KR102052230B1 - Cosmetic method for lightening the skin and/or lips - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides for the lightening and / or homogenization of the color of the skin and / or the lips in particular, comprising applying to the skin or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the shadows around the eyes, at least one layer of the cosmetic composition comprising Non-therapeutic cosmetic methods for: (i) a content of at least 1% by weight, preferably strictly above and preferably 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. At least non-interfering scattering white particles, characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, and (ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of at least 2.3 , Preferably particles having a refractive index strictly greater than.

Description

Beauty methods for lightening skin and / or lips {COSMETIC METHOD FOR LIGHTENING THE SKIN AND / OR LIPS}

The present invention relates to the field of non-therapeutic cosmetic lightening (also called brightening), in particular complexion of the complexion of the color of the skin and / or lips, resulting in a natural and transparent makeup without the introduction of materials.

Cosmetic or dermatologists who have pigmented skin or exhibit pigmented blemishes, rosacea, or shadows around the eyes typically want to correct this skin aberration and, for this purpose, allow complexion lightening and homogenization. For use. To this end, it is a known practice to use cosmetic compositions comprising whitening agents.

The substances most commonly used as whitening agents are hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, arbutin and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (for example magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascor Bill glucoside) alone or in combination with other active agents.

However, in order to observe the whitening effect on the skin, it is essential to use these agents in large amounts for a long time. In addition, no immediate effect is observed upon application of the compositions comprising them.

It is a known practice to use products containing interference pigments that can mask skin defects, especially pigmented defects, but present a major disadvantage of giving the skin a shiny, unnatural appearance. In addition, these pigments have a unique feature that gives them a pearlescent appearance and strongly color the products in which they are present.

It is also known to use a composition consisting of a powder dispersed in a binder as a cosmetic composition capable of making the complexion uniform and optionally providing an immediate white appearance. Powders are generally fillers of different shapes (leafy, spherical), depending on the desired effect, white pigments (titanium dioxide) or colored pigments (iron oxide), and / or depending on the desired effect.

One method consists in depositing a white pigment, generally nanotitanium dioxide, which forms the basis of an "immediate whitening" type of cosmetic product: these products are characterized by ΔL> +1 (brightness).

Another more recent method consists of combining titanium oxide and iron oxide with a very low saturation hue, in contrast to conventional foundations. In this way, once the product is applied, the combination of the color of the product and the color of the skin results in a slightly less saturated appearance of the color, resulting in lightening of the skin. This is the method of "BB Cream-Balm Blemish Cream" product. These products are characterized by ΔC <−1 (desaturation).

The complexion is thus essentially uniform due to the coverage provided by the pigments and fillers. A disadvantage of such compositions is that the alleviation of skin defects, in particular colored defects, is provided by the coverage of the composition. The makeup thus made loses the natural appearance of the skin due to the lack of transparency of these compositions.

Thus there is still a need for a cosmetic composition which results in instant perceivable lightening of the color without material effects and which is intended to be applied topically to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin and / or the surrounding shadows or eye contours of the face.

Surprisingly, we have demonstrated that the use of an effective amount of white particles as defined in accordance with the present invention has a natural effect, once applied, resulting in a very large perception of lightening of the color of the skin or lips. The term used is lightening without material effect or "transparent white" lightening.

As such, the compositions of the present invention are characterized by increased brightness (ΔL> +1), loss of saturation (ΔC <−1) and high transparency that are not observed in existing cosmetic products, as far as the applicant company knows.

Indeed, these particles show a very special balance between light scattering and opacity and make it possible to form formulations containing high amounts of conventional white particles but which do not lead to unnatural consequences in application.

The present invention comprises 0.3, in a physiologically acceptable medium, in an amount of at least 1% by weight, preferably strictly greater than 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. At least non-interfering scattering white particles having a volume-average size (D50) of μm to 40 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, and 0% to 2% by weight, of at least 2.3, preferably strictly greater than In particular skin and / or comprising applying one or more layers of a composition comprising particles having a refractive index (such as titanium dioxide or iron oxide) to the skin and / or lips, especially the skin of the face and / or the periphery of the eye Or non-therapeutic cosmetic methods for lightening and / or homogenizing the color of the lips, in particular the complexion.

According to the invention 'lightening (or brightening) and / or homogenization of the skin and / or lips' is to maintain the natural effect (transparency) of the skin and / or lips, in particular to the skin and / or lips, especially the color of the face. Means the effect of the composition.

This effect of the composition on color and colored defects (e.g., peri-eye spots or shadows ...) is distinguished from the homogenizing effect by blurring, also called the 'soft focus' effect, which does not involve color changes. Indeed, the compositions of the present invention are expected to alter or locally change the color characteristics of the face by lightening the complexion, by weakening spots around the eyes or by the shadow color, and are not intended for the 'blurring' effect.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied alone or before application of a care product or makeup product.

The invention also relates to lightening and / or homogenizing agents of skin and / or lip colors, in particular complexion, which exhibits an immediate effect, for example by lightening of the complexion or by weakening of spot or shadow color visibility around the eyes, It relates to the use of an effective amount of such particles in a cosmetic composition.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising said non-interfering scattering white particles characterized by the specific optical properties of the coverage and transparency of the makeup surface.

In particular, another subject matter of the present invention includes, in particular, a physiologically acceptable medium, for example exhibiting at least 75% transmittance and at least 0.1 coverage efficiency (contrast / permeability) according to the measurement protocols disclosed below. The cosmetic composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, is:

(i) a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, of a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; Interference scattering white particles,

(ii) 0 to 2% by weight of particles having a refractive index of at least 2.3, preferably strictly greater than.

According to a particularly preferred form, boron nitride particles having a volume-average size D50 of less than 6 μm, preferably 0.3 to 6 μm, especially 1.5 to 5 μm, preferably 1.5 to 3 μm, such as Saint Gobain Ceramics The one sold under the name PUHP1030L will be used.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, advantageously having at least 75% transmission and at least 0.1 coverage efficiency (contrast / transmittance), for example according to the measurement protocols described below. It relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion:

(i) a volume-average size (D50) of from 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of from 1.7 to 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Interference scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride particles,

(ii) 0 to 2% by weight of particles having a refractive index of at least 2.3, preferably strictly greater than.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the following after application to the skin and / or lips, for example according to the measurement protocols disclosed herein, increasing brightness ΔL> +1 and loss of saturation ΔC It relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which results in <-1

(i) a volume-average size (D50) of from 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of from 1.7 to 2.2, in a preferred content of 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Interference scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride particles,

(ii) 0 to 2% by weight of particles having a refractive index of at least 2.3, preferably strictly greater than.

The compositions of the present invention advantageously provide a high level of transparency (transmittance), giving a natural effect as a makeup result, without the mask effect.

The effect of the compositions of the present invention on skin color can be measured by the following protocol:

100 mg of this composition is applied to the half-face. Subsequently, the measurement is carried out with a Chromasphere apparatus and method having a resolution of 410 x 410 pixels described in patent FR 2 829 344. 100 mg of the composition of L * (brightness) and C * (saturation) in the CIELab76 system before and after application with a bare finger over a 4 cm x 4 cm surface area containing only a cheek to the half of the face. The measurement is carried out in a standardized manner at 20 ° C. This is done on both balls.

The composition according to the invention provides high clarity, associated with increased brightness ΔL> +1 and loss of saturation ΔC <−1 and advantageously associated with a makeup effect (natural effect) that lightens and / or homogenizes the color without a mask effect.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of gels, serums, direct, inverse and multiple emulsions, hot-cast sticks, or loose or compact powders.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to immediately provide an improved quality in terms of uniformity, uniformity, transparency and whiteness to the skin or lips to be applied, in particular to the complexion. Compositions according to the invention may also exhibit concealing properties.

The composition according to the invention can also make it possible to reduce the perception of colored blemishes of the skin, in particular red spots.

Non-interfering Scattering White Particles

The term "scattering particles" is understood to mean particles which exhibit light scattering which does not show a deflected direction. As a result, particles exhibiting optical interference effects, known as "interfering" particles, are very particularly excluded therefrom. Likewise, particles which exhibit a shiny effect, such as metal particles or particles which exhibit a metallic effect, such as bismuth oxcyclolide, are excluded therefrom.

The term "white" means particles having white color and its derivative color (yellow white, aabaster white, etc.) and are understood to be contrasted with the primary and derivative colors.

In particular, the white particles have a lightness value L * close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

Scattering white particles according to the invention exhibit an average refractive index of 1.7 to 2.2. This is because when the particles have a refractive index of greater than 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and when the refractive index is less than 1.7, the lightening effect is not sufficient.

The white particles according to the invention have a continuous effect, controlled by the resolution ability of the eye. Since the capacity is about 40 μm, particles with a volume-average size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably less than 25 μm, even more preferably 6 μm or less are contemplated. However, in order that the loss of opacity is not too large, which can be extremely harmful to the desired effect, particles with a D50 of more than 0.3 μm, preferentially more than 0.5 μm should be selected.

As such, the compositions of the present invention have an average refractive index of 1.7 to 2.2 and a volume size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably 0.3 to 25 μm, even more preferably 0.3 to 6 μm, in fact even 0.5 to 3 μm. At least white particles having.

These particles may consist of one material or may be a composite material. For example, these particles can be boron nitride having an average refractive index of 1.74. They also have composite particles, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particles, poly, including titanium dioxide and substrates selected from alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica with an average refractive index of 1.7 to 2.2. Tetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles or mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.

According to another embodiment, the particle is a composite particle comprising titanium dioxide and an alumina substrate.

According to another embodiment, the particle is a composite particle comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.

Non-interfering scattering white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having a volume-average size of 0.3 to 6 μm.

The non-interfering scattering white particles may correspond to from 1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, in particular from 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The average refractive index is defined as the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the content in the particles.

As examples of the composite particles, for example, Mica platelets (60%) coated with TiO ₂ (40%) having an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6 × 1.5 + 0.4 × 2.5); Mention may be made of inclusions of titanium oxide (40%) in the matrix of alumina (60%), with an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6 × 1.6 + 0.4 × 2.5).

The following is a table of refractive indices used:

Table 1 : Examples of Refractive Index of Various Materials

Note: The refractive index of bismuth oxcyclolide is provided here as an index. Of course, the bismuth oxcyclolide, in its conventional form, is not a particle within the meaning of the present invention as it is a deflected-reflective particle.

As examples of the particles, mention may be made of boron nitride particles such as PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.

Scattering white particles selected according to the invention lead to very specific optical properties in terms of contrast and transparency (transmittance). This means that the particles must not only have high transmittance values to retain their natural appearance when produced, for example, in a medium such as the medium of the composition shown in the examples, but also have sufficient " "Coverage".

Transmittance (TH) or transparency is generated using Haze-gard from Byk Gardner. This instrument characterizes visual perception by objective measurements.

A 25 μm composition film is applied to a 50 μm polyethylene (PE) film.

The film is subsequently evaluated after drying for 1 hour at ambient temperature. It is placed in the instrument and transparency (transmittance) measurement is performed.

For its part, the contrast ratio is evaluated by making a film of 50 mu m in a contrast table showing a white part and a black part. The protocol for spreading the formulation consists in producing a 50 μm spread in the standard control table. The measurement is performed on a white background.

Color measurements were performed using a colorimeter. This is a Konica Minolta CR-400 colorimeter. The colorimeter provides numerical data indicating the absolute value and color difference between the reference sample and the monitored sample. The values obtained in the bare film-free chart are used as reference.

The working conditions are as follows:

Standard CIE 1964 10 ° Observer

◇ CIE emitter type D65

Measurement geometry d / 0, variant d / 8. The instrument has an optical device that produces scattered light, disposed in a spherical cavity coated with a white layer causing multiple reflections of light. An anti-glare trap eliminates the glare effect on the sample surface.

Three spectral reflectance measurements are performed for each of the two backgrounds of the contrast table by applying the spectrophotometer's measuring head directly on the 50 μm film. The values obtained are: X, Y and Z.

Contrast ratio is calculated by generating a mathematical mean of three Y values on a black background, dividing by the average of three Y values on a white background, and multiplying by 100.

For example, when the exemplified in Example 1 of the present patent application including a W / O emulsion, such as 5% by weight of boron nitride, is considered, the following behavior can be observed:

If the content of non-interfering scattering particles according to the invention is 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, similar results will be obtained with any composition (preferably fluid).

The non-interfering scattering white particles of the invention thus have a transmission of at least 75%, in particular at least 80%, and greater than 0.1, preferably greater than 0.15, according to the measurement protocol disclosed above, at a content of 4% to 8% by weight of the total composition. Resulting in a formulation having a coverage efficiency (CR / T) of.

The latter parameter reflects the coverage efficiency per unit of transmission.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, boron nitride particles having a volume-average size D50 of less than 6 μm, such as boron nitride, sold under the name PUHP 1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics having a volume-average size D50 of 3 μm Particles will be used.

The non-interfering white particles according to the invention are in an amount effective for lightening and / or homogenizing the skin and / or lips in the composition, that is to say at least 1% by weight, in particular at least 1.5% by weight, preferably at least 2% by weight of the total composition. Present in an amount of at least%.

Preferably, the content of the particles will be in the range of 2% to 12% by weight, preferably 4% to 8% by weight, in particular 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. At contents greater than 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the mask effect will be too large and may be detrimental to the desired effect of combining whiteness and transparency.

In addition, it is possible to add color by introduction of dyes or dyes, lakes, pearlescents, goniochromatic dyes and the like.

However, when these composite or non-composite particles exhibit a refractive index of greater than 2.3, for example inorganic pigments, care must be taken not to exceed 2%. This is because exceeding this concentration may reduce or indeed even extinguish the lightening effect. In addition, the latter phenomenon is accompanied by a mask effect.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously does not comprise additional white particle (s) (ie particle (s) other than non-interfering white particles according to the invention) and in particular does not comprise titanium dioxide.

The composition used according to the invention may in particular constitute a cosmetic composition. The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium for such an application. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood herein to mean a medium that is compatible with skin and / or lips.

Formulation Form

The compositions according to the invention are provided in all dosage forms suitable for application to the skin or lips: suspensions, dispersions, gels, serums, fluids or solid emulsions (W / O, O / W, multiple emulsions), aqueous, anhydrous Or fat sticks, solid, liquid or pasty dry products, loose or compact powders, or cast, molded or extruded forms.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of emulsions, in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, in particular water-in-oil emulsions.

In particular, the composition according to the invention will be a fluid emulsion.

An article in "solid" form is understood according to the invention to, in contrast to "fluid" compositions, a composition which exhibits a hardness that does not flow at ambient temperature under its own weight.

The composition of the present invention may be a composition for care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips.

In particular, the composition of the present invention will be a base for the care or makeup of the skin.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention will be a base for the care or makeup of the lips.

The composition may be applied alone or in combination with a care product or makeup product; In this case the composition of the present invention is applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips to be made up before application of the care product or makeup product.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase in an amount of preferably 10% to 99% by weight, more particularly 20% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase generally comprises water and optionally one or more water soluble solvents.

The water may be water, such as corn flour water, and / or water extracted from plants or fruits and / or hot or non-hot mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay. ) Water and / or spring water, seawater, fossil water, glacial melted water, or water distilled, double distilled or sterilized by any other process.

In the present invention, the term “water soluble solvent” denotes a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water at greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure).

The water soluble solvent (s) suitable for the present invention may be selected from C _1-8 , in particular C _1-5 monoalcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols, and mixtures thereof as described above. . Ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol, are therefore very particularly suitable for the present invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C ₁ -C ₄ monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise one or more salts, such as sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride or calcium phosphate, alone or in the form of a buffer mixture.

The aqueous phase may also include any water soluble or water dispersible compound that is compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, soluble colored molecules or dyes, surfactants and mixtures thereof, or water soluble sunscreens.

Liquid fatty phase

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more liquid fatty phases comprising one or more oils.

The liquid fatty phase may correspond to 1% to 80% by weight of the composition, in particular 2% to 50% by weight of the composition.

The oil can be hydrocarbon, silicone or volatiles or nonvolatiles with fluorinated or nonfluorinated properties, or mixtures thereof.

The oil can be of animal, plant, inorganic or synthetic origin.

The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the nonvolatile oils exhibit an evaporation rate of strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.

To determine the evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are placed in a 7 cm diameter crystallization dish placed on a scale in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 which is temperature controlled at a temperature of 25 ° C. and humidity controlled at a relative humidity of 50%. Put it in. While the liquid is free to evaporate without stirring, while in a vertical position above the crystallization dish containing the oil or the mixture, a blade with a blade 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallization dish towards the crystallization dish (see Papst-Motoren, see Ventilate using No. 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm. The weight of oil remaining in the crystallization dish is measured at regular intervals. Evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of surface area (cm 2) and units of time (minutes).

The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating in less than one hour upon contact with skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil exhibits an evaporation rate of 0.01 to 200 mg / cm 2 / min (including limit).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oil

Volatile oils are hydrocarbon oils of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) , Isodecane or isohexadecane, for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar ^® or Permethyl ^® .

As volatile oils, volatile silicones such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular have a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 ^-6 m 2 / s) or less, in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms In particular, those having 2 to 7 silicon atoms (these silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms) may also be used. As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the present invention, dimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyljade having a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt Particular mention may be made of tiltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof may also be used.

Non-volatile oil

The nonvolatile oils may in particular be selected from nonvolatile hydrocarbons, fluorinated and / or silicone oils.

As nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils the following may be mentioned in particular:

Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytosteryl esters such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and octyldodecyl / phytosteryl lauryl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), fatty acid esters of glycerol Triglycerides (particularly the fatty acid may have a chain length of C ₄ to C ₃₆ , in particular C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ ); These oils can be linear or branched, and saturated and unsaturated; These oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, vinegar oil, shea butter, aloe vera Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Boiled Oil, Peanut Oil, Argan Oil, Avocado Oil, Baobab Oil, Borage Oil, Broccoli Oil, Calendula Oil, Camellia Oil, Canola Oil, Carrot Oil, Safflower Oil, Hemp Oil, Rapeseed Oil , Cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's wort oil, monoy oil, hazelnut oil, apricot seed Oil, Walnut Oil, Olive Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Palm Oil, Blackcurrant Seed Oil, Kiwi Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pistachio Oil , Pumpkin seed oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively those sold by caprylic / capric triglycerides such as Stearineries Dubois or May be those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^® , 812 ^® and 818 ^® by Dynamit Nobel;

Linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and derivatives thereof, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, or squalene,

Synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain Provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R ₁ and R ₂ chains is 10 or more). The esters are in particular fatty acid and alcohol esters such as for example: cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, iso Propyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate, especially Isostearyl heptanoate, octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dihep Tanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, poly Glycol dihep Gaetano benzoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neo-pentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neo-pentanoate, isopropyl tree Decyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, or Hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate.

Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters such as dipentaerythryl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

Esters of dimer diols and dimer diacids, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ^® , sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in the application US 2004/175338,

Copolymers of dimer diols with dimer diacids and their esters, such as dimer dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic acid copolymers and their esters such as Plandool-G,

Copolymers of polyols with dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymers,

Fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperatures comprising branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- Butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

Higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

Dialkyl carbonates in which two alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ^® by the company Cognis,

High molar mass, in particular from about 400 to about 10 000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, more particularly from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol Having oil. As high molar mass oils which may be used in the present invention, oils which are selected in particular from the following may be mentioned:

Lipophilic polymers,

Esters of linear fatty acids having from 35 to 70 total carbon atoms,

Hydroxylated esters,

Aromatic esters,

Esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids branched and having 24 to 28 carbon atoms,

Silicone oil,

Oils of plant origin,

And mixtures thereof,

Optionally partially hydrocarbon-modified and / or silicon-modified fluorinated oils such as blueosilicone oil, fluorinated polyethers or fluorosilicones such as those described in document EP-A-847 752,

Silicone oils such as nonvolatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); Polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the ends of pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or silicone chains (these groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms); Phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate, And

-Mixtures thereof.

In a known manner, the compositions of the present invention are useful in the adjuvants common in the cosmetic or dermatological arts, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, lipophilic structuring agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, flavors, surfactants, Waxes, fillers, blockers, fungicides, odor absorbers, colorants or salts may also be included.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactant (s), used alone or as a mixture, in particular selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants.

The surfactant is generally contained in the composition in an amount of from 3% to 20% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 15% by weight, in fact even strictly above 5% by weight, more particularly from 5.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Exists as.

According to a particular embodiment, especially when the composition according to the invention is a W / O emulsion, the composition may comprise one or more silicone surfactants.

For example, the silicone surfactant (s) may be present in an amount of from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another specific embodiment, the non-silicone surfactant (s) may be present in an amount of 4% to 10% by weight, in particular 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the surfactants are more particularly chosen according to the invention, ie, to effectively stabilize emulsions of the O / W, W / O or O / W / O type. This choice is within the ability of one skilled in the art.

In the case of O / W emulsions, for example, nonionic surfactants, in particular esters of fatty acids with polyols having saturated or unsaturated chains, for example having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives Ie derivatives comprising oxyethylenated and / or oxypropyleneated units, such as glyceryl esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; Polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; Sorbitol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; Oxyalkylenated ethers of fatty acids and sugars (glucose or alkylglucose); Sucrose esters; Fatty alcohol ethers; Mention may be made of sugar ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

In the case of W / O emulsions, in particular hydrocarbons or silicone surfactants may be used.

For example, as a hydrocarbon surfactant, polyester polyols, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold as the reference Arlacel P 135 by Uniqema, or polyglyceryl-2 di sold by Cognis as the reference Dehymuls PGPH Polyhydroxystearate may be mentioned.

For example, as silicone surfactants, alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, and cetyl dimethicone sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt Mention may be made of a copolyol, or a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt.

There may also be added one or more emulsifiers. The co-emulsifier may advantageously be selected from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Polyol alkyl esters, in particular glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sold under the name Lameform TGI by Cognis, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, such as Goldschmidt Products sold under Isolan GI 34, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and mixtures thereof May be mentioned.

Wax

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more structuring agents for the liquid fatty phase selected from waxes.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the present invention can be chosen in particular from waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof.

As examples of waxes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

Waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, meridians, lanolin waxes and lanolin derivatives, or plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricery wax, beeswax, cocoa butter, or cork fiber or sugarcane Wax,

Mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petrolatum wax, lignitite wax, microcrystalline wax or wax,

Synthetic waxes, for example waxes obtained by polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch synthesis,

Silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; For example, polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or alkyl methicones such as C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ alkyl methicones sold under the trade name AMS C 30 by Dow Corning can be mentioned. ,

Hydrogenated oils which are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated resin or hydrogenated coconut oil, and fatty esters which are solid at 25 ° C., such as C sold under the name Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen _20- C ₄₀ alkyl stearate,

And / or mixtures thereof.

Filler

The composition according to the invention is, in particular, one of organic or inorganic properties, making it possible to provide additional properties of improved stability with regard to mattness, coverage and / or non-migration and exudation after application. The above fillers may also be included.

The term "filler" should be understood to mean any form of colorless or white solid particles, in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition. These particles of inorganic or organic nature can provide the composition with softness and uniformity to the body or stiffness and / or makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in foliar, ball or spherical form, fiber form or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may be surface-coated or not surface-coated, and in particular may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other material which promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the fillers in the composition.

Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silica and titanium Composites of dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, may be mentioned.

As examples of the organic filler, a polyamide powder formed from (Orgasol Nylon ^® from Atochem), polyethylene, poly (methyl methacrylate), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), or acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning) with, Lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki) , Silicone resin microbeads (eg Tospearl from Toshiba), synthetic or natural fine waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, Magnesium Stearate, Lithium Stearate, Zinc Laurate, Magnesium Myristate, Polypore Mention may be made of ^® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation) or polyurethane powders, in particular powders formed of crosslinked polyurethanes comprising a copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. It may especially be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are, in particular, for example, commercially available under the name Plastic Powder D-400 ^® or Plastic Powder D-800 ^® from Toshiki (and mixtures thereof).

The amount of these various adjuvants is conventionally used in the art, for example 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be incorporated into the fatty phase, aqueous phase and / or lipid globules.

As an active agent, the composition stimulates and / or inhibits the synthesis of, for example, epidermal deprivants, humectants, depigmentants, whitening agents, precolorants, antiglycolytic agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, dermis or epidermal macromolecules. Preventive substances, substances that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, tightening agents, muscle-relaxers, substances that prevent contamination or free radicals, substances that act on microcirculation, energy metabolism of cells It may comprise an active agent used in cosmetics, which is selected from substances which act on, or organic photoprotective agents or inorganic photoprotective agents active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region.

Whitening agents that may be included in the compositions according to the invention to complete the immediate effect provided by the scattering particles include, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; Ellagic acid; Arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in applications EP-895 779 and EP-524 109; Hydroquinone; Aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; Iminophenol derivatives, especially those described in the application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procsteine, and also salts and esters thereof; Calcium D-pentane sulfonate; Ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; And extracts of plants, in particular licorice, blackberries, skullcap and Bacopa monnieri (this list is not limiting).

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition used is one or more organic photoprotectants which are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region and are (absorbent) water soluble or fat soluble or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents and / Or one or more inorganic photoprotective agents.

The photoprotectant is generally present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition used according to the invention may be almost fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, chestnut, milk, serum, dough or foam. They may optionally be applied in the form of aerosols to the skin or lips. They may also be provided in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

The invention therefore also comprises a cosmetic method for lightening and / or homogenizing the skin and / or lips, in particular the shadows around the face and / or eyes, comprising topically applying the composition according to the invention to the skin or lips as defined above. It is about. Such cosmetic methods will be more particularly intended for immediate lightening and / or immediate homogenization of the skin or lips.

The compositions of the present invention can be used as such or as a care and / or makeup base applied to the skin before the care product or makeup product.

The invention also relates to a method of makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or lips, comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above to the skin.

Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of non-interfering scattering white particles as defined above as skin and / or lips, in particular lightening and / or homogenizing agents of the complexion, and / or emollients of skin defects.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without exhibiting limiting properties. Compounds are optionally referred to by chemical name or International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (CTFA) name.

Amounts are presented as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise specified, amounts are shown as the total amount introduced into the composition, not as the amount of active material.

Example

The following compositions were prepared according to conventional methods for formulating cosmetic compositions.

Example 1 Facial Lightening Base: W / O Emulsion

100 mg of this composition is applied to half of the face. Subsequently, measurements are performed with a Chromasphere apparatus and method having a resolution of 410 x 410 pixels as described in patent FR 2 829 344. Measurement of L * (brightness) and C * (saturation) in the CIELab76 system before and after application of 100 mg of the composition on the 4 cm x 4 cm surface area containing only the cheeks on half of the face was carried out 20 In a standardized manner at &lt; RTI ID = 0.0 &gt; Do this on both balls.

The results obtained are as follows:

When compared to the unmade skin, on the surface made up by the composition of Example 1, a lightening effect of color is obtained without the mask effect (natural effect of the makeup result).

Example 2: Eye Contour Lightening: Water-in-oil Emulsion Containing Additional Colorants

Compared to non-makeup skin, an instant lightening effect of color is observed without a mask effect when applied to shadows or eye contours around the eyes (natural effects of makeup results).

Example 3: Makeup base applied under coloring product (2 actions).

When applied under makeup powders, the compositions of the present invention make it possible to result in a final makeup result of lightening and homogenization of the complexion.

Example 4: Stick

Applying this formulation to the lips results in a lightening of the color of the lips. If these products are lip glosses that are not opaque, the second action can be applied in this case.

Claims (22)

A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening and / or homogenizing the color of skin and / or lips, comprising applying to the skin or lips one or more layers of a cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, in a content of 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Interference scattering white particles, and
(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles having a refractive index of at least 2.3,
And the cosmetic composition does not comprise additional white particle (s) selected from titanium dioxide other than the non-interfering scattering white particles. The method of claim 1, comprising applying one or more layers of cosmetic composition to the skin of the face and / or the shadows around the eyes. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is applied alone or prior to application of the care product or makeup product. delete delete The non-therapeutic cosmetic method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition additionally comprises a surfactant. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition additionally comprises a wax. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is in water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion form. The method of claim 1, wherein the non-interfering scattering white particles have an average refractive index of 1.7 to 2.2,
Boron Nitride,
Composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, and synthetic mica,
Poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particles,
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles, or
Non-therapeutic cosmetic method, characterized in that it is selected from mixtures thereof. The method of claim 1, wherein the non-interfering scattering white particles are boron nitride. The method of claim 1, wherein the non-interfering scattering white particles are boron nitride particles having a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 to 6 μm. delete The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition stimulates the synthesis of and / or prevents degradation of epidermal decontaminants, moisturizers, depigmentants, whitening agents, precolorants, antiglycolytic agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, dermis or epidermal macromolecules. Substances that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, tightening agents, muscle-relaxers, contamination or free radical inhibitors, substances that act on microcirculation, substances that act on energy metabolism of cells Or one or more cosmetic ingredients selected from organic photoprotectors or inorganic photoprotectants active in the UV-A and / or UV-B regions. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that in a physiologically acceptable medium, exhibits at least 75% transmission and at least 0.1 coverage efficiency (contrast / permeability):
(i) a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, in a content of 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; Interference scattering white particles, and
(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles having a refractive index of at least 2.3,
A cosmetic composition comprising no additional white particle (s) selected from titanium dioxide other than the non-interfering scattering white particles. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, after application to the skin and / or lips, resulting in increased brightness ΔL> +1 and loss of saturation ΔC <−1:
(i) characterized by a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, in an amount of 4% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; Non-interfering scattering white particles, and
(ii) from 0% to 2% by weight of particles having a refractive index of at least 2.3,
A cosmetic composition comprising no additional white particle (s) selected from titanium dioxide other than the non-interfering scattering white particles. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14 or 15, which is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14 or 15, wherein the non-interfering scattering white particles are boron nitride particles having a volume-average size (D50) of 0.3 to 6 μm. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14 or 15, which is used in a non-therapeutic cosmetic method as defined in any of claims 6-11. delete delete delete delete