KR102569123B1 - Process Of Producing Environmental Friendly Down-Proof Fabrics Using Non-Circular Cross-Section Recycled Nylon Yarn - Google Patents
Process Of Producing Environmental Friendly Down-Proof Fabrics Using Non-Circular Cross-Section Recycled Nylon Yarn Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
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- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
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- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/207—Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
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- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
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- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/564—Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
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- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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Abstract
본 발명은 Non-coating 방식의 Down-proof 소재로 커버링성이 뛰어난 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서 본 발명에 의하면, 기존의 DOWN PROOF 코팅 직물의 통기성 부족에 따른 DOWN의 썩는 문제를 해결할 수 있으며, 공기 투과도가 유지되면서 고온 열 카렌다면을 표면으로하는 HIGH GROSSY DOWN PROOF직물을 제조할 수 있다. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using non-coating down-proof material with recycled nylon yarn having excellent covering properties. It can solve the problem of DOWN decay, and can manufacture HIGH GROSSY DOWN PROOF fabric with high-temperature thermal calendula as its surface while maintaining air permeability.
Description
본 발명은 Non-coating 방식의 Down-proof 소재로 커버링성이 뛰어난 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using a non-coating down-proof material that is excellent in covering properties and recycled nylon yarn with a special cross-section.
다운(Down)은 조류의 몸 표면을 덮고 있는 털로서, 특히 조류의 가슴 부위에 솜털을 의미하는 것이다. 이러한 가슴 솜털은 깃털보다 부드럽고 미세하기 때문에 공기를 많이 품을 수 있어 공기층이 열전도를 차단하는 효과를 가져와서 보온성이 매우 뛰어나다.Down is the hair covering the surface of the body of a bird, and in particular, refers to downy hair on the chest of a bird. Because these chest downs are softer and finer than feathers, they can hold a lot of air, so the air layer has the effect of blocking heat conduction, so it has excellent warmth.
이러한 다운(Down) 소재로 사용하는 것은 크게 오리털과 거위털로 나뉘는데, 오리털은 거위털에 비해서 보온성은 덜하지만 상대적으로 저렴하기 때문에 이불솜으로 많이 사용되며, 거위털은 보온성이 높지만, 가격이 높기 때문에 주로 패딩용 소재로 많이 사용되고 있다.These down materials are largely divided into duck down and goose down. Duck down has less warmth than goose down, but is relatively inexpensive, so it is often used as quilt cotton. Because it is high, it is mainly used as a material for padding.
다운소재는 모근과 솜털로 조합되어 있는데, 모근부위는 조류의 피부에 고정되기 위하여 단단한 각질로 구성되어 있으며, 솜털부위는 주로 보온과 쿠션을 기능을 하도록 구성되어 있다. 다운소재의 보온력은 다운소재의 사용량과 필파워(Fill Power)로부터 발현되는데, 필파워란 다운 1온스(28그램)을 24시간동안 압축한 후 다시 원상태로 되돌아가기 위해 부풀었을 때에 부푸는 복원력을 뜻하며 입방인치(Inch3)로 표시한다.The down material is a combination of hair root and downy hair. The hair root part is composed of hard keratin to be fixed to the bird's skin, and the downy part is mainly composed to function as a warming and cushioning function. The thermal insulation power of down material is expressed from the amount of down material used and fill power. Fill power is the resilience that swells when 1 ounce (28 grams) of down is compressed for 24 hours and then inflated to return to its original state. is expressed in cubic inches (Inch3).
즉, 다운소재는 소재의 복원력을 나타내는 필파워가 높은 제품이 좋은 제품으로 필파워 600 이상이면 고급다운, 800 이상이면 최고급 다운으로 분류되고 있다. 같은 중량을 사용했을 때에 필파워가 수치가 높을수록 복원력도 좋고 보온성, 경량성이 뛰어나기 때문에 고가에 거래되고 있다.In other words, down materials are classified as high-quality down products with high fill power representing the resilience of the material. If the fill power is 600 or more, it is classified as high-grade down, and if it is 800 or more, it is classified as premium down. When the same weight is used, the higher the fill power value, the better the resilience, and the heat retention and lightness are excellent, so it is traded at a high price.
다운소재의 뾰족하고 단단한 각질은 섬유의 올과 올 사이로 다운소재가 빠져나올 수 있도록 하는 "바늘"과 같은 작용을 하기 때문에 일반적인 직물 자체로는 다운소재가 빠지는 현상을 막기 어려우므로 밀도가 높게 짜여진 원단에 다운을 먼저 포장한 후, 패딩에 다시 봉제를 하거나, 올과 올 사이가 조밀하도록 제직 한 후에 화학적인 후가공 방법으로 올과 올 사이를 막아 다운소재가 빠져 나오는 것을 방지하고 있는데, 이를 'Down-proof'라고 한다.Since the pointed and hard dead skin cells of the down material act like a "needle" that allows the down material to escape between the fibers, it is difficult to prevent the down material from falling out with ordinary fabric itself, so it is a fabric woven with high density After packing the down first, it is sewn again to the padding, or after weaving to make the yarn denser, chemical post-processing is used to prevent the down material from escaping. It is called 'proof'.
일반적으로 다운소재의 유출을 막기 위해 사용하는 방법은 별도의 다운백을 만든 후에 다운소재를 다운백 안에 충전하여 별도의 봉제과정을 거치는 것이 깃털 빠짐을 막는 가장 확실한 방법이기는 하지만, 제조공정이 복잡하고 최종제품의 중량이 높아져 경량성 확보에 어려운 단점이 있다.In general, the method used to prevent leakage of down material is to make a separate down bag, then fill the down bag with down material and go through a separate sewing process. This is the surest way to prevent feather loss, but the manufacturing process is complicated and As the weight of the final product increases, it is difficult to secure lightness.
이와 같은 다운백의 단점을 개선하고 보온성과 경량성을 동시에 확보하기 위하여 개발된 방법이 Down-proof Coating 방법으로 원단 표면을 코팅함으로서 다운이 밖으로 빠져나오는 것을 최소화하는 공정으로 개발되었다. 이와 같은 소재는 다운점퍼에 적용 되었으며, 별도의 다운백 없이 옷감 안에 바로 털을 넣을 수 있어 기존의 다운점퍼에 비해 원단의 사용량이 적어서 경량감으로 인한 활동성과 보온성이 우수한 경량다운점퍼에 적용되었다.A method developed to improve the downside of such a down bag and secure warmth and lightness at the same time was developed as a process that minimizes the escape of down by coating the surface of the fabric with the Down-proof Coating method. This material was applied to a down jumper, and since hair can be inserted directly into the fabric without a separate down bag, the amount of fabric used is less than that of conventional down jumpers, so it is applied to a lightweight down jumper with excellent activity and warmth due to its light weight.
그러나 이러한 섬유 코팅방법은 기존의 다운백에 비하여 통기성이 떨어지기 때문에 패딩이 비에 젖은 상태에서 장기간 보관할 경우, 통풍이 되지 않아서 다운소재가 부패하는 경우가 발생되며, 패딩 자체의 소재가 두껍고 뻣뻣하여 착용감이 불편한 단점이 있었다. However, since this fiber coating method has poor air permeability compared to conventional down bags, if the padding is stored for a long time in a wet state in the rain, the down material may rot due to lack of ventilation, and the material of the padding itself is thick and stiff. The downside was that it was uncomfortable to wear.
최근에는 다운백이나 Down-proof Coating 보다 경량성이 우수하면서도 친환경성과 통풍성이 우수한 초경량 다운 패딩의류가 널리 사용되고 있는데, 기존의 다운백이나 Down-proof Coating에 비하여 활동성과 보온성은 우수하지만, 다운의 유출은 어느 정도 감수해야 하는 단점이 있다. Recently, ultra-light down padding clothing, which is more lightweight than down bags or down-proof coatings and has excellent eco-friendliness and ventilation, is widely used. has some disadvantages to bear.
가장 최근에 개발된 초경량 다운패딩용 소재는 열에 의한 열변형이 발생하는 합성섬유를 고밀도로 제직한 후에 염색ㆍ가공의 마지막 단계에서 고온의 캘린더링을 하여 기공을 최소화하는 방법으로서 코팅을 하지 않기 때문에 통기성이 우수하고 가벼우면서도 코팅을 하지 않기 때문에 친환경적인 소재로 각광을 받고 있다. The most recently developed material for ultra-light down padding is a method of minimizing pores by high-temperature calendering in the final stage of dyeing and processing after weaving synthetic fibers that undergo thermal deformation by heat at high density, and there is no coating. It is in the limelight as an eco-friendly material because it has excellent air permeability, is lightweight, and does not have coating.
이러한 코팅을 하지 않는 Down-proof 원단의 제조기술은 패딩용 소재의 고부가가치화와 고감성화를 추구할 수 있는 기술로 적용 원사의 검토, 고밀도 직물의 제직기술, 전처리 및 후가공 기술이 요구되고 있으나 적합한 원사를 활용한 Down-proof 패딩소재의 제조기술이 보편화 되어 있지 않기 때문에 관련 기술개발이 요구되고 있다. Down-proof fabric manufacturing technology without such coating is a technology that can pursue high value-added and high sensitivity of padding material. Since the manufacturing technology of down-proof padding material using the is not universal, related technology development is required.
그러므로 본 발명은 기존의 제조방법의 문제점을 해결하여 Non-coating 방식의 Down-proof 소재로 커버링성이 뛰어난 이형단면사를 사용하고, 화학적이 아닌 물리적인 가공방식에 의해 Down-proof성을 부여하는 방식으로 환경적인 문제와 유해물질 배출에 의한 문제점을 근본적으로 해결할 수 있는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법을 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다. Therefore, the present invention solves the problems of the existing manufacturing method, uses a deformed cross-section yarn with excellent covering properties as a non-coating down-proof material, and provides down-proof properties by a physical processing method rather than a chemical one. The technical task is to provide a method for manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using a modified cross-section recycled nylon yarn that can fundamentally solve the environmental problems and the problems caused by the emission of harmful substances in a way.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 경사 및 위사로서 Y형 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용하며, 상기 경사를 사이징공정을 한 후, Therefore, according to the present invention, Y-shaped or cross-shaped modified cross-section recycled nylon yarns are used as warp and weft yarns, and after sizing the warp yarns,
상기 경사 및 위사로 경사밀도는 경사밀도 179~185본/인치이며, 위사밀도 185~190본/인치 평직조직으로 직물중량 33 ~ 75g/sqm, 커버팩터 18.0 ~ 18.5이 되도록 제직한 후, The warp and weft yarns have a warp density of 179 to 185 yarns/inch and a weft density of 185 to 190 yarns/inch in a plain weave structure with a fabric weight of 33 to 75 g/sqm and a cover factor of 18.0 to 18.5 After weaving,
전처리액에 처리하여 직물의 백도를 향상시키는 전처리공정을 한 후, After the pretreatment process of improving the whiteness of the fabric by treating it with the pretreatment liquid,
정련, 염색후, 고농도의 실리콘 인열증진제 0.5~1.5중량%함유한 후처리액에 패딩(PADDING)처리하여 후처리가공하고, 염색지 기준 +0.5~1" 폭을 넓히고, 텐터기에서 오버피드를 +1~5%설정하고, 180~190℃, 30~60m/min으로 처리를 한 후, 고온 열카렌다 가공하는 것을 특징으로 하는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법이 제공된다. After scouring and dyeing, post-processing is performed by padding in a post-treatment liquid containing 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of a high-concentration silicone tear enhancer. A method for manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using recycled nylon yarn with a deformed cross section is provided, characterized in that +1 to 5% is set, processed at 180 to 190 ° C, 30 to 60 m / min, and then subjected to high-temperature thermal calender processing. .
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법은 Y형 이형단면 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 원사로 사용하며, 경사를 사이징을 한 후, 제직, 전처리공정, 정련, 염색을 한 후, 후처리가공 및 고온 열카렌다 가공하는 순서로 행하게 된다.In the method of manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using recycled nylon yarn of the present invention, Y-shaped or cross-shaped recycled nylon yarn is used as a yarn, and after sizing the warp yarn, weaving, pretreatment, scouring, and dyeing After doing, it is performed in the order of post-processing and high-temperature thermal calendering.
기존의 Down-proof 소재는 수지에 의한 Coating 방식으로 제조하기 때문에 용제에 의한 환경오염 및 제품의 인체 유해성에 대한 문제가 항상 상존하고 있었다. 이에 본 발명에서는 원사로 커버링성이 뛰어난 Y형 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용하여 Non-coating 방식의 Down-proof 소재로 적합하도록 하였으며, 가공시 고농도의 실리콘 인열증진제를 0.5~1.5중량% 함유한 후처리액에 처리하여 후공정의 열 카렌다를 이용한 고광택과 조직 메꿈성을 향상시키고 Down-proof성을 부여하는 방식으로 환경적인 문제와 유해물질 배출에 의한 문제점을 근본적으로 해결할 수 있다.Since the existing down-proof material is manufactured by the resin coating method, the problem of environmental pollution caused by solvent and harmfulness of the product to the human body has always existed. Therefore, in the present invention, Y-shaped or cross-shaped cross-section recycled nylon yarn with excellent covering properties was used to make it suitable as a non-coating down-proof material, and it contained 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of a high-concentration silicone tear enhancer during processing. It can fundamentally solve the problem caused by the emission of harmful substances and environmental problems by treating it with a post-treatment liquid to improve the high gloss and tissue filling using the heat calender in the post-process and to give the down-proof property.
상기 Y형 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사는 표면적이 넓어 Down-proof성을 극대화하고, 단면의 형태가 복잡하면서도 Package성이 양호하여 다운소재의 단단한 각질이 섬유의 올과 올 사이를 빠져나오기가 어렵게 된다. 또한, 원사의 열수수축률이 클수록 정련 시 원사의 수축이 많이 일어나기 때문에 Down-proof성이 높을 것으로 예상된다. Y형 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사의 열수축율은 10~13%가 바람직하다. The Y-shaped or cross-shaped cross-section recycled nylon yarn has a wide surface area to maximize down-proof properties, and the cross-sectional shape is complex yet has good package properties, making it difficult for hard keratin of the down material to escape between the fibers. . In addition, the higher the heat shrinkage rate of the yarn, the higher the down-proof property is expected because the yarn shrinks more during scouring. The heat shrinkage rate of Y-shaped or cross-shaped cross-section recycled nylon yarn is preferably 10 to 13%.
경사로 사용하기 위한 Y형 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사는 사이징공정을 하게 되는데, 상기 Y형 또는 십자형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사는 기존에 사용되던 이형단면사보다는 인장강신도가 다소 낮기 때문에 고밀도 직물 제직시 사절과 생산속도에 문제가 있을 수 있어 워터젯 직기를 사용하여 제직하는 것이 바람직하다. The Y-shaped or cross-shaped recycled nylon yarn for use as a ramp undergoes a sizing process. Since the Y-shaped or cross-shaped recycled nylon yarn has a slightly lower tensile strength than the conventionally used special-shaped cross-section yarn, trimming and production when weaving high-density fabrics There may be a problem with speed, so it is preferable to weave using a water jet loom.
본 발명의 사이징공정은 아크릴산 30~70중량%, 대전방지제 1~3중량%, 침투제 0.01~0.5중량%, 왁스 5~10중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 가호액을 사용하는 것이 워터젯 직기용 경사 사이징이 바람직하다. In the sizing process of the present invention, a sizing solution containing 30 to 70% by weight of acrylic acid, 1 to 3% by weight of an antistatic agent, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of a penetrant, 5 to 10% by weight of wax and water as the balance is used for water jet looms. Slope sizing is preferred.
상기 가호액에 호부착율 6~12%로 패딩 건조하여 경사용 실의 표면을 보호하면서 실의 내마모성의 향상, 사절방지, 정전기 발생 감소를 도모한다.The padding is dried at a coating rate of 6 to 12% in the sizing liquid to improve the abrasion resistance of the yarn, prevent thread breakage, and reduce static electricity while protecting the surface of the warp yarn.
상기 사이징공정 후 제직공정을 하는데, 20 데니어 기준 경사 및 위사로 경사밀도는 경사밀도 179~185본/인치이며, 위사밀도 185~190본/인치 평직조직으로 직물중량 33 ~ 38g/sqm, 커버팩터 18.0 ~ 18.5이 되도록 제직한다. After the sizing process, a weaving process is performed. The warp density is 179 to 185 yarns/inch with 20 denier standard warp and weft yarns, and the weft density is 185 to 190 yarns/inch, and the fabric weight is 33 to 38 g/sqm, cover factor Weave to be 18.0 ~ 18.5.
경사밀도 179본/인치, 위사밀도 185본/인치 미만시에는 다운프루프성이 저하되는 것으로 확인되어, 가공후 경사ㆍ위사의 밀도 밸런스를 1:1에 가깝게 제직되어야 경사ㅇ위사 교차점의 공극을 최소화할 수 있으며, 경사밀도 185본/인치, 위사밀도 190본/인치 초과시에는 마찰줄이 발생할 수 있다. It was confirmed that the downproof property deteriorates when the warp density is less than 179 yarns/inch and the weft density is less than 185 yarns/inch. If the warp density exceeds 185 yarns/inch and the weft density exceeds 190 yarns/inch, friction lines may occur.
본 발명의 위사의 Y형 또는 십자형 단면으로 인한 공기 저항과 낮은 섬도로 인해 송출압 불량이 발생될 수 있으므로 에어젯트 제직시에는 핀사 및 위사 늘어짐 사고가 다발되므로 유의해야한다.Since air resistance and low fineness due to the Y-shaped or cross-shaped cross section of the weft yarn of the present invention may cause delivery pressure defects, it should be noted that pin yarn and weft yarn sagging accidents occur frequently during air jet weaving.
이렇게 제직된 직물을 전처리액에 처리하여 직물의 백도를 향상시키는 전처리공정을 한다. 상기 전처리공정은 NaOH 30~100g/ℓ, 알칼리침투제 5~10g/ℓ, 산화호발제 10~15g/ℓ, 정련제 5~10g/ℓ, 탈유탈지제 5~10g/ℓ 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 전처리액에 처리하는 것이 백도(Whiteness)향상에 특히 바람직하다.A pre-treatment step is performed to improve the whiteness of the fabric by treating the woven fabric in a pre-treatment liquid. The pretreatment process includes NaOH 30 ~ 100g / ℓ, alkaline penetrating agent 5 ~ 10g / ℓ, oxidizing desizing agent 10 ~ 15g / ℓ, refining agent 5 ~ 10g / ℓ, deoiling agent 5 ~ 10g / ℓ and water as the balance. Treatment with liquid is particularly preferred for improving whiteness.
이후 정련, 염색을 하는데, 85~90℃의 정련조건에서 Whiteness가 우수하게 발현되었으며, 정련처리의 시간이 길어질수록 백도(Whiteness)가 2.5정도 낮아지는 것으로 볼 때, 단시간에 상압의 조건으로 정련하는 것이 전처리공정의 효율성에 있어서 바람직하다. 염색은 통상의 나일론 직물의 염색방법을 행하게 된다. After scouring and dyeing, whiteness was excellently expressed under the scouring condition of 85~90℃, and the longer the scouring time, the lower the whiteness by about 2.5. It is preferable in terms of the efficiency of the pretreatment process. Dyeing is carried out by the usual dyeing method of nylon fabric.
염색후에는 후처리가공을 하는데, 중진색의 경우 습윤견뢰도 향상을 위한 70~80℃에서 1~3%의 고착제처리 과정을 거친 후 후처리가공을 할 수도 있다. 후처리가공은 폴리우레탄계열 비불소 발수제 5~10중량%, 가교제 1~3중량%, 구연산 0.1~0.5중량%, 60~90%의 고농도 실리콘계의 인열증진제 0.5~1.5중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 후처리액에 처리하게 된다. 상기 고농도 실리콘계의 인열증진제는 조직 매꿈성이 우수하게 하며, DOWN PROOF의 증진효과와 크리즈 마크 현상을 줄일 수 있으며, 우수한 인열강도를 발현할 수 있게 된다. 0.5중량%미만에서는 상기 효과가 발현되기 어려우며, 1.5중량%를 초과하는 경우에는 너무 SOFTNESS와 표면의 촉감상 너무 미끌거림이 증가되어 패딩소재로서는 부적합하다.After dyeing, post-processing is performed. In the case of medium-dark colors, post-processing may be performed after processing 1-3% of a fixing agent at 70-80 ° C to improve wet fastness. The post-treatment process includes 5 to 10% by weight of a polyurethane-based fluorine-free water repellent, 1 to 3% by weight of a crosslinking agent, 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of citric acid, 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of a high-concentration silicone-based tear enhancer of 60 to 90%, and water as the balance. It is treated in a post-treatment liquid containing The high-concentration silicone-based tear enhancer makes tissue smoothness excellent, can reduce the DOWN PROOF enhancement effect and crease mark phenomenon, and can express excellent tear strength. If it is less than 0.5% by weight, it is difficult to express the above effect, and if it exceeds 1.5% by weight, the softness and slipperiness of the surface are too increased, making it unsuitable as a padding material.
이후 염색지의 전폭과 위사밀도를 확인하여, 염색지 기준 +0.5~1" 폭을 넓히고, 텐터기에서의 가공 오버피드 장치를 이용하여 오버피드를 +1~5%설정하고, 180~190℃, 30~60m/min으로 처리를 하여 건조시킨다. Then, check the overall width and weft density of the dyed paper, widen the dyed paper by +0.5~1", set the overfeed by +1~5% using the process overfeed device in the tenter machine, and set the temperature at 180~190℃, Dry it by treating it at 30~60m/min.
이후 직물의 공극을 최소화하여 Down-proof성이 우수한 고밀도 직물을 제조하기 위한 필수공정인 고온 열카렌다 가공을 하게 되는데, 상기 고온 열카렌다 가공은 작용 피스톤 압력을 60~100 TON, 가공속도 20~40M/min, 160 ~ 185℃에서 4~5회, 60~120℃로 1~2회 가공하는 것이 고온 건식 가공으로 인한 경화성 회복과 후처리액에 존재하는 고농도 실리콘계의 인열증진제로 인해 조직 매꿈성이 우수하여 DOWN PROOF의 증진효과와 크리즈 마크 현상을 줄일 수 있으며, 우수한 인열강도를 발현할 수 있게 된다. 그러나 열카렌다 가공의 횟수가 7회를 초과하게 되면 오히려 인열강도가 저하되는 현상을 보일 수 있다. Thereafter, high-temperature thermal calender processing is performed, which is an essential process for manufacturing high-density fabrics with excellent down-proof properties by minimizing air gaps in the fabric. /min, processing 4 to 5 times at 160 ~ 185 ℃ and 1 to 2 times at 60 ~ 120 ℃ restores curability due to high-temperature dry processing and improves tissue smoothness due to the high-concentration silicone-based tear enhancer present in the post-treatment liquid As it is excellent, it can reduce the effect of enhancing DOWN PROOF and the crease mark phenomenon, and it is possible to express excellent tear strength. However, if the number of thermal calendar processing exceeds 7 times, the tear strength may rather decrease.
즉, 열카렌다 가공전 염색지 기준규격 대비 가공지 규격이 확정 준수되어야 하는바, 이 부분의 중요성은 열 카렌다의 고온 과정에서 발생하기 쉬운 급수축 현상과 이로 인한 마찰줄 크리즈(CREASE)현상이 발생하는 주원인이 되므로, 1차 열카렌다후에는 반드시 전폭을 점검하여 전/후수축율 차이가 -3%이하로 관리 되어야 한다. -3.5%를 넘어가는 경우에는 급수축 현상으로 인한 마찰줄, 크리즈(CREASE) 현상이 발생되어 그이후의 추가적인 열 카렌다 가공 공정을 진행해도 없어지지 않고, 제품의 외관상 불량을 초래한다. In other words, before thermal calender processing, the processing paper standard compared to the dyeing paper standard must be finalized and followed. After the first thermal calendar, the overall width must be checked and the difference in shrinkage rate between the front and rear should be managed to be -3% or less. If it exceeds -3.5%, frictional lines and creases due to water supply and shrinkage occur, which do not disappear even after the additional heat calendering process, resulting in poor appearance of the product.
기존의 습식 건조방식의 열 카렌다도 시행될 수 있으나, 표면의 Hi Grossy광택이 떨어지고, 표면의 요철 현상으로 품위가 떨어지는 것으로 확인되었으므로, 건식 열 카렌다방식으로 수용하여야 하며, 주변의 습도의 영향에 따라 정전기 발생 소지가 있어 가습기 분무 장치와 이오나이저(ionizer)를 추가 설치 작업되어야 하며, 정상적 열 카렌다 과정을 마친 제품의 표면에 Hi Grossy 효과와 공기 투과도 0.2~0.8 CFM 과 DOWN PROOF성능상 우수한 성능을 유지하는 제품 생산이 가능하다.Conventional wet-drying thermal calendering can also be implemented, but it has been confirmed that the Hi Grossy gloss of the surface is degraded and the quality is deteriorated due to irregularities on the surface. There is a possibility of generating static electricity, so a humidifier spray device and an ionizer must be additionally installed, and the Hi Grossy effect and air permeability of 0.2 ~ 0.8 CFM and DOWN PROOF are maintained on the surface of the product that has completed the normal thermal calendar process. product production is possible.
본 발명은 기존의 DOWN PROOF 코팅 직물의 통기성 부족에 따른 DOWN의 썩는 문제를 해결할 수 있으며, 제직시 가공 규격을 역설계하여, 최종 열 카렌다 가공지가 경사 밀도와 위사밀도차이가 ±2% 이내로 설계하여야 경사ㆍ위사의 교착점에 발생되는 공극이 정사각형 모양을 이루게 하며, 여기에 고농도의 실리콘계 인열증진제가 가공 패딩(PADDING) 고르게 분포되어 고온 열 카렌다과정에서의 실리콘의 열적 수축 거동에 의한 조직의 메꿈성이 발현되어 공기 투과도가 유지되면서 고온 열 카렌다면을 표면으로 하는 HIGH GROSSY DOWN PROOF 직물을 제조할 수 있다. 또한, 별도의 후처리가공시 부여되는 화학물질이 없는 관계로 중량적 증감이 거의 없으며, 순수한 겉감지로서 보온성이 유지,관리되고 표면으로 열 카렌다 광택면을 사용함으로써, 시인성이 높은 고컬러티의 다운 프루프 패딩직물이 가능하다. The present invention can solve the problem of DOWN rotting due to the lack of air permeability of the existing DOWN PROOF coated fabric, reverse engineering the processing specifications during weaving, and design the final thermal calendar processed paper within ±2% of the warp density and weft density difference. Gaps generated at the intersection of warp and weft yarns form a square shape, and a high-concentration silicone-based tear enhancer is evenly distributed in the processing padding to fill the tissue due to the thermal shrinkage behavior of silicon during the high-temperature thermal calendering process. It is possible to manufacture a HIGH GROSSY DOWN PROOF fabric having a high-temperature thermal calender surface as a surface while maintaining air permeability. In addition, since there is no chemical substance applied during post-processing, there is almost no increase or decrease in weight, and as a pure outer material, heat retention is maintained and managed, and by using a thermal calendar glossy surface, high-visibility, high-color Down proof padding fabrics are available.
도 1은 본 발명의 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물인 실시예 1의 제품사진이며,
도 2는 종래의 일반사를 사용하여 제조한 다운프루프 직물인 비교예 1의 제품사진이며,
도 3은 실시예 1과 비교예 1의 직물의 세탁 회수에 따른 DOWN PROOF 시험 그래프이다.1 is a product picture of Example 1, which is an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using a modified cross-section recycled nylon yarn of the present invention,
2 is a product picture of Comparative Example 1, which is a down-proof fabric manufactured using conventional general yarn;
Figure 3 is a DOWN PROOF test graph according to the number of washings of the fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.
다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법의 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.In the following examples, a non-limiting example of a method for manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using the modified cross-section recycled nylon yarn of the present invention is given.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
열수축율 12%인 Y형 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사(SDY 20d/18f YFD, 태광산업사産, AIRUS®)를 경사로 사용하기 위해 아크릴산 40중량%, 대전방지제 1중량%, 침투제 0.03중량%, 왁스 5중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 가호액에 호부착율 8%로 패딩 건조하여 사이징공정을 한 후, 상기 경사와 동일한 나일론사를 위사로 공급하여 워터젯 직기를 사용하여 경사밀도 180본/인치이며, 위사밀도 185본/인치 평직조직으로 직물중량 38 g/sqm, 커버팩터 18.0이 되도록 제직하였다. 40 wt% acrylic acid, 1 wt % antistatic agent, 0.03 wt% penetrant, 5 wt% wax After padding and drying with a sizing ratio of 8% in a sizing solution containing % and water as the balance, a sizing process is performed, and then the same nylon yarn as the warp yarn is supplied as the weft yarn, and the warp density is 180 yarns / inch using a water jet loom, It was woven to have a fabric weight of 38 g/sqm and a cover factor of 18.0 with a weft density of 185 yarns/inch plain weave.
제직된 직물을 NaOH 50g/ℓ, 알칼리침투제 5g/ℓ, 산화호발제 10g/ℓ, 정련제 5g/ℓ, 탈유탈지제 5g/ℓ 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 전처리액에에 처리하여 직물의 백도를 향상시키는 전처리공정을 하였다.The woven fabric is treated with a pretreatment solution containing NaOH 50g/ℓ, alkali penetrant 5g/ℓ, oxidizing desizing agent 10g/ℓ, scouring agent 5g/ℓ, oil degreaser 5g/ℓ and water as the balance to improve the whiteness of the fabric. A pre-treatment process was performed.
이후 80~90℃의 정련조건에서 단시간에 상압의 조건으로 정련한 후, 산성염료를 이용하여 통상의 나일론 직물의 염색방법으로 행하였다. Thereafter, after scouring at 80 ~ 90 ° C. under conditions of atmospheric pressure for a short time, it was performed by a conventional dyeing method for nylon fabric using acid dyes.
염색후에는 폴리우레탄계열 비불소 발수제 6중량%, 가교제 1중량%,구연산 0.5중량%, 80%의 고농도 실리콘계의 인열증진제 0.5중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 후처리액에 처리하여 후처리가공을 한 후, 염색지의 전폭과 위사밀도를 확인하여, 염색지 기준 +0.5~1" 폭을 넓히고, 텐터기에서의 가공 오버피드 장치를 이용하여 오버피드를 +5%설정하고, 185℃, 40m/min으로 처리를 하여 건조시켰다. After dyeing, it is treated with a post-treatment liquid containing 6% by weight of polyurethane-based fluorine-free water repellent, 1% by weight of crosslinking agent, 0.5% by weight of citric acid, 0.5% by weight of 80% high-concentration silicone-based tear enhancer, and water as the balance, followed by post-treatment. After doing this, check the overall width and weft density of the dyeing paper, widen the dyeing paper by +0.5 ~ 1" width, set the overfeed by +5% using the processing overfeed device in the tenter machine, 185℃, 40m /min and dried.
이후 가공속도 30M/min, 180℃에서 4회, 100℃로 2회 열 카렌다 가공하여 다운프루프 직물을 제조하였다.Thereafter, a down-proof fabric was prepared by thermal calendering at a processing speed of 30 M/min, 4 times at 180° C. and 2 times at 100° C.
[비교예 1][Comparative Example 1]
노말 FDY 사(Normal FDY 20/24 FD)를 사용하여 실시예 1과 동일하게 다운프루프 직물을 제조하였다.A down-proof fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 using Normal FDY yarn (Normal FDY 20/24 FD).
상기 실시예 1 및 비교예 1의 물성을 측정하여 하기 표 1에 비교하였다. 도 2에 도시된 바와 같이 실시에 1(SDY 20/18 YFD)은 세탁횟수가 3회를 초과할수록 깃솜털투과성이 비교예 1(Normal FDY 20/24 FD)에 비해 매우 우수함을 나타내고 있다.The physical properties of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were measured and compared in Table 1 below. As shown in FIG. 2, Example 1 (SDY 20/18 YFD) shows that the down and down permeability is very superior to Comparative Example 1 (Normal FDY 20/24 FD) as the number of washings exceeds 3 times.
Claims (5)
상기 경사 및 위사로 경사밀도는 경사밀도 179~185본/인치이며, 위사밀도 185~190본/인치 평직조직으로 직물중량 33 ~ 75g/sqm, 커버팩터 18.0 ~ 18.5이 되도록 제직한 후,
전처리액에 처리하여 직물의 백도를 향상시키는 전처리공정을 한 후,
정련, 염색후, 고농도의 실리콘 인열증진제 0.5~1.5중량%함유한 후처리액에 패딩(PADDING)처리하여 후처리가공하고, 염색지 기준 +0.5~1" 폭을 넓히고, 텐터기에서 오버피드를 +1~5%설정하고, 180~190℃, 30~60m/min으로 처리를 한 후, 고온 열카렌다 가공하는 것을 특징으로 하는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법.As the warp and weft yarns, Y-shaped or cross-shaped modified cross-section recycled nylon yarns are used, and after sizing the warp yarns,
The warp and weft yarns have a warp density of 179 to 185 yarns/inch and a weft density of 185 to 190 yarns/inch in a plain weave structure with a fabric weight of 33 to 75 g/sqm and a cover factor of 18.0 to 18.5 After weaving,
After the pretreatment process of improving the whiteness of the fabric by treating it with the pretreatment liquid,
After scouring and dyeing, post-processing is performed by padding in a post-treatment liquid containing 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of a high-concentration silicone tear enhancer. A method of manufacturing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using a modified cross-section recycled nylon yarn, characterized by setting +1 to 5%, processing at 180 to 190 ° C, 30 to 60 m / min, and then processing with a high temperature thermal calender.
상기 사이징공정은 아크릴산 30~70중량%, 대전방지제 1~3중량%, 침투제 0.01~0.5중량%, 왁스 5~10중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 가호액에 호부착율 6~12%로 패딩하는 것을 특징으로 하는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법.According to claim 1,
The sizing process has a sizing rate of 6 to 12% in a sizing solution containing 30 to 70% by weight of acrylic acid, 1 to 3% by weight of an antistatic agent, 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of a penetrant, 5 to 10% by weight of wax, and water as the balance. A method for producing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using a modified cross-section recycled nylon yarn, characterized in that padding.
상기 전처리공정은 NaOH 30~100g/ℓ, 알칼리침투제 5~10g/ℓ, 산화호발제 10~15g/ℓ, 정련제 5~10g/ℓ, 탈유탈지제 5~10g/ℓ 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 전처리액에 처리하는 것을 특징으로 하는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법.According to claim 1,
The pretreatment process includes NaOH 30 ~ 100g / ℓ, alkaline penetrating agent 5 ~ 10g / ℓ, oxidizing desizing agent 10 ~ 15g / ℓ, refining agent 5 ~ 10g / ℓ, deoiling agent 5 ~ 10g / ℓ and water as the balance. A method for producing an eco-friendly down-proof fabric using a modified cross-section recycled nylon yarn, characterized in that it is treated with a liquid.
상기 후처리가공시 후처리액은 폴리우레탄계열 비불소 발수제 5~10중량%, 가교제 1~3중량%,구연산 0.1~0.5중량%, 60~90%의 고농도 실리콘계의 인열증진제 0.5~1.5중량% 및 잔부로서 물을 함유하는 후처리액인 것을 특징으로 하는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법.According to claim 1,
In the post-treatment process, the post-treatment liquid contains 5 to 10% by weight of a polyurethane-based non-fluorine water repellent, 1 to 3% by weight of a crosslinking agent, 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of citric acid, and 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of a high-concentration silicone-based tear enhancer of 60 to 90%. and a post-treatment liquid containing water as the balance.
상기 고온 열카렌다 가공은 작용 피스톤 압력을 60~100 TON, 가공속도30~40M/min, 160 ~ 185℃에서 4~5회, 60~120℃로 1~2회 가공하는 것을 특징으로 하는 이형단면 리사이클 나일론사를 사용한 친환경 다운프루프 직물의 제조방법.According to claim 1,
The high-temperature thermal calender processing is a molded section, characterized in that the working piston pressure is 60 ~ 100 TON, processing speed 30 ~ 40M / min, 4 ~ 5 times at 160 ~ 185 ℃, 1 ~ 2 times at 60 ~ 120 ℃ Manufacturing method of eco-friendly down-proof fabric using recycled nylon thread.
Priority Applications (1)
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Citations (4)
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JP2008303479A (en) | 2007-06-06 | 2008-12-18 | Japan Vilene Co Ltd | Inner fabric for down, inner bag for down, and down-proof structure using the same |
JP2011021309A (en) | 2009-06-18 | 2011-02-03 | Toray Ind Inc | Down proof woven fabric |
JP2013155454A (en) | 2012-01-30 | 2013-08-15 | Toray Ind Inc | Recycled polyamide crimped yarn and method for producing the same |
KR101962392B1 (en) | 2018-02-26 | 2019-03-26 | 주식회사 나경 | Process Of Producing High Tenacity Polyester Fabrics For Parachute |
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KR20160113347A (en) * | 2015-03-18 | 2016-09-29 | 대한방직 주식회사 | Process Of Producing Non-coating Down-proof Fabric for Ultra Light |
KR20170091221A (en) * | 2016-01-29 | 2017-08-09 | 주식회사 효성 | Method for preparing down-proof fabric and down-proof fabric prepared thereby |
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Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2008303479A (en) | 2007-06-06 | 2008-12-18 | Japan Vilene Co Ltd | Inner fabric for down, inner bag for down, and down-proof structure using the same |
JP2011021309A (en) | 2009-06-18 | 2011-02-03 | Toray Ind Inc | Down proof woven fabric |
JP2013155454A (en) | 2012-01-30 | 2013-08-15 | Toray Ind Inc | Recycled polyamide crimped yarn and method for producing the same |
KR101962392B1 (en) | 2018-02-26 | 2019-03-26 | 주식회사 나경 | Process Of Producing High Tenacity Polyester Fabrics For Parachute |
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