KR101072133B1 - Skin whitening composition having synergic whitening effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for inhibiting melanin overproduction and promoting the release of melanin produced in the skin to enhance the whitening effect, more specifically licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract, papain enzyme It relates to a cosmetic composition that enhances the whitening effect.

Licorice, whitening, ginseng, birch, papain, whitening synergistic effect

Description

Skin whitening composition having synergic whitening effect

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for promoting melanin overproduction and promoting the release of melanin produced in the skin to enhance the whitening effect, more specifically, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme, skin whitening It relates to a cosmetic composition for increasing the whitening effect of licorice which is a component.

When the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays, melanin (melanin), which determines the color of a person's skin, is synthesized and released, causing hyperpigmentation such as blemishes, freckles, and lighting, resulting in cosmetic consequences.

The process of synthesizing melanin has a mechanism in which tyrosinase acts as a substrate to form dopaquinone and forms melanin from dopaquinone. Therefore, in order to prevent the skin from becoming black, a method of reducing melanin synthesis by inhibiting any specific process of melanin production is generally studied. Whitening agents thus developed include kojic acid, arbutin, licorice, vitamin A, and vitamin C.                         

However, in addition to determining the skin color, melanin plays an important role such as forming a hat-like structure around the nucleus to protect genes from ultraviolet rays and to remove free radicals to protect intracellular proteins. As a result, there is a problem that excessively inhibiting melanin production itself may not perform the minimum required role in the skin.

Therefore, it is considered that an approach toward brightening skin tone by selectively removing only excessively produced melanin is needed.

Thus, the present inventors studied to improve skin whitening in three aspects in connection with the skin structure to solve the above problems.

As a result, first, papain enzyme is used to enhance detachment of the outermost cells of the stratum corneum of the skin, red ginseng extract is used to promote cell growth, and third, the birch extract is used to soften rough skin. The present invention was completed by maximizing the turnover mechanism of the skin as a whole, thereby increasing the whitening effect on the skin.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method capable of maximizing the whitening efficacy of skin whitening ingredients. Thus, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme as a composition for maximizing the whitening effect of the skin whitening component.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition for whitening containing red ginseng extract, birch extract, and papain enzyme, and containing licorice as the untreated people.

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition for whitening containing licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme.

The composition according to the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that inhibits melanin overproduction and promotes the release of melanin produced in the skin and consequently enhances the whitening effect, and promotes cell detachment, promotes cell production, and skin softening. You can speed up the turnover of your entire skin.

The inventors have found for the first time that the licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme are unexpectedly elevated in their whitening effect when used simultaneously with each other. That is, the components can be mixed with each other to maximize the whitening effect. Thus, the inventors named the whitening composition containing the licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme as "white energy complex".

First, the licorice in the present invention acts as a main component of the whitening activity for inhibiting melanin production. The licorice content is appropriately 0.001 to 2.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. This is because the whitening effect is insignificant at a concentration of less than 0.001% by weight, and skin irritation may be caused at a concentration of more than 2.0% by weight.

Papain enzyme mainly functions to promote cell detachment, and 0.01 to 0.1% by weight is appropriate for the total weight of the composition. This is because the effect is insignificant at a concentration of less than 0.01% by weight, and skin irritation may be caused at a concentration of more than 0.1% by weight.

Red ginseng extract mainly plays a role in promoting cell growth. Preferably 6 year old red ginseng is suitable in terms of price and efficacy. The amount of use is suitably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. It is difficult to expect an effect at the concentration below 0.01 weight%, and the cost burden arises at the concentration exceeding 5.0 weight%.

Birch extract contributes to the softening of the skin. The amount of use is suitably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. At concentrations below 0.01% by weight it is difficult to expect an effect and at concentrations above 5.0% by weight it may cause irritation.

The potency of the ingredients is more effective in synergizing each other by being used in combination with each other in addition to the respective potency described above.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

Until now, the whitening agent developed so far was to reduce the amount of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, a basic and most important enzyme that is indispensable for melanin biosynthesis. The whitening agents thus developed are limited in use due to side effects causing skin irritation, and thus, it is difficult to use a sufficient amount to produce a satisfactory whitening effect. The main whitening component that produces a whitening effect is to use the system to increase the skin turnover activity in order to increase the whitening effect as it is to show a better whitening effect than the conventional whitening agent.

The skin consists of two parts: the shallow epidermis (epidermis) and the deeper layer below the dermis (dermis), and under the dermis there is a separate layer of connective tissue called the subcutaneous tissue (subcutaneous tissue). . The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin, composed of epithelial tissue, consisting of five layers. Specifically, from the bottom side, it is composed of basal layer, spinous layer, granular layer, clear layer and horny layer. As you push up, dead cells that are exfoliated gradually fall off. As such, a cycle in which new cells are made at the skin's epidermal bottom to push old cells out of the skin and fall out of the body is called a turn-over cycle. This will allow them to be discharged out of the body quickly.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to these examples.

Examples 1 and 2 Preparation of Whitening Compositions (White Energy Complexes 1 and 2)

Licorice contains 35% or more of glabridine from Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co. Ltd. (Japan). The product name is Polyol soluble licorice ext P-T (40).

The red ginseng extract was obtained from Kojesa's six-year-old red ginseng extract obtained through enzymatic digestion.

* Enzyme digestion method

10 g of red ginseng extract was dissolved in 100 ml of citrate buffer (pH 5.5), and 1 g of naringinase enzyme isolated in penicillium was added thereto and reacted with stirring for 40 hours in a 40 ° C water bath. After periodic confirmation by thin layer chromatography, when the substrate was completely lost, the reaction was terminated by heating in hot water for 10 minutes, and then the reaction solution was extracted and concentrated three times with the same amount of ether. The obtained product was separated by silica gel column chromatography (chromoform-methanol = 9: 1) to obtain a red ginseng extract (yield 10.5%).

Birch extract was used by purchasing a product (trade name: whitebirch extract) of Arch Personal Care Products (USA).

Papain enzyme was purchased from a product of the Refined papain powder brand manufactured by CPC Wolfgang Muhlbauer GmbH (Germany).

The extracts were mixed with licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme in a ratio of 5: 5: 10: 0.3 to prepare 203 g of a whitening composition (white energy complex) 1 of the present invention. (Example 1)                     

In addition, the licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme were mixed at a ratio of 5: 10: 20: 0.6 to prepare 356 g of White Energy Complex 2. (Example 2)

<Test Example 1> melanin production inhibitory effect measurement

HM3KO cells (Y. Funasaka, Department of dermatology, Kobe university school of medicine, 5-1 Kusunoki-cho 7-chrome, Chuo-ku, Kobe 650, Japan), human melanoma cells, contain 10% fetal bovine serum Incubated in Essential Medium (MEM) at 37 ℃, 5% CO ₂ conditions. The cultured cells were dispensed into 75-well flasks so that the number of cells was 3 × 10 ⁵ per well, and the cells were allowed to stick to the base wall overnight. After confirming that the cells adhere well, the medium was changed to a fresh medium containing 10 ppm of each test substance.

Test substances were used as described in Table 1 below.

As a control, a medium containing only DMSO was used without using a test sample.

For comparison, the licorice extract, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme were tested in combination with the numbers of all cases for use alone and in the case of mixing with each other.

In this way, every two days, the cells were transferred to a new medium containing the sample, and the cells were incubated until the flask was filled. Then, the culture solution was removed, washed with PBS, dissolved with 1N sodium hydroxide, and measured for absorbance at 500 nm. The results of calculating the melanin inhibition rate of the samples for the control group were shown in Table 1 according to the following equation.

Melanin production inhibition rate (%) = {1- (absorbance of each test substance / absorbance of the control group)} × 100

Test substance (concentration) Melanin production inhibition rate (%) Licorice (1 ppm) 23.1 Papain (3 ppm) 0.5 Red Ginseng Extract (5ppm) 1.1 Birch Extract (10ppm) 1.6 Licorice (1 ppm) + Pine (3 ppm) 24.2 Licorice (1ppm) + red ginseng extract (5ppm) 24.8 Licorice (1ppm) + Birch Extract (10ppm) 24.5 Licorice (1ppm) + Papain (3ppm) + Red Ginseng Extract (5ppm) 25.2 Licorice (1ppm) + Red Ginseng Extract (5ppm) + Birch Extract (10ppm) 26.3 Licorice (1ppm) + Papain (3ppm) + Birch Extract (10ppm) 26.9 Example 1
(White Energy Complex 1) 28.8 Example 2
(White Energy Complex 2) 29.7

From the results of Table 1, the melanin production inhibition rate of papain, red ginseng extract, and birch extract itself constituting the white energy complex was low, but the combination of licorice and one by one, the whitening effect was increased, licorice and the above 3 It was confirmed that the whitening effect is higher when using all the components together in parallel.

Test Example 2 Whitening Effect Test on Human Skin

After attaching an opaque tape with 6 holes of 1.5cm diameter to the upper forearm of the subject, 10 to 1.5 times as much ultraviolet light (UVB) as the minimum erythema dose (Minimal Erythema Dose) of each subject was examined. Was irradiated to induce blackening of the skin, the test materials were applied, and after 2 months, the contrast of the skin was measured using a chromameter.

Each test substance was prepared according to the formulation example and comparative formulation according to the following Table 2 and applied twice daily (morning, evening) daily.

<Formulation Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Formulation Examples 1 to 4> Lotion Formulations

The following formulations are in O / W lotion formulations and are in weight percent. Viscosity is the value measured after the day after putting into 30 degreeC thermostat after manufacture, viscosity is 7000-11000cp, pH (10% aqueous solution standard) is 6.5-7.5 formulation.

Manufacturing method

(1) The oily component 1 was heated (70 to 75 ° C) and mixed uniformly.

(2) The aqueous phase component 1 was heated (70 to 75 ° C) to dissolve and mix uniformly.

(3) To (2), while stirring (1) above while keeping the temperature (70 to 75 ℃) to make an emulsion, and continuously add the oil component 2, water component 2 to 28 ~ 30 ℃ Cooled.

division Raw material name Formulation Example 1 Formulation Example 2 Comparative Formulation Example 1 Comparative Formulation Example 2 Comparative Formulation Example 3 Comparative Formulation Example 4 Oily ingredient 1 Stearic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydrogenated Oil 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Chin type glyceryl stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl-3methylglucose distearate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 antiseptic 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Hydrogenated Polydecene 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Meadowfoam seed oil 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sunflower seed oil 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetyloctanoate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Decyl cocoate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cyclomethicone 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water component 1 Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Disodium ID 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Tee 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 antiseptic 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Trehalose 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Hyaluronic acid 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 licorice - - 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Birch Extract - - - 0.1 - - Papain - - - - 0.003 - Red Ginseng Extract - - - - - 0.05 Example 1
(White Energy Complex 1) 0.153 - - - - - Example 2
(White Energy Complex 2) - 0.306 - - - - Water component 2 Carbomer 1% aqueous solution 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 Oily component 2 incense Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity Quantity

The determination of the effect was determined by obtaining a "L" value representing the contrast of the skin (unburned Korean skin color generally shows a value of 50 to 70). When the test substance is applied, the L value is gradually increased, and the comparison between the test substances is expressed as ΔL value (final L value-value before application of the test substance). The larger the ΔL value, the greater the whitening effect. The ΔL values according to the experimental results are summarized in Table 3.

Test substance Whitening effect (ΔL) Formulation Example 1 3.36 Formulation Example 2 3.72 Comparative Formulation Example 1 2.02 Comparative Formulation Example 2 2.21 Comparative Formulation Example 3 2.32 Comparative Formulation Example 4 2.45

Experimental results of Table 3 shows that in Comparative Example 1 using paprika alone, papain, birch extract, and red ginseng extract using Licorice and Licorice extract, respectively. The value of ΔL was higher, indicating that the whitening effect is relatively greater.

And it was confirmed that the greater the amount of the white energy complex has a relatively greater whitening effect.

As described above, using the white energy complex of the whitening composition of the present invention to prepare a cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water emulsion, confirming the whitening enhancement effect was confirmed that the whitening effect is enhanced.

Claims (4)

A whitening cosmetic composition containing licorice, red ginseng extract, birch extract and papain enzyme. The total weight of the cosmetic composition is 0.001 to 2.0% by weight of licorice, 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of papain enzyme, 0.01 to 5.0% by weight of red ginseng extract and 0.01 to 5.0% by weight of birch extract. Cosmetic composition. delete delete