KR100527346B1 - multilamellar emulsion cosmetics containing pseudoceramides - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetics in the form of multiple lamellar emulsions containing pseudo (non-natural) ceramides represented by the following formula (1) or (2), and more particularly, pseudo ceramides, nonionic surfactants, and cetostearyl. It relates to a cosmetic made in the form of a more stable multi-lamellae emulsion with an alcohol as a main component and a polyhydric alcohol and an emulsifying adjuvant mixed as an adjuvant.

or,

(R ₁ and R ₂ are each a straight or branched alkyl group having 6 to ₂₂ carbon atoms)

Description

Multilamellar emulsion cosmetics containing pseudoceramides

The present invention relates to cosmetics in the form of multiple lamellar emulsions containing pseudo (non-natural) ceramides represented by the following general formula (1) or (2), and more specifically 0.05 to 10 wt% of pseudoceramide, nonionic interface To the cosmetics in the form of a multi-lamellae emulsion prepared by mixing 0.5-20% by weight of the active agent and 0.5-20% by weight of cetostearyl alcohol as a main ingredient, 0.5-20% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol and 0.05-20% by weight of an emulsifying aid. It is about.

Formula 1

or,

Formula 2

(R ₁ and R ₂ are each a straight or branched alkyl group having 6 to ₂₂ carbon atoms)

As used herein, the weight ratio is based on the entire cosmetic, and the following is also the same unless otherwise specified.

Ceramide is a very important component in the stratum corneum of the skin epidermis and accounts for about 40-50% of the lipid component of keratinocytes. These ceramides, along with other keratinocyte lipid components, form multiple lamellar structures between keratinocytes to prevent evaporation of the skin and to maintain moisture to soften the skin and keep the skin healthy. If the ceramide is lost due to loss of skin, the skin becomes rough due to excessive moisture evaporation of the skin and the destruction of the protective film.

In recent years, there have been attempts to apply to cosmetics using natural ceramides or synthetic pseudo-ceramides. The inventors of the present invention have developed a method for producing a similar ceramide, which is very similar to a natural ceramide, at a low cost, and have applied for an international patent application (PCT / KR97 / 00220), using a pseudoceramide prepared by the method described in the patent. We tried to develop cosmetics with excellent skin-friendly and useful to skin.

Recently, there have been attempts to apply multiple lamellar emulsions to cosmetics as new formulations. Conventional nonionic surfactant-cetostearyl alcohol-based multi-lamellae swell in the emulsification system to increase the viscosity and hardness of the cosmetic, or the loss of the multi-lamellar structure is undesirable. Therefore, when chemically unstable components are contained, these components are decomposed by changes over time, and their efficacy is lowered, resulting in the loss of the properties of the multi-lamellar structure.

Multi-lamellar emulsions have a multi-layered structure, which can be seen that the emulsion particles formed after emulsification are cut by freezing and then observed through an electron microscope to show that each emulsion particle has a multi-layered structure. T. Suzuki, 17th IFSCC, 1992,). By measuring the multi-layered structure by X-ray diffraction (XRD), it can be seen that the lamellar structure is formed.

The present invention is to apply a multi-lamellar structure formed between the keratinocytes of the skin to provide a multi-lamellae emulsion cosmetics mainly composed of pseudo-ceramide, nonionic surfactant, cetostearyl alcohol. In the production of multiple lamellar emulsions, the oil phase can be melted by heating and then purified water can be added to induce phase transition emulsification of the W / O emulsion into an O / W emulsion.

The multiple lamellar emulsions according to the present invention are prepared by mixing similar ceramides, nonionic surfactants and cetostearyl alcohols represented by the formulas (1) and (2) in a ratio of 0.5 to 2.0: 1.5 to 5.0: 1.0 to 3.0. Are manufactured. Such multiple lamellar emulsions exhibit high stability and skin utility as compared to conventional O / W emulsions.

In the case of the conventional simple emulsification type, since the emulsifier forms a micelle surrounding the oil component, it is not preferable because the emulsifier is easily coalesced between the emulsified particles due to the change of external environment such as temperature and the emulsion is destroyed.

On the other hand, since the multi-lamellar emulsion is formed in a multi-lamellar structure emulsified particles do not become unified can obtain a high stability. In addition, since the multi-lamellar emulsion has a lamellar structure similar to the interstitial intercellular lipid structure, when applied to damaged skin, it supplements the broken intercellular keratin structure and forms a skin protective film to prevent moisture evaporation of the skin. It also keeps the skin healthy by preventing the invasion of foreign substances by the formed skin protective film. In particular, since the lamellar structure itself may contain a large amount of water, it shows an excellent effect on the skin moisturizing function.

In addition, since the lamellar structure is a structure in which the hydrophilic layer and the lipophilic layer are alternately present, the lamella structure is also highly functional as a drug delivery system widely used in the pharmaceutical field. That is, a hydrophilic useful substance can be contained in a hydrophilic layer, and a lipophilic useful substance can be contained in a lipophilic layer.

The multiple lamellar emulsions are characterized by stabilizing the reduction of stability of skin useful substances by external factors such as ultraviolet rays, water, pH, and the like. In addition, the multi-lamellar emulsion can effectively apply the useful ingredient in the transdermal application by maintaining a high skin-friendly natural oils or lipophilic useful substances in the emulsion particles.

Therefore, the present invention not only provides excellent skin affinity and useful cosmetics for the skin by using pseudo ceramides as described above, but also has the advantages of multiple lamellar emulsions, thereby improving the stability and moisturizing power of the cosmetic formulation and lipophilic skin. Useful materials can be applied.

An object of the present invention is excellent skin affinity according to the content of similar ceramides very similar to natural ceramides, which is a lipid component between the keratinocytes, and contains a multi-lamellae emulsion very similar to the lamellar structure, a lipid structure between the keratinocytes. The present invention provides a cosmetic having improved skin utility such as stability, skin moisturizing effect, and skin protective film formation.

Cosmetics in the form of a multi-lamellae emulsion according to the present invention is 0.05 to 10% by weight of similar ceramide represented by the formula (1) or (2), 0.5 to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactant and 0.5 to 20% by weight of cetostearyl alcohol. It is characterized by containing as a main component%, 0.5-20 weight% of polyhydric alcohol, and 0.05-20 weight% of emulsification adjuvant as auxiliary components.

In addition, the multiple lamellar emulsions according to the present invention are characterized in that pseudo-ceramides, nonionic surfactants and cetostearyl alcohol are mixed at a ratio of 0.5 to 2.0: 1.5 to 5.0: 1.0 to 3.0.

When the weight ratio and the component ratio of each of the above components are out of the range, the multiple lamellar emulsion may not be formed, or the formed multilamellar structure may swell and disappear to maintain stability of the multiple lamellar emulsion.

Analogous ceramide used in the present invention is the synthesis of the above formula (1) by reacting an alkyl ketene dimer and ethanolamine according to the prior patent (PCT / KR 97/00020) by the present inventor, wherein the formula (2) It is prepared by reduction reaction of (1). It is preferable that pseudo ceramide contains 0.05-10 weight% with respect to the whole cosmetics.

Nonionic surfactants of the present invention are polyethylene glycol type, higher alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, higher fatty acid ethylene oxide adducts, polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester ethylene oxide adducts, oil and fat ethylene oxide adducts, polypropylene glycol ethylene oxide adducts and the like. As the polyhydric alcohol type, fatty acid esters of glyceryl, fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acid esters of sorbitol and sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sugar, alkyl esters of polyhydric alcohol, etc. can be used. Can be. It is preferable that a nonionic surfactant contains 0.5 to 20 weight% with respect to the whole cosmetics.

The cetostearyl alcohol preferably contains 0.5 to 20% by weight based on the entire cosmetic. In the present invention, cetostearyl alcohol commercialized by mixing 2: 8 with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is used. The polyhydric alcohol is used alone or in combination with glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and preferably contains 0.5 to 20% by weight based on the entire cosmetic.

In addition, emulsification aids can be used to play a secondary role in forming a multi-lamellar structure, for example, cholesterol and its derivatives and higher fatty acids as lipid components between keratinocytes. The cholesterol and its derivatives and higher fatty acids can be used alone or in combination. It is preferable that an emulsification adjuvant contains 0.05-20 weight% with respect to the whole cosmetics.

Meanwhile, the present invention may include a lipophilic substance having high skin affinity in order to increase the usefulness of the skin in addition to the above components, for example, natural oils and other oils.

The multi-lamellar emulsion containing pseudoceramide according to the present invention is heated, dissolved, and mixed with the above components except water and polyhydric alcohol or oil, and then mixed with polyhydric alcohol or oil, and then slowly added water to room temperature while stirring. Multiple lamella emulsions are induced by cooling to effect phase transition emulsification. At this time, natural cooling is more preferable than rapid cooling. In the case of quenching, the multiple lamellar structure is broken and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.

1 is a polarized light micrograph of the multi-lamellar emulsion structure of the cosmetic according to the present invention. As shown in the photograph, the multilamellar structure has a cruciform core. The emulsion prepared in the comparative example below appears dark under a polarizing microscope because it does not show multiple lamellar structures.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples.

(Examples 1-3)

As shown in Table 1, cosmetics in the form of multiple lamellar emulsions containing pseudoceramides, nonionic surfactants, cetostearyl alcohol, polyhydric alcohols, and emulsifiers were prepared. First, the remaining components except oils, polyhydric alcohol and purified water were dissolved by heating at 85 to 95 ° C., and oil and polyhydric alcohol were added and stirred with a homomixer at 4000 to 5000 rpm. Then, when the temperature of the mixture reaches 55-70 ° C., the phase transition emulsification was induced while slowly adding purified water heated to about 50 ° C. After adding purified water, the mixture was sufficiently stirred while cooling at room temperature to prepare a multilamellar emulsion cosmetic.

As pseudo ceramide, pseudo ceramide belonging to R ₁ = -C ₁₇ H ₃₅ , R ₂ = -C ₁₆ H ₃₅ in Formula (1) was used, and as a thickener, cepigel (Polyacrylamide & C ₁₃ manufactured by Seppic, France) was used. -C ₁₄ Isoparaffin & Laureth-7) was used.

(Comparative Examples 1 to 3)

Emulsion-type cosmetics were prepared in the same manner as in the examples except that pseudo ceramide and other emulsifiers were not added. The obtained cosmetics in the form of the emulsion did not form at all, or very weak multiple lamellar emulsions.

Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Pseudoceramide 0.5 0.8 1.0 - - - POE alkyl ether / stearyl alcohol 1.5 - - 1.5 - - POE (15) glyceryl Monostearate - 3.0 - - 3.0 - Glyceryl Monostearate - 1.0 1.2 - 1.0 1.2 POE (20) sorbitan monostearate - - 2.2 - - 2.2 Sorbitan monostearate - - 0.5 - - 0.5 Cetostearyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 1.6 2.0 2.0 1.6 glycerin - 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 Propylene glycol 5.0 2.5 - 5.0 2.5 - 1,3-butylene glycol - - 2.5 - - 2.5 cholesterol 0.25 0.4 - - - - Stearic acid 1.0 2.8 3.5 0.5 1.4 1.8 Liquid paraffin 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 - Olive oil - 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 Macadamianet Oil 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 Thickener 0.5 - - 0.5 - - Spices Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity antiseptic Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Purified water Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity

(Confirmation of multiple lamella emulsion)

When the cosmetics in the form of a multi-lamellae emulsion prepared by Example 2 were observed with a polarizing microscope (Optiphot-2 Pol, manufactured by Nikon), a unique image of a cross shape (Maltese Cross) was observed (see FB Rosevear, J.). Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 19, 581-594, 1968; T. Suzuki, 17th IFSCC, 1992). Figure 1 shows the shape of multiple lamellar emulsion as a polarizing microscope picture. On the other hand, Example 1 and 3 also observed with a polarizing microscope, it was possible to observe the form of multiple lamellar emulsion of the same structure as in Example 2. In the case of Comparative Examples 1 to 3, multiple lamellar emulsions were not observed or very weak as pseudo ceramide and other emulsifiers were excluded.

(Stability test over time)

In order to see the difference in stability over time for the cosmetics prepared according to the above Examples and Comparative Examples, phase transition experiments were carried out by drying. This test is a direct comparison between the cosmetics of the multi-lamellae emulsion form in the Examples and the emulsified cosmetics in the Comparative Example, and each composition is evenly applied to a petri dish by 5 g each at a thickness of about 2 to 3 mm and then 37 ° C. After leaving for more than 2 days, the phase change of drying was observed. The phase transition results were expressed as ◎ (very stable)> ○ (stable)> △ (somewhat phase separated)> X (high phase separation). The results are shown in Table 2.

As shown in the test results of Table 2, in the examples of the multi-lamellar emulsion containing pseudo ceramides, all existed in the first applied state not only after the test period but also after 5 days or more, and the multi-lamellar structure remained stable. It confirmed that there was. However, in the emulsified comparative example, the surface is hardened and the phase is separated with drying. Particles aggregated are formed on the surface, and coalescence between the emulsion particles occurs. As a result, it can be seen that the multiple lamellar emulsions are much more stable than the general emulsion type.

On the other hand, to determine the stability over time of the cosmetics of the multi-lamellar emulsion form prepared according to the above embodiment at room temperature (25 ℃), high temperature (45 ℃), freeze-thaw room (-21 ~ 25 ℃, 24 hours cycle) After a certain period of time, the phase change of the multiple lamellar emulsions was observed with a polarizing microscope. The phase stability was expressed as ◎ (very stable)> ○ (stable)> Δ (the lamellar phase is somewhat destroyed)> X (the lamella phase is completely destroyed). The results are shown in Table 3.

As shown in the stability test results of Table 3, it was observed that a stable multiple lamellar emulsion phase was maintained when the multilamellar emulsion was formed and contains pseudoceramide according to an embodiment of the present invention.

As described above, the cosmetics of the multiple lamellar emulsion form containing the pseudo-ceramide of the present invention are more excellent in stability than the usual emulsified cosmetics, and can sufficiently exert the advantages of the multiple lamellar emulsion on the skin by maintaining the lamellar structure for a long time. .

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 30 minutes after application ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ 1 day later ◎ ◎ ◎ △ △ △ 2 days later ◎ ◎ ◎ X X X 5 days later ○ ○ ○ X X X

Storage condition Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Room temperature (25 ℃) 1 month later ◎ ◎ ◎ 2 months later ◎ ◎ ◎ 3 months later ◎ ◎ ◎ 45 ℃ 1 month later ◎ ◎ ◎ 2 months later ◎ ◎ ◎ 3 months later ○ ○ ○ -20 ~ 25 ℃ After 10 iterations ◎ ◎ ◎

(Moisturizing evaluation of skin)

Twenty subjects were evaluated for the skin's moisturizing power with respect to the cosmetics of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. The skin moisturizing power was evaluated by measuring a capacitance of the skin according to the moisture content using a coneometer (Corneometer CM820: manufactured by Conrage + Khazaka) as a measuring device. As a result, as shown in Table 4, it can be seen that in the case of Examples 1 to 3, the moisturizing power is much superior to that of Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

Experiment item Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Primary 30 minutes after application 74 78 76 52 64 63 120 minutes after application 67 70 68 5O 52 52 Secondary 30 minutes after application 76 79 78 50 62 62 120 minutes after application 69 72 7l 52 54 50

(Evaluation)

Twenty subjects were subjected to sensory evaluation on the feeling of use of the cosmetics of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. The sensory evaluation on the feeling of use was evaluated for the feeling of use after applying the cosmetics prepared in each example to the subject's hands or face with a perfect score of 5 points. Table 5 shows the average of sensory evaluation values for the 20 subjects' feelings. As can be seen from the results in Table 5, the results of evaluation on the feeling of use showed that the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 3 according to the present invention were superior to the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

Test Items Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Feeling 4.3 4.6 4.5 3.4 3.6 3.4

As can be seen from the results of the above experimental example, the cosmetic according to the present invention containing pseudo ceramide and made of a multi lamellar emulsion has no pseudo ceramide and does not contain multiple lamellar emulsions in terms of preservation stability, moisturizing power to the skin and feeling of use. It was superior to the cosmetics of the comparative example.

1 is a polarization micrograph showing a multi-lamellar structure of the cosmetic according to the present invention.

Claims (1)

0.05-10% by weight of similar ceramide represented by the following formula (1) or (2), 0.5-20% by weight of nonionic surfactant, 0.5-20% by weight of cetostearyl alcohol, 0.5-20% by weight of polyhydric alcohol and emulsification Cosmetics in the form of multiple lamellar emulsions containing 0.05 to 20% by weight of an adjuvant. Formula 1 or, Formula 2 (R ₁ and R ₂ are each a straight or branched alkyl group having 6 to ₂₂ carbon atoms)