KR20050006243A - Rinsable skin conditioning compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

Rinsing skin conditioning compositions containing a high internal phase emulsion and substantially free of surfactants provide excellent deposition of conditioning agents, skin protectants and / or other conventional cosmetic or skin care ingredients on the skin. Such rinsable skin conditioning compositions also have very improved aesthetic properties.

Description

Rinseable Skin Conditioning Composition {RINSABLE SKIN CONDITIONING COMPOSITIONS}

Skin conditioning compositions are known which provide a moisturizing effect. Many of these compositions are aqueous systems containing emulsified conditioning oils or other similar materials stabilized with surfactants. Typically, the skin moisturizing composition is in the form of a lotion that is applied to the skin after bathing and throughout the day if reapplication is needed.

The skin is composed of collagen fiber proteins that form the backbone of the skin structure and several layers of cells that coat and protect the keratin. The outermost of these layers is called the stratum corneum and is known to consist of a 25 nm protein bundle surrounded by an 8 nm thick layer. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and destroy the integrity of the membrane by degreasing (ie, removing lipids from the stratum corneum). This disruption of the topography of the skin makes the feel rough, and eventually the surfactant or solvent interacts with the keratin, creating irritation.

It is now recognized that maintaining a proper moisture gradient across the stratum corneum is important for the functionality of the stratum corneum. Most of this water, sometimes considered as a softener in the stratum corneum, comes from the body's interior. If the humidity is too low, such as in cold climates, insufficient moisture will remain in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to adequately soften the tissue, and the skin will begin to peel and itch. Insufficient moisture across the stratum corneum also slightly reduces skin permeability. On the other hand, when the outside of the skin is exposed to high concentrations of water for a long time, the stratum corneum ultimately absorbs 3-5 times the weight of its own bound moisture. This causes the skin to swell and wrinkles into the skin resulting in an approximately two to three fold increase in skin permeability to water and moisturizer molecules. Since the skin is hydrated during the shower or bath, this is recognized as the ideal time to deliver the moisturizer to the skin because the absorption of the moisturizer will be high.

It is also more desirable to deliver the skin conditioning effect through in-the-shower or in-the-bath lotion in the shower. Unfortunately, during the shower / bath the moisturizer is often easily rinsed away from the skin. This is especially true when surfactants are present.

Thus, by effectively depositing moisturizers and / or other skin protectants during showers and / or baths, the stratum corneum functions as its barrier and water retention function at optimal performance despite the harmful interactions the skin may face in washing, working and recreation. There is a need for a composition that helps maintain this.

Preferred properties of such skin care compositions should provide good skin feel, moisture retention, moisturizing, absorption and rub-in characteristics. One way to deliver high moisturizing properties to the skin is to incorporate polyhydric alcohol type humectant materials such as glycerin into the composition. However, skin compositions having a high level of moisturization when left on the skin by containing high levels of polyhydric alcohols are easily rinsed by the consumer during showers and / or baths. An alternative method of delivering the desired benefits to the skin is to incorporate oil soluble skin care ingredients such as petrolatum into the skin care composition. Oil-incorporated compositions as oil-in-water emulsions must stabilize the emulsion, which is typically used in surfactants (typically nonionic surfactants for lotions, and anionic or amphoteric surfactants for foaming products). Is made by In addition, when stabilized with a surfactant, such a composition is insufficiently deposited on the skin due to the emulsification of the oil by the surfactant.

Another method previously used for more effective oil deposition was to deliver the oil through a water-in-oil emulsion. However, such compositions have significant trade-offs in terms of insufficient (greasy) aesthetic properties, insufficient spreadability on the skin, and the creation of unsafe slippery shower and / or bath floors.

It is a tremendous challenge to deposit an effective amount of skin conditioning ingredients on the skin through a rinsable skin conditioning composition that is also well tolerated by the consumer. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that oil soluble conditioning agents are easily emulsified by surfactants present in most body wash and body lotion compositions. Thus, the conditioning agent is rinsed during the personal cleansing process. Attempts have been made to formulate two-in-on body wash products that not only cleanse the skin but also additionally moisturize the skin, but the product is generally at the same level as the residual lotion. It does not deposit a sufficient amount of skin conditioning ingredients to deliver the skin moisturizer. Such inadequate conditioning does not meet consumer needs.

Accordingly, there remains a need for rinsable skin conditioning compositions that can provide improved conditioning and other skin care effects to human skin. In addition, there remains a need for rinsable skin conditioning compositions that exhibit pleasant tactile properties and increased deposition of skin conditioning and / or skin care agents. There remains a need for use lotion compositions in showers and / or baths that not only provide high levels of moisturization but also exhibit low levels of stickiness and / or stickiness while providing good skin feel, skin suppleness and skin smoothing effects.

Unexpectedly it has now been found that compositions containing high internal oil-in-water emulsions exhibit excellent oil deposits, good moisturizing effects, low levels of stickiness or stickiness, and excellent product stability. Such compositions can be formulated at surprisingly high viscosity while maintaining good spreadability on wet skin. In addition, the composition exhibits the effect of good skin feel, skin suppleness and skin smoothness. Another effect on the use of high internal phase emulsions is that they are very easy to manufacture, and they provide formulated significant control over the size of the oil droplets, which are less irritating, and that they are not compatible with previously incompatible materials in the same product. To allow oil painting. These and other effects are discussed in more detail below.

The present invention provides a rinsable skin conditioning composition which may further contain a skin protectant. Such compositions improve the aesthetics and skin feel during and / or after application and are particularly useful for improving the deposition or effectiveness of skin conditioning agents on desired skin areas. The effect of the composition of the present invention is further improved.

The present invention also provides a method of conditioning the skin using the described composition.

Summary of the Invention

The present invention fulfills the above-mentioned need by providing a rinsable skin conditioning composition containing an oil-in-water emulsion, wherein the composition has a Deposition Efficiency (DE) where DE = [ _after W-W ₀ ] / [ W _I - W _0] x 100) is at least about 2%. The present invention also relates to (a) at least one high internal phase emulsion containing (i) oil, (ii) stabilizer, and (iii) water; (b) a rinsable skin conditioning composition containing a balance which is a common cosmetic and skin care ingredient.

The invention also relates to (i) from about 20% to about 90% by weight of oil; (ii) about 0.1% to about 10% by weight stabilizer; (iii) about 9.5 wt% to about 79.5 wt% water; And (iv) from about 0% to about 2% by weight fragrance.

The present invention also provides skin conditioning and / or moisturizing effects to human skin when applied and rinsed during showering and / or bathing, and comprising: I. one or more high internal emulsions containing oils, stabilizers, and water, and II. A commercially available article having a container comprising a rinse off skin conditioning composition containing the remaining material, which is a conventional cosmetic and skin care ingredient, substantially free of surfactants, wherein the container typically contains skin There are instructions for conditioning and moisturizing the skin, including instructions for washing and rinsing, spreading the product onto the skin outside the flow of water, simply rinsing and patting lightly with a towel.

The present invention also relates to at least one high internal phase emulsion containing (A) I. (i) oil, (ii) stabilizer, and (iii) water, and II. Preparing a rinsable skin conditioning composition that contains the remainder of the material as a conventional makeup and skin care component and is substantially surfactant free; (B) applying the product of step (A) to the wet skin of a human; And (C) rinsing the product from the skin.

All documents cited are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety, and citation of any document should not be construed as an admission of prior art related to the present invention.

The present invention relates to a rinsable skin conditioning composition. More specifically, the present invention relates to skin conditioning compositions that are substantially free of surfactants and contain high internal phase emulsions.

Specific embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below.

As used herein, the term "ambient conditions" refers to ambient conditions of 1 atmosphere, 50% relative humidity, and 25 ° C, unless otherwise specified.

As used herein, the term "skin conditioning composition" refers to a composition of the present invention for topical application to the skin, unless otherwise specified. The term "rinsable" as used herein, unless otherwise specified, Represents a composition that may be rinsed or left from the skin after application as required by the user.

All percentages, parts and ratios used in the present invention are based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise specified. Unless otherwise specified, all such weights related to the listed ingredients are based on active agent concentrations and therefore do not include solvents or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.

The skin conditioning compositions and methods of the present invention are not only essential elements and limitations of the invention disclosed herein, but also any additional or optional use of the skin conditioning compositions disclosed herein or otherwise useful for topical application to the skin or hair. It may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of raw materials, components, or limitations.

Product form

The rinsable composition of the present invention is a liquid or semi-liquid, cream or mousse composition for topical application to the skin. A product form contemplated for the purpose of limiting the compositions and methods of the invention is a rinsable formulation, which is typically applied topically to the skin and subsequently rinsed with water or otherwise described as substrate or Means a product which is wiped using other suitable removal means. However, the composition of the present invention may be used as a residual lotion without departing from the spirit of the present invention.

All elements of the invention are described in detail below.

High internal phase emulsion

The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention contain one or more high internal phase (HIP) emulsions containing oils, stabilizers and water. The composition is substantially free of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants. “Substantially free” means that the composition is less than about 3%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%, even more preferably less than about 0.25%, most preferably less than about 0.1% It means to contain a surfactant. Optionally, the composition may also contain other skin protectants and conventional cosmetic or skin care ingredients.

The main difference between HIP emulsions and conventional emulsions is that in HIP emulsions a high level of oil packing is used to produce viscosity.

oil

The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the invention are typically from about 20% to about 90% oil, more preferably 25 to 70% oil, even more preferably 25 to 60% oil, most preferably 30% To 40% oil. Oils suitable for use in the present invention include any natural and synthetic material having a total solubility parameter of less than about 12.5 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , preferably less than about 11.5 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 . Solubility parameters of oils described herein are measured by methods known in the chemical art to establish the relative polarity characteristics of the material. A description of solubility parameters and methods of measuring them can be found in CD Vaughn, Solubility Effects in Product, Package, Penetration and Preservation 103 Cosmetics and Toiletries 47-69, October 1988; And CD Vaughn, Using Solubility Parameters in Cosmetics Formulation, 36 J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists 319-333, September / October, 1988.

"Total Solubility Parameter" is as the overall solubility parameter of the oil mixture of about 12.5 (cal / cm ³⁾ is less than ^0.5 if the blend the oil and other oils using the oil solubility parameter is 12.5 (cal / cm ^{3) 0.5} more than It can be reduced. For example, some diethylene glycol (solubility parameter = 13.61) may be blended with lanolin oil (solubility parameter = 7.3) and a cosolublizing agent to produce a mixture with a solubility parameter of less than 12.5 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5. Can be.

Such oils include hydrocarbon oils and waxes, silicones, fatty acid derivatives, cholesterol, cholesterol derivatives, diglycerides, triglycerides, vegetable oils, vegetable oil derivatives, acetoglyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, lanolin and derivatives thereof, Wax esters, beeswax derivatives, sterols and phospholipids and combinations thereof, including but not limited to.

Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon oils and waxes suitable for use in the present invention include petroleum jelly, mineral oil, microcrystalline wax, polyalkene, paraffin, cerasin, wax, polyethylene, perhydrosqualene, poly alpha olefin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and And combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils suitable for use in the present invention include dimethicone copolyols, dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, mixed C1-C30 alkyl polysiloxanes, phenyl dimethicone, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof. Can be. Preferred are nonvolatile silicones selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, mixed C1-C30 alkyl polysiloxanes, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils useful in the present invention are described in US Pat. No. 5,011,681 (Ciotti et al.).

Non-limiting examples of diglycerides and triglycerides suitable for use in the present invention include castor oil, soybean oil, derived soybean oil, such as maleated soybean oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, walnut oil, peanut oil, Olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil and sesame oil, vegetable oil, sunflower seed oil and vegetable oil derivatives; Coconut oil and derivatized coconut oil, cottonseed oil and derivatized cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, and combinations thereof. Also suitable are any of the above oils, partially or fully hydrogenated.

Non-limiting examples of acetoglyceride esters suitable for use in the present invention include acetylated monoglycerides.

Non-limiting examples of alkyl esters suitable for use in the present invention include isopropyl esters of fatty acids and long chain esters of long chain fatty acids such as SEFA (sucrose ester of fatty acids). Non-limiting examples of lauryl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, pentaerythritol ester, aromatic mono, die or tryster, cetyl ricinoleate include isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl liconoleate and stearyl Lyconoleate. Other examples are hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, isohexyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl adiate Pate, diisohexyl adipate, dihexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, acyl isononanoate lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of alkenyl esters suitable for use in the present invention include oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of lanolin and lanolin derivatives suitable for use in the present invention include lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acid, isopropyl lanoleate, acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol, lanolin alcohol linoleate, Lanolin alcohol liconoleate, hydroxylated lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, and combinations thereof.

Still other suitable oils include milk triglycerides (eg hydroxylated milk glycerides) and polyol fatty acid polyesters.

Still other suitable oils include wax esters, including but not limited to beeswax and beeswax derivatives, mercury, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, and combinations thereof. Also useful are vegetable waxes such as carnauba and candelilla waxes; Sterols such as cholesterol, cholesterol fatty acid esters; And phospholipids such as lecithin and derivatives, sphingolipids, ceramides, glycosphingolipids, and combinations thereof.

stabilizator

Rinseable skin conditioning compositions of the invention generally contain from about 0.1% to about 10% stabilizer, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% stabilizer, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% stabilizer. . Preferred stabilizers are those which increase the surface tension of water as measured by standard surface tensioning devices and methods known to those skilled in the art, for example by the method of ASTM D1331-89 (2001) Method A, Surface Tension. Any stabilizer that reduces to 60 mN / m or higher at < RTI ID = 0.0 > Preferred stabilizers exhibit a minimum surface tension in water of at least 60 mN / m. Suitable stabilizers enhance the stability of oil-in-water emulsions by inhibiting coalescence of oil droplets and / or inhibiting phase separation of oil and water phases.

Some suitable stabilizers include Pemulen TR-1 (acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer-Noveon), Pemulen TR-2 (acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer -Noveon), ETD 2020 (acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer-Noveon), Carbopol 1382 (acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer-Noveon), Natrosol CS Plus 330, 430, Polysurf 67 (Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose-Hercules), Aculyn 22 (acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer- Rohm & Haas, Aculine 25 (Acrylate / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer-Rohm & Haas), Aculine 28 (Acrylate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer-Rohm & Haas ), Aculin 46 (Peg-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer-Rom & Haas) Stabile n) 30 (acrylate / vinyl isodecanoate-3V), Structure 2001 (acrylate / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer-National Starch), structure 3001 (acrylate / Setetsu-20 Itaconate Copolymer-National Starch), Structure Plus (Acrylate / Aminoacrylate / C10-30 Alkyl Peg 20 Itaconate Copolymer-National Starch), Quatrisoft LM -200 (Polyquaternium-24), metal oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium, polycarbonate, polyether, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene , Polyamides, polyacrylates, cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.

Cyclodextrins are dissolved, water soluble, non-complexed cyclodextrins. As used herein, the term “cyclodextrin” refers to any known cyclodextrin, in particular alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamma-cyclo, such as an unsubstituted cyclodextrin comprising 6 to 12 glucose units. Dextrins and / or derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof.

Examples of preferred water soluble cyclodextrin derivatives suitable for use in the present invention include hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, methylated alpha-cyclodextrin, methylated beta-cyclodextrin, hydroxyethyl beta-cyclodextrin, and hydroxypropyl beta-cyclo There is dextrin.

Preference is also given to using mixtures of cyclodextrins. Such mixtures can form complexes with a wider range of perfume molecules having a wider range of molecular sizes. Preferably at least some of the cyclodextrins are alpha-cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof, gamma-cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof, and / or induced beta-cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cyclodextrins for use in the present invention are alpha cyclodextrins, beta cyclodextrins, hydroxypropyl alpha cyclodextrins, hydroxypropyl beta cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.

water

Rinseable skin conditioning compositions of the invention generally contain from about 9.5% to about 79.5% water.

enjoyment

Preferred compositions of the invention may optionally contain perfume. Suitable perfumes are known to those skilled in the cosmetic and perfumery arts. Perfume, if present, may be added to the composition according to the invention via conventional methods. When added via conventional methods, the perfume component may be added in an amount of about 0% to about 2% with respect to the total composition.

Particular preference is given to adding perfume via a HIP emulsion. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the fragrance incorporated through the HIP emulsion is deposited on the skin at a higher rate. Thus, these perfumes can provide a longer lasting scent to the compositions of the present invention and thus provide a more pleasant experience for the consumer. Perfume containing HIP emulsions are prepared as described above and stabilized with the stabilizers listed previously. Upon incorporation via separate HIP emulsions, the HIP emulsions are formulated with from about 20% to about 70% of fragrance based on the weight of the HIP emulsion. It is often advantageous to include cyclodextrins in high internal phase emulsion fragrances because they can provide the skin with a long lasting aroma. The total concentration of perfume in the total composition is from 0% to about 2% regardless of the method of incorporation.

Gel network

The skin conditioning composition of the present invention may contain a gel network. Gel networks include cationic surfactants, solid fatty compounds and water. Gel networks generally have a viscosity of about 0.5 Pa.s (5,000 cp) to about 4 Pa.s (40,000 cp), preferably about 1, as measured at 250 ° C. at a shear rate of 1.0 rpm with a Brookfield viscometer. Pa.s (10,000 cp) to about 3 Pa.s (30,000 cp), more preferably about 1.2 Pa.s (12,000 cp) to about 2.8 Pa.s (28,000 cp). Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the gel network significantly improves the deposition of conditioning and / or other skin protectants onto the skin.

In a highly preferred embodiment, the gel network is a lamellar gel network, which provides improved skin feel, spreadability of the composition and other substantial effects. In general, preferred cationic surfactants in the layered gel network include one or two long chain (eg C12-30) alkyl groups, and tertiary or quaternary amino groups. Preference is given to tertiary amino groups having one or two C16-22 alkyl chains.

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include: materials having a CTFA name of quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof Can be mentioned.

Some preferred cationic surfactants include at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons in the molecule.

Non-limiting examples of such preferred cationic surfactants are dioleoylethyl hydroxythymonium methosulfate, such as Croda under the tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80, and Sanyo Kasei Behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride available under the trade name ECONOL TM22 from Osaka, Japan; Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hydrogenated tallowalkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18) dirnetyl ammonium chloride, available for example from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo, Japan) under trade name CA-2350, Ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dirnetyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dirnetyl ammonium chloride, disetyl dirnetyl ammonium chloride, di (behenyl / arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, Dibenhenyldimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dirnetyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearyl propylene glycol phosphate dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl amidopropyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl arnipropylpropyldirnetyl (myristyl Acetate) cancer Chloride, and N- (stearoyl one Kolar Nino formyl methyl) pyridinium chloride may be mentioned.

Also preferred as cationic surfactants are cationic surfactants substituted such that at least one of the substituents is hydrophilic comprising at least one aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moiety present as a substituent or bond in the radical chain, Wherein at least one of the RI ″ -R ′ 04 radicals is alkoxy (preferably C, _C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C1_C3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylesters and their One or more hydrophilic moieties selected from combinations Preferably, the cationic surfactant substituted to be hydrophilic includes from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophilic moieties within the above range. Non-limiting examples of optionally substituted cationic surfactants include: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium -27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium -70, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolysis Keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-80, quaternium-81, quaternium- Materials having a CTFA name of 82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84, and mixtures thereof.

Cationic surfactants substituted to be highly preferred hydrophilic are, for example, VARISOFT 110, VARISoft 222, VARIQUAT from Witco Chemicals (Greenwich, CT). K1215 and Barriquet 638, McIntyre to MacPyro KLP, MacPyro WLK Macpro MLP, Macpro NSP, MacPyro NLW, MacPyro WWP, McPyro NLP, McPyro SLP, Akzo From Akzo from ETHOQUAD 18/25, etoquad 0 / 12PG, etoquad C / 25, etoquad S / 25, and etoduquad, Henkel (Germany) Dialkylarnido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, commercially available from DEHYQUAT SP, and ICI Americas (Wilmington, Delaware, USA) under the tradename ATLAS G265. Dialkylamidoethyl Dimonium Salts, Di Kill five days ethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium salts, peptidase imonium salt to dialkyl oil, and mixtures thereof.

Salts of primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants. The alkyl group of such amines preferably has about to about 22 carbon atoms and may be substituted or unsubstituted.

Especially useful are amido substituted tertiary fatty amines. Such amines useful in the present invention are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmit Palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, Palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, Palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, Behenamidopropyldimethylamine, Behenamidopropyldiethylamine, Behenamidoethyldiethylamine , Behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and diethylamino Ethyl stearamide.

Also useful are dimethyl stearamine, dimethylsoiamine, soiamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallow propane diamine, stearyl ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) Amines, dihydroxyethylstearylamines, and arachidylbehenylamines. Such amines are generally combined with acids to provide cationic species. Preferred acids useful in the present invention include L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, L-aspartic acid and mixtures thereof; More preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.

Fatty alcohol compounds and cationic surfactants are from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10, by weight of the total composition in the present skin conditioning composition. It is contained at the level of%.

Fatty alcohols useful in the present invention are those having from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. Such fatty alcohols are saturated and may be straight or branched chain alcohols.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acids useful in the present invention are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. Such fatty acids are saturated and may be straight or branched acid. Also included are diacids, triacids and other polyacids that meet the requirements of the present invention.

In the present invention, salts of the fatty acids are also included. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid and mixtures thereof.

Preference is given to solid fatty compounds of a single compound of high purity.

Highly preferred is a single compound of pure fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. By “pure” is meant herein the purity of the compound is at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%. Such high purity single compounds can provide good rinsing from the skin when the consumer rinses the composition.

Solid fat compounds useful and commercially available in the present invention are available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and are available under the trade names KONOL series or NOF (Tokyo, Japan). Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol under the trade name NAA series; Available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan) and pure behenyl alcohol under the trademark 1-DOCOSANOL, Akzo (Chicago, Illinois, USA) under the trade name Neo-Pat. FAT), available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA) and under the trade name HYSTRENE, or from Vevy (Genova, Italy), under the trade name Derma ( DERMA) and various fatty acids.

Although poly fatty alcohols can form a gel network, mono fatty alcohols are preferred. In forming the gel network, the cationic surfactant and / or solid fatty compound may first be mixed with water and / or suspended in water and / or dissolved in water.

Deposition Efficiency:

The composition of the present invention is at least about 2%, preferably from about 3% to about 40%, more preferably from about 4% to about 30%, most preferably from about 4% to about 20, based on the weight of the total composition A skin conditioning agent or skin protectant is deposited on the skin at a deposition efficiency (DE) of%, where DE = [ _after W-W ₀ ] / [ _before W-W ₀ ] x 100. Deposition efficiency is determined using the following method.

The following test methods are used to determine the level of deposition of skin conditioning agents and other optional skin protectants.

A clean 0.07 mm (3 mil) thick polyethylene sheet is cut to 21.5 cm x 32.0 cm. Ethanol is sprayed on both sides of the sheet and both sides of the sheet are wiped off with a paper towel and left to dry for several hours. The initial weight of each sheet is measured using a 4-digit analytical balance and recorded as W ₀ .

A grooved thick vinyl shelf cover piece (ie, a "groovy easy liner" for the shelf) was secured to a 25 x 33 cm (10 x 13 inch) plastic clipboard. The grooves are about 5 mm wide, spaced about 5 mm apart, about 1.6 mm thick, and the valleys are about 0.55 mm thick. The groove traverses the short direction of the clipboard and serves to provide the underlying texture.

One polyethylene sheet is attached to the clipboard using a clip and the sheet is placed on the bottom grooved plastic cover. One gram of rinsable skin conditioning composition is applied to the sheet and applied to the sheet by hand for 30 seconds to all edges of the sheet. Weigh the sheet again. Record this weight before W _before rinsing.

The sheet is rinsed for 30 seconds in warm water (37.7-40.5 ° C. (100-105 ° F)), allowing water to flow to the top edge of the sheet and down the length of the sheet. The flow rate of water is 210 to 230 ml / 10 seconds. The sheets are hung from one corner using clothespins and allowed to dry and dried overnight (eg, for more than 8 hours at 48.8 ° C. (120 ° F.) at 5% relative humidity). The sheet is weighed again the next day. Record this weight after rinsing with W _after.

The deposition efficiency is calculated as follows: Deposition efficiency = [W _after -W ₀ ] / [W _before -W ₀ ] x 100.

Rheological properties

The yield stress of the composition according to the invention is about 20 to about 200 Pa., More preferably about 30 to about 100 Pa., Even more preferably about 50 to about 90 Pa. In addition, the preferred composition has a viscosity of about 0.1 Pa.s (1,000 cP) to about 2 Pa.s (20,000 cP), preferably about 0.15 Pa.s (1,500 cP) to about 1 Pa.s (10,000 cP), even more preferably about 0.2 Pa. S (2,000 cP) to about 0.7 Pa.s (7,000 cP). Yield stress and viscosity can be measured using methods familiar to those skilled in the art as described below.

Yield Stress:

4 cm diameter parallel flat flow meter with a gap set to 1 mm, e.g. TA Instruments AR from TA Instruments-Waters LLC, New Castle, Delaware, USA 19720 A 2000 stress controlled flow meter is used. The composition is loaded at 25 ° C. onto the flowmeter base plate and the top plate is placed at a distance of 1 mm from the base plate to allow the composition to be included between the plates. Excess composition is removed to the edge of the plate with a spatula without disturbing the composition. Using a controller and computer (equipped with a flowmeter), the stress was applied on the sample from a starting value of 0.1 Pa to a final value of 1,000 Pa in a series of 50 steps per 10 stresses at a logarithmic increase rate over a total measurement time of 3 minutes. Program the flow meter to increase. Collect data as an electronic file for analysis. The yield stress is measured by first plotting the data as logarithmic stress / Pa versus logarithmic strain. The yield stress, or stress at which the product flow begins, is the point at which the data represents a transition from nonflow to flow, which is evident as a kink in the curve of logarithmic stress versus logarithmic strain. The data in the nonflow region is linearized by regression or by plotting a simple straight line through the nonflow data; The data in the flow region is linearized by regression or by plotting similar straight lines, determining the intersection of the linear regression line or straight line as yield stress. In preferred products, the present composition demonstrates a clear yield stress as a sharp break in the data curve at yield stress because the composition changes rapidly from non-flow to flow as the stress increases. For compositions that do not exhibit yield stress by this method, the yield stress is taken to be a low value, ie less than 1 Pa or even 0 Pa for fluids such as Newtonian fluids.

Viscosity:

To determine the viscosity of the composition, the same data obtained above is plotted as viscosity (centipoise, or cP) versus shear rate (inverse of seconds or s ⁻¹ ). The viscosity at a shear rate of 100 s ⁻¹ is readily determined by observation of the data and can be interpolated from the viscosity-shear rate data if necessary. If the shear rate in this test does not reach a shear rate of 100 s ^-1 even at the highest stress, the composition is subjected to the same measurement time per 10 stresses (1 minute per 10 stresses) until a sufficiently large shear rate is obtained. Retest with a larger stress range.

Optional ingredients

The skin conditioning composition of the present invention may further contain other optional ingredients that can modify the physical, chemical, cosmetic or aesthetic properties of the composition or act as additional active ingredients upon deposition on the skin. The composition may also further contain optional inert ingredients. Many such optional ingredients are known for use in personal care compositions and may also be used in the skin conditioning compositions of the present invention if such optional materials are compatible with the essential ingredients disclosed herein or do not unduly impair the performance of the product. .

Rinseable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention may optionally contain from about 0.1% to about 0.75% of conventional preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservatives that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, DMDM hydantoin, methylchloroisothiaoline, methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid Sodium, and benzoic acid. EDTA and its salts are often used to further improve shelf life.

Such optional ingredients are most commonly described in CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association, Inc. 1988, 1992] and is a licensed substance for use in cosmetics. Such optional materials may be used in any aspect of the compositions of the present invention.

Additional optional ingredients may include synthetic or natural clays (silicates) and are used to provide phase stability at high temperatures. An example of synthetic clay is Laponite, which is a layered synthetic silicate of 0.05 to 2%, most preferably 0.075 to 1.0%. Also useful are magnesium aluminum silicate clays such as Gelwhite MAS and natural clays such as bentonite, the name of which is Gelwhite L. Both Gelwhite MAS and Gelwhite L are useful in the range from 0.1 to 1%, most preferably from 0.2 to 0.5%.

Other optional ingredients include silicone elastomer powders and fluids to provide any of a variety of product benefits, including improved product stability, cosmetics for application, softening, conditioning, and the like. The concentration of silicone elastomer in the composition preferably ranges from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of the composition. Here, the weight percentages are based on the weight of the silicone elastomer material itself, excluding any silicone-containing fluids typically involved in such silicone elastomer materials in the preparation process. Silicone elastomers suitable for selective use in the present invention include emulsified and non-emulsified silicone elastomers, non-limiting examples of which are disclosed in US Patent Application Serial No. 09 / 613,266, assigned to Procter & Gamble Company.

Skin protectant

The skin conditioning composition of the present invention may optionally further contain a skin protectant suitable for use on the skin or otherwise compatible with other selected components of the composition. Skin protectants can be blended with the oils described above and can be contained as part of the main high phase emulsion. In this case the oil serves as a carrier of the skin protectant. Skin protectants may also be contained as part of an individual high internal phase emulsion. The skin protectant may be contained as an additive ingredient that is not part of the high internal phase emulsion premix.

Non-limiting examples of skin protectants suitable for use in the present invention are described in The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992), which includes a wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry. And these components are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of such skin protectants include abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic ingredients such as perfumes, pigments, coloring / coloring agents, essential oils, skin sensitizers, astringents and the like (e.g. clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, Menthyl lactate, gourd distillate), anti acne, anticaking agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g. iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, drug astringents, external analgesics , Opacifiers, pH adjusters, skin bleaching and whitening agents (e.g. hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), skin conditioning and / or moisturizers, ie glycerin, skin soothing and / or Or healing agents (e.g. panthenol and derivatives (e.g. ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, pantothenic acid and derivatives thereof, allantoin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyridine Agent), retinoids (e.g., retinol palmitate may be mentioned), tocopheryl nicotinate, skin treatment agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof. However, in any embodiment of the present invention, active agents useful in the present invention may be classified by the effect they provide or the mode of action required. However, it should be understood that the active agents useful in the present invention in some cases provide one or more benefits or operate through one or more modes of action. Therefore, classifications herein are for convenience and are not intended to limit the active to the specific use (s) listed. Skin protectants are further described in detail below.

A) Peeling Activator

Skin protectants for use in the present invention may include exfoliating actives, preferred concentrations of which are from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to non-surfactant-based actives based on the weight of the composition About 5%, even more preferably about 0.5% to about 4% and about 0.1% to about 3%, more preferably about 0.2% to about 3%, even more preferably about surfactant containing active agent From 0.5% to about 3%. Peeling actives enhance the benefits of the skin appearance of the present invention. Peeling actives, for example, tend to improve skin texture (eg, smoothness). One stripping system suitable for use in the present invention includes sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in Bissett, US Pat. No. 5,681,852.

Other stripping systems suitable for use in the present invention include salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and are described in Bisset, US Pat. No. 5,652,228.

B) anti-acne actives

Skin protectants for use in the present invention may also include anti-acne actives, the preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 1% to about 20% by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of anti-acne actives suitable for use in the present invention include resorcinol, sulfur, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, zinc, and other similar materials.

Other non-limiting examples of anti-acne actives suitable for use in the present invention are described in US Pat. No. 5,607,980 to McAtee et al., The disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.

C) Anti-Wrinkle Actives / Atrophy Actives

Skin protectants for use in the present invention include anti-wrinkle actives or anti-atrophy actives, including sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, in particular N-acetyl derivatives, examples of which are N-acetyl -L-cysteine; Thiols such as ethane thiol; Hydroxy acids (eg alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic and glycolic acids or beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives such as octanoyl derivatives), phytic acid, lipoic acid; Lysophosphatidic acid, and skin dermabrasives (such as phenol). Also suitable are niacinamides.

The hydroxy acids as skin protectants in the present invention include salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, and the preferred concentration thereof is about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferred based on the weight of the composition. Preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%.

Other non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle actives suitable for use in the present invention are described in US Pat. No. 6,217,888 to Oblong et al.

D) antioxidant / radical scavenger

Skin protectants for use in the present invention may also include antioxidants or radical scavengers, preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. .

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants or radical scavengers for use in the present invention include ascorbic acid and salts thereof, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbic acid). Corbyl sorbate), tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acid and salts thereof, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid Trolox (available under Trorol®), gallic acid and alkyl esters thereof, in particular propyl gallate, uric acid and salts thereof and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and salts thereof, lipoic acid, amines (e.g. N, N Diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g. glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and salts thereof, lysine pydolate, Leginine pioleate, nordihydroguaiatic acid, bioflavonoids, curcumin, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extract, grape skin / seed extract, melanin and rosemary extract. These may also be used.

E) Chelating Agent

Skin protectants for use in the present invention may also include chelating agents. As used herein, the term “chelating agent” or “chelating agent” removes metal ions from the system by the formation of complexes such that the metal ions cannot readily participate in the chemical reaction or cannot catalyze the chemical reaction. It shows a skin protectant.

Chelating agents for use as skin protectants in the present invention are preferably formulated at concentrations ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable chelating agents include US Pat. No. 5,487,884 to Biset et al. On January 30, 1996; International Patent Publication No. 91/16035 to Bush et al., Published October 31, 1995; And International Patent Publication No. 91/16034 to Bush et al., Published October 31, 1995.

Preferred chelating agents for use in the active phase of the compositions of the present invention include furyldioxime, furylmonoxime, and derivatives thereof.

F) flavonoids

Skin protectants for use in the present invention include flavonoid compounds suitable for use in hair or skin, the preferred concentration of which is from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10, based on the weight of the composition. %, More preferably about 0.5% to about 5%.

Non-limiting examples of flavonoid compounds suitable for use as skin protectants are selected from flavanones such as unsubstituted flavanones, monosubstituted flavanones and mixtures thereof, unsubstituted chalcones, monosubstituted chalcones, disubstituted chalcones, trisubstituted chalcones and mixtures thereof. Flavones selected from chalcones, unsubstituted flavones, monosubstituted flavones, disubstituted flavones and mixtures thereof, at least one isoflavone, unsubstituted coumarins, monosubstituted coumarins, dimethyl substituted coumarins, coumarins, unsubstituted chromones, and mixtures thereof Chromones selected from substituted chromones, disubstituted chromones and mixtures thereof, one or more dicumarols, one or more chromanones, one or more chromanols, isomers thereof (e.g. cis / trans isomers) and mixtures thereof Can be. The term "substituted" as used herein means a flavonoid in which one or more hydrogen atoms of the flavonoids are independently replaced by hydroxyl, C1-C8 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy, O-glycoside, or the like, or mixtures of such substituents. .

Examples of suitable flavonoids include unsubstituted flavanones, mono-hydroxy flavanones (eg, 2'-hydroxy flavanones, 6-hydroxy flavanones, 7-hydroxy flavanones, etc.), mono-alkoxy flavanones (Eg, 5-methoxy flavanone, 6-methoxy flavanone, 7-methoxy flavanone, 4'-methoxy flavanone, etc.), unsubstituted chalcones (especially unsubstituted trans-chalcones), mono- Hydroxy chalcones (eg, 2′-hydroxy chalcones, 4′-hydroxy chalcones, etc.), dihydroxy chalcones (eg, 2 ′, 4-dihydroxy chalcones, 2 ′, 4′-die Hydroxy chalcone, 2,2'-dihydroxy chalcone, 2 ', 3-dihydroxy chalcone, 2', 5'-dihydroxy chalcone, etc., trihydroxy chalcone (eg, 2 ', 3) ', 4'-trihydroxy chalcone, 4,2', 4'-trihydroxy chalcone, 2,2 ', 4'-trihydroxy chalcone, etc.), unsubstituted flavone, 7,2'-dihydroxy Flavones, 3 ', 4'- Dihydroxy naphthoflavones, 4'-hydroxy flavones, 5,6-benzoflavones, 7,8-benzoflavones, unsubstituted isoflavones, dydzein (7,4'-dihydroxy isoflavones), 5 , 7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy isoflavone, soy isoflavone (mixed from soybean), unsubstituted coumarin, 4-hydroxy coumarin, 7-hydroxy coumarin, 6-hydroxy-4-methyl Coumarins, unsubstituted chromones, 3-formyl chromones, 3-formyl-6-isopropyl chromones, unsubstituted dicoumalol, unsubstituted chromanone, unsubstituted chromanol and mixtures thereof, although these It is not limited to.

Preferred among these flavonoid compounds are unsubstituted flavanones, methoxy flavanones, unsubstituted chalcones, 2 ', 4-dihydroxy chalcones, isoflavones, flavones, and mixtures thereof, more preferably soy isoflavones.

Other non-limiting examples of flavanoid compounds suitable for use as skin protectants in the present invention are described in US Pat. Nos. 5,686,082 and 5,686,367.

G) anti-inflammatory

Skin protectants for use in the compositions of the present invention may also include anti-inflammatory agents, preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of steroidal anti-inflammatory agents suitable for use in the invention include hydrocortisone, hydroxytriamcinolone, alpha-methyl dexamethasone, dexamethasone-phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionate, clobetasol valerate, desonide, Desoxymethasone, desoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortone valerate, fluaderonone, fluchlororon acetonide, fludrocortisone, flumethasone pival Latex, fluorinolone acetonide, fluorosinide, flucortin butyl ester, fluorocorto , Flufrednidene (fluprodenylidene) acetate, fluandrenoneron, hacinonoid, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, methylprodisonone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, cortodoxone, flucetonide, flude Locotisone, difluoroson diacetate, fluadrenolone, fludrocortisone, difluroson diacetate, fludrenolone acetonide, medridone, amcinofel, amcinafide, betamethasone and the remainder of its esters, chloro Prodnisone, chlorprednisone acetate, clocortone, cresinone, dichlorisone, difluredonate, fluchloronide, flunisonide, fluoromethalone, fluferronone, fluprednisone, hydro Cortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, Prednisone, include a parameter hand, Fred you essay, prednisone, Beck a meta hand die propionate, tri suggests noron, and mixtures thereof, and they may be used. Preferred steroid anti-inflammatory agents for use are hydrocortisone.

Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents are also suitable for use in the present invention as skin protectants in the active phase of the composition. Non-limiting examples of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents suitable for use in the present invention include oxycams (eg, pyricampam, isoxicam, tenoxycam, sudoxicam, CP14,304); Salicylates (e.g. aspirin, dissalside, benolylate, trilysate, sapaprin, solphrine, diflunisal, pendosal); Acetic acid derivatives (e.g. diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmethin, isoxepac, furofenac, thiopinac, zidomethacin, acematashin, pentiazac, jomepilac, Clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac, ketorolac); Phenamate (eg mephenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic, niflumic, tolfenacic acid); Propionic acid derivatives (e.g. ibuprofen, naproxen, venoxapropene, flubiprofen, ketopropene, phenopropene, fenbufen, indopropene, pyrpropene, caprophene, oxaprozin, pranopropene , Myroprofen, thioxapropene, suprofen, aminopropene, thiapropenic); Pyrazoles (for example phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, peprazone, azapropazone, trimetazone); And combinations thereof and any salts or esters thereof that are dermatologically acceptable.

Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-inflammatory or other similar skin protectants include candelilla wax, bis-abolol (e.g. alpha bis-abolol), aloe vera, phytosterols (e.g. phytosterols), Manjistha (Magni) Plants of the genus Rubia, in particular Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (plants of the genus Commiphora, in particular from Comiphora Mukul), cola extracts, chamomiles, Red shamrock extract, whip coral extract, and combinations thereof.

Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-inflammatory or other similar skin protectants include the genus / species of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) including glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyric acid and derivatives thereof (eg salts and esters). Plants) and (family) compounds. Suitable salts of the foregoing compounds include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include C ₂ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ saturated or unsaturated esters of acids. Specific non-limiting examples of those described above include oil-soluble licorice extract, glycyrrhizinic acid and glycyrrhitic acid itself, monoammonium glycyrizinate, monopotassium glycyrizinate, dipotassium glycyrizinate, 1-beta-glycileic acid, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and 3-stearyloxy-glycitinic acid, disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glyciretinate, and combinations thereof.

H) anti-cellulite

Skin protectants for use in the compositions of the present invention include anti-cellulite agents, including, but not limited to, xanthine compounds such as caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, aminophylline and combinations thereof.

I) local anesthetics

Skin protectants for use in the present invention include local anesthetics, non-limiting examples of which are benzocaine, lidocaine, bufivacaine, cloprocaine, dibucaine, ethidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, diclo Nin, hexylcaine, procaine, ketamine, pramoxin, phenol, pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

J) Tanning Activator

Skin protectants for use in the present invention include tanning actives with preferred concentrations ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of such tanning agents include dihydroxyacetone, also known as DHA or 1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone.

K) skin whitening agent

Skin protectants for use in the present invention may include a skin lightening agent, the preferred concentration thereof being from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, more preferably based on the weight of the composition From about 0.5% to about 2%. Non-limiting examples of skin whitening agents suitable for use in the present invention include kojic acid, albutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof (eg magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate), and extracts (eg mulberry extract, Placental extract) as well as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening agents suitable for use in the present invention include those described in WO 95/34280, WO 95/07432, and WO 95/23780.

L) Skin Soothing and Skin Healing Actives

Skin protectants for use in the present invention include skin calming and skin healing actives, the preferred concentrations of which are from about 0.1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 20%, even more, based on the weight of the composition. Preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%. Non-limiting examples of skin soothing or skin healing actives suitable for use in the present invention include panthenic acid derivatives (e.g., panthenol, dexpantenol, ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, allantoin, bisavaolol and dipotassium glycyridge Nate can be mentioned.

M) antimicrobial actives

Skin protectants for use in the compositions of the present invention may include an antimicrobial active agent whose preferred concentration is from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably based on the weight of the composition More preferably about 0.05% to about 2%.

Non-limiting examples of antimicrobial active agents for use in the present invention include beta-lactam drugs, quinolone, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro- 2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorovanylide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin , Ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, linenemycin, metacycline, metheneamine, minocycline, neomycin, netylmycin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, myconazole Tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estholate, Rithromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydro Chloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, linenemycin hydrochloride, methacycline hydrochloride, metheneamine hypofurlate, metheneamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netylmycin sulfate, paromomycin Sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, myconazole hydrochloride, ke Taconazole, amanpadin hydrochloride, amanpadin sulfate, octopyrrox, parachlorometha xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione, clotrimazole and combinations thereof.

N) Sunscreen Actives

Skin protectants for use in the present invention may include sunscreen actives that are organic or inorganic sunscreen actives. Among the inorganic sunscreens useful in the present invention are metal oxides such as titanium dioxide having an average primary particle size of about 15 nm to about 100 nm, zinc oxide having an average primary particle size of 15 nm to about 150 nm, having an average primary particle size Zirconium oxide of about 15 nm to about 150 nm, iron oxide having an average primary particle size of about 15 nm to about 500 nm and mixtures thereof.

The concentration of sunscreen actives for use in the compositions is preferably in the range of about 0.1% to about 20%, more generally in the range of about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of the composition. The exact amount of such sunscreen active will depend on the sunscreen (s) selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).

A wide variety of conventional organic sunscreen activators are also suitable for use in the present invention including, but not limited to, p-aminobenzoic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); Anthranilates (ie o-amino-benzoate; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terfinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); Salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-propylene glycol esters); Cinnamic acid derivatives (mentyl and benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate); Dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); Trihydroxy-cinnamic acid derivatives (esculletin, methylesculletin, daphnetine, and glucosides, esculin and daphnin); Hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); Dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; Naphtholsulfonate (sodium salt of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid); Di-hydroxynaphthoic acid and salts thereof; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; Coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); Diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); Quinine salts (bisulfates, sulfates, chlorides, oleates and tannates); Quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salt, 2-phenylquinoline); Hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; Uric acid and violet acid; Tannic acid and its derivatives (for example hexaethyl ether); (Butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; Hydroquinone; Benzophenone (oxybenzene, sulfisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2,4,4-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2-dihydroxy-4,4-dimethoxybenzo Phenone, octabenzone; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; octocrylene; [3- (4-methylbenzylidene bornan-2-one), terephthalylidene dicam Forsulfonic acid and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane Preferred of these sunscreens are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PASOL MCX), 4,4 t -butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (available as parsol 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2 -Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4- (bis (hydroxy-propyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-dipe Acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-salicylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexyl salicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or amino Benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, octo Kylene and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of other sunscreen actives suitable for use in the present invention include US Pat. No. 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on June 26, 1990 and Sabatelli and Spirnac on March 12, 1991 ( And US Pat. No. 4,999,186 to Spirnak. Preferred among the sunscreen actives described are 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid esters of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) -methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; And N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred sunscreen actives include 4,4-t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene.

O) visible skin enhancers

Skin protectants for use in the compositions of the present invention may include a visible skin enhancer. They mask components of any number of defects on the skin such as blotch, fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes, and the like, and include components including but not limited to titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxide. Also suitable for use in the present invention are organic particulates that emit light upon deposition on the skin. Preferred concentrations of such components range from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, even more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight of the composition.

How to use

In addition, the present invention is:

(A) I. (i) oil,

(ii) stabilizers, and

(iii) at least one high internal phase emulsion containing water;

II. Contains the rest of the substances that are conventional makeup and skin care ingredients,

Preparing a rinsable skin condition composition that is substantially free of surfactant;

(B) applying the product of step (A) to the wet skin of a human; And

(C) a method of using the skin conditioning composition of the present invention comprising the step of rinsing the product from the skin.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the efficacy of the present product can be combined with the ability of the consumer to understand the instructions and thus use the product. The included set of instructions may include written instructions for use as well as illustrations or examples of the applied product. Thus, the present invention also provides a skin conditioning and / or moisturizing effect to human skin when applied and rinsed during showering and / or bathing,

I. i) oil,

ii) stabilizers, and

iii) at least one high internal phase emulsion containing water;

II. Contains the rest of the substances that are conventional makeup and skin care ingredients,

A commercially available article comprising a container comprising a rinse-type skin conditioning composition substantially free of surfactant, wherein the container typically washes and rinses the skin, spreading the product onto the skin outside the flow of water and simply rinsing the towel. There are instructions for conditioning and moisturizing the skin, including instructions for patting lightly.

Manufacturing method

The skin conditioning composition of the present invention may be prepared by any known method or else effective technique suitable for making and formulating the desired product form. Specific non-limiting examples of such methods as applied to specific embodiments of the present invention are described in the following examples. For illustrative purposes only, a single product is prepared using two high internal phase emulsion premixes in the following suitable preparation method. Depending on the nature of the particular oil and stabilizer chosen, one of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that it may be necessary to make any changes to the manufacturing process. However, it is contemplated that one or any number of premixes can be made and mixed together to form the final product.

Oil premixes are prepared as follows:

1. Add water at ambient temperature to the vessel.

2. Add stabilizer to water.

3. Heat mix the stabilizer with the propeller blades to reach 85 ° C.

4. Continue mixing at 85 ° C. to allow the stabilizer to fully hydrate (viscosity increases as the stabilizer hydrates and then decreases upon hydration of the stabilizer—approximately 30 minutes).

5. Add oil in a separate vessel and heat mix at 85 ° C.

6. Slowly add oil to the water / stabilizer mixture and increase the speed of the propeller blades.

7. Continue mixing at 85 ° C. for 5 minutes.

8. Add a preservative to the mixture and reduce the temperature to 75 ° C.

Any number of oil premixes can be prepared as described above and used alone or in combination with other oil premixes in the final product. Skin protectants may also be included in the oil premix.

Main mixture of fatty alcohol gel network

9. Add ambient temperature water to the vessel.

10. Add stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and glutamic acid and stabilizer to water.

11. Heat mix the propeller blades to reach 85 ° C.

12. Continue mixing at 85 ° C. to allow the stabilizer to fully hydrate (viscosity increases as the stabilizer hydrates and then decreases upon hydration of the stabilizer—approximately 30 minutes).

13. Add fatty alcohol to the hot mixture and continue mixing to ensure complete dissolution of fatty alcohol.

14. Transfer to a high shear mixer for 5 minutes.

Add oil premix.

15. If necessary, cool the oil premix to 75 ° C. and pass it through a static mixer (or mill) to achieve the desired particle size and then add to the fatty alcohol gel network main mixture tank with stirring.

Optional ingredients, ie preservatives and flavorings, are added.

16. First add a solid preservative and then a liquid preservative.

17. Mix slowly to allow the entire batch to move.

18. Cool the mixture to 42 ° C. and add the remaining preservatives, perfumes and other conventional ingredients.

Continue mixing for 15 minutes.

The following examples illustrate and illustrate the invention in more detail within the scope of the invention. As many variations are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, the examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limitations of the invention. All illustrated amounts are concentrations based on the weight of the total composition, ie wt / wt percent, unless otherwise specified.

Each of the exemplified compositions provides improved cosmetic properties, including a reduction of greasy or sticky skin feel during and after application, and provides a skin conditioning agent delivered from each prepared composition and having improved deposition or effectiveness. .

While certain embodiments of the invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and changes can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all such changes and modifications falling within the scope of the invention be included in the appended claims.

Claims (8)

(a) (i) oil, (ii) stabilizers, and (iii) at least one high internal phase emulsion containing water, (b) contains the remainder of the balance of conventional makeup and skin care ingredients; Deposition Efficiency (DE) (where DE = [W _after -W ₀ ] / [W _before -W ₀ ] x 100) is at least 2%, has a viscosity of 1,000 cP to 20,000 cP and a yield stress of 20 Pa. A rinsable skin conditioning composition which is an oil-in-water emulsion further characterized by being from 200 Pa. The rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 1, wherein the fragrance is further present in the high internal phase emulsion incorporated into the fat gel network. The rinsable skin conditioning composition of claim 1, wherein the skin protectant is added to the oil phase of the emulsion. The method of claim 1, wherein the stabilizer is an acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate / lau Retsu-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate / behennets-25 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, acrylate / vinyl isodecanoate, acrylate / steareth- 20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylate / Setetsu-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylate / Aminoacrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ Alkyl PEG 20 Itaconate Copolymer, Polyquaternium-24, Titanium, Zinc , Iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium, metal oxides, polycarbonate, polyether, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, poly Rinse-prone skin conditioning composition, characterized in that is selected from amides, polyacrylates, cyclodextrins and the group consisting of a mixture thereof. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, (i) 20% to 90% by weight of oil; (ii) 0.1% to 10% by weight of stabilizer; (iii) 9.5% to 79.5% by weight of water; And (iv) a rinsable skin conditioning composition comprising from 0% to 2% by weight of fragrance. The oil according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil is hydrocarbon oil, wax, silicone, fatty acid derivative, cholesterol, cholesterol derivative, diglyceride, triglyceride, vegetable oil, vegetable oil derivative, acetoglyceride ester, alkyl ester, Rinsing skin conditioning composition, characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of alkenyl esters, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, sterols, phospholipids and mixtures thereof. It is further characterized by providing conditioning and moisturizing effect on human skin when applied and rinsed during shower or bath, A. 1) oil, 2) stabilizers, and 3) at least one high internal phase emulsion containing water; B. further comprising a rinse off skin conditioning composition characterized in that it contains the remainder of the substance as a conventional makeup and skin care ingredient, Including a container with instructions for conditioning and moisturizing the skin, including instructions for washing and rinsing the skin and spreading the product on the skin in the presence of water, simply rinsing and tapping with a towel. A commercial item further characterized. In the skin conditioning method, A. (1). (a) oil, (b) stabilizers, and (c) at least one high internal phase emulsion containing water, (2). Preparing a rinsable skin condition composition containing the remaining material as a conventional makeup and skin care component; B. applying the product of step 1 to the wet skin of a human; And C. further comprising rinsing the product from the skin.