KR19990017571A - Fabrication method of elastic woven fabrics with excellent lightness - Google Patents

Fabrication method of elastic woven fabrics with excellent lightness Download PDF

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KR19990017571A
KR19990017571A KR1019970040549A KR19970040549A KR19990017571A KR 19990017571 A KR19990017571 A KR 19990017571A KR 1019970040549 A KR1019970040549 A KR 1019970040549A KR 19970040549 A KR19970040549 A KR 19970040549A KR 19990017571 A KR19990017571 A KR 19990017571A
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yarn
fabric
sanding
fabrics
knitted
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KR1019970040549A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100493417B1 (en
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양광웅
황문섭
이은주
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김윤
주식회사 삼양사
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/24Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a hollow structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D17/00Woven fabrics having elastic or stretch properties due to manner of weaving
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D47/00Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms
    • D03D47/28Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein the weft itself is projected into the shed
    • D03D47/30Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein the weft itself is projected into the shed by gas jet
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D06C15/02Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics between co-operating press or calender rolls
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은 중공도가 5~35%인 폴리에스테르중공사로 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 커버링한 사를 위사로 하거나 편사로 하여 직, 편물을 제조한후 샌딩시에 기모의 길이가 0.01mm~0.1mm가 되도록 샌딩하여서 경량이면서 대전방지처리를 하지 않더라도 제전성이 우수한 신축성 직, 편물을 제조하는 방법임.The present invention is a polyester hollow fiber of 5% to 35% of hollowness, and the length of brushed sanding at the time of sanding after fabrication of woven and knitted fabric using a yarn or a knitting yarn covering a polyurethane elastic yarn. It is a method of manufacturing stretch fabrics and knitted fabrics with excellent antistatic properties even though they are lightweight and do not have antistatic treatment by sanding as much as possible.

Description

경량감이 우수한 신축성 직, 편물의 제조방법Fabrication method of elastic woven fabrics with excellent lightness

본 발명은 경량이고, 제전성이 우수한 신축성 직, 편물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchy woven fabric and a knitted fabric which are lightweight and have excellent antistatic properties.

신축성 직, 편물을 제조하는 방법에 대한 연구중에서 대부분은 폴리우레탄 탄성사 혹은 폴리에스테르계 탄성사와, 상기 탄성사와 함께 사용하는 이펙트사간의 물성 차이에서 오는 염색성등의 차이를 해결하는 방법에 집중되고있다.Most of the studies on the method of manufacturing the elastic woven and knitted fabrics are focused on the method of solving the difference in the dyeing properties resulting from the difference in physical properties between the polyurethane elastic polyester or polyester elastic yarn and the effect yarn used with the elastic yarn.

최근 폴리우레탄 탄성사와 폴리에스테르 섬유를 혼용하여 사용한 경우 염색차 부분을 한국공개특허 96-10623에 소개된 바와같이 가공방법으로 그 차이를 극복하려고 시도하고 있다.Recently, when using a mixture of polyurethane elastic yarns and polyester fibers is trying to overcome the difference by the method of processing the dyeing difference portion as introduced in Korean Patent Publication No. 96-10623.

그러나 폴리에스테르 섬유와 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 함께 사용하는 경우에 이러한 문제 이외에도 최근 활동성을 강조하다 보니까 중량이 무겁다는 문제가 대두되고 있다. 즉, 일반적으로 폴리우레탄 탄성사와 함께 사용하고 있는 폴리에스테르사는 그 비중이 보통 1.38~1.43정도로 의복을 만들었을때 폴리우레탄의 비중과 합해지면서 직, 편물로 하였을 때 일반직물에 비해 중량이 상당히 무거워진다. 또한 폴리에스테르사를 상기 신축성 직, 편물의 재료로 사용하기 때문에 이것을 몸에 밀착시키는 의복용으로 사용할 경우에는 정전기가 발생하므로 가공 공정에서 반드시 대전 방지 처리를 하여야만 하였다.However, when the polyester fiber and the polyurethane elastic yarn are used together, in addition to these problems, the problem of weight is increasing because of the recent activity. That is, polyester yarns generally used together with polyurethane elastic yarns are usually 1.38 to 1.43, and when combined with the specific gravity of polyurethane when making garments, the weight becomes considerably heavier than that of ordinary fabrics. In addition, since the polyester yarn is used as the material for the stretchable fabric and knitted fabric, static electricity is generated when the polyester yarn is used for clothing to be in close contact with the body. Therefore, an antistatic treatment must be performed in the processing step.

본 발명은 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 심사로 사용하되, 중공도가 10~35%인 폴리에스테르 중공사를 이펙트사로 사용하고, 센딩 가공으로 중공사의 피브릴화를 유발시켜서 부드러운 촉감과 경량성을 부여하면서 대전방지처리를 하지 않더라도 제전성이 우수한 신축성 직, 편물의 제조방법을 제공하는데 목적이 있는 것이다.In the present invention, polyurethane elastic yarn is used as the screening, but polyester hollow fiber having a hollowness of 10 to 35% is used as an effect yarn, and the fibrillation of the hollow yarn is induced by the sending process, thereby giving a soft touch and light weight. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing stretchy woven fabrics and knitted fabrics with excellent antistatic properties even if they are not prevented.

본 발명은 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트계 폴리에스테르를 2500-3000m/분으로 방사한 실을 가연하여 경사로 사용하고, 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 중공도가 5~35%면 좋고 10~30%이면 더욱 바람직한 폴리에스테르 중공사로 커버링하여 제조한 것을 위사로 사용하여 제직하거나, 상기 커버링사를 사용하여 편성한다. 만일 중공도가 5%미만이면 중공섬유로서의 효과가 없어져 경량감과 흡습성이 약하게 되며, 35%를 초과하면 센딩 공정에서 중공이 파괴되어 염색단등을 발생시킨다. 상기 직, 편물을 다음과 같은 공정으로 가공한다.In the present invention, the yarns spun with polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester spun at 2500-3000 m / min are used as warp yarns. Weaving is done using a covering weave, or knitted using the covering yarn. If the degree of hollowness is less than 5%, the effect as a hollow fiber is lost, and the lightness and hygroscopicity are weakened. If the degree of hollowness exceeds 35%, the hollow is broken in the sending process to generate dyeing stages. The woven fabric is knitted by the following process.

양호한 촉감을 발현시키기 위해 통상의 폴리에스테르직물의 가공방법에서 실시하고 있는 감량공정을 하지 않고 직물의 표면을 센딩하는 방법을 실시한다. 샌딩할 때 사용하는 센딩기는 5단으로 하되 첫번째 롤러와 마지막 롤러는 120~250번 센트페이퍼를 사용하고, 실제로 센딩을 실시하는 두번째, 세번째, 네번째 롤러에는 100~150번 센드 페이퍼를 사용하는 것이 좋다.In order to express a good touch, the method of sending the surface of a woven fabric is performed, without performing the weight reduction process performed by the normal polyester fabric processing method. The sanding machine used for sanding should be 5 steps, but the first roller and the last roller should be 120 ~ 250 cent papers, and the sender paper 100 ~ 150 should be used for the second, third, and fourth rollers that actually send. .

센딩할 때 중공도가 파괴되면 제전성능이 저하되므로 센딩시의 기모길이는 0.01mm~0.1mm가 되게 하여야한다. 만일 기모길이가 0.01mm 미만이면 표면의 촉감이 폴리에스테르 고유의 촉감처럼 딱딱해 진다. 또한 0.1mm를 초과하면 중공이 파괴되어 섬유강도가 심히 약해져 절사현상이 발생하고 제전성도 저하 된다. 정련, 축소는 90℃에서 10분, 프리셋팅은 190℃에서 1분간 처리하였다. 이렇게 제조한 직물을 130℃에서 30분처리하고, 통상의 감량가공을 하지 않은체 최종 셋팅만 180℃에서 1분간 처리하여서 경량감이 우수하고, 제전성이 뛰어난 신축성 직물을 제조하였다.If the hollowness is broken during the sending, the antistatic performance is lowered, so the brushing length during the sending should be 0.01mm ~ 0.1mm. If the brushing length is less than 0.01 mm, the surface feels hard like the polyester's original touch. In addition, if it exceeds 0.1mm, the hollow is broken and the fiber strength is severely weakened, resulting in cutting and deterioration in antistatic properties. Refinement and reduction were performed at 90 ° C for 10 minutes and presetting at 190 ° C for 1 minute. The fabric thus prepared was treated at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, and only the final setting without normal weight reduction treatment was performed at 180 ° C. for 1 minute to produce a stretch fabric having excellent lightness and excellent antistatic properties.

또한 이러한 폴리우레탄 탄성사와 이펙트사인 폴리에스테르 중공사를 이용하여 편물을 제조할 때 중공사에 대한 폴리우레탄 탄성사의 비율은 10~35중량%가 되도록 하는 것이 좋다.In addition, when producing a knitted fabric using the polyurethane elastic yarn and the effect yarn polyester hollow fiber, the ratio of the polyurethane elastic yarn to the hollow fiber is preferably 10 to 35% by weight.

이렇게 제조한 편물의 가공방법은 프리셋팅 온도를 160℃에서 1분간 처리하는 것을 제외하고는 직물을 가공하는 조건과 동일하게 처리하여서 우수한 경량감과 대전 방지성을 갖는 신축성 편물을 제조 할 수 있었다.The processing method of the knitted fabric thus manufactured was manufactured in the same manner as the fabric processing conditions except that the preset temperature was treated at 160 ° C. for 1 minute, thereby producing an elastic knitted fabric having excellent lightness and antistatic properties.

또한 제직 준비 단계에서 이펙트사로 사용하는 중공사의 섬도와 폴리우레탄 탄성사의 섬도를 적절하게 선택함으로서 외의용도에서 부터 스포츠웨어 부분까지 광범위한 분야의 신축성 직편물을 제조할 수 있다.In addition, by selecting the fineness of the hollow yarn and polyurethane elastic yarn used as the effect yarn in the weaving preparation stage, it is possible to manufacture a flexible knitted fabric in a wide range of fields from external use to sportswear.

본 발명으로 제조한 직, 편물의 특성을 파악하기 위해 흡습성은 TEXTEST제(Hydrostatic head tester) 흡습성 평가제로 측정하였다. 태 평가는 가와바다 시스템을 사용하였고, 정전기 발생여부는 가네보제 마찰 대전압 측정기(Electro Static Meter)를 사용하여 그 성능을 비교하였고, 신축성 부분은 가로 10cm, 세로 30cm인 시료를 준비하여 다음식에 의하여 산출한다.Hygroscopicity was measured by the TEXTEST agent (Hydrostatic head tester) hygroscopicity evaluation agent in order to grasp the characteristics of the fabric and knitted fabric produced by the present invention. For the evaluation of the condition, Kawasea system was used, and the static electricity was compared by using Kanebo's Electro Static Meter, and the elastic part was prepared 10mm wide and 30cm long. Calculate by

A : 초기시료의 표시 길이, B : 스트레치된 직물의 길이A: Marking length of initial sample, B: Length of stretched fabric

(실시예 1)(Example 1)

심사인 폴리우레탄 탄성사는 모노 30데니어를 사용하였고, 이펙트사로 중공도가 10%인 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트계 폴리에스테르 섬유 150데니어 72필라멘트사를 사용하였다. 이때 중공사에 대한 폴리우레탄계 탄성사의 비율은 10중량%가 되게 하였다. 심사를 3.0의 연신비로 연신하면서 이펙트사로 커버링하여 위사를 준비하였다. 경사로는 가연사 75데니아 72필라멘트사를 사용하였으며, 경사밀도 200본/인치, 위사밀도를 100본/인치로 에어젯트 직기에서 직물을 제직하였다. 가공 공정은 5단 센딩기에서 시작하되 이때 첫번째 롤러와 다섯번째 롤러는 120번의 센드 페이퍼를 사용하고 두 번째, 세번째, 네번째 롤러는 100번 롤러를 사용하여 기모길이가 0.05mm가 되도록 센딩하고, 릴렉서에서 90℃, 10분간 처리하고, 190℃에서 1분동안 프리셋팅으로 열고정 후, 120℃에서 30분 동안 염색후, 180℃에서 1분간 최종 열셋팅하여 직물을 제조하였다.Polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a screening yarn, used mono 30 denier, and 150 denier 72 filament yarn of polyethylene terephthalate polyester fiber having 10% hollowness as an effect yarn. At this time, the ratio of the polyurethane-based elastic yarn to the hollow fiber was 10% by weight. Weaving the screening with a draw ratio of 3.0, covering with an effect yarn to prepare a weft yarn. For the ramp, 75 denier and 72 filament yarns were used, and weaving was performed on an air jet loom with a warp density of 200 bones / inch and a weft density of 100 bones / inch. The machining process starts with a five-speed sender, where the first roller and the fifth roller use 120 send papers, and the second, third and fourth rollers use 100 rollers to send the brushed length to 0.05mm and reel The fabric was prepared by heat treatment at 90 ° C. for 10 minutes in a lexer, heat setting by presetting at 190 ° C. for 1 minute, dyeing at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes, and final heat setting at 180 ° C. for 1 minute.

(실시예 2)(Example 2)

중공도가 30%인 폴리에스테르 중공사 150데니어 72필라멘트로 우레탄계 탄성사 40데니어사를 커버링한 사를 사용하여 편직하되, 이때 중공사에 대한 폴리우레탄계 탄성사의 비율은 20중량%가 되도록 하였다. 또한 가공 공정은 프리셋팅 온도를 160℃에서 1분간 처리하는 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 가공하였다.The hollow fiber was knitted by using a yarn covering 40 denier yarns of urethane-based elastic yarn with 150 denier 72 filaments of polyester hollow fiber, but the ratio of polyurethane-based elastic yarn to hollow fiber was 20% by weight. In addition, the machining process was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the preset temperature is treated at 160 ° C. for 1 minute.

(비교예 1)(Comparative Example 1)

이펙트사로 중공도 3%의 중공사를 사용한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 직물을 제조하였다.A fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that hollow fiber having a hollowness of 3% was used as the effect yarn.

(비교예 2)(Comparative Example 2)

이펙트사로 중공도 38%의 중공섬유를 사용한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 제조하였다.It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that hollow fibers having a hollowness of 38% were used as the effect yarn.

(비교예 3)(Comparative Example 3)

실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 제직한 직물을 센딩 공정시 기모길이가 0.005mm가 되게 하는것을 제외하고는 동일한 방법으로 가공 하였다.The fabric woven in the same manner as in Example 1 was processed in the same manner except that the brushed length is 0.005mm during the sending process.

(비교예 4)(Comparative Example 4)

실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 제직한 직물을 센딩 공정시 기모길이가 0.2mm가 되게 하는 것을 제외하고는 동일한 방법으로 가공하였다.The fabric woven in the same manner as in Example 1 was processed in the same manner except that the brushed length is 0.2mm during the sending process.

(비교예 5)(Comparative Example 5)

경사로는 실시예 1과 동일한 원사를 사용하고, 위사에 사용되는 이펙트사로는 폴리에스테르 75데니어 72필라멘트를 사용하여 실시예 14과 동일한 조건으로 커버링하여 직물을 제직하고 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 가공하였다.The same yarn as in Example 1 was used, and the effect yarn used for the weft was covered in the same conditions as in Example 14 using polyester 75 denier 72 filaments to weave the fabric and processed in the same manner as in Example 1. .

실시예 1, 2와 비교예 1~5의 결과는 표 1과 같았다.The results of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were as in Table 1.

[표 1]TABLE 1

○ : 우수 △ : 보통 × : 불량○: Excellent △: Normal ×: Poor

본 발명은 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 폴리에스테르 중공사로 커버링한 사로 직, 편한후에 가공시에 적절한 샌딩조건으로 샌딩하는 간단한 방법에 의하여 경량이며 대전방지처리를 하지않더라도 제전성능이 우수한 신축성 직, 편물을 제조할 수 있다.The present invention is to produce a flexible woven fabric, knitted fabric with excellent elasticity and antistatic performance by a simple method of sanding the polyurethane elastic yarn covered with polyester hollow fiber, and after sanding in a suitable sanding conditions during processing. Can be.

Claims (1)

폴리에스테르중공사로 폴리우레탄계 탄성사를 커버링시켜서 제조한 사를 위사로 사용하거나 편사로 사용하여 직, 편한 직, 편물을 릴렉스하고 열처리하여 신축성 직, 편물을 제조함에 있어서, 중공도가 5~35%인 중공사를 사용하고, 샌딩시에 기모길이가 0.01mm~0.1mm가 되도록 샌딩함을 특징으로 하는 경량감이 우수한 신축성 직, 편물의 제조방법.In the manufacture of elastic woven fabric and knitted fabric by using polyester hollow fiber to cover polyurethane-based elastic yarn as a weft yarn, or as a weft yarn, in the production of elastic woven fabric and knitted fabric by relaxing and heat-treating woven fabrics, comfortable woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, the hollowness is 5 to 35%. A method for manufacturing stretch fabrics and knitted fabrics having excellent light weight, characterized in that sanding is performed so that the brushing length is 0.01 mm to 0.1 mm at the time of sanding.
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KR101268352B1 (en) 2011-07-29 2013-05-28 주식회사 세올 Double covering composite yarn for lightness texture weaving having natural fiber textuer feel
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