KR102564080B1 - Cosmetic compositions with anti-aging effects and their manufacturing methods - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition having an anti-aging effect and a method for preparing the same are disclosed. The cosmetic compositions of Examples have excellent anti-aging effects in wrinkle improvement and whitening applications by using Asian plant materials together with adenosine.
As it contains lipids such as ceramide in a high content, it has excellent percutaneous absorption of adenosine.

Description

Cosmetic compositions with anti-aging effects and their manufacturing methods {Cosmetic compositions with anti-aging effects and their manufacturing methods}

The following examples relate to a cosmetic composition having an anti-aging effect and a manufacturing method technology thereof.

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and occupies about 16% of the total human body volume. plays a protective role. However, with age, skin cells are damaged due to various pollutants, strong ultraviolet rays, stress, and nutritional deficiency, and cell proliferation is not performed properly, resulting in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and keratinization of the skin.

Skin aging is largely divided into intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging (Cosmetics & Toiletories, 111:31-37 (1996)). Intrinsic aging is a naturally occurring aging phenomenon caused by a gradual decline in the physiological function of the skin with age, clinically characterized by a decrease in elasticity, rough skin texture, formation of deep wrinkles, and deposition of pigment (Arch Dermatol., 130:87-95 (1994)). Extrinsic aging refers to an aging phenomenon caused by external factors such as ultraviolet rays, reactive oxygen species, and stress. Aging of the skin progresses rapidly due to these factors, and as a result, rough wrinkles are formed on the skin surface and elasticity is significantly reduced.

Several studies have been conducted to identify the aging mechanism of the skin, and various causes of skin aging have been identified. When the skin is dried by a change in temperature, a drop in humidity, wind, or the like, the physiological activity of the skin as a barrier against the outside is reduced, and aging is accelerated. In addition, when the skin is exposed to harmful reactive oxygen species or free radicals, lipid peroxides are produced by oxidation in the body and various proteins constituting the skin are modified. On the other hand, collagen, which accounts for most of the skin dermis (about 70-80% of the total skin dry weight) and elastin protein with high elasticity, are major proteins produced by fibroblasts and are involved in mechanical firmness of the skin, tissue cohesiveness and elasticity in the dermal layer of the skin. (Journal of the american academy of dermatology, 21:610-613(1989)). Collagen shows a quantitative decrease as age increases and exposure to ultraviolet rays increases. Collagen is classified according to its morphology and structural characteristics, of which types I, II, III and IV are best characterized. Collagen types I and III constitute the cellular matrix of the dermal layer, and collagen type IV is the main constituent of DEJ (Dermal Epidermal Junction). DEJ is located between the epidermal layer and the dermal layer of the skin and controls the permeation and transport of substances between the two layers, controls the differentiation of adjacent skin cells, and maintains the firmness of the skin. Collagen and elastin, which are the main structural components of the skin, are structurally denatured or biosynthesized by natural or external stimuli, which accelerates skin aging. In addition, the expression level and activity of collagenase are also major factors that accelerate skin aging.

Collagen synthesis-stimulating substances have been previously used such as retinoic acid, epidermal growth factor (EGF), trans-forming growth factor (TGF), and oncogenic growth factor (Cardinale G. et al., Adv. Enzymol., 41 , p. 425, 1974), animal placenta-derived protein (JP8-231370), betulinic acid (JP8-208424), chlorella extract (JP9-40523, JP10-36283, fibroblast proliferation promoting action), etc. It is known. In particular, epidermal growth factor acts as a strong promoter of epithelial cell, endothelial cell, and fibroblast cell proliferation, and has an excellent wound healing effect because it promotes the migration and proliferation of epithelial cells in case of epithelial cell defect. In addition, retinol is very effective in inhibiting collagen synthesis and decomposition, and its effect on improving skin wrinkles is specified in US Patent Nos. 4,603,146 and 4,877,805. However, in the case of retinoic acid, it is unstable, and there is a limit to the amount of use due to stability problems such as irritation and redness when applied to the skin, and the effect of chlorella extract and the like is insignificant, so that the effect of improving skin function cannot be expected by substantially promoting collagen synthesis in the skin. Therefore, there is an urgent need for the development of a new collagen synthesis promoter that is safe for the living body and has a higher effect than the existing collagen synthesis ability promoter.

In this situation, the present inventors developed a combination of cosmetic active ingredients having anti-aging effects for wrinkle improvement and whitening using Asian plant materials along with adenosine, and completed the present invention by deriving an optimal formulation for this.

Korean Patent Publication KR20090078084A

The problem to be solved in the present application is to provide a formulation of cosmetic active ingredients having anti-aging effects for wrinkle improvement and whitening using Asian plant materials together with adenosine.

The purpose is to derive an optimal formulation with the above formulation and increased percutaneous absorption of adenosine.

As one aspect for solving the above problems, the present invention provides an anti-aging cosmetic composition comprising adenosine, a boswellia resin extract, and a Japanese knotweed extract as active ingredients.

As an example, hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, ceramide EP, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, phytosphingosine, and lipid containing cholesterol can

As an example, the cosmetic composition may be used for wrinkle improvement and whitening.

The cosmetic composition may include 30 to 50 parts by weight of adenosine, 20 to 35 parts by weight of Boswellia resin extract, and 200 to 300 parts by weight of Knotweed root extract as active ingredients.

The cosmetic composition may include 0.03 to 0.05% by weight of adenosine, 0.020 to 0.035% by weight of Boswellia resin extract, and 0.200 to 0.300% by weight of Knotweed root extract as active ingredients.

The cosmetic composition contains 0.90 to 1.10% by weight of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.50 to 0.70% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, 0.35 to 0.45% by weight of stearic acid, 0.000001 to 0.000003% by weight of ceramide EOP, and 0.002 to 0.004% by weight of ceramide NS. 0.005 to 0.016% by weight of ceramide NP, 0.0005 to 0.002% by weight of Ceramide AS, 0.0005 to 0.0020% by weight of Ceramide AP, 0.001 to 0.003% by weight of phytosphingosine, and 0.001 to 0.003% by weight of cholesterol.

An apparatus according to an embodiment may be combined with hardware and controlled by a computer program stored in a medium to execute any one of the methods described above.

The cosmetic compositions of Examples have excellent anti-aging effects in wrinkle improvement and whitening applications by using Asian plant materials together with adenosine.

It has an excellent transdermal absorption effect of adenosine as it contains lipids such as ceramide in a high content.

Hereinafter, embodiments will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, since various changes can be made to the embodiments, the scope of the patent application is not limited or limited by these embodiments. It should be understood that all changes, equivalents or substitutes to the embodiments are included within the scope of rights.

Specific structural or functional descriptions of the embodiments are disclosed for illustrative purposes only, and may be modified and implemented in various forms. Therefore, the embodiments are not limited to the specific disclosed form, and the scope of the present specification includes changes, equivalents, or substitutes included in the technical spirit.

Although terms such as first or second may be used to describe various components, such terms should only be construed for the purpose of distinguishing one component from another. For example, a first element may be termed a second element, and similarly, a second element may be termed a first element.

It should be understood that when an element is referred to as being “connected” to another element, it may be directly connected or connected to the other element, but other elements may exist in the middle.

Terms used in the examples are used only for descriptive purposes and should not be construed as limiting. Singular expressions include plural expressions unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. In this specification, terms such as "include" or "have" are intended to designate that there is a feature, number, step, operation, component, part, or combination thereof described in the specification, but one or more other features It should be understood that the presence or addition of numbers, steps, operations, components, parts, or combinations thereof is not precluded.

Unless defined otherwise, all terms used herein, including technical or scientific terms, have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person of ordinary skill in the art to which the embodiment belongs. Terms such as those defined in commonly used dictionaries should be interpreted as having a meaning consistent with the meaning in the context of the related art, and unless explicitly defined in the present application, they should not be interpreted in an ideal or excessively formal meaning. don't

Advantages and features of the present invention, and methods of achieving them, will become clear with reference to the detailed description of the following embodiments taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. However, the present invention is not limited to the embodiments disclosed below, but will be implemented in various different forms, only these embodiments make the disclosure of the present invention complete, and common knowledge in the art to which the present invention belongs. It is provided to fully inform the holder of the scope of the invention, and the present invention is only defined by the scope of the claims.

In the embodiments of the present invention, unless otherwise defined, all terms used herein, including technical or scientific terms, are the same as those commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention belongs. It has meaning. Terms such as those defined in commonly used dictionaries should be interpreted as having a meaning consistent with the meaning in the context of the related art, and unless explicitly defined in the embodiments of the present invention, an ideal or excessively formal meaning not be interpreted as

The shapes, sizes, ratios, angles, numbers, etc. disclosed in the drawings for explaining the embodiments of the present invention are illustrative, so the present invention is not limited to the details shown. In addition, in describing the present invention, if it is determined that a detailed description of related known technologies may unnecessarily obscure the subject matter of the present invention, the detailed description will be omitted. When 'includes', 'has', 'consists of', etc. mentioned in this specification is used, other parts may be added unless 'only' is used. In the case where a component is expressed in the singular, the case including the plural is included unless otherwise explicitly stated.

In interpreting the components, even if there is no separate explicit description, it is interpreted as including the error range.

The size and thickness of each component shown in the drawings are shown for convenience of description, and the present invention is not necessarily limited to the size and thickness of the illustrated components.

Each feature of the various embodiments of the present invention can be partially or entirely combined or combined with each other, and as those skilled in the art can fully understand, various interlocking and driving operations are possible, and each embodiment can be implemented independently of each other. It may be possible to implement together in an association relationship.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention and its effects will be described in more detail through specific examples and comparative examples. However, these examples are for explaining the present invention in more detail, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Preparation Example 1. Preparation and formulation of raw materials

(1) Preparation of Boswellia resin extract

Boswellia serrata rubber resin (100 g) was dispersed in 600 mL of acetone solvent and stirred at room temperature for 60 minutes. Insoluble rubbery material was removed by filtration. The acetone solution was repeatedly extracted with 2% KOH solution (3 x 200 mL) to remove acidic compounds. The obtained material was evaporated under reduced pressure at 70° C. and volatile components were removed from the oily residue under vacuum at 80° C. to give a Boswellia resin extract as a viscous oil (10 g).

(2) Preparation of Korean knotweed extract

After crushing the knotweed root by drying in the shade, 5 times 70% (v/v) ethanol aqueous solution was added to 100 g of the crushed material and extracted at room temperature for 3 days. The extract obtained by extraction was filtered with whatman #5 filter paper. The filtered extract was concentrated under reduced pressure and freeze-dried at 50° C. or less to prepare a Korean knotweed extract.

(3) Preparation of the formulation

Adenosine was obtained and mixed with the Boswellia resin extract and Knotweed root extract in the composition shown in Table 1 to obtain a formulation.

adenosine boswellia resin extract Knotweed Root Extract Purified water sample 1 0.4% by weight 0.3% by weight 2.5% by weight To 100 sample 2 0.4% by weight 0.3% by weight To 100 sample 3 0.4% by weight 2.5% by weight To 100

Experimental Example 1. Cytotoxicity test

A cytotoxicity test was performed to verify the safety of the combination. The B16-F10 cell line was dispensed in 500 μL into each well at a concentration of 1×10 ⁵ cells/mL in a 24-well plate and cultured in a 37°C 5% CO ₂ incubator for 24 hours. treated and cultured for 24 hours.

After that, 20 μL of 　MTT solution dissolved in PBS buffer was added and reacted for 4 hours to confirm the formation of formazan. After completely removing the medium, 100 μL of solubilization solution was added to dissolve all of the formazan, and ELISA reader (Synergy HTX Multi -Mode Reader, Bio-tex, USA) to measure the absorbance at 570 nm. Relative cell viability was obtained when the viability of control cells cultured without treatment with the components was 100%.

relative survival rate sample 1 97.5% sample 2 96.3% sample 3 93.8%

As above, it was confirmed that sample 1 had the highest cell viability.

Experimental Example 2. Collagen synthesis enhancement effect

Normal human fibroblasts (Korea Cell Line Bank) were inoculated into each well of a 96-well microplate to become 2 x 10 ⁴ cells, and cultured in DMEM medium at 37°C for 24 hours. Then, the experimental group replaced with serum-free DMEM medium containing the prepared formulation at a final concentration of 0.05% by weight and the control group replaced with serum-free DMEM medium without the formulation were further cultured for 48 hours. After culturing, the amount of newly synthesized collagen was measured by collecting the supernatant of each well and measuring the amount of procollagen type I C-peptide (PICP) using a kit (Takara, Japan). The amount of PICP was converted into ng/2x10 ⁴ cells, and the results are shown in Table 3 below.

Amount of collagen synthesis (ng/2 x 10 ⁴ ) sample 1 372 sample 2 241 sample 3 205

As described above, it was confirmed that an excellent amount of collagen synthesis was exhibited when all three components were included in Sample 1.

Experimental Example 3. Measurement of melanin production

In order to evaluate the melanin production inhibitory effect of the samples in Table 1 on the B16-F10 cell line, the cell line was added to a 6-well plate at 3X10 ⁵ cells/well by 2 mL and then cultured for 24 hours. Next, 80 μL of the formulation shown in Table 1 was treated, and 80 μL of arbutin at a concentration of 1 mM was treated as a positive control. After treating the cells with 100 nM of α-MSH and stimulating the cells for 72 days, melanin produced inside and outside the cells was measured. Extracellular secreted melanin (Extracellular melanin) was measured at 405 nm by transferring 100 μL of the culture medium to a 96 well plate. Intracellular melanin formed in cells was harvested by treating the cultured cells with 0.25% Trypsin-EDTA solution, centrifuged (10,000 rpm, 4 ℃ for 5 minutes, and then 1 N NaOH (10% DMSO) was added, and melanin in cells was dissolved at 80° C. for 60 minutes, and the amount of melanin produced was measured in the same manner at 405 nm, and is shown in Table 4 below.

relative melanin production control group 100% sample 1 58.1% sample 2 27.4% sample 3 36.2% Arbutin treatment group 41.7%

As described above, it was expected to exhibit excellent whitening function when all three components were included in Sample 1.

Preparation Example 2. Example and Comparative Examples Preparation of cosmetic composition

The cosmetic composition of Example 1 was prepared with the following formulation.

No. Ingredients (INCI Name) RM or ingredient % in fl Ingredients % in RM Actual Wt (%) One Water 57.740 100 57.74000000 2 Butylene Glycol 10.000 100 10.00000000 3 Glycerin 5.000 100 5.00000000 4 Adenosine 0.040 100 0.04000000 5 Disodium EDTA 0.020 100 0.02000000 6 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 1.000 100 1.00000000 7 Glyceryl Stearate SE 0.500 100 0.50000000 8 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.000 5 0.10000000 Cetearyl Glucoside 50 1.00000000 Sorbitan Olivate 45 0.90000000 9 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 1.500 100 1.50000000 10 Isostearyl Alcohol 2.000 59.5 1.19000000 Butylene Glycol Cocoate 37.5 0.75000000 Ethylcellulose 3 0.06000000 11 C10-18 Triglycerides 1.000 100 1.00000000 12 Hydrogenated Lecithin 2.000 49 0.98000000 Cetearyl Alcohol 30 0.60000000 Stearic Acid 19.9999 0.39999800 Ceramide EOP 0.0001 0.00000200 Ceramide NS 0.15 0.00300000 Ceramide NP 0.55 0.01100000 Ceramide AS 0.05 0.00100000 Ceramide AP 0.05 0.00100000 Phytosphingosine 0.1 0.00200000 Cholesterol 0.1 0.00200000 13 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 5.000 100 5.00000000 14 Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 7.000 100 7.00000000 15 Simethicone 2.000 100 2.00000000 16 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.500 100 1.50000000 17 Butylene Glycol 0.700 75.5 0.52850000 1,2-Hexanediol 20.5 0.14350000 Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract 4 0.02800000 18 Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract 0.500 49 0.24500000 Dipropylene Glycol 49 0.24500000 1,2-Hexanediol 2 0.01000000 19 Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate 0.500 40 0.20000000 Hydrogenated Polydecene 18 0.09000000 Trideceth-10 2 0.01000000 Water 40 0.20000000

Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were prepared by varying the ratio of stearic acid and ceramide in Example 1 as shown in Table 6.

Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Stearic Acid 19.9999 20.0000 19.9999 Ceramide EOP 0.0001 - 0.0001 Ceramide NS 0.15 0.15 - Ceramide NP 0.55 0.55 0.80 Ceramide AS 0.05 0.05 - Ceramide AP 0.05 0.05 -

Experimental Example 4. In vitro skin absorption test

In order to measure the percutaneous absorption of adenosine in the cosmetic composition, the in vitro skin absorption test guidelines (Ministry of Food and Drug Safety) were followed. The in vitro skin absorption test method confirms that the test substance passes through the skin. It is a method of applying or applying the test substance to the surface of the skin and measuring the amount moved to the solution reservoir inside the skin after a certain period of time. Multicellular animal skin or artificial skin may be used. In particular, in the case of using artificial skin, it is possible to perform repeated measurements on the test substance, and it is possible to study exposure conditions without using laboratory animals. The in vitro skin absorption test can compare skin absorption and permeation according to the composition of the substance, and can be used as a useful model for risk assessment by skin absorption in the human body.

Using an artificial Membrane Strat-M for percutaneous absorption test manufactured by Millipore (USA), the test was performed by attaching it to a Franz-Diffusion Cell and System (Perme gear, USA). In the Franz-Diffusion Cell, the donor chamber was kept unsealed with para film under non-occluded conditions.

Each test substance was mixed with a solvent, loaded into a donating chamber, and after a certain period of time, a sample (adenosine) was taken from the membrane and reservoir, and the components were analyzed by HPLC to confirm the skin permeability of the test substance. In addition, the residual amount remaining on the skin was measured.

Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were treated on artificial skin at a concentration of 5,000 ppm, and after 4 hours, the degree of skin permeation was measured and shown in Table 7.

Reservoir Membrane 5,000ppm 20.7% 38.6% Example 1 13.6% 35.5% Comparative Example 1 17.8% 25.7% Comparative Example 2

When ceramide EOP was not used, the ratio of the amount delivered to the reservoir was low, and when ceramide NS, AP, and AP were not used, the ratio of the amount delivered to the membrane was low, resulting in low dermal penetration. In the case of using the formulation of Example 1, it was found that there was an excellent permeation effect.

Claims (3)

A cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles and whitening, comprising 0.03 to 0.05% by weight of adenosine, 0.020 to 0.035% by weight of Boswellia resin extract, and 0.200 to 0.300% by weight of Knotweed root extract as active ingredients,
Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.90 to 1.10 wt%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.50 to 0.70 wt%, Stearic Acid 0.35 to 0.45 wt%, Ceramide EOP 0.000001 to 0.000003 wt%, Ceramide NS 0.002 to 0.004 wt%, Ceramide NP 0 .005 to 0.016% by weight, 0.0005 to 0.002% by weight of Ceramide AS, 0.0005 to 0.0020% by weight of Ceramide AP, 0.001 to 0.003% by weight of phytosphingosine, and 0.001 to 0.003% by weight of cholesterol, wrinkle improvement and A cosmetic composition for whitening.

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