KR101502475B1 - Use of a lipophilic extract of odontella aurita to restructure the skin, compositions used and cosmetic method employing said extract - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic applications for restoration of skin or inhibition of skin breakdown of at least one Odontella Aurita lipophilic extract in a composition.

The present invention also relates to a novel formulation comprising a natural lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita with a transdermal nanocolloidal carrier suitable as a cosmetic or dermatologically suitable active ingredient.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care method for combating skin aging or skin breakdown and / or restructuring the skin.

Odontella aurita, lipophilic extract, skin, anti-aging, cosmetics

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0001] The present invention relates to a composition for skin re-structuring of a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita, a composition to be used, and a cosmetic method using the extract, wherein the extract is a cosmetic composition,

The present invention relates to the use of at least one lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita in a cosmetic composition as a skin remodeling agent, in particular as an antioxidant.

Skin is a collection of cells gathered in the form of a strong, flexible tissue covering the whole body. The primary function of the skin is to create a protective barrier against environmental attacks while allowing a constant exchange between the internal and external environment. Skin is a place where many metabolic processes are controlled by physiological and environmental conditions of an organism. The skin is formed by two connecting layers, the epidermis and the dermis, to which subcutaneous tissue can be joined.

The epidermis, which mainly acts to protect the body, constitutes the uppermost layer of the skin and imparts impermeability and strength to the skin. The epidermis is regenerated by itself every four weeks. Various cell types coexist in the epidermis, with most keratinocytes (90%). The characteristic activity of keratinocytes is the synthesis of keratin, which accounts for 95% of total proteins in the epidermis. The inhale-insoluble fibrous protein, keratin, is a component of the stratum corneum of the epidermis that protects the skin against external attacks such as heat, cold, and dehydration.

The epidermis is bound to the dermis through a zone called a dermis-epidermal junction or epidermal basement membrane. This structure binds the dermis to the epidermis and acts as a mechanical support that partially affects skin tension. It contains both basal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts, and contains large amounts of type IV collagen contained in the fixative, which connects the basement membrane to the fixation band present in the papillary dermis.

The dermis, the inner layer of the skin, is a resilient fiber connective tissue composed of cells and fibroblasts dispersed in a complex medium called an extracellular matrix. These substrates consist of collagen and elastin fibers, glycoproteins, namely proteoglycans, formed by the addition of glycosaminoglycans or GAGS to fibronectin and laminin and central proteins.

The nature and amount of these various ingredients dominate the mechanical properties of the skin and are the most visible cause of physiopathological changes in skin conditions that can be observed during aging. The fibers provide the skin with firmness, strength, resilience and tension. Glycoproteins and proteoglycans provide volume and are involved in skin moisturization.

Collagen, which is a protein that makes up 75% of the dermis, especially fibrillar collagen types I and III, forms a fibrous network of dermis. They play a mechanical role by giving most of the skin's supple and elasticity to the skin. Their specific spatial arrangement provides rigidity to the dermis tissue and thus contributes to its mechanical action. They originate from procollagen, a precursor synthesized by fibroblasts.

Proteoglycans dispersed among the fibers of the dermal connective tissue provide most of the skin tension. Proteoglycans have a negative charge that captures ions, water and various metabolites due to their structure (glycosaminoglycan and polymer formed by long-chain polysaccharides), which is primarily responsible for skin moisturization and resistance to pressure and stretching forces .

With aging, the skin becomes wrinkled, stretched, less moisturized and more difficult to repair. These clinical signs that affect appearance or cause skin disorders are inherently endogenous processes, such as extrinsic processes due to environmental factors such as pollution, action of ultraviolet rays, and chronological aging beginning at age 20 Nested results are produced.

Aging initially affects the epidermis. The cleavage capacity of keratinocytes in the basal layer is reduced and the renewal time of the keratinous surface layer is increased. This decrease in the ability of the epidermal cell to divide also reduces the enzyme (SIR2) group, especially the enzyme SIRT1, which is involved in "cell longevity".

Cell maturation is incomplete and keratinization activity can no longer produce regular and uniform stratum corneum, so the thickness of the epidermis may decrease, become dry, and become rough. At the same time, the organization of the deep skin is reduced. The dermis, which plays a fundamental role in the nutrition and aggregation of the skin, is a major target for skin damage. During aging, fibroblasts, the source of skin constituents, disappeared or transformed into fibroblasts. Thus, it is observed that the amount of fibronectin is reduced (1). Fibronectin plays a major role in adhesion and cell function and in reducing the number and quality of elastic fibers.

Reduced skin thickness and elasticity loss of the dermis result in a decrease in the amount of collagen (2) (1% per year), a decrease in the amount of glycosaminoglycan (3) and a decrease in the amount of TIMP1 ). ≪ / RTI >

The loss of flexibility in the binding of dermal cells together is the source of various bruises and lacerations that can be observed in the elderly. This also explains the appearance of submandibular pouches and skin wrinkles and the prominence of dermal lesions in mild trauma.

Longevity studies associated with desire to maintain a young appearance have been stimulated to understand skin structure changes during aging. The occurrence of wrinkles and fine wrinkles is primarily due to the structural tissues of the skin, that is, connective tissue, keratinocyte, and fibroblast tissue. Among these components, collagen, elastin, and keratin all play a substantial role in the external transformation of the skin. Anti-aging cosmetics work on some of these. Many facial "lifting" treatments and programs are being traded, aimed at reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. They usually act on the surface of the skin or only on one of the above-mentioned target proteins, and the effect is only temporary or only partially satisfactory. In addition, many of the applied compounds are not toxic at all and if applied continuously, they can cause skin problems such as skin irritation. Since these are frequently produced using chemical synthesis and extraction from natural materials, the manufacturing process is long and expensive.

For these reasons, there is a need for a compound or composition that does not have the above-mentioned disadvantages, i.e. is non-toxic, easy to obtain, and simultaneously acts on multiple protein targets.

Surprisingly, Applicants have discovered that a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita can act on a plurality of these targets simultaneously in both the dermis and the epidermis, and as a result can act at multiple levels simultaneously. These extracts also have the advantage of being easy to separate and use. Furthermore, these extracts have very low or even no toxicity to organisms due to their nature, i.e. their affinity for a particular sterol.

The lipid extracts obtained from Odontella aurita are known (CTFA 12540) and have been disclosed in French patent document (FR-A-2 795 958) for use in the field of obesity inhibition.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to cosmetic use as a formulation for restructuring the skin of a lipophilic extract of at least one Odontella aurita or for avoiding breakage of the skin. In addition, the present invention relates to a preparation for prevention of skin re-structuring and skin breakage comprising lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita.

In particular, the present invention relates to the use of the lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita in the composition for the prevention of endogenous or extrinsic aging of the skin, in particular the improvement of the elasticity or tautness of the skin and / or the prevention, reduction and / ≪ / RTI > The present invention also relates to a pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of endogenous or exogenous skin aging, comprising a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita, and a composition for improving the elasticity and / or tautness of the skin and / or preventing the occurrence of wrinkles or fine wrinkles, / RTI > and / or inhibiting < / RTI >

In a further aspect, the invention relates to the use of lipophilic extracts of Odontella aurita for improving skin renewal or skin regeneration after peeling, chemical peeling or laser regeneration. The present invention also relates to an agent for improving skin regeneration after peeling, chemical peeling, or laser regeneration, which comprises a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita.

More precisely, the present invention relates to the use of a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita for improving and / or stimulating the synthesis of procollagen, fibronectin, glycosaminoglycan and / or SIRTl. The present invention also relates to an agent for improving and / or stimulating the synthesis of procollagen, fibronectin, glycosaminoglycan and / or SIRT1, comprising a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita and a transdermal mediator. The transdermal vehicle is a nanocolloidal or nano-particle type, preferably a nanocolloidal type. Examples of nanocolloidal transdermal vehicles that may be mentioned are nanoemulsions, liposomes and cyclodextrins.

Finally, the present invention also relates to a method for the care and / or treatment of skin aging or skin breakdown, comprising applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising at least one lipid extract of Odontella aurita and comprising a cosmetically acceptable carrier, Or to a method of make-up for prevention.

Using the lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita, it is possible to simultaneously act on a plurality of these targets both in the dermis and in the epidermis, so that they can act at multiple levels simultaneously. These extracts also have the advantage of being easy to separate and use. Furthermore, these extracts have very low or even no toxicity to organisms due to their nature, i.e. their affinity for a particular sterol.

As will be apparent from the following detailed description, and particularly from the following examples, the lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita or a cosmetic composition containing such an extract can stimulate the epidermal structure of human skin, Increase the number of living cell layers and increase the thickness of the epidermis.

Furthermore, in the specific tests for measuring the expression or mitotic index of GAG, fibronectin or sirtuins, the use of lipophilic extracts according to the present application results in positive results. In other words, the mitotic index increases relative to the control or acts on the papillary dermis, especially the epidermal segments located along the dermal-epidermal junction, and not only increases GAG in fibroblasts, but also increases SIRT1 and / The density of fibronectin is high. This means that the epidermis and dermis are potentially restructured under the action of a lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita.

According to the present invention, a lipophilic extract of any Odontella aurita, which is cyanobacteria, microalgae or plankton, can be used. The collected plankton is treated by a conventional method to obtain a lipophilic extract.

These lipophilic extracts of Odontella aurita can be obtained using conventional extraction methods using organic solvents such as, for example, hexane or dichloromethane. However, any method capable of extracting the lipid phase of Odontella aurita or any method for extracting the lipophilic extract from such plankton can be used. Thus, FR-A-2 795 958 discloses an extraction process using a supercritical fluid such as carbon dioxide. Finally, Odontella aurita oil is commercially available from Codif.

These lipid extracts are lipophilic. Any oil or silicone oil or other lipophilic extracts in other cosmetically acceptable lipophilic materials are suitable for use in the present invention.

The lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita is used in an amount of 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition weight, of the composition used in the practice of the present invention Lt; / RTI >

As used herein, the term "transdermal mediator" refers to any carrier capable of causing the extract to penetrate the skin. In particular, such carriers are nanocolloids.

The term "nano colloid " means a monodisperse non-noble form of any nanoscale dimension with dimensions less than about 200 nm. This is typically a surfactant-based emulsion. Nano-colloids typically contain nano-emulsions (monolayer surfactants) but small-sized liposomes (one or more of the natural phospholipid type of two-layer surfactants) or α. beta] or [gamma] -cyclodextrin.

Cosmetic compositions for use in accordance with the present invention are intended for topical use and may be any of the conventional herbicidal forms conventionally used for this type of application, especially oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, w / o emulsion, (W / O / W) emulsion type, aqueous gel or aqueous solution, water-alcohol solution or oily solution in a heavy oil (O / W / O) triple emulsion type or an oil in water. Thus, transdermal vehicles may include O / W, W / O, O / W / O, W / O / W emulsions, gels or lipid solutions. They may be fluid to some extent and may be in the form of white or colored cream, pomade, milk, lotion, serum, paste, foam or two-phase solution. They may also be solid, for example stick or aerosol.

In addition to lipophilic Odontella aurita, the compositions used in the context of the present invention contain one or more excipients which can be selected from compounds having good compatibility with the active ingredient present in the formulation. Examples include water soluble natural polymers such as polysaccharides (xanthan gum, carob rubber, peptin, etc.) or polypeptides, methylcellulose cellulosic derivatives, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or synthetic polymers, poloxamers, carbomers or polyvinyls Acrylate (PVA) or polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) type gelling agent.

Finally, the compositions of the present invention may also contain a variety of other cosmeceutical excipients such as ethanol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, wetting agents such as glycerol, diffusion aids such as urea or an antibacterial preservative such as 0.15% methyl p-hydroxybenzo ≪ / RTI >

They may also contain surfactants, stabilizers, emulsifiers, thickeners, other active ingredients which cause supplementary or synergistic effects, oligo-elements, essential oils, fragrances, colorants, collagen, chemical or inorganic filters, moisturizing agents or hot water .

The Odontella aurita extract may be combined with one or more other active ingredients, such as a humectant.

The method of the present invention is carried out in a conventional manner, for example, by daily application, twice a day or every time the skin is cleaned, or by topically applying the composition of the present application intensively after peeling, peeling and laser treatment.

The method can be applied to all skins and the composition of the present invention may be applied to the face but may be provided to be applied to other parts of the body and the formulation may be distinguished according to zones and / It can be enemy.

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting the scope of the invention in any way.

Active measurement

Study on restructuring and aging activity of preparations containing lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita

The study was conducted in 36 eateries of human skin obtained from abdominal skin cosmetic surgery performed on a 49 year old female.

All of the above dishes were kept alive for 4 days in the culture medium. 30 μl of a lipid extract of Odontella aurita (Codif) diluted in an oily solvent (caprylic capric triglyceride, 'Myritol 318 Neutral Oil' from COGNIS) and immersed on a sterilized paper surface is topically applied to the meal Lt; / RTI > Three treatments of each batch (control 10% lipid extract, 1% lipid extract) were removed and prepared for histological studies at days 0 and 4 (D0 and D4) of the treatments. The evaluation of the general morphology, mitotic index and expression of glycosaminoglycan without acid groups was described and the following results were obtained.

I. General Morphology

"Histochimie normale et pathologique" [Normal and pathological Histochemistry] by P Ganter and G Jolles, pub. Gautier Villars (1970)]. All of the eating habits were observed, from the fourth day of treatment, the application of diluted lipid extract of Odontella aurita at two test concentrations induced a stimulation of the epidermal structure to increase the number of viable cell layers. The increase in epidermal thickness was greater after application of the 10% lipid extract of Odontella aurita.

Ⅱ. Mitotic index

The mitotic index was determined using the method described in "Effect of raloxaphene on breast cancer cells - Ki67 apoptosis ", M Dowsett, published in cancer Epidemiology Biomarkers, September (2001).

On the biopsy piece, mitotic cells were labeled with anti-Ki67, monoclonal antibody clone 7B11, mouse IgG1. Fixed in acetone and labeled on frozen sections. Anti-Ki67 was diluted 1/100 in PBS and treated at room temperature for 2 hours. And refolded using a Vectastain RTU universal vector revealing kit (reference PK-7200). 40 objective lens, and the result was averaged to the skin length (cm).

G1, S, G2 and M groups of anti-Ki67-labeled cells

[Table I]

process No (control) menstruum OA 1% OA 10% Mitotic index 35 35 80 115

As can be seen in Table I, the mitotic index observed in D4 on skin biopsies treated with lipid extracts of Odontella aurita had higher values than those obtained with the untreated control and extract diluent solvents. The value increased with dose of extract.

Ⅲ. Expression of glycosaminoglycan (GAG)

Expression of GAG was investigated using a method disclosed in "Formulaire de techniques histologiques" [Formulary of histological techniques] by Jean Chevreau, Jacqueline Bellot and Marie-Jose Cabanier, publishers Maloine, 1956.

Histologic sections of the cutaneous ectoparasites were stained with Alcian blue PAS specific for GAG without acid and treated with the lipid extract of Odontella aurita at two test concentrations, Respectively. This effect, which is apparently apparent in D4, is characterized by an increase in the number of fibroblasts that are apparently PAS positive in the papillary dermis, particularly in the epidermal segments located along the dermal-epidermal junction, and to increase the GAG of such fibroblasts.

IV. Expression of fibronectin or SIRT1 (SIRT1)

Expression of fibronectin or SIRT1 (SIRT1) is described in Acta Derm Venereol 1979; 59 (6): 487-92 by Fyrand O "Studies on fibronectin in the skin. III. Indirect immunofluorescence studies in lichen planus ", to detect fibronectin, and in Soc Cosm Chem. , the human homologue to Sir 2 etc ", 2005, 65-66, to detect SIRT1).

A biopsy piece of skin treated with D4 as a lipid extract of Odontella aurita was labeled with a specific anti-SIRT1 and anti-fibronectin antibody and compared to the biopsy piece of skin treated with a solvent or an untreated control, the density of the SIRT1 and fibronectin molecules .

conclusion

The above observations confirmed the restructuring of epidermis and jejuni by action of lipid extract of Odontella aurita.

This type of modification refers to the criteria for younger and recovered skin.

Produce Example

The following preparations were prepared in a manner which is standard to the person skilled in the art. In Examples 1 to 4, after heating to 80 DEG C, the aqueous phase and the lipid phase were mixed and emulsified by vigorous stirring.

The lipid extract of Odontella aurita was supplied by Codif.

Example 1: Restructuring cream for aging skin

A - aqueous phase

Glycerin 2.0%

Phenylene glycol 3.0%

Xanthan gum 0.5%

Preservative proper amount

Carbomer 0.35%

Appropriate amount of water 100%

B-lipid phase

Squalane 15%

Cetyl alcohol 2%

Arachidyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside 1%

Glycerol stearate 5%

Lipid extract of Odontella aurita 1%

Water 1.5%

NaOH 0.35%

Preservative + perfume suitable amount

Example 2: Normal skin moisturizing cream

A - lipid phase

Ceteareth -2 3.5%

Cetearyl-21 2-4%

Malt oil 3%

Cyclomethicone 7%

Octyl palmitate 8%

Lipid extract of Odontella aurita 0.01%

B - aqueous phase

Appropriate amount of water 100%

Glycerin 7.0%

Pentylene glycol 3.0%

Preservative proper amount

C - a component added to the emulsion at a temperature below 40 ° C

Sodium hyaluronate 0.1%

Water 5%

Tocopherol 0.05%

Vitamin A palmitate 0.1%

Phospholipids 0.5%

0.1% of ceramide 3 (stearoyl-C18-phytosphine)

Example 3: Cream and milk for sun-exposed skin exposed to sunlight

A - lipid phase Glycerol monostearate 2% PEG-100 stearate 3% C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 10% The lipid extract of Odontella aurita 5% Dimethicone 5% Tocopherol acetate One% Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl-hexylbenzoate 4.0% Ethyl hexylmethoxycinnamate 5.0% Cetostearyl alcohol One% B - aqueous phase water 100% appropriate amount Preservative 0.6% glycerin 7% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Carbomer 0.5% Sodium EDTA 0.2% Sodium hyaluronate 0.1% water 5% NaOH 0.5% Preservative + fragrance Proper amount

Example 4: Anti-wrinkle cream

A - lipid phase The lipid extract of Odontella aurita 10% Squalane 5% Cetyl alcohol 2% Dimethicone 5% Octyl palmitate 5% B - aqueous phase Butylene glycol 0.5 to 4% water 100% appropriate amount glycerin 2.0% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Xanthan rubber 0.5% Preservative Proper amount C - a component added to the emulsion at a temperature below 40 ° C Tocopherol acetate 0.1 to 1% Pyroxidine 0.01 to 0.05% Vitamin A palmitate 0.01 to 1% d-Panthenol 0.1 to 1% Citric acid 0.1 to 0.5% Zinc gluconate 0.1 to 1% Trisodium citrate 1 to 2.5% water 5%

Example 5: Makeup removal lotion for mature skin

Polysorbate 20 1.0% Caprylyl / caprylic glucoside 2.0% The lipid extract of Odontella aurita 0.1% Pentylene glycol 4-5% d-Panthenol 0.1% Mannitol 0.02% water 100% appropriate amount

Example 6: Regenerating oil for weak skin lacking nutrition

Ethylhexyl palmitate 45% Cyclomethicone 30% The lipid extract of Odontella aurita 2% Tocopheryl acetate 0.5% Dipropylene glycol 0.5% Tripyrinoline 0.1% Soya oil 100% appropriate amount

Example 7: Odontella auranta nano colloid-type anti-aging serum

- 1 - Preparation of nano colloid of Odontella aurita lipid extract

The lipid extract of Odontella aurita dissolved in 10% of the oil (Myritol 318-caprylic capric triglyceride) was mixed with an emulsifier (Axol C62 -glyceryl stearate citrate, Degussa) which is vegetable and edible and HLB 12 Stabilized. The seawater / mineral water aqua (Marine Springs Water, SOMAIG, Ile Grande) was diluted 1/4 in mineral water (Source Ste Alix, Brittany) containing 10% glycol and 0.1% sodium ascorbate.

This was prepared as follows. The emulsifier was dispersed for 3 minutes on a hot, aqueous phase using a RAYNERI VMI TURBOTEST. The first mixture was homogenized at high pressure: once at 700 bar (Lab 1000, APV). And allowed to cool at room temperature. Additive and geothermal extract of Odontella aurita, a thermophilic adult, were added and homogenized using rotor / wing. The mixture was again homogenized at high pressure (700 bar, once).

Particle size and monodispersibility were confirmed by optical diffraction method (MASTERSIZER HYDRO 2000S, MALVERN INSTRUMENTS laser particle size meter).

The particle size was about 200 nm.

- 2 - Composition of Odontella auritana nano colloid type antioxidant serum

Sodium hyaluronate (2.7 million daltons) One% The stabilized odontella auranta nano emulsion (see -1-) 5% Glycol 10% Marine Spring Water 21% mineral water 63%

Example

Human studies on the activity of the Odontella aurantanum colloid-type anti-aging serum

The study was conducted in two groups of 15 (30-60 years old).

- one group (mean age 41 years) with the odonella auritana nano colloid-type serum excipient, placebo, of Example 7 (-2-) in the morning and evening for 49 days without interruption;

One group (mean age 45 years old) with oedontraa auranta nanocolloidal antioxidant serum of Example 7 (-2-) in the morning and evening for 49 days without interruption.

At the end of the treatment, the personnel were asked.

The responses are given in% in Table II below.

[Table II]

Positive answer % Placebo Nano colloidal anti-aging serum Relaxed wrinkles 20 53.4 Improving facial characteristics 33.4 40 Alleviation of signs of aging 20 26.7 Smoother skin 53.3 100 More sensitive skin 46.7 93.4 More intense skin 33.4 60 Regenerated skin 40 73.4 More elastic skin 60 93.3

References

Claims (13)

The present invention relates to a lipophilic extract of Odontella Aurita as an active ingredient for improving elasticity, tautness or elasticity and tautness of the skin and for preventing, reducing or suppressing the occurrence of wrinkles or fine wrinkles of the skin / RTI > The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, for the improvement of endogenous or exogenous skin aging. delete The cosmetic composition of claim 1, for the improvement of skin regeneration after peeling, chemical peeling or laser regeneration. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, 2, or 4, for improving or stimulating the synthesis of procollagen, fibronectin, glycosaminoglycan or SIRT1. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising a transdermal carrier of the nanocolloidal or nano emulsion type. delete 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the transdermal carrier is a liposome-type transdermal agent. 7. The cosmetic composition of claim 6, wherein the transdermal vehicle is a transdermal agent of the cyclodextrin (s) type. The composition of claim 6, wherein the composition is selected from the group consisting of w / o, oil / water, water / oil / water / oil / Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 > lipophilic < / RTI > liquid. 11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6 or 10, wherein the lipophilic extract of Odontella aurita is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total composition weight. delete delete