JPS6120585A - Sewing of artificial leather - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention "Industrial Application Field" The present invention relates to a method for sewing artificial fur, and more specifically, in artificial fur, fuzz (puffs, fluff) on the surface of the fabric is slightly oriented in a certain direction. Sewing is done at parts with different coats that have fallen down (hereinafter referred to as coats) or at seams where raw hides are sewn together, such as shoulder stitches, sleeve stitches, collar center seams, collar ground seams, collar joining seams, etc. The present invention relates to an 81 manufacturing method that prevents the fluff from separating to the left and right.

[Prior Art] In the conventional sewing of artificial fur, the raw skin (referred to as the bottom fabric) and the sewing parts are generally sewn together using a rolling stitch, which is a type of overlock stitch. Most of these rolls are sewn into a sun ring.

Here, fabrics with different hair directions are sewn together.For example, in the case of a shoulder seam, a sleeve seam, etc., the width of the sewing bar is narrow at 2 to 31 IIll, and the stitching thread at the seam is weakly stitched. There is a problem in that fabrics with different hair directions are sewn together with ψ facing each other, and hair splitting occurs at the seam part because the seam part of the two parts is prone to seam crackling.

In order to prevent this problem, overlock stitching is sometimes used, but in this case, the sewing thread at the seam is not tight enough, and the seam is loose, so the two pieces of fabric are almost stuck together, and the occurrence of hair cracking is less than that of rolled stitching, but it is still stitched with rolled stitches. Similar problems are likely to occur.

It is also possible to increase the sewing thread tension during overlock stitching to make the seams more fluffy, but with hairy fabrics such as fur, this can cause puckering of the seams and breakage of the sewing thread during sewing. It is difficult to say that this is a realistic method because of problems such as a decrease in the quality of sewn products and a decrease in work efficiency. There is also a method of interlock stitching, but this seam has a wide seam allowance and is prone to misalignment on hairy fabrics such as fur, and because the inner seam is double-linked, it is difficult to use with fur, especially synthetic fabrics. If the weaving yarn is thick and the fabric is hard, like fur, skipped seams are likely to occur. In particular, if skipped stitches occur, the stitches have the disadvantage of fraying, and this is also not a realistic way to prevent hair from splitting.

There is also a method to prevent hair splitting at seams by using only lock stitches, but although this method does have the effect of preventing hair splitting, it has the same problems as interlock stitching, and it is difficult to work with narrow seam allowances. This is extremely bad, and if the seam allowance width is widened, there are problems in that the texture hardens due to roughness of the seam allowance, and the seam allowance cannot be split due to fluff.

On the other hand, there is a method of brushing the sewn seams where the fuzz has occurred in the sewn product to raise the fuzz and cover the seam area with fuzz. It's just an effect.

[Problems to be solved by the invention] The present invention solves the problems caused by the conventional sewing method,
To provide a method for sewing artificial fur in which the fluff covers the seam metal body without separating the fluff to the left and right around the seam at the seam part, forming a seam that looks as if it was sewn from a single piece of fabric. be.

[Means for Solving the Problems 1] The object of the present invention is to provide a method in which, when sewing together raw artificial fur hides or sewn parts having different fur directions, both sewn parts are sewn together by rolling stitches; C
This is achieved by a method for sewing artificial fur, which is characterized by preventing hair breakage at the seamed portion.

The present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to the drawings.

Figure 2A explains the conventional method of sewing together sewn parts (or fabrics) with different fluff directions, 1.1' is a sewn part with different fluff directions, 2.2'
3.3' is the fluff, and 4 is the rolled seam. When sewn together in this way, the seam allowance for rolled stitching is narrow, 2 to 3 mm, and the seam threads are weak and the stitches open, making it appear as if two pieces of fabric were butted together.

This can be easily determined from the fact that in the dyeing and finishing process, the so-called anti-seam stitch used to join the fabrics uses a seam that has the same type of stitch as the wrapping stitch. On the other hand, this wrapping stitch is used for natural fur, and the occurrence of hair cracking is relatively low because the base fabric of natural fur is soft and the seam allowance tends to collapse, but with artificial fur, the characteristics of the base fabric are different compared to natural fur. This way of thinking doesn't hold up.

When two sewn parts 1.1' with different fur textures are butted and sewn together, the fluff will naturally separate to the left and right at the seam, giving the appearance of noticeable hair cracking. become. As mentioned above, there are no perfect solutions for reducing the degree of hair splitting even at seams using conventional methods.

FIG. 1A explains the sewing method according to the present invention. First, sewing parts 1.1' with different directions of fluff are sewn together by winding 4.
Next, pull out the fluff, stitched fluff 2.2', and fluff 3, 3' sewn into the rolled seam 4 from the front side of the fabric using a needle or perforator, and brush the fluff with a brush, etc. Arrange.

Next, as shown in Figure 3, on the needle thread 7 of the winding stitch 4 or around the needle thread 7, approximately 1 mm on the seam allowance 9 side, 511IIS on the seam allowance 9 side, preferably 1+n+ on the seam allowance 9 side, and on the seam allowance 9 side, the best seam 8
Press lockstitch 5 at the 3n+a+ mark on the side. If the lockstitch 5 goes further to the seam allowance 9 side than necessary, it will deviate from the seam allowance 9, or the lockstitch 5 will not have the effect of pressing the seam allowance 9, causing the two pieces of fabric to stick together as shown in Figure 2A. It will be in a combined state and the effect of preventing hair breakage will disappear.

On the other hand, if the wood feeder 5 goes to the @8 side, sewing misalignment may occur due to the fluff when press-stitching with the lockstitch 5.
The width of the seam allowance 9 becomes wider, and the seam allowance 9 rises up, making the texture stiffer and causing a problem called patchiness.

Therefore, by lockstitching 5, the seams of the sewn parts 1 and 1' are completely fixed without causing seam bulges or butting, and the stitches of the fluff 2.2', fluff 3, 3' can provide a sewn product that has an appearance without cracking as if it were a single piece of fabric.

To explain in more detail the occurrence and prevention effects of hair cracking at the seamed part using the conventional method and the method of the present invention, Fig. 2B shows fabric 1.1' with different hair textures at the seamed part, which was sewn using the conventional rolling stitch. opens at the seam and its curvature A is large. Since the prickly hairs 2°2' and fluffs 3 and 3' stand along the tangent to the bending curvature A of the fabric, they separate to the left and right at one seam, resulting in hair cracking. On the other hand, as shown in FIG.
Since the two pieces of fabric are not opened and the curvature B is small because the two pieces of fabric are held together with the wheel stitch 5 after the wrap stitch 4. Therefore, the prickly hairs 2, 2' and fluffs 3, 3' of the fluff stand up in an almost upright shape, and no hair breakage occurs.

As shown in Figure 4, this sewing method that uses both winding stitch 4 and lock stitch 5 is used to sew together sewn parts with different directions of fuzz, and also to prevent the seams from cracking and opening when force is applied during wear. It is recommended to use the seam 10, the sleeve seam 11, the collar center seam 12, the collar joining seam 14, the collar seam 13, etc. Furthermore, if the sewing method according to the present invention is used for parts where parts with different hair directions are combined and sewn depending on the design of the garment, it is possible to obtain a product without the occurrence of hair breakage at the sewn parts as described above.

In addition, for parts where the hairs are in the same direction to be sewn together, it is sufficient to sew only the seams as before.

[Example 1] A women's half coat was sewn under the conditions shown in Table 1 using polyester IIH and an artificial fur fabric made of woven fabric as a base fabric and made of prickly hair and fluff.

Table 7: 8! Sewing 4'4 Depending on where each part is sewn together, such as the best season, sleeves, collar, etc., it can be used in combination with rolled stitching and lock stitching, or in cases where only rolled stitching is used.

The proper way to use it is to sew the hair in different directions around the seam area. (81st) Section, J or shoulder seam, sleeve attachment was sewn, collar was sewn in the center, collar was sewn, and collar seams were sewn using a combination of rolled and lock stitches. The way to sew it is
First, each part was sewn together using a rolling stitch with a width of 3IllIIl, and then the stitches and fluff that had been sewn into the seams were pulled out using a perforator. After tidying up the prickly hair and fluff with a brush, I used a lockstitch to hold the 2111 best season side from the seam of the rolled stitch. When using this lockstitch with the presser foot, I was able to sew smoothly without any misalignment of the fabric. Other seams, such as the back seams, reverse seams, collar stitches, cuffs, etc., were sewn using only wrap stitches with a sewing width of 3IIIi.

After the sewn product was completed, we examined the appearance of the seamed parts and found that in the parts sewn using the sewing method of the present invention, the fabric was completely pressed down with lockstitching, and there was no hair splitting, making it look like a single piece. It looked like fabric.

Furthermore, in the rolling stitches used for seaming such as side seams and backstitching, the fibers of the fabrics to be sewn are in the same direction, so no hair breakage was observed.

When this sewn product, a women's half coat, was worn for about 30 days and the appearance, especially the seamed parts, was examined, it was almost the same as if it had been sewn directly, and there were no defects such as hair splitting.

Furthermore, I dry-cleaned the worn item, but there were no problems as after wearing it.

[Comparative Example 1] Almost all the seams of a women's half-fit were sewn using the same artificial fur fabric as in Example 1 under the conditions shown in Table 3.

Table 3 Looking at the appearance of each seam part of the women's half coat sewn according to this article f1, there are seam parts where the coats of the parts to be sewn are different, including the shoulders. Sewing, sleeves and sleeves are sewn, collar center seams, collars are sewn together, and GJN with collars are not tightly tightened at the rolled seams, and the fabric is stuck together. In addition, the sewing threads at the seams were visible on the surface, resulting in poor appearance and low commercial value. Then, by brushing the seam area, I was able to correct the hair splitting slightly. However, when this sewn product was worn for about 10 days and the appearance, especially the seamed parts, was examined, it was found that the seams where the hair splitting had been corrected by brushing had returned to the state before brushing, where the hair splitting had significantly occurred.

[Effect of the invention 1] The sewing method according to the present defense prevents the fuzz from separating to the left and right around the seam when sewing parts of artificial fur in which the fuzz directions are different, and the fuzz covers the entire seam as if it were one piece. It looks like it's sewn from one piece of fabric. Especially at seams where force is applied while wearing clothes, such as shoulder seams, numbered sleeve seams, numbered collar seams, etc.
Even when force is applied, the seams do not hear, and the seams, including the above-mentioned regular seams, do not break at all, giving a good appearance and improving the appearance quality of the secondary product. Furthermore, the appearance quality of these sewn parts can be maintained for a long time even after wearing and washing.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figures 1A and B are schematic sectional views illustrating the method of sewing artificial fur according to the present invention, Figures 2A and B are schematic sectional views illustrating the conventional method of sewing artificial fur, and Figure 3 is a schematic sectional view illustrating the sewing method of artificial fur according to the present invention. FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing the structure of a seam formed by the method of the invention. FIG. 4 is a front view of the external appearance of a women's half coat showing an example of the method using the method of the invention. 1.1' Parts made of N with different fluff directions 2.2' Stitching hair 3.3' Fluff 4 Wrap stitch 5 Lock stitch 6 Louver thread 7 Needle thread 8 Body side of fabric 9 Sewing down of fabric 10 Layer joining stitch 11 With sleeves [Pull seam 12 Collar center seam 13 Collar attachment seam 14 Collar joining seam Δ, F3 11 Fabric bending curvature at the joining part Patent applicant Toshi Co., Ltd. Ne1 Figure A Calculation 3 Figure

Claims (1)

[Claims] When sewing together artificial fur hides or sewn parts with different hair directions, after both seams are ground-stitched using rolled stitching, the seam is on the seam or on the opposite side of the seam allowance, and the above-mentioned A method for sewing artificial fur, characterized in that the inner part of the seam is sewn using a lock stitch to prevent hair from splitting at the seam.