US3843972A

US3843972A - Extensible sleeve construction

Info

Publication number: US3843972A
Application number: US00331627A
Authority: US
Inventors: A Weinkle
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1973-02-12
Filing date: 1973-02-12
Publication date: 1974-10-29
Anticipated expiration: 1991-10-29

Abstract

An extensible sleeve construction and method of forming same in which the length of a cuffed sleeve such as conventionally found on shirts or similar garments may be selectively extended, as for use by a growing boy or where style or personal preference dictates a desired sleeve elongation. The novel sleeve and method of forming same utilize a tuck in the sleeve fabric formed to lie against a surface of the cuff adjacent its line of connection to the cuff, with the tuck removably retained 1) by a selectively removable top seam corresponding to the top seam such as conventionally employed on a cuff for decorative finishing reasons and 2) a selectively removable anchoring seam overlying the conventional running seam, whereby the appearance of the cuffed sleeve will be like that of a conventional cuffed sleeve, uneconomical manufacturing costs will not be entailed, and laundering will not effect retention of the tuck or require any special handling.

Description

[Jetted States Patent [1 1 Weinkle [451 Oct. 29, 1974 EXTENSIBLE SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION Abraham Weinkle, 73 Park Ave., Maywood, NJ. 07607 22 Filed: Feb. 12,1973

21 Appl. No.:331,627

[76] Inventor:

[52] 11.8. C1. 2/123 [51] Int. Cl A4lb 7/04 [58] Field of Search 2/123, 124, 125, 126, 269; 112/262 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 399,914 3/1889 Miller 2/269 1,751,832 3/1930 Menzin 2/123 1,921,467 8/1933 Hymes.... 2/269 X 2,158,456 5/1939 Kaplan 2/269 2,177,587 10/1939 Woelfel, Sr. 2/269 FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 202,195 7/1920 Canada 2/123 748,375 5/1956 Great Britain 2/269 232,878 4/1925 Great Britain 2/123 Primary ExaminerWerner H. Schroeder 5 7] ABSTRACT An extensible sleeve construction and method of forming same in which the length of a cuffed sleeve such as conventionally found on shirts or similar garments may be selectively extended, as for use by a growing boy or where style or personal preference dictates a desired sleeve elongation. The novel sleeve and method of forming same utilize a tuck in the sleeve fabric formed to lie against a surface of the cuff adjacent its line of connection to the cuff, with the tuck removably retained 1) by a selectively removable top seam corresponding to the top seam such as conventionally employed on a cuff for decorative finishing reasons and 2) a selectively removable anchoring seam overlying the conventional running seam, whereby the appearance of the cuffed sleeve will be like that of a conventional cuffed sleeve, uneconomical manufacturing costs will not be entailed, and laundering will not effect retention of the tuck or require any special handling.

10 Claims, 3 Drawing Figures BACKGROUND OF INVENTION lectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction and method of forming same providing a sleeve which is constructed by employing conventional sleeve forming techniques,,provides an appearance like that of a conventional cuffed sleeve, is not subject to inadvertant extension during laundering, and does not require any special handling in laundering and preparation for wear.

A variety of attempts have been made over the years to provide a cuffed sleeve construction which lends itself to selective extension of the sleeve length to accommodate growth of the wearer, or changes in style dictates. Such selectively extensible constructions have generally employed a tuck taken in the sleeve fabric, with the tuck detachably anchored to the cuff or sleeve so that upon freeing the tuck anchoring, the sleeve may be extended.

A variety of different techniques have been employed for detachably anchoring the tuck, ranging from buttons and snaps to stitches. These prior art tuck securing or anchoring techniques have presented problems either in manufacture; uneconomically increasing production costs; or have resulted in an undesirable appearance in the sleeve; or have resulted in undesired detachment of the tuck securing means during laundering; or have required extensive manipulation in preparing the garment for wear.

Thus, Price in U.S. Pat. No. 1,315,036; Weiner in U.S. Pat. No. 1,670,644, and Berger in U.S. Pat. No. 2,022,878 have disclosed the use of buttons and button holes as tuck anchoring means to detachably retain a tuck of sleeve fabric adjacent the cuff for selective extension of the cuff. Aside from the increased cost of production resulting from the need to sew the additional buttons and button holes, the appearance of the sleeve becomes noticeably different from that of a conventional sleeve, and laundering becomes a problem increasing the likelihood of lost buttons, and requiring undesired manipulation in ironing and preparing the sleeve for wear.

Stein in U.S. Pat. No. 1,885,570 and Harrison in U.S. Pat. No. 2,299,982 disclose the use of a line of removable stitching to detachably anchor the selectively extensible tuck. However, the appearance of the resulting structure is different than that of a conventional cuff, and the manufacture of the cuff entails a relatively large number of additional sewing steps uneconomically increasing production costs.

SUMMARY OF INVENTION It is with the above problems and considerations in mind that the present improved selectively extensible sleeve construction has been evolved providing for a sleeve having an appearance like that of the conventional cuffed sleeve, utilizing conventional sewing techniques, and providing a sleeve structure readily subject to laundering and requiring no special preparation for wear.

Accordingly, it is among the primary objects of the invention to provide a selectively extensible sleeve construction having the appearance of a conventional cuffed sleeve.

A further object of the invention is to provide a selectively extensible cuffed sleeve subject to being formed v by utilizing conventional sleeve forming techniques and requiring minimal additional fabrication operations so as to enable production of the sleeve economically and rapidly.

Another object of the invention is to provide a selectively extensible cuffed sleeve which is subject to ready laundering without producing inadvertant sleeve extension, and requiring no special handling during ironing or preparation of the garment for wear.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method for producing a selectively extensible cuffed sleeve so that the steps required to produce the sleeve do not uneconomically increase production costs.

These and other objects of the invention which will become hereafter apparent are achieved by forming a cuffed sleeve with a tuck taken in the sleeve fabric adjacent the cuff. The tuck extends peripherally along the length of the cuff and the tuck is arranged to lie along a surface of the cuff, preferably the arm facing inner face of the cuff. A selectively removable tuck anchoring seam is sewn with stitching extending through the cuff and the tuck, with the tuck anchoring seam lying along a line on the cuff where a top seam would normally be formed on a conventional cuff. An additional tuck anchoring seam is then formed by a line of stitches extending along the running seam normally employed for attaching the sleeve to the cuff so that the cuff appearance will be as on a conventional sleeved cuff.

in assembling the cuffed sleeve, the cuffed sleeve is formed in a conventional manner. The cuff is then folded to lie against a surface of the sleeve, the inner cuff face preferably lying over the inner face of the sleeve fabric, and a tuck anchoring top seam is sewn along the desired line of the top seam on the cuff, with the stitches extending through the cuff and sleeve. The sleeve fabric is then drawn out from its position underlying the cuff with a tuck in the sleeve being retained against the cuff by the top seam. Thereafter, a second removable tuck anchoring seam is formed by extending a line of stitching through the cuff and sleeve fabric along the line of the running seam employed for attaching the sleeve to the cuff.

In use, the cuffed sleeve with the tuck hidden on the inner face of the cuff, that is the cuff face closest to the wrist of the wearer, is worn normally. When it is desired to extend the length of the-sleeve, the tuck securing seams are removed, .with the extension of the tuck providing desired sleeve extension.

A feature of the invention resides in the fact that the selectively extensible sleeve has the appearance of a conventional cuffed sleeve.

Another feature of the invention resides in the fact that sewing machine operations producing conventional cuffed sleeves can be employed in conventional fashion to produce the extensible sleeve without employing other than normally employed techniques with a minimal increase in labor or production time.

A further feature of the invention resides in the fact that laundering of a garment having the novel selectively extensible sleeve is performed in conventional fashion, requires no special handling, and does not produce inadvertant sleeve extension.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS The specific details of a preferred embodiment of the invention, the manner and process of using it, and the best mode contemplated for carrying out the invention will be described in full, clear, concise and exact terms, in conjunction with the accompanying illustrative drawings wherein:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the cuffed end of a sleeve, with sleeve components forming a tuck exaggerated and separated to illustrate the structure of the selectively extensible tuck, it being noted that the actual structure has the tuck plies lying flush against each other and the cuff;

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the cuff end of the sleeve shown in position for forming a first tuck anchoring seam in the position of a top seam; and

FIG. 3 is a top plan view of the cuff end of the sleeve shown in position for forming a second tuck anchoring seam along the running seam employed for attaching the sleeve to the cuff.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now more particularly to the drawings, like numerals in the various figures will be employed to designate like parts.

As seen in FIG. 1, the selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction is formed with a sleeve portion 12 formed with a sleeve opening 13 along one edge thereof in conventional fashion. A cuff 14 is attached at the end of the sleeve portion 12 in conventional fashion, with the cuff attached to the sleeve end by a running seam securing the free end of the sleeve portion between the plies of the cuff. As is apparent to those skilled in the art, the illustrated two ply cuffed sleeve is such as is conventionally employed on a shirt, or the like garment.

The cuffs 14 of such garments, after being turned about their running seams are generally formed with a top seam 16 extending at a spaced distance from the free edges of the cuff. The top seams serve the two-fold function of l) maintaining the cuff plies against each other in a nonballooned condition; and 2) providing a desired decorative finish.

The selectively extensible quality of the sleeve is provided by means of tuck 18, as best seen to the left in FIG. 1. Tuck 18 is formed in the sleeve fabric adjacent its line of connection to cuff l4 and is arranged to lie along the inner face of cuff 14.

According to the preferred method of forming the extensible sleeve 10, as best seen in FIGS. 2 and 3, the tuck 18 is formed by arranging cuff 14 to overlie the inner (i.e., closest to the wearer's arm) face of sleeve 12, with the outer face of cuff l4 exposed as shown in FIG. 2. A tuck anchoring top seam 20 is then stitched along a line spaced from the edge of the cuff secured to the sleeve, with the stitches extending through the cuff and underlying sleeve fabric.

Thereafter, the sleeve 12 is drawn out from beneath the cuff 14 to lie smoothly under the cuff portion between the tuck anchoring top seam 20 and the edge of the cuff adjacent the sleeve, as shown in FIG. 3. A second tuck anchoring seam 22 is then stitched so that the line of stitches lies along the running seam employed for attaching the cuff to the sleeve. It is preferred that this anchoring seam 22 lie exactly over the cuff attaching running seam, however, it will be understood that within the range of tolerable manufacturing inaccuracies, this anchoring seam 22 will normally be slightly displaced from the cuff attaching running seam, and may within the scope of the invention be further displaced where a second line of top stitching is deemed desirable.

According to contemporary manufacturing techniques in use in the manufacture of shirts, it has been found desirable to form the selectively removable

tuck anchoring seams

20 and 22 utilizing a two thread chain stitch, stitch type 401, employing a No. 12 needle which does not leave stitch holes upon removal of the tuck anchoring stitches. It will of course be understood that a variety of other stitch types and needles may be employed within the scope of the invention. It is, however, preferred that the tuck anchoring seams be formed with a lower thread of a color different than that of the sleeve fabric to facilitate identification and removal of the tuck anchoring stitches.

OPERATION In use, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, extension of the length of the cuffed sleeve to accommodate growth by the wearer of a garment formed with the sleeve, or to accommodate changing style dictates, is accomplished by removing the lines of stitching forming

tuck anchoring seams

20 and 22. Where a two thread chain stitch such as the 401 is employed, cutting and removing the looper thread of the two thread chain stitch, permits ready withdrawal of the needle thread forming the seams to free the tuck 12 so that the sleeve may be extended. The amount of extension is of course equal to twice the length of the tuck as measured between the cuff end and tuck anchoring seam 20. Where the extensible sleeve construction is employed on boys shirts to accommodate growth, it is contemplated that a tuck securing top seam 20 spaced from one-fourth to one-half inch from the cuff top edge will provide desired decorative appearance by the top seam, and at the same time in providing for from A to 1 inch of sleeve extension will accommodate typical growth of the wearer during the life of the shirt.

As is apparent from a consideration of FIG. 1, the appearance of the cuffed sleeve, will not be changed by the provision of the extensible tuck. Laundering presents no problems in that the tuck anchoring stitching is of a type which is conventionally subject to laundering, and no special ironing, folding or handling techniques are required in employing a garment formed with the extensible sleeve.

The above disclosure has been given by way of illustration and elucidation and not by way of limitation, and it is desired to protect all embodiments of the invention within the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

l. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction comprising: a sleeve; a cuff attached to said sleeve by a cuff attaching running seam; a tuck taken in the sleeve, said tuck lying against a surface of said cuff; a selectively removable tuck anchoring top seam formed by a line of stitching extending through said cuff and said tuck along a line spaced from the edge of said cuff secured to said sleeve; and a selectively removable tuck anchoring running seam lying along the cuff attaching running seam, whereby the tuck will be removably anchored along a surface of said cuff, subject to selective extension to increase the effective length of said sleeve.

2. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction as in claim 1 in which said tuck is arranged to lie against the normally arm facing inner surface of said cuff.

3. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction as in claim 1 in which said tuck anchoring top seam is formed at the fold line of said tuck.

4. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction as in claim 1 in which said tuck anchoring top seam lies along a line from one-fourth to one-half inch from the edge of said cuff secured to said sleeve.

5. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction as in claim 1 in which said tuck anchoring top seam and running seam are formed by a two thread chain stitch.

6. A method for providing selective extension of the sleeve length of a cuffed sleeve in which the cuff is secured to the sleeve by a cuff attaching running seam, said method comprising the steps of: folding the cuff to lie against a surface of the sleeve; stitching a top seam along a line at a spaced distance from the edge of the cuff attached to the sleeve with selectively removable stitches extending through the cuff and the sleeve fabric; folding the sleeve back on itself pivoting about said top seam to form a tuck in said sleeve; and stitching a tuck anchoring running seam along the cuff attaching running seam to form a selectively removable line of stitching along a line between said top seam and said cuff edge, whereby a selectively extensible tuck will be formed in the sleeve lying along a surface of the cuff.

7. A method as in claim 6 in which said step of folding the cuff to lie against the surface of the sleeve is perfomied by arranging the arm facing inner face of the sleeve against the inner face of the cuff.

8. A method as in claim 6 in which a two thread chain stitch is employed for forming the tuck anchoring top seam and running seam.

9. A method as in claim 6 in which said top seam is formed at from one-fourth to one-half inch from the edge of the cuff attached to the sleeve.

10. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve as in claim 1 in which said tuck anchoring running seam and top seam are formed with a bottom thread of a color different than that of the sleeve.

Claims

1. A selectively extensible cuffed sleeve construction comprising: a sleeve; a cuff attached to said sleeve by a cuff attaching running seam; a tuck taken in the sleeve, said tuck lying against a surface of said cuff; a selectively removable tuck anchoring top seam formed by a line of stitching extending through said cuff and said tuck along a line spaced from the edge of said cuff secured to said sleeve; and a selectively removable tuck anchoring running seam lying along the cuff attaching running seam, whereby the tuck will be removably anchored along a surface of said cuff, subject to selective extension to increase the effective length of said sleeve.

7. A method as in claim 6 in which said step of folding the cuff to lie against the surface of the sleeve is performed by arranging the arm facing inner face of the sleeve against the inner face of the cuff.