JPS6367572B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Technical Field) The present invention relates to a stretchable raised fabric, and more particularly to a raised fabric with a double weave structure that has an elongation rate of 15% or more in the warp direction and has a uniform fabric surface. (Prior Art) Generally, stretchable raised fabrics are often used that have elongation in the weft direction of the fabric. On the other hand, for sports and casual uses such as ski slacks, there is a demand for materials that have elongation in the warp direction in order to provide comfort when worn. However, the crimp properties of the crimped yarns are significantly reduced due to the abnormally high tension applied to the fabric during the raising process, or the tension and load applied during the dyeing and finishing process, resulting in fabric elongation of 15% or more. I couldn't get a rate. If the fabric density is made relatively coarse and the overfeed rate is increased in the finishing process, it may be possible to obtain a longitudinal elongation rate of over 15%, but in this case, the fabric surface will become wrinkled. Moreover, the elongation elastic recovery rate was also poor, and it could not be used as a satisfactory fabric. On the other hand, if elastic yarns such as spandex are used, it is possible to obtain a fabric elongation rate of 15% or more, but since elastic yarns have obvious stretchability, they are difficult to handle during weaving and napping. In addition, various processing defects occur, which significantly impairs the quality of the fabric. (Objective of the Invention) The present invention was made against the background of the above-mentioned circumstances, and its purpose is to improve the drawbacks and problems of conventional textiles, and to improve the longitudinal elongation rate of textiles by 15%. The object of the present invention is to propose a woven fabric having the above-mentioned characteristics, but having an excellent surface with a uniform raised surface and no occurrence of grains or the like. (Structure of the Invention) The woven fabric of the present invention has a warp and weft double weave structure, and one side of the woven fabric is a raised side, and the warp on the non-raised side of the woven fabric is made of stretchable polyester containing polybutylene terephthalate. This is a stretchy raised fabric characterized by having an elongation rate of 15% or more in the warp direction of the fabric because it is composed of elastic yarns. In the woven fabric used in the present invention, the warp and weft, or either one of them, that weave the front side and the back side of the woven fabric is made of different yarns, and the front side weave and the back side weave are connected at appropriate locations. It is woven with a so-called double weave structure, and those in which the front side and back side have different structures or the same structure are effectively used. In the present invention, it is necessary that such a double-woven fabric has a raised surface by being subjected to a raising process on one side (for example, the front side). For the raising process, either needle cloth raising or emery raising, or a combination of both, can be applied. However, with cloth raising, the weft yarns are raised more frequently, so weft double weave, and with emery raising, the warp yarns are more likely to be raised, so warp yarns are used. Preferably, it is woven into a double structure. It is effective to apply the raising process to the gray fabric or to the fabric after scouring and relaxing to develop elasticity in the subsequent process. However, if the raising process is applied after dyeing, It is desirable to carry out heat treatment under steam and humidity without tension to sufficiently develop crimp. Desirably, a napping process is carried out at the gray fabric stage when the fabric has low elongation, and then a sufficient crimp development process is performed through a normal dyeing process, thereby easily obtaining a longitudinal elongation rate of 15% or more. After processing in moist heat conditions such as scouring, relaxing, and processing dyeing, crimp occurs and the fabric has a high elongation and is subjected to abnormally high tension during the raising process, which may cause warp wrinkles and weft raised unevenness.Crimp characteristics/elongation Care must be taken as this can easily damage the rate characteristics. Next, the elastic yarn used for the warp on the non-raised surface of the present invention will be described. As for the elastic yarn, 85 mol% or more of the repeating units are polybutylene terephthalate fibers, or
It is necessary to use a latent crimpable textured yarn made of the composite yarn. For those whose main component is polybutylene terephthalate, 15 mol% of repeating units
There is no problem in using a polymer copolymerized with the third component as long as it does not cause any problems. An example of the crimp process is false twist crimp process. As for the composite form when using composite yarn, a composite of polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate is preferably exemplified, and a side-by-side type composite is preferable, and the composite ratio is:
Effectively used in the range of 3:7 to 7:3. In addition, when a crimped yarn used for the stretchable yarn is false-twisted, the false twist coefficient K
The higher the K value, the higher the elongation rate of the fabric, but the preferred range of K is 1.1.
The range is ≧K≧0.5. In the case of elastic yarns made of fibers containing polybutylene terephthalate as a main component, it is better to use a higher K value, and in the case of composite yarns containing polybutylene terephthalate, it is better to use a lower K value to improve the texture of the fabric. , is desirable in view of the elongation rate. However, the twist coefficient K is T: Number of false twists D: Original yarn denier K: Expressed by twist coefficient during false twisting. In the present invention, the stretchable yarn is used as the warp yarn on the non-raised side, but when the non-raised side is composed of a high-density flat weave, the non-raised side is particularly smooth and has no grains etc. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence of 0.5
It is preferable to perform this while applying a tension of ~20 mg/d to the fabric. An abnormally high tension beyond this level is undesirable because it lowers the elongation rate of the fabric. (Action of the Invention) Although the fabric of the present invention has an elongation rate of 15% or more in the warp direction, its raised surface is elegant without any raised unevenness. The reason for this is that stretchable threads are used for the warp yarns that constitute the non-raised surface of the double weave structure. In particular, when the stretchable yarn is a latent crimped yarn, it can be used during processing such as weaving and raising without exhibiting stretchability, so it has an excellent raised surface. In addition, a fabric having a warp direction elongation with an elongation rate of 15% or more can be obtained. Furthermore, if a crimped yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate as a main component or a polybutylene terephthalate composite yarn or a crimped yarn thereof is used, a fabric with a high elongation rate can be obtained. Due to the unique molecular structure of polybutylene terephthalate, yarns containing polybutylene terephthalate do not become crimped even after repeated tension and relaxation due to the reversible crystal dislocation of α-type and β-type crystals. , the elasticity does not decrease, and even after heat treatment steps such as dyeing, the crystal structure provides excellent elasticity. (In conventional raised fabrics, the quality of the raised side deteriorated as the stretch performance deteriorated.) (Example) As the warp constituting the non-raised side, 100% polybutylene terephthalate, polyester, etc. as shown in Table 1 were used. A side-by-side composite yarn of butylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate (composite weight ratio 3:7) and a false twisted crimped yarn (75De/36fil) made of three types of filament yarns made of 100% polyethylene terephthalate were used, respectively. , polyethylene terephthalate is used as the weft that makes up the raised side.
100% ultra-fine filament yarn (64De/
144fil), the fabric was woven with a weft double weave structure so that the texture on the non-raised side was a plain texture and the texture on the raised side was a 1/3 twill fabric. The fabric was brushed in a gray state, and then dyed according to a conventional process. However, in the scouring and relaxing process, the material is continuously expanded and passed through a continuous scouring machine with six tanks, and the maximum tension is set to 10.
Cylinder drying was performed as mg/dl.

[Table] The elongation elastic properties and raised surface of the obtained fabric were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1. In Table 1, "gray" means that the material is raised without being subjected to heat treatment after weaving. As is clear from Table 1, all the yarns using false twisted crimped polyester yarns containing polybutylene terephthalate for the warp had good elongation elasticity and raised surface quality. Those using crimped yarn had a low elongation rate and poor raised surface quality, making it impossible to obtain a satisfactory result.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. One side of a fabric in which the warp and/or weft are constituted by a double weave structure is a raised surface, and the warp on the non-raised surface of the fabric is made of polybutylene terephthalate. A stretchable raised fabric characterized by having an elongation rate of 15% or more in the warp direction of the fabric by being composed of stretchable polyester yarns containing polyester. 2. Claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is a crimped yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate as a main component.
Fabrics described in section. 3. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable yarn is a crimped polyester composite yarn containing polybutylene terephthalate as one of its constituent components.