KR101600247B1 - Method for producing knitted goods - Google Patents
Method for producing knitted goods Download PDFInfo
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- KR101600247B1 KR101600247B1 KR1020150167188A KR20150167188A KR101600247B1 KR 101600247 B1 KR101600247 B1 KR 101600247B1 KR 1020150167188 A KR1020150167188 A KR 1020150167188A KR 20150167188 A KR20150167188 A KR 20150167188A KR 101600247 B1 KR101600247 B1 KR 101600247B1
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- South Korea
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- knitting
- fabric
- dyeing
- weight
- Prior art date
Links
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title description 5
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 64
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chromium Chemical compound [Cr] VYZAMTAEIAYCRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052804 chromium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011651 chromium Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910001220 stainless steel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000010935 stainless steel Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- QOSATHPSBFQAML-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen peroxide;hydrate Chemical compound O.OO QOSATHPSBFQAML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009413 insulation Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- -1 DTY Polymers 0.000 abstract 1
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000012535 impurity Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006231 aramid fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004020 conductor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000356 contaminant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000354 decomposition reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000006866 deterioration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009792 diffusion process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/04—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/45—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 3 or 13 of the Periodic Table; Aluminates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/49—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 8, 9,10 or 18 of the Periodic Table; Ferrates; Cobaltates; Nickelates; Ruthenates; Osmates; Rhodates; Iridates; Palladates; Platinates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/73—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
- D06M11/74—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon or graphite; with carbides; with graphitic acids or their salts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 보온성이 향상되는 편물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서, 특히 편직공정시에 보온성이 유지되면서 신축성을 가지는 다수의 원사를 편직되는 편직공정과, 상기 편직공정에서 편직된 원단의 특성을 유지하면서 염색하는 염색공정과, 원단의 표면이 골고루 건조되어 축율의 변형을 방지하는 텐타공정으로 이루어지는 보온성이 향상되는 편물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a knitted fabric having improved warmth, and more particularly, to a knitting process in which a plurality of yarns having stretchability are maintained while retaining warmth during a knitting process, And a tenting process for preventing the deformation of the expansion ratio by drying the surface of the fabric evenly, thereby improving the warmth of the knitted fabric.
일반적으로 편물은 바늘을 사용하여 씨실과 날실이 직각으로 교차하여 천을 짜나가는 직물로서, 신축성이 풍부하여 착용하기 쉬우며, 가볍고 구김살이 지지 않는 특성을 가지고 있다.Generally, a knitted fabric is a cloth which crosses a warp and a warp at a right angle by using a needle, and knits the cloth. The fabric is rich in elasticity, easy to wear, light,
이러한 특징을 가진 편물은 스웨터류, 코트, 모자, 장갑, 양말, 내의 등 광범위하게 사용되며, 따라서 상기 편물은 인체에 착용되는 제품에 주로 사용됨으로서 경량감과 더불어 보온성이 구비되어야 한다.,The knitted fabric having such characteristics is widely used in sweaters, coats, hats, gloves, socks, and so on. Therefore, the knitted fabric is mainly used for products worn on the human body,
이러한 현상에 따라 편물에 높은 보온성을 구비하기 위해 다양한 기술이 개발되었으며, 대표적인 기술로는 특허등록 제10-0504677호와 특허등록 제10-0575473호 등이 있다.Various technologies have been developed in order to provide the knitted fabric with high warmth according to such a phenomenon. Representative technologies include patent registration No. 10-0504677 and patent registration No. 10-0575473.
상기 특허등록 제10-0504677호는 편물에 높은 보온성을 구비하기 위해 편물에 도전성물질, 금속성 시트을 접착하고 외부전원에 의해 보온성을 유지하는 기술이다.The above-mentioned patent registration No. 10-0504677 is a technique for bonding a conductive material and a metallic sheet to a knitted fabric so as to have a high warm-keeping property on the knitted fabric and maintaining warmth by an external power source.
또한 상기 특허등록 제10-0575473호는 아크릴계 탄소섬유와 아라미드섬유를 혼합한 특수한 원사를 사용하여 제직 또는 편직됨으로서 제조공정이 일반적인 편직기법이 아니어서 제조의 어려움이 있을 뿐 아니라 고가의 원사로 제직 또는 편직됨으로서 생산단가가 고가로 형성되어 부가가치가 떨어지는 단점이 있어왔다.In addition, the above-mentioned Patent Registration No. 10-0575473 discloses that since a special yarn in which acrylic fiber and aramid fiber are mixed is used for weaving or knitting, the manufacturing process is not a general knitting technique, There has been a disadvantage that knitted fabrics have a high production cost and a low added value.
본 발명은 상기와 같은 종래 기술의 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 발명된 것으로서, 편직공정시에 보온성이 유지되면서 신축성을 가지는 다수의 원사를 편직되는 편직공정과, 상기 편직공정에서 편직된 원단의 특성을 유지하면서 염색하는 염색공정과, 원단의 표면이 골고루 건조되어 축율의 변형을 방지하는 텐타공정으로 이루어져 편물의 밀도를 최대화하여 보온성을 향상시키는 편물의 제조방법을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.Disclosure of Invention Technical Problem [8] Accordingly, the present invention has been made keeping in mind the above problems occurring in the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a knitting process in which a plurality of yarns having elasticity are maintained while keeping warmth in a knitting process, And a tenter process for preventing the deformation of the expansion rate by drying the surface of the fabric evenly, thereby maximizing the density of the knitted fabric and improving the warmth of the knitted fabric.
상기와 같은 목적을 실현하기 위하여 본 발명은, 레이온 65중량%와 폴리에스터 35중량%로 이루어지는 혼방사와, DTY사(Draw Textured Yarn, 연신가공사)와, 스판덱스사를 각각의 원사로 하여 편직하는 편직공정; 상기 편직공정에서 완성된 원단을 55 ~ 140℃의 온도범위에서 다수회로 구분되어 수행되는 염색공정; 상기 염색공정을 거친 원단이 145 ~ 155℃의 온도범위에서 텐타가공이 수행되는 텐타공정;이 포함됨을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법을 제공한다.In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a knitting yarn comprising knitting yarns composed of 65% by weight of rayon and 35% by weight of polyester, DTY yarn (Draw Textured Yarn, stretched fabric) and spandex yarn, fair; A dyeing step in which the fabric finished in the knitting process is divided into a plurality of circuits in a temperature range of 55 to 140 캜; And a tentering process in which the fabric after the dyeing process is subjected to a tentering process in a temperature range of 145 to 155 ° C.
또한 상기 편직공정에 사용되는 원사는 혼방사 60 ~ 65중량%, DTY사 30 ~ 35 중량%, 스판덱스사 4 ~ 8 중량%임을 특징으로 한다.The yarn used in the knitting process is characterized by 60 to 65 wt% of the blend yarn, 30 to 35 wt% of the DTY yarn, and 4 to 8 wt% of the spandex yarn.
또한 상기 편직공정은 원사에 5 ~ 10gf의 장력을 가한 후 편직이 이루어지는 편직기에 원사를 공급함을 특징으로 한다.The knitting process is characterized in that the yarn is supplied to a knitting machine in which a yarn is subjected to a tension of 5 to 10 gf and then knitted.
전술한 바와 같이 본 발명에 따르면, 레이온과 폴리에스터로 이루어지는 혼방사, DTY사, 스판덱스사를 각각의 원사로 하여 편직되는 편직공정과 더불어 편직된 원단이 본 발명에서 한정하는 특정한 조건인 염색공정 및 텐타공정으로 수행되어 원단의 밀도를 유지시켜주어 보온성을 유지시켜줄 수 있고, 원단의 신축성을 유지시켜주어 양질의 원단을 제공할 수 있는 효과가 있다.As described above, according to the present invention, in addition to the knitting process in which the yarn is knitted with each yarn of a mixed yarn of yarn made of rayon and polyester, DTY yarn, and spandex yarn, the knitting process, It is possible to maintain the denseness of the fabric by maintaining the denseness of the fabric and to maintain the elasticity of the fabric and to provide a high-quality fabric.
또한 편직공정에서 5 ~ 10gf의 균일한 장력을 가한 원사에 의해 원단이 편직됨으로서 원단의 텐션이 유지되어 신축성이 향상되면서도 원사의 밀도 또한 촘촘하게 이루어지게 되는 효과가 있다.In addition, in the knitting process, the fabric is knitted by the yarn having a uniform tension of 5 to 10 gf, so that the tension of the fabric is maintained to improve the stretchability, and the density of the yarn is also tightened.
본 발명에 따른 보온성 편물 제조방법은 편직공정시에 보온성이 유지되면서 신축성을 가지는 다수의 원사를 편직함으로서 편물의 밀도를 최대화하여 보온성을 향상시키도록 구성된 것이다.The method for manufacturing a warm knitted fabric according to the present invention is configured to improve the warmth by maximizing the density of the knitted fabric by knitting a plurality of elastic yarns while keeping warmth in the knitting process.
이를 위해 본 발명은 편직공정, 염색공정, 텐타공정이 순차적으로 구본되어 수행된다.To this end, the present invention is carried out by sequentially knitting a knitting process, a dyeing process, and a tenter process.
편직공정은 레이온 65중량%와 폴리에스터 35중량%로 이루어지는 혼방사와, DTY사(Draw Textured Yarn, 연신가공사)와, 스판덱스사를 각각의 원사로 하여 편직하는 공정이다.The knitting process is a process of knitting a mixed yarn composed of 65% by weight of rayon and 35% by weight of polyester, a drawn yarn (Draw Textured Yarn, stretched fabric) and spandex yarn as respective yarns.
상기 혼방사는 보온성 및 신축성을 상호 보완할 수 있도록 한 것으로 레이온과 폴리에스터의 중량비율을 자유롭게 할 수 있으나 가격 경쟁력과 편직작업성에 의해 레이온 65중량%와 폴리에스터 35중량%로 이루어지는 것이 바람직하다.The blend yarn is capable of complementing the warmth and stretchability. The blend yarn can make the weight ratio of rayon and polyester freely. However, it is preferable that the blend yarn comprises 65% by weight of rayon and 35% by weight of polyester due to cost competitiveness and knitting workability.
또한, DTY사는 연신한 후 다시 가연한 것으로 실을 꼬았다가 푸는 과정에서 세팅이 이루어져 부풀어 올라 열을 가하거나 냉각과 같은 조건에도 그 형태를 유지시켜 보온성을 유지하면서도 신축성 또한 우수한 특성을 가지고 있다.In addition, the DTY yarn is re-twisted after stretching, and the twist yarn is twisted and twisted in the process of twisting and loosening the yarn, maintaining its shape even when heated or cooled, thereby maintaining warmth and elasticity.
또한, 스판덱스사는 신축성이 뛰어나며, 내구성, 발한성, 건조성 등이 뛰어나 속옷, 안감, 겉옷 등 여러 가지 용도로 다양하게 쓰인다.In addition, spandex has excellent stretchability, durability, perspiration and dryness, and is used in various applications such as underwear, lining and jacket.
여기서 상기 편직공정에 사용되는 원사는 혼방사 60 ~ 65중량%, DTY사 30 ~ 35 중량%, 스판덱스사 4 ~ 8 중량%로 이루어지며, 이는 혼방사 및 DTY사로 하여금 원단의 가장 기초적인 기능을 수행하면서도 후술되는 염색공정, 텐타공정에서도 편직공정에서 편직된 원단의 밀도를 유지시켜주어 보온성 또한 유지시켜줄 수 있고, 스판덱스로 하여금 원단의 신축성을 유지시켜주는 최적의 중량비율이기 때문이다.The yarn used in the knitting process is composed of 60 to 65 wt% of a blend yarn, 30 to 35 wt% of a DTY yarn, and 4 to 8 wt% of a spandex yarn, which enables a blend yarn and a DTY yarn to perform the most basic functions of the fabric This is because, in the dyeing process and the tenter process described later, it is possible to maintain the density of the fabric knitted in the knitting process to maintain the warmth, and the optimum weight ratio of the spandex to maintain the stretchability of the fabric.
또한 스판덱스사는 상기의 중량비율로 이루어짐으로서 원단의 신축성은 물론 염색공정과 텐터공정 후에도 원단의 끝부분에 발생될 수 있는 말림현상 방지와 더불어 원단의 수축율을 최소화할 수 있다.In addition, since the spandex yarn has the above weight ratio, it is possible to minimize the shrinkage of the fabric as well as the stretchability of the fabric, curling which may occur at the end of the fabric after the dyeing process and the tentering process.
염색공정은 상기 편직공정에서 완성된 원단을 55 ~ 140℃의 온도범위에서 다수회로 구분되어 수행되며, 보다 상세한 형태는 120 ~ 140℃에서 25 ~ 35분간 수행되는 1차염색단계와, 75 ~ 95℃에서 5 ~ 15분간 수행되는 2차염색단계와, 55 ~ 65℃에서 35 ~45분간 수행되는 3차염색단계와, 85 ~ 100℃에서 5 ~ 15분간 수행되는 4차염색단계와, 95 ~ 105℃에서 25 ~ 35분간 수행되는 5차염색단계가 순차적으로 이루어지게 된다.The dyeing process is performed by dividing the fabric finished in the knitting process into a plurality of circuits at a temperature range of 55 to 140 ° C, more specifically, a primary dyeing step performed at 120 to 140 ° C for 25 to 35 minutes, A second dyeing step for 5 to 15 minutes at 55 to 65 ° C, a third dyeing step for 35 to 45 minutes at 55 to 65 ° C, a fourth dyeing step for 5 to 15 minutes at 85 to 100 ° C, Followed by a fifth step of dyeing at 105 DEG C for 25 to 35 minutes.
상기 염색공정의 온도를 각각 구분하여 이루어지는 것은 높은 열에 의하여 원단의 경화되는 현상을 방지하여 염색공정이 완료된 후에 편직된 원사들의 밀도를 촘촘하게 유지시켜 원단의 보온성을 향상시키면서도 원단의 축율이 한곳으로 치우쳐져 원단의 변형을 방지하기 위함이다.The reason why the temperature of the dyeing process is separately divided is that the hardening of the fabric is prevented by the high heat so that the density of the knitted yarn is maintained tightly after the dyeing process is completed to improve the warmth of the fabric, This is to prevent deformation of the fabric.
그리고 염색공정의 최고온도가 140℃인 것은 140℃ 보다 높은 온도에서 혼방사를 이루는 폴리에스터가 높은 열에 의해 굳어지는 경화현상을 방지하기 위함이고, 염색공정의 최저온도가 55℃인 것은 55℃ 보다 낮은 온도에서는 원단의 벌키성을 확보할 수 없기 때문이다.And the maximum temperature of the dyeing process is 140 ° C to prevent hardening of the blend polyester at a temperature higher than 140 ° C due to high heat and a minimum temperature of 55 ° C for the dyeing process is lower than 55 ° C This is because it is impossible to secure the elasticity of the fabric at the temperature.
텐타공정은 상기 염색공정을 거친 원단이 145 ~ 155℃의 온도범위에서 텐타가공이 수행되며, 보다 상세한 형태는 염색공정을 거친 원단이 45m로 펼쳐지고, 온도가 145 ~ 155℃에 유지되는 텐타기계에 의해 분당(min) 30 ~ 500m의 속도로 텐타공정이 수행되도록 한다.In the tenter process, the fabric after the dyeing process is subjected to a tentering process in a temperature range of 145 to 155 ° C. More detailed form is a tentering process in which a fabric having a dyeing process spreads at 45 m and a temperature is maintained at 145 to 155 ° C. So that the tentering process is performed at a speed of 30 to 500 m per minute (min).
이는 편물의 일반적인 텐타가공에 비해 비교적 저온이면서도 길게 펴진 상태로 이루어지기 때문에 생산성 향상은 물론 에너지를 절감할 수 있으며, 원단의 표면이 골고루 건조되어 축율의 변형을 방지되면서도 원단이 융착 경화되어 원단의 과도한 폭 변화와 함께 표면의 소프트감이 급격히 저하되는 것을 방지하여 원단의 편직공정 및 염색공정에서 유지되는 원단의 텐션 및 밀도를 일정하게 유지시켜 보온성 및 신축성을 향상시키는 양질의 원단을 제공할 수 있게 되는 것이다.As compared with general tentering of knitted fabric, since it is made in a state of being opened at a relatively low temperature and long, it is possible to reduce energy as well as productivity, and the surface of the fabric is evenly dried to prevent the deformation of the shrinkage ratio, It is possible to provide a high-quality fabric which improves the warmth and stretchability by keeping the tension and density of the fabric held in the knitting process and the dyeing process of the fabric at a constant level by preventing the softness of the surface from being deteriorated rapidly will be.
한편, 상기 편직공정은 원사에 5 ~ 10gf의 장력을 가한 후 편직이 이루어지는 편직기에 원사를 공급하도록 하며, 이는 5gf 미만의 장력으로 편직기에 공급되면 편직효율이 저하되어 양질의 원단을 제조하지 못하고, 10gf가 초과되는 장력으로 편직기에 공급되면 원사가 지나치게 늘어나 끊어지거나 크랙 등이 발생할 수 있으며, 이러한 원사로 편직된 원단은 뻣뻣해지면서 염색공정 후에 텐션이 발생되지 않으며, 밀도가 촘촘하지 못해 원단의 보온성이 현저히 저하되는 단점을 보완하기 위함이다.Meanwhile, in the knitting step, a yarn is fed to a knitting machine in which knitting is performed after a tension of 5 to 10 gf is applied to the yarn. When the knitting machine is fed with a tension of less than 5 gf, the knitting efficiency is decreased, When the yarn is fed to the knitting machine with a tension exceeding 10 gf, the yarn may excessively stretch and break or crack may occur. Since the fabric knitted by such yarn becomes stiff, tension is not generated after the dyeing process, In order to compensate for the remarkable deterioration of the disadvantages.
따라서 편직공정에서 5 ~ 10gf의 균일한 장력을 가한 원사에 의해 원단이 편직됨으로서 원단의 텐션이 유지되어 신축성이 향상되면서도 원사의 밀도 또한 촘촘하게 이루어지게 되는 효과를 가지게 되는 것이다.Therefore, in the knitting process, the fabric is knitted by the yarn having a uniform tension of 5 to 10 gf, so that the tension of the fabric is maintained to improve the stretchability and the density of the yarn is also tightened.
여기서 상기 염색공정은 염색이 이루어지기 전에 편직공정에서 발생되는 이물을 제거하는 정련단계가 포함된다. Here, the dyeing step includes a refining step of removing foreign matters generated in the knitting process before dyeing is performed.
상기 정련단계는 물 100중량부에 대하여 정련제, 가성소다, 알카리침투제, 과산화수소수, 과수안정제, 유화분산제를 혼합한 혼합물이 3 ~ 6중량부로 혼합된 혼합물에 60∼100℃에서 분당(min) 30 ~ 50m의 속도로 처리된다.The refining step is carried out at a temperature of 60 to 100 DEG C per minute (min) to a mixture of 3 to 6 parts by weight of a mixture of a mixture of a scouring agent, caustic soda, an alkali permeation agent, hydrogen peroxide water, It is processed at a speed of ~ 50m.
정련제는 일반적으로 사용되는 것을 채택하며, 원단으로 편직되는 원사의 오일과 편직과정에서 발생되는 기타 불순물과 오염물질을 제거하도록 한다.Scouring agents are those that are commonly used and are used to remove oil from yarns knitted with fabrics and other impurities and contaminants generated during knitting.
가성소다(수산화나트륨, Sodium hydroxide)는 조해성이 강한 반투명 고체로 물에 용해한 가성소다 용액은 정련제에서 강알카리 성질을 보완되도록 한다.Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) is a semitransparent solid with a strong decomposition and caustic soda solution dissolved in water to make strong alkaline properties in scouring agent.
알칼리침투제는 호발정련 효과를 높이기 위해 정련제의 섬유상 침투력을 높이는 계면활성제로 사용된다.The alkali penetrant is used as a surfactant to enhance the fibrous penetration of the scouring agent to improve the scouring effect.
과산화수소(Hydrogen Perdxide)는 섬유상 색소를 제거하여 직물의 표백효과를 도모하도록 한다.Hydrogen peroxide removes fibrous pigments to help bleach the fabric.
과수안정제는 상기 과산화수소가 용해된 정련제의 처리온도까지 승온관정에서 반응이 격하게 일어나는 현상을 안정적으로 조절하는 작용을 수행하도록 한다.The hydrothermal stabilizer allows the hydrogen peroxide to stably control the phenomenon that the reaction occurs at a temperature elevation to the treatment temperature of the scouring agent dissolved therein.
유화분산제는 정련제에 의해 탈락된 섬유상 불순물의 확산작용으로 재부착을 방지케 하는 계면활성제이다.The emulsifying dispersant is a surfactant which prevents re-adhesion due to the diffusion action of the fibrous impurities removed by the scouring agent.
여기서 상기 혼방사는 스테인레스, 탄소, 알루미늄, 크롬, 니켈이 혼합되어 미립자 형태로 가공한 발열체가 도포되어 혼방사에 의해 편직된 원단에 발열기능을 더욱 향상시키도록 한다.Here, the blend yarn is coated with a heating element processed in a particulate form by mixing stainless steel, carbon, aluminum, chromium, and nickel, thereby further improving the heat generating function on the fabric knitted by the blend yarn.
상기 발열체는 열효율이 좋으며 열에 강해 내구성이 뛰어난 스테인레스가 주재료로 사용되며 탄소, 알루미늄, 크롬, 니켈 등을 첨가 배합하는 정도의 혼합비율을 가지며, 보다 상세하게는 스테인레스 82 ~ 85중량%, 탄소 3 ~ 7중량%, 알루미늄 3 ~ 7중량%, 크롬은 2 ~ 5중량%, 니켈 2 ~ 5중량%가 혼합되어 이루어진다.The heating element has a high thermal efficiency and is resistant to heat and excellent in durability. The stainless steel is used as a main material and has a blending ratio to the extent that carbon, aluminum, chromium, nickel, etc. are added and mixed. More specifically, 7 to 7% by weight of aluminum, 2 to 5% by weight of chromium and 2 to 5% by weight of nickel.
상기와 같은 중량비율을 통해 편직된 혼방사는 원단에 필요한 유연성은 유지시키면서도 발열기능에 영향을 미치는 저항성을 향상시킬 수 있게 되는 것이다.The blend yarn knitted through the weight ratio as described above can improve the resistance that affects the heat generating function while maintaining the flexibility required for the fabric.
또한 발열체에 포함되는 알루미늄은 원단의 전자파가 차단되는 차폐기능을 구비하도록 구성된 것이다.The aluminum contained in the heating element is configured to have a shielding function of shielding the electromagnetic wave of the fabric.
Claims (7)
상기 편직공정에서 완성된 원단을 55 ~ 140℃의 온도범위에서 다수회로 구분되어 수행되는 염색공정;
상기 염색공정을 거친 원단이 145 ~ 155℃의 온도범위에서 텐타가공이 수행되는 텐타공정;
이 포함됨을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.A knitting step of knitting a mixed yarn composed of 65% by weight of rayon and 35% by weight of polyester, DTY yarn (Draw Textured Yarn) and spandex yarn as respective yarns;
A dyeing step in which the fabric finished in the knitting process is divided into a plurality of circuits in a temperature range of 55 to 140 캜;
A tentering process in which the tentering process is performed in a temperature range of 145 to 155 ° C;
Wherein the knitted fabric is a knitted fabric.
상기 편직공정에 사용되는 원사는 혼방사 60 ~ 65중량%, DTY사 30 ~ 35 중량%, 스판덱스사 4 ~ 8 중량%임을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the yarn used in the knitting process is 60 to 65 wt% of a blend yarn, 30 to 35 wt% of DTY yarn, and 4 to 8 wt% of spandex yarn.
상기 편직공정은 원사에 5 ~ 10gf의 장력을 가한 후 편직이 이루어지는 편직기에 원사를 공급함을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.3. The method of claim 2,
Wherein the knitting process is performed by applying a tension of 5 to 10 gf to a yarn, and then supplying the yarn to a knitting machine in which knitting is performed.
상기 염색공정은 120 ~ 140℃에서 25 ~ 35분간 수행되는 1차염색단계와, 75 ~ 95℃에서 5 ~ 15분간 수행되는 2차염색단계와, 55 ~ 65℃에서 35 ~45분간 수행되는 3차염색단계와, 85 ~ 100℃에서 5 ~ 15분간 수행되는 4차염색단계와, 95 ~ 105℃에서 25 ~ 35분간 수행되는 5차염색단계가 순차적으로 이루어짐을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
The dyeing step may include a primary dyeing step performed at 120 to 140 ° C for 25 to 35 minutes, a secondary dyeing step performed at 75 to 95 ° C for 5 to 15 minutes and a dyeing step performed at 55 to 65 ° C for 35 to 45 minutes Wherein the dyeing step is carried out at 85-100 ° C for 5-15 minutes and the fifth dyeing step is carried out at 95-105 ° C for 25-35 minutes.
상기 텐타공정은 염색공정을 거친 원단이 45m로 펼쳐지고, 온도가 145 ~ 155℃에 유지되는 텐타기계에 의해 텐타공정이 분당(min) 30 ~ 500m으로 수행함을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the tentering step is carried out at a tentering time of 30 to 500 m per minute by a tenter machine in which a fabric having a dyeing process is spread at 45 m and a temperature is maintained at 145 to 155 ° C.
상기 염색공정은 염색이 이루어지기 전에 수행되는 정련단계가 포함되고,
상기 정련단계는 물 100중량부에 대하여 정련제, 가성소다, 알카리침투제, 과산화수소수, 과수안정제, 유화분산제를 혼합한 혼합물이 3 ~ 6중량부로 혼합된 혼합물에 60∼100℃에서 분당(min) 30 ~ 50m의 속도로 처리됨을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
The dyeing step includes a refining step performed before dyeing is performed,
The refining step is carried out at a temperature of 60 to 100 DEG C per minute (min) to a mixture of 3 to 6 parts by weight of a mixture of a mixture of a scouring agent, caustic soda, an alkali permeation agent, hydrogen peroxide water, To 50 m. ≪ / RTI >
상기 혼방사에는 스테인레스 82 ~ 85중량%, 탄소 3 ~ 7중량%, 알루미늄 3 ~ 7중량%, 크롬 2 ~ 5중량%, 니켈 2 ~ 5중량%가 혼합되어 미립자 형태로 가공한 발열체가 도포됨을 특징으로 하는 보온성 편물 제조방법.3. The method of claim 2,
The blend yarn is mixed with 82 to 85% by weight of stainless steel, 3 to 7% by weight of carbon, 3 to 7% by weight of aluminum, 2 to 5% by weight of chromium and 2 to 5% By weight.
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| KR20200043635A (en) * | 2018-10-18 | 2020-04-28 | 주식회사 풍기인견편직 | Process Pf Producing Knit Having Mellange Effect And Cooling Touch |
| KR102115740B1 (en) | 2018-10-18 | 2020-05-29 | 주식회사 풍기인견편직 | Process Pf Producing Knit Having Mellange Effect And Cooling Touch |
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