JPH01156542A - Shining preventing fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To produce a woven fabric having specific physical properties, in which its surface does not show metallic luster and the exhibition of shininess is prevented, by subjecting a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a specific modified cross section to a drawing false-twist finishing process and then by weaving fabric using the finished yarn as warp (and weft). CONSTITUTION: This woven fabric is produced by the following steps: (1) the high-speed spinning of a polyester at a drawing speed of >=4,500 m/min so as to form a highly oriented unstretched yarn having >=0.075 birefringence Δn, and having 5-12 projections and concaves between the projections in its cross section; (2) subjecting the yarn to draw false-twist texturing so as to make the fineness of a filament forming a textured yarn become 3.5-8.0 deniers and so as to make the average value of concave degrees (d/L) in the cross section become >=0.02; (3) the twill weave of a fabric having 7-15% extensibility and >=85% stretch modulus recovery in the lengthwise direction of the fabric, using the finished yarns as warps (and wefts).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a textile that can prevent shine.

(Prior art) One of the important characteristics of plain dyed and darkly dyed fabrics used for uniforms, school uniforms, etc. is that the fabric surface does not have a metallic luster. . In particular, those using false-twisted yarns made of polyester filaments with a round cross section have a fatal drawback of metallic luster and cannot be used for school uniforms and the like. For this reason, attempts have been made to use filaments having a multi-lobed irregular cross-section having protrusions. As a thread having such a cross-sectional shape, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 51-130
Publication No. 318 states that from 2,500 m/min to 4,000 m/min.
A method for producing a crimped yarn is described in which a highly oriented undrawn yarn is stretched and false-twisted at a rate of 1/2 min.

However, when using fibers with such multi-lobed and irregular cross-sections, the problem of metallic luster is solved, but the newly protruding protrusions are scraped off by abrasion, so when made into clothes, the areas that are particularly prone to abrasion are (For example, elbows, buttocks, etc.) may become shiny. In addition to this problem, crimped yarns such as those described in JP-A-51-130318 have a problem in that the cross section is significantly deformed during false twisting.

(Object of the Invention) The object of the present invention is to improve the drawbacks of such conventional false twisted yarn fabrics, to prevent the surface of the fabric from becoming metallic, and to prevent shine. The goal is to propose the following.

(Structure of the Invention) The present invention uses highly oriented undrawn polyester filament yarn whose birefringence n is Δn≧0.075, the cross section of the filament has 5 to 12 convex portions, and The single filament denier D of the constituent filaments of the false-twisted yarn obtained by subjecting a yarn having an irregular cross-sectional shape with a concave surface between the convex portions to a drawing false-twisting process is 8.0≧D≧3.5. The average value d/L of the concavity ratio of the irregular cross section satisfies d/L≧0.02 is used at least for the warp yarns, and the fabric is woven with a twill structure in which twill lines are formed on the surface. The elongation rate S (%) in the warp direction of the fabric is 15≧S≧7.The elongation elastic recovery rate R (%)
This is an anti-shiny fabric characterized by satisfying R≧85.

The polyester used in the present invention has a birefringence Δn of 0.07.
A highly oriented multifilament undrawn yarn satisfying 5 or more is obtained by ultra-high speed spinning at a take-up speed of 4,500 m/min or more.

Particularly preferably, the take-up speed range is 5,000 m/
The range is from 6.000 m/min to 6.000 m/min. Collection speed is 6.0
If the speed is 00 m/min or more, it may be difficult to perform the stretching false twisting process.

In addition, for calculating the cross section of the filament, 5 to 12
A material having an irregular cross-sectional shape having a convex portion and a concave surface between the convex portions is used.

FIG. 1 shows a sectional view showing an example of the cross section of a polyester filament used in the present invention.

As shown in FIG. 1, it is necessary that the surface between the convex portions 1 and 1° is a concave surface 2. In addition, it is expressed as the ratio of the circumscribed circle connecting the convex portion to the circumscribed circle connecting the concave surface (circumscribed circle diameter/inscribed circle diameter).
For example, it is preferable that the ratio is 1.2 or more in order to maintain the concave shape even after false twisting.

In the present invention, the polyester highly oriented undrawn filament yarn is subjected to a draw false twisting process. Although the degree of the draw ratio varies depending on the spinning conditions and the type of false twisting machine used, conditions are set such that the physical properties of the false twisted yarn are uniform. The standard value is 1.12 to 1.1 at a take-up speed of 4,500 m/min.
4 times, the same speed is 1.06 to 1.0 at 5,000 m/min
It is about 8 times as large.

The false-twisted yarn thus obtained, which can be used in the present invention, has a single thread length of the constituent filaments of the false-twisted yarn of 8.0≧D≧3.5, preferably 6.0. ≧D≧
It is in the range of 3.5.

Roughly speaking, it is important that the cross-sectional shape maintains a concave surface, and the average value d/L of the concavity ratio of the irregular cross-section is d
/L≧0.02, preferably 0
．． It is in the range of 1≧d/L≧0.05.

FIG. 2 is a diagram for explaining the concavity ratio in the present invention. In FIG. The depth is measured as a value (mm) and calculated as d/L.

In the present invention, such a polyester false twisted yarn is used at least for the warp yarns, and is woven into a twill structure in which twill lines are formed on the surface. Specifically, the twill structure is 2/1.2/2.
A twill structure of 3/2°□ is exemplified. In addition, the false twisted yarn may be additionally twisted or
Alternatively, it is possible to apply plied twist (combined yarn twisted yarn), but it is recommended to avoid using highly twisted yarn, and the twist coefficient is 14,000.
Preferably, it does not exceed 0 (more preferably does not exceed 7.000).

Furthermore, it is important that the woven fabric of the present invention has a longitudinal elongation rate S and a tensile elastic recovery rate R in the following ranges: 15≧S≧7 (%) R≧85 (%).

If the elongation rate S is less than 7%, it is impossible to obtain a fabric that is excellent in preventing shine, which is the object of the present invention.

In addition, fabrics with S exceeding 15% are so-called high stretch fabrics, but in such high stretch fabrics, the false twisted yarn used needs to be highly twisted, and such highly twisted yarns are used in the present invention. Some are not only completely unnecessary, but even harmful.

In the present invention, it is necessary to use the above-mentioned false twisted textured yarn at least for the warp, but it goes without saying that it can also be used for the weft.

The elongation rate 5iP3 and elongation elastic recovery rate R in the present invention are measured by the following method.

Elongation rate and tensile elastic recovery rate A piece of cloth of 5 x 30 cm was prepared as a sample, and tested using a tensile test measuring machine under the following conditions: 0 Clamp interval: 20 cm Q Tensile speed: 50%/min O Initial load: 20 g Stretch it to a maximum load of 1.5 kg, and after applying the maximum load of 1.5 kg, tighten the clamp to a
Return to original position at a rate of %/min.

The load-elongation curve obtained at that time is shown in Fig. 3, and in Fig. 3, it is determined by the following: Elongation rate S...08 5-QC Elongation elastic recovery rate R...□X100(χ)B.

(Action of the invention) The woven fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure, so it has good shine prevention properties and does not have a glittering metallic luster (non-glitter property), and the false twisted yarn constituting the woven fabric Since the starting yarn is an undrawn filament yarn, it is possible to obtain a fabric that can be used for dark-dyed school uniforms and uniforms that require good deep color properties.

In the present invention, when taking measures to prevent shine, as a result of investigating shine areas, it was discovered that shine occurs as a result of specific parts being worn and scraped off due to repeated friction,
It has been discovered that the structure of the present invention can be used to prevent such repeated friction in specific parts.

In order to achieve non-glitter properties, it is necessary to use irregular cross-section fibers such as those used in the present invention, but if undrawn yarn is used as the starting yarn when performing false twisting,
There is a problem in that the degree of deformation of the irregular cross section is large. In particular, the yarn described in JP-A-51-130318 has such a degree of deformation that it cannot be used in the present invention. Therefore, in the present invention, n is 8n≧0.075 for birefringence.
The concavity ratio d/L of the irregular cross section of the filament constituting the false twisted yarn is d/L≧0.
This problem was solved by using a material that satisfied 02.

Roughly speaking, in the present invention, in order to prevent wear in specific parts, the elongation rate S and the elastic recovery rate R in the warp direction of the fabric are set within the above ranges. In order to impart such elongation rate S and elastic recovery rate R to the woven fabric, the single yarn denier D of the filaments of the false twisted yarn constituting the woven fabric must be D≧3.
．． 5 or more, and when using drawn yarn as the starting yarn like conventional false twisted yarn,
When D≧3.5, the cross-sectional deformation of the irregular cross section is small and it is effective in non-glitter properties, but since it uses a thick DE, the texture is rough and hard, making it unusable.

In the present invention, the starting yarn is a highly oriented undrawn yarn, which is a false-twisted yarn, so the texture is good despite the use of thick yarn (Young's modulus is This is thought to be because the birefringence Δn is lower than that of yarn), and the birefringence Δn is Δn≧0.0.
75, it is possible to impart excellent elongation properties to the false twisted yarn. On the other hand, there are cases where drawn yarn is used as the starting yarn for false twisted yarn, and where n is Δn<0 due to birefringence.
．． In the case of using undrawn yarn such as 075, the elongation properties of the fabric do not fall within the scope of the present invention. By imparting strong twist to create a spring structure, stretchability was imparted. However, if such a strong twist is applied, the fibers in the fabric are restricted to a large extent, and it is not possible to prevent wear of specific parts due to repeated friction.

(Example) 4. Highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn (100 de /24 fil) which was prevented at a take-up speed of 500 m / min,
The birefringence Δn is Δn = 0.08. A material having the cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. 1 was used and subjected to false twisting under the following conditions.

False twisting processing conditions Rotation speed: 250.00Orpm Number of twists
: 3,300 T/M heater temperature
: 205°C Overfeed ratio knee 12.6% The obtained false twisted textured yarn had a single filament denier of filaments constituting the textured yarn of 3.8 de. This false-twisted yarn was twisted twice and twisted at a twist rate of 180 threads/h, which was then used as the warp, and the resulting polyester multifilament yarn was subjected to normal drawing at a spinning speed of 1.200 m/min. After making it into a drawn yarn, it was subjected to a false twisting process, and then the false-twisted yarn was twisted twice to form a twisted yarn with a twist count of 120 threads/l-1, which was used as a weft yarn to form the twill structure shown in □. The density is 210 lines/3.8cm.

The fabric was woven with a weft density of 116 pieces and 73.8 cm, and the fabric was dyed and finished in the order of relaxing, drying, presetting, dyeing, drying, water repellent finishing, and finishing setting, and was dyed black.

The obtained woven fabric had a subdued glossy surface without metallic luster, and school uniforms were made using the woven fabric and a wear test was conducted for 6 months. The results are shown in Table 1.

For comparison, highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn (225 de /48
f11), which had the same cross-sectional shape as that used in Examples, was used and subjected to false twisting under the following conditions.

False twisting processing conditions Rotation speed: 250,00Orpm Number of twists
22,450 T/H heater temperature:
190° C. Overfeed rate knee 47% The obtained false twisted processed yarn had a single filament denier of filaments constituting the processed yarn of 3.2 de. This false-twisted yarn was additionally twisted at a twist rate of 180 twists/H as the warp yarn, and the same weft yarn as used in the example was used, with a □ twill texture and a warp density of 227 yarns. The fabric was woven at a density of /3.8 cm and a weft density of 115 threads/3.8 cm, and the fabric was dyed in the same manner as in the example. School uniforms similar to those in the examples were made using the obtained fabrics, and a wear test was conducted.

The results are also shown in Table 1.

In addition, as another comparative example, highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn (90 de/2
4fil), and n to birefringence is Δn=0.08. V
The 7fI surface shape shown in FIG. 1 was used, and false twisting was performed under the following conditions.

False twisting processing conditions Rotation speed: 250,00Orpm Number of twists
: 3,250 T/H heater temperature
: 190°C Overfeed rate knee 13.2% The obtained false twisted textured yarn had a single filament denier of 3.3 de of filaments constituting the textured yarn. Two of these false twisted yarns were aligned and twisted into a yarn with a twist count of 180 T/)I, and this was used as the warp yarn, and the same yarn as that used in the example was used as the weft yarn. The fabric was woven with a warp density of 222 threads/3.8 cm and a weft density of 116 threads/3.8 cm, and the fabric was dyed in the same manner as in the example. School uniforms similar to those in the examples were made using the obtained fabrics, and a wear test was conducted. The results are also shown in Table 1.

The fabric appearance (glare) according to the example.

It was found that the shine was better than the comparative example, and that it was particularly effective in preventing shine.

[Brief Description of the Drawings] Figure 1 is a sectional view showing an example of the cross section of the polyester filament used in the present invention, Figure 2 is a diagram illustrating the concavity ratio in stacking books, and Figure 3 is a diagram illustrating the concavity ratio in stacking books. , is a diagram showing a load-extension curve for explaining the elongation characteristic S and the elongation elastic recovery rate R in the present invention. 1.1°...Convex, 2...Concave

Claims (1)

[Claims] A highly oriented undrawn polyester filament yarn having a birefringence Δn of Δn≧0.075, the cross section of the filament having 5 to 12 convex portions, and a concave surface between the convex portions. The single filament denier D of the constituent filaments of the false-twisted yarn obtained by subjecting a yarn having an irregular cross-sectional shape to a drawing false-twisting process satisfies 8.0≧D≧3.5, and the average value of the concavity ratio of the irregular cross-section A fabric whose d/L satisfies d/L≧0.02 is used at least for the warp yarns and is woven into a twill structure with twill lines formed on the surface, and the elongation rate S in the warp direction of the fabric is 1.
5≧S≧7 (%), stretch elastic recovery rate R is R≧85 (%)
A shine-preventing fabric that satisfies the following.