectant a, 4% humectant B, and 17.82% solvent.
Comparative example 10
This comparative example differs from example 1 only in that the vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer of the slip agent was replaced with silica.
In order to verify the use effect and the preservation effect of the color-changing powder bottom rod product, the products of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-10 are tested, and meanwhile, a full-oil system control group 1 is added as a control.
The control group 1 was a full oil system foundation stick product comprising the following components in weight percent: comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% colorant a, 4.5% colorant B, 1.2% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 1% colorant E, 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 27.82% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, 5% octyldodecanol, 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax, 2% synthetic wax, 3% film former, 2% sorbitan sesquioleate, 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silicon ethyl methicone, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, and 0.1% humectant; the colorant A comprises titanium dioxide, triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide, wherein the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of the CI77891 to the triethoxyoctylsilane to the aluminum hydroxide is as follows: CI77891: triethoxyoctylsilane: aluminum hydroxide = 90; the colorant B comprises yellow iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the yellow iron oxide is CI77492, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77492 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica is as follows: CI 77492: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 = 48; the colorant C comprises red iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1, wherein the red iron oxide is CI77491, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of the CI77491 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica is as follows: CI 77491: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48: 26; the colorant D comprises black iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, silica dimethyl silylate and polyester-1, wherein the black iron oxide is CI77499, and the titanium dioxide is CI77891; the mass ratio of CI77499, CI77891, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1 is as follows: CI 77499: CI77891: mica: silica dimethyl silylate: polyester-1 =48: 26; the colorant E comprises mica and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the mica to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 95; the film-forming agent is a VP/hexadecene copolymer; the slip agent is vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer; the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 9:1; the humectant is a mixture of octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerin, and the mass ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerin is 7:3.
The test items of the product comprise paste state, surface appearance, makeup state, filling condition, heat resistance test, cold resistance test, skin fitting degree, cool degree and smoothness degree, and the test method of the items comprises the following steps:
(1) Paste state: and (4) visually observing.
(2) Surface appearance: and (4) visually observing.
(3) The make-up state: and (3) filling the groups of samples into the same packaging material in an equal amount respectively, slightly smearing the samples on skin with the same strength, and observing the color development condition of the material body.
(4) Filling condition: and (3) filling the material bodies of all groups in a mode of pouring and drawing the die backwards, and observing whether the paste can be normally drawn out (phenomena of fracture, die sticking, sinking and the like do not occur) in the filling process.
(5) And (3) heat resistance test: adjusting the temperature of the constant temperature incubator to (48 +/-1) DEG C in advance, placing each group of samples in the constant temperature incubator for 24 hours, and observing the state of the paste after the temperature is recovered to the normal temperature.
(6) Cold resistance test: adjusting the temperature of a refrigerator to (-8 +/-2) DEG C in advance, placing each group of samples in the refrigerator, keeping the temperature for 24 hours, and observing the state of the paste after the temperature is restored to normal temperature.
(7) Skin adhesion degree: 20 volunteers (10 persons each, age 25-45 years) with healthy and similar skin condition were randomly selected for use testing. The evaluators applied equal amounts of samples to the arms, scored the skin-contact degree of each of the samples of examples 1 to 4, comparative examples 1 to 10, and control 1 (score 1 to 10, higher score indicates better skin-contact), summed the scores of the whole evaluators, and calculated the average value.
(8) Refreshing degree: 20 volunteers (10 men and women each, age 25-45 years) with healthy and closely matched skin conditions were randomly selected for use testing. The evaluators applied equal amounts of samples to the arms, respectively, and scored the freshness of each of the samples of examples 1 to 4, comparative examples 1 to 10, and control 1 (1 to 10 points, the higher the score, the better the freshness), and the scores of the whole evaluators were summed up to calculate the average value.
(5) Soft and slippery feeling: 20 volunteers (10 men and women each, age 25-45 years) with healthy and closely matched skin conditions were randomly selected for use testing. The examiner smears the same amount of samples on the arm, and scores the smooth feeling of each of the samples of examples 1 to 4, comparative examples 1 to 10, and control 1 (1 to 10 points, the higher the score, the better the smooth feeling), and calculates the average value by totaling the scores of the examiner.
The test results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
As can be seen from table 1, the products prepared in examples 1 to 4 had good appearance, skin-fitting property, makeup property and comfort after use, and good stability. As can be seen from the effects of comparative examples 1 and 2, when the proportions of the components in the colorant are improper (especially the components with core-shell structures), the wrapping structure of the colorant is unstable, so that the defects of color streaks and premature color development of the paste are caused; when the components in the colorant were replaced (comparative example 3), the skin-friendly feel of the product would be lower; when the proportion of each colorant component in the colorant in the product is not proper (comparative example 4), the condition that the paste has color streaks and the toner develops color prematurely in the using process can also be caused; as can be seen from the comparison of the product effects of the comparative example 5 and the examples, the colorant without the core-shell coating structure cannot present the appearance of white paste, and the color change effect of the product of the invention cannot be realized; compared with the foundation rod products using the common paraffin as the thickening agent in the comparative examples 6 to 8, the foundation rod products with the color change property have the advantages that the paste hardness cannot reach the standard, and the phenomenon that the foundation rod products cannot be pulled out or are broken in the die drawing process is easy to occur; meanwhile, according to the test result of the product obtained in the comparative example 9, the proportion of each component of the thickening agent can influence the paste state under the condition that the total amount and the components of the thickening agent are unchanged; as can be seen from the comparison of the properties of the products obtained in example 1 and comparative example 10, the same amount of silica as a slip aid does not achieve the tribo-coloring effect of the cross-linked polymer of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane of the present invention; as can be seen from the comparison of the products obtained in example 1 and control 1, the formulation of the water-in-oil system of the present invention improves the skin fit and application freshness of the product compared to the product of control 1 in the full oil system.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. The color-changing foundation rod is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 12.5 to 35 percent of colorant, 25 to 55 percent of emollient, 4.5 to 14 percent of thickener, 1~5 percent of film forming agent, 2~6 percent of emulsifier, 0.5 to 2 percent of lubricant, 0.3 to 1 percent of preservative, 2.05 to 10.5 percent of humectant and 10 to 20 percent of solvent;
the colorant comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 10 to 20 percent of a colorant A, 1~7 percent of a colorant B, 0.5 to 4 percent of a colorant C, 0.1 to 2 percent of a colorant D and 0.5 to 2 percent of a colorant E;
the colorant A is composed of titanium dioxide, triethoxyoctylsilane and aluminum hydroxide, the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of CI77891 to triethoxyoctylsilane to aluminum hydroxide is 90; the colorant B consists of yellow iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1, wherein the yellow iron oxide is CI77492, the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of CI77492, CI77891, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1 is 48; the colorant C is composed of red iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1, wherein the red iron oxide is CI77491, the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of CI77491 to CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica silylate to the polyester-1 is 48: 26; the colorant D is composed of black iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica, dimethyl silica silylate and polyester-1, wherein the black iron oxide is CI77499, the titanium dioxide is CI77891, and the mass ratio of the CI77499 to the CI77891 to the mica to the dimethyl silica silylate to the polyester-1 is 48: 26; the colorant E consists of mica and triethoxyoctylsilane, and the mass ratio of the mica to the triethoxyoctylsilane is 95; the coloring agent B, the coloring agent C and the coloring agent D are of a coated core-shell structure, the dimethyl silylated silica in the coloring agent B, the coloring agent C and the coloring agent D is bonded and coated on the surface of the iron oxide through polyester-1, and the titanium dioxide and the mica are filled in pores of a surface layer; the colorant B, the colorant C and the colorant D are color-changing particles prepared by a spray drying method;
the emollient comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 2~8% phenyl trimethicone, 5 to 10% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 5 to 10% hydrogenated polyisobutene, 5 to 10% isopropyl myristate, 5 to 10% diisostearyl malate and 3~7% octyldodecanol;
the thickening agent consists of the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 0.5 to 2 percent of polyethylene, 3~7 percent of microcrystalline wax and 1~5 percent of synthetic wax;
the film forming agent is VP/hexadecene copolymer;
the emulsifier comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 1~3% sorbitan sesquioleate and 1~3% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silaethyl methicone;
the slip agent is vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer;
the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 9:1;
the humectant comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 0.05 to 0.5 percent of humectant A and 2 to 10 percent of humectant B; the humectant A is a mixture of octyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol, and the mass ratio of the octyl glycol to the ethylhexyl glycerol is 7:3; the humectant B is glycerol;
the solvent is water.
2. The color changing foundation stick of claim 1, wherein the colorant is comprised of the following raw material components in weight percent of the color changing foundation stick: 15% of colorant A, 4.5% of colorant B, 1.2% of colorant C, 0.48% of colorant D and 1% of colorant E.
3. The color changing foundation stick of claim 1 wherein the emollient comprises the following raw material components in weight percent of the color changing foundation stick: 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate, and 5% octyldodecanol; the emulsifier comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 2% sorbitan sesquioleate and 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl methicone.
4. The color changing foundation stick of claim 1 wherein the thickener is comprised of the following raw material components in weight percent of the color changing powder foundation stick: 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax and 2% synthetic wax.
5. The color changing foundation bar of claim 1 wherein the color changing foundation bar is comprised of the following components in weight percent: 15% colorant a, 4.5% colorant B, 1.2% colorant C, 0.48% colorant D, 1% colorant E, 39% emollient, 8.5% thickener, 3% film former, 4% emulsifier, 1% glidant, 0.4% preservative, 4.1% humectant, and 17.82% solvent; the emollient is composed of the following raw materials in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 5% phenyl trimethicone, 8% propylene glycol dibenzoate, 8% hydrogenated polyisobutene, 6% isopropyl myristate, 7% diisostearyl malate and 5% octyldodecanol; the emulsifier comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 2% sorbitan sesquioleate and 2% lauryl PEG-10 tris (trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl methicone; the thickening agent comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 1% polyethylene, 5.5% microcrystalline wax and 2% synthetic wax; the humectant comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight of the color-changing powder bottom rod: 0.1% of humectant A and 4% of humectant B.
6. The method of making a color-changing powder bar of any one of claims 1~5 comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing the colorant A and phenyl trimethyl siloxane and grinding into color paste;
(2) Mixing a thickening agent, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, octyldodecanol, a film forming agent and an emulsifier, heating to 80-85 ℃, adding the color paste obtained in the step (1), and uniformly stirring to obtain an oily color paste;
(3) Sequentially adding the colorant B, the colorant C, the colorant D, the slipping agent and the colorant E into the oily color paste obtained in the step (2), and uniformly mixing to obtain an oily precursor;
(4) And (3) heating and uniformly mixing the preservative, the humectant and the solvent, slowly adding the mixture into the oily precursor obtained in the step (3), defoaming in vacuum, keeping the temperature at 80 ℃, stirring for 10min, filling, cooling and forming to obtain the color-changing powder bottom rod.
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CN107149562A (en) * | 2017-05-02 | 2017-09-12 | 上海沣禾生物科技有限公司 | The foundation cream premix that changes colour from deep to shallow, foundation compositions and preparation method thereof |
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CN107847421A (en) * | 2015-05-29 | 2018-03-27 | 莱雅公司 | Solid silicone bag water composition with water releasing effect |
CN107149562A (en) * | 2017-05-02 | 2017-09-12 | 上海沣禾生物科技有限公司 | The foundation cream premix that changes colour from deep to shallow, foundation compositions and preparation method thereof |
CN108096072A (en) * | 2017-12-21 | 2018-06-01 | 广州神采化妆品有限公司 | A kind of bloom foundation cream stick |
CN108771635A (en) * | 2018-08-15 | 2018-11-09 | 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 | A kind of foundation compositions and preparation method thereof |
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