KR20120003171A - Cosmetic composition containing broussonetia extract for moisturizing the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition containing Broussonetia kazinoki Sieb extract is provided to recover damaged skin barrier and to enhance skin moisturizing. CONSTITUTION: A cosmetic composition for skin moisturizing contains 0.001-50 wt% of Broussonetia kazinoki Sieb extract as an active ingredient. The composition is used for strengthening skin barrier function. A method for preparing the extract comprises: a step of drying and slicing Broussonetia kazinoki Sieb; and a step of isolating Broussonetia kazinoki Sieb by solvent extraction using solar solvent, non-polar solvent, or mixture thereof or by percolation or maceration to prepare leached material.

Description

Moisturizing cosmetic composition containing extracts of the mulberry tree {Cosmetic composition containing Broussonetia extract for moisturizing the skin}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for moisturizing, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition having an excellent effect of restoring damaged skin barrier function and increasing skin moisturizing power by containing a mulberry extract as an active ingredient.

Skin plays a very important role as a barrier to protect individuals from the outside. The barrier function is to protect against various stimuli (chemicals, air pollutants, dry environment, ultraviolet rays, etc.) from the outside and to prevent excessive release of moisture through the skin, and this protection function is a stratum corneum composed of keratinocytes. The function can be maintained only when is normally formed.

The outermost stratum corneum (horney layer) is formed from keratinocytes and consists of the differentiated keratinocytes and the surrounding lipid layer (Marcelo CL et al, J. Invest . Dermatol . 80 , pp 37-44, 1983).

Keratinocytes are characteristic cells whose basal cells, which continuously proliferate in the epidermal layer, undergo morphological and functional changes in stages and rise to the surface of the skin. Exfoliated and new keratinocytes take over their function. This repetitive sequence of changes is called "epidermal differentiation" or "keratinization."

In addition, during keratinization, keratinocytes form a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and intercellular fats (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids), forming a stratum corneum, which makes the stratum corneum firm and flexible, thus creating a skin barrier. function as a barrier.

The stratum corneum can easily lose its function due to excessive face washing, lifestyle factors such as bathing, environmental factors such as dry air pollutants, and endogenous diseases such as atopic or aged skin. Recently, due to a variety of factors, more and more skin complaints and dry skin complaints are increasing in recent years.

Therefore, various studies have been conducted to supply moisture from the outside to prevent proper skin moisture or to prevent moisture loss from the body, and various moisturizers having water retention capabilities have been developed. As a skin moisturizer, it is common to use lipid components such as ceramide and substances that can increase water retention in the stratum corneum such as essential fatty acids and lipid complexes (Rawlings AV et al, J. Invest . Dermatol . , 5, pp731- 741, 1994).

However, in recent years, the risk factors for the skin are gradually increasing, and the changes in dietary patterns slow down the formation and dropping rate of the stratum corneum, and the amount of moisturizing factors and lipids in the stratum corneum decreases due to the deterioration of the function of keratinocytes. There is a growing number of people with skin that do not function as a skin barrier. This disruption of skin barrier function causes various skin diseases such as dry skin, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, and psoriasis. These diseases can be expected to alleviate symptoms only with a conventional moisturizer having a water retention function, but fundamental healing is difficult.

Accordingly, the present inventors have completed the present invention by confirming the effect of restoring the damaged skin barrier function and increasing the amount of skin moisturizing the mulberry extract while researching to find a material exhibiting excellent skin moisturizing effect among natural extracts.

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition excellent in the skin moisturizing effect and damaged skin barrier improvement by containing a mulberry extract as an active ingredient.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a moisturizing cosmetic composition containing a mulberry extract as an active ingredient.

The mulberry extract of the present invention has the effect of increasing the repair and repair of damaged skin barrier function. Therefore, the cosmetic composition containing the extract of the mulberry is useful for preventing or improving skin dryness, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis or psoriasis as a composition for skin moisturizing, skin barrier function and induction of keratinocyte differentiation. Can be.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a mulberry extract as an active ingredient.

The mulberry used in the present invention includes the mulberry (Broussonetia kazinoki Sieb), the beech (Broussonetia papyrifera Vent), the cedar (Broussonetia kazinoki var. Humilis), etc., a deciduous broad-leaved shrub most of Korea (mainly distributed in the south It is distributed in China, Taiwan, Japan, etc., and it spreads geographically on both sides of the foothills and field banks. Its bast fiber has been used as a raw material for papermaking, and it has various medicinal effects, which is effective in tonic, nominal effect, tone, species, ripening, diuresis, removes wind, and clears blood. It is known to be effective in reducing vision.

The extract of the mulberry used in the present invention is not only a leaching liquid obtained by leaching and transferring it from the mulberry, but also a concentrate obtained by partially or completely condensing the leaching liquid, or a stagnation, whole, regular, flow extract and dried mulberry prepared by drying the above concentrate again. It contains all the chemicals in the plant, as well as the main effect of the plant itself. In the present invention, extracts from all parts of the mulberry, such as stems, roots, leaves, flowers, fruits, etc. can be used, and are not limited to the extract of any particular part.

It is possible to use a well-known method as a manufacturing method of the mulberry extract used in the present invention. For example, the dried mulberry is dried by any method such as natural drying or forced drying and finely chopped, and then polar solvent such as water, ethanol, butanol, acetone, etc .; Nonpolar solvents such as ether, hexane, benzene, chloroform and ethyl acetate; Mixed solvents of the nonpolar and polar solvents; Using a solvent such as alkaline water, or vegetable oil such as soybean oil or sesame oil, it is extracted by any method such as cold sedimentation, percolation, and warm needle to obtain a leachate containing the active ingredient. The leaching treatment is about 12 to 96 hours for cold acupuncture and percolation, and depending on the type and temperature of the solvent used for warming, but preferably about 0.5 to 24 hours at a temperature close to the reflux temperature of the solvent. It is good. In particular, it is preferable to use a tincture, a liquid extract or an extract that has leached into the hydrous alcohol.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain 0.001 to 50% by weight of the mulberry extract based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the extract of the mulberry is less than 0.001% by weight, the skin moisturizing effect and skin barrier function strengthening effect by the extract can not be largely obtained, if it exceeds 50% by weight is because of skin safety or formulation problems.

The moisturizing cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for enhancing skin barrier function and inducing differentiation of keratinocytes of the skin, thus preventing or improving skin dryness, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis or psoriasis, etc., which are caused by incomplete epidermal differentiation. It can be usefully used as a topical skin composition.

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be formulated containing a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium or base. These are all formulations suitable for topical application, for example emulsions, suspensions, microemulsions, microcapsules, microgranules or ionic (liposomes) and non-obtained by dispersing an oil phase in solution, gels, solids, pasty anhydrous products, aqueous phases. It may be provided in the form of an ionic vesicle dispersant or in the form of a cream, skin, lotion, powder, ointment, spray or concealed stick. It may also be used in the form of a foam or in the form of an aerosol composition further containing a compressed propellant. These compositions may be prepared according to conventional methods in the art.

In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a fatty substance, an organic solvent, a dissolving agent, a thickening agent, a gelling agent, a softener, an antioxidant, a suspending agent, a stabilizer, a foaming agent, a fragrance, a surfactant, water, an ionic type or a non- With ionic emulsifiers, fillers, metal ion sequestrants, chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blockers, wetting agents, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, lipid vesicles or any other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics. It may contain adjuvants commonly used in the same cosmetic or dermatology field. Such adjuvants are introduced in amounts generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological arts.

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain a skin absorption promoting substance to increase the skin moisturizing effect, skin barrier function strengthening effect, and skin keratinocyte differentiation inducing effect.

Hereinafter, the configuration and effects of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to test examples and examples. However, these test examples and examples are provided only for the purpose of illustration in order to help the understanding of the present invention, but the scope and scope of the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

Example 1 Preparation of Methanol Extract

After adding 1kg of dried mulberry starch to 10L purified water and heated until boiling, and further heated for 10 minutes, and then washed with water to remove, 10L purified water was added again and washed again. The residue was air-dried and added to 20L of 70% ethanol, and then connected to a reflux apparatus and then heated to reflux for 24 hours. After removing the solids using an 80 mesh sieve, the remaining filtrate was filtered again, and then the solvent in the filtrate was distilled off using a vacuum concentrator to obtain about 50 g of green solids.

Test Example 1 Measurement of Keratinocyte Differentiation Promotion Effect

In order to examine the differentiation promoting effect of keratinocytes of the mulberry extract obtained in Example 1, the amount of CE (Cornified Envelop) generated during the differentiation of keratinocytes was measured using absorbance.

First, the keratinocytes of the primary cultured humans isolated from the epidermis of the newborn were put in a culture flask and attached to the bottom, and then the test substance of Table 1 was treated at 5 ppm in the culture medium, and then the cells were 70 ~ of the floor area. It was incubated for 5 days until it grew about 80%. At this time, the low calcium (0.03mM) treated group and the high calcium (1.2mM) treated group were used as negative and positive controls, respectively. Then, the cultured cells were harvested and washed with PBS (Phophate buffered saline), followed by 10 mM Tris-HCl buffer (Tris-HCl, containing 2% SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) and 20 mM Dithiothreitol (DTT). pH 7.4) 1 ml was added to sonication, boiling and centrifugation, and the precipitate was suspended in 1 ml of PBS again to measure absorbance at 340 nm. Separately, a portion of the solution after the sonication was taken to measure the protein content and used as a reference when evaluating the degree of cell differentiation. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

Test substance Differentiation capacity in keratinocytes (%) Low Calcium (0.03 mM) Solution
(Negative control) 100 High Calcium (1.2mM) Solution
(Positive control) 210 Example 1 140

As shown in Table 1, when Example 1 which is the extract of the mulberry, it was confirmed that the effect of promoting the differentiation of keratinocytes.

Test Example 2 Measurement of Skin Barrier Function Restoration Effect

In order to measure the effect of the mulberry extract on the recovery of damaged skin barrier function due to skin damage, the following experiment was performed. Ten adult men and women's upper and lower limbs were damaged by a tape stripping method for 7 days while applying two groups of Formulation Example 1 and Comparative Formulation Example 1, each of which was prepared with the composition shown in Table 2 below. The recovery of transdermal moisture loss (TWEL) was measured once a day using a Vapometer (Delfin, Finland). Here, Formulation Example 1 is a composition containing Example 1, and Comparative Formulation Example 1 is a negative control group (vehicle). The experimental results are shown in Table 3 below. The results in Table 3 were compared on the basis of the 100% difference before and after barrier damage.

Compounding ingredient Formulation Example 1 Comparative Formulation Example 1 Purified water 69 70 Propylene glycol 30 30 Example 1 One -

Test group TWEL change (%) Before treatment 1 day 2 days 3 days 4 days 5 days 6 days Example 1 100 87 72 53 29 12 11 Comparative example 100 121 112 98 70 62 43

As can be seen in Table 3, when treating Example 1, the extract of the mulberry, it can be seen that the transdermal moisture loss returns to normal at a rapid rate and the barrier damage is recovered.

Test Example 3 Measurement of Increased Skin Moisturizing Effect

In order to measure the effect of the extract of the mulberry on the skin moisturizing power, using the mulberry extract obtained in Example 1 according to the composition ratio of the following Table 4 Formulation Example 2 and Comparative Formulation Example 2 to the formulation of the nutrition cream Prepared. The unit of content ratio of the following compounding component is weight%.

Compounding ingredient Formulation Example 2 Comparative Formulation Example 2 Purified water To 100 To 100 Example 1 0.5 - Vegetable hydrogenated oil 1.50 1.50 Stearic acid 0.60 0.60 Glycerol stearate 1.00 1.00 Stearyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate & Behenyl Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 1.00 1.00 Arakidil Behenyl Alcohol & Arakidil Glucoside 1.00 1.00 Cetylaryl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside 2.00 2.00 PEG-100 Stearate & Glycerolate & Propylene Glycol 1.50 1.50 Caprylic / Carric Triglycerides 11.00 11.00 Cyclomedicon 6.00 6.00 Preservative, incense Quantity Quantity Triethanolamine 0.1 0.1

In order to confirm the skin moisturizing improvement effect of Formulation Example 2 and Comparative Formulation Example 2 of Table 4 was evaluated as follows. Sixty men and women in their 40s and 50s, classified as dry skin, were divided into two groups of 30 people for two groups of Formulation Example 2 and Comparative Formulation Example 2, respectively. The nutrition cream was applied to the face twice a day for 4 weeks. Skin moisture meter at constant temperature and humidity conditions (24 ° C, 40% relative humidity) before start of application, after 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks after application, and after 2 weeks (total 6 weeks) after application is stopped. Skin moisture content was measured by (Corneometer CM825, C + K Electronic Co., Germany). The results are shown in Table 5 below. The results in Table 5 show the percentage increase of the measured value after a certain period of treatment based on the skin moisture meter value measured immediately before the start of the test.

Test group Moisture Growth Rate (%) 1 week past 2 weeks past 4 weeks past After 6 weeks Formulation Example 1 33 40 42 34 Comparative Formulation Example 1 30 32 32 15

In the results of Table 5, when the Comparative Formulation Example 2 was applied, it showed a water increase rate of about 30% up to 4 weeks after the application was made, but after stopping the application, the moisture content of the skin decreased, but it contained the mulberry extract. In the case of application of Formulation Example 2, it can be seen that the skin moisture increase rate is more than 30% even after the application is stopped. Through this it can be seen that the composition of the present invention containing the mulberry extract is excellent in the skin moisturizing effect.

From the above results, it was confirmed that the extract of the mulberry is very effective in promoting the differentiation of keratinocytes, repairing damaged skin barrier and increasing skin moisturizing power.

Claims (4)

Cosmetic composition for moisturizing containing the extract of mulberry as an active ingredient. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that for enhancing the skin barrier function. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that for inducing differentiation of the keratinocytes of the skin. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the mulberry extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.