KR20080008742A - A process for making an acetate yarn like-polyester interlaced yarn of a good melange effect - Google Patents

Abstract

A method for producing an acetate fiber-like polyester interlaced yarn is provided to improve a mlange effect and a drapery effect of the polyester interlaced yarn and express the same dry touch feeling as acetate fibers, by forming the polyester interlaced yarn using a flat section type polyester multifilament and a curved section type polyester multifilament. An acetate fiber-like polyester interlaced yarn is produced by interlacing a first yarn and a second yarn with each other, wherein the first yarn uses a flat section type polyester multifilament and the second yarn uses a curved section type polyester multifilament. Each of the first yarn and the second yarn has a fineness of 40-150 deniers. In the acetate fiber-like polyester interlaced yarn, a weight ratio of the first yarn to the second yarn is 35:65-65:35. Further, a fineness of a single yarn is 1.0-2.5 dpf.

Description

A process for making an acetate yarn like-polyester interlaced yarn of a good melange effect.}

Figure 1 (a) ~ (d) is a cross-sectional view of the curved cross-sectional polyester filament yarn used in the present invention

The present invention is applied to a flat cross-section polyester multifilament yarn and a curved cross-section polyester multifilament yarn, polyester air entanglement that expresses natural melange tone and excellent drapey as well as dry touch similar to acetate fiber It relates to a manufacturing method of the company.

Since the development of polyester fibers as synthetic fibers, polyester fibers have been widely used in apparel and industrial fibers because of their excellent mechanical and chemical properties and ease of various processing processes. However, due to the metallic gloss and slippery texture and remarkably low hygroscopicity peculiar to synthetic fibers, it has a disadvantage in that the productability is significantly lower than that of natural fibers or regenerated fibers such as cotton, silk, wool, acetate, and viscose rayon.

In order to improve this disadvantage, a method of producing a melange effect by expressing the dichroism in the woven and knitted fabrics by using the difference in the dyeability between different yarns through the teaching of polyester fibers, natural fibers or recycled fibers, etc. There is a problem that the processing method is difficult, and the manufacturing cost is relatively high. In order to solve this problem, a method of combining cation dyeable polyester (CDP) and general polyester fiber has been developed. However, the alkali reduction rate of CDP is too fast compared to general polyester fiber, so that the feel of polyester products is soft. There is a disadvantage in that the weight loss process is restricted. Therefore, until now, the method for expressing natural sense and melange tone in textiles and knitted fabrics has been largely combined with natural fibers and synthetic fibers to improve dyeability, and CDP and general polyester fibers are combined to preserve the strength of the fabric after weight loss treatment. It is divided into ways.

For example, Korean Patent Registration No. 254696 proposes a method of controlling the molecular weight and dyeing temperature of the dye used to express the melange effect in the polyester / acetate composite fiber, but there are limitations of color fastness and dye used, and Japan Patent Publication No. 59-88972 proposed a method of making a fabric by thickening the fineness of CDP by attaching an adhesive to the CDP in order to reduce the speed of CDP reduction. It has a problem such as being. In addition, Korean Patent Publication No. 89-3887 proposes a method for reducing weight loss by using a mixture of alkali and nonionic surfactants to control the speed of CDP reduction, but this method is also difficult to prepare, further cost increase and excellent touch. Problems such as difficulty in expression. In addition, a method of applying a microfiber similar in weight loss to a CDP has been proposed, but this method has a disadvantage in that the selection of the constitution yarn is difficult and limited.

The present invention is applied to the flat cross-section polyester filament yarn and the curved cross-section polyester filament yarn to solve the problems in the dyeing and weight loss process as described above, as well as natural melange tone and excellent drapey as well as acetate fiber There is a technical problem to provide a method for producing a polyester air entangled yarn expressing a dry touch similar to.

It is preferable that the curved cross section polyester filament yarn to be applied to the present invention has a cross section in the form as shown in Figs. 1A to 1D.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

Interlaced (I / L) with 40 ~ 150 denier polyester flat cross section multifilament yarn and 40 ~ 150 denier polyester curved cross section multifilament yarn with 300 ~ 500m / min firing speed and 2.5 ~ 3.5 kgf air pressure Manufacture the yarn. If the denier of one multifilament yarn is less than 40 denier or more than 150 denier, the weight and touch of the fabric worsens and it is difficult to apply it to the garment yarn. In addition, the content of the bent cross-section filament yarn in the composite yarn is prepared so that the weight ratio of 35 ~ 65%. If the content of the curved cross-section filament yarn is less than 35% by weight, the soft luster disappears, and when the content of more than 65% by weight, the melange effect is poor. Here, the single yarn fineness of each component is 1.0 ~ 2.5 dpf (denier per filament). If it is less than 1.0 dpf, dry touch of the acetate bath is not expressed, and if it is more than 2.5 dpf, the degree of entanglement is lowered, resulting in poor post process workability.

Air interlaced yarn produced by the above method is subjected to the weaving, knitting process, in order to further improve the dry touch of the acetate bath may be carried out the twisting process before the weaving, knitting process. The number of years (T / M) is slightly different depending on the single yarn fineness, the total denier, etc., but in general it is better to be less than 800 T / M. When working under the condition of more than 800 T / M, the touch of the fabric becomes rough and stiff, resulting in poor product quality.

The weight loss process performed during the salt processing of the polyester product is to reduce the metallic luster of the polyester fiber and smooth the fabric as described above. Compared with the general circular cross-section polyester yarns, due to the diffuse reflection of the hetero-section cross section which is a characteristic of the cross-section cross-section yarn, soft gloss and uprightness of the pile, recovery property are large, and the bending stiffness is reduced, so that the soft texture is expressed. This greatly decreases and development as a lead-free product is possible. Even if the weight loss process is performed for smoother gloss and touch, there is almost no difference in the weight loss rate between the two types of composite machining.

<Example 1>

Using a flat cross-section polyester yarn of 75 denier 36 filaments as the first component yarn, and a curved cross-section polyester yarn of 75 denier 36 filaments as the second component yarn, interlaced with air pressure of 2.5 kgf and draw ratio (DR) 0.98 After the preparation, the knitted fabric was manufactured under normal conditions and the dyeing was performed.

 <Example 2>

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 800T / M twist was given to the processed yarn.

 <Example 3>

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a curved cross-section polyester yarn of 45 denier 24 filaments was used as the second constituent yarn.

 <Comparative Example 1>

A flat cross-section polyester yarn of 150 denier 72 filaments was used as the first constituent yarn, and was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a curved cross-section polyester yarn of 45 denier 24 filaments was used as the second constituent yarn.

 <Comparative Example 2>

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 1200 T / M twist was applied to the manufactured yarn.

 <Comparative Example 3>

A flat cross-section polyester yarn of 75 denier 24 filaments was used as the first constituent yarn, and was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a curved cross-section polyester yarn of 75 denier 24 filaments was used as the second constituent yarn.

 <Comparative Example 4>

A flat cross-section polyester yarn of 45 denier 24 filaments was used as the first constituent yarn, and was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a curved cross-section polyester yarn of 150 denier 72 filaments was used as the second constituent yarn.

The touch, gloss, melange effect, etc. of the processed yarn and the knitted fabric of the present invention were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1. Fabric quality evaluation is very good when 40 or more employees are judged to be excellent as a result of visual and emotional tests, and when 20 or more are judged to be excellent, 10 or more are judged to be excellent. Usually, when it judged that 9 or less were excellent, it judged as bad.

Woven fabrics made of the air entangled yarn of the present invention expresses a natural melange tone and excellent drapey, as well as a dry touch similar to acetate fibers, so that women's suits, jackets and other materials for outerwear as well as women's It can be widely used as a blouse.

In addition, the fabric, knitted fabric of the air entangled yarn of the present invention can be applied to the conventional method at the time of dyeing and weight loss treatment process can be secured compared to the conventional difficult and complex dyeing and weight loss treatment method.

Claims (3)

The first yarn is interlaced using a flat cross-section polyester multifilament yarn and the second yarn is a curved cross-section polyester multifilament yarn, and the total fineness of the first yarn and the second yarn is 40 to 150 denier, respectively. Method for producing an acetate fiber-based polyester air entangled yarn showing an excellent melange effect, characterized in that it is manufactured so that the weight ratio of the first yarn and the second yarn is 35:65 ~ 65:35. The method according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness of the first yarn and the second yarn is 1.0-2.5 dpf, wherein the acetate fiber-based polyester air entangled yarn having excellent melange effect is produced. The method for producing an acetate-fiber polyester air entangled yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein a twist of 800 T / M or less is imparted.

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