JPS5922791A - Preparation of suede like fabric - Google Patents

Preparation of suede like fabric

Info

Publication number
JPS5922791A
JPS5922791A JP57133192A JP13319282A JPS5922791A JP S5922791 A JPS5922791 A JP S5922791A JP 57133192 A JP57133192 A JP 57133192A JP 13319282 A JP13319282 A JP 13319282A JP S5922791 A JPS5922791 A JP S5922791A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
fabric
dyeing
suede
raised
transfer printing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP57133192A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0149636B2 (en
Inventor
Kunio Amamiya
雨宮 邦夫
Mikihiko Tanaka
幹彦 田中
Hideki Matsuzaka
松阪 英幾
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unitika Ltd
Original Assignee
Unitika Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unitika Ltd filed Critical Unitika Ltd
Priority to JP57133192A priority Critical patent/JPS5922791A/en
Publication of JPS5922791A publication Critical patent/JPS5922791A/en
Publication of JPH0149636B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0149636B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/003Transfer printing
    • D06P5/004Transfer printing using subliming dyes

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Thermal Transfer Or Thermal Recording In General (AREA)
  • Printing Methods (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE:To prepare a suede texture fabric similar to natural suede in appearance and feeling, by a method wherein a fabric mainly containing a superfine polyester fiber is subjected to ground dyeing and the surface of said ground dyeing fabric is raised while the raised fabric is subsequently subjected to sublimation transfer printing in a plain dyeing fashion. CONSTITUTION:A fabric mainly containing a polyester fiber with monofilament fineness of 1 denier or less at the surface thereof is passed through, for example, a first process performing geound dyeing due to a batch dyeing method, a second process for raising the surface of the dyed fabric subjected to said ground dyeing, for example, by a card clothing raising method and a third process subjecting the raised surface of said raised fabric to sublimation transfer printing for 30-60sec in a plain dyeing fashion, for example, under such a condition that a temp. is about 180-210 deg.C and pressure is about 200g/cm<2> to prepare an objective suede texture fabric.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 本発明は極細繊維を使用して、外観や感触をより天然の
スェード調に近づけた布帛の製造方法に関するものであ
る。
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric that uses ultrafine fibers and has an appearance and feel more similar to natural suede.

従来、スェード調布帛の製造方法としては、極細繊維を
用いて織物2編物、不織布等の布帛とし。
Conventionally, suede-like fabrics have been produced using ultrafine fibers to produce fabrics such as two-knit woven fabrics and non-woven fabrics.

無tlk染色したあと起毛するか、または起毛したあと
無地染色する方法が一般に行われているが、外観はスェ
ード調であっても暖感を有し、天然スェードのごとく外
観が冷感を有しつつスェード調でなおかつ感触も天然ス
ェード調に近いというものはなかった。
Generally, the method is to dye without TLK and then brush it, or to dye it plain after brushing, but the appearance is warm even if it is suede-like, and the appearance is cool like natural suede. There was nothing that looked like natural suede and had a feel that was close to that of natural suede.

本発明はかかる現状に鑑みて行われたもので。The present invention was made in view of the current situation.

極細繊維を使用して、外観や感触をより天然のスェード
調に近づけた布帛の製造方法を提供することを目的とす
るものである。
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a fabric using ultrafine fibers that has an appearance and feel more similar to natural suede.

かかる目的を達成するために本発明は次の構成を有する
ものである。
In order to achieve this object, the present invention has the following configuration.

すなわち1本発明は単糸繊度1デニール以下のポリエス
テル繊維を布帛の表面に主として含む布帛を地染する第
1工程、該布帛の表面を起毛する第2工程、該布帛の起
毛面を無地調に昇華転写捺染する第3工程からなること
を特徴とするスェード調布帛の製造方法である。
That is, 1 the present invention includes a first step of background dyeing a fabric whose surface mainly contains polyester fibers with a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less, a second step of raising the surface of the fabric, and a second step of making the raised surface of the fabric plain. This is a method for producing a suede-like fabric, characterized by comprising a third step of sublimation transfer printing.

以下9本発明について詳細に説明する。 〜本発明では
まず最功に単糸繊度」デニール以下のポリエステル繊維
を布帛の表面に主として含む布帛を地染めする。本発明
でいう布帛とは織物。
Below, nine aspects of the present invention will be explained in detail. - In the present invention, first, a fabric whose surface mainly contains polyester fibers having a single yarn fineness of 100 denier or less is ground-dyed. The fabric referred to in the present invention is a woven fabric.

編物、不織布などを意味する。特に本発明でポリエステ
ル繊維を使用するのは、他の合成繊維にない寸法安定性
に優れているからであり、まだ布帛の表面に主として含
むポリエステル繊維の単糸繊度を1デニール以下とする
のは、スェード調トした時Ω起毛表面の立毛の感触を天
然スェード調に近づけるためである。さらに本発明の後
工程で行う高温の昇華転写捺染に適合する繊維としては
ポリエステル繊維を含んだ布帛であることが望ましいの
である。
Refers to knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, etc. In particular, polyester fiber is used in the present invention because it has excellent dimensional stability that other synthetic fibers do not have, and it is important to keep the single fiber fineness of the polyester fiber mainly contained on the surface of the fabric to be 1 denier or less. This is to make the feel of the raised naps on the Ω-raised surface similar to that of natural suede. Furthermore, as a fiber suitable for high-temperature sublimation transfer printing performed in the post-process of the present invention, a fabric containing polyester fiber is desirable.

布帛を地染する方法は、液流染色機、ウィンス染色機、
ジッガー染色機などKよるバッチ染色法や、ザーモゾル
法、高温高圧蒸熱法、高温蒸熱法などの連続染色法のい
ずれの方法で行ってもよく。
Methods for background dyeing fabric include jet dyeing machine, wince dyeing machine,
The dyeing may be carried out by any of a batch dyeing method using K such as a Jigger dyeing machine, a continuous dyeing method such as a thermosol method, a high temperature high pressure steaming method, and a high temperature steaming method.

染色前に必要に応じてリラックス、111練、セットな
どを行ってもよい。地染の濃度としては淡中色系程度と
しておくのが良く、極濃色である黒やダークブルー等は
避けた方が、後工程で行う無地調の昇華転写捺染の表面
効果がうまく出やすい。なお、染色後に皺除去のために
ヒートセットを行うのは良いが、起毛性に影響が出やす
いのでヒートセットを行う場合にはで、きるだけ低温で
行うのが望ましい。上記布帛を地染する工程を第1工程
とする。
Before dyeing, relaxing, 111 training, setting, etc. may be performed as necessary. It is best to keep the density of the ground dyeing to a light to medium tone, and avoid extremely dark colors such as black and dark blue, as this will help produce a better surface effect in the plain tone sublimation transfer printing performed in the subsequent process. . Note that it is good to perform heat setting to remove wrinkles after dyeing, but since this tends to affect the napping properties, it is desirable to perform heat setting at as low a temperature as possible. The step of background dyeing the fabric is the first step.

次に第2工程として、地染染色された布帛の表面を起毛
する。起毛方法は針布起毛、エメリー起毛、ブラシ起毛
のいずれかか又は組合せで行えばよく、必要に応じて剪
毛やヒートセットを行うのは何等さしつかえなく、又起
毛前に行う起毛剤処理もさしつかえない。起毛は1デニ
ール以下の極aI繊維を使用しているので9弱い起毛条
件で起毛回数を多くするのが良い。起毛回数を多くする
方が、起毛された極細繊維の毛羽の脱落も少なく。
Next, as a second step, the surface of the ground-dyed fabric is raised. The raising method may be one or a combination of needle cloth raising, emery raising, brush raising, and if necessary, shearing or heat setting may be performed, and treatment with a raising agent before raising the hair is also permissible. . Since polar aI fibers of 1 denier or less are used for raising, it is better to increase the number of times of raising under 9 weak raising conditions. The more times the hair is brushed, the less fluff will fall off from the brushed microfibers.

起毛毛羽の密度も上げやすく、さらにスェード調の短い
毛羽とじやすいのである。
It is easy to increase the density of the brushed fluff, and it is also easy to create suede-like short fluff.

本発明で使用する布帛は上記の起毛効果を良くするため
と、スェード調の感触を良くするために極細繊維が布帛
の表面にあり、起毛加工時に起毛針が掛かり−やすい布
帛の構造であることが望′ましい。例えば織物であるな
らば極細繊維を緯糸K IrJい、3枚とか5枚の緯朱
子織物とするのが最も好ましいのである。
The fabric used in the present invention has ultrafine fibers on the surface of the fabric in order to improve the above-mentioned napping effect and to improve the suede-like feel, and the fabric has a structure that makes it easy for the napping needle to catch during the napping process. is desirable. For example, in the case of a woven fabric, it is most preferable to use a weft satin fabric with 3 or 5 layers of ultrafine fibers having K IrJ wefts.

上記地染染色布の表面を起毛する工程を本発明方法にお
ける第2工程とする。
The step of raising the surface of the ground dyed cloth is the second step in the method of the present invention.

続いて9本発明では第3工程として起毛された布帛の起
毛面をほとんど無地調に昇華転写捺染する。第3工程で
無地調に昇華転写捺染するのは。
Subsequently, in the third step of the present invention, the raised surface of the raised fabric is subjected to sublimation transfer printing in an almost plain tone. The third step is sublimation transfer printing into a plain color.

スェード調の表面に天然スェードの如く冷感を得ること
と昇華転写捺染時の高温と圧力を利用して。
By creating a suede-like surface with a cooling sensation similar to that of natural suede, and by utilizing the high temperature and pressure during sublimation transfer printing.

布帛の厚みを薄く11重1:感を増してより天然スェー
ドに近づけるだめなのである。ここでいう無地調とは牛
皮等の表皮のごとく皺を有している部分が着色されてい
ないで、皺部分以外は着色されている程度の無地調を言
うのであり、また着色されている部分に濃淡があっても
同等本発明方法に差し支えなく、逆に天然スェードに近
づけるためにはむしろ好ましいことである。まだ、無地
調の色相の濃度については、地染色相と同程度か、同程
度以上の濃度である方が好ましい。さらに高級感の色調
を出すには地染色相と無地調の昇華転写捺染の色相を例
えば、クリームとベージュ、べ一ジェとブラウン、ブラ
ウンと夕“−クブラウン、ブルーとグリーン、ライトグ
レーとダークグレー。
The reason for this is to reduce the thickness of the fabric (11 layers) to increase the feel and make it more similar to natural suede. The plain tone here refers to the plain tone in which the wrinkled parts, such as the epidermis of cowhide, are not colored, and the areas other than the wrinkled parts are colored, and the colored parts. There is no problem with the method of the present invention even if there is a light or dark shade, but on the contrary, it is preferable in order to get closer to natural suede. However, it is preferable that the density of the hue of the solid color tone is the same as or more than the density of the background dyeing phase. To create a more luxurious tone, the hues of the sublimation transfer printing of the ground dyeing phase and solid color tone can be changed, for example, cream and beige, beige and brown, brown and dark brown, blue and green, light gray and dark gray.

ピンクとレッド等の組合せの如く同一色相の組合せを選
ぶと落ちついだ色調となる。しかし、同一色相以外の組
合せでも例えばレッドとブラック等のようにファツショ
ン性の高いものとしておもしろい場合もある。使用する
染料としては、実用上の衣料の取り扱いからみて耐久性
のある分散染料が最も適している。また転写捺染の条件
は一般に行われている転写捺染の条件でよく9例えば温
度180〜210℃程度9時間30〜60秒間、押え圧
200 g/lri前後でよい。使用する転写捺染機械
としては加熱シリンダ一方式による連続方法が適してい
る。
Choosing a combination of the same hue, such as a combination of pink and red, will result in a calm tone. However, there are cases in which combinations other than the same hue, such as red and black, are interesting and highly fashionable. As the dye to be used, a durable disperse dye is most suitable from the viewpoint of practical handling of clothing. The conditions for transfer printing may be those commonly used for transfer printing, such as a temperature of about 180 to 210 DEG C. for 9 hours and 30 to 60 seconds, and a pressing pressure of about 200 g/lri. As the transfer printing machine to be used, a continuous method using one type of heating cylinder is suitable.

特に第3工程で昇華転写捺染方式を行う他の理由は、第
2工程の起毛で布帛にゆるみが出て、しかも嵩高のある
風合となっているので天然スェードの外観の冷感効果を
得るだめに高熱で押えて厚みを薄く12重量感を増加せ
しめてより天然スェードに近づけるのに必要だからであ
る。このように゛第3工程は外観と感触を同時に天然ス
ェードに近づけるだめの工程なのである。
Another reason for using the sublimation transfer printing method, especially in the third step, is that the second step of napping loosens the fabric and gives it a bulky texture, giving it the cooling effect of a natural suede appearance. This is because it is necessary to press it with high heat to reduce the thickness and increase the weight, making it more similar to natural suede. In this way, the third step is the one that brings the appearance and feel closer to natural suede at the same time.

以上、単糸繊度1デニール以下のポリエステル繊維を含
む布帛を地染する第1工程、該地染染色布帛の表面を起
毛する第2工程、該起毛布帛の起毛面をほとんど無地調
に昇華転写捺染する第3工程とからなることを特徴とす
るスェード調布帛の製造方法なのである。
The above describes the first step of background dyeing a fabric containing polyester fibers with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less, the second step of raising the surface of the dyed fabric, and the sublimation transfer printing of the raised surface of the raised fabric to almost a plain color tone. This method of manufacturing suede-like fabric is characterized by comprising a third step of:

なお、第1工程と第2工程の間に地染オーバープリント
などの染法で例えば豹柄、寅柄、蛇柄。
In addition, between the first and second steps, dyeing methods such as background dye overprinting can be used to create leopard, tiger, and snake patterns.

わに柄等をおくとスェード調と組合せた新規なファツシ
ョン性の高い外観を得ることもできる。
By adding a pattern such as a crocodile pattern, you can create a new fashionable look by combining it with a suede look.

まだ、第2工程と第3工程の間に水に不溶性の仕上用樹
脂で例えばウレタン系、シリコン系、フッ素系などの樹
脂を付与して風合調整を行ってもよい。
However, between the second and third steps, a water-insoluble finishing resin such as urethane-based, silicone-based, or fluorine-based resin may be applied to adjust the texture.

さらに、第3工程のあとで染色堅牢度の向」二。Furthermore, after the third step, the color fastness is improved.

風合の柔軟化1寸法安定性の向上、スェード調表面の毛
羽のナチュラル化の目的で液流染色機等を用いて洗浄と
もみ効果を与えたり、布帛の仕上に用いる柔軟仕上剤、
帯電防止剤、撥水剤などを付与する仕上加工を行っても
よい。
Softening the texture 1. Softening agents used to improve the dimensional stability and naturalize the fuzz on the suede-like surface by giving a washing and kneading effect using a liquid jet dyeing machine, etc., and for finishing the fabric.
A finishing treatment may be performed to add an antistatic agent, water repellent, etc.

次に実施例によって本発明方法の説明を行うが。Next, the method of the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples.

本発明方法はこれに限定されるもので1.々い。The method of the present invention is limited to 1. Many.

実施例1 経糸としてポリエステル75デニール36フイラメント
の仮撚加工糸を用い、緯糸としてポリエステル55デニ
ール300フイラメントの極細仮撚加工糸の双子(20
0回/mの撚数)を用い、緯5枚の二重朱子織物(経糸
密uztio木/吋、緯糸密度164本/吋)を織成し
た。次に通常のりラックス、精練後これを高圧液流染色
機を用い下記染色条件1および還元洗浄条件1に基づい
て第1工程の地染を行った。
Example 1 A false twisted yarn of 75 denier 36 filaments of polyester was used as the warp, and a twin (20
A 5-ply double satin fabric (warp density: 164 twists/m) was woven using a weft of 5 wefts (warp density: 164 twists/m). Next, after scouring the regular Nori Lux, it was subjected to the first step of ground dyeing using a high-pressure jet dyeing machine based on the following dyeing conditions 1 and reduction washing conditions 1.

染色条件I ダイヤニックスイエローU−8E     1.80%
 owfレッド U−8E     1.15   #
ブルー  U −S F     0.55    #
(以上三菱化成社製分散染料) 二ノカサンソルトLM−70,51/l(日華化学社製
均染剤) 蟻   酸                   0
.1 ccμ温匣 135℃ 時間 30分間 還元洗浄条件1 ビスノールP−6531/l (一方社製還元洗浄剤) サンモールPL            O,511/
l(日華化学社製非イオン界面活性剤) 温度 80’C 時間 20分間 染色後、拡布しながら脱水乾燥し、被除去のため170
℃で50秒間のヒートセットを行った。この第1工程を
終了した織物は中色の茶色系に地染されたものであった
Dyeing conditions I Dianix Yellow U-8E 1.80%
owf Red U-8E 1.15 #
Blue U-SF 0.55 #
(Disperse dye manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.) Ninoka Sun Salt LM-70,51/l (Leveling dye manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd.) Formic acid 0
.. 1 ccμ warm box 135°C Time 30 minutes Reduction cleaning conditions 1 Bisnor P-6531/l (Reducing cleaning agent made by Hitachi Co., Ltd.) Sunmol PL O,511/
l (Non-ionic surfactant manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd.) Temperature: 80'C Time: After dyeing for 20 minutes, dehydrate and dry while spreading the cloth.
Heat setting was performed at ℃ for 50 seconds. The fabric that completed this first step was ground-dyed in a medium brown color.

次にベルト式の針布起毛機を用い表面を9回と裏面を軽
く3回起毛した。起毛後190℃で30秒間仕上布(1
30crn)にヒートセットした。起毛前のrIJは1
57 crn、起毛直後の巾は124釧、セット後のI
llは130αであり、厚みは約1wRで目付は190
1/cr/Iであった。以上の第2工程を終了した起毛
織物は、外観はスェード調に近いが暖感を有し、感触は
嵩高い厚みを廟1〜ていてふわふわと1−だ風合であり
2本発明の目的とするスェード調からはまだ離れたもの
であった。
Next, the front surface was lightly raised 9 times and the back surface was lightly raised 3 times using a belt-type cloth raising machine. Finished cloth (1
30 crn). rIJ before brushing is 1
57 crn, width immediately after brushing is 124 pieces, I after setting
ll is 130α, the thickness is about 1wR, and the basis weight is 190
It was 1/cr/I. The raised fabric that has undergone the second step has an appearance similar to that of suede, but has a warm feeling, and has a bulky, thick texture and a fluffy texture.2.Objects of the present invention. It was still a long way from the suede style that was intended.

引き続き、牛皮調柄を分散染料で濃色の茶色で全面に無
地調近く印刷した150 cn+巾の転写紙を用い、連
続式の加熱シリンダーを用いた連続転写機で、該地染起
毛布帛の表面に下記条件で昇華転写捺染を行った。
Next, using a 150cm+ width transfer paper with a cowhide-like pattern printed with a disperse dye in deep brown and almost plain, the surface of the dyed and raised fabric was transferred using a continuous transfer machine using a continuous heating cylinder. Sublimation transfer printing was performed under the following conditions.

昇華転写捺染の機械条件 温  度   210℃ 時  間   40秒間 抑  圧   約2001/ca この第3工程を終了した起毛織物の表面の外観は、無地
調の牛皮調柄を有し、濃色の茶色であるが、皺の部分は
地染の中色の茶色が認められるものであった。また1表
面は高温で加圧されただめフラットの状態に近いが、無
地調の牛皮調柄を有しているためと起毛毛羽が押えられ
た状聾から夕)観は天然のスェードに見られる冷感を有
するものであり、厚さも0.6 mmで第3工程の前後
で40%も書くなっていることから、感触も重厚なもの
であり、′:支だ表面に短い極X111繊維があること
がら天然スェードに近似したスェードrA禮物であった
。さらに裏面の地色と軽い起毛はより一層の高級感と良
好な風合を有するものであった。
Mechanical conditions for sublimation transfer printing Temperature: 210°C Time: 40 seconds Pressure: approx. 2001/ca The surface appearance of the raised fabric that has completed this third step is a dark brown color with a plain cowhide-like pattern. However, the wrinkled area was a medium brown color of the ground dye. In addition, the surface is almost flat due to being pressurized at high temperatures, but because it has a plain cowhide-like pattern, the raised fluff is pressed down and the appearance is similar to that of natural suede. It has a cooling sensation, and the thickness is 0.6 mm, and the thickness is 40% before and after the third step, so it has a solid feel. It was a suede rA product that resembled natural suede in some respects. Furthermore, the ground color and light brushing on the back side gave it an even more luxurious feel and good texture.

特許出願人  ユニチカ株式会社Patent applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] (1)  単糸繊度1デニール以下のポリエステル繊維
を布帛の表面に主として含む布帛を地染する第1工程、
該布帛の表面を起毛する第2工程。 該布帛の起毛面を無地調に昇華転写捺染する第3工程か
らなることを719徴とするスェード調布帛の製造方法
(1) A first step of background dyeing a fabric that mainly contains polyester fibers with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or less on the surface of the fabric,
A second step of raising the surface of the fabric. 719. A method for producing a suede-like fabric, comprising a third step of sublimation transfer printing on the raised surface of the fabric in a plain color tone.
JP57133192A 1982-07-29 1982-07-29 Preparation of suede like fabric Granted JPS5922791A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP57133192A JPS5922791A (en) 1982-07-29 1982-07-29 Preparation of suede like fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP57133192A JPS5922791A (en) 1982-07-29 1982-07-29 Preparation of suede like fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS5922791A true JPS5922791A (en) 1984-02-06
JPH0149636B2 JPH0149636B2 (en) 1989-10-25

Family

ID=15098853

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP57133192A Granted JPS5922791A (en) 1982-07-29 1982-07-29 Preparation of suede like fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS5922791A (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH04126837A (en) * 1990-09-14 1992-04-27 Kanebo Ltd Both-side suede-like woven fabric

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH04126837A (en) * 1990-09-14 1992-04-27 Kanebo Ltd Both-side suede-like woven fabric

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH0149636B2 (en) 1989-10-25

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