JPH04126837A - Both-side suede-like woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the title woven fabric for outdoor clothing, cut and raised in both sides, having pile with uniform length, forming into high density, having high raising effect and tensile strength capable of enduring to practice and retaining handle of extremely fine fiber. CONSTITUTION:The aimed woven fabric being thin woven fabric constituted of a structure in which three layers consisting of outside and inside layers composed essentially of weft of extremely fine fiber having <=0.5 denier single fiber fineness and intermediate layer composed essentially of warp having >=1 denier single fiber fineness are integrated and having <=160g/m<2> weight, having cut and raised pile with 200-400mum uniform length on the both faces and further formed into high density of 2500-3000 cover factor.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] (Industrial application field) The present invention relates to a double-sided raised fabric using ultrafine fibers.

(Prior Art) Fabrics made from ultrafine fibers have a soft texture and are used in high-end clothing, etc. In particular, fabrics made of these fabrics have a suede-like texture and are used in a wide range of fields. However, it is difficult to raise fabrics using filament yarns, for example, when plain woven fabrics are raised using the usual method, only one of the warp or weft threads is raised, and the density of the pile does not increase, making it difficult to obtain a sufficient raising effect. . (See Figure 6) For this reason, there is a method of increasing the number of weft floats using a satin weave or the like and raising the weft, as described in JP-A No. 1-104856. However, if such a weft is cut and raised, The tear strength of the fabric is significantly reduced, and if a large fineness yarn is used to prevent this, the fabric will have a heavy basis weight, resulting in a fabric that has poor drapability and is easy to remove from the pile. On the other hand, JP-A-60-
Japanese Patent No. 75635 discloses a fabric having a multilayer structure including an ultrafine fiber layer and a normal fiber layer.

(Problem to be solved by the invention) However, in further pursuit of the fullness and napping effect,
When both sides of the fabric described in JP-A-60-75635 are raised, the strength of the fabric decreases significantly, making it difficult to use it for external clothing applications.

Furthermore, if the fabric is made thicker to prevent this, the texture will become stiffer and the effect of using ultrafine fibers will be diminished.

The present invention is intended to solve these problems, and aims to provide a fabric that is a double-sided raised fabric with a high napping effect, has tear strength that can withstand practical use, and retains the original texture of ultrafine fibers. This is the purpose.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention has three layers: a front and back layer mainly made of weft yarns of ultrafine fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less, and an intermediate layer mainly consisting of warp yarns having a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more. A thin fabric with a basis weight of 160 g/m2 or less, which is composed of an integrated structure, and both sides of the fabric are cut and brushed.
The fabric has a pile of uniform length of 00 μm, and furthermore, the fabric has
It is a double-sided suede-like fabric characterized by high density with a hippofactor of 2,500 to 3,000.

The ultrafine fibers used in the present invention are those having a single filament fineness of 0.5 denier or less and are synthetic polymers having fiber-forming ability, such as polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or copolymers thereof, and nylon 6. , polyamides such as nylon 66, polyolefins, polyurethanes, polyacrylonitrile, vinyl polymers, etc.; Preferably, polyamides are used.

Furthermore, in order to obtain the above-mentioned ultrafine fibers, in addition to direct spinning, composite fibers having a cross-sectional shape made by joining multiple components may be used, and one of the components may be dissolved and removed, or the fibers may be divided into each component. There is a method of generating ultrafine fibers by using conjugate fibers, but for the purpose of ease of weaving and high density, the most preferred method of the present invention is to divide the conjugate fibers into each component. An example of such a composite fiber is one in which one component does not completely surround the other component in the cross section of a single filament, joined in the longitudinal direction of the filament, specifically, side-by-side or repeating this, radial component and this In the present invention, it is preferable that the polyamide component is used as a radial component and polyethylene terephthalate is used as the component that complements the polyamide component.

On the other hand, as the fiber used for the warp, various fibers can be used as mentioned above, as long as the single yarn fineness is denier or more, but polyester fibers are particularly useful because they maintain appropriate tension and tear strength. This is preferable because it can be done.

The woven fabric of the present invention uses the above-mentioned ultrafine fibers as weft yarns, and has a single yarn fineness of 1
Fibers of denier or higher are used for the warp. The present invention will be explained below using the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a line cross section of this fabric, and the surface layer (1) and back layer (2) have wefts (3) that are ultrafine fibers.
The intermediate layer (4) mainly includes warp yarns (5), which are woven into an integrated single fabric. Specifically, such organizations include Aya Mie and Manto 3.
Heavy, satin triple woven fabrics, etc. are common as the basic structure, and satin woven fabrics are particularly preferred, with 3 to 5 reeds, preferably 4 reeds.
It is preferable to use a sheet reed.

In addition, the surface layer (1) and the back layer (2) are cut and raised to form raised layers (6A) and (6B), respectively, and the core layer has a density of 200 to 40%.
It is composed of piles (7) with a uniform length of 0 μm.

Here, each layer and pile (7) can be identified by observing the linear cross section of the fabric at a magnification of several tens of times (see Figure 5), and the length of the pile (7) can be clearly determined. This refers to the thickness of a layer in which the weft yarns are spread out and oriented in random directions. Also, when the pile (7) has a uniform length, it means that the pile (7) is found in a layered manner as described above, and with the exception of some piles (7) sticking out, almost no part of the pile (7) is in the pile layer. This means that there is a pile (7). Such a pile structure cannot be obtained by a conventional clothing raising machine.

However, when using the Kin 1 cloth raising machine, the length of the pile becomes uneven and it is difficult to confirm a clear pile layer.
The length of the pile is also longer than that of the present invention. In the case of the present invention, with such a pile structure, the weft (3) is severely cut, and the strength of the fabric is significantly reduced. In addition, this textile is
In order to maintain a soft texture, it is necessary to make the product thin with a basis weight of 200 g/m2 or less, and the thickness should be 0.4 m.
It is preferable to set it to m or less.

On the other hand, this fabric has a high density despite its low basis weight, and has a cover factor (CF), i.e., the number of multifilaments per inch - the number of multifilaments per inch x the number of multifilamen l OD Km degree ( The value of both the weft direction and the direction of the needle is 2500 to 3000, preferably 28
00-2900. It is preferable that the densification is carried out at least in the weft direction, whereby the weft yarns of the front and back layers are further lifted and the above-mentioned raising is facilitated.

Almost all of the front surface of this fabric is covered with cut fuzz (see Figure 4), and the fuzz density is 450,000 fuzz/fuzz.
Cm2, which is an order of magnitude higher than that of simply raised plain woven fabric.

In addition, if the surface of this fabric is water-repellent, the
As described in Publication No. 80, etc., remarkable I8 water action is observed. For example, if a fluorine water repellent is applied to this fabric, J
FS L-1097 water pressure resistance 500-700mmH2
Indicates O. On the other hand, due to the action of ultra-fine fibers, there are dense voids inside the fabric, so the air permeability is 3.0 to 7.00.
070m2/sec (JIS L 1096A)
exist.

Next, an example of a method for manufacturing the present woven fabric will be described.

As mentioned above, the above-mentioned three-layer fabric, for example, a 3:1 double-sided twill fabric, is made by using a splittable composite fiber made of polyamide and polyester bonded for the weft and a polyester fiber with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more for the warp. Weft density 200-280/
Weaving is carried out at a warp density of +00 to 120 yarns/inch. Next, the woven fabric is immersed in a polyamide swelling agent, such as a Hensyl alcohol solution, and then heat-treated, as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 37383/1983, to split the composite fibers (fibrillation) and separate the polyamide component. 20 to 50%, preferably 30 to 40%, in the weft direction to increase the density.

Furthermore, the present woven fabric is obtained by sanding both sides of the high-density woven fabric using a belt sander or the like. Raising treatment by sanding is a suitable method for obtaining the present woven fabric, and as mentioned above, it is difficult to obtain the present woven fabric using the needle cloth raising method.

Further, for the same reason, excessive sanding treatment may lead to a decrease in tear strength, so it is preferable to be careful.

It goes without saying that the woven fabric of the present invention may be subjected to post-processing, and in addition to the above-mentioned water-repellent finishing, there are many other finishing treatments such as dyeing, softness, flame retardancy, and antibacterial deodorization.

(Example) Example 1 26 30d/12f false twisted polyester yarns were used as the warp.
00T/M additional twist, radial nylon component in the weft (
N) and a polyester component (P) that complements this as a second
Split type composite yarn 50d/25f joined as shown in the figure is S
Using 300 T/Mill sash, warp density 116
A 1/3 double-sided twill fabric whose weave diagram is shown in FIG. 3 was woven at a yarn density of 277 yarns/inch and a weft density of 277 yarns/inch.

Next, the fabric was immersed in a 25% benzyl alcohol solution at room temperature, and then heat-treated at 90°C to cause fibrillation of the composite fibers and shrinkage of the fabric, resulting in a warp density of 1.
A high-density fabric with a weft density of 66 yarns/inch, a weft density of 280 yarns/inch, a cover factor of 2,900°, and a fabric weight of 120 g/m" was made. Both sides of this high-density fabric were sanded with a belt-type sander (manufactured by Meinan Co., Ltd., No. 320). Traveling speed 8m/m
The fabric was passed through the cloth and cut and raised to obtain a double-sided raised fabric.

The results are shown in Table 1. Further, electron micrographs (magnification: 30 times) of a latitudinal inclined cross section (angle of inclination: 40°) and a line cross section (magnification: 30 times) of the fabric are shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, respectively.

Comparative Example 1 The double-sided twill fabric of Example 1 was immersed in a 25% Hensyl alcohol solution at room temperature to only fibrillate the composite fibers, resulting in a warp density of 140 threads/inch.

Weft density 280/inch, cover factor 2745
A woven fabric using ultrafine fibers was prepared, and both sides were raised in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 2 75 d/30 f polyester yarn for warp 5200T
/M additional twist, using the composite fiber used in Example 1 as the warp with 5IIOT/M additional twist, warp density 115
A 1/2 twill fabric was woven with a weft density of 77 threads/inch and a weft density of 80 threads/inch, and the composite fibers were fibrillated and shrunk in the same manner as in Example 1. A high-density woven fabric with a cover factor of 2365° and a basis weight of 120 g/m 2 was obtained. Both sides of this fabric were raised in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 3 100d/24f polyester yarn is used as warp yarn with 2300T/
The split type composite fiber 100d150f used in Example 1 was twisted to Z200T/M for the weft yarn to make a double yarn, and then the weft was twisted to 5200T/M, and the warp density was 125 / inch, weft density 120 wood/inch 1
/4 double-sided twill fabric was woven. Next, after cutting and raising the front and back sides a total of 20 times using a needle cloth raising machine, the composite fibers were fibrillated and shrunk in the same manner as in Example 1, resulting in a warp density of 184 wood/inch, a weft density of 134 wood/inch, and a cover. A high density fabric with a factor of 3735 and a basis weight of 235 g/m2 was obtained. Results (Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a raised fabric that has a soft, light and voluminous texture due to ultrafine fibers and a suede-like raised effect on both the front and back sides, and such a fabric can meet the standard tear resistance for outer clothing. It has a strong value of 0.8 kg or more, and the entire front and back of the weeping is covered with fine fluff.
It is excellent in terms of texture, IΩ water resistance, etc.

Therefore, the present invention is suitable as a material for outdoor clothing, and since it is a double-sided raised product, it does not require a lining during sewing, making it extremely useful.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram showing a line cross section of this fabric, Figures 2 and 3
FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing an example of a cross section of a split weave composite fiber, which is a weave structure used in the present fabric. Figure 5 is an electron micrograph (magnification: 30x) showing a latitudinal and linear cross section of an example of this fabric. Figure 6 is an electron micrograph (magnification: 3x) showing the surface condition of a conventional plain woven fabric when raised.
0 times), and both indicate the shape of the fibers. -1,4,- 1990 Patent Application No. 245272 / 20 Name of the invention Double-sided suede-like fabric / 3. Relationship with the case of the person making the amendment Patent applicant address 5-17-4 Sumida, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 534 1-5-90 Tomobuchi-cho, Bejima-ku, Osaka-shi Kanebo Co., Ltd. Patent Department Telephone (06) 921-1251 4. Date of amendment order Vol. 5. Number of claims increased by amendment None 6. Specifications subject to amendment ``Claims,'' ``Detailed Description of the Invention,'' and ``Brief Description of the Drawings.'' 7. Contents of the amendment (1) The statement of the claims stated in item 1 of the specification will be amended as shown in the attached sheet. (2) "Plain woven fabric" on page 2, line 4 of the same book is corrected to "1/2 twill woven fabric." (3) In the same book, page 10, lines 10-11, "When such a tissue is cut and raised" is corrected to "When such a tissue is raised with its normal density." (4) "Hippo Factor" in the same book, page 3, lines 17-18
is corrected as a "cover factor". (5) "1 denier" on page 5, line 6 of the same book is corrected to "1 denier." (6) Correct r200 g/m2J in the second line of page 7 of the same book to read "2 twill fabric." (8) Correct r3:IJ on page 8, line 10 of the same book to [1/3J. (9) Correct ``herd sighter'' on line 20 of page 8 of the same book to ``belt sander''. (10) Correct "rS 300T/M additional twist" on page 9, line 17 of the same book to "rs250T/M additional twist." (11) “320” on page 10, line 8 of the same book was changed to “180”.
"No." (12) Same book, page 11, line 2 (7) r75d/30fJ
is corrected to r75d/36fJ. (13) Table 1 listed on page 13 of the circular is amended as follows. (14) In the same book, page 14, line 6, ``shitachi'' is amended to read ``1 and kamo.'' (15) In the same book, page 14, lines 7-8, "It is excellent in terms of texture, water repellency, etc." was changed to "It is excellent in texture, water repellency, heat retention, etc., and is even better than the conventional ultra-fine "Compared to pile fabrics using fibers, there is clearly less pile shedding." (16) "10% woven type" in line 14 of the same page of the same book is amended to 100% fiber type. Fabric weight: 160 g/m, consisting of three layers: a front and back layer mainly made of ultrafine fiber wefts with a yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less, and an intermediate layer mainly made of warp yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more. The following thin fabric, wherein both sides of the fabric are cut and brushed and have a thickness of 200 to 400.
1. A double-sided suede-like fabric, characterized in that it has piles with a uniform length of μm, and is further densified to a Kabani factor of 2,500 to 3,000.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) Fabric weight composed of three layers: a front and back layer mainly made of ultrafine fiber wefts with a single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier or less, and an intermediate layer mainly made of warp yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1 denier or more. Thin fabric weighing 160g/m^2 or less, both sides of the fabric are cut and brushed and have a weight of 200 to 40
The fabric has a pile of uniform length of 0 μm;
A double-sided suede-like fabric characterized by being highly densified to a hippofactor of 2,500 to 3,000.