KR20010029390A - Manufacturing of silk like polyester fabric having melange effect. - Google Patents

Manufacturing of silk like polyester fabric having melange effect. Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20010029390A
KR20010029390A KR1019990042166A KR19990042166A KR20010029390A KR 20010029390 A KR20010029390 A KR 20010029390A KR 1019990042166 A KR1019990042166 A KR 1019990042166A KR 19990042166 A KR19990042166 A KR 19990042166A KR 20010029390 A KR20010029390 A KR 20010029390A
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
fabric
polyester
yarn
weight
silk
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KR1019990042166A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100330249B1 (en
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김병일
이용석
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조민호
주식회사 휴비스
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/22—Clothing specially adapted for women, not otherwise provided for
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D13/00—Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
    • A41D13/0015—Sports garments other than provided for in groups A41D13/0007 - A41D13/088
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/12—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/18—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: A process for preparing the title fabric by weaving a cation dye dyeable polyester ultrafine fiber and yarn having a small fineness and different shrinkage is provided, which produces silk like polyester fabrics having elegant gloss and silk like touch and expressing melange effect at the same time. CONSTITUTION: This process comprises the steps of using copolymerized polyester multifilament yarn having a small fineness and different shrinkage as warp threads and cation dye dyeable polyester/polyamide composite yarn having a single yarn fineness of less than 0.3 as weft threads, weaving in such a manner that the total weight of the warp threads is 45 to 60wt.% based on the total weight of the fabric, and performing weight reduction process to be a weight reduction rate of 5 to 10wt.%.

Description

멜란지 효과가 우수한 견조(絹調) 폴리에스테르 직물의 제조방법{Manufacturing of silk like polyester fabric having melange effect.}Manufacturing method of silk polyester with excellent melange effect {Manufacturing of silk like polyester fabric having melange effect.}

본 발명은 세섬도의 공중합 이수축 폴리에스테르 멀티 필라멘트사와 카치온 염료 가염성 폴리에스테르/폴리아미드 복합 극세사를 이용하여 견과 같은 광택과 촉감 뿐 아니라 색상 차에 의한 멜란지 효과를 발현시키는 견조(絹調) 폴리에스테르 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention is a fine poly that expresses melange effect due to color difference as well as gloss and touch like silk by using co-shrink polyester multi-filament yarn and cationic dye-inflammable polyester / polyamide composite microfiber of fine fineness. It relates to a process for producing an ester fabric.

일반적으로 폴리에스테르 섬유는 우수한 기계적, 화학적 성질 때문에 의류용 및 산업용 섬유로서 널리 사용되고 있다.In general, polyester fibers are widely used as clothing and industrial fibers because of their excellent mechanical and chemical properties.

그러나 일반적으로 폴리에스테르 섬유는 염색성 뿐 아니라 표면의 평활성 때문에 아세테이트, 비스코스레이온, 견, 면, 양모에 비해 촉감이 월등하게 떨어진다는 단점을 지니고 있다.In general, however, polyester fibers have a disadvantage in that they are inferior in touch to acetate, viscose rayon, silk, cotton, and wool due to surface smoothness as well as dyeability.

또한 직물상에 색상 차를 발현시키는 멜란지 효과를 내기 위해서는 폴리에스테르 섬유와 천연섬유 및 반합성 섬유, 재생섬유 등의 교직을 이용하는 방법이 주종을 이루고 있으나 이 방법은 가공방법의 어려움과 제조 비용의 문제 뿐만 아니라 100% 합성섬유 직물 제조라는 목적에 위배 된다.In addition, in order to produce a melange effect to express the color difference on the fabric, the main method is to use polyester fiber, natural fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, recycled fiber, etc. It is also against the purpose of manufacturing 100% synthetic fiber fabrics.

또 종래에도 촉감 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 직물의 제조방법이 많이 발표되어 있지만, 가장 많은 방법들은 이수축 혼섬사를 이용하여 제조하는 방법이다.In addition, a number of methods for producing a polyester fabric having excellent touch and drape have been published in the past, but most of the methods are manufactured using biaxially blended blended yarns.

한국 특허공고 제 93-1194 호등을 비롯한 이수축 혼섬사를 이용하는 제조 방법들은 열수축차가 있는 두원사를 유체 교락 시켜서 이수축 혼섬사를 제조한 뒤 직물을 제조함으로서 천연 촉감과 우수한 드레이프성이 발현 되도록 하고 있다.Manufacturing methods using bishrink blended yarns, including Korean Patent Publication No. 93-1194, produce fluid by interlacing two yarns with heat shrinkage to produce bisquered blended yarns, thereby producing fabrics, resulting in natural touch and excellent drape. have.

그러나 이와 같은 방법은 표면의 평활성 때문에 미끈한 촉감이 동시에 발현 되므로 천연 촉감 발현에 장애가 될 뿐만 아니라 유체 교락에 의한 스트리키 현상이 표면에 발생하므로 외관을 해치게 된다.However, this method not only hinders the appearance of natural touch because the smooth touch is expressed at the same time because of the smoothness of the surface, and the streaks due to fluid entanglement occur on the surface, thereby deteriorating the appearance.

또한, 분할 후 단사 섬도가 0.3 데니어 이하가 되는 폴리에스테르/폴리아미드 복합 극세사를 사용하여 제조한 다수의 직물들은 피치스킨(peach skin) 촉감은 우수하지만, 견과 같은 우아한 광택과 멜란지 효과 등을 발현시키기는 어려웠다.In addition, many fabrics manufactured using polyester / polyamide composite microfiber yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.3 denier or less after splitting have excellent peach skin feel, but express an elegant luster like melange effect and a melange effect. Was difficult.

본 발명은 분할형 카치온 염료 가염성 폴리에스테르 극세사와 이수축 효과를 나타내는 세섬도 이수축사와의 복합을 통해 견과 같은 우아한 광택 및 촉감과 함께 멜란지 효과를 발현 시키는 견조폴리에스테르 직물의 제조방법을 제공하는데 목적을 둔 것이다.The present invention provides a method for producing a silk polyester fabric expressing a melange effect with elegant gloss and feel such as silk through a combination of a split type cationic dye-shrinkable polyester microfiber and a fine-grained sewage yarn that exhibits a shrinking effect. It is purpose.

본 발명을 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention is described in detail as follows.

먼저 경사로는 통상의 방법으로 제조한 공중합 세섬도 이수축 폴리에스테르 멀티 필라멘트사로서 단면 형태가 견과 비슷한 3각 단면 형태를 가지는 원사를 사용한다.First of all, the ramp is a copolymerized fine-grained bi-shrink polyester multifilament yarn manufactured by a conventional method, and a yarn having a triangular cross-sectional shape similar to that of a silk is used.

위사로는 분할 되었을 때 단사 섬도가 0.3 데니어 이하인 폴리에스테르/폴리아미드 복합 극세사를 사용한다.As weft yarns, polyester / polyamide composite microfibers with a single yarn fineness of 0.3 denier or less are used.

상기 사는 폴리에스테르 부분에 일반적인 폴리에스테르 칩대신에 카치온 염료가 염성 폴리에스테르 칩을 사용하여 제조한 것이다.The yarn is produced by using a salt polyester chip in the cationic dye instead of the polyester chip common to the polyester portion.

본 발명은 상기한 바와 같은 위사를 사용함으로서 멜란지 효과를 극대화 시킬 수 있다.The present invention can maximize the melange effect by using the weft as described above.

또 본 발명은 직물을 제조함에 있어서 경사의 함량이 전체 직물 중량에 대하여 45 ∼ 65% 되게 하는 것이 중요하다.In addition, in the present invention, it is important to make the content of the incline 45 to 65% with respect to the total weight of the fabric.

만약 경사의 함량이 45중량% 미만이면 견과 같은 광택을 발현 시키기 어려우며, 경사의 함량이 65중량%을 초과하면 견과 같은 우수한 광택은 발현 시킬 수 있지만 직물의 전체적인 촉감이 나빠지고 멜란지 효과가 급격히 감소하게 된다.If the content of the warp is less than 45% by weight, it is difficult to express gloss like a silk. If the content of the warp is more than 65% by weight, it is possible to express a gloss like a silk, but the overall texture of the fabric is worsened and the melange effect is sharply reduced. do.

이렇게 제조한 폴리에스테르 직물을 가공하는데 있어서 주의할 점은 감량 공정이다.In processing polyester fabrics thus produced, one thing to note is the weight reduction process.

본 발명에서는 감량율을 직물 전체 중량에 대하여 5 ∼ 10%가 되도록 감량 가공 하였다.In the present invention, the weight loss rate was reduced to 5 to 10% of the total weight of the fabric.

이때 감량율이 5중랑% 미만이면 위사로 사용된 분할형 극세사의 분할이 원할치 못해 전반적으로 직물의 촉감이 떨어지며, 감량율이 10중량%를 초과하면 경사로 사용한 세섬도 이수축사로 인한 장점인 견광택이 급격히 저하 될 뿐 아니라 직물의 드레이프성이 급격히 감소한다.At this time, if the weight loss ratio is less than 5% of the weight, the split microfiber yarn used as the weft yarn is undesired, and the overall feel of the fabric is reduced. Not only is this drastically degraded, but the drape of the fabric is drastically reduced.

실시예 1Example 1

경사로 3각 단면 형태의 공중합 세섬도 이수축 폴리에스테르 멀티 필라멘트사를 사용하되, 섬도 및 필라멘트 수가 50데니어/36필라멘트인 원사를 사용 하였다.Copolymerized fine-grained biaxial polyester multifilament yarn was used in the form of a three-sided cross section, but yarns with fineness and filament number of 50 denier / 36 filaments were used.

위사로는 분할 후 단사 섬도가 0.3 데니어인 카치온 염료 가염성 폴리에스테르/폴리아미드의 2 성분 분할 복합 극세사를 사용하며, 섬도는 120 데니어인 것을 사용 하였다.As the weft yarn, two-component split composite microfiber of cationic dye saltable polyester / polyamide having a single denier fineness of 0.3 denier after splitting was used, and a fineness of 120 denier was used.

이때 경사의 중량이 전체 중량의 60%가 되게 하여 직물을 제조 하였다.At this time, the weight of the warp was made 60% of the total weight to prepare a fabric.

경사는 사이징 하였으며, 조직은 평직으로 하여, 위사의 도출빈도가 50%가 되도록 하였다.The warp was sized and the tissue was plain weave so that the weaving frequency was 50%.

이렇게 제조된 직물을 통상의 염가공법으로 가공하였으며, 이때 감량율은 5중량%로 하여 제조 하였다.The fabric thus prepared was processed by a conventional dyeing method, and the weight loss rate was prepared by 5% by weight.

실시예 2Example 2

직물 전체에서 경사의 중량을 50중량%로 한 것 이외에는 실시예 1 과 동일하게 제조 하였다.Except that the weight of the warp in the entire fabric to 50% by weight was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1.

실시예 3Example 3

제조된 직물의 감량율을 10중량%로 하여 가공한 것 이외에는 실시예 1과 같게 제조 하였다.The fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weight loss of the fabric was processed to 10% by weight.

비교예 1Comparative Example 1

경사로 열수축 차가 다른 두섬유를 공기 교락 시켜서 제조한 통상의 이수축 혼섬사를 사용, 섬도 및 필라멘트 수가 120데니어/60필라멘트(단사섬도 ; 2 데니어)인 원사를 사용한 것 이외에는 실시예 1 과 동일하게 하였다.The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that a conventional biaxial intertwined yarn manufactured by air entanglement of two fibers having different thermal shrinkages in a ramp was used, and a yarn having a fineness and filament number of 120 denier / 60 filament (single fineness; 2 denier) was used. .

비교예 2Comparative Example 2

직물 전체에서 경사의 중량을 70중량%로한 것 이외에는 실시예 1 과 동일하게 하였다.It carried out similarly to Example 1 except having set the weight of the warp in the whole fabric to 70 weight%.

비교예 3Comparative Example 3

직물 전체에서 경사의 중량을 30중량%로 한 것 이외에는 실시예 1 과 동일하게 하였다.It carried out similarly to Example 1 except having set the weight of the inclination to 30 weight% in the whole fabric.

비교예 4Comparative Example 4

제조된 직물의 감량율을 3중량%로 한 것 이외에는 실시예 1과 동일하게 하였다.It was the same as that of Example 1 except the loss ratio of the manufactured fabric being 3 weight%.

비교예 5Comparative Example 5

제조된 직물의 감량율을 15중량%로 한 것 이외에는 실시예 1과 동일하게 하였다.It was the same as that of Example 1 except the loss ratio of the manufactured fabric being 15 weight%.

실시예 및 비교예의 결과는 표1과 같았다.The results of the examples and the comparative examples are shown in Table 1.

＜ 표 1 ＞<Table 1>

본 발명으로 제조한 직물은 견과 같은 우아한 광택과 부드러운 촉감을 발현 시킬 뿐만 아니라 우수한 멜란지 효과가 동시에 발현된다.The fabric produced by the present invention not only expresses an elegant luster and soft touch like a silk, but also exhibits excellent melange effect simultaneously.

본 발명의 견조 폴리에스테르 직물은 남성용 코트, 여성용 정장 및 스포츠 의류에 널리 사용 가능하다.The solid polyester fabric of the present invention is widely used in men's coats, women's suits and sports apparel.

Claims (1)

경사로는 횡단면 형태가 3각형인 세섬도의 공중합 이수축 폴리에스테르 멀티 필라멘트사를 사용하고, 위사로는 분할 후 단사섬도가 0.3 데니어 이하인 카치온 염료 가염성 폴리에스테르/폴리아미드 복합사를 사용하며, 경사의 총 중량이 직물의 전체 중량에 대하여 45 ∼ 60중량%가 되도록 제직한 후 감량율이 5 ∼ 10중량%가 되도록 감량 처리함을 특징으로 하는 멜란지 효과가 우수한 견조(絹調) 폴리에스테르 직물의 제조방법.Slope is made of co-shrink polyester multifilament yarn of fine-grained fine cross-section, triangular cross-section, and weft is made of cationic dye salted polyester / polyamide composite yarn having single yarn fineness of 0.3 denier or less after splitting. After weaving so that the total weight is 45 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the fabric, the weight loss treatment is performed so that the weight loss ratio is 5 to 10% by weight. Manufacturing method.
KR1019990042166A 1999-09-30 1999-09-30 Manufacturing of silk like polyester fabric having melange effect. KR100330249B1 (en)

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KR100330249B1 KR100330249B1 (en) 2002-03-25

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