KR20030034537A - Whitening cosmetic composition containing the extracts of Rooibos leaves - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A skin whitening cosmetic composition containing a Rooibos leaf extract having excellent skin whitening effects is provided. The Rooibos leaf extract shows excellent inhibition effect on tyrosinase and the composition containing the extract has excellent stability and skin safety as well as skin whitening effect. CONSTITUTION: The skin whitening cosmetic composition contains 1 to 15% by weight of a solvent extract of a Rooibos leaf. The extraction solvent is purified water, 1,3-butyleneglycol, propylene glycol, ethanol or a mixture thereof. The formulation of the composition is selected from the group consisting of skin lotion, milk lotion, emulsified cream, massage cream, essence, gel cream, a mask pack and nutritional emulsion.

Description

Whitening cosmetic composition containing the extracts of Rooibos leaves}

The present invention relates to a whitening cosmetic composition, and more particularly to a whitening cosmetic composition containing an extract of rooibos leaves.

In general, the blackening of the human skin may have various causes, but the main factor is that exposure to UV light increases and releases the synthesis of melanin in melanocytes, a kind of skin cells. It is known because. Looking specifically at the process of melanin synthesis in melanocytes, the enzyme tyrosinase (Tyrosinase) acts as a substrate in the cell tyrosine (Tyrosine), thereby producing dopaquinone (Dopaquinone) and spontaneous reaction from dopaquinone Copolymer black pigment melanin is produced through the enzymatic reaction. Therefore, in order to prevent skin blackening, it is general and easy to reduce the production of melanin by inhibiting some reactions during the production of melanin.

To this end, ascorbic acid (Ascorbic acid), kojic acid (Kojic acid), arbutin (Arbutin), hydroquinone (Hydroquinone), oil-soluble licorice extract (Licorice extract) and various plant extracts have been used. Of these, kojic acid chelates copper ions in the active site of tyrosinase and inhibits enzymatic activity.They have good performance, but are not suitable for use because they have problems in stability when formulated in cosmetics. Due to its high irritation, it is currently not used as a cosmetic due to safety issues.

In addition, research has been conducted to find whitening active ingredients among natural products, especially plants. Among them, many plant extracts and herbal extracts such as lettuce, licorice, peony, cinnamon, red ginseng, brown root, donkey, bark skin, halved, aloe, etc. Although it has been found that there is an agonist inhibitory activity, they also have a lot of problems in using above the effective concentration in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals in terms of safety, discoloration potential, etc., there was a limit that is not obvious in the whitening effect. In particular, most plant extracts have a tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect that is effective only at high concentrations, and has been pointed out as a problem that little inhibition effect occurs at low concentrations.

Therefore, research has been conducted on natural raw materials having excellent stability in cosmetic compositions and excellent skin whitening effect with little irritation to the skin. Thus, the present inventors solve the problems of conventional whitening raw materials, and more whitening effects. In order to find excellent raw materials, natural plant raw materials, especially rooibos were targeted.

The rooibos applied to the present invention is Aspalathus Linearis or Aspalathus Contaminatus and Borbona Pinifolia belonging to the legumes, and the slopes of the Cape of Good Hope mountain region in western South Africa are the main habitat. The plant rooibos looks like a shrub with a main stem with a soft bark in the middle, and grows in many branches from close to the surface of the soil, and thin, sharp, soft, needle-like leaves with thin and thin twigs around it. It is about 10 millimeters long, or hangs one by one. The height of this plant, which grows in nature, varies from 1 to 1.5 meters in height, and when grown and harvested, the height is about 0.5 to 1.5 meters depending on climate or soil conditions.

Rooibos leaves can help reduce insomnia, gastrointestinal illness, constipation, and allergy symptoms such as hay fever and asthma, and when used directly on infected areas, itching helps to soothe itching and to treat skin problems like eczema and acne. In particular, it contains a kind of enzyme called Superoxide Dismutase, an antioxidant that prevents skin damage from free radicals, and is used as a health food.

However, the whitening function of the rooibos leaf has not been known so far. Therefore, the present inventors have found that the rooibos leaf extract has an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity, thereby inhibiting melanin production, and thus whitening cosmetics containing the same. The composition was developed.

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a rooibos leaf extract excellent in whitening effect, in order to satisfy the interest in the whitening of the consumer even higher due to environmental pollution and ozone layer destruction.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing a rooibos leaf extract which is stably present in the cosmetic composition and has no skin irritation and is excellent in whitening effect.

Still other objects of the present invention will become apparent from the structures and examples of the present invention.

1 is a photograph showing the results of visually determining the melanocyte production inhibition rate of rooibos leaf extract using B-16 melanocytes.

Figure 2 is a graph showing the improvement effect of the pigmentation of rooibos leaf extract using brown guinea pigs.

The present invention provides a whitening cosmetic composition comprising a rooibos leaf extract.

In the present invention, the rooibos leaf extract is contained in about 1 to 15% by weight, preferably contained in about 10% by weight in the cosmetic composition. The rooibos leaf extract is mainly prepared by a solvent extraction method, wherein the solvent is selected from purified water or 1, 3-butylene glycol or propylene glycol or ethanol or mixtures thereof.

The present invention is to enhance the whitening function by applying the rooibos leaf extract extracted by the above method to the basic cosmetic composition, softening longevity (skin), nourishing longevity (milk lotion), emulsified cream, massage cream, essence, gel cream , Packs, nutrient fluids, and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. However, the following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention to the examples.

Example 1 Preparation of Rooibos Leaf Extract

Mix the appropriate amount of preservative with solvent 1.3-butylene glycol or propylene glycol or purified water or ethanol 500gr. Thereafter, it is sufficiently aged and then filtered through a filter paper (5C, 110 mm: Toyo Roshi Kaisha, Ltd. Japan) to obtain an extract.

Experimental Example 1 Melanin Production Inhibition Rate Experiment of Rooibos Leaf Extract

Hereinafter, the melanin production inhibition rate for the rooibos leaf extract of the present invention was tested.

The whitening effect of the rooibos leaf extract prepared in Example 1 was measured using B-16 melanoma cells (prepared Yonsei University Wonju Medical College). As a measuring method, B-16 melanoma cells derived from black mice were prepared in 96-well tissue culture medium (commercially available from Danish Nunc) in DMEM (commercially available from GIBCO, USA) containing 10% FBS (commercially available from GIBCO, USA). 2 mL of 2 x 10 ⁴ cells / well was added thereto and incubated for 24 hours under conditions of 5% CO ₂ and 37 ° C. After incubation, the medium was removed and replaced with DMEM containing 10% FBS, 2 u M α-MSH (Melanoocyte Stimulating Hormone sold by Sigma, USA) and 2 mM theophylline (available from Sigma, USA) Afterwards, the rooibos leaf extract was appropriately diluted with the same medium and added, and then cultured under 5% CO ₂ , 37 ° C. until the cells were at least about 80% at the bottom of the well. After incubation, the medium was removed, washed with PBS (Phosphate buffered Saline (commercially available from GIBCO, Inc.)) and treated with trypsin to recover cell pellets. The recovered pellets were transferred to an effendrof tube, centrifuged at 10000 rpm for 10 minutes, and the supernatant was removed. The pellet from which the supernatant was removed was dried at 60 ° C. After drying, 1N NaOH was added to the pellet to dissolve melanin in the cells. Dilute the appropriate melanin with PBS, measure the absorbance at 490 nm with ELISA reader (UV max, MOLECULAR DEVICES, USA), and control the melanin production inhibition rate of the rooibos leaf extract as a control without adding the rooibos leaf extract. It was measured (see Table 1). In addition, visual observation after photographing with a video microscope (see Fig. 1).

Melanin production inhibitory effect SAMPLE people Concentration (V / V%) Melanin production inhibition rate (%) Rooibos Leaf Extract 2 89 One 62 0.5 15 0.1 7

Through comparative experiments of Experimental Example 1 it can be seen that the rooibos leaf extract has an excellent whitening effect.

Experimental Example 2 Cytotoxicity Test of Rooibos Leaf Extract

The cytotoxicity test for the rooibos leaf extract and the original material of the present invention is shown in Experimental Example 2. To this end, a comparison of cytotoxicity was carried out on the rooibos leaf extract prepared in Example 1 and the arbutin and ascorbic acid, which are whitening raw materials used in the past.

Transformed mouse fibroblast L929 recovered by Trypsinization was suspended in DMEM containing 2% BCS and then cell suspension (2,500-3,000 cells / well) in each well of 96 well tissue culture medium. 100 ml was inoculated and then incubated under 5% CO ₂ , 37 ° C. for 2 days. After incubation, the medium was replaced with 90 μl of serum-free medium, and then 10 μl of the test substance was incubated for 2 days. After incubation, each well was added with a neutral red (Netural Red) solution (50 µg / ml) and reacted for 3 hours. Neutral Red is completely concentrated through the Plasma membrane and concentrated in lysosomes of live or intact cells, immobilized with 100 μl of 1.0% formalin / 1.0% CaCl ₂ , followed by 1.0% acetic acid / 50% ethanol solution. Intracellular neutral red was extracted. The extracted neutral red was measured for cytotoxicity by concentration at 540 nm using an ELISA reader (see Table 2).

Cytotoxicity Measurement Results Results: Cell survival rate (%) SAMPLE people Concentration (V / V%) NR ₅₀ One 0.1 0.01 0.001 Rooibos Leaf Extract 52 92 99 100 1 ↑ Arbutin 2 63 82 98 0.29 Ascorbic acid One 2 6 63 0.003

Through comparative experiments of Experimental Example 2 it was found that the NR ₅₀ value of the rooibos leaf extract is a very safe raw material higher than the conventional raw material.

Prescription examples containing the rooibos leaf extract of the present invention are shown in Prescription Examples 1-7.

Prescription Example 1

Prescription example of softening water (skin) among cosmetics containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract 1,3-butylene glycol glycerin oleyl alcohol polysorbate 20 ethanol preservative 10.002.003.002.001.006.00 Micro Trace Amount system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract.

Prescription Example 2

A prescription example of milk lotion among cosmetics containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract 1,3-butylene glycol glycerin oleyl alcohol polysorbate 20 preservative 10.004.003.000.501.00 Micro Trace Amount system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract.

Prescription Example 3

A prescription example of nourishing cream among cosmetics containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract propylene glycol glycerin triethanolamine tocopheryl acetate fluid paraffin squalane macadamia nut oil polysorbate 60 sorbitan sesquilate carboxyvinyl polymer preservative 10.005.005.000.501.005.005.0015.001.001.000.20 system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract is 1% by weight.

Prescription Example 4

A prescription example of a massage cream among cosmetics containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract Vaseline fluid paraffin wax wax polysorbate 60 sorbitan sesquilate propylene glycol glycerin preservative Trace amount under 10.005.0030.003.001.001.005.005.00 system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract is 1% by weight.

Prescription Example 5

A prescription example of a pack of cosmetics containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract 1,3-butylene glycol polyvinyl alcohol polyvinyl pyrrolidone ethanol polyvinylacetate preservative 10.005.0012.002.008.001.00 Balance system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract.

Prescription Example 6

A prescription example of an essence of a cosmetic containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract 1,3-butylene glycol glycerin triethanolamine carboxyvinyl polymer tantan gum preservative perfume 10.002.005.000.270.200.10 Micro Trace Balance system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract.

Prescription Example 7

A prescription example of nutritional fluid in cosmetics containing rooibos leaf extract is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Rooibos leaf extract 1,3-butylene glycol glycerin triethanolamine carboxyvinyl polymer tantan gum preservative perfume 10.003.005.000.270.200.10 Micro Trace Amount system 100.00

※ The content of rooibos leaf extract is 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract.

Comparative Examples 1 to 4 show the comparative examples applied to the whitening effect measurement and the real user test using the color difference meter of the present invention.

Comparative Example 1

The comparative example of the essence among the cosmetics containing arbutin is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Arbutin 1,3-butylene glycol glycerin triethanolamine carboxyvinyl polymer tantan gum preservative 1.002.005.000.270.200.10 Micro Trace Amount system 100.00

Comparative Example 2

The comparative example of the essence among the cosmetics containing ascorbic acid is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Ascorbic acid 1,3-butylene glycol glycerin triethanolamine carboxyvinyl polymer tantan gum preservative 1.002.005.000.270.200.10 Micro Trace Amount system 100.00

Comparative Example 3

The comparative example of the nutrient cream in the cosmetics containing arbutin is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Arbutin propylene glycol glycerin triethanol amine tocopheryl acetate liquid paraffin squalane macadamia nut oil polysorbate 60 sorbitan sesquilate carboxy vinyl polymer preservative 1.005.005.000.501.005.005.0015.001.001.000.20 system 100.00

Comparative Example 4

The comparative example of the nourishing cream among the cosmetics containing ascorbic acid is as follows.

ingredient Content (% by weight) Ascorbic acid propylene glycol glycerin triethanol amine tocopheryl acetate liquid paraffin squalane macadamia nut oil polysorbate 60 sorbitan sesquilate carboxy vinyl polymer preservative 1.005.005.000.501.005.005.0015.001.001.000.20 system 100.00

Experimental Example 3: Evaluation of the whitening effect

(1) Evaluation using color difference meter

The whitening effect of the cosmetic of the present invention was evaluated using a color difference meter (COLORIMETER CR-1000, MINOLTA, USA). As an evaluation method, the hair of brown guinea pigs (Tortoiseshell guinea pigs), which is the same as human skin, is epilated, and then ultraviolet rays (UVB) are irradiated with xenon lamps (wavelengths 290-400 nm) in a square size of 3 × 3 cm. The irradiation period shall be 1.25mW / cm ² and 6 minutes, once a day for 3 days. Thereafter, the cosmetics and the rooibos leaf extract of Formulation Example 6 were evaluated by applying an essence substituted with arbutin (Comparative Example 1) and ascorbic acid (Comparative Example 2). Application time was evaluated 14 days after the highest pigmentation after UV irradiation to evaluate the improvement effect. The number of application is applied continuously for 30 days once a day.

Evaluation by this color difference meter was mainly measured by (DELTA) L ^* value (lightness). The measurement formula is as follows and the experimental results are shown in FIG.

△ L ^* = L ^* value at the start of the coating - L ^* value after X days after application

Experimental results show that Formulation Example 6 has an early improvement effect of pigmentation compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

(2) Evaluation by actual use

In addition, the whitening effect of the cosmetic of the present invention was evaluated through a practical use test. Nutritional cream containing 10% by weight of rooibos leaf extract of Formulation Example 3 and a cream in which rooibos leaf extract in Formulation Example 3 were replaced with arbutin (Comparative Example 3) and ascorbic acid (Comparative Example 4) were used. Thirty women in their 30s and 50s were washed twice daily with the creams of Prescription 3 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4, and then the right amount of cream was applied to the face continuously for 2 months. Two months later, a visual evaluation was conducted. Judgment criteria (Table 3) and test results (Tables 4 and 5) are as follows.

Criteria Rating Whitening effect -++++++ Not very high Very high

Visual evaluation result I Unit: person +++ ++ + - Prescription Example 3 13 9 6 2 Comparative Example 3 10 7 8 5 Comparative Example 4 11 6 5 8

Visual Evaluation Results Ⅱ number age Skin condition Prescription Example 3 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Remarks One 33 NS +++ +++ +++ 2 36 OS +++ +++ +++ 3 36 NS +++ ++ + 4 38 OS +++ ++ + 5 31 NS +++ +++ +++ 6 34 DS ++ ++ +++ 7 37 OS + ++ ++ 8 43 DS ++ ++ + 9 42 NS ++ +++ +++ 10 39 OS +++ + - 11 48 DS +++ +++ +++ 12 44 NS + +++ ++ 13 53 OS ++ + + 14 44 NS ++ + - 15 54 DS +++ ++ +++ 16 34 DS + - - 17 35 OS ++ +++ +++ 18 30 DS +++ +++ ++ 19 42 DS ++ - - 20 38 OS +++ ++ +++ 21 50 DS + - - 22 48 NS +++ + - 23 32 OS +++ +++ +++ 24 54 OS - + - 25 56 NS - + ++ 26 33 DS +++ +++ +++ 27 32 NS + + ++ 28 51 DS ++ - + 29 43 OS ++ - - 30 42 NS + + ++ ※ OS: oily skin type, NS: normal skin type, DS: dry skin type

According to the above experimental results, it was proved that the present invention (prescription example 3) containing the rooibos leaf extract showed an increased whitening effect of 10-20% compared to the comparative examples 3 and 4.

As described above, the rooibos leaf extract of the present invention proved to be an excellent whitening raw material by showing an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity compared to the raw material having a conventional whitening function.

In addition, the rooibos leaf extract is an economical whitening raw material because it can be applied to the cosmetic field at a relatively low cost as well as very excellent skin safety as can be seen from the skin toxicity test results.

That is, the present invention provides an excellent whitening functional cosmetic composition having excellent whitening effect through the cosmetic composition including the rooibos leaf extract, as well as being able to stably exist in the cosmetic composition, without skin irritation.

Claims (4)

Whitening cosmetic composition, comprising 1 to 15% by weight of rooibos (Rooibos) leaf extract. The method of claim 1, Whitening cosmetic composition, characterized in that the rooibos leaf extract is prepared by solvent extraction of natural rooibos leaves. The method of claim 2, The solvent used for the solvent extraction is purified water or 1, 3-butylene glycol or propylene glycol or ethanol or a mixture thereof, characterized in that the rooibos leaf extract containing whitening cosmetic composition. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, Whitening rooibos leaf extract containing whitening, characterized in that the formulation of the composition is selected from the group consisting of softening (skin), nutrients (milk lotion), emulsified cream, massage cream, essence, gel cream, pack, nutrient solution Cosmetic composition.