KR100517457B1 - manufacturing process of imitation fur fabric by knitted - Google Patents

manufacturing process of imitation fur fabric by knitted Download PDF

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Publication number
KR100517457B1
KR100517457B1 KR10-2002-0066558A KR20020066558A KR100517457B1 KR 100517457 B1 KR100517457 B1 KR 100517457B1 KR 20020066558 A KR20020066558 A KR 20020066558A KR 100517457 B1 KR100517457 B1 KR 100517457B1
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
pile
leather
knitted
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KR10-2002-0066558A
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Korean (ko)
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KR20040037881A (en
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노귀영
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노귀영
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B35/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, knitting machines, not otherwise provided for
    • D04B35/34—Devices for cutting knitted fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C17/00—Fulling
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/02—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by singeing, teasing, shearing, etching or brushing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0002—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate
    • D06N3/0009—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by the substrate using knitted fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N—WALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/007—Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by mechanical or physical treatments

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

파일사로 무연의 분할형 P/N 분할사를 사용하고 지조직사로는 세미 덜 폴리에스터사를 사용하여 이중편을 편성하여 둘로 나누어 이를 축융하고 파일사를 분할하며 감량시키고 이 원단을 건조하고 원하는 색상으로 염색한 후 쇄모와 전모를 행하는 공정을 거쳐 천연 피혁과 극히 유사한 고부가가치의 의혁 편성물을 얻는 것이다.Lead-free split P / N split yarn is used as a pile yarn and semi-thick polyester yarn is used as a geotextile yarn, and a double piece is knitted and divided into two pieces to be fused and divided into pile yarns, and the fabric is dried and the desired color After dyeing with hair, the process of hair-cutting and hair-shaping is carried out to obtain a high value-added leather complex very similar to natural leather.

Description

의혁 편성물의 제조방법{manufacturing process of imitation fur fabric by knitted}Manufacturing process of imitation fur fabric by knitted}

본 발명은 의혁 편성물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 지조직으로는 폴리에스터 사를 사용하고 파일사로는 분할성 나일론 극세사를 사용하여 이중직으로 편성한 후 커팅하여 원단을 제조하고, 이를 감량가공에 의하여 감량하면서 파일사를 분할하여 부드러운 극세사가 되도록한 후 전모 등의 마무리 가공을 하여 의혁 편성물을 제조하는 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a manufacturing method of the leather knit fabric, more specifically, using a polyester yarn as a paper structure and a split yarn nylon microfiber yarn as a pile yarn, knitted into a double woven fabric and then cut to produce a fabric, and reduced it The present invention relates to a method for producing a leather-knitted knitted fabric by dividing the pile yarn to reduce it by processing to make a soft microfiber, and then finishing the yarn.

종래에도 극세사 또는 초극세사로 되는 직기에 의한 의혁 직물이 다수 제공되고 있었으나, 이들은 직물이기 때문에 신축성이 적고 촉감이 소프트하지 못하기 때문에, 그 용도가 클리어 용, 외의류 등으로만 한정되고 있었으며, 이러한 단점을 해결하기 위한 의혁 편성물을 제조하는 방법으로는 본 발명자에 의해서 개발된 '보풀성 의혁 편성물 제조방법'이 있었으나, 이는 그 제조 공정이 까다롭고, 파일사를 복합 필라멘트 가연사를 사용함으로써 쇄모(브러싱;brushing)를 하여도 가연사의 꼬임(twist)에 의하여 파일이 완전하게 일어서는 정선이 되지 않는 스퍼랠리티(spirality)현상이 발생하여 전모(시어링;shearing) 공정을 진행할 때 일부 파일이 깎이지 않은 채로 남아있는, 즉 전모(시어링)가 확실하게 되지 않아 고부가가치의 의혁 편성물을 얻기가 어려운 단점이 있었다.Conventionally, a large number of weaving leather fabrics by looms made of microfibers or microfibers have been provided. However, since they are fabrics, their elasticity and softness are not soft, and their use has been limited to clearing and outerwear. As a method of manufacturing a leather-knitted fabric for solving the problem, there was a method of manufacturing a fluff-shaped leather-knitted fabric developed by the present inventor, which is difficult in the manufacturing process, and the bristled yarn is brushed by using a composite filament false twisted yarn. Even when brushing occurs, sputtering occurs due to twisting of the twisted yarns so that the pile does not stand up completely, and some files are not shaved when the shearing process is performed. It is difficult to obtain high value-added leather garments that remain, that is, the shearing is not certain. It was dots.

본 발명은 상기와 같은 기술적 단점을 보완하여 스포츠 의류, 내의류, 외의류, 침장류, 자동차 시트커버, 화장용(세안 또는 콤팩트 등), 가운 및 잠옷 등 그 용도가 다양한 고부가가치의 의혁 편성물을 얻기 위하여 연구한 결과 종래 기술에서 사용되는 원사를 약간 개량하여 사용함으로 모든 결점을 해소할 수 있는 방법을 제공하기에 이른 것이다.The present invention is to compensate for the above technical disadvantages to obtain a high value-added leather knitted fabrics of various uses, such as sports clothing, underwear, outerwear, bedclothes, car seat cover, cosmetics (washing or compact, etc.), gowns and pajamas As a result of research, it is possible to provide a method to solve all the shortcomings by using a slight improvement of the yarn used in the prior art.

본 발명은 상기와 같은 목적을 실현하기 위한 것으로, 도2에 도시한 플로차트에 따라 실시예를 겸하여 공정별로 상세히 설명한다.The present invention is to realize the above object, it will be described in detail for each process also serves as an embodiment according to the flowchart shown in FIG.

제1 공정 (원단 편성공정)1st process (fabric knitting process)

도1의 편성 개략도에서 보인바와 같이 파일사(2)를 연결사로하여 이중 편성물(1)을 편성하되, 파일사(2)는 분지가 8∼12개이고 알칼리 이용성(易溶性)의 폴리에스터(P)와 난용성(難溶性)의 나일론(N)으로 된 무연(無撚)의 분할형 P/N 분할사 50∼160d/24f를 사용하고, 지조직사(3)로는 50∼150d/36f인 세미 덜(semi dull) 폴리에스터 가연사로 하고, 파일사(2)와 지조직사(3)의 중량비율이 70∼80 : 30∼20이 되도록 이중 편으로 편성하여 절단선(4)에 따라 두 쪽으로 나누어 의혁 편성물 원단을 얻는다. 특히 P/N 분할사는 가연을 하지 않은 무연의 합사를 사용하는 것이 상기한 종래 기술의 문제점인 스퍼랠리티 현상을 방지하는 데 효과적일 뿐만 아니라, 분할 공정에서 완전한 분할을 함으로 보다 미세하고 부드러운 의혁 원단을 제조할 수 있는 것이다.As shown in the knitting schematic of FIG. 1, the double yarn 1 is knitted using the pile yarn 2 as a connecting yarn, but the pile yarn 2 has 8 to 12 branches and an alkali-soluble polyester (P). ) And 50-160d / 24f of lead-free split P / N split yarn made of poorly soluble nylon (N), and 50-150d / 36f for geotextile yarn (3). Semi-dull polyester false twisted yarn, knitted in double pieces so that the weight ratio of pile yarn (2) and geotextile yarn (3) is 70-80: 30-20, divided into two along the cutting line (4) Obtain a leather knit fabric. In particular, P / N split yarns are not only effective in preventing the sputtering phenomenon, which is a problem of the prior art, but the use of unleaded non-flammable plywood yarns, as well as finer and softer leather fabrics by completely dividing in the splitting process. It can be prepared.

제2 공정 (축융 공정)2nd process (melting process)

제1 공정에서 얻어진 두 쪽의 원단을 120∼130℃ 의 고온 열탕에 약 30분간 함침시켜서 원단의 폭과 길이에 수축을 부여하여 원단의 조직을 치밀하게 한다. 이 때 P/N 분할사로 된 파일사(2)의 간격도 조밀하여지고 그 길이도 수축되며, 원단 폭은 약 20% 정도 수축된다. 120℃ 미만에서는 섬유의 수축을 기대하기 어려우며, 130℃를 초과하면 나일론 섬유의 연화로 인하여 P/N 분할사가 엉켜 붙을 염려가 있으므로 130℃ 이내로 하는 것이 우수한 품질의 의혁 편성물을 얻는데 필요한 것이다.The two fabrics obtained in the first step are impregnated in a hot boiling water at 120 to 130 ° C. for about 30 minutes to impart shrinkage to the width and length of the fabric to densify the fabric structure. At this time, the spacing of the pile yarns 2 made of P / N split yarns becomes dense and the length thereof shrinks, and the fabric width shrinks by about 20%. It is difficult to expect the shrinkage of the fiber below 120 ℃, P / N split yarn is tangled due to the softening of nylon fibers above 130 ℃ is to be within 130 ℃ is necessary to obtain a high quality leather knit fabric.

제3 공정 (분할 및 감량 공정)Third process (dividing and reducing process)

제2 공정을 거쳐 조직이 조밀하여진 원단을 약 25%의 가성소다(NaOH) 용액의 온도를 80∼90℃로 유지하면서 약 30분간 침지시킨다. 이 때 P/N 분할사의 알칼리 이용성의 폴리에스터(P) 성분은 용해되어 제거되므로 파일사는 0.15∼0.20denier 정도의 나일론(N) 극세사로 분할되며, 폴리에스터 성분의 중량만큼 감량된다. 가성소다 용액의 온도가 80℃ 미만이 되어도 분할 및 감량은 가능하지만 온도가 낮으면 제품의 촉감이 딱딱해지는 단점이 있으며, 온도가 90℃보다 높으면 제품이 불규칙적으로 수축되거나 변형이 발생할 염려가 있는 것이다.The fabric dense with the second process is dipped for about 30 minutes while maintaining the temperature of caustic soda (NaOH) solution of about 25% at 80 to 90 ℃. At this time, since the alkali-soluble polyester (P) component of the P / N split yarn is dissolved and removed, the pile yarn is divided into nylon (N) microfibers of about 0.15 to 0.20 denier, and reduced by the weight of the polyester component. Even if the temperature of the caustic soda solution is less than 80 ℃, it is possible to divide and reduce, but if the temperature is low, the product feels hard. If the temperature is higher than 90 ℃, the product may shrink or deform irregularly. .

제4 공정 (건조 및 염색 공정)4th process (drying and dyeing process)

제3공정에서 감량되고 파일이 분할된 원단을 건조로에서 완전 건조시킨 후 통상의 폴리에스터 섬유의 염색법에 따라 필요한 색상으로 염색한다. 이 때에 촉감의 딱딱해짐을 방지하기 위하여 염색공정과 동시에 통상의 유연제 처리를 행하면 보다 부드러운 원단을 얻을 수 있다.In the third step, the fabric, which has been reduced and divided into piles, is completely dried in a drying furnace, and then dyed in a required color according to a conventional polyester fiber dyeing method. At this time, in order to prevent hardening of the touch, a softer fabric can be obtained by carrying out the usual softener treatment simultaneously with the dyeing process.

제5 공정 (쇄모 및 전모 공정)5th process (hair loss and hair loss process)

제4 공정에서 얻어진 부드러운 원단은 파일의 길이가 불균일 할뿐만 아니라, 들어 누워있거나 엉켜진 경우도 있으므로 브러시를 이용하여 더욱 부드럽고 균일하게 일어서도록 쇄모(brushing)하고, 쇄모된 원단은 파일사(2)가 부드럽고 곧게 정선되어 있으나 그 길이가 일정치 않으므로 표면을 보다 균일하게 하기 위하여 전모(剪毛 ; shearing) 공정으로 파일을 일정하게 절단하여 마무리함으로 원하는 의혁 편성물을 얻게 되는 것이다. The soft fabric obtained in the fourth process is not only non-uniform in length, but may also be laid or entangled, so that the soft fabric is brushed to stand more smoothly and uniformly using a brush, and the fibrous fabric is piled (2). Is smooth and straight, but its length is not constant, so that the desired leather knitting is obtained by uniformly cutting and finishing the pile by a shearing process to make the surface more uniform.

본 발명은 파일사를 P/N 분할사를 사용하되 가연을 하지 않은 필라멘트 합사를 사용하고 분할 가공시 80∼90℃의 비교적 고온의 알칼리 수용액에서 처리함으로 파일의 완전한 분할 효과와, 보다 부드럽고, 전모 공정에서도 스퍼랠리티 현상이 발생하지 않으므로 그 표면이 매우 균일하여 잘 가공된 천연 피혁과 극히 유사한 고부가가치의 의혁 편성물을 얻을 수 있는 우수한 발명인 것이다.The present invention is to use the P / N split yarn, but the filament yarn is not flammable and treated in a relatively high temperature aqueous alkali solution of 80 ~ 90 ℃ during splitting process, complete splitting effect of the pile, softer, fuller Since the process does not produce a swelling phenomenon, the surface is very uniform, and it is an excellent invention that can obtain a high value-added leather fabric that is very similar to a well-processed natural leather.

도1은 본 발명 편성물의 편성 개략도1 is a schematic diagram of the knitted fabric of the present invention

도2는 본 발명 실시를 위한 플로차트2 is a flowchart for implementing the present invention.

도3은 본 발명에 이용되는 분할사의 분할 전의 확대단면도3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view before division of a divided yarn used in the present invention;

도4는 본 발명에 이용되는 분할사의 분할 후의 확대단면도4 is an enlarged cross-sectional view after dividing a divided yarn used in the present invention;

-도면의 주요 부분에 대한 부호 설명-Explanation of symbols on the main parts of the drawing

1 : 편성물 2 : 파일사1: knitted material 2: pile yarn

3 : 지조직 사 4 : 절단선3: branch tissue yarn 4: cutting line

P : 폴리에스터 N : 나일론P: Polyester N: Nylon

Claims (2)

파일사로 50∼160d/24f인 알칼리 이용성 폴리에스터와 알칼리 난용성의 나일론으로 되고, 그 분지가 8∼12인 무연의 분할형 P/N 분할사를 사용하고, 지조직사로는 50∼150d/36f인 세미 덜(semi dull) 폴리에스터 가연사를 사용하여 파일사와 지조직사의 중량비가 70∼80 : 30∼20이 되도록 이중 편으로 편성하여 절단하는 원단 편성공정; 편성된 원단을 120∼130℃의 열탕에서 약 30분간 침지하여 수축시키고 조직을 조밀화하는 축융공정; 축융된 원단을 80∼90℃의 온도를 유지하는 가성소다(NaOH) 용액에 침지시켜 파일의 분할 및 원단을 감량시키는 분할 및 감량공정; 분할 감량된 원단을 건조하고 원하는 색상으로 염색하는 건조 및 염색공정; 염색된 원단의 표면 파일을 고르게 세우고 정리하는 쇄모(brushing) 및 전모(shearing)공정을 거치는 것을 특징으로 하는 의혁 편성물의 제조방법.50 to 160 d / 24f of alkali-soluble polyester and alkali poorly soluble nylon are used as pile yarns, and lead-free split P / N split yarns having branches of 8 to 12 are used. Fabric knitting process of using a semi-dull polyester false twisted yarn to knit and cut a double piece so that the weight ratio of the pile yarn and the branch tissue yarn is 70 to 80:30 to 20; A milling process in which the knitted fabric is immersed in a hot water at 120 to 130 ° C. for about 30 minutes to shrink and compact the tissue; A dividing and reducing process of dividing the pile and reducing the fabric by immersing the condensed fabric in a caustic soda (NaOH) solution maintaining a temperature of 80 to 90 ℃; Drying and dyeing process of drying and dividing the reduced weight fabric into desired color; A method for producing a leather-knitted fabric, characterized in that it goes through a brushing and shearing process of evenly arranging and arranging the surface pile of the dyed fabric. 청구항 1에 있어서, 의혁 원단의 부드러움을 더하기 위하여 염색 공정 중에 유연제 처리를 동시에 행하는 것을 특징으로 하는 의혁 편성물의 제조방법.The manufacturing method of the leather-knitted fabric of Claim 1 which performs a softening agent process simultaneously during a dyeing process in order to add the softness of a leather fabric.
KR10-2002-0066558A 2002-10-30 2002-10-30 manufacturing process of imitation fur fabric by knitted KR100517457B1 (en)

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KR200472331Y1 (en) * 2009-07-31 2014-04-21 코오롱글로텍주식회사 CarSeat Fabric having Self-Cushion layer

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KR101326213B1 (en) * 2012-09-21 2013-11-11 주식회사 클렘본 Fabrics with cut loop group, manufacturing method of the fabrics and textile goods using the same
KR101326214B1 (en) * 2012-09-21 2013-11-11 주식회사 클렘본 Fabrics with cut loop group, manufacturing method of the fabrics and textile goods using the same
KR101505502B1 (en) * 2013-06-17 2015-03-24 주식회사 클렘본 Fabrics with cut loop group, manufacturing method of the fabrics and textile goods using the same

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR200472331Y1 (en) * 2009-07-31 2014-04-21 코오롱글로텍주식회사 CarSeat Fabric having Self-Cushion layer

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