CN116172908A - Soft and fog-like matte lip glaze and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to the field of IPC A61K8, and more particularly relates to a soft fog-like matte lip glaze and a preparation method thereof. The soft and fog-feeling matte lip glaze comprises raw materials including a thickening agent, an emollient, an emulsifying agent, a film forming agent, a silicone elastomer softening agent, a coloring agent, a filler, a preservative, an antioxidant and a flavoring agent. The lip glaze is compounded by adopting a specific silicone elastomer softener, a film forming agent, a filler, a thickener, an emollient, an emulsifier and the like, and when the prepared lip glaze is applied to lips, the lip glaze can be filled in the lips to soften the lips, has the characteristics of moistening and dryness and not being absorbed by skin, has good affinity with the skin, can form a layer of soft film on the surface of the skin, prevents water loss and migration of the raw materials, and further improves the durability of the lip glaze on the lips.

Description

Soft and fog-like matte lip glaze and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to the field of IPC A61K8, and more particularly relates to a soft fog-like matte lip glaze and a preparation method thereof.

Background

As technology advances and develops, various products are available on the market, and lip glaze is the combination of lipstick and lip cream, and is also called liquid lipstick. However, the matte lip glaze on the market is easy to dry and agglomerate, and the moist lip glaze is sticky and not durable, and has poor use feeling.

In the prior art, the patent document with the application number of CN201811616795.3 discloses a matte lip glaze and a preparation process thereof, and the lip glaze with good film forming property, light and thin coating and no cup sticking is prepared by adding raw materials such as modified mica powder, a mixture of undecane and tridecane, a skin feel regulator and the like, but the improvement on the moistening degree is not obvious.

Patent document with application number of CN201910192724.3 discloses a formula of a high-efficiency moist matte lip glaze and a preparation method thereof, and the prepared matte lip glaze has good moist property and can prevent lips from cracking, but the addition of vegetable oil can cause heavy lip glaze in use and increase lip burden.

Therefore, there is a need to provide a soft and hazy matte lip glaze which is soft and light in upper lip and has the effect of not pulling dry and lasting a matte surface.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the problems, the first aspect of the invention provides a soft fog matte lip glaze, which comprises a phase A, a phase B, a phase C and a phase D.

The phase A comprises 1-5 parts of thickener, 5-25 parts of emollient, 0.2-4 parts of emulsifier and 0.2-4 parts of film forming agent by weight; the phase B comprises 50-80 parts of a silicon elastomer softener; the phase C comprises 1-10 parts of colorant and 1-8 parts of filler; the phase D comprises 0.3-1 part of preservative, 0.02-1 part of antioxidant and 0-1 part of flavoring agent.

Further, the soft and fog-like matte lip glaze comprises, by weight, 1-4 parts of a thickener, 5-18 parts of an emollient, 1-6 parts of an emulsifier and 0.2-2 parts of a film forming agent; phase B comprises 60-80 parts of silicon elastomer softener; the phase C comprises 2-8 parts of colorant and 1-5 parts of filler; the phase D comprises 0.3-0.6 part of preservative, 0.05-1 part of antioxidant and 0-0.8 part of flavoring agent.

Further, the thickener is selected from any one or a combination of at least two of tribasic behenate, glyceryl behenate/eicosanoid, and synthetic wax; still further, it is tribenzine and/or glyceryl behenate/eicosanedioate.

Further, the weight ratio of the tribasic behenine to the glyceryl behenate/eicosanedioate is (0.5-2): 1.

the Sanbehenine is purchased from SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (RB) manufactured by Heda chemical (Shanghai) Inc.

In some preferred embodiments, the glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate is purchased from NOMCORT HK-G, manufactured by Armillariella Foundation International trade company, shanghai.

Further, the emollient is selected from any one or a combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, isododecane, cyclopentadimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene and phenyl trimethicone; still further, it is any one or a combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane, diisostearyl malate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.

Further, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane and diisostearyl malate.

Further, the weight ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane to the diisostearyl malate is (3-12): 1.

in some preferred embodiments, the polydimethylsiloxane is purchased from MIRASIL DM A100A 2, manufactured by Jiangxi blue Starfire Silicone Co.

Further, the viscosity of the diisostearyl malate at 30 ℃ is 1000-3000 mPa.s, and the acid value is less than or equal to 20mg KOH/g; further preferably, the viscosity of the diisostearyl malate at 30 ℃ is 1600-2200 mPa.s, and the acid value is less than or equal to 10mg KOH/g.

In some preferred embodiments, the diisostearyl malate is purchased from COSMOL 222, manufactured by The Nisshin OilliO Group, ltd.

Further, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane, diisostearyl malate, and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate.

Further, the weight ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane, the diisostearyl malate and the polyglycerol-2 triisostearate is (3-8): (0.5-3): 1.

in some preferred embodiments, the polyglycerol-2 triisostearate is purchased from COSMOL 43V, manufactured by The Nisshin OilliO Group, ltd.

Further, the emulsifier is selected from one or a combination of at least two of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan olive oleate; still further, sorbitan isostearate and cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane.

Further, the weight ratio of sorbitan isostearate to cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is 1: (0.1-2).

Further, the HLB value of the sorbitan isostearate is 2-8; further preferably, it is 4.7.

In some preferred embodiments, the sorbitan isostearate is purchased from SPANTM120-LQ- (MV) manufactured by Croda Europe Limited.

Further, the viscosity of the cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is 500-3000 mPa.s at 20 ℃, and the content of non-volatile components at 140 ℃ is more than or equal to 85wt%; further preferably, the viscosity of the cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane at 20 ℃ is 800-2300 mPa.s, and the content of non-volatile components at 140 ℃ is more than or equal to 90wt%.

In some preferred embodiments, the cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is purchased from ABIL EM 90 manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH.

Further, the film forming agent is selected from one or a combination of at least two of VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane and trimethylsiloxysilicate; further preferred is VP/hexadecene copolymer.

In some preferred embodiments, the VP/hexadecene copolymer is purchased from antaronTMv-216polymer manufactured by Engineers, inc. of Engineers, china.

Further, the silicone elastomer softener is selected from one or a combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, cyclopentadimethicone-polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer; further preferred is a polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer.

Further, the dynamic viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer at 25 ℃ is 30000-50000mm ² S, the relative density (water=1) is 0.85-0.95; further preferably, the polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer has a dynamic viscosity of 40000mm at 25 ℃and ² S, the relative density (water=1) was 0.91.

In some preferred embodiments, the dimethicone-dimethicone crosslinked polymer is purchased from Dow manufactured by Dow Corning Silicone trade (Shanghai) Inc

9041Silicone Elastomer Blend。

The inventors have unexpectedly found that the selection of a specific polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer as a silicone elastomer softener can re-soften the lips and simultaneously moisten and dry. This is probably due to the fact that the specific polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer is formed by linear siloxane network cross-linking, and in the system, dispersibility is good, the unique molecular structure enables the lips to be filled with lines, and a layer of film can be formed on the lips, so that the lips can be smooth, meanwhile, the effects of good skin feel, wrinkle removal and oil control are achieved, the lips are moist and dry and cannot be absorbed by skin, and the prepared lip glaze is high in durability and long in durability.

Further, the colorant comprises one or a combination of at least two of inorganic toner, organic toner, lake and pearlescent raw materials; further preferred are inorganic toners and organic toners.

Further, the weight ratio of the inorganic toner to the organic toner is 1: (0.5-2).

Further, the inorganic toner comprises one or a combination of at least two of ferric oxide coloring agents, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talcum powder and mica; further preferred is an iron oxide-based colorant.

Further, the iron oxide colorant comprises one or a combination of at least two of iron oxide black, iron oxide yellow and iron oxide red; further preferably, it is iron oxide black.

In some preferred embodiments, the iron oxide black is purchased from Shanghai first pigment company, inc. as iron oxide black YPC335198.

Further, the organic toner comprises one or a combination of at least two of Bao-red 6B, pigment Red 13, pigment yellow 6, pigment blue 61, lixol scarlet, pigment Violet 3, pigment Green 36, and phthalocyanine blue pigment; further preferred is baohong 6B (CI 15850).

In some preferred embodiments, the CI 15850 is purchased from D & C RED 7CA LAKE-70% (4. FD. 0075d0) manufactured by Spectra Colors Corporation.

In some preferred schemes, the inorganic toner and the organic toner are used as the colorant together, and particularly when the iron oxide colorant is selected as the inorganic toner, on one hand, the powder feel of the product can be reduced, the smoothness of the product can be improved, and on the other hand, the compatibility of a system in a formula can be increased.

Further, the filler includes, but is not limited to, one or a combination of at least two of kaolin, silica, polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, nylon-12, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, aluminum starch octenyl succinate; further preferred are silica and/or nylon-12.

Further, the silica has a particle size of 5-20 μm and an oil absorption value of 1.0-3.0ml/g; further preferably, the silica has a particle size of 10-15 μm and an oil absorption value of 1.4-2.1ml/g.

In some preferred embodiments, the silica is purchased from SUNSIL-150H, manufactured by Tianjin first-ray cosmetics Inc.

In some preferred embodiments, the nylon-12 is purchased from ASP co., ltd.

Further, the filler is silica and nylon-12.

Further, the weight ratio of the silica to the nylon-12 is (2-4): 1.

the inventor creatively discovers that the application of specific silica or nylon-12 to the system can improve the use feeling and touch of lip gloss. This is probably because, on the one hand, the specific silica has good dispersibility in the system and higher oil absorption, so that the use smoothness is improved and the greasiness is reduced, but the use amount of the silica is not too much, and the excessive silica is applied to the lip glaze, and the lip glaze is soft to touch when the lip glaze is just started to be used, but the excellent oil absorption effect of the silica can absorb moisture-keeping components in the lips along with the extension of time, and can have the effect of being pulled down to dryness; on the other hand, the nylon-12 has good compatibility with organic phase in the system, and can improve the touch feeling during use and simultaneously has higher degree of fit on lips. However, the inventor found in experiments that the application of the two components in the system does not further improve the sensory effect, which is probably due to poor compatibility of the two components, and the synergistic effect cannot be achieved when the two components are applied in the system.

Further, the weight ratio of the filler to the silicone elastomer softener is 1: (15-70).

Further, the weight ratio of the film forming agent, the coloring agent and the filler is 1: (7-15): (1-10).

The inventors have unexpectedly found that when the weight ratio of filler to silicone elastomer softener in the system is 1: (15-70), the skin feel can be improved, and meanwhile, the skin can be moistened and not greasy. This is probably due to the fact that the specific filler is able to work synergistically with the silicone elastomer softener, and while filling the lip texture, it is also able to absorb grease from the lip glaze while providing a smooth, matte skin feel, so that the lip glaze is not greasy and moist when applied to the upper lip.

Furthermore, the inventors have unexpectedly found that when the weight ratio of film former, colorant and filler in the system is 1: (7-15): in the process (1-10), the three raw materials cooperate to form a soft film on the surface of the skin, so that the film has good affinity with the skin and prevents the moisture of the lip skin from evaporating, and the specific film forming agent can prevent the migration of the colorant and the filler, so that the residence time of the product on the surface of the lip is prolonged and the durability of the product is improved.

Further, the preservative includes, but is not limited to, one or a combination of at least two of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, octyl glycol, glycerol octanoate; still further, phenoxyethanol is provided.

Further, the antioxidant comprises one or a combination of two of tocopheryl acetate and tocopherol (vitamin E); further preferred is tocopheryl acetate.

Further, the flavoring agent is not particularly limited, and may be selected from food essence or daily-use essence and essential oil available for lips.

In some preferred embodiments, the flavoring is purchased from FLAVOR manufactured by GUANGZHOU COSMO FRAGRANCES & FLAVORS LTD.

The second aspect of the invention provides a preparation method of the soft fog matte lip glaze, which comprises the following steps:

s1, weighing the components of the phase A according to parts by weight, heating to 50-55 ℃, mixing and stirring for 5-10 min until the components are completely uniform;

s2, weighing the components of the phase B according to parts by weight, adding the components into the phase A, and mixing and stirring at 50-55 ℃ for 5-10 min until the components are completely uniform to obtain a mixture I;

s3, weighing the components of the phase C according to parts by weight, adding the components into the mixture I, heating to 50-55 ℃, mixing and stirring for 5-10 min uniformly, and obtaining a mixture II;

s4, preserving heat at 50-55 ℃, slowly adding the phase D into the mixture II at a constant speed, and homogenizing at a speed of about 3000-6000 rpm for 15-20 min;

s5, cooling to 25-30 ℃, discharging and filling to obtain the product.

The beneficial effects are that:

1. by selecting specific polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer as the silicone elastomer softener, the lip marks can be softened and simultaneously moist and dry.

2. The special silica or chinlon-12 is selected as the filler to be applied to the system, so that the use feeling and touch feeling of the lip glaze can be improved.

3. The weight ratio of the components is 1: the filler and silicone elastomer softener of (15-70) can improve skin feel and moisten the skin while keeping the skin from becoming greasy.

4. The weight ratio of the components is 1: (7-15): the film forming agent, colorant and filler of (1-10) can increase the durability of lip gloss while maintaining skin moisture.

5. The lip glaze is compounded by adopting a specific silicone elastomer softener, a film forming agent, a filler, a thickener, an emollient, an emulsifier and the like, and when the prepared lip glaze is applied to lips, the lip glaze can be filled in the lips to soften the lips, has the characteristics of moistening and dryness and not being absorbed by skin, has good affinity with the skin, can form a layer of soft film on the surface of the skin, prevents water loss and migration of the raw materials, and further improves the durability of the lip glaze on the lips.

Drawings

Figures 1-6 are photographs of lips of 6 volunteers at four times before application (original blank), immediately after application (0 h), after application for 4h, and after application for 8h, respectively, of the soft fog matte lip glaze prepared in example 1.

Detailed Description

Examples

Specific examples of soft-fog matte lip glazes are shown in table 1, and the components in table 1 are all calculated in parts by weight. The raw material buyers in examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 are all preferred manufacturers mentioned in the specification. The same preparation process is adopted in examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4, and the preparation method of the soft fog matte lip glaze comprises the following steps:

s1, weighing the components of the phase A according to parts by weight, heating to 50 ℃, mixing and stirring for 8min until the components are completely uniform;

s2, weighing each component of the phase B according to parts by weight, adding the components into the phase A, and mixing and stirring at the temperature of 50 ℃ for 8min until the components are completely uniform to obtain a mixture I;

s3, weighing the components of the phase C according to parts by weight, adding the components into the mixture I, heating to 50 ℃, mixing and stirring for 8min uniformly, and obtaining a mixture II;

s4, preserving heat at 50 ℃, slowly adding the phase D into the mixture II at a constant speed, and homogenizing for 18min at a speed of 5000 rpm;

s5, cooling to 25 ℃, discharging and filling to obtain the product.

TABLE 1 raw material components of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4

Performance test method

1. Spread sensory test

Lip skin healthy volunteers were selected, and use tests were conducted for 5 persons for each sample for the lip glazes prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4. Each person smears each sample on the lips, tests each day, compares the smoothness and the lip line softening effect of each sample, scores the moistening degree, the skin attaching degree and the makeup holding property at three moments of smearing for 0h, 4h and 8h, continuously smears for one week, and calculates the average value at three moments of 0h, 4h and 8h after one week. The sensory scoring criteria for smoothness, softness, lip liner, moisturization, skin texture and cosmetic retention were all 1-10 points, with higher scores representing better evaluation. The experimental results are shown in table 2.

TABLE 2 results of the smear sensory test

As can be seen from Table 2, the sensory evaluation results of the lip glazes prepared in examples 1 to 5 are all higher than those of the comparative examples, wherein the raw materials in examples 1 to 5 are in the range of each component and the ratio between each substance is proper, and the ratio of the film former, the coloring agent and the filler in comparative examples 1 and 4 is far more than 1: (7-15): (1-10), the ratio of filler to silicone elastomer softener in comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 was 1: (15-70). Furthermore, it was also confirmed from the results of examples 1 to 5 that the effect of the mixed use of the two fillers was not as good as that of silica and nylon-12 alone in the present system.

The results of the sensory evaluation of the lip glazes prepared in examples 1-5 are all higher than those of comparative examples 1-4, indicating that the mass ratio among the silicone elastomer, the film former, the filler and the colorant in the formulation of the present invention directly affects the properties of the lip glazes.

2. Durability test

For the lip glaze prepared in example 1, each of 6 healthy volunteers with lips was applied to lips, and each of the samples was tried once daily, and the values of a skin color (red/green value) a at four moments before application (original blank), immediately after application (0 h), after application for 4h, and after application for 8h were calculated and the average value was recorded, and the results were shown in table 3, and the pictures after each volunteer was tried were shown in fig. 1 to 6.

Table 3 skin color (red/green value) a values

	Original blank	0h	4h	8h
					Mean value of	42.66	46.42	45.97	45.47

As can be calculated from the data in the table, for the sample application region a, the change rate is 8.81% (change rate= (a of 0 h-a of original blank)/a of original blank) compared with the original blank, the change rate is 6.59% (change rate= (a of 8 h-a of original blank)/a of original blank) compared with the original blank, and the change rate of the sample region 8h compared with the original blank is forward development, which indicates that the lip glaze prepared in example 1 has a certain makeup holding capability.

Claims (10)

1. The soft and fog-like matte lip glaze is characterized by comprising a phase A, a phase B, a phase C and a phase D;

the phase A comprises 1-5 parts of thickener, 5-25 parts of emollient, 0.2-4 parts of emulsifier and 0.2-4 parts of film forming agent by weight; the phase B comprises 50-80 parts of a silicon elastomer softener; the phase C comprises 1-10 parts of colorant and 1-8 parts of filler; the phase D comprises 0.3-1 part of preservative, 0.02-1 part of antioxidant and 0-1 part of flavoring agent.

2. The soft, hazy, matte lip glaze of claim 1 wherein phase a comprises, in parts by weight, 1-4 parts thickener, 5-18 parts emollient, 1-6 parts emulsifier, 0.2-2 parts film former; phase B comprises 60-80 parts of silicon elastomer softener; the phase C comprises 2-8 parts of colorant and 1-5 parts of filler; the phase D comprises 0.3-0.6 part of preservative, 0.05-1 part of antioxidant and 0-0.8 part of flavoring agent.

3. A soft, hazy, matte lip glaze according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickener is selected from any one or a combination of at least two of tribasic behenate, glyceryl behenate/eicosanedioate, synthetic wax.

4. A soft, hazy, matte lip glaze according to claim 3 wherein the emollient is selected from any one or a combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, isododecane, cyclopentadimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, phenyl trimethicone.

5. The soft, hazy, matte lip glaze of claim 4 wherein the emulsifier is selected from one or a combination of at least two of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan olivate.

6. A soft, hazy, matte lip glaze according to claim 3 wherein the film former is selected from one or a combination of at least two of VP/hexadecene copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate.

7. A soft, hazy, matte lip glaze according to claim 3 wherein the silicone elastomer softener is selected from one or a combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, cyclopentadimethicone-polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, dimethicone PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer.

8. The soft, hazy, matte lip glaze of claim 7 wherein the polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer has a dynamic viscosity of 30000 mm to 50000mm at 25 °c ² S, the relative density (water=1) is 0.85-0.95.

9. The soft, hazy, matte lip glaze of claim 8 wherein the filler and silicone elastomer softener are present in a weight ratio of 1: (15-70).

10. A method of making a soft, hazy, matte lip glaze according to any one of claims 1-9, comprising the steps of:

s1, weighing the components of the phase A according to parts by weight, heating to 50-55 ℃, mixing and stirring for 5-10 min until the components are completely uniform;

s2, weighing the components of the phase B according to parts by weight, adding the components into the phase A, and mixing and stirring at 50-55 ℃ for 5-10 min until the components are completely uniform to obtain a mixture I;

s3, weighing the components of the phase C according to parts by weight, adding the components into the mixture I, heating to 50-55 ℃, mixing and stirring for 5-10 min uniformly, and obtaining a mixture II;

s4, preserving heat at 50-55 ℃, slowly adding the phase D into the mixture II at a constant speed, and homogenizing at a speed of about 3000-6000 rpm for 15-20 min;

s5, cooling to 25-30 ℃, discharging and filling to obtain the product.

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