KR20060014714A - Composition for alleviation of skin wrinkles comprising herb extract - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition comprising an herbal extract, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprising the extract of peony, white paper and tanza as an active ingredient, the cell activity effect through cell proliferation, collagen synthesis enhancement at the skin cell level Excellent in alleviating wrinkles and fine lines, and does not cause skin side effects or wrinkles.

Herbal extract, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, cosmetic composition

Description

Wrinkle-relieving cosmetic composition containing herbal extracts {COMPOSITION FOR ALLEVIATION OF SKIN WRINKLES COMPRISING HERB EXTRACT}

The present invention relates to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition comprising a herbal extract, and more particularly to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition comprising peony, white paper and tanza extract excellent in anti-aging effect.

Human skin is constantly undergoing a change, the most representative of which is deterioration of skin function due to aging and reduction of visual beauty. Therefore, one of the areas of interest in cosmetics is how to delay skin aging. The final phenomena that appear in accordance with aging of the skin include wrinkle formation, skin elasticity reduction, aging spot formation, and the like, in particular, wrinkle formation is accepted as the most representative phenomenon.

In general, theories explaining skin aging include mutagenesis of somatic cells, error theory of gene replication, gene program theory, free radical theory, autoimmune response theory, accumulation of toxic substances, and theories of dermal component proteins (M. Rieger, C & T , 110, 94, 1994) There are several such theories involved in skin aging, and free radical theory is known to be a major cause of skin aging.

Free radicals are chemically highly reactive chemicals that occur when the skin is irradiated with UV light or during the respiration of cells in the skin. Most of the free radicals related to aging of the skin are Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which include superoxide radical, hydrogen peroxide (H ₂ O ₂ ) and hydroxy radical (Hydroxy radical). ), Singlet oxygen, and the like. These reactive oxygen species generate various active species such as radicals, peroxides, aldehydes, and epoxides, and are the main causes of DNA, RNA, protein, cell membrane and cell structure damage, cancer, tissue damage, and aging. It is thought (Black HS, Photochem photobiol , 46 (2), 213, 1987). However, in spite of many of these studies, it is not yet known how each change is related to the appearance of aging of skin appearance, especially wrinkles, and thus research on the mechanism of wrinkle formation is still ongoing.

Recently, a lot of physiological studies have been made on the causes of skin wrinkles. In order to prevent the formation of wrinkles in cosmetics, methods such as the maintenance of moisture in the stratum corneum by a moisturizer, the protection of the skin from ultraviolet rays or the environment, and the prevention of wrinkles by promoting new cell activity have been applied. Materials used to suppress skin aging so far include enzymes such as superoxide dismutase and catalase, α-tocopherol (vitamin E), and β-carotene (β). Fat-soluble and water-soluble antioxidants or radical scavengers, such as -Carotene, Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and Glutathione, have a prophylactic effect of inhibiting wrinkle formation mainly due to skin aging. Meanwhile, vitamin A, alpha hydroxy acid, and the like, which have recently been spotlighted as anti-aging substances, have a healing effect to alleviate wrinkles generated through enhancement of collagen synthesis in the dermis. Vitamin A and alpha hydroxy acids, in particular, have anti-wrinkle effects faster than antioxidants and additional effects such as skin cell regeneration and whitening have been reported (R. Hermitte, C & T , 107, 63, 1992).

However, these antioxidants, radical scavengers, vitamin A, alpha hydroxy acids and the like have a disadvantage in that the stability and safety, etc. when blended in cosmetics.

The present inventors, as part of the study to search for substances having excellent stability and safety at the same time when blended in cosmetics and excellent anti-wrinkle effect, for herbal extracts that are predicted to be aesthetically effective in folk medicine As a result of a detailed investigation of various efficacy and safety, it was found that herbal extracts with excellent anti-wrinkle effect, less peculiar odor and were safe for the skin led to the completion of the present invention.

Peony, white paper, and tanza, which are the subjects of study in connection with the present invention, are herbal medicines that have been widely used in Chinese medicine or folk medicine. In particular, peoniflorin (paeoniflorin) is one of the main ingredients in the roots of the peony, such as peony or peony is a colorless form of substance called peony saponin. Peonyflorin is known to have vasodilatation, anti-inflammatory, anti-hypersensitivity and immunostimulating effects, and is also used to treat protective spasms of the red cell membrane. In addition, white paper and tanza disperse heat to dissipate and release facial heat resulting from stress and various contamination, thereby treating skin problems such as acne and cremation poison, and has been used for skin care since ancient times. However, there have been no reports or studies related to the anti-wrinkle effect of these herbal medicines by promoting collagen synthesis, and thus the present invention has been completed by demonstrating the anti-wrinkle effect.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition comprising a herbal extract with excellent stability and safety and excellent anti-wrinkle effect when formulated in a cosmetic, and less herbal odor.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition comprising the extract of peony, white paper and tanza as an active ingredient.

Here, the extract of peony, white paper and tanza is preferably included in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight based on the whole composition.

In addition, the extract is mixed with peony, white paper and tanza at a weight ratio of 0.5 to 3.0: 0.2 to 0.6: 0.05 to 0.5, and 5 to 40% by weight in distilled water, ethanol, ethyl ether, or a mixed solvent thereof by cooling or warming. After extraction can be prepared by filtration.

And the composition of the present invention may be formulated into a cosmetic composition comprising a lotion, essence, lotion, cream or gel.

The present invention provides an anti-wrinkle composition comprising a mixed extract of three herbal medicines of peony, white paper and tanza. As used herein, the anti-wrinkle composition refers to a composition having cell proliferation and collagen synthesis effects. The herbal extract of the present invention shows little wrinkles by promoting collagen activity as well as little irritation to the skin.

Looking at the raw medicine of the herbal extract as an active ingredient of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, first, the peony (Paeony root, herbal name: Paeoniae Radix) is a peony ( Paeonia albiflora (lactiflora) PALL. Var. Tricocarpa BUNGE) The roots of the same plant are dried as it is or the bark is removed. Roots contain glycosides pheonolide, peononiflorin and alkaloids peonine, tannins, resins, sugars, starch, salicylic acid, methylsalicylate, essential oils, benzoic acid and asparagine. Along with peonyflorin are small amounts of albiflorin, oxyfeoniflorin, and benzoxylfeoniflorin. It works to soften the liver and relieve pain, and the lack of blood causes yellowing of the complexion, symptoms of abdominal pain in menstruation, cold and sweating, cramps in the hands and feet, and headaches. It is also very good for asthma, kidney stones and hemorrhoids. Earl is often used as a female tonic to regenerate diseases of the kidney system, menstrual irregularities and skin. In particular, peonyflorin, a peony-derived cell aging inhibitor, has an effect of significantly reducing the expression of β-galactosidase, which is an indicator of cell aging, to increase the rate of activated state in the cell cycle. In addition, it exhibits an effect of preventing cell damage by ultraviolet rays to prevent destruction of DNA in the skin cells generated by ultraviolet irradiation.

On the other hand, Angelica dahurica root (Angelica Dahuricae Radix) is a herbal medicine made by drying the roots of two-year-old or two-year-old grass of the cotyledon cultivars of Acupuncture plant. It sends energy to the facial skin to promote blood circulation to make the complexion oily and radiant. ”It is also recorded as“ removing blemishes, freckles and scars on the face ”. In traditional medicine, Bangjapyeonpyeon, it is recorded that white paper is a medicine that has warm properties and removes facial poisons and enhances human metabolism.

In addition, Poncirus trifoliata is a deciduous shrub to Unhyang , native to China, and grown in south of Gyeonggi-do. The tanza acts on the spleen and stomach, and the fruit of the tanza is called fruit and the mature fruit is called perception. In particular, it is through the stagnant Gi and bile, food, etc., and acts as a medium digestive system to function smoothly. In other words, the stagnation of the chest and abdomen, swelling and swelling, chest tightness and pressing pain, swelling, indigestion, constipation, such as to control the gastrointestinal sewage, uterine sewage, it has been found to be effective. In addition, as a result of pharmacological experiments, there are reports that there are uterine contraction action, gastrointestinal hyperactivity action, cardiovascular action, diuretic action, and the like, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-allergic, anti-hypersensitivity and the like.

Hereinafter, the manufacturing method of the cosmetic composition of this invention is demonstrated concretely.

Wrinkle relief cosmetic composition of the present invention is an extract of Peony, white paper and tanza as an active ingredient. These herbal extracts preferably contain peony, white paper and tanza in a weight ratio of 0.5 to 3.0: 0.2 to 0.6: 0.05 to 0.5. As shown in the medicinal formulation slurs, such a compounding ratio is classified into seven kinds of interaction mechanisms when two or more medicinal herbs are combined as one of the formulation principles of Chiljung, or Medicinal Herbs, and the ups and downs, ie, the drugs in Oriental Medicine. The theory and morale of seeing and explaining the treatment action of 4 largely, that is, the nature and effect of the medicine is divided into four kinds of (寒), heat (온), warm (溫), quantity (량) Based on a theory explaining the mechanism.

The herbal medicines are mixed in the same ratio as above, extracted with distilled water, ethanol, ethyl ether, or a mixed solvent of 5 to 40% by weight with cold or warm water, followed by filtration and separation to prepare a crude drug extract as a raw material of the present invention. do.

The composition of the present invention is prepared by including the herbal extract thus prepared in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt% based on the total composition. If the herbal extract content is less than 0.01% by weight, it is difficult to expect a substantial effect. If the herbal extract content is more than 10% by weight, it is not preferable because it is difficult to mask the specific odor of the herbal medicine and adversely affects the skin.

Cosmetic composition of the present invention containing the above herbal extracts may be formulated in preparations such as lotion, essence, lotion, cream or gel.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through examples. However, these experimental examples, examples, comparative examples and production examples are only examples of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example 1 Preparation of Herbal Extracts

Peony, white paper and tanza were each mixed in a weight ratio of 0.5 to 3.0: 0.2 to 0.6: 0.05 to 0.5, and then extracted and concentrated three times each time with 75% alcohol-water of five times the crude drug each time. The residual alcohol of the concentrate was blown off, and a quantity of water was added thereto, followed by heating to dissolve to form a suspension. The suspension was partitioned three times with 1x ethyl ether, stopped, partitioned, and an aqueous solution of the lower layer was taken to form a concentrate. The fraction was concentrated in a 200-300 mesh silica gel column and separated using chloroform: acetone (4: 1) as a fluidized bed, concentrated and dried to obtain a final herbal extract (yield: 0.2-0.3%).

Experimental Example 1: Cytotoxicity Test

In order to verify the primary safety as a raw material used in cosmetics, MTT test was performed by culturing V79-4 cells (Chinese hamster, continuous cell line of lung tissue fibroblasts) on the herbal extract prepared in the above example [Ref. Mossman T. (1983) Rapid colorimetric assay for cellular growth & survival: application to proliferation & cytotoxicity assays. Journal of Immunological Methods 65, 55 ~ 63]. The cytotoxicity test results are shown in Table 1.

sample ^a IC ₅₀ (%, w / v) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) 0.005 Squalane 0.05 Herbal extract 1.0

Note) ^a IC _50: inhibitory concentration (Inhibitory Concentration) 50, the concentration that kills 50% of cells

As shown in Table 1 above, the IC ₅₀ value of the herbal extract was 1.0, which showed 200 times lower cytotoxicity than sodium lauryl sulfate, and 20 times higher cytotoxicity compared to squalane, which is an excellent safety ingredient. It appears low, indicating that the safety is very good.

Experimental Example 2: Allergy Evaluation (LLNA)

In order to determine whether the herbal extracts according to the present invention are allergenic, an experimental method using acetone: olive oil (4: 1) as a carrier medium was selected. [Kimber I (1990): Identification of contact allergens using the murine local lymph node assay, J. Appl. Toxicol. 10 (3), 173 to 180]. 20%, 40%, and 60% solutions of the herbal extracts were prepared and applied to both ears of the mouse (Balb / c) for 50 days for 3 days to isolate the lymph node (Auricular lymph node) from the rat. Lymph nodes were pulverized into a single cell state and then cultured for 24 hours with the addition of radioisotope (3H-thymidine), and the amplification degree [cpm] of the cells was measured. The results are shown in Table 2.

sample Lymph node cells (10 ⁷ cells / ml) cpm (average) Amplification Acetone: Olive Oil (4: 1) 1.70 2870 Transportation Herbal Extract 20% 1.71 2296 0.8 Herbal Extract 40% 2.04 3157 1.1 Herbal Medicine Extract 60% 3.23 4592 1.6

As shown in Table 2, the herbal extract according to the present invention has an amplification degree (S.I) of 2 or less, showing that there is little possibility of allergy.

Experimental Example 3: Cell Proliferation Effect

Experiments were carried out to measure the cell proliferation effect of the herbal extracts according to the present invention. First, human fibroblast cells were inoculated into 96 well plates (Corning, Inc.), and then cultured. Then, herbal extracts were inoculated at 10%, 5%, 1%, 0.5%, 0.01% and 0.005% concentrations. 2 days, and MTT test method was performed to evaluate the cell proliferation. Serum-free medium was used as a control and serum 1% was added as a comparative group. The results are shown in Table 3.

Type of sample Cell growth rate after 2 days (%) Control group (serum-free medium) 100 Comparative group (serum 1%) 161 Herbal Medicine Extract 10% 140 Herbal Medicine Extract 5% 130 Herbal Extract 1% 120 Herbal Medicine Extract 0.5% 110 Herbal extract 0.01% 105 Herbal Medicine Extract 0.005% 102

As shown in the results of Table 3, it can be seen that the herbal extract according to the present invention has a cell activity effect through cell proliferation.

Experimental Example 4: Collagen Synthesis Enhancement Effect

As shown in the results of the above experimental example, the herbal extract of the present invention having excellent cell proliferation was measured as follows.

First, 24-well plates (24-well plate, Corning Inc.) was cultured for 24 hours and then, L-2,3- ³ H-proline (proline), the fibroblast cells (human fibroblast cell) of a person was allowed to react at 24 hours. At this time, herbal extracts were added to the positive control group by concentration, and nothing was treated to the negative control group. After the reaction of L-2,3- ³ H proline, the amount of neonatal collagen synthesized by fibroblasts in the cell medium was measured and compared using collagen degrading enzyme and radioisotope activity analyzer. Serum-free medium was used as a control and serum 1% was added as a comparative group. The results are shown in Table 4.

Type of sample Collagen Synthesis Enhancement Effect (%) Control group (serum-free medium) 100 Comparative group (serum 1%) 260 Herbal Medicine Extract 10% 200 Herbal Medicine Extract 5% 190 Herbal Extract 1% 169 Herbal Medicine Extract 0.5% 120 Herbal extract 0.01% 109 Herbal Medicine Extract 0.005% 102

As shown in the results of Table 4, the herbal extract according to the present invention can be seen that the synergistic effect of collagen at the cellular level is excellent. However, at a concentration higher than 5%, the collagen synthesis enhancing effect was weak, and at a concentration lower than 0.01%, the effect was difficult to recognize.

With the herbal extract of the present invention excellent in cell proliferation effect and collagen synthesis enhancing effect as described above was prepared a preparation as in the following examples.

Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Example 1

According to the composition of Table 5, Examples 2 to 4 are formulated with a herbal extract in a general manner and Comparative Example 1 is a comparative sample containing no herbal extract, to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion according to the following method: First, the water phase and oil phase After dissolving by heating to 70 to 75 ℃ each, the oil phase was added to the water phase, emulsified for 10 minutes under a homomixer 6000 rpm conditions and cooled to 30 ℃ to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion.

Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Awards Purified water Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Remaining amount Triethanolamine 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Carboxy vinyl polymer (1 wt% solution) 15 15 15 15 Dark glycerin 6 6 6 6 Propylene glycol 4 4 4 4 Paraoxybenzoic Acid Ester 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Herbal extract 0.01 1.0 5.0 - Paid Cetostearyl alcohol One One One One Glyceryl Monostearate One One One One Sorbitan monosulfate One One One One POE (20) sorbitan monostearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isocetil Myristate 5 5 5 5 Isocetyloctanoate 5 5 5 5 Squalane 5 5 5 5 Spices Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity

The unit of the numerical value used in Table 5 is weight%. As the carboxyvinyl polymer, Carbopol 941, a product of B.F.Goodrich, USA, was used as a 1% by weight aqueous solution. As monostearate sorbitan, a product sold under the trade name Alascel 60 (ICI) Co., Ltd. was used. Was used.

Experimental Example 5: Fine wrinkles effect

In order to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effect of the products prepared according to Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Example 1, a sample was uniformly applied to the periphery of the eyes twice a day for 30 women from 40 to 60 years old, The measurement site was defined as crow's feet and carried out for a total of 3 months. The test subjects were divided into three groups, and each of the ten subjects was subjected to the formulations of Examples 2 to 4 containing herbal extracts on the left eye, and the formulation of Comparative Example 1 on which the herbal extracts were not included on the right eye.                     

After 3 months, the degree of wrinkle reduction was assessed by visual inspection and by measuring the depth of wrinkles by image analysis of the eye wrinkle wrinkles before and after application of the sample. Visual judgment was determined in four stages: no improvement, slight improvement, moderate improvement, and significant improvement compared to each base application control. The visual judgment results are shown in Table 6 by the number of people (persons), and the results of the image analysis method are shown in Table 7 by the depth of wrinkles (μm).

No improvement Minor improvements Moderate improvement A significant improvement commandment) Example 2 5 3 2 0 10 Example 3 4 2 3 One 10 Example 4 2 One 3 4 10

As shown in the results of the fine wrinkles by the visual determination of Table 6, the embodiment according to the present invention shows the alleviation of wrinkles in all cases containing the herbal extracts, especially Example 4 is more than 80% It showed a possible wrinkle relief effect.

Before sample coating (㎛) After application of sample (㎛) Wrinkle depth reduction rate (%) Comparative Example 1 315 308 2.0 Example 2 308 289 6.0 Example 3 290 259 10.8 Example 4 295 241 18.2

As can be seen from the measurement result of the wrinkle depth by the image analysis of Table 7, the depth of the wrinkle is reduced by 2.0% in the case of Comparative Example 1, Examples 2 to 4 is 6.0 to 18.2% depending on the herbal extract concentration It was reduced compared to the control example 1 showed an effective wrinkle depth reduction effect.

As described above, in view of the effect of enhancing collagen synthesis at the skin cell level in Experimental Example 4 and reducing the depth of eye wrinkles in Experimental Example 5, the herbal extract according to the present invention and the cosmetic composition comprising the same are already produced wrinkles It showed an effective relieving effect against, and no skin side effects or wrinkles were observed.

Preparation Example 1: Lotion

The lotion of the present invention was prepared according to a conventional lotion preparation method with the following prescription.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Glycerin Dipropylene Glycol Hyaluronic Acid Polyoxyethylene Cured Castor Oil Polyethylene Oleyl Ethyl Ethanol Preservatives 5.0 3.0 0.5 0.1 0.1 5.0 0.15 Proper amount to 0.1 100

Preparation Example 2 Essence

The essence of the present invention was prepared according to the conventional essence preparation method with the following prescription.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl alcohol self-emulsifying monostearic acid beeswax squalane isocetyloctanoate dimethylsiloxane monostearic acid sorbitan monostearate polyethylene glycol glycerin propylene glycol carboxypolymer triethanolamine preservative flavorings 1.0 1.0 0.5 5.0 3.0 0.3 0.5 8.0 4.0 0.2 0.22 0.25 Proper quantity Proper quantity 7.0 100

Preparation Example 3: Lotion

The lotion of the present invention was prepared according to the conventional lotion preparation method with the following prescription.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl alcohol self-emulsifying monostearic acid beeswax stearic acid liquid paraffin squalane macadamia oil isocetyloctanoate dimethylsiloxane monostearic acid sorbitan monostearic acid polyethylene glycol glycerin propylene glycol betaine carboxypolymer triethanolamine preservatives flavored pigment extract water 0.8 1.0 0.5 0.5 7.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 0.3 0.5 1.2 4.0 4.0 4.0 0.12 0.15 0.25 Proper volume 5.0 100

Preparation Example 4 Cream

The cream of the present invention was prepared according to the conventional cream preparation method with the following prescription.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Cetostearyl alcohol Self-emulsifying monostearic acid lipophilic monostearic acid beeswax liquid paraffin squalane isocetyloctanoate tablets jojoba oil dimethylsiloxane monostearate sorbitan monostearic acid polyethyleneglycol glycerin propylene glycol betaine xanthan gum triethanolamine preservative flavoring herbal extract extract By adding 3.0 1.5 1.5 0.5 8.0 7.0 4.0 4.0 0.3 1.0 1.2 6.0 4.0 4.0 0.06 0.10 0.25 Proper quantity 7.0 100

Preparation Example 5 Gel

The gel of the present invention was prepared according to the conventional gel preparation method with the following prescription.

Raw material name Weight% (w / w) Glycerin Propylene Glycol Ethanol Polyoxyethylene Cured Castor Oil Carboxypolymer Triethanolamine Preservatives Preservatives 4.0 4.0 10 0.1 0.30 0.30 Proper appropriately 1.0 100

As described above, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprising the herbal extract is excellent in cell activation effect through cell proliferation, collagen synthesis at the skin cell level, and fine wrinkles reducing effect, deterioration of skin side effects and wrinkles Does not cause.

Claims (4)

Wrinkle relief cosmetic composition comprising the extract of peony, white paper and tanza as an active ingredient. The composition of claim 1, wherein the extract of peony, white paper and tanza is included in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt% based on the total composition. The method according to claim 1, wherein the extract is mixed with peony, white paper and tanza in a weight ratio of 0.5 to 3.0: 0.2 to 0.6: 0.05 to 0.5 to 5 to 40% by weight in distilled water, ethanol, ethyl ether, or a mixed solvent thereof. The composition is characterized in that it is produced by filtration after extraction with cold or hot needle. The composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is a lotion, essence, lotion, cream or gel.