JPS6243703B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for sewing artificial fur, and more specifically, in artificial fur, the fuzz (puff, fluff) on the surface of the fabric is slightly tilted in a certain direction (hereinafter referred to as this). The fluff separates to the left and right around the seams at parts with different coats (referred to as fur) and seams where raw hides are sewn together, such as shoulder seams, sleeve seams, collar center seams, collar base seams, and collar joining seams. The present invention relates to a sewing method that prevents this from occurring. [Prior Art] In conventional sewing of artificial fur, the raw hide (hereinafter referred to as fabric) and each sewing part are generally sewn together using a wrap stitch, which is a type of overlock stitch. Most of the garments are sewn using this rolled stitch. For example, in the case of shoulder seams, sleeve seams, etc. where fabrics with different hair directions are sewn together, the seam allowance width for rolled stitches is narrow at 2 to 3 mm, and the sewing thread tension of the seams is weak. Since seam cracking is likely to occur at the seams of two parts, fabrics with different hair directions are simply joined and sewn together, resulting in hair breakage at the seamed areas. In order to prevent this problem, overlock stitching is sometimes used, but in this case too, the stitching thread at the seam is weak and the seam is loose, resulting in almost two pieces of fabric being joined together, and the occurrence of hair cracking is less than with wrapping stitching. Problems similar to sewing are likely to occur. It is also possible to increase the sewing thread tension during overlock stitching to tighten the seams, but with hairy fabrics such as fur, this can cause the seams to bunch up and the thread to break during sewing. However, this method cannot be called a realistic method due to problems such as a decline in the quality of sewn products and a decline in work efficiency. There is also a method of interlock stitching, but this seam has a wide seam allowance and is prone to misalignment on hairy fabrics such as fur.Also, since the inner seam is double chain stitched, it is difficult to use with fur, especially artificial fur. If the weaving thread is thick and the fabric is hard, as in the case of , skipped seams are likely to occur. In particular, if skipped stitches occur, there is a serious drawback that the seams will fray, and this is also not a realistic method for preventing hair breakage. There is also a method to prevent hair splitting at seams by using only lockstitch, but although this method does have the effect of preventing hair splitting, it also has the same problems as interlock stitching, in that it is prone to misaligned stitches and is extremely difficult to work with narrow seam allowances. Moreover, if the seam allowance width is widened, there is a problem in that the texture hardens due to roughness of the seam allowance, and the seam allowance cannot be split due to fluff. On the other hand, there is a method of brushing the seamed parts where the fuzz has occurred at the stage of the sewn product to raise fuzz and cover the seam area with fuzz, but in this method, the fuzz separates again after being worn and washed and is temporary. It's just an effect. [Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention solves the problems caused by the conventional sewing method described above, and covers the entire seam without causing the fluff to separate left and right around the seam at the seam.
To provide a method for sewing artificial fur that forms seams that look as if they were sewn from a single piece of fabric. [Means for Solving the Problems] The object of the present invention is to sew together raw artificial fur hides or sewn parts having different hair directions, and then sew both sewn parts together by rolling stitching, and then Sewing of artificial fur, characterized in that the part on the seam or on the opposite side of the seam allowance and inside from the seam is sewn using a lock stitch to prevent hand tearing at the seam part. This is accomplished by a method. The present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to the drawings. Figure 2A explains the conventional method of sewing together sewn parts (or fabrics) with different directions of fuzz, where 1 and 1' are sewn parts with different directions of fuzz, and 2 and 2' are sewn parts with different fuzz directions. 3 and 3' are fluff, and 4 is a rolled seam. When sewn together in this way, the seam allowance for rolled stitching is narrow, 2 to 3 mm, and the stitching thread at the seam is weak, causing the seam to open and appear as if two pieces of fabric were butted together.
This can be easily determined from the fact that in the dyeing and finishing process, the so-called anti-seam stitch used to join the fabrics uses a seam that has the same type of stitch as the wrapping stitch. On the other hand, this wrapping stitch is used for natural fur, and the occurrence of hair cracking is relatively low because the base fabric of natural fur is soft and the seam allowance tends to collapse, but with artificial fur, the characteristics of the base fabric are different compared to natural fur. This way of thinking doesn't hold up. When two sewn parts 1 and 1' with different fur textures are butted and sewn together, the fluff naturally separates to the left and right at the seam border, giving the appearance of noticeable hair cracking. become. As mentioned above, there are no perfect solutions for reducing the degree of hair splitting even at seams using conventional methods. FIG. 1A explains the sewing method according to the present invention. First, sewing parts 1 with different directions of fluff,
1' is ground stitched with rolled stitch 4, and then the fluff and embroidered hair 2 are sewn into the rolled stitch 4 from the front side of the fabric.
2', fluff 3, 3' is brushed with a needle or perforator, etc. to smooth the fluff. Next, as shown in FIG.
Centering on the seam allowance, approximately 1mm on the 9th side and 5mm on the bodice 8th side.
mm, preferably 1 mm on the seam allowance 9 side, 3 mm on the bodice 8 side
Press down with lock stitch 5 at about mm. If the lockstitch 5 goes further toward the seam allowance 9 than necessary, it will come off the seam allowance 9, and the lockstitch 5 will not have the effect of pressing the seam allowance 9, causing the two pieces of fabric to butt together as in Figure 2 A. The effect of preventing hair breakage is lost. On the other hand, lockstitch 5 on the bodice 8 side.
If this happens, the fuzz will cause sewing misalignment when pressing the lockstitch 5, and the width of the seam allowance 9 will become wider and the seam allowance 9 will stand up, giving rise to the problem of stiffness and looseness. Therefore, by lock stitching 5, the seams of the sewn parts 1, 1' are completely fixed without causing any seam bulging or butting, and the fluffy stitches 2, 2' , fluff 3, 3' can provide a sewn product having an appearance without hair breakage as if it were a single piece of fabric. To explain in more detail the occurrence and prevention effects of hair cracking at the seamed portions of the conventional method and the method of the present invention, Fig. 2B shows fabrics 1 and 1' sewn together using the conventional rolling stitch, with different hair textures at the seamed portions. opens at the seam and its curvature a is large. Fuzz hair 2,
2' and fluff 3, 3' rise along the tangent to the bending curvature A of the fabric, so they separate left and right at the seam, causing hair cracking. On the other hand, as shown in FIG.
1' is sewn with a lock stitch 5 after the winding stitch 4, so the two pieces of fabric do not open and their curvature b is small. Therefore, the prickly hairs 2, 2' and the fluffs 3, 3' of the fluff stand up almost vertically, and no hair breakage occurs. As shown in Fig. 4, this sewing method that uses both the winding stitch 4 and the lock stitch 5 is used to sew together sewn parts with different directions of fuzz, and also to create shoulder seams 10 where the seams tend to crack and open due to force applied during wear. , sleeve attachment seam 11, collar center seam 12, collar joining seam 1
4. Good to use for collar attachment seam 13, etc. Furthermore, if the sewing method according to the present invention is used for parts where parts with different fluff directions are combined and sewn together depending on the design of the garment, it is possible to obtain clothes without the occurrence of fluff breakage at the sewn parts as described above. In addition, for parts where parts whose furs are in the same direction are to be sewn together, it is sufficient to sew only the seams as in the past. Example 1 A women's half coat was sewn under the conditions shown in Table 1 using polyester fibers and an artificial fur fabric composed of woven wool and cotton wool as a base fabric.

[Front] When sewing women's half coats, depending on where each part is sewn, such as the front body, back body, sleeves, and collar, a combination of winding stitches and lock stitches, and winding stitches alone are used. The different ways to use them are at the seams (stitches) where the direction of the fur separates around the seam area, i.e. shoulder seam, sleeve seam, collar center seam, collar seam, and collar seam between rolled and lock stitches. was used in combination. The sewing method is to first sew each part together using a wrap stitch with a seam allowance of 3mm, then
The prickly hair and fluff sewn into the seams were pulled out with a perforation needle. After tidying up the prickly hair and fluff with a brush, I used a lockstitch to hold the fabric 2mm from the seam of the rolled stitch on the best-looking side. When using the lockstitch with the presser foot, I was able to sew smoothly without any misalignment of the fabric. Other seams, such as side seams, reverse seams, and cuff seams, were sewn using only rolled stitches with a seam allowance of 3 mm. After the sewn product was completed, we examined the appearance of the seamed parts and found that in the parts sewn using the sewing method of the present invention, the fabric was completely pressed down with lockstitching, and there was no hair splitting, making it look like a single piece. It looked like fabric. In addition, in the wrapping stitches used for seaming such as side seams and backstitching, the hairs of the fabrics to be sewn are in the same direction, so no hair splitting was observed. Approximately 30 pieces of women's half coats are made of this sewn product.
After wearing it for a day, I examined its appearance, especially the seamed parts, and found that it was almost as if it had just been sewn, with no defects such as hair splitting. Furthermore, I dry-cleaned the worn item, but there were no problems as after wearing it. Comparative Example 1 Almost all of the seams of a women's half coat were sewn using the same artificial fur fabric as in Example 1 under the conditions shown in Table 3.

[Table] Looking at the appearance of each seam of a women's half coat sewn under these conditions, we can see that the seams where the fur of the parts to be sewn are different, namely shoulder seam, sleeve attachment seam, and center collar seam. , When sewing collars together or attaching collars, the seam of the rolled seam is weak, causing the fabric to mate, causing prickling, hair, etc.
The fluff was separated from side to side, top and bottom, and the hairs were severely cracked, and the sewing threads at the seams were visible on the surface, significantly deteriorating the appearance and lowering the commercial value. Therefore, by brushing the seam part, I was able to correct the hair breakage slightly. However, this sewn product is approximately
After wearing it for 10 days, we examined the appearance, especially the seamed areas, and found that the seams where hair splitting had been corrected by brushing had returned to the state before brushing, where hair splitting had significantly occurred. [Effects of the Invention] The sewing method according to the present invention prevents the fuzz from separating to the left and right around the seam when sewing parts of artificial fur in which the fuzz directions are different, and the fuzz covers the entire seam as if it were a single piece. It looks like it's sewn from fabric. Particularly at seams that are subjected to force while wearing clothes, such as shoulder seams, sleeve seams, collar seams, etc., the seams do not open even when force is applied, and as above, there is no hair cracking at the seams and the appearance is good. can be expected to improve the appearance quality of secondary products. Furthermore, the appearance quality of these sewn parts can be maintained for a long time even after wearing and washing.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

1A and 1B are schematic sectional views illustrating the method of sewing artificial fur according to the present invention, 2A and 2B are schematic sectional views illustrating the conventional method of sewing artificial fur, and 3
The figure is an explanatory diagram showing the structure of a seam formed by the method of the present invention, and FIG. 4 is an external front view of a women's half coat showing an example of the method using the method of the present invention. 1, 1'...sewn parts with different fluff directions,
2, 2'... Stitch hair, 3, 3'... Fluff, 4... Wrap stitch, 5... Lock stitch, 6... Looper thread, 7...
Needle thread, 8... Body side of the fabric, 9... Seam allowance side of the fabric, 10... Shoulder seam, 11... Sleeve attachment seam, 12... Collar center seam, 13... Collar attachment seam, 14... Collar joining seams, a, b... Fabric bending curvature at the seaming portion.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. When sewing together artificial fur hides or sewn parts with different fur directions, after both seams have been ground-stitched using rolled stitching, the seam is on the seam or on the opposite side of the seam allowance, and A method for sewing artificial fur, characterized in that the inner part of the seam is sewn using a lock stitch to prevent hair from splitting at the seam.