KR101883310B1 - Cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkle containing extract of rhamnus yoshinoi - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention jjakjarae tree (Rhamnus yoshinoi extract as an active ingredient, and to a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles and skin elasticity. The present invention is characterized by containing 0.001 to 30.0% by weight of a bilberry extract, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition having an excellent effect in improving elasticity and improving skin wrinkles.

Description

Technical Field [0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles,

The invention jjakjarae tree (Rhamnus yoshinoi extract as an active ingredient, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles and skin elasticity, which contains a combination of extracts from a matured tree.

A variety of physical and chemical changes occur in human skin during the aging process. The cause of this is classified into intrinsic aging and photo-aging. Free radicals can be caused by activation of ultraviolet rays, stress, disease state, environmental factors, wounds, and aging. When such state is deepened, the antioxidant defense network existing in the living body is destroyed, And aging. More specifically, lipids, proteins, polysaccharides and nucleic acids, which are major constituents of the skin, are oxidized to destroy skin cells and tissues, resulting in skin aging.

 Protein oxidation is a process in which collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, proteoglycan, and fibronectin, which are the connective tissues of the skin, are severed, When it gets worse, mutation of DNA leads to mutation, cancer, and immune function. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the cell membrane by destroying the free radicals mediated by free radicals, ultraviolet rays, and inflammation that occur during the metabolism of the body, and to regenerate already damaged cells by vigorous metabolism The skin can quickly recover and maintain healthy skin.

In the skin, elastin fibers form crosslinks inside the dermis with collagen fibers, and are involved in skin elasticity. As the age increases, the skin histologically shows depletion and aggregation of elastin fibers, decreased collagen fibers, increased infiltration of inflammatory cells, and a dramatic increase in the activity of the elastinase, elastase.

Elastase is an enzyme that degrades elastin, an important substrate for maintaining skin elasticity in the dermis. Elastase is also a nonspecific hydrolytic enzyme capable of degrading collagen, another important substrate protein. Thus, the elastase inhibitor shows an action to improve the wrinkles of the skin, and ursolic acid and the like are used as an elastase inhibitor. Elastase is known to be the main enzyme of wrinkle formation, which breaks elastin, the insoluble elastic fiber protein of animal connective tissue, and breaks the network structure of the dermal tissue of the skin. In the dermis of the skin, elastin related to the elasticity of collagen and skin forms a network structure. As the network structure is broken, the elastin is decomposed by elastase, and the skin is wrinkled and wrinkles are generated. do. Therefore, skin aging can be suppressed by lowering the activity of elastase, which is one of the main causes of skin aging.

Therefore, the elasticity of the skin is rapidly lowered by the action of elastase. Studies on natural products having elastase inhibitory activity have been continuing to date as a solution that can reduce skin aging inevitably by inhibiting elastase.

Aging involves free radicals as well as enzyme called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), a collagenase. That is, synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix such as collagen in vivo are appropriately controlled, but collagen synthesis is reduced as aging progresses, and expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), an enzyme that degrades collagen, is promoted, And the wrinkles are formed. These degrading enzymes are also activated by ultraviolet irradiation. Therefore, there is a demand for development of a substance capable of modulating MMP expression induced in the cell or inhibiting its activity.

The present inventors have search results for a variety of skin bioactive natural plant ingredients to improve the aging jjakjarae trees (Rhamnus from natural plant extracts yoshinoi extract inhibits elastase activity, promotes collagen synthesis and inhibits MMP-1 production, thereby effectively improving skin wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. The present invention has been completed based on this finding.

The invention jjakjarae tree (Rhamnus The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles and improving skin elasticity, which comprises an extract of yoshinoi .

Preferably, the bilberry extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferably, the herbal extract is selected from the group consisting of (a) water, an anhydrous or a lower alcohol having 1-4 carbons, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, acetone, ethyl acetate, chloroform, butyl acetate, diethyl ether, dichloromethane, (B) a supercritical extraction method, (c) an ultrasonic extraction method, and (d) a fermentation extraction method using a microorganism.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, powder, soap, surfactant-containing cleansing, oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation and spray Lt; / RTI >

The invention jjakjarae tree (Rhamnus yoshinoi ) extract as an active ingredient. Combinatorial extracts which are active ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are excellent in collagen biosynthesis and inhibiting effect on MMP-1 production, and are excellent in the effect of improving wrinkles and improving elasticity when applied to cosmetics.

The invention jjakjarae tree (Rhamnus yoshinoi extract as an active ingredient.

The sympathetic tree used in the present invention is a tree of the family Seagull, and is a tree native to Manchuria, Japan and Korea. Seagulls grow up to 2m to 2.5m in height with deciduous trees. The bark is grayish brown and the lobes are much developed. Leaves are alternate and oval. The tip of the leaf is short and the edge has sawtooth. The petiole length is 5mm to 10mm. Yellow-green flowers bloom in May. The cone-shaped inflorescences run on the tips of new branches and have hairs. Fruits ripen in black in autumn. It can be seen frequently in rivers and rock crevices in upstream valleys. It likes light rays like amphibians and is resistant to cold, so it can be planted anywhere in the country, but it is weak in pollution. It is widely distributed in sub-alpine ridge.

In the present invention, the comet tree extract is obtained by extracting from various organs or parts (e.g., leaves, bark, branches, flowers, roots, fruits, stems, etc.), preferably extracts from the outposts or roots, Most preferably an extract obtained from the outpost.

Jjakjarae tree of the present invention (Rhamnus yoshinoi extract may be prepared by using conventional solvents known in the art, that is, under the conditions of ordinary temperature and pressure, but preferably (a) water, Propanol and butanol), propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, acetone, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane (B) a supercritical extraction method using carbon dioxide and a supercritical extraction method using a high temperature, or (c) an ultrasonic extraction method.

In the present invention, a solvent extraction method using an extraction solvent is preferably used. In the present invention, the comet tree extract is obtained from a variety of extraction solvents, such as water, anhydrous or lower alcohols having 1-4 carbon atoms (e.g., methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol), propylene glycol, It may be obtained by using at least one extraction solvent selected from the group consisting of glycol, glycerin, acetone, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane and mixtures thereof, % (v / v) ethanol or water, and most preferably 70% (v / v) ethanol.

On the other hand, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that the extract of the blueberry extract of the present invention, which exhibits substantially the same effect, can be obtained not only by the above-mentioned extraction solvent but also by other extraction solvent.

In addition, the bilberry extract of the present invention includes extracts obtained by the conventional extraction and fermentation processes as well as the extracts obtained by the above-described extraction solvents. For example, decompression by carbon dioxide, extraction by supercritical extraction with high temperature, extraction by extraction using ultrasound, separation by ultrafiltration membrane with constant molecular weight cutoff value, various chromatography (size, charge, hydrophobic or affinity And the active fraction obtained through various purification and extraction methods, such as an extract obtained by fermentation products using natural or various microorganisms, are also included in the extract of the present invention.

The compound extract of the present invention also includes an extract obtained through fermentation. The fermented extract of the compound of the present invention can be prepared as follows. After finely crushing the seedlings to 100 to 500 mesh, 1 to 50 g / L of a conventional microorganism culture solution is added, and a microorganism such as yeast strain or lactic acid bacteria is added in an amount of 10,000 to 100,000 cfu / L. The culture temperature is 30 to 37 ° C. The pH is 5 to 7 and aerobic or anaerobic conditions are maintained for about 5 to 10 days. Which can be obtained through aging and filtration.

According to the present invention, the compound extract may be contained in an amount of 0.001 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably 0.01 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. When the content of the extract is less than 0.001% by weight, the effect of improving the skin is not exhibited. When the content of the extract is more than 30.0% by weight, the degree of improvement of the skin against the increase of the content is insignificant, It is not even.

Accordingly, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprising the compound extracts of various plants having the various functions is characterized by having excellent elastase inhibitory activity, collagen biosynthesis effect, and inhibitory effect on MMP-1 production.

The ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain, as an active ingredient, the ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the above-mentioned effective ingredients, and may contain conventional additives such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, , And a carrier.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared into any of the formulations conventionally produced in the art and can be used in the form of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, , Oil, powdered foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, pack, massage cream and spray, but is not limited thereto. More specifically, it can be manufactured in the form of a soft lotion, a nutritional lotion, a nutritional cream, a massage cream, an essence, an eye cream, a cleansing cream, a cleansing foam, a cleansing water, a pack, a spray or a powder.

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, an animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tracant, cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide may be used as the carrier component . When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or an emulsion, a solvent, a dissolving agent or an emulsifying agent is used as a carrier component, and examples thereof include water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, , 3-butyl glycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan fatty acid esters.

In the case where the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, a carrier such as water, a liquid diluent such as ethanol or propylene glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, Cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar or tracant, etc. may be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier component. In the case of a spray, in particular, / Propane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleansing, the carrier component may include aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyltaurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid amide ether Alkylamido betaine, aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid glyceride, fatty acid diethanolamide, vegetable oil, lanolin derivative, or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid ester.

When the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a soap, a surfactant-containing cleansing formulation or a surfactant-free cleansing formulation, it may be applied to the skin and then wiped off, washed or rinsed with water. The surfactant-containing cleansing formulation may be a cleansing foam, a cleansing water, a cleansing towel and a cleansing pack. The surfactant-free cleansing formulation may be a cleansing cream, , Cleansing lotion, cleansing water and cleansing gel, but is not limited thereto.

On the other hand, the cosmetic process of the present invention refers to all cosmetic processes using the cosmetic composition of the present invention. That is, all methods known in the art using a cosmetic composition belong to the cosmetic method of the present invention. The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be used alone or in combination, or may be used in combination with other cosmetic compositions other than the present invention. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be used according to a conventional method of use, and may be used in a number of times depending on the skin condition or taste of the user.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. These embodiments are only for describing the present invention in more detail, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these embodiments in accordance with the gist of the present invention. The following preparation examples are prepared by reacting the above-mentioned (a) water, an anhydrous or hydric alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (for example, methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol), propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin (B) solvent extraction using a solvent selected from the group consisting of acetone, diethyl ether, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane and mixtures thereof; (b) supercritical extraction It is obvious to those skilled in the art that an extract having substantially the same effect can be obtained even by using the ultrasonic extraction method (c) and the fermentation process (d), but the present invention is not limited to the following production examples.

Production Example 1 - Rhamnus yoshinoi ) Preparation of extract

200 g of the conifer was washed with clean water, dried, pulverized, and immersed in an aqueous 70% (V / V) ethanol solution in an amount of 10 times (2 L) of the weight of the sample for 72 hours at room temperature. And filtered through Whatman # 4 filter paper. The filtered extract was concentrated under reduced pressure and freeze-dried at 50 DEG C or lower, and as a result, about 21 g (about 10% by weight) was obtained. The dried extract was diluted to a certain concentration and used in the following experiment.

Experimental Example 1 - Measurement of Elastase Inhibitory Activity

The amount of p-nitroanilide produced from the substrate at 37 ° C for 20 minutes was measured at 445 nm using N-succinyl- (L-Ala) 3-p-nitroanilide (S4760, Sigma) as a substrate. 500 μL of a solution of porcine pancreas elastase (E1250, Sigma, 2.5 U / mL) dissolved in 2 mM tris-HCl buffer (pH 8.6) was added to the test tube, and 50 mM N-succinyl- (L-Ala) 3-p-nitroanilide (500 μg / mL) dissolved in tris-HCl buffer (pH 8.6) was added and reacted for 20 minutes. Elastase inhibitory activity was calculated by the following equation (1) as the absorbance reduction ratio of the sample solution and the non-added sample.

Name of sample Treatment concentration (ppm) Elastase inhibition rate (%) Adenosine 5000 85.32 ± 3.24 Production Example 1 100 31.19 ± 1.02 500 49.88 + 4.12 1000 70.56 ± 6.17

As can be seen from the above Table 1, it can be seen that the inhibition rate of elastase of the plant extract according to the present invention is excellent.

*

Experimental Example 2 - Measurement of inhibitory activity of collagenase

The collagenase inhibitory activity was measured by Wunsch et al. I.e. reaction clause 0.1 M Tris-HCl buffer (pH 7.5) in 4 mM by the addition of _{CaCl 2, 4-phenylazobenzyloxycarbonyl-Pro} -Leu-Gly-Pro-D-Arg substrate solution was dissolved (300ppm) 0.25 mL and sample solution of 0.1 , 0.15 mL of collagenase (200 ppm) was added, and the mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. Then, 0.5 mL of 6% citric acid was added to quench the reaction, and 1.5 mL of ethyl acetate was added to measure the absorbance at 320 nm. The inhibitory activity of collagenase was expressed by the absorbance reduction rate of the addition of the sample solution and the addition of no sample. The results are shown in Table 2. As a comparative group, butylated hydroxyanisol was used.

Name of sample Treatment concentration (ppm) Collagenase inhibitory activity (%) Butylated hydroxyanisole 500 82.64 ± 5.15 Production Example 1 100 26.41 + - 4.62 250 68.79 ± 6.25 500 80.29 + - 7.51

As can be seen from the above Table 2, it can be seen that the preparation example 1 containing the compound extract of the present invention has collagenase inhibitory activity similar to that of the comparative group.

Experimental Example 3 - Measurement of collagen biosynthesis using an ELISA kit

Human fibroblasts (Human Skin Fibroblast) for 37 ℃, 10% FBS in cell culture medium to maintain a constant humidity in 5% CO ₂ incubator, Penicillin (50U / mL), Streptomycin DMEM (Dulbecco's containing (50 / mL) (Gibco, USA). Cells were seeded at a density of 1 × 10 ⁵ cells / ml in a 24-well plate and cultured for 24 hours. In the fibroblasts, collagen type I was quantified by immunosorbent assay (ELISA) using Procollagen Type I c-peptide EIA kit (TaKaRa, japan) for 48 hours The cultured supernatant of the cell culture was carefully collected. First, 100 μl of the culture supernatant was added to the strips coated with antibody against Procollagen Type I c-peptide for 48 hours, and reacted at 37 ° C for 2 hours. After the reaction, unreacted material was removed by washing three times using a washing buffer, and 100 μl of blocking buffer was added thereto, followed by reaction at 37 ° C for 2 hours. After reaction, unreacted material was removed by washing three times using a washing buffer, and a solution in which POD was conjugated to another antibody binding to 'Procollagen Type I c-peptide' (Antiobody- POD conjugate solution) was added and reacted at 37 ° C for 2 hours. After the reaction, the unreacted material was removed by washing three times with a washing buffer, the same amount of substrate solution was added, and the reaction was carried out for 30 minutes. Then, a stop solution (1N H ₂ SO ₄ ) And the experiment was completed. The absorbance of the strip was measured at 450 nm, and the amount of newly synthesized collagen was measured by PICP. The amount of collagen was calculated as ng / 2 × 10 ⁴ cells. Respectively.

Name of sample Treatment concentration (ppm) Amount of collagen synthesis
(ng / 2 x 10 ⁴ ) Ascorbic acid 100 130 ± 5.91 Production Example 1 100 114 ± 7.16 250 188 ± 4.92

As can be seen from the above Table 3, it can be seen that the bilberry extract according to the present invention shows a collagen synthesis effect comparable to that of ascorbic acid as a control group.

Experimental Example 4 - Inhibitory effect on MMP-1 production

This experiment example 4 jjakjarae tree of Preparative Example 1 (Rhamnus (10 ng / mL, Roche, Japan ), a substance known to inhibit the production of MMP-1, was used to measure the inhibitory effect of yoshinoi extract on the production of collagenase MMP- USA) was used as a comparative group and the effect of inhibiting the production of MMP-1 was measured. Human normal skin cells, fibroblasts (Korean Cell Line Bank, Korea), were inoculated into 48-well microplates (Nunc, Denmark) at a density of 1 × 10 ⁶ cells per well and cultured in DMEM medium (Sigma, After culturing for 24 hours, the seedlings obtained from Preparation Example 1 were further cultured for 48 hours in serum-free DMEM medium supplemented with 100 μg / ml of final concentration and in serum-free DMEM medium containing no bilberry extract as a control . After culturing, the supernatant of each well was collected and the amount (ng / ml) of the newly synthesized MMP-1 was measured using an MMP-1 assay kit (Amersham, USA) The inhibition rate (%) was calculated and the results are shown in Table 4.

Name of sample Treatment concentration (nM) Inhibition rate of MMP-1 production (%) TGF-beta 200 70.30 ± 4.19 Production Example 1 100 30.12 ± 2.19 250 69.88 + - 4.92

As can be seen from the above Table 4, Production Example 1 containing the compound extract of the present invention showed an effect similar to that of TGF-β, effectively inhibiting the production of MMP-1.

Prescription Example 1 - lotion

Jjakjarae trees (Rhamnus yoshinoi ) extract is shown in Table 5 below.

ingredient Content (unit:% by weight) Production Example 1
glycerin
1,3-butylene glycol
PIZZY 1500
Allantoin
DL-Panthenol
EDTA-2Na
Benzophenone-9
Sodium hyaruronate
ethanol
Octidodeces-16
Polysorbate 20
Preservative, fragrance, pigment
Distilled water 3.0
5.0
3.0
1.0
0.1
0.3
0.02
0.04
5.0
10.0
0.2
0.2
a very small amount
Balance Sum 100

Prescription Example 2 - Cream

Jjakjarae trees (Rhamnus yoshinoi ) extract is shown in Table 6 below

ingredient Content (unit:% by weight) Production Example 1
Pro-type glycerin monostearate
Cetearyl alcohol
Stearic acid
Wax
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan stearate
Hardened vegetable oil
Squalane
Mineral oil
Trioctanoin
Dimethicone
Sodium magnesium silicate
glycerin
Betaine
Triethanolamine
Sodium hyaruronate
Preservative, fragrance, pigment
Distilled water 3.0
2.0
2.2
1.5
1.0
1.5
0.6
1.0
3.0
5.0
5.0
1.0
0.1
5.0
3.0
1.0
4.0
a very small amount
Balance Sum 100

Prescription Example 3 - Essence

Jjakjarae trees (Rhamnus yoshinoi ) extract is shown in Table 7 below .

ingredient Content (unit:% by weight) Production Example 1
glycerin
Betaine
PIZZY 1500
Allantoin
DL-Panthenol
Lee D. T.-2Na
Benzophenone-9
Hydroxyethyl cellulose
Sodium hyaruronate
Carboxyvinyl polymer
Triethanolamine
Octyldodecanol
Octyldodec-16
ethanol
Preservative, fragrance, pigment
Distilled water 3.0
10.0
5.0
2.0
0.1
0.3
0.02
0.04
0.1
8.0
0.2
0.18
0.3
0.4
6.0
a very small amount
Balance Sum 100

Comparative Prescription Example 1 - Cream

Were prepared in the same manner as in the prescription of Table 6, except that they did not contain herbal extracts.

Example 5 - jjakjarae trees (Rhamnus Evaluation of Wrinkle Reduction Effect of Cosmetic Containing Yoshinoi Extract

The effect of improving the wrinkles of the cosmetic compositions containing the compound extract of the present invention of the present invention was evaluated through practical use tests. The cream of Formulation Example 2 containing 3% by weight of the herbal extract and the cream of Comparative Prescription Example 1 wherein the extract was replaced with purified water was used. Thirty women aged 30-40 years were randomly divided into two groups. After cleansing cream twice daily for morning and evening, a proper amount of cream was applied continuously for 2 months around the eyes. The wrinkle improvement effect of each subject was evaluated by visual observation. The experimental results are shown in Table 8 below.

Excellent wrinkle improvement effect Wrinkle improvement effect slightly No effect of wrinkle improvement Prescription Example 2 11 13 6 Comparative Prescription Example 1 6 10 14

As can be seen from the above Table 8, the cosmetic composition containing the extract of Combinatoria sinensis according to the present invention showed a higher wrinkle-reducing effect than the comparative formulation example 1. In addition, skin irritation could not be observed in the subjects to whom the cosmetic of the present invention was applied to the skin.

Experimental Example 6 - Jjakjarae trees (Rhamnus Evaluation promote elasticity effect of the cosmetic composition containing yoshinoi) extract

The skin elasticity effect of the cosmetic of the present invention was evaluated through practical use tests. The cream of Prescription Example 2 and the cream of Comparative Prescription Example 1, each containing 3% by weight of Comvitae extract, were evaluated. Thirty women aged 30-40 years were randomly divided into two groups and washed twice daily with cream of Prescription Example 2 and Comparative Prescription Example 1 every morning and evening. The skin elasticity improvement effect of each subject was evaluated using a cutometer (C + K, Germany). The experimental results are shown in Table 9 below.

Excellent elasticity enhancement effect A little bit of elasticity enhancement effect No elasticity enhancement effect Prescription Example 2 15 10 5 Comparative Prescription Example 1 5 12 13

As can be seen in Table 9, jjakjarae tree (Rhamnus yoshinoi) formulation containing Extract Example 2, the cream of the invention is a high skin elasticity, promotion effect compared to the cream of Comparative Preparation Example 1 which did not contain the jjakjarae biloba Respectively.

Claims (4)

A cosmetic composition for the improvement of wrinkles comprising a combination extract of Rhamnus yoshinoi with a 70% (v / v) aqueous ethanol solution. The cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles according to claim 1, wherein the compound extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is a solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, powder, soap, surfactant-containing cleansing, oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation and spray Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 > 1, < / RTI > delete