KR20050102016A - High moisturized cosmetical composition containing unsaturated lecithin - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a highly moisturizing cosmetic composition containing unsaturated lecithin, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition based on the main components constituting the skin, and to containing the unsaturated lecithin, in particular to the liposome similar to the skin structure The present invention relates to an improved high moisturizing cosmetic composition having an excellent moisturizing effect.

Description

High moisturized cosmetical composition containing unsaturated lecithin}

The present invention relates to a highly moisturizing cosmetic composition containing unsaturated lecithin, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition based on the main components constituting the skin, and to containing the unsaturated lecithin, in particular to the liposome similar to the skin structure The present invention relates to an improved high moisturizing cosmetic composition having an excellent moisturizing effect.

Moisture is deeply involved in maintaining young skin, and moisturizing skin is an important function of cosmetics. The stratum corneum has a hydrophilic hygroscopic substance called Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which plays an important role in moisturizing the skin. The composition of NMF includes amino acids, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, urea, ammonia, uric acid, glycosamine, creatinine, citrate, sodium, potassium, calcium, chlorine, magnesium, sugars, organic acids and peptides. When considering skin moisturizing, not only NMF but also intercellular lipids and sebum, which are combined with or surrounded by them to prevent their outflow and have proper control of water evaporation, are present in oily components and are also present in the dermis. The mucopolysaccharides in charge are equally important. Recently, the theory that cosmetic ingredients hold water molecules in the dermis and prevent transdermal moisture loss has been proposed.

Barrier wall in the skin effectively manages the evaporation of moisture inside the skin because the corneocytes, like bricks, act as a hermetic seal. Keratinocytes belong to the skin lipids because their structure has a lamellar (lamellar) structure and amphiphilic properties of lipids, water molecules and coexist.

In 1847, French chemist Maurice Gobley obtained a slightly sticky and orange substance from egg yolk, which contained not only organic bases, but also oleic acid and glycerol phosphoric acid. Nitrogen was found to be included. Gobly named the substance "lecithin", which is the Greek word for egg yolk. At the time, Gobbel believed that the lecithin was a homogeneous substance, but later discovered that ethanolamine and basic choline were found in egg yolk and not homogeneous.

According to the current EU standardized description, lecithin is a mixture of polar and nonpolar lipids and is known to contain at least 60% of polar lipids that are insoluble in acetone. Phosphorus-containing lipids found in lecithin are called phospholipids, which together with Glycolipid and sphingolipid represent the polar lipid portion of lecithin. Such lecithin can be separated from egg yolk as well as brain, carp egg, blood and plant seeds as an essential component of all cell membranes. As the method of separating lecithin from seed oil has been developed, the lecithin can be produced on an industrial scale. It has become a very important technique for separating lecithin from soybeans.

Among the commercially available lecithins, glycophospholipids account for the largest amount, and all of the natural lipids of the above glycophospholipids can be derived from sn-glycero-3-phosphate, and trihydric alcohols. Phosphorus glycerol forms the skeletal structure. These glycerophospholipids have polar (hydrophilic) and nonpolar (lipophilic) moieties, which are composed of two fatty acid molecules and the polar moiety consists of phosphate groups and alcohols. There is a difference in the nature of the alcohol groups.

The lecithin and phospholipids have the properties required for preparing cosmetic compositions and are recently used in cosmetics, and have three characteristics as follows.

First, phospholipids and lecithin have excellent technical properties due to the amphiphilic molecular structure, which can emulsify lipophilic active ingredients, resulting in oil droplets coated with phospholipids as effective means of transporting lipophilic active ingredients. (Ultraspheres, Ceraspheres), which is applied as an emulsifier, and liposomes are applied as liposome forming materials as an ideal means of transporting water-soluble active ingredients, and are applied as stabilizers because they have the property of preventing the aggregation of suspended matter, especially in aerosol products by coating cosmetic pigments. . In addition, the coating improves the adhesion of the pigment to the skin, which is applied to color cosmetics such as lipsticks and makeup products, thereby preventing or delaying the recrystallization of fats of the constituents of the composition. It improves stability and solidity, especially for lipsticks.

High-purity lecithin concentrates in ethanol are often applied as solubilizers because they can dissolve soluble substances that are difficult to dissolve at moderate temperatures (50-60 ° C), such as ceramides, triglycerides of long-chain fatty acids, etc. The same solution can be added to the aqueous or oil phase without any problem.

Next, phospholipids and lecithin give effective effects on skin and hair care products because they have properties as active ingredients.

These ingredients form a mono or oligolamellae layer on the skin and remain on the skin after washing, where the thin film is formed without any greasy feeling, which provides greater smoothness, suppleness and strong defense against skin degreasing and The moisturizing balance gives a positive effect such as being enhanced by the lecithin's strong water binding ability, and also has the property of giving the hair non-sticky and improving the binding force to reduce the static electricity of the hair.

Finally, phospholipids and lecithin have properties derived from nature. In other words, phospholipids and lecithin are obtained from soy or egg yolk by the extraction process, are decomposed by microorganisms and thus have an ecological feel, are produced from reusable raw materials, and are safe substances that do not cause toxic substances or skin diseases. . Lecithin is generally recognized as safe (GRAS-status) and is also used as an emulsifier in pharmaceutical products for intravenous injection.

That is, in the case of a cosmetic composition to which lecithin is applied, it should be safe while having excellent skin protection effect as a natural ingredient. Therefore, the origin and properties of raw materials, degradability, etc. are emphasized more. For this reason, the importance of natural origin cosmetics is increasing and in recent years the market share of these products is gradually increasing.

The inventors of the present invention have tried to develop a natural emulsifier in the field of cosmetics, unsaturated lecithin and lecithin and phospholipids as a raw material source of natural substances have no toxicity or side effects to the skin, is recognized as an active active ingredient for many years The present invention has been completed with the focus on being used as an emulsifier of fat emulsions in the pharmaceutical field.

Accordingly, the present invention is a novel and improved high moisturizer comprising unsaturated lecithin, which is a source of highly unsaturated fatty acids in haircare and skincare and is also recognized as a valuable raw material for the production of liposomes commonly applied to functional cosmetic compositions. The purpose is to provide a cosmetic composition.

The present invention provides a liposome-ized moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising 1-5% by weight of cytosterol, 1-5% by weight of cholesterol, 1-10% by weight of cholesterol sulfide, 1-10% by weight of ceramide, and 1-10% by weight of glycerin. 1 to 10% by weight of macadamia nut oil, 1 to 10% by weight of jojoba oil, 1 to 10% by weight of phytosphingosine, 1 to 10% by weight of saturated lecithin, 1 to 10% by weight of unsaturated lecithin and residual amount of water It is characterized by a highly moisturizing cosmetic composition.

The present invention will be described in detail as follows.

The present invention relates to a highly moisturizing cosmetic composition containing unsaturated lecithin, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition based on the main components constituting the skin, and to containing the unsaturated lecithin, in particular to the liposome similar to the skin structure The present invention relates to an improved high moisturizing cosmetic composition having an excellent moisturizing effect.

Highly moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention is composed of components similar to the components constituting the stratum corneum of the skin, the stratum corneum of the skin is composed of phospholipids, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate, free fatty acids, glycosyl ceramides and ceramides as main components do.

Hereinafter will be described in detail for each component constituting the highly moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention.

In the present invention, 1 to 5% by weight of cytosterol, 1 to 5% by weight of cholesterol, and 1 to 10% by weight of cholesterol sulfide are used. In this case, it is difficult to expect a desirable effect if the amount is out of the above range.

The amount of ceramide is 1 to 10% by weight, and if the amount is out of the above range, a stable emulsion cannot be prepared, 1 to 10% by weight of glycerin, 1 to 10% by weight of macadamia nut oil, and 1 to 1% of jojoba oil. 10% by weight, phytosphingosine is used in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, which is not preferred if the amount is out of the above range. As used herein, 'saturated lecithin' refers to lecithin containing saturated fatty acid, and 'unsaturated lecithin' refers to lecithin containing unsaturated fatty acid.

In the present invention, the saturated lecithin is used in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, and the unsaturated lecithin included in the present invention is used in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight.

Highly moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention consisting of the above composition is prepared by the method of forming a small unit lamellar vesicle and lamellar structure.

In the present invention, both types of saturated lecithin and unsaturated lecithin can be used to make liposomes. However, always keep in mind that you must work above the phase transition temperature (> 55 ° C). That is, liposomes can be prepared simply by reducing the bubble size and particle size distribution through a similar process such as dispersing lecithin in water or in an aqueous solution of the active ingredient, followed by high pressure homogenization. The quality of the liposome dispersion depends on the preparation method and the lecithin used at this time, and the particles of 100-300 nm size can be obtained by homogenizing at high pressure.

In the case of preparing the emulsion with saturated lecithin, it is possible to add the lecithin to the oil phase or the water phase when preparing the emulsion by adding the saturated lecithin. The simplest method is to add it to the water phase at 60-80 ° C. until the lecithin is completely dispersed. Stir for 30 minutes. After mixing with the oil phase and homogenizing, an emulsion can be obtained.

Unsaturated lecithin is soluble in oil and dispersed in water, but dissolving unsaturated lecithin in oil is often time consuming and requires high temperature conditions. The easiest way to prepare a cosmetic composition comprising such unsaturated lecithin is to disperse unsaturated lecithin in water at room temperature. The dispersion thus prepared can be easily added to surfactants (cleaners) and, in emulsions (o / w or w / o), can be added directly to the aqueous phase during the production of creams or lotions. Lecithin with a low concentration of phosphatidyl choline is not as soluble in oil as high-purity lecithin. Therefore, when preparing liposomes with unsaturated lecithin, it is particularly preferable to select unsaturated lecithin of high purity.

The technique of converting unsaturated lecithin into saturated (or hydrogenated) lecithin has led to new prospects for this valuable raw material.

Unlike unsaturated lecithin, hydrogenated saturated lecithin is a white or beige odorless product that is stable to oxidation and commercially available in the form of powder, granules, porous masses, and the like. In addition, lecithin (saturated lecithin) having a saturated fatty acid is found in nature such as, for example, surfactants in the lungs and phospholipids of milk, and hydrogen is added as a catalyst to lecithin (unsaturated lecithin) having an unsaturated fatty acid. Saturated lecithin produced is also a natural substance.

Efficacy lecithin is a raw material that can satisfy the high level required in modern cosmetics, and thus unsaturated lecithin is also an excellent raw material. That is, it is possible to produce o / w emulsions that can be recognized as sufficiently stable in the cosmetic field by the addition of unsaturated lecithin as described above.

In general, the distance between the intercellular lipids is 100 ~ 200 nm, the highly moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention prepared as described above has a particle size of 100 ~ 500 nm, and saturated lecithin and unsaturated lecithin acts as a cosmetic ingredient The substance penetrates into keratinocytes very quickly, and it is excellent in moisturizing interstitial lipids, holding water of dermis, moisture moisturizing power, and moisturizing in keratinocytes. In addition, high moisturizing cream is very moisturizing effect, it can be seen that the skin transdermal moisture loss is very low.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Example: Preparation of Highly Moisturizing Cream

A high moisturizing cream was prepared by forming a small unit lamellar vesicle and a lamellar structure. That is, except the water, the components of Table 1 were mixed, heated and stirred up to 100 ° C., an appropriate amount of water was added thereto, mixed and stirred, and the stirred mixture was wetted at a temperature in the range of 90 to 98 ° C. for 1 hour. After passing this under high pressure in a high pressure homogenizer, it was cooled and then defoamed to prepare a highly moisturizing cream.

Ingredient Usage (w / w) Hydro lecithin 1 to 10 Unsaturated lecithin 1 to 10 Citosterol 1 to 5 cholesterol 1 to 5 glycerin 1 to 10 Cholesterol Selfiede 1 to 10 Phytosphingosine 1 to 10 Cetearyl Alcohol 1 to 10 Macadamia Nut Oil 1 to 10 Jojoba oil 1 to 10 Ceramide IIIB 1 to 10 Purified water Quantity Sum 100.00

After the freeze-pulverizing (FREEZE ~ FRACTURE) of the highly moisturizing cream composition of the present invention prepared as described above is shown in Figure 1 attached to the electron microscope, the liquid crystal using an optical polarization microscope (OLYMPUS BX50) The observed results are shown in FIG. 2.

Experimental Example 1: Moisturizing power measurement

The high moisturizing cream composition of the present invention prepared in the above embodiment, the general cream, gel cream and the moisturizing power of the skin not applied to the cream was measured after applying the cream to the moisturizing power measuring instrument (CORNEOMETER CM850), The results are shown graphically in the accompanying drawings, FIG. 3. According to Figure 3 it can be seen that the high moisturizing cream of the present invention is superior to the moisturizing cream.

Experimental Example 2 Measurement of Skin Percutaneous Water Loss

Highly moisturizing cream composition of the present invention prepared in the above embodiments, the general cream, gel cream and skin transdermal moisture loss with time of not applying the cream described above in the skin transdermal moisture loss measuring instrument (TEWAMETER TM250) Measured after applying the cream, the results are shown in the accompanying drawings, Figure 4. According to Figure 4 it can be seen that the high moisturizing cream of the present invention has excellent skin transdermal moisture loss.

As described above, the highly moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention is formed in fine particles so as to be similar to the distance between intercellular lipids of the skin, and saturated lecithin and unsaturated lecithin act to penetrate keratinocytes very quickly. Moisturizing in keratinocyte interstitial lipid, holding water of dermis, moisture moisturizing power, and moisturizing in keratinocytes is very excellent. In addition, high moisturizing cream is very moisturizing effect, it can be seen that the skin transdermal moisture loss is very low.

In addition, unlike the conventional cosmetic composition by applying an unsaturated lecithin as a natural emulsifier there is a progressive effect of further expanding the range of the natural emulsifier used in the cosmetic composition.

In Figure 1 (a) is a SEM picture of the existing cream particles, (b) is a SEM picture of the particles of a high moisturizing cream prepared according to an embodiment of the present invention.

2 is a polarized light micrograph of a highly moisturizing cream prepared according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Figure 3 is a graph comparing the moisturizing power of the high moisturizing cream and the general cream, gel cream of the present invention.

Figure 4 is a graph comparing the dermal transdermal moisture loss of the high moisturizing cream and the general cream, gel cream of the present invention.

Claims (2)

In the liposome moisturizing cosmetic composition, 1 to 5% by weight of cysterol, 1 to 5% by weight of cholesterol, 1 to 10% by weight of cholesterol sulfide, 1 to 10% by weight of ceramide, 1 to 10% by weight of glycerin, 1 to 10% by weight of macadamia nut oil, 1 jojoba oil A high moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising-10% by weight, phytosphingosine 1-10% by weight, saturated lecithin 1-10% by weight, unsaturated lecithin 1-10% by weight and residual amount of water. The high moisturizing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the high moisturizing cosmetic composition is a small unit lamellar vesicle or a multilamellar type.