KR101223805B1 - Manufacturing method of cosmetic composition having shea butter - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising shea butter, and specifically, by passing through a melt-filtration-cooling-quick freezing-thaw-freezing process under a 'specific temperature and time', By atomizing and allowing the active ingredients of shea butter to be absorbed to the stratum corneum, basal layer and dermis layer, it not only improves skin penetrability and application ability, but also maximizes the benefits of shea butter's moisturizing, blackening and skin whitening. It relates to a method for producing a cosmetic composition containing shea butter.

Description

Manufacturing method of cosmetic composition containing shea butter {MANUFACTURING METHOD OF COSMETIC COMPOSITION HAVING SHEA BUTTER}

The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic composition comprising shea butter, and more specifically, by passing through a melt-filtration-cooling-quick freezing-thaw-freezing process under a 'specific temperature and time', The present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising shea butter, which can maximize the effect of shea butter, such as moisturizing, blackening, skin whitening, as well as ultra-fine and thereby improve skin permeability, application properties.

In general, the skin plays a very important role as a barrier function to protect the individual from the outside. Barrier function means protection against various stimuli (chemicals, air pollutants, dry environment, ultraviolet rays, etc.) from the outside and protection against excessive release of moisture through the skin. The function can be maintained only when the configured stratum corneum is normally formed.

The outermost stratum corneum (horney layer) is formed from keratinocytes and consists of the differentiated keratinocytes and the surrounding lipid layer (Marcelo CL et al, J. Invest. Dermatol. , 80, pp37-44,1983)

The keratinocytes are characteristic cells that have undergone morphological and functional changes in basal cells that continuously proliferate in the lower epidermis, and rise to the surface of the skin. The new keratinocytes are eliminated from this function and take over the function. This repetitive process of change is called "epidermal differentiation" or "keratinization".

In addition, during keratinization, keratinocytes form a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and intercellular fats (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids), forming a stratum corneum, which makes the stratum corneum firm and flexible, thus creating a skin barrier. function as a barrier.

The stratum corneum can easily lose its function due to excessive face washing, lifestyle factors such as bathing, environmental factors such as dry air pollutants, and endogenous diseases such as atopic or senile skin. Recently, due to a variety of factors, more and more skin complaints and dry skin complaints are increasing in recent years.

Therefore, various studies have been conducted to supply moisture from the outside or to prevent water loss from the body in order to maintain proper skin moisture, and to retain moisture in the stratum corneum such as ceramides and essential fatty acids and lipid complexes. It is common to use a substance that can increase the concentration of (Rawlings AV et al, J. Invest. Dermatol., 5, pp 731-741, 1994).

However, in recent years, the risk factors for the skin are gradually increasing, and the changes in dietary patterns slow down the formation and dropping rate of the stratum corneum, and the amount of moisturizing factors and lipids in the stratum corneum decreases due to the deterioration of the function of keratinocytes. There is a growing number of people with skin that do not function as a skin barrier.

This disruption of the skin barrier function causes skin problems such as skin dryness, atopic dermatitis, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin blackening, psoriasis, excessive keratin lifting. However, these problems, as described above, are mostly prevented or alleviated when the skin is steadily maintained to give firmness and flexibility to the stratum corneum.

Therefore, cosmetics such as various moisturizers are used to maintain proper skin moisture (supply or loss prevention).

However, cosmetics, such as commonly used moisturizers are mostly a mixture of artificially combined chemical substances, the abuse and misuse of such chemical substances cause the skin's self-immunity. In other words, the skin is temporarily effective in hydrating the skin or preventing the loss of moisture, but the skin loses its ability to generate a natural moisturizing factor by itself.

Therefore, cosmetics have recently been developed that excludes chemical substances and is made from 100% natural substances derived from plants, and is representative of Aloe Butter and Cocoa butter, collectively referred to as 'plant derived butter'. Butter, Shea Butter, Pistachio Butter, Avocado Butter, Mango Butter, Soy Butter, Almond Butter, Olive Butter ), Wheat Germ Butter, Cupuacu Butter, Jojoba Butter, Macadamia Seed Butter, Apricot Butter, Grape Seed Butter, Hemp Butter, Illipi Butter, Kokum Butter and Sal Butter are known.

In particular, the shea butter is a vegetable oil obtained from the fruit of the shea tree (shea tree) is not a mutual rejection reaction with human skin has recently been spotlighted as a skin moisturizer or emollient.

However, conventional cosmetics such as moisturizers using shea butter are produced in the form of filling the packaging container after simple melting and cooling. However, in the case of shea butter, the particles are relatively large, so that there is a problem that the skin penetration and application properties are inadequate only by simple melting and cooling, which does not sufficiently express the effects of the moisturizing, blackening, skin whitening, etc. There was a problem.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has undergone a melt-filtration-cooling-quick-freezing-thaw-freezing process under a 'specific temperature and time' to thereby ultrafine particles of shea butter and thereby penetrate skin and applyability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing a cosmetic composition containing shea butter, which can maximize the effects of shea butter, such as moisturizing, blackening prevention, and skin whitening.

The present invention, in the method for producing a cosmetic composition comprising a shea butter (Shea Butter), the melting step (S1) of 100% by weight of the butter butter for 2 to 3 hours at a temperature of 60 ~ 70 ℃; Filtration step (S2) for filtering the melted shea butter using a filter cloth of 6-7 ply; Cooling step (S3) to cool so that the temperature of the filtered shea butter is 27 ~ 30 ℃; A first freezing step (S4) of rapidly cooling the cooled shea butter at a temperature of -20 to -23 ° C for 1 to 2 hours; Thawing the frozen shea butter in an antimicrobial ceramic microwave oven for 5-6 minutes (S5); And a secondary freezing step (S6) for freezing the thawed shea butter at a temperature of -20 to -23 ° C. for 3 to 4 hours. As a solution of

On the other hand, the melting step (S1), it is preferable to stir every 5 seconds to 10 seconds while stirring.

In addition, in the melting step (S1), the acidity is measured by litmus paper at the time of hot water, it is preferable that the acidity is PH4 ~ 4.5.

According to the present invention, as the particles of the shea butter are ultra-fine particles, not only do the skin penetrating power, the spreadability of the shea butter, but also have the effect of maximizing the moisturizing, blackening prevention, skin whitening and the like of the shea butter.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail, and reference to configurations and actions easily understood by those skilled in the art of preparing cosmetic compositions in general is omitted or omitted.

The present invention is a method for producing a cosmetic composition comprising shea butter (Shea Butter),

Melting step (S1) of 100% by weight of butter butter for 2 to 3 hours at a temperature of 60 ~ 70 ℃;

Filtration step (S2) for filtering the melted shea butter using a filter cloth of 6-7 ply;

Cooling step (S3) to cool so that the temperature of the filtered shea butter is 27 ~ 30 ℃;

A first freezing step (S4) of rapidly cooling the cooled shea butter at a temperature of -20 to -23 ° C for 1 to 2 hours;

Thawing the frozen shea butter in an antimicrobial ceramic microwave oven for 5-6 minutes (S5); And

The thawed shea butter is characterized in that it comprises a secondary freezing step (S6) for freezing for 3 to 4 hours at a temperature of -20 ~ -23 ℃.

As described above in the present invention, the reason for the melt-filtration-cooling-quick freezing-thaw-freezing process is to ultrafine the particles of shea butter.

That is, while discharging the moisture in the shea butter particles through the melting as described above, in the state of suppressing the loss of moisture through cooling, by freezing the water to expand the volume by rapid freezing, thereafter repeated thawing and freezing As a result of the repeated expansion and contraction of the volume of the particles, the particles are pulverized by themselves and ultrafine.

Therefore, the ultra-fine particles of the shea butter as described above, the surface tension of the shea butter is lowered and the partial pressure is increased to increase the penetration of the skin, in particular the stratum corneum layer, thereby absorbing the shea butter to the base layer and the dermis layer.

In other words, the active ingredients of the shea butter is also improved absorption is to maximize the efficacy of skin moisturizing, blackening prevention, skin whitening.

On the other hand, the shea butter used in the present invention is a vegetable oil collected from the fruit of the cher tree, and has a solid or semi-solid form depending on the temperature.

Here, the shea butter used in the present invention is in the form of a solid analogue, surface adhesiveness of -5 ~ -49g, pick up (Pick up) 3.0 ~ 4.0mg, melting point 30 ~ 38 ℃ use.

At this time, if the shea butter used in the present invention is less than the above conditions, there is a problem that you need to apply more than two times to the skin, if the above conditions, there is a problem that the application is thick and insufficient application.

Looking at the critical significance of the characteristic manufacturing method of the present invention,

Melting step (S1) of the present invention, the 100% by weight of the butter, the step of hot water for 2 to 3 hours at a temperature of 60 ~ 70 ℃, during stirring, stir every 5 seconds to 10 seconds.

In addition, while the acidity is often measured with litmus paper, it is preferable that the acidity is PH4 to 4.5.

In the melting step (S1), if less than the above conditions, the amount of water discharged from the shea butter is not super fine, and if it exceeds the above conditions, the amount of water discharged from the shea butter is excessive after the completion of the process, There is a problem that can not properly express efficacy.

Filtration step (S2) of the present invention, the step of filtering the melted shea butter using a filter cloth of 6-7 ply, when using a conventional filter cloth and the amount of the filter cloth is less than 6 layers, aggregated during melting There is a problem that some particles are not filtered properly, if more than 7 ply, there is a problem that productivity is reduced because the amount derived after filtration is insufficient.

Cooling step (S3) of the present invention, to suppress the evaporation of the water discharged from the melting step (S1), the step of cooling the temperature of the filtered shea butter to 27 ~ 30 ℃, the cooling step In (S3), if less than the above conditions, the water is agglomerated and can not be expected to expand the volume in the first freezing step (S4) to be described later, because of this there is a limit to ultrafine, if the above conditions, There is a problem that cannot suppress evaporation.

The first freezing step (S4) of the present invention is a step of rapidly freezing the cooled shea butter for 1-2 hours at a temperature of -20 ~ -23 ℃, in the first freezing step (S4), the conditions If less than or above the above conditions, there is a problem that the spreading efficiency of the particles can be reduced rather than uniform expansion efficiency of the particles.

The thawing step (S5) of the present invention is a step of thawing the frozen shea butter in an antimicrobial ceramic microwave oven for 5 to 6 minutes, preferably thawing through a conventional thawing apparatus, in the thawing step (S5), If less than or above the conditions, there is a problem that the particles are not ultra-fine particles because the reduction efficiency of the particles is not uniform.

Secondary freezing step (S6) of the present invention is a step of freezing the thawed shea butter at a temperature of -20 ~ -23 ℃ 3-4 hours, in the second freezing step (S6), less than the above conditions or the When the condition is exceeded, as in the first freezing step (S4), there is a problem in that the expansion efficiency of the particles is not uniform, which can reduce the spreadability.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples, but are not necessarily limited to the examples, and may be modified according to the production amount of the shea butter, the user, and the like.

1. Preparation of Cosmetic Composition Containing Shea Butter

(Example)

100% by weight of shea butter was stirred at a temperature of 65 ° C. every 10 seconds for 2 hours, after which the acidity was pH 4 to 4.5 using litmus paper. It was filtered using.

Thereafter, the filtered shea butter is cooled to 27 ° C., rapidly frozen at −23 ° C. for 2 hours, and then the frozen shea butter is thawed for 6 minutes in an antimicrobial ceramic microwave oven, and then again at -20 to − After freezing at a temperature of 23 ° C. for 3 hours, a cosmetic composition including shea butter was prepared.

(Comparative Example)

After melting 100% by weight of the shea butter at a temperature of 80 ℃, cooled to 25 ℃, to prepare a cosmetic composition comprising the shea butter.

As described above, according to the present invention, a cosmetic composition composed of 100% by weight of shea butter was prepared through a melt-filtration-cooling-quick-freeze-thaw-freezing process, and Comparative Examples are commonly used in the art. A cosmetic composition composed of 100% by weight of shea butter was prepared through a simple melt-cooling process.

2. Comparison of Examples and Comparative Examples

The skin permeability and application of the Examples and Comparative Examples prepared as described above were measured, and moisturizing, blackening prevention and skin whitening were measured and compared as follows.

end. Comparison of application properties

The cosmetic composition prepared by the above Examples and Comparative Examples were subjected to the sensory test for applicability by using 30 women 20-40 years old as a subject.

In the measurement method, each item was graded and scored from 0 to 15, and the average score was given to 30 people. Each experiment was carried out five times, the results are summarized in Table 1 below. In Table 1, the average score was less than 4.0, "x", 4.0-8.0 were "△", 8.1-12.0 were "(circle)", and the thing exceeding 12.0 was shown as "(◎)", respectively.

I. Skin Penetration Comparison

Dermal Equivalent (DE) was used to measure the effect of skin penetration. The skin equivalent was 1 × 10 ⁵ cells / ml of normal human fibroblasts, and 3 mg / ml of gel structure similar to the fibrous tissue that forms the connective tissue of the human body. Collagen aqueous solution: 5 × DMEM: inoculated in a medium mixed with 7: 2: 1 of 0.05 N sodium hydroxide containing 2.2% sodium bicarbonate and 200 mM Hepes buffer, and incubated at 5% CO ₂ , 37 ° C for 7 days. It is.

It is placed inside the plate separated by the inside and the outside by a membrane made of a 3 μm porous polycarbonate material, and epidermal Keratinocyte on the surface of Derma Equivalent (DE) where the fibroblasts were cultured. ) Inoculated with 1 X 10 ⁵ cell / ㎖ cells and cultured for 7 days in the inner and outer K-SFM medium containing EGF and BPE. Afterwards, the medium inside the plate was discarded to allow the air to come into contact with the surface of the cultured cells. The medium was mixed with KSFM containing 10% FBS and DMEM without EGF in the same amount and incubated for 2 weeks. Artificial skin with dermis was obtained.

The Example and Comparative Example were applied to the artificial skin tissue of the top layer, and the amount of infiltration after 4 hours was analyzed by HPLC, and the results are shown in Table 1 below.

All. Moisturizing Comparison

Based on the results of conductance measurements on the skin surface, sensory tests were conducted on 30 women aged 20 to 40 years. ? Indicates a remarkable moisturizing effect, ○ indicates a moisturizing effect, and Δ means that no moisturizing effect is confirmed, and × indicates that the moisturizing effect is not confirmed. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

On the other hand, the conductance measurement of the skin surface, after wiping the inner part of the upper arm with ethanol, and applying the cosmetic composition according to the above Examples and Comparative Examples in an area of 3cm radius, the conductance of the corresponding part 60 minutes after that state Was measured in a room having a temperature of 19 to 21 ° C. and a relative humidity of 30 to 40% using a high frequency conductivity meter (SKICON-200, IBS Corporation).

la. Blackening prevention performance comparison

Anti-blackening performance was measured through the evaluation of the inhibitory ability of melanin in skin cells, B16F1 melanoma cells were used. The B16F1 melanoma cells are melanin-producing cell lines, and the medium for culturing the cells was made aseptically by adding DMEM, 10% FBS, and 1% penicillin / streptomycin. Cell cultures were incubated in an incubator at 37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ , and passaged when melanoma cells were cultured when the 100 mm Petri dishes were about 90% full.

Thereafter, the cosmetic compositions according to the above Examples and Comparative Examples were treated with B16F1 melanoma cells to determine the amount of melanin produced. Cells were seeded on 6-well plates and treated with Preparation Examples 1-4 and Arbutin at 200 μg / ml, respectively, and then cultured for 2 days to recover the cells. The recovered cells were added with 1N NaOH containing 10% DMSO, reacted at 90 ° C. for 1 hour to be sufficiently dissolved in melanin, and then absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 405 nm using an ELISA reader. Inhibition was calculated using Equation 1 below, and the results are shown in Table 1.

(1) Melanin Formation (%) = Treatment Absorbance / Untreated Absorbance × 100

hemp. Skin whitening performance comparison

After dividing 40 healthy adult men and women with blemishes, freckles, and pigmentation into 2 groups (group A and group B) by 20 randomly, the group A is a cosmetic composition according to the above embodiment. As the cosmetic composition according to the comparative example was applied twice a day for 12 weeks, the change in the skin color was measured using chroma chroma (Minolta CR300) color change (△ L) of the results, Table 1 Shown in

Test Items Example Comparative example Brittle ◎ △ Skin penetration
Composition Extraction Amount (µg / mL)
20.1
3.5 Moisturizing property ◎ ○ Blackening prevention performance
[Melanin production (%)]
38.4
71.4 Skin whitening performance
[Change of brightness of skin color (△ L)]
6.8
2.8

As shown in Table 1, the cosmetic composition prepared by the manufacturing method of the Example and the cosmetic composition prepared by the manufacturing method of the Comparative Example, although the same raw material (100% by weight shea butter) was used, the Example is more applied and moisturizing than the Comparative Example Sex, blackening and skin whitening were significantly improved.

This is the manufacturing method of the cosmetic composition comprising the shea butter of the present invention through the melt-filtration-cooling-quick-freezing-thaw-freezing process ultrafine particles of shea butter, so that the active ingredient of the shea butter and This is because the base and dermis were absorbed.

As described above, the manufacturing method of the cosmetic composition comprising the shea butter according to an embodiment of the present invention and the cosmetic composition prepared by the manufacturing method has been proved the effect of the present invention is limited only by the above configuration Instead, various substitutions, modifications, and changes are possible without departing from the spirit of the present invention.

Claims (4)

In the method for producing a cosmetic composition comprising shea butter (Shea Butter),
Melting step (S1) of 100% by weight of butter butter for 2 to 3 hours at a temperature of 60 ~ 70 ℃;
Filtration step (S2) for filtering the melted shea butter using a filter cloth of 6-7 ply;
Cooling step (S3) to cool so that the temperature of the filtered shea butter is 27 ~ 30 ℃;
A first freezing step (S4) of rapidly cooling the cooled shea butter at a temperature of -20 to -23 ° C for 1 to 2 hours;
Thawing the frozen shea butter in an antimicrobial ceramic microwave oven for 5-6 minutes (S5); And
Characterized in that it comprises a secondary freezing step (S6) for freezing the thawed shea butter for 3 to 4 hours at a temperature of -20 ~ -23 ℃
Method for producing a cosmetic composition containing shea butter
The method of claim 1,
The melting step (S1),
In a hot bath, stir every 5 to 10 seconds,
Measure the acidity with litmus paper so that the acidity is PH4 ~ 4.5
Method for producing a cosmetic composition containing shea butter
The method of claim 1,
The shea butter,
Surface adhesion is -5 ~ -49g, Pick up 3.0 ~ 4.0mg, Melting point is characterized in that using a 30 ~ 38 ℃
Method for producing a cosmetic composition containing shea butter
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